February 23, 2025 • 27 mins
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In this episode of Kosher Terroir, we trace Colombard’s journey from its French roots to its surprising renaissance in places like California, Australia, and Israel. Learn why Colombard, with its natural high acidity and robustness, is stepping into the spotlight, challenging its status as merely a blending grape, and earning accolades for its ability to produce wines rich in character and flavor.
As we explore Colombard’s global journey, discover the diverse expressions of this unique grape across various terroirs, from the vibrant, fruit-forward wines of South Australia to the mineral-rich, crisp varieties emerging from Israel’s high-altitude vineyards. Delight in tales of forgotten vines rediscovered in California and the amusing mix-ups with the country of Colombia in wine circles. This episode offers an engaging look at Colombard’s transformation from an overlooked varietal to a beloved comeback grape. Whether you’re a seasoned wine enthusiast or a curious novice, this celebration of Colombard is bound to enrich your understanding of the wine world’s unsung hero.
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Episode Transcript
Available transcripts are automatically generated. Complete accuracy is not guaranteed.
S. Simon Jacob (00:09):
Welcome to The Kosher Terroir.
I'm Simon Jacob, your host forthis episode from Jerusalem.
Before we get started, I askthat, wherever you are, please
take a moment and pray for thesafety of our soldiers and the
safe return of all of ourhostages.
If you're driving in your car,please I'm Simon Jacob, and
(00:31):
today we're diving into a whitegrape that has been called the
workhorse of the vineyard, agrape that has been overlooked,
misunderstood, and yet quietlymaking waves in the wine world
Columbard.
focus on the road ahead.
Welcome back to You may nothave heard much about Columbard,
but trust me, by the end ofthis episode, you'll want to
grab a glass and taste its magicfor yourself.
episode of , where we explorethe Why was it once seen as
just a bulk wine grape, and whyare winemakers in Israel,
California, and beyond beginningto recognize its true potential
?
world of kosher wines, terroirand the incredible people behind
them.
Wines, terroir and theincredible people behind them.
So what is Columbard?
(01:15):
That's what we'll exploretoday In this episode of r.
We'll take a deep dive into thefascinating journey of Colombard
(01:36):
, from its origins in France toits unexpected success in
California, its tropical fruitexpressions in Australia and its
exciting reinvention in Israelivineyards.
Today We'll hear aboutwinemakers who fought to
preserve century-old Columbardvines, explore why this grape
(01:57):
has been overlooked for so longand, of course, break down
exactly what it tastes like andwhere you can find the best
bottles right now.
So pour yourself a glass ofsomething crisp and refreshing
and join me as we uncover thehidden story of Colombard, the
comeback grape of the wine world.
(02:18):
Wine is full of hidden gems.
Some grapes capture the world'sattention instantly Think
Chardonnay, cabernet, sauvignonor Sauvignon Blanc.
But what about the grapes thathave been quietly working behind
the scenes for centuries,playing essential roles in
winemaking history, yet rarelygetting the spotlight?
(02:42):
Today we're uncovering one suchgrape, a grape that has been
misunderstood, underappreciatedand now finally making a
comeback Meet Colombard.
You may not have heard muchabout it, but Colombard has been
a silent hero in the wine worldfor generations.
It has played an essential rolein French cognac, powered
(03:06):
California's bulk wine boom andis now emerging as a star
varietal in Israeli winemaking.
But why did it take so long forwinemakers to see its true
potential?
Why was it once dismissed asjust a blending grape?
And, most importantly, whatdoes Colombard actually taste
(03:28):
like when, given the chance toshine, could this be one of the
world's most underrated whitewines.
To truly understand Colombard'sjourney, we have to go way back
to a time when wine wasn't justfor drinking, but also for
distillation into some of theworld's most renowned spirits.
(03:48):
Our story begins in France,where Colombard's roots stretch
deep into the vineyards ofCharentes and Gascony, two
regions synonymous with cognacand armagnac production.
This grape was never meant tobe a showstopper on its own, but
what it could do was providethe perfect foundation for
(04:11):
spirits that would stand thetest of time.
Colombard is a natural crossbetween Chenin Blanc and Guay
Blanc, two historicallysignificant grapes in European
viticulture.
Chenin Blanc is known for itshigh acidity and ability to age
gracefully, while Guay Blanc, anearly extinct variety, was once
(04:36):
widely planted in medievalFrance.
In fact, many of today's famousgrapes, including Chardonnay,
share Gouy Blanc as a parent.
With these genetics, colombardinherited some incredibly useful
traits that made itindispensable for winemakers in
western France.
It has natural high acidity,essential for creating
(05:01):
long-lasting, stable distillates.
It has neutral aromas, whichallow for a clean, controlled
distillation process and,finally, it has strong
resilience in the vineyard,allowing it to survive
unpredictable weather, animportant trait in the often
damp regions of Charentes andGascony.
