February 6, 2024 • 25 mins
Discover Croatia's allures with travel experts Leila Krešić-Jurić and Antonia Urlic,
as we traverse the nation's vibrant history and culture. From ancient cities to contemporary charms, we uncover the reasons behind Croatia's soaring popularity. The 'Pearl of the Adriatic', Dubrovnik, unveils its deep cultural significance and Game of Thrones fame, and a thriving culinary scene.
Zagreb offers festive markets, a cathedral that dominates the skyline, and the quirky the Museum of Broken Relationships. Indulge in Zagreb's traditional Strukli, a gastronomic gem best savored within the grandeur of the Hotel Esplanade.
From the storied walls of Diocletian's Palace in Split to the cascading beauty of Plitvice Lakes National Park.
And for those seeking a connection with nature, we share personal stories including a mesmerizing encounter with a dolphin off the island of Hvar, in the Adriatic.
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Leila Krešić-Jurić (leila.kresic.us@croatia.hr) is U.S. director of Tourism for Croatia; Antonia Urlic (antonia.urlic@stories-hotels.com) is head of Stories Hotels.
Podcast host Lea Lane has traveled to over 100 countries, and has written nine books, including the award-winning Places I Remember (Kirkus Reviews star rating, and 'one of the top 100 Indie books of the year'). She has contributed to many guidebooks and has written thousands of travel articles.
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Our award-winning travel podcast, Places I Remember with Lea Lane, has produced over 100 travel episodes! New podcast episodes drop on the first Tuesday of the month, on Apple, Spotify, and wherever you listen. Check them out.
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Transcript
Episode Transcript
Available transcripts are automatically generated. Complete accuracy is not guaranteed.
Lea Lane (00:01):
Croatia sits across from Italy on the Adriatic Sea.
At the junction of central andsoutheast Europe, it has become
a popular destination known forits nature, culture, history and
gastronomy.
Our guests are the director ofCroatian National Tourism in
North America, and AntonijaErlich, president of Stories
(00:22):
Hotels.
Welcome Leila and Antonija toplaces I remember.
Hi, leila.
Leila Krešić-Jurić (00:28):
It's a very nice meeting here and very
happy to get this opportunity totalk to your audience.
Lea Lane (00:35):
Let's just talk a little bit about the history of
Croatia.
Leila Krešić-Jurić (00:38):
Well, what to say.
Croatia has a long, longhistory.
I always like to say that ifyou wonder how Europe looks like
, just come to Croatia.
All European empires have beenliving their footsteps and what
footprints actually in Croatiaover the last centuries and
millennia.
We have a city which is 8,000years old and if you wonder
(01:01):
about the Roman culture, theGreek culture and the Hungarian
Empire, or even the Ottomansthat ruled some parts of Croatia
for 500 years, it's actuallyvery easy to understand the
culture, the gastronomy and eventhe way of life, just scrolling
through all the parts ofCroatia and understand how
(01:21):
history melts in this tiny, tinypiece of land in the center of
Europe.
Lea Lane (01:26):
I would emphasize that Croatia declared independence
from Yugoslavia on June 25, 1991.
It's now celebrated asstatehood day.
So that takes us up sort oftoward the present.
Let me just ask you.
People know all about thepleasures of the Adriatic
coastline and it's absolutelygorgeous.
Can you tell us about thenumbers of North Americans
traveling to Croatia?
Leila Krešić-Jurić (01:46):
Oh well, very proud to say that we
already broke all the recordsthis year already.
In October, the end of October,we had more American travelers
than in 2019, which has been arecord year now.
So now, until the end of thisyear, we are forecasting 710,000
people, and it's going to bealready more than 2 million
(02:08):
overnight, which is really arecord for us in terms of
American travelers.
Lea Lane (02:12):
Wow, I know everybody's talking about
Croatia.
It's one of the places you hearabout all the time now, so
everybody's discovering it.
If they haven't already, let'stalk about what not to miss.
First, we have to start withDubrovnik.
It's in southern Croatia, it'son the Adriatic or the Dalmatian
coast.
It's nicknamed the Pearl of theAdriatic and I've mentioned
when I first went there and Itook the cable car up and I
(02:35):
looked down.
I can see why.
It looks like it's set on bluevelvet.
It looks like a pearl, with thebeautiful terracotta roofs and
the gorgeous blue sea.
It's something else.
Tell us a little bit aboutDubrovnik.
Leila Krešić-Jurić (02:47):
But Dubrovnik was the independent
republic from many years ago.
Dubrovnik was one of the firstcountries that recognized
independence of the UnitedStates, through the efforts of
Francesco Favre, the consul inParis.
It was in July 7th 1783.
So it is something that theDubrovnik people are very proud
(03:07):
of.
It was the place where the eastand the west met, and Dubrovnik
was a trade center for them thetrade between the Venetians and
between the Ottomans.
Both of them also wanted toconquer, but Dubrovnik was
really the place that resistedall these battles for many, many
years.
Actually, Dubrovnik is muchmore than just beautiful stones
(03:30):
and buildings that you can seetoday.
When you immerse into thehistory and to the culture, you
understand how much important itwas for the development of the
European culture.
Lea Lane (03:41):
Interesting.
Now, Antonija, you don't livein Dubrovnik.
I know you live in Zagreb, butwhen you go there, what do you
not want to miss?
Antonia Urlic (03:48):
As a tourist in Dubrovnik, I'm sure that you can
say that the impression of thebeauty of Dubrovnik is something
that nobody can miss, becauseit's such an amazing city.
Even to us that are fromCroatia, every time we come to
Dubrovnik, we are amazed by thebeauty of it.
Not to be missed are, for sure,the gourmet experience of
(04:11):
Dubrovnik and the niceexpressions that you can make
either to the hinterlands, so tosay, or to the nearby islands
that surrounds Dubrovnik.
It's a great combination ofculture, history, gourmet and
beautiful nature experiences.
Lea Lane (04:27):
One of those islands is Lachram Island.
I know I visited that onethat's not far.
It has peacocks walking aroundand it has a beautiful monastery
dating back to a thousand AD.
I think it's very beautiful.
And there are beaches nearby.
