Episode Transcript
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Solomon Simon Jacob (00:09):
Welcome to
The Kosher Terroir.
I'm Simon Jacob, your host forthis episode from Jerusalem.
Before we get started, I askthat, wherever you are, please
take a moment and pray for thesafety of our soldiers and the
safe return of all of ourhostages.
Welcome back, dear listeners,to The Kosher Terroir, the
(00:32):
podcast where we explore therich tapestry of kosher wines,
the people behind them and thestories that have shaped the
world of wine as we know it.
World of wine as we know it.
I'm Now, if you're like mostwine lovers, when you think of
bold reds, your mind probablygoes first to Cabernet,
Sauvignon, or Syrah, but todaywe're turning the spotlight on a
grape that is often flown underthe radar.
Jacob, your host, and today weare about to embark on a journey
that will take us acrosscontinents, through centuries of
history and deep into the heartof one of the most intriguing
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and powerful grape varietiesTannat.
Yet it has a cult following, afascinating backstory and a
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flavor profile that commandsrespect.
Tannat this is a variety thatdoesn't just whisper complexity,
it roars it.
In this episode, we're going topeel back the layers of Tanat's
remarkable story.
We'll explore its ancientorigins and how it migrated from
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its birthplace in the foothillsof the Pyrenees to new lands
where it has found a second homeand a whole new identity.
We'll uncover how this oncerustic and tannic grape became
the national pride of Uruguayand why some of the world's most
passionate winemakers are nowchampioning Tannat as the
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varietal of elegance, structureand surprising finesse.
You'll hear about how Tannatearned its reputation as a grape
that can outlast time itself,producing wines of immense
longevity, capable of aginggracefully for decades.
We'll share compelling storiesfrom the vineyard, from small
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family plots in the Frenchheartland to expansive estates
in South America.
And we'll reveal somelesser-known facts, like how
Tannat has found its way intothe kosher winemaking world and
how new techniques aretransforming what's possible
with this ancient grape.
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But why does Tenat deserve yourattention as a kosher wine lover
?
Well beyond its sheer power andpotential, tenat challenges us
to rethink what bold red winescan be.
It forces us to reconsider ourassumptions about structure,
ageability and food pairing and,perhaps more importantly, to
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not invite us into aconversation about tradition,
innovation and identity in thewine world.
After all, this is a grape thathad to migrate, adapt and
reinvent itself, much like thecommunities that have shaped
kosher wine history across thecenturies.
So whether you're a seasonedcollector looking for your next
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cellar-worthy bottle or acurious newcomer eager to
discover something off thebeaten path, I promise by the
end of this episode you'll neverlook at a Tannat the same way
again.
What makes Tannat one of themost tannic grapes in the world?
How did it become a symbol ofnational pride in Uruguay?
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And why do French farmers stillrevere it?
Is Tannat always a powerhouse,or can it show elegance and
grace?
And in the kosher wine world,where does Tannat?
Always a powerhouse or can itshow elegance and grace?
And in the kosher wine world,where does Tannat fit in?
Is it the future of bold kosherreds?
Well, we'll answer that and somuch more in the episode ahead.
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If you're driving in your car,please focus on the road ahead.
If you're relaxed at home,please pour yourself a glass,
maybe of a robust red.
If you have one handy, settlein and join me as we journey
through the world of Tannat.
Let's begin, as always, withits roots.
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The history of thisextraordinary grape.
Tannat's story, begins in therugged, It is here, in these
stony soils and cool mountainbreezes, that Tannant first took
root.
foothills of the PyreneesMountains, a land straddling
modern-day southwestern Franceand the Basque region.
The grape's name, as you mightguess, comes from its defining
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characteristic, itsextraordinary tannic structure.
In old Gascon dialect, the wordTannat is closely tied to
tannin, the term for the tanninsthat give red wines their
backbone and structure.
From its earliest cultivation,tannat was a grape for those who
valued strength and longevityin their wines.