(05:22):
These factors made Colombard anideal grape for cognac and
armagnac production.
Even though it wasn't the starof the show, it was a strong
supporting actor ensuring thatthese world-famous spirits had
structure and balance Forcenturies.
Colombard did exactly what itwas meant to do play a
(05:45):
background role in French brandymaking.
It was respected but nevercelebrated, and if this was
where Colombard's story ended,we wouldn't be talking about it
today.
But Colombard wasn't meant tostay hidden forever.
As French settlers andwinemakers sought new lands,
(06:08):
they took their vines with them.
Columbard, like many other OldWorld grapes, was planted across
the Atlantic, where itsadaptability and high yields
quickly made it a favorite amongvineyard owners.
Where did it go?
First, to South Africa, whereit became a key grape for making
(06:28):
brandy.
But its real story takes offwhen it reached the vast New
World vineyards of California inthe 20th century.
By the mid-20th century,columbard was about to undergo
its biggest transformation.
Yet California winemakersquickly realized that Colombard
had something valuableincredible productivity.
(06:51):
In the warm, sun-soakedvineyards of the Central Valley,
colombard vines could producemassive yields, sometimes up to
15 tons per acre.
Sometimes up to 15 tons peracre.
Compare that to a premiumvarietal like Pinot Noir, which
(07:11):
produces far less and requirescareful attention, and in an era
when American consumers wantedaffordable, high-volume wines,
columbard became the backbone ofthe jug wine industry.
By the 1970s.
Believe it or not, columbard wasthe most widely planted white
grape in California.
It was blended into cheap,mass-produced wines, often
(07:34):
labeled as California White orused to create nondescript table
wines.
Let me put this intoperspective.
At its peak, colombard made upnearly 25% of all white grape
plantings in California, morethan Chardonnay, more than
Sauvignon Blanc, more thanRiesling.
(07:55):
If you bought an inexpensivewhite wine in America in the 60s
or 70s, chances are you weredrinking columbard.
But what happens when a grapeis misunderstood?
It often gets replaced.
As wine tastes evolved in the1980s and 1990s, consumers
(08:16):
became more sophisticated.
They wanted wines with moredepth, complexity and
recognition.
Chardonnay was booming,sauvignon Blanc was rising in
popularity and even lesser-knownvarietals like Viognier were
gaining traction.
Unfortunately, colombard,having spent decades as a bulk
(08:39):
wine grape, was not associatedwith fine wine.
Vineyard after vineyard wasripped out to make way for more
profitable grapes, the columbardplantings that once covered
tens of thousands of acres inCalifornia began to disappear.
The grape was at risk of fadinginto obscurity.
(09:00):
And then something unexpectedhappened into obscurity.
And then something unexpectedhappened.
Winemakers, particularly thoseworking with older vines, began
to take another look atColumbard.
Could it actually produce goodwine and not just bulk wine?
In California's Russian RiverValley, a vineyard called Betty
(09:22):
Ann Vineyard held a hiddentreasure columbard vines.
Over 120 years old.
These ancient vines, survivorsof prohibition and shifting wine
trends, were almost forgotten.
But when a new wave ofwinemakers tasted the wine they
produced, they were stunned.
Wave of winemakers tasted thewine they produced.
(09:43):
They were stunned.
Instead of a neutral,high-yielding workhorse, they
discovered depth, minerality anda beautiful acidity.
This moment became a wake-upcall for the wine world.
Colombard wasn't just a blendinggrape.
It could shine on its own.
(10:03):
At the same time, israel wasbeginning to experiment with
colombard as a high-qualityvarietal, planting it in Galilee
and the Judean hills.
Winemakers in South Africa alsobegan crafting single-varietal
colombard wines instead of justusing it for brandy.
Columbard wasn't dead.
It was just waiting for someoneto recognize its true potential
(10:24):
.
So where does Columbard standtoday?
Well, it's no longer just aworkhorse grape.
It's being rediscovered inCalifornia, israel and beyond,
and it's finally getting therecognition it deserves.
Let's explore how Colombardexpresses itself differently in
(10:45):
each region, from its crisp,mineral-driven wines in Israel
to its tropical, fruit-forwardexpressions in Australia.
One of the most fascinatingthings about wine is how a
single grape variety can tastecompletely different depending
on where it's grown.
Terroir.
(11:06):
The combination of climate,soil, altitude and winemaking
techniques shapes thepersonality of a wine in ways
that even the most skilledwinemaker can't fully control.
Colombard is no exception.
In one part of the world it's asharp, acidic distillation
grape.
(11:26):
In another it's lush andtropical, and in Israel it's
quietly becoming one of the mostintriguing white wines on the
market.
Let's take a tour ofColombard's four most important
terroirs and discover how thisgrape changes from one country
to the next.
