A Legacy Rooted in Wine and Family
The episode kicks off with lighthearted banter and a warm welcome to the first Inside the Bunghole episode of 2025, featuring Michael Keenan of Keenan Wines in Napa Valley. Michael shares the multigenerational story of his family's vineyard, which began when his father, Robert Keenan, was inspired by his father-in-law's wine collection and purchased the Spring Mountain property in 1974. At the time, Napa was far from the food and wine mecca it is today, but Robert had a vision of producing first-growth quality Cabernet Sauvignon. Spring Mountain’s ideal east-facing slopes and abundant water supply made it the perfect location. Michael reminisces about the winery’s origin, including its ghost winery roots (the property housed a winery from 1890–1930) and the early Bordeaux varietals they were the first to plant on that specific land.
From Wandering Seeker to Reluctant Winemaker
Michael’s personal journey into winemaking wasn’t direct. After high school, he traveled the world, became a vegetarian, and meditated in India before returning home in 1977. Initially working the harvest temporarily, he pursued a career in carpentry and general contracting for over 20 years. A family dispute later separated him from the winery, but after the death of his stepmother and reconciling with his father, Michael took over operations in 1998 with one condition: total control. Over time, he reestablished the winery’s reputation, embraced a restrained, old-world style of winemaking, and distanced himself from overly ripe Napa wines, aligning more with French techniques that emphasized balance, savoriness, and complexity.
Craft, Chemistry & the Keenan Identity
The conversation shifts into the mechanics of winemaking—Michael explains his preference for mostly neutral barrels and minimal oak influence, likening barrel use to salt in cooking: essential but never overpowering. He also criticizes the use of additives like MegaPurple, which mask a wine’s true characteristics and require toxic stabilizers. As the discussion continues, Michael shares stories about label design rooted in family history, his deepening pride in the winery over time, and the upcoming 50th vintage celebration. Notably, the Tribute wine—a 50/50 blend of Bordeaux clones—symbolizes both a viticultural and emotional milestone, coinciding with his father's passing and marking a profound evolution in both the vineyard and Michael’s stewardship.
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