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Local farmers and winemakers inMonduron, a small appellation
near the heart of Gascony,recognized that Tannat yielded
wines so dense, so astringent intheir youth, that they could
endure years, even decades, ofaging.
A wine of patience, of waiting,a wine that mirrored the
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character of the land and thepeople Tannat was firmly
established in Madiran and thewho nurtured it.
By the Middle Ages, surroundingBéarn and Basque territories.
Monasteries played a crucialrole in its development, as
monks cultivated Tannat vinesalongside other traditional
varietals, producing wines notonly for local consumption but
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also for pilgrims journeying theCamino de Santiago.
These were wines meant tofortify body and spirit, robust
companions for the long andarduous trek to Santiago de
Cambastea.
Tannat remained largely a localtreasure for centuries, its
cultivation mostly limited tosmall plots scattered across the
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hillsides of Madiran.
Across the hillsides of Madiran, the wines were rustic, dark
and tannic to the point of beingnearly undrinkable in their
youth, yet fiercely beloved bythose who appreciated their
aging potential.
Traditionally, these wines wereblended with small amounts of
other local grapes, such asCabernet Franc or Verre, to
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soften their harsh edges.
But Tannat's destiny wouldchange dramatically in the 19th
century.
Like many European varietals,tannat faced devastation during
the Phylloxera epidemic thatswept across France.
As vineyards were replaced andreimagined, tannat held on
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stubbornly, like the grapeitself.
Yet the most dramatic chapterin its global journey was just
about to begin.
In the 1870s, basque immigrantsbrought Tannat cuttings with
them as they settled in SouthAmerica, particularly in Uruguay
.
South America, particularly inUruguay.
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These early settlers, many ofwhom longed for the taste of
home, planted Tannat in the richsoils of their adopted land.
Little did they know thatUruguay would one day claim
Tannat as its national grape,transforming its identity
forever.
Uruguay's climate proved arevelation for Tannat the
Atlantic breezes, the warm sunand the clay loam soils produced
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grapes that retained the powerand structure of the French
Tannat, but gained a softness, afruit-forward character and a
drinkability that would haveastonished those old farmers,
Madiran.
What in France had been a wineof endurance and austerity
became in Uruguay, a wine ofgenerosity and approachability,
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still bold, still structured,but with an elegance that drew
new admirers.
By the mid-20th century, Tannatwas firmly entrenched in
Uruguay's wine culture.
Small family wineries, manystill run by descendants of
those original Basque immigrants, began refining their
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techniques, experimenting withoak aging, micro-oxygenation a
technique pioneered by theFrench winemaker Patrick de
Cournot to tame Tannat's tannins, and later modern vineyard
management to produce wines ofboth power and grace.
Meanwhile, back in Today,Madiran wines, while still firm
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and structured, are far moreaccessible in their youth,
showcasing dark fruit, spice,and earthy tones that reflect
both tradition and innovation.
France, tannat continued toevolve.
Modern winemaking uses usesgentler extraction methods.
The use of new oak blendingstrategies allowed winemakers in
Madiran to soften Tannat's oncebrutal edges.
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In the late 20th and early 21stcenturies, tannat began
attracting attention beyond itsstrongholds of Medellin and
Uruguay.
In the United States,particularly in California's
Central Coast, paso Robles andeven Virginia, pioneering
winemakers planted Tannat, drawnto its reputation for structure
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, ageability and uniquecharacter.
In Israel, where the kosherwine world has expanded its
varietal horizons in recentdecades, tannat plantings are
rare but growing, with a fewadventurous producers
experimenting with singlevarietal bottlings and blends,
recognizing the potential forTannat's bold structure to pair
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beautifully with rich cuisine.
Tannat's global rise speaks tothe modern wine drinker's
growing appetite forauthenticity, for wines that
tell a story of place and time,of struggle and triumph.
It is a grape that has neversought the easy path From the
craggy slopes of Madiran to thesunlit vineyards in Uruguay.