(11:48):
Let's start where it all beganFrance.
For centuries, colombard hasbeen planted in the Charentes
and Gascony regions, where itsmain purpose was not to make
fine wine but rather to bedistilled into cognac and
armagnac.
Why?
Because in France, Colombard'smost valued trait isn't its
(12:08):
flavor, it's its high acidity.
When making brandy, winemakersneed a base wine that is low in
sugar, high in acid andrelatively neutral in aroma.
And relatively neutral in aroma, colombard checks all those
boxes.
When made into table wine,french Colombard is crisp and
refreshing, but rarely the starof the show.
(12:30):
Most of the time it's blendedwith Ugni Blanc and Follet
Blanche in the white wines ofCôte de Gascogne, where it
contributes bright acidity andcitrus notes.
These wines are easy drinking,affordable and incredibly
food-friendly.
If you were to sip a FrenchColombard, you'd likely taste
(12:54):
green apple, lemon zest andfresh-cut grass.
It's light-bodied, crisp andsimple.
A perfect summer wine, but notsomething that often grabs
headlines.
Now let's jump across theAtlantic to California, where
Colombard went from being aforgotten brandy grape to the
(13:15):
most widely planted white grapein the state, at least for a
time.
In the mid-20th century,california winemakers fell in
love with Colombard's highyields.
Unlike finicky grapes likePinot Noir, colombard could
produce massive crops in the hotirrigated vineyards of the
(13:36):
Central Valley, and that'sexactly what big wine companies
wanted A grape that could beturned into cheap, mass-produced
jug wine for the Americanmarket.
By the 1970s, colombarddominated California's white
wine scene, but not in a goodway.
It was blended into genericCalifornia white wines where it
(14:00):
added acidity but little else.
Consumers didn't know they weredrinking columbard and, quite
frankly, most of them wouldn'thave cared.
But today the story is changing.
Instead of the bland,forgettable wines of the past,
today's California columbardshave zesty citrus, ripe melon
(14:22):
and even floral aromas.
Some winemakers are evenexperimenting with oak aging to
give it a richer, more complextexture.
If you were to taste a boutiqueCalifornian columbard, you'd
notice a juicy, mouth-wateringfreshness, with flavors of
grapefruit, honeydew and whiteflowers.
Some even have a slightsalinity, making them perfect
(14:46):
with seafood.
Now let's head down under,where columbard takes on a
completely different personality.
In Australia, columbard ismostly found in South
Australia's warm regions.
Found in South Australia's warmregions like Riverina, barossa
Valley and Hunter Valley.
Here, the combination of hotclimate and sandy soils leads to
(15:13):
wines that are much fruitierand rounder than their French or
Californian counterparts.
Australian winemakers love toblend Colombard with Chardonnay
or Semillon, creatingeasy-drinking wines that are
bright, juicy and tropical.
If you were to sip anAustralian Colombard, you might
think you're drinking acompletely different grape.
(15:34):
Instead of tart green apple andlemon, you'd taste pineapple,
guava and passion fruit, with ahint of citrus zest.
The acidity is still there, butit's softened by the ripeness
of the fruit.
Australian columbard is greatwith spicy food like Thai or
Indian cuisine, because itsbright fruit flavors balance out
(15:59):
the heat.
And now we arrive at one of themost exciting regions for
columbard today, israelColumbard likely arrived in
Israel in the mid to late 20thcentury, introduced by pioneers
of the modern Israeli wineindustry seeking white varietals
that could thrive in theMediterranean climate.
(16:22):
For years Israeli winemakerstreated Columbard primarily for
bulk wines and cheap blends,much like in California, as a
simple blending grape, using itin large-scale production wines.
But the key difference inIsrael is its terroir.
Israeli columbard thrives inhigh-altitude vineyards,
(16:44):
particularly in the Judean hillsin Galilee, where the cooler
nights help preserve its naturalacidity and freshness.
The soils, a mix of limestoneand volcanic basalt, add a layer
of minerality that you don'tfind in Columbard from other
parts of the world.
Though it faced some earlychallenges with the Israeli
(17:06):
terroir, it has proven itselfover and over again on the issue
of climate suitability.
Columbard has adapted well toIsrael's warm, arid climate,
particularly in the Judeanhills', galilee and Negev desert
.
Its grapes maintain theirsignature high acidity, making
(17:28):
them attractive for producingfresh, aromatic white wines.
Many boutique winemakerscontinue fueling a modern
renaissance among boutiquewineries, elevating Colombard as
a prized varietal producingsingle-varietal wines that
showcase its bright,citrus-driven profile.
(17:48):
The wineries leading theColombard revival are Reconati
Winery in the Upper Galilee,where their columbard, telfarez,
is one of the most celebratedsingle-varietal columbard wines
in Israel.