They're pebbly beaches, they'renot perfect, but the islands
are all around there.
You certainly have to go on thewalls.
(04:48):
You have to get on those wallsand look at the old town.
What are some of the places inthe old town that you want to
note?
Leila Krešić-Jurić (04:53):
Just not to forget.
On Lachram Island we have thethrone of the Game of Thrones.
We are very proud of it.
Lea Lane (04:59):
The throne itself.
Leila Krešić-Jurić (05:00):
Yes, the throne itself.
Exactly, it's on Lachram Island, so now it's overwhelmed with
tourists that want to see thethrone, not so much the
botanical gardens, which areawesome, as you said, the
vegetation, everything is verymuch preserved, thanks to one
guy.
You know how usually it'ssomeone who wants it to make it
nice at its time and then todayit's an Indicator heritage as
(05:22):
well.
However, when you go to thecity, beside the old walls and
the old town as such, you haveTradun, which is the main street
, very long street.
You have the fortresses, thebig gate called Pilagate as well
.
There are several gates enteringthe city.
There are two major gatesactually, but you can enter the
city, of course, from the side,crawling through the small, very
(05:46):
, very narrow street, usuallyhundreds and hundreds of stairs
you have to reach.
Actually, you have usuallypeople who live there had a good
condition.
It's like fitness if you haveto go up and down 200 stairs
many times per day.
Then Rector's Palace it's oneof practically the most
important building in Dubrovnik.
Or Minketa Fortress, which isalso the one that you can see in
(06:09):
all the photos.
It's a big one around one verypicturesque building in
Dubrovnik.
All of these buildings I justmentioned a few that are most
photographed, but really thelandmarks that are very well
preserved and restored.
If you want to have a gorgeouswedding, you can even think in
collaboration with the city.
You can practically rent thatspace for you that day.
Lea Lane (06:31):
Good to know.
And again, as I mentioned, ifyou want to go up to the top in
a cable car, sunset is theperfect time to go.
You can go to a lovelyrestaurant I remember at the
peak.
Leila Krešić-Jurić (06:42):
Panorama restaurant, yes.
Lea Lane (06:43):
Panorama restaurant.
It's a wonderful way to end theday.
Now Antonia you were fromZagreb.
Tell us a little bit about thecapital, the largest city of
Croatia in the north.
What is important there to notmiss?
Antonia Urlic (06:55):
I would say that one of the things not to be
missed in Zagreb is one of themost popular Christmas markets
in Europe.
In addition to this, throughoutthe whole year, I'd say that
Zagreb is the cultural andgourmet capital of Croatia, so
it's very good and easy tocombine it together with the
coast, to come in Zagreb, stayfor a couple of nights and
(07:17):
discover what Zagreb has tooffer as the major city in
Croatia and, on the other hand,it is very easily connected with
the coast, so you can easilylink it.
Lea Lane (07:29):
I know the upper town is the older part and the lower
town is the more modern part, soyou have lots of cafes and so
forth below, and then on top youhave, of course, the Zagreb
Cathedral, which is the tallestbuilding in Croatia, back to the
11th century.
I do believe you have manyinteresting museums.
There's one I have to ask youabout.
(07:49):
I didn't go there, but I'veheard of it.
It's the Museum of BrokenRelationships.
What is that?
Leila Krešić-Jurić (07:54):
Yeah, that's something fantastic.
It's actually a museum thatstarted because a couple who
broke up and they said, 'okay,we are still in good terms, we
have all these things that wewere given to as a couple.
What do we do with them?
' And then they decided to opena museum with their old stuff
let's call it this way, and alsothe friends starting bringing
(08:15):
them their presents that theyhave like, have it like, you
know, like memory from arelationship.
Either someone divorced andthen had some memory.
So each of these objects therehas its own story and this story
is written.
Of course, it's not a longstory.
It's usually in like onesentence and two sentences, but
when you s to the museum, nomatter, it should be like, let's
(08:36):
say, a sad museum.
Actually it's super fun andsuper exciting and you have
really good time.
They open a few franchises likethis.
Actually, this museum it's alsobeing like hosted at other
museums throughout the world andbesides the museum of broken
relationship, there is onereally, really super cool museum
that there are a few franchisesopen in the United States.
(08:56):
It's a Museum of Illusions.
It's also in Zagreb.
Lea Lane (09:00):
Where in Europe?
Leila Krešić-Jurić (09:01):
It's made illusions.
Yeah, museum of illusions.
Yeah, there is one in New Yorkas well, I think it's like 9th a
14th D, something like that,but in that area definitely, and
there are others also in Vegasrecently open.
So there are a few crossWashington.
I remember in Losier, Chicago.
So, yes, there are two crazyfranchises from Croatia that are
(09:22):
now conquering the world, andit's really super fun,
interesting.
Lea Lane (09:26):
You think about art and you think about medieval
facts and things like that, butto think of these wonderful sort
of whimsical places, that's funto know about.
Now you mentioned the gourmetfood.
In Zagreb there's a marketplaceI know that has wonderful foods
that you can stroll around.
What are some of the classicfoods that you would eat when
you go there?
What should you not miss?
Leila Krešić-Jurić (09:46):
Well, when in Zagreb and in general this
northern central area, there issomething that is very popular
it's actually pastry with cheese, very specific cheese made in
these small villages.
It's something that you cantaste it in the restaurant of
the Hotel Esplanada, which is afamous hotel in the city center
of Zagreb that was establishedat the occasion of the Orient
(10:11):
Express train that was runningat that time, 100 years ago.
It's going to be like 100 years.
This hotel was open and, forexample, the Struckli, the most
famous you will try in EsplanadaHotel.
Of course, anywhere else youcan ask for them, but it's
something super, super cool toask and taste.
Lea Lane (10:28):
I think I've heard of it as 'dirty macaroni.
That's a way of saying it.
I've heard it, but it's kno ittastes delicious, but that's
what I've heard it's called.
Of course, the grilled fish andthe seafood of the area.
Also, I remember delicious andyour rakia.
What is rakia the deliciousdrink?
Leila Krešić-Jurić (10:45):
thing, rakia is something super strong.
It's a very strong alcohol andthere are different kinds of
rakia.
