Going Back To The Fundamentals Of Fashion | Season 3 Episode 1 | The Fashion Guru Podcast

GUIDELINES: 

1. ALWAYS MATCH YOUR LEATHER.  Shoes, Belt and watchband

(unless you wear a watch with a metal bracelet style band)

1. BUTTON-DOWN SHIRT COLLARS.  Pinpoint dress shirts with button down collar are fine to use with a sport coat and trousers or a 2-piece notch lapel suit.  (NOTE: If you are going to wear a button-down collar, make sure you button the collar buttons.)

Do Not wear collar bars with a buttoned down collar (should be obvious)

1. BRACES/SUSPENDERS: Braces should be buttoned securely on the inside of the trouser waist band, not “clipped” to the waistband.

NEVER WEAR SUSPENDERS WITH A BELT!

1. SHIRT SLEEVES: Long sleeves should around the wrist bone peaking out of the jacket sleeve by ¼-1/2 inch

2. SUIT JACKET/SPORT COAT/BLAZER:   Never button the bottom button of the any of the above no matter what your reason.

3. JACKET BREAST POCKET: In my opinion, all jackets listed above should come with or be made with a breast pocket on the left side to house a silk or cotton pocket square.  I DO NOT WEAR JACKETS WITHOUT A POCKET SQUARE… EVER!  The whole ensemble looks unfinished without one.

Refer to Season 1, Episode 2 – Lorin J Fields. She custom makes some awesome pocket squares.  

1. OXFORD CLOTH SHIRT FABRIC: is for casual outfits only (especially when most oxford cloth shirts feature a button-down collar)

I prefer a Ralph Lauren Polo Oxford.  I also have them laundered and pressed.  Great with jeans, a sweater or sport coat casual.

1. DRESS SOCKS should always be worn with dress shoes when wearing a 2 piece, 3 piece or Formal Suit.

2. TROUSER CUFFS: Should be from 1-1/2 to 2-1/2 inches (cm 3.81-6.35)

3. NO FLAPS ON STANDARD TROUSER POCKETS 

4. TIES:  The wider the collar spread on the shirt, the wider the knot of the tie

5. SHIRT PLACKET / TROUSER VENT: They should always line up no matter what you are wearing

6. SHOES: Should always be leather or suede and be cleaned and stored properly after each wearing and polished if applicable before each wearing.

COLOR AND PATTERN MIXING

1. COLORWHEEL PROJECT w LORIN J FIELDS

Primary, Secondary, Terrtiary, Neutrals

1. KEY PIECES IN CAPSULE WARDROBE: 

Suits: all peak lapel or notched. Navy, Medium Gray and Tan

1 patterned sport coat – Herring Bone or window pane

Shirts: all POINT or Spread collar.  White and Light Blue 

1. TIES: 

3 solids: Blue, Red or Burgundy, Yellow family

1 Foulard 1 Paisley and 1 Stripe

1. POCKET SQUARES: 

2 solid: White and Red

2 Pattern: that have all colors.  (recommend paisley and pindot)

1. SHOES: 

Black Cap Toes and/or Single or Double Monks

Brown or Cognac Brogue or Derby

Cordovan Cap Toe or Derby

1. BELTS: All colors of the shoes you purchase.

2. DRESS SOCKS: Mid length or over the calf.  (some over the calf will keep your slacks from draping properly if you wear a slightly narrow leg)

Gold Toe or Southern Scholar Brands.

You can buy separates or packs of 2 0r 3.

NAVY, BLACK AND TAN and BURGUNDY to start then add other colors and simple patterns (NO NOVELTY SOCKS)

PROTECTION & CARE OF YOUR SHOES AND CLOTHES

Always use Cedar Shoe Trees for every pair of shoes.

Shoe Shine Kit a must.  Recommend SAPHIR

Clear Plastic Shoulder protectors for Suits and Jackets (or Drycleaner bags)

Good Wooden hangers for Suits and jackets

If you take care of your wardrobe it will take