It is grown in high-altitudevineyards which help preserve
its natural acidity and developcomplex aromas of grapefruit,
(18:13):
green apple and minerals.
Another Adir Winery, also inthe Upper Galilee, is producing
a dry Mevushal columbard.
Adir focuses on expressing thegrape's vibrant character with
minimal intervention withminimal intervention.
Another winery is MoneyVineyard, based in the Judean
(18:33):
hills, where their Sunny HillsColumbard, with its highlights
of tropical fruit and grassynotes, are balanced by ripe
fruit flavors with firm acidity.
Winemakers have realized thatold Columbard vines produce more
concentrated and complexflavors, leading to a new
(18:54):
appreciation for the grape.
Use of cold fermentationtechniques and early harvesting
ensure that the wines remaincrisp and vibrant, and even some
natural and skin contact.
Winemakers are beginning toexplore columbard for more
experimental styles.
As forward-thinking winerieshave been treating columbard
(19:16):
with the respect it deserves,the results have been
outstanding.
We have covered a lot, so let'sreview and break down again how
the multifaceted columbardvariety expresses itself
differently in various regionsbecause, as we have discussed,
depending on where it's grown,this grape tells a completely
(19:37):
different story.
In France it is light-bodied,with high acid and is mostly
neutral in taste.
It's used for brandy productionin cognac and armagnac In some
dry wines blends.
In Côte de Gascogne, itsinfluence is expressed in its
freshness and nuances of citrus.
(19:58):
In California, it'shistorically a bulk wine grape
but is now undergoing a boutiquerevival.
The old vine columbard fromRussian River Valley is highly
aromatic and mineral-driven andexpresses citrus, melon and
wonderful floral aromas.
In Australia, with its warmerclimate, columbard equates to
(20:22):
richer, fruitier wines,expressing notes of pineapple,
guava and passion fruit.
In this terroir it is oftenalso blended with Chardonnay and
Semillon.
Finally, in Israel, itshigh-altitude vineyards bring
out minerality and structure,along with hints of grapefruit,
(20:42):
green apple and salineminerality, with winemakers like
Reconati treating Columbard asa very serious varietal.
Here's a quirky story you mightenjoy.
A few years ago, one ofCalifornia's most prestigious
wine regions was home to somemystery vines that were finally
(21:04):
identified as Colombard.
They were found among other oldvine plantings and were thought
to be completely forgotten.
What's fascinating is that noone knew when these vines were
planted, but they were likelyfrom the early 1900s.
These vines were producingamazing fruit and no one had
(21:27):
touched them for years.
It's a story of how winemakinghistory can be rediscovered in
the most unexpected places.
This discovery sparked interestagain in Colombard's legacy in
California, and it's storieslike this that help elevate the
grape's profile even today.
(21:48):
Another quirky anecdote is fromthe Colombian wine culture.
Yes, I said Colombian not to beconfused with Colombard, but
this story involves a peculiarmisunderstanding about the
grape's name.
Colombard shares a name withColombia, the country in South
America, and for some time therewas a fun confusion between the
(22:11):
two in wine circles.
Some people mistakenly thoughtthat Colombard wine was somehow
linked to Colombian wine culture.
That, despite Colombia notbeing known for wine production
at all, wine lovers in Colombia,curious about this connection,
started showing up toognactastings asking winemakers if
(22:34):
they could taste the Colombianwine made from Colombard grapes.
It turned into a sort of insidejoke at wine fairs and tastings
.
Eventually it became a funteachable moment for Sommeliez,
who would explain that, despitethe name's similarities,
colombard has no connection toColombia's grape-growing regions
(22:56):
, which are more focused oncoffee and other tropical crops.
One of the Israeli wineriesmentioned above that has
embraced this Colombard comebackis Money Vineyard, which
produces their wine called SunnyHills, a fresh, crisp columbard
that has quickly become one ofthe country's top white wines.
(23:19):
Money Vineyard's owner, asecond-generation winemaker,
remembers how his grandfatherused to make wine from columbard
in the 1980s.
He remembers how simple andunrefined the wines used to be,
but now his family has refinedtheir techniques and managed to
(23:41):
craft a wine that showcasesColombard's true potential clean
, mineral and refreshing.
This is a story of how a grapeonce used for basic wines is now
being treated with the samerespect as other premium
varieties, and how Colombard isfinding its place in Israel's
(24:01):
evolving wine scene of Colombard, from its humble beginnings in
the sun-soaked vineyards ofFrance, through its unexpected
rise in California's bulk wineera, to its modern-day rebirth
in regions like Israel and evenAustralia and South Africa, is
(24:25):
nothing short of a fascinatingtale of resilience and
rediscovery.
We've uncovered how this grapewas once dismissed as just a
workhorse in brandy production,only to later prove its elegance
and complexity when grown inthe right terroir.