You can make them with somesort of fruits, so they're like
more fruity, but in general,bottom line it's 50% alcohol.
So it's really strong.
Lea Lane (11:03):
You don't want to walk on the wall when you drink the
rakia.
Leila Krešić-Jurić (11:07):
You toast with them.
But it's funny, in the smallervillages people take this.
Older people take this in themorning.
Okay, just for the morning, tomake the day a good day of
course.
Lea Lane (11:19):
Okay, from rakia, let's move on to another
wonderful city, Split.
It's the second largest city inCroatia.
It's on the coast.
What should we not miss?
Of course, there's one thing wehave to mention, and everyone
tries to visit it.
It's Diocletian's Palace.
Tell us about that.
Leila Krešić-Jurić (11:36):
Well, I'm very proud to be from Split.
Actually, Antonia is alsocoming from Split with a birth,
born there.
Split is in terms of creation.
I will tell you now a littlestory.
It's recognized as Split in thearea oh, you are just good
looking, smart and lazy.
Then of course, everybody wantsto be good looking, everybody
(11:56):
wants to be smart, but nobodywants to be lazy.
But then when you know thehistory, that our founder, the
emperor, Di Euclation, actuallywho he was, it was the most
powerful, not so much known, butthe most powerful Roman emperor
ever.
So at his height, Roman Empirewas the largest ever, so large
(12:17):
that he said okay, guys, I'mgoing to retire, I'm going to
build a palace for myself at mymother's birthplace, which is
Salona.
It's just nearby Split, it'sliterally the village next to
split.
He said I divided the Romanemperor into four.
He actually put four of hispeople to rule the Roman emperor
and he retired.
(12:38):
So actually it was also theinvention of retirement.
The concept of retirement camethrough t clation.
I remember at that time nobodywas retired.
You either get killed, or yousuffer from hunger and you die,
or you just, you know, simple,die, but nobody.
I mean people were working allthe time.
So he retired.
He asked the architects toconstruct him a palace at the
(12:58):
best place.
So he let the sheep eat thegrass.
Where the sheep didn't want toeat the grass, his council said
that this is not a good place.
So actually they found the bestplot for him to build the
palace and it was nearby alsothe sulphate waters.
Because he needed sulphatewaters as a cure for his spine,
because of course he was afterso many battles.
(13:20):
He needed a help, actually ahealth tourism at that time.
So today we call it city ofSplit.
It was actually founded, thebeautiful palace near the
healthy, the healing waters andwith the luxurious rooms that
were pertaining to the emperor,while the other half of the
palace was inhabited by thesoldiers and people who were
(13:41):
actually coming as traders, etc.
Today you still have peopleliving in the palace and we
estimate that it is probably theonly place, only palace in the
world.
that people literally liveinside.
Of course you don't see it assuch unless you have a birds
view, birds view or you can seeit, of course, from the markets
that it's a palace.
But you can recognize the doors, the gates, you can recognize
(14:03):
the buildings, you can recognizemany, many fragments that, of
course, today were alsomodernized and, what is
important, we have a beautifulhotel inside the palace.
And you have a summer festivalinside the palace, with the
Sphinx, with the Cathedral whichis the oldest Catholic
cathedral in the world as well,that it's passing through
Dalmatia, not visiting Split,it's like not being in Croatia.
Lea Lane (14:25):
Exactly, and the beaches are pretty good too
around there.
I have to say that nearby isPlitvice.
Am I saying that correctly, oris it Plitvice?
Leila Krešić-Jurić (14:35):
Plitvice.
Yes, yes, yes.
Lea Lane (14:37):
Plitvice.
Whatever I'm saying, it'sgorgeous.
It's the largest and oldestnational park in Croatia.
It's a World Heritage Site.
It's known throughout the worldfor its 16 lakes and
magnificent waterfalls, upperand lower.
Describe it for us, Antonija.
Antonia Urlic (14:52):
I would like to share my personal experience
with Plitvice Lakes.
So every time, whatever season,I come to Plitvice Lakes, I
always say, oh my God, I have tocome here in each and every
season, because whenever I go toPlitvice they are completely
different in winter time, springtime, summer time or in autumn.
It is just fabulous with such adramatic nature and it makes us
(15:16):
so proud that we have it andthat we preserve it.
Nowadays, I can share with youa little bit more about Plitvice
Lakes, one of the mostattractive natural sites in
Croatia.
Leila Krešić-Jurić (15:26):
It was proclaimed as the first national
park in April 1949.
It was really a long time agoand 30 years after, in 1979, it
became inscribed into the UNESCOWorld Heritage List.
So they are really, togetherwith Dubrovnik, the other first
ones, I think, the DioclationPalace, all the three of them
that were inscribed into UNESCOHeritage List in the same year.
(15:48):
It's covered with forestvegetation.
There are 16 lakes smaller andthey are all cascading into one
each other.
We call them the whole lakesystem.
We call it like upper lakes andlower lakes, where we are names
, of course, very, very, veryhomemade, let's say.
Each time of the year you havesomething different that you can
try and you, however, swimmingis not allowed anymore.
(16:09):
When I was the kid yes, it wasmany years after.
Lea Lane (16:12):
I would say, go each season in your lifetime.
Antonia Urlic (16:16):
Each season.
Lea Lane (16:16):
Yes, it's all that one very easily right.
I have to also mention anotherbeautiful park, Kirka.
also has beautiful waterfalls.
There are so many of thesegorgeous areas beyond the coast.
Many people don't go far fromthe coast, but you have all
these inland beautiful areas,and I want to mention the little
village, Slunj.
Am I pronouncing that right?
Slunj?
(16:37):
It's one of the 54 best touristvillages in the world,
according to the World TourismOrganization.
Very charming, with woodenhouses and rushing waterfalls,
and it's in the neighborhood ofRastoki .
Leila Krešić-Jurić (16:51):
Yes, it's also very popular for the local
people, especially from Zagreb,which is like one hour from,
even less with the highway fromZagreb, and it is like a mixture
of a little cascades, littlelakes, a lot of water, the
rivers and the small houses,wooden houses, and it's all like
some fairy tale.
