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August 16, 2025 21 mins
Karen demystifies the popular skincare treatment known as microneedling. She explores how this minimally invasive procedure stimulates collagen and elastin production to improve skin texture, reduce wrinkles, and help with scars and stretch marks. She compares professional treatments with at-home devices, explains the pros and cons of each, and provides detailed guidance on safe at-home use.

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Episode Transcript

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Speaker 1 (00:00):
The content of this podcast is provided for general informational
purposes only and is not intended as nor should it
be considered a substitute for professional medical advice. Hello, this

(00:21):
is Karen Nickel, family nurse practitioner, and you are listening
to Itchy and Bitchia podcast that provides answers to your
many unanswered health questions. Micro Needling, also known as collagen
induction therapy, is a minimally invasive dermatological procedure that involves
using fine needles to create controlled micro injuries in the skin.

(00:46):
These micro injuries trigger the body's natural wound healing processes,
leading to increased production of collagen and elastin, which are
crucial for maintaining healthy, youth full skin. The procedure is
widely utilized to address various skin concerns, including acne, scars, wrinkles,

(01:09):
hyperpigmentation and which is, dark spots, and stretch marks. Micro
Needling can also be used on the scalp to improve
hair growth, but for the purpose of this episode, I
will focus on the use of micro needling on the skin.
One of the key advantages of micro needling is its

(01:31):
ability to stimulate skin rejuvenation without damaging the surrounding healthy tissue,
so there is a quicker recovery time compared to other
skin treatment techniques. A twenty eighteen study of participants aged
thirty five to seventy five years old demonstrated that four
microneedling treatments of facial skin, four treatments spaced four weeks apart,

(01:56):
significantly improved lines, wrinkle, skin laxity, and skin texture ninety
and one hundred and fifty days after the first treatment.
The treatment was well tolerated, with minimal pain, discomfort, and downtime.
Side effects were minor and easily managed, all very good news.

(02:21):
Micro Needling is very versatile, so it can be performed
on almost any part of the body, but it is
most commonly used on the face, neck, and decatage. It
has been proven to be very effective and safe in
treating skin problems, so it has really really grown in popularity.

(02:42):
The practice of something similar to micro needling can be
traced back to ancient times, during which sharp instruments were
used to treat scars and enhance skin, but the modern
version of micro needling began in the nineteen nineties when
a plastic surgeon named doctor Andre Cameron noticed that scars

(03:04):
improved after patients underwent tattooing without pigment. This observation led
to the development of techniques that utilized needles to stimulate
collagen production. In nineteen ninety seven, the field was further
advanced by doctor des Fernandez, a South African plastic surgeon,

(03:24):
when he created the dermal roller, a little rolling cylinder
that had fine needles embedded in it. This became the
forerunner of our current micro needling devices. Because the advent
of dermal roller provided more consistent results, it helped speed
the adoption of micro needling by the cosmetic dermatology world.

(03:47):
Micro Needling technology has really advanced over the past twenty years,
including the development of automated devices, radio frequency micro needling,
and combination therapies, all of which have made the technique
even more effective and safe. Now we have all kinds
of at home treatment devices, so you don't even have

(04:10):
to go to the dermatologist. I don't know about you,
but I feel like I see about one hundred ADS
a day. I know that's probably an exaggeration, but it
feels like about one hundred ADS a day. For those
micro infusion systems that have micro needles combined with the serum.
So how do micro needling devices work. Well, I don't

(04:33):
want to bore you with an anatomy lesson, but since
I had to take an anatomy class, I'm going to
make useff for that as well. The skin has three layers,
the epidermis, which is a protective layer or barrier, the dermis,
which contains collagen and elastin, which gives our skin structure

(04:54):
and stretchiness. And the bottom layer is the subcutaneous tissue.
See that was so painful, was it? Micro Needling primarily
targets the dermis by creating teeny weeny wounds that stimulate
the body's natural healing processes without causing significant damage to

(05:15):
the epidermis. So we're trying to irritate the dermis without
irritating and damaging the epidermis, the top layer of the skin.
This targeted injury to the dermis promotes collagen synthesis and
skin remodeling, making micro needling an effective treatment for skin

(05:36):
conditions like scars, wrinkles, and overall skin rejuvenation. In addition
to boosting collagen and elastin, micro needling promotes the formation
of new blood vessels which improves the blood supply to
the treated area, and when we do that, we improve
nutrient delivery to the skin, which gives us healthier and

(05:59):
more vibrant skin. It also promotes the healing of scars
and other skin lesions. Another big plus of microneedling is
its ability to enhance transdermal drug delivery. So, for instance,
if you are using a serum containing hyaluronic acid, vitamins
or growth factors on your face, it works a lot

(06:21):
better if it gets deep into the dermis through the
tiny holes or channels created by micro needling, rather than
placing it on top of your skin to be absorbed
passively into your skin. This enhanced absorption can significantly increase
the benefit you'll see with these topical treatments. There are

(06:44):
three main types of microneedling devices, including manual rollers like
I talked about earlier, automated pin devices, and radio frequency microneedling.
Manual rollers are handheld devices that have a small roller
covered in fine needles. These rollers are designed to create