Whether in the high-acid crispwhites of Israel, the tropical
(24:48):
fruit-driven styles of Australiaor the rich history it carries
in the Cognac and Armagnacregions, colombard has truly
found its place in the world offine wines and, as we've seen,
it's not just a survivor, it's acomeback kid that keeps
surprising us with itsversatility and charm.
(25:11):
But what does the future holdfor this once-overlooked
varietal?
Could columbard continue toevolve and gain recognition as a
premium grape.
Are winemakers around the worldjust beginning to scratch the
surface of its true potential?
These are the questions thatwill keep Columbard at the
(25:32):
center of conversations foryears to come.
And as we look ahead, I can'thelp but wonder will we see new,
innovative winemakingtechniques emerge in the coming
years?
Will Israel continue to play aleading role in elevating
Columbard, showing us a newfrontier for white wines?
(25:53):
We may already be on the edgeof something extraordinary, and
you'll want to be here for it.
Before I sign off, I'll leaveyou with this what do you think?
Have you tried Columbard?
What's your favorite expressionof this grape?
Or perhaps what's your dreamColombard wine?
(26:14):
We'd love to hear from you andwe might just feature your
thoughts in a future episode.
Thank you for joining us todayon this incredible exploration
of Colombard here on the KosherTerroir.
Stay tuned because, as wecontinue to explore wines from
around the world, we'll diveinto more incredible stories,
(26:38):
terroirs and varietals that areshaping the future of kosher
wines.
Until next time, remember, wineis history in a glass and
there's always more to discover.
Cheers, and I'll catch you inthe next episode.
This is Simon Jacob, again yourhost of today's episode of The
(27:08):
Kosher Terroir.
I have a personal request.
Today's episode of the KosherTerwa.
I have a personal request.
No matter where you are orwhere you live, please take a
moment to pray for our soldiers'safety and the safe and rapid
return of our hostages.
Please subscribe via yourpodcast provider to be informed
of our new episodes as they arereleased.
(27:29):
If you're The Kosher Terroir,please check out our many past
episodes.
Welcome to The Kosher Terroir.
I'm Simon Jacob, your host forthis episode from Jerusalem.
Before we get started, I askthat, wherever you are, please
take a moment and pray for thesafety of our soldiers and the
safe return of all of ourhostages.
If you're driving in your car,please I'm Simon Jacob, and
(00:31):
today we're diving into a whitegrape that has been called the
workhorse of the vineyard, agrape that has been overlooked,
misunderstood, and yet quietlymaking waves in the wine world
Columbard.
focus on the road ahead.
Welcome back to You may nothave heard much about Columbard,
but trust me, by the end ofthis episode, you'll want to
grab a glass and taste its magicfor yourself.
episode of , where we explorethe Why was it once seen as
just a bulk wine grape, and whyare winemakers in Israel,
California, and beyond beginningto recognize its true potential
?
world of kosher wines, terroirand the incredible people behind
them.
Wines, terroir and theincredible people behind them.
So what is Columbard?
(01:15):
That's what we'll exploretoday In this episode of r.
We'll take a deep dive into thefascinating journey of Colombard
(01:36):
, from its origins in France toits unexpected success in
California, its tropical fruitexpressions in Australia and its
exciting reinvention in Israelivineyards.
Today We'll hear aboutwinemakers who fought to
preserve century-old Columbardvines, explore why this grape
(01:57):
has been overlooked for so longand, of course, break down
exactly what it tastes like andwhere you can find the best
bottles right now.
So pour yourself a glass ofsomething crisp and refreshing
and join me as we uncover thehidden story of Colombard, the
comeback grape of the wine world.
(02:18):
Wine is full of hidden gems.
Some grapes capture the world'sattention instantly Think
Chardonnay, cabernet, sauvignonor Sauvignon Blanc.
But what about the grapes thathave been quietly working behind
the scenes for centuries,playing essential roles in
winemaking history, yet rarelygetting the spotlight?
(02:42):
Today we're uncovering one suchgrape, a grape that has been
misunderstood, underappreciatedand now finally making a
comeback Meet Colombard.
You may not have heard muchabout it, but Colombard has been
a silent hero in the wine worldfor generations.
It has played an essential rolein French cognac, powered
(03:06):
California's bulk wine boom andis now emerging as a star
varietal in Israeli winemaking.
But why did it take so long forwinemakers to see its true
potential?
Why was it once dismissed asjust a blending grape?
And, most importantly, whatdoes Colombard actually taste
(03:28):
like when, given the chance toshine, could this be one of the
world's most underrated whitewines.
To truly understand Colombard'sjourney, we have to go way back
to a time when wine wasn't justfor drinking, but also for
distillation into some of theworld's most renowned spirits.
(03:48):
Our story begins in France,where Colombard's roots stretch
deep into the vineyards ofCharentes and Gascony, two
regions synonymous with cognacand armagnac production.
This grape was never meant tobe a showstopper on its own, but
what it could do was providethe perfect foundation for
(04:11):
spirits that would stand thetest of time.
Colombard is a natural crossbetween Chenin Blanc and Guay
Blanc, two historicallysignificant grapes in European
viticulture.
Chenin Blanc is known for itshigh acidity and ability to age
gracefully, while Guay Blanc, anearly extinct variety, was once
(04:36):
widely planted in medievalFrance.
In fact, many of today's famousgrapes, including Chardonnay,
share Gouy Blanc as a parent.
With these genetics, colombardinherited some incredibly useful
traits that made itindispensable for winemakers in
western France.
It has natural high acidity,essential for creating
(05:01):
long-lasting, stable distillates.
It has neutral aromas, whichallow for a clean, controlled
distillation process and,finally, it has strong
resilience in the vineyard,allowing it to survive
unpredictable weather, animportant trait in the often
damp regions of Charentes andGascony.
(05:22):
These factors made Colombard anideal grape for cognac and
armagnac production.
Even though it wasn't the starof the show, it was a strong
supporting actor ensuring thatthese world-famous spirits had
structure and balance Forcenturies.
Colombard did exactly what itwas meant to do play a
(05:45):
background role in French brandymaking.
It was respected but nevercelebrated, and if this was
where Colombard's story ended,we wouldn't be talking about it
today.
But Colombard wasn't meant tostay hidden forever.
As French settlers andwinemakers sought new lands,
(06:08):
they took their vines with them.
Columbard, like many other OldWorld grapes, was planted across
the Atlantic, where itsadaptability and high yields
quickly made it a favorite amongvineyard owners.
Where did it go?
First, to South Africa, whereit became a key grape for making
(06:28):
brandy.
But its real story takes offwhen it reached the vast New
World vineyards of California inthe 20th century.
By the mid-20th century,columbard was about to undergo
its biggest transformation.
Yet California winemakersquickly realized that Colombard
had something valuableincredible productivity.
(06:51):
In the warm, sun-soakedvineyards of the Central Valley,
colombard vines could producemassive yields, sometimes up to
15 tons per acre.
Sometimes up to 15 tons peracre.
Compare that to a premiumvarietal like Pinot Noir, which
(07:11):
produces far less and requirescareful attention, and in an era
when American consumers wantedaffordable, high-volume wines,
columbard became the backbone ofthe jug wine industry.
By the 1970s.
Believe it or not, columbard wasthe most widely planted white
grape in California.
It was blended into cheap,mass-produced wines, often
(07:34):
labeled as California White orused to create nondescript table
wines.
Let me put this intoperspective.
At its peak, colombard made upnearly 25% of all white grape
plantings in California, morethan Chardonnay, more than
Sauvignon Blanc, more thanRiesling.
(07:55):
If you bought an inexpensivewhite wine in America in the 60s
or 70s, chances are you weredrinking columbard.
But what happens when a grapeis misunderstood?
It often gets replaced.
As wine tastes evolved in the1980s and 1990s, consumers
(08:16):
became more sophisticated.
They wanted wines with moredepth, complexity and
recognition.
Chardonnay was booming,sauvignon Blanc was rising in
popularity and even lesser-knownvarietals like Viognier were
gaining traction.
Unfortunately, colombard,having spent decades as a bulk
(08:39):
wine grape, was not associatedwith fine wine.
Vineyard after vineyard wasripped out to make way for more
profitable grapes, the columbardplantings that once covered
tens of thousands of acres inCalifornia began to disappear.
The grape was at risk of fadinginto obscurity.
(09:00):
And then something unexpectedhappened into obscurity.
And then something unexpectedhappened.
Winemakers, particularly thoseworking with older vines, began
to take another look atColumbard.
Could it actually produce goodwine and not just bulk wine?
In California's Russian RiverValley, a vineyard called Betty
(09:22):
Ann Vineyard held a hiddentreasure columbard vines.
Over 120 years old.
These ancient vines, survivorsof prohibition and shifting wine
trends, were almost forgotten.
But when a new wave ofwinemakers tasted the wine they
produced, they were stunned.
Wave of winemakers tasted thewine they produced.
(09:43):
They were stunned.
Instead of a neutral,high-yielding workhorse, they
discovered depth, minerality anda beautiful acidity.
This moment became a wake-upcall for the wine world.
Colombard wasn't just a blendinggrape.
It could shine on its own.
(10:03):
At the same time, israel wasbeginning to experiment with
colombard as a high-qualityvarietal, planting it in Galilee
and the Judean hills.
Winemakers in South Africa alsobegan crafting single-varietal
colombard wines instead of justusing it for brandy.
Columbard wasn't dead.
It was just waiting for someoneto recognize its true potential
(10:24):
.