(17:12):
That's how it looks like in thereal world.
Lea Lane (17:14):
Kind of a hidden secret, but it isn't so hidden
anymore, but it's one of thosespecial places that many people
overlook, so try to keep that inmind when you go to Croatia to
visit some of the smaller townsthat are like fairy tale towns.
Let me just ask about lodging.
I know, antonio, that that isyour specialty.
You represent a group calledStories, which is a collection
(17:35):
of boutique hotels which acquaguests with the legacy of the
heritage, and they're set incoves and in thousand year old
buildings, like we've mentioned,in the castles.
Just give us an idea, if youcan, where you can stay.
I mean, we can stay in a B&B ora hostel.
There are so many places,five-star hotels, great lodgings
, but this is very special.
(17:56):
So give us an idea of what yourepresent.
Antonia Urlic (17:58):
Yeah, the hotels within our collection are
handpicked, small boutiquehotels that each offers a unique
experience related either tocultural history, go or nature.
What is very special about themis that they have a very strong
character and they provide astrong sense of the place.
So, for instance, we mentionedalready in Split, our member is
(18:22):
a Vestibule Palace hotel, whichis a small gem hidden in the
heart of Emperor DiocletianPalace.
Its guests can literally say Islept where Emperor Diocletian
used to sleep, because it islocated within a previous
private corners of EmperorDiocletian and it is a hotel
that was created from threepalaces, emerging by three
(18:43):
palaces from three differenteras Roman: gothic Gothic and
Renaissance into one hotel withonly seven suites.
And the hotel has even theoriginal walls from Roman era,
from third century that you canfeel and sense and touch in the
hotel, in some of the suitesalso.
But on the other hand, we alsohave hotels in all the noble
(19:04):
summer houses.
For instance, Kazbek Boutiquehotel in Dubrovnik is exactly
that.
It is a noble house that wasconverted to a small hotel with
13 rooms, telling the storyagain about the noble men in
Dubrovnik that prefer to stayout of the city walls.
So they built for themselves,these i erinian erranean summer
houses that are now allculturally protected, and Kazbek
(19:26):
is, for instance, in is one ofthose.
And then we have somethingcompletely different.
For instance, in Istria, whichis the most famous gourmet
region of Croatia in thenorthern part of the Adriatic,
we have wine oasis or olive oiloasis, small gourmet family run
hotels or large wine oasis, and,in addition to this, also chic
(19:48):
modern hotels like Adriana Hvaron the island of Hvar, that
perfectly incorporated allflavors and scents of Hvar
island into service they offer.
So you have for breakfast,which is known as one of the
best breakfasts in Croatia, youcan choose from eight types of
honey that are done with localherbs from Hvar Island, or you
(20:10):
have spa treatments with theoils and scents of Hvar Island.
Sounds fabulous.
I'd like to go to each one ofthose as well.
I think that's all I need to dois keep going to Croatia, to
the islands and to the wonderfulplaces to eat and all of the
sounds terrific.
Well, the name of the podcastis places I remember.
Would each Places you Remembera personal memory of your
(20:34):
beautiful country?
How about starting with Leila?
Leila Krešić-Jurić (20:37):
Great.
Actually, it's a very toughquestion because when you asked
me the first moment, it was okay.
So many times, people whom Iknow, after they are back from
Croatia, they said you know, wehad to testify that the photo of
the beaches and of the clearblue water, that it's really not
photoshopped.
Now, I'm sure it's notphotoshopped because I've been
(20:57):
there and it's something thathappened to me literally every
year with someone who istraveling and then not sure what
they'll be found there.
However, the most picturesqueexperience, I would say happened
many years ago when themembers, 30 people, members of
the Gastronomy Academy ofMarbella in Spain they came 30
of them to the islands, so fromSplit to Dubronik, they were
(21:20):
actually sailing the island, butalso they stayed like they had
two weeks.
They were doing this kind oftrip.
So I remember they were comingto Croatia with so it was in
2021, years ago.
They came with wines.
They brought wines with them.
They brought prosciutto theybrought.
Everything was, of course,vacuumed because they were
afraid what they are going tofind in Croatia.
(21:42):
They literally didn't open anySpanish wine, they didn't touch
the meat, and whateverprosciutto and cheese they
actually brought with them, theyliterally gave it to the cook,
just to have it for later times.
First they went to see thethat's why I remember so vividly
the Nabuka opera.
So they were eating local,organic, local food, local
(22:05):
vegetables, local fruits.
Everything was so made localactually made how they visited
the Dalmatian coasts and theislands.
They wanted to buy the wines andI remember there's a major
thing for me was the owner ofthe little winery in Braciland
didn't want to sell them more.
He said you are the friends ofmy friends.
(22:25):
I gave you the best wine whichI keep for my family.
I gave you to you to taste it,one glass for each.
You are 30.
I'm not going to give you morebecause I don't have such a
quantity and the best.
I want to keep it for my family.
It was so good that they wereready to buy the whole quantity.
It was a time when Croatiareally started to build its way
on the gourmet scene in Europe.
(22:46):
Now we can see that and wewitness that we built it on a
much global scale, not onlyEurope, but I would say in the
global, in the world.
And this little story itremembers me that only 20 years
ago people were so surprised tofind some good food and good
wine here and today.
That is the reason why peoplecome to Croatia, especially from
(23:07):
the US.
Lea Lane (23:08):
Excellent, thank you, Antonija.
what about you?
Antonia Urlic (23:12):
When I was a kid, I used to spend my summers on
the sailing boats sailing allaround Adriatic coast, and one
of the most memorableexperiences that I remember is
once when we were sailing fromthe island of Hvar to the island
of Kortula.
We were sailing through thislarge channel that is between
these two islands and all of asudden, a dolphin came by by the
(23:36):
side of our boat and for theshort period of time we were
sailing together, so all youcould hear was the engines were
off, of course, of the boat, andall the sounds that you can
hear is the boat sliding on thesurface of the sea and the
dolphin swimming by the side.
And it was such an amazingemotion.
(23:56):
We feel like we were connected,amazing.
You felt so small in this large, beautiful nature, connected
with this amazing animal, thisamazing creature.
Lea Lane (24:07):
So often, the simplest of memories are the ones we
remember our entire lives.
That's beautiful.
Croatia is indeed a specialcountry.
Thank you, Leila Kresik Jurek,director of the Croatian
National Tourism Board in NorthAmerica, and Antonija Erlek,
president of Stories Hotel, forsharing your insights and
memories about your beautifulcountry.
(24:28):
Thank you.
Leila Krešić-Jurić (24:29):
Thank you, Lea.
Antonia Urlic (24:30):
Thank you, Lea, for your time.
Croatia sits across from Italy on the Adriatic Sea.
At the junction of central andsoutheast Europe, it has become
a popular destination known forits nature, culture, history and
gastronomy.
Our guests are the director ofCroatian National Tourism in
North America, and AntonijaErlich, president of Stories
(00:22):
Hotels.
Welcome Leila and Antonija toplaces I remember.
Hi, leila.
Leila Krešić-Jurić (00:28):
It's a very nice meeting here and very
happy to get this opportunity totalk to your audience.
Lea Lane (00:35):
Let's just talk a little bit about the history of
Croatia.
Leila Krešić-Jurić (00:38):
Well, what to say.
Croatia has a long, longhistory.
I always like to say that ifyou wonder how Europe looks like
, just come to Croatia.
All European empires have beenliving their footsteps and what
footprints actually in Croatiaover the last centuries and
millennia.
We have a city which is 8,000years old and if you wonder
(01:01):
about the Roman culture, theGreek culture and the Hungarian
Empire, or even the Ottomansthat ruled some parts of Croatia
for 500 years, it's actuallyvery easy to understand the
culture, the gastronomy and eventhe way of life, just scrolling
through all the parts ofCroatia and understand how
(01:21):
history melts in this tiny, tinypiece of land in the center of
Europe.
Lea Lane (01:26):
I would emphasize that Croatia declared independence
from Yugoslavia on June 25, 1991.
It's now celebrated asstatehood day.
So that takes us up sort oftoward the present.
Let me just ask you.
People know all about thepleasures of the Adriatic
coastline and it's absolutelygorgeous.
Can you tell us about thenumbers of North Americans
traveling to Croatia?
Leila Krešić-Jurić (01:46):
Oh well, very proud to say that we
already broke all the recordsthis year already.
In October, the end of October,we had more American travelers
than in 2019, which has been arecord year now.
So now, until the end of thisyear, we are forecasting 710,000
people, and it's going to bealready more than 2 million
(02:08):
overnight, which is really arecord for us in terms of
American travelers.
Lea Lane (02:12):
Wow, I know everybody's talking about
Croatia.
It's one of the places you hearabout all the time now, so
everybody's discovering it.
If they haven't already, let'stalk about what not to miss.
First, we have to start withDubrovnik.
It's in southern Croatia, it'son the Adriatic or the Dalmatian
coast.
It's nicknamed the Pearl of theAdriatic and I've mentioned
when I first went there and Itook the cable car up and I
(02:35):
looked down.
I can see why.
It looks like it's set on bluevelvet.
It looks like a pearl, with thebeautiful terracotta roofs and
the gorgeous blue sea.
It's something else.
Tell us a little bit aboutDubrovnik.
Leila Krešić-Jurić (02:47):
But Dubrovnik was the independent
republic from many years ago.
Dubrovnik was one of the firstcountries that recognized
independence of the UnitedStates, through the efforts of
Francesco Favre, the consul inParis.
It was in July 7th 1783.
So it is something that theDubrovnik people are very proud
(03:07):
of.
It was the place where the eastand the west met, and Dubrovnik
was a trade center for them thetrade between the Venetians and
between the Ottomans.
Both of them also wanted toconquer, but Dubrovnik was
really the place that resistedall these battles for many, many
years.
Actually, Dubrovnik is muchmore than just beautiful stones
(03:30):
and buildings that you can seetoday.
When you immerse into thehistory and to the culture, you
understand how much important itwas for the development of the
European culture.
Lea Lane (03:41):
Interesting.
Now, Antonija, you don't livein Dubrovnik.
I know you live in Zagreb, butwhen you go there, what do you
not want to miss?
Antonia Urlic (03:48):
As a tourist in Dubrovnik, I'm sure that you can
say that the impression of thebeauty of Dubrovnik is something
that nobody can miss, becauseit's such an amazing city.
Even to us that are fromCroatia, every time we come to
Dubrovnik, we are amazed by thebeauty of it.
Not to be missed are, for sure,the gourmet experience of
(04:11):
Dubrovnik and the niceexpressions that you can make
either to the hinterlands, so tosay, or to the nearby islands
that surrounds Dubrovnik.
It's a great combination ofculture, history, gourmet and
beautiful nature experiences.
Lea Lane (04:27):
One of those islands is Lachram Island.
I know I visited that onethat's not far.
It has peacocks walking aroundand it has a beautiful monastery
dating back to a thousand AD.
I think it's very beautiful.
And there are beaches nearby.
They're pebbly beaches, they'renot perfect, but the islands
are all around there.
You certainly have to go on thewalls.
(04:48):
You have to get on those wallsand look at the old town.
What are some of the places inthe old town that you want to
note?
Leila Krešić-Jurić (04:53):
Just not to forget.
On Lachram Island we have thethrone of the Game of Thrones.
We are very proud of it.
Lea Lane (04:59):
The throne itself.
Leila Krešić-Jurić (05:00):
Yes, the throne itself.
Exactly, it's on Lachram Island, so now it's overwhelmed with
tourists that want to see thethrone, not so much the
botanical gardens, which areawesome, as you said, the
vegetation, everything is verymuch preserved, thanks to one
guy.
You know how usually it'ssomeone who wants it to make it
nice at its time and then todayit's an Indicator heritage as
(05:22):
well.
However, when you go to thecity, beside the old walls and
the old town as such, you haveTradun, which is the main street
, very long street.
You have the fortresses, thebig gate called Pilagate as well
.
There are several gates enteringthe city.
There are two major gatesactually, but you can enter the
city, of course, from the side,crawling through the small, very
(05:46):
, very narrow street, usuallyhundreds and hundreds of stairs
you have to reach.
Actually, you have usuallypeople who live there had a good
condition.
It's like fitness if you haveto go up and down 200 stairs
many times per day.
Then Rector's Palace it's oneof practically the most
important building in Dubrovnik.
Or Minketa Fortress, which isalso the one that you can see in
(06:09):
all the photos.
It's a big one around one verypicturesque building in
Dubrovnik.
All of these buildings I justmentioned a few that are most
photographed, but really thelandmarks that are very well
preserved and restored.
If you want to have a gorgeouswedding, you can even think in
collaboration with the city.
You can practically rent thatspace for you that day.
Lea Lane (06:31):
Good to know.
And again, as I mentioned, ifyou want to go up to the top in
a cable car, sunset is theperfect time to go.
You can go to a lovelyrestaurant I remember at the
peak.
Leila Krešić-Jurić (06:42):
Panorama restaurant, yes.
Lea Lane (06:43):
Panorama restaurant.
It's a wonderful way to end theday.
Now Antonia you were fromZagreb.
Tell us a little bit about thecapital, the largest city of
Croatia in the north.
What is important there to notmiss?
Antonia Urlic (06:55):
I would say that one of the things not to be
missed in Zagreb is one of themost popular Christmas markets
in Europe.
In addition to this, throughoutthe whole year, I'd say that
Zagreb is the cultural andgourmet capital of Croatia, so
it's very good and easy tocombine it together with the
coast, to come in Zagreb, stayfor a couple of nights and
(07:17):
discover what Zagreb has tooffer as the major city in
Croatia and, on the other hand,it is very easily connected with
the coast, so you can easilylink it.
Lea Lane (07:29):
I know the upper town is the older part and the lower
town is the more modern part, soyou have lots of cafes and so
forth below, and then on top youhave, of course, the Zagreb
Cathedral, which is the tallestbuilding in Croatia, back to the
11th century.
I do believe you have manyinteresting museums.
There's one I have to ask youabout.
(07:49):
I didn't go there, but I'veheard of it.
It's the Museum of BrokenRelationships.
What is that?
Leila Krešić-Jurić (07:54):
Yeah, that's something fantastic.
It's actually a museum thatstarted because a couple who
broke up and they said, 'okay,we are still in good terms, we
have all these things that wewere given to as a couple.
What do we do with them?
' And then they decided to opena museum with their old stuff
let's call it this way, and alsothe friends starting bringing
(08:15):
them their presents that theyhave like, have it like, you
know, like memory from arelationship.
Either someone divorced andthen had some memory.
So each of these objects therehas its own story and this story
is written.
Of course, it's not a longstory.
It's usually in like onesentence and two sentences, but
when you s to the museum, nomatter, it should be like, let's
(08:36):
say, a sad museum.
Actually it's super fun andsuper exciting and you have
really good time.
They open a few franchises likethis.
Actually, this museum it's alsobeing like hosted at other
museums throughout the world andbesides the museum of broken
relationship, there is onereally, really super cool museum
that there are a few franchisesopen in the United States.
(08:56):
It's a Museum of Illusions.
It's also in Zagreb.
Lea Lane (09:00):
Where in Europe?
Leila Krešić-Jurić (09:01):
It's made illusions.
Yeah, museum of illusions.
Yeah, there is one in New Yorkas well, I think it's like 9th a
14th D, something like that,but in that area definitely, and
there are others also in Vegasrecently open.
So there are a few crossWashington.
I remember in Losier, Chicago.
So, yes, there are two crazyfranchises from Croatia that are
(09:22):
now conquering the world, andit's really super fun,
interesting.
Lea Lane (09:26):
You think about art and you think about medieval
facts and things like that, butto think of these wonderful sort
of whimsical places, that's funto know about.
Now you mentioned the gourmetfood.
In Zagreb there's a marketplaceI know that has wonderful foods
that you can stroll around.
What are some of the classicfoods that you would eat when
you go there?
What should you not miss?
Leila Krešić-Jurić (09:46):
Well, when in Zagreb and in general this
northern central area, there issomething that is very popular
it's actually pastry with cheese, very specific cheese made in
these small villages.
It's something that you cantaste it in the restaurant of
the Hotel Esplanada, which is afamous hotel in the city center
of Zagreb that was establishedat the occasion of the Orient
(10:11):
Express train that was runningat that time, 100 years ago.
It's going to be like 100 years.
This hotel was open and, forexample, the Struckli, the most
famous you will try in EsplanadaHotel.
Of course, anywhere else youcan ask for them, but it's
something super, super cool toask and taste.
Lea Lane (10:28):
I think I've heard of it as 'dirty macaroni.
That's a way of saying it.
I've heard it, but it's kno ittastes delicious, but that's
what I've heard it's called.
Of course, the grilled fish andthe seafood of the area.
Also, I remember delicious andyour rakia.
What is rakia the deliciousdrink?
Leila Krešić-Jurić (10:45):
thing, rakia is something super strong.
It's a very strong alcohol andthere are different kinds of
rakia.
You can make them with somesort of fruits, so they're like
more fruity, but in general,bottom line it's 50% alcohol.
So it's really strong.
Lea Lane (11:03):
You don't want to walk on the wall when you drink the
rakia.
Leila Krešić-Jurić (11:07):
You toast with them.
But it's funny, in the smallervillages people take this.
Older people take this in themorning.
Okay, just for the morning, tomake the day a good day of
course.
Lea Lane (11:19):
Okay, from rakia, let's move on to another
wonderful city, Split.
It's the second largest city inCroatia.
It's on the coast.
What should we not miss?
Of course, there's one thing wehave to mention, and everyone
tries to visit it.
It's Diocletian's Palace.
Tell us about that.
Leila Krešić-Jurić (11:36):
Well, I'm very proud to be from Split.
Actually, Antonia is alsocoming from Split with a birth,
born there.
Split is in terms of creation.
I will tell you now a littlestory.
It's recognized as Split in thearea oh, you are just good
looking, smart and lazy.
Then of course, everybody wantsto be good looking, everybody
(11:56):
wants to be smart, but nobodywants to be lazy.
But then when you know thehistory, that our founder, the
emperor, Di Euclation, actuallywho he was, it was the most
powerful, not so much known, butthe most powerful Roman emperor
ever.
So at his height, Roman Empirewas the largest ever, so large
(12:17):
that he said okay, guys, I'mgoing to retire, I'm going to
build a palace for myself at mymother's birthplace, which is
Salona.
It's just nearby Split, it'sliterally the village next to
split.
He said I divided the Romanemperor into four.
He actually put four of hispeople to rule the Roman emperor
and he retired.
(12:38):
So actually it was also theinvention of retirement.
The concept of retirement camethrough t clation.
I remember at that time nobodywas retired.
You either get killed, or yousuffer from hunger and you die,
or you just, you know, simple,die, but nobody.
I mean people were working allthe time.
So he retired.
He asked the architects toconstruct him a palace at the
(12:58):
best place.
So he let the sheep eat thegrass.
Where the sheep didn't want toeat the grass, his council said
that this is not a good place.
So actually they found the bestplot for him to build the
palace and it was nearby alsothe sulphate waters.
Because he needed sulphatewaters as a cure for his spine,
because of course he was afterso many battles.
(13:20):
He needed a help, actually ahealth tourism at that time.
So today we call it city ofSplit.
It was actually founded, thebeautiful palace near the
healthy, the healing waters andwith the luxurious rooms that
were pertaining to the emperor,while the other half of the
palace was inhabited by thesoldiers and people who were
(13:41):
actually coming as traders, etc.
Today you still have peopleliving in the palace and we
estimate that it is probably theonly place, only palace in the
world.
that people literally liveinside.
Of course you don't see it assuch unless you have a birds
view, birds view or you can seeit, of course, from the markets
that it's a palace.
But you can recognize the doors, the gates, you can recognize
(14:03):
the buildings, you can recognizemany, many fragments that, of
course, today were alsomodernized and, what is
important, we have a beautifulhotel inside the palace.
And you have a summer festivalinside the palace, with the
Sphinx, with the Cathedral whichis the oldest Catholic
cathedral in the world as well,that it's passing through
Dalmatia, not visiting Split,it's like not being in Croatia.
Lea Lane (14:25):
Exactly, and the beaches are pretty good too
around there.
I have to say that nearby isPlitvice.
Am I saying that correctly, oris it Plitvice?
Leila Krešić-Jurić (14:35):
Plitvice.
Yes, yes, yes.
Lea Lane (14:37):
Plitvice.
Whatever I'm saying, it'sgorgeous.
It's the largest and oldestnational park in Croatia.
It's a World Heritage Site.
It's known throughout the worldfor its 16 lakes and
magnificent waterfalls, upperand lower.
Describe it for us, Antonija.
Antonia Urlic (14:52):
I would like to share my personal experience
with Plitvice Lakes.
So every time, whatever season,I come to Plitvice Lakes, I
always say, oh my God, I have tocome here in each and every
season, because whenever I go toPlitvice they are completely
different in winter time, springtime, summer time or in autumn.
It is just fabulous with such adramatic nature and it makes us
(15:16):
so proud that we have it andthat we preserve it.
Nowadays, I can share with youa little bit more about Plitvice
Lakes, one of the mostattractive natural sites in
Croatia.
Leila Krešić-Jurić (15:26):
It was proclaimed as the first national
park in April 1949.
It was really a long time agoand 30 years after, in 1979, it
became inscribed into the UNESCOWorld Heritage List.
So they are really, togetherwith Dubrovnik, the other first
ones, I think, the DioclationPalace, all the three of them
that were inscribed into UNESCOHeritage List in the same year.
(15:48):
It's covered with forestvegetation.
There are 16 lakes smaller andthey are all cascading into one
each other.
We call them the whole lakesystem.
We call it like upper lakes andlower lakes, where we are names
, of course, very, very, veryhomemade, let's say.
Each time of the year you havesomething different that you can
try and you, however, swimmingis not allowed anymore.
(16:09):
When I was the kid yes, it wasmany years after.
Lea Lane (16:12):
I would say, go each season in your lifetime.
Antonia Urlic (16:16):
Each season.
Lea Lane (16:16):
Yes, it's all that one very easily right.
I have to also mention anotherbeautiful park, Kirka.
also has beautiful waterfalls.
There are so many of thesegorgeous areas beyond the coast.
Many people don't go far fromthe coast, but you have all
these inland beautiful areas,and I want to mention the little
village, Slunj.
Am I pronouncing that right?
Slunj?
(16:37):
It's one of the 54 best touristvillages in the world,
according to the World TourismOrganization.
Very charming, with woodenhouses and rushing waterfalls,
and it's in the neighborhood ofRastoki .
Leila Krešić-Jurić (16:51):
Yes, it's also very popular for the local
people, especially from Zagreb,which is like one hour from,
even less with the highway fromZagreb, and it is like a mixture
of a little cascades, littlelakes, a lot of water, the
rivers and the small houses,wooden houses, and it's all like
some fairy tale.
(17:12):
That's how it looks like in thereal world.
Lea Lane (17:14):
Kind of a hidden secret, but it isn't so hidden
anymore, but it's one of thosespecial places that many people
overlook, so try to keep that inmind when you go to Croatia to
visit some of the smaller townsthat are like fairy tale towns.
Let me just ask about lodging.
I know, antonio, that that isyour specialty.
You represent a group calledStories, which is a collection
(17:35):
of boutique hotels which acquaguests with the legacy of the
heritage, and they're set incoves and in thousand year old
buildings, like we've mentioned,in the castles.
Just give us an idea, if youcan, where you can stay.
I mean, we can stay in a B&B ora hostel.
There are so many places,five-star hotels, great lodgings
, but this is very special.
(17:56):
So give us an idea of what yourepresent.
Antonia Urlic (17:58):
Yeah, the hotels within our collection are
handpicked, small boutiquehotels that each offers a unique
experience related either tocultural history, go or nature.
What is very special about themis that they have a very strong
character and they provide astrong sense of the place.
So, for instance, we mentionedalready in Split, our member is
(18:22):
a Vestibule Palace hotel, whichis a small gem hidden in the
heart of Emperor DiocletianPalace.
Its guests can literally say Islept where Emperor Diocletian
used to sleep, because it islocated within a previous
private corners of EmperorDiocletian and it is a hotel
that was created from threepalaces, emerging by three
(18:43):
palaces from three differenteras Roman: gothic Gothic and
Renaissance into one hotel withonly seven suites.
And the hotel has even theoriginal walls from Roman era,
from third century that you canfeel and sense and touch in the
hotel, in some of the suitesalso.
But on the other hand, we alsohave hotels in all the noble
(19:04):
summer houses.
For instance, Kazbek Boutiquehotel in Dubrovnik is exactly
that.
It is a noble house that wasconverted to a small hotel with
13 rooms, telling the storyagain about the noble men in
Dubrovnik that prefer to stayout of the city walls.
So they built for themselves,these i erinian erranean summer
houses that are now allculturally protected, and Kazbek
(19:26):
is, for instance, in is one ofthose.
And then we have somethingcompletely different.
For instance, in Istria, whichis the most famous gourmet
region of Croatia in thenorthern part of the Adriatic,
we have wine oasis or olive oiloasis, small gourmet family run
hotels or large wine oasis, and,in addition to this, also chic
(19:48):
modern hotels like Adriana Hvaron the island of Hvar, that
perfectly incorporated allflavors and scents of Hvar
island into service they offer.
So you have for breakfast,which is known as one of the
best breakfasts in Croatia, youcan choose from eight types of
honey that are done with localherbs from Hvar Island, or you
(20:10):
have spa treatments with theoils and scents of Hvar Island.
Sounds fabulous.
I'd like to go to each one ofthose as well.
I think that's all I need to dois keep going to Croatia, to
the islands and to the wonderfulplaces to eat and all of the
sounds terrific.
Well, the name of the podcastis places I remember.
Would each Places you Remembera personal memory of your
(20:34):
beautiful country?
How about starting with Leila?
Leila Krešić-Jurić (20:37):
Great.
Actually, it's a very toughquestion because when you asked
me the first moment, it was okay.
So many times, people whom Iknow, after they are back from
Croatia, they said you know, wehad to testify that the photo of
the beaches and of the clearblue water, that it's really not
photoshopped.
Now, I'm sure it's notphotoshopped because I've been
(20:57):
there and it's something thathappened to me literally every
year with someone who istraveling and then not sure what
they'll be found there.
However, the most picturesqueexperience, I would say happened
many years ago when themembers, 30 people, members of
the Gastronomy Academy ofMarbella in Spain they came 30
of them to the islands, so fromSplit to Dubronik, they were
(21:20):
actually sailing the island, butalso they stayed like they had
two weeks.
They were doing this kind oftrip.
So I remember they were comingto Croatia with so it was in
2021, years ago.
They came with wines.
They brought wines with them.
They brought prosciutto theybrought.
Everything was, of course,vacuumed because they were
afraid what they are going tofind in Croatia.
(21:42):
They literally didn't open anySpanish wine, they didn't touch
the meat, and whateverprosciutto and cheese they
actually brought with them, theyliterally gave it to the cook,
just to have it for later times.
First they went to see thethat's why I remember so vividly
the Nabuka opera.
So they were eating local,organic, local food, local
(22:05):
vegetables, local fruits.
Everything was so made localactually made how they visited
the Dalmatian coasts and theislands.
They wanted to buy the wines andI remember there's a major
thing for me was the owner ofthe little winery in Braciland
didn't want to sell them more.
He said you are the friends ofmy friends.
(22:25):
I gave you the best wine whichI keep for my family.
I gave you to you to taste it,one glass for each.
You are 30.
I'm not going to give you morebecause I don't have such a
quantity and the best.
I want to keep it for my family.
It was so good that they wereready to buy the whole quantity.
It was a time when Croatiareally started to build its way
on the gourmet scene in Europe.
(22:46):
Now we can see that and wewitness that we built it on a
much global scale, not onlyEurope, but I would say in the
global, in the world.
And this little story itremembers me that only 20 years
ago people were so surprised tofind some good food and good
wine here and today.
That is the reason why peoplecome to Croatia, especially from
(23:07):
the US.
Lea Lane (23:08):
Excellent, thank you, Antonija.
what about you?
Antonia Urlic (23:12):
When I was a kid, I used to spend my summers on
the sailing boats sailing allaround Adriatic coast, and one
of the most memorableexperiences that I remember is
once when we were sailing fromthe island of Hvar to the island
of Kortula.
We were sailing through thislarge channel that is between
these two islands and all of asudden, a dolphin came by by the
(23:36):
side of our boat and for theshort period of time we were
sailing together, so all youcould hear was the engines were
off, of course, of the boat, andall the sounds that you can
hear is the boat sliding on thesurface of the sea and the
dolphin swimming by the side.
And it was such an amazingemotion.
(23:56):
We feel like we were connected,amazing.
You felt so small in this large, beautiful nature, connected
with this amazing animal, thisamazing creature.
Lea Lane (24:07):
So often, the simplest of memories are the ones we
remember our entire lives.
That's beautiful.
Croatia is indeed a specialcountry.
Thank you, Leila Kresik Jurek,director of the Croatian
National Tourism Board in NorthAmerica, and Antonija Erlek,
president of Stories Hotel, forsharing your insights and
memories about your beautifulcountry.
(24:28):
Thank you.
Leila Krešić-Jurić (24:29):
Thank you, Lea.
Antonia Urlic (24:30):
Thank you, Lea, for your time.
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Crime Junkie
Does hearing about a true crime case always leave you scouring the internet for the truth behind the story? Dive into your next mystery with Crime Junkie. Every Monday, join your host Ashley Flowers as she unravels all the details of infamous and underreported true crime cases with her best friend Brit Prawat. From cold cases to missing persons and heroes in our community who seek justice, Crime Junkie is your destination for theories and stories you won’t hear anywhere else. Whether you're a seasoned true crime enthusiast or new to the genre, you'll find yourself on the edge of your seat awaiting a new episode every Monday. If you can never get enough true crime... Congratulations, you’ve found your people. Follow to join a community of Crime Junkies! Crime Junkie is presented by audiochuck Media Company.