(07:05):
controlled micro injuries in the skin and are often used
at home, making them a popular choice for individuals looking
to improve their skin texture. However, while these at home
rollers can address mild skin concerns, their limited needle depth
often makes them less effective than professional roller devices. In contrast,

(07:28):
automated pin devices use a motorized mechanism to create thousands
of micro channels in the skin, reaching depths of up
to two point five millimeters. This method allows for more
precise treatment, effectively targeting scar tissue and promoting skin remodeling
more efficiently than manual rollers. Lastly, radiofrequency microneedling combines traditional

(07:56):
micro needling with radiofrequency energy, Utilizing thicker needles to deliver
heat deep into the skin. This technique stimulates collagen production
through thermal injury, improving skin tightening and texture with minimal downtime.
This option is available only in a medical office. Micro

(08:19):
Needling is a skin rejuvenation method that is of course
offered at dermatology offices, and there are some advantages to
having this procedure done in an office setting versus at home.
Professional devices use longer needles that are able to penetrate
deeper into the skin, stimulating collagen production for more significant

(08:40):
improvements in scars, wrinkles, and skin texture. Dermatologists can also
customize treatments based on your needs from acne scars to
fine lines. Sterile techniques used in medical offices reduce the
risk of infection. Also, treatment enhancements can be offered using PRPOR,

(09:01):
which is platelet rich plasma along with the micro needling
to boost benefits. Costs range from around two hundred dollars
to seven hundred dollars per session and multiple sessions are
often needed. At home devices have shorter needles so the
skin is not penetrated as deeply, so collagen stimulation may

(09:23):
not be as effective If at home devices are not
used properly, skin infection, skin irritation, or uneven results can occur.
At home treatments costless and are less invasive than professional
treatments and can improve skin texture, help the absorption of
topical products, and promote a brighter complexion, but it is

(09:47):
not as effective at addressing deeper skin concerns like scarring.
I'll go over the at home devices available after this
quick break welcome back. Let me start by saying that

(10:20):
currently there are no FDA approved at home micro needling devices,
and there are two types of at home devices. One
is called a micro needling pen and the other are
derma rollers. Micro Needling pens are electric devices that use
a cartridge of fine needles to stamp the skin at

(10:43):
a controlled speed and depth. The cartridges contain sterile needles,
and these are usually rechargeable devices. Derma rollers are handheld
devices with a roller head embedded with numerous tiny needles.
The pin devices provide more precise treatment than the rollers
and lessen the risk of tearing the skin since the

(11:06):
needles of the pin enter the skin straight up and down,
compared to a triangular piercing of the skin that the
roller causes. The needle depth on most pin devices range
from zero point five millimeters up to two millimeters. They
also feature one time use needle cartridges, which can reduce

(11:27):
the risk of skin infection. Some pins offer additional features
like microcurrent or led light therapy. Also, because the pin
head on the device is small, you can get around
the nose in smaller areas more easily than the roller device.
A couple of popular brands are Doctor Pin and Aura

(11:50):
ore Electric Micro Needle Dermer rollers are usually less expensive
than micro needling pins, and you use the rollers oh over,
so they need to be sanitized between each use. Needle
depths typically range from point to five millimeters up to
point five millimeters, with point two five millimeters being a

(12:14):
common starting point for at home use. Derma rollers can
be more challenging to use effectively and safely, as they
require a more steady hand to avoid uneven pressure and
potential skin damage. Beauty Bioglow pro Stacked skin Care and
Aura Facial microneedle roller systems are some of the popular

(12:38):
derma roller brands. It's recommended that these devices be used
in conjunction with serums for best results, and serums that
are typically used include hyaluronic acid, peptides, seramides or EGF,
which are epidermal growth factors. Hyaluronic acid is an excellent hydrator,

(13:01):
and it is best to make sure that hyaluronic acid
is definitely one of the ingredients in the serum of
your choice. Peptides help the skin remain intact by keeping
the skin firm. Seramides are the fatty acids which help
keep the skin barrier intact. Needling with seramides will assist

(13:22):
with speedy healing. Epidermal growth factor EGF stimulates growth at
a cellular level to heal and restore damaged skin. Whatever
serum you choose, make sure your formula is fragrance free
to minimize the risk of irritation. As I mentioned earlier,
Another option on the market are the microneedle infusion devices,

(13:45):
in which the needles in serum are together, usually in
a stamp type device. You press the device against your skin,
which pushes the needles into your skin and releases the
serum so it can go into the channels created by
the needle. Because of the way micro needling works, patience
is important as it can take ninety days of treatment

(14:08):
to see a difference. Typically, results from at home micro
needling take about four to six weeks to become noticeable,
as this is the time needed for the skin to
heal and produce new collagen. Full effects may take up
to six to eight weeks, depending on factors such as
skin type, needle length used, and consistency of use. Regular

(14:32):
sessions performed once a week, for instance, can lead to
improved skin texture, reduced fine lines, and enhanced absorption of
topical treatments over time. There are some important steps to
take each time you prepare to do a micro needling. One,
if you are using a derma roller, disinfect your derma roller.

(14:55):
Always start by disinfecting your derma roller letting it so
in seventy percent isoprople alcohol for approximately five to ten
minutes before you begin. If you are using a micro
needling pin, always use a new needle cartridge with every treatment.
It contains sterile needles, but if you've used it already,

(15:17):
it's no longer sterile, so use a new cartridge every time.
Then wash your face, clean your skin with a gentle
pH balanced cleanser, and then cleanse it again. You'll also
want to gently wipe with seventy percent isoprople alcohol directly
on your face before starting using your rolling device or

(15:38):
your pin device. If you're sensitive to pain, consider a
numbing cream after washing your face and before you apply
alcohol to your face. So after use the numbing cream
apply the alcohol. You'll definitely want to apply a numbing
cream if you've advanced your treatment to using longer needles.

(16:01):
After you've completed your micro needling, rinse your face with
clean water only and pad it dry with a clean
pad or towel. Also, after you've finished, apply a soothing
serum or moisturizer to help hydrate and nourish the skin.
Avoid harsh products like acids or retinol for twenty four

(16:21):
to forty eight hours. But you want to apply that
serum right after micro needling, so that serum goes down
into those channels and into that dermas layer. If you're
using a Derma roller, sanitize your Dermer roller after using
first wash the derma roller with dishwasher soap, then soak
it again in the seventy percent isoproble alcohol for ten

(16:43):
minutes and put it back in its case. Don't wait
too long to replace your Derma roller. You should replace
it as recommended by the manufacturer. It usually will only
have so many uses before you have to replace it.
You might need a new one every month if you're
rolling several days a week, for instance, So how often
should you be doing this treatment well. The frequency of

(17:08):
at home micro needling depends on the needle length and
how well your skin tolerates the treatments. For devices with
shorter needles, say point two millimeters up to point five millimeters,
it's generally safe to use the device one to two
times a week. This allows the skin time to heal
between treatments. For longer needles, say point five millimeters and above,

(17:34):
it's recommended to space out sessions to every four to
six weeks to avoid over stimulating the skin, and always
listen to your skin. If you experience irritation, decrease the
frequency or take a break before going back to treating again.
There are possible side effects and risks of at home needling.

(17:57):
For instance, infection precentation of the device or skin can
lead to bacterial or fungal infections. Skin irritation can happen
with overuse or incorrect technique, causing redness and swelling, particularly
if the skin is not properly cleansed before the procedure.
Scarring can happen if there's an incorrect needle length or

(18:20):
pressure is incorrect. Bleeding. Using needles that are too long
or applying too much pressure can result in minor bleeding,
and microneedling can worsen hyperpigmentation or cause post inflammatory hyperpigmentation,
especially people with darker skin tones. If you're using the

(18:40):
device incorrectly, there is a risk of injury. There's a
risk of allergic reactions to the serum. Since they're getting
deeper into your skin, you can end up with uneven
results because of improper technique. Of course, you can have
pain or discomfort which can be alleviated with a topical anesthetic.
You could have laid or longer healing time with over

(19:03):
use of the device or excessive pressure while using the device.
There are people who should talk to their healthcare provider
before starting micro needling, and those people include people who
have acne or taking medication for acne, those with blood disorders,
or who are on anticoagulants those are drugs that prevent

(19:24):
blood clots, people with cancer and are receiving chemotherapy or
radiation therapy. If you're someone with frequent skin rashes or
contact dermatitis, or have frequent cold sores, if you tend
to get keloids where your skin forms raised scars when
it's damaged, if you tend to have a lot of moles, freckles,

(19:48):
or skin tags or other growth that change in size
or shape, or tend to bleed, those need to be
checked out before micro needling. Also, if you tend to
have skin in conditions like ecsima or psoriasis, that needs
to be discussed with your healthcare provider before starting any
micro needling. Micro Needling can help the skin become smoother, firmer,

(20:14):
and more youthful looking. I'm just gonna have to be
looking into this for myself. At home, micro needling also
improves serum effectiveness by enhancing their absorption. At home, micro
needling can be done safely if done correctly, so if
you want to enjoy the benefits of micro needling done

(20:34):
at home, make sure to use sanitary techniques and avoid
use of needles that are too long, since devices with
shorter needles up too point five millimeters are typically safer
for home use. I thank you all for listening. Wherever
you listen to this podcast, please leave a review and
rate the podcast. Your reviews and ratings really do matter. Also,

(20:58):
make sure you follow the show so that it will
be automatically downloaded. That really helps. I encourage you to
visit our Facebook page I and B Podcast, where you
can give us a like and leave comments or questions
for me. Our website is itchyanbitchy dot com, where there
are blogs with some of our subjects available for you
to read. As always, thanks to Forrest Wincel, my son,

(21:20):
our producer and composer, Rothy Music, and the person who
does all the behind the scenes work to make this
podcast possible for you to hear. Thank you. Forest. Forest
is gearing up to begin his second year of his
master's degree in music composition at Peabody Music Conservatory. So
proud of him, I wish him the best for this
upcoming year. Remember that your health is in your hands.
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