So where does Columbard standtoday?
Well, it's no longer just aworkhorse grape.
It's being rediscovered inCalifornia, israel and beyond,
and it's finally getting therecognition it deserves.
Let's explore how Colombardexpresses itself differently in
(10:45):
each region, from its crisp,mineral-driven wines in Israel
to its tropical, fruit-forwardexpressions in Australia.
One of the most fascinatingthings about wine is how a
single grape variety can tastecompletely different depending
on where it's grown.
Terroir.
(11:06):
The combination of climate,soil, altitude and winemaking
techniques shapes thepersonality of a wine in ways
that even the most skilledwinemaker can't fully control.
Colombard is no exception.
In one part of the world it's asharp, acidic distillation
grape.
(11:26):
In another it's lush andtropical, and in Israel it's
quietly becoming one of the mostintriguing white wines on the
market.
Let's take a tour ofColombard's four most important
terroirs and discover how thisgrape changes from one country
to the next.
(11:48):
Let's start where it all beganFrance.
For centuries, colombard hasbeen planted in the Charentes
and Gascony regions, where itsmain purpose was not to make
fine wine but rather to bedistilled into cognac and
armagnac.
Why?
Because in France, Colombard'smost valued trait isn't its
(12:08):
flavor, it's its high acidity.
When making brandy, winemakersneed a base wine that is low in
sugar, high in acid andrelatively neutral in aroma.
And relatively neutral in aroma, colombard checks all those
boxes.
When made into table wine,french Colombard is crisp and
refreshing, but rarely the starof the show.
(12:30):
Most of the time it's blendedwith Ugni Blanc and Follet
Blanche in the white wines ofCôte de Gascogne, where it
contributes bright acidity andcitrus notes.
These wines are easy drinking,affordable and incredibly
food-friendly.
If you were to sip a FrenchColombard, you'd likely taste
(12:54):
green apple, lemon zest andfresh-cut grass.
It's light-bodied, crisp andsimple.
A perfect summer wine, but notsomething that often grabs
headlines.
Now let's jump across theAtlantic to California, where
Colombard went from being aforgotten brandy grape to the
(13:15):
most widely planted white grapein the state, at least for a
time.
In the mid-20th century,california winemakers fell in
love with Colombard's highyields.
Unlike finicky grapes likePinot Noir, colombard could
produce massive crops in the hotirrigated vineyards of the
(13:36):
Central Valley, and that'sexactly what big wine companies
wanted A grape that could beturned into cheap, mass-produced
jug wine for the Americanmarket.
By the 1970s, colombarddominated California's white
wine scene, but not in a goodway.
It was blended into genericCalifornia white wines where it
(14:00):
added acidity but little else.
Consumers didn't know they weredrinking columbard and, quite
frankly, most of them wouldn'thave cared.
But today the story is changing.
Instead of the bland,forgettable wines of the past,
today's California columbardshave zesty citrus, ripe melon
(14:22):
and even floral aromas.
Some winemakers are evenexperimenting with oak aging to
give it a richer, more complextexture.
If you were to taste a boutiqueCalifornian columbard, you'd
notice a juicy, mouth-wateringfreshness, with flavors of
grapefruit, honeydew and whiteflowers.
Some even have a slightsalinity, making them perfect
(14:46):
with seafood.
Now let's head down under,where columbard takes on a
completely different personality.
In Australia, columbard ismostly found in South
Australia's warm regions.
Found in South Australia's warmregions like Riverina, barossa
Valley and Hunter Valley.
Here, the combination of hotclimate and sandy soils leads to
(15:13):
wines that are much fruitierand rounder than their French or
Californian counterparts.
Australian winemakers love toblend Colombard with Chardonnay
or Semillon, creatingeasy-drinking wines that are
bright, juicy and tropical.
If you were to sip anAustralian Colombard, you might
think you're drinking acompletely different grape.
(15:34):
Instead of tart green apple andlemon, you'd taste pineapple,
guava and passion fruit, with ahint of citrus zest.
The acidity is still there, butit's softened by the ripeness
of the fruit.
Australian columbard is greatwith spicy food like Thai or
Indian cuisine, because itsbright fruit flavors balance out
(15:59):
the heat.
And now we arrive at one of themost exciting regions for
columbard today, israelColumbard likely arrived in
Israel in the mid to late 20thcentury, introduced by pioneers
of the modern Israeli wineindustry seeking white varietals
that could thrive in theMediterranean climate.
(16:22):
For years Israeli winemakerstreated Columbard primarily for
bulk wines and cheap blends,much like in California, as a
simple blending grape, using itin large-scale production wines.
But the key difference inIsrael is its terroir.
Israeli columbard thrives inhigh-altitude vineyards,
(16:44):
particularly in the Judean hillsin Galilee, where the cooler
nights help preserve its naturalacidity and freshness.
The soils, a mix of limestoneand volcanic basalt, add a layer
of minerality that you don'tfind in Columbard from other
parts of the world.
Though it faced some earlychallenges with the Israeli
(17:06):
terroir, it has proven itselfover and over again on the issue
of climate suitability.
Columbard has adapted well toIsrael's warm, arid climate,
particularly in the Judeanhills', galilee and Negev desert
.
Its grapes maintain theirsignature high acidity, making
(17:28):
them attractive for producingfresh, aromatic white wines.
Many boutique winemakerscontinue fueling a modern
renaissance among boutiquewineries, elevating Colombard as
a prized varietal producingsingle-varietal wines that
showcase its bright,citrus-driven profile.
(17:48):
The wineries leading theColombard revival are Reconati
Winery in the Upper Galilee,where their columbard, telfarez,
is one of the most celebratedsingle-varietal columbard wines
in Israel.
It is grown in high-altitudevineyards which help preserve
its natural acidity and developcomplex aromas of grapefruit,
(18:13):
green apple and minerals.
Another Adir Winery, also inthe Upper Galilee, is producing
a dry Mevushal columbard.
Adir focuses on expressing thegrape's vibrant character with
minimal intervention withminimal intervention.
Another winery is MoneyVineyard, based in the Judean
(18:33):
hills, where their Sunny HillsColumbard, with its highlights
of tropical fruit and grassynotes, are balanced by ripe
fruit flavors with firm acidity.
Winemakers have realized thatold Columbard vines produce more
concentrated and complexflavors, leading to a new
(18:54):
appreciation for the grape.
Use of cold fermentationtechniques and early harvesting
ensure that the wines remaincrisp and vibrant, and even some
natural and skin contact.
Winemakers are beginning toexplore columbard for more
experimental styles.
As forward-thinking winerieshave been treating columbard
(19:16):
with the respect it deserves,the results have been
outstanding.
We have covered a lot, so let'sreview and break down again how
the multifaceted columbardvariety expresses itself
differently in various regionsbecause, as we have discussed,
depending on where it's grown,this grape tells a completely
(19:37):
different story.
In France it is light-bodied,with high acid and is mostly
neutral in taste.
It's used for brandy productionin cognac and armagnac In some
dry wines blends.
In Côte de Gascogne, itsinfluence is expressed in its
freshness and nuances of citrus.
(19:58):
In California, it'shistorically a bulk wine grape
but is now undergoing a boutiquerevival.
The old vine columbard fromRussian River Valley is highly
aromatic and mineral-driven andexpresses citrus, melon and
wonderful floral aromas.
In Australia, with its warmerclimate, columbard equates to
(20:22):
richer, fruitier wines,expressing notes of pineapple,
guava and passion fruit.
In this terroir it is oftenalso blended with Chardonnay and
Semillon.
Finally, in Israel, itshigh-altitude vineyards bring
out minerality and structure,along with hints of grapefruit,
(20:42):
green apple and salineminerality, with winemakers like
Reconati treating Columbard asa very serious varietal.
Here's a quirky story you mightenjoy.
A few years ago, one ofCalifornia's most prestigious
wine regions was home to somemystery vines that were finally
(21:04):
identified as Colombard.
They were found among other oldvine plantings and were thought
to be completely forgotten.
What's fascinating is that noone knew when these vines were
planted, but they were likelyfrom the early 1900s.
These vines were producingamazing fruit and no one had
(21:27):
touched them for years.
It's a story of how winemakinghistory can be rediscovered in
the most unexpected places.
This discovery sparked interestagain in Colombard's legacy in
California, and it's storieslike this that help elevate the
grape's profile even today.
(21:48):
Another quirky anecdote is fromthe Colombian wine culture.
Yes, I said Colombian not to beconfused with Colombard, but
this story involves a peculiarmisunderstanding about the
grape's name.
Colombard shares a name withColombia, the country in South
America, and for some time therewas a fun confusion between the
(22:11):
two in wine circles.
Some people mistakenly thoughtthat Colombard wine was somehow
linked to Colombian wine culture.
That, despite Colombia notbeing known for wine production
at all, wine lovers in Colombia,curious about this connection,
started showing up toognactastings asking winemakers if
(22:34):
they could taste the Colombianwine made from Colombard grapes.
It turned into a sort of insidejoke at wine fairs and tastings
.
Eventually it became a funteachable moment for Sommeliez,
who would explain that, despitethe name's similarities,
colombard has no connection toColombia's grape-growing regions
(22:56):
, which are more focused oncoffee and other tropical crops.
One of the Israeli wineriesmentioned above that has
embraced this Colombard comebackis Money Vineyard, which
produces their wine called SunnyHills, a fresh, crisp columbard
that has quickly become one ofthe country's top white wines.
(23:19):
Money Vineyard's owner, