In this raw and riveting episode of In Search of Excellence, legendary surfer and ocean pioneer Laird Hamilton shares his incredible story — from his unconventional birth using a method like a reverse hair dryer, a wild childhood in Hawaii, and surviving abuse and racism, to revolutionizing surfing with inventions like tow-in surfing, foilboarding, and modern paddleboarding.
Laird opens up about his near-death experience on Waterworld, why he never competed professionally, how he rescued another surfer by swimming naked, and what makes paddleboarding and foiling $4 billion industry rooted in innovation, art, self-expression, and raw danger. He reflects on growing up with an abusive father, bullying, fear, extreme danger, the challenges of big-wave surfing, near-death experiences, education, family, mentorship, the relentless pursuit of greatness, and his view on being considered the greatest surfer of all time.
From modeling for renowned fashion photographer Bruce Weber and being on the cover of Italian Vogue, to surfing 50-foot monsters at Jaws and Nazaré, this episode delves into what it means to master chaos, seek purpose over praise, and remain humble while pushing human limits.
0:00 – Laird Hamilton's Revolutionary Contributions to Surfing
19:00 – Laird Hamilton's Unique Birth and Early Life
19:13 – Challenges and Lessons from Laird Hamilton's Childhood
19:31 – Laird Hamilton's Early Surfing Career and Modeling
21:48 – Laird Hamilton's Views on Education and Career
25:19 – The Evolution of Surfing and Laird Hamilton's Contributions
29:45 – The Popularity and Challenges of Surfing
38:10 – The Impact of Big Wave Surfing and Nazare
48:26 – The Science and Experience of Big Wave Surfing
50:36 – Laird Hamilton's Philosophy and Approach to Life
In Search of Excellence Podcast - with Randall Kaplan
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🍎 Apple Podcasts: https://podcasts.apple.com/us/podcast/in-search-of-excellence/id1579184310
🟢 Spotify: https://open.spotify.com/show/23q0XICUDIchVrkXBR0i6L
For more information about this episode, visit https://www.randallkaplan.com/
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