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Tannat has always demanded thebest of its growers, its
winemakers and, yes, itsdrinkers.
Tenat's history isn't just atimeline of where it was planted
and how it was vinified.
It's a tapestry woven withpowerful moments, bold
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characters and twists of fatethat transform a rustic tannic
grape into a symbol ofresilience and national pride.
Let's start with an early fact.
Tannat was once called theblack wine of Madiran, and for
good reason.
In the 17th and 18th centuries,madiran's tannat-based wines
were so dark and dense thatmerchants shipping barrels down
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the Adour River and out of theports of Bayonne would joke they
could patch a sail with asplash of it.
Sailors prized the wine for itslongevity on long sea voyages.
It didn't spoil easily, thanksto the same tannins that made it
challenging to drink young.
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The Phylloxera devastation ofthe 19th century is a key moment
in Tannat's tale.
While phylloxera ravaged Frenchvineyards, wiping out entire
regions, madurin's small,scattered plantings of Tannat
managed to survive in pocketslonger than some other varietals
simply because the region wasremote and less connected.
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But ultimately, like nearly allEuropean vines, tannat too had
to be grafted onto American rootstock to survive.
That shift forever alteredvineyard practices and ushered
in modern viticulture to theregion.
And then came one of the mostremarkable migrations in the
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history of wine Tannat's journeyto Uruguay.
In the 1870s, Pascal Harriague,a Basque immigrant, brought
Tannat cuttings to Uruguay,likely as a reminder of home.
Harriague was a visionary andhis plantings near Salto in the
north of the country thrived.
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His success inspired others andTanat quickly spread across
Uruguay, outcompeting othervarietals and becoming a symbol
of national agriculturalidentity.
To this day in Uruguay, you'llsometimes hear Tannat referred
as Harriague in his honor.
In a compelling twist, tannatbecame a symbol of national
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identity for Uruguay in much thesame way Malbec did for
Argentina, but with a smallerglobal spotlight.
Tannat festivals, nationalcompetitions Tannat was
officially recognized asUruguay's national grape, a
testament to how this Europeantransplant and even government
promotions of tannat wines arepart of Uruguay's cultural
fabric.
In 2002, became part of thecountry's soul.
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Back in France, a more recentchapter in Tannat's history
centers on Patrick du Cournau,the winemaker who, in the 1980s,
pioneered the use ofmicro-oxygenation, a technique
that bubbled tiny, controlledamounts of oxygen into the wine
during fermentation and aging.
This process helped tameTannat's famously harsh tannins,
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softening the wine without longaging.
Du Cournau's work didn't justchange how Tannat was made.
It revolutionized winemakingfor tannic stories, too, such as
that of Bodega Garzón worldwide.
There are other modern storiesin Uruguay, whose ambitious
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investment in state-of-the-arttechnology and sustainable
viticulture helped put UruguayanTannat on the global fine wine
map in the 21st century.
Their wines earned accoladesfrom critics who previously
hadn't paid much attention toTannat.
Today, Garzón's Tannats areexported around the world,
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including to the kosher winemarket.
Another remarkable fact is thattannat is one of the few grapes
studied for its potential healthbenefits, due to its extremely
high levels of procyanidins, atype of tannin believed to
support cardiovascular health.
Tannat wines from Madiran havebeen cited in research related
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to the so-called French paradox.
It's a rare example of grapevarieties making headlines not
just for taste but for itspossible contribution to
longevity.
And finally, let's not forgetthe small, quiet revolution in
Israel.
While not widespread, a handfulof Israeli producers are now
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experimenting with tannat, drawnby its potential to produce
kosher wines that are both boldand structured, capable of aging
gracefully and pairing withrich, traditional dishes.
These are early days, but theseeds of the new tannat chapter,
capable of aging gracefully andpairing with rich, traditional
dishes.
These are early days, but theseeds of the new Tannat chapter
are already being planted.
So when you pour a glass ofTannat, you're not just tasting
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wine, you're tasting centuriesof struggle, migration,
innovation and identity Inky,black, powerful and utterly
unforgettable.
Okay, so you've heard all aboutTannat's power, its bold
tannins and its journey fromFrance to Uruguay.
But, like many great grapes,tannat carries with it a
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treasure trove of lesser-knownfacts, surprising truths and a
few stubborn misconceptions.
Let's peel back the curtain andexplore what many wine lovers,
even seasoned enthusiasts, don'tknow about this mighty varietal
.
We often say that certain winesare tannic, but in the case of
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tannat, science backs up theclaim.
Studies have shown that tannathas the highest levels of
tannins of any known grapevariety used in commercial
winemaking.
In fact, its tannin content isoften double that, or more, of
Cabernet Sauvignon.
This isn't just about mouthfeel.
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Those tannins contribute to itsremarkable ageability, its deep
color and its role in theso-called French paradox, where
the consumption of red wine islinked to lower rates of heart
disease.
Speaking of the French paradox,while many grapes contain
beneficial polyphenols andantioxidants and antioxidants,
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tannats' procyanidin levels areoff the charts.
Some studies even point toMadiran tannat as among the
richest wines in heart-healthycompounds.
In fact, researchers examiningthe diet of southwestern
France's inhabitants link theirlongevity in part to their
regular consumption ofTannat-based wines.
So while moderation is alwayskey, it's nice to think that
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Tannat might offer more thanjust sensory pleasure.
Here's a fact that surprisesmany people Uruguayan Tannat
isn't genetically identical toFrench Tannat anymore.
Over the last century and ahalf, the tannat vines in
Uruguay have evolved, adaptingto local soils, climates and
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vineyard practices.
Dna analysis have revealedsubtle but meaningful
differences.
Some Uruguayan Tannat clonesproduce softer tannins or more
pronounced fruit character thanthe European ancestors.
This helps explain whyUruguayan Tannat tends to be
rounder and more approachable inyouth.
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One of the biggestmisconceptions about Tannat is
that it's always rough, rusticand challenging to drink young.
While that might have been trueof traditional Madiran
bottlings in the past, moderntannat can be surprisingly
elegant.
Winemakers today use gentleextraction, shorter maceration
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times, careful oak aging andtechniques like
micro-oxygenation to tame thegrape's wilder nature.
The result Tannat's that canshow velvety textures, rich dark
fruit and spice, and sometimeseven within a year In the US,
it has gained a loyal followingin Paso Robles, Texas, Hill
Country, Arizona, and Virginia.
Though most associated withMadiran and Uruguay, Tannat, has
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quietly spread around the world.
In Brazil and Argentina, smallplantings are producing
noteworthy vines.
And yes, even in Israel Tannatis emerging, with a handful of
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daring kosher producersexperimenting with the varietal.
Tannat's global map is morediverse than most people realize
.
We often hear Tannatrecommended with heavy meats
lamb, beef, game but did youknow that in Uruguay, some
locals swear by pairing Tannatwith blue cheese and even dark
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chocolate desserts.
Actually, both of those are myfavorite.
The wine's tannins interactwith the fat and salt of the
cheese and the bitterness of thedark chocolate in ways that can
be surprisingly harmonious.
And here's one to try to, notalongside grilled eggplant or
smoky mushrooms.
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It's a pairing that brings outboth the earthiness of the food
and the depth of the wine.
One fascinating niche that manydon't know about kosher tannat,
especially from Uruguay, isbecoming a quiet favorite among
adventurous kosher wine drinkers.
Though the quantities are stillsmall, these wines offer bold,
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age-worthy options for thoseseeking something beyond the
usual suspects, like Cabernetand Syrah, and because tannats
natural tannins give structurewithout needing much
intervention.
It's a grape that fits wellwith kosher production methods
emphasizing minimal additives.
And here's a curiosity Someampelographers say that three
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times fast.
Those are people who studygrapevines in their history
believe that Tannat may shareancestry with certain ancient
Basque and Iberian grapes thatare now nearly extinct.
This theory, though not fullyproven, hints to Tanat's deep
historical roots, perhapsstretching back far earlier than
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its known cultivation inMadiran.
Tannat is a grape of hiddendepths, literally and
figuratively.
Beneath its dark skins lie aworld of complexity, history and
surprise.
The next time someone tells youTannat is just a tannic brute,
you'll know better.
You'll know it's a grape ofnuance, culture and untold
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stories.
As we reach the end of ourjourney with Tannat, I invite
you to pause for a moment andreflect on what this
extraordinary grape represents,not just in the glass, but the
wider story of wine, culture andresilience.
Tannat isn't just a grape oftannins and dark color.
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Grape of tannins and dark color, it's a symbol of endurance,
from its origins in the ruggedhills of Madiran, monks monks
eke out a living from stonysoils, to its rebirth across the
Atlantic and Uruguay, where ittransformed into a gentler, more
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approachable wine.
Without losing its soul.
Tenat teaches us aboutadaptation.
It reminds us that sometimesstrength lies in flexibility,
that boldness and refinement arenot opposites they can coexist,
harmonize and elevate eachother.
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In the world of kosher wine,tanat opens doors.
It challenges us to look beyondthe familiar and to embrace
varietals that may not yet behousehold names, but which offer
richness, depth and uniquevoice.
As more kosher producersexperiment with Tannat, whether
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in Uruguay, israel or evenCalifornia, they're pushing
boundaries.
They're offering kosher winelovers the chance to experience
something both ancient and new,something that defies easy
categorization.
And isn't that the beauty ofwines?
Each bottle is more thanfermented juice it's history,
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geography, tradition and humancreativity, all bottled up and
waiting to be shared.
Tannat's story reminds us thatwine is a conversation between
the land and the vine, betweenthe winemaker and the drinker,
between the past and the present.
So here's my invitation to youthe next time you're browsing
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for a bottle, whether at yourlocal shop, online retailer or
just at a tasting seek out aTannat.
Just at a tasting, seek out aTannat, whether it's from
Madiran, Uruguay, or a kosherproducer pushing the envelope.
Give this grape a chance tospeak to you, taste its depth,
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feel its structure, listen toits story.
If you find a kosher tanat, I'dlove to hear about it.
Share your experience with me,message me through The Kosher
Terroir website or connect onsocial media.
Let's build a community thatexplores together and finally
(25:16):
revisit the episodes We'veexplored varietals like
Carignan, Grenache, andColombard, on The Kosher Terroir
you may have missed.
We've journeyed through thehistories of wineries, the minds
of winemakers and thecomplexities of kosher
certification.
Each episode is a chapter inthis ongoing conversation and I
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hope you'll be joining me formany more.
In our upcoming episodes we'llbe diving into the stories of
other grapes and regions thatdeserve the spotlight.
We'll meet winemakersinnovating in the kosher space.
We'll explore ancient vineyardsreborn and we'll ask big
questions what does the futureof kosher wine look like?
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How can tradition andtechnology coexist in the
vineyards and cellars?
So if you've enjoyed thisjourney with Tannat, I hope
you'll subscribe, share thisepisode and invite others to
join us.
Thank you for being part ofthis exploration.
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Tannat's story is far from over,and neither is ours.
Together, we'll continue touncover the hidden gems of the
wine world.
One glass, one episode, oneconversation at a time.
Until next time, l'chaim Cheers.
This is Simon Jacob, again yourhost of today's episode of The
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Kosher Terroir.
I have a personal request nomatter where you are or where
you live, please take a momentto pray for our soldiers' safety
and the safe and rapid returnof our hostages.
Please subscribe via yourpodcast provider to be informed
of our new episodes as they arereleased.
If you're new to The KosherTerroir, please check out our
(27:18):
many past episodes.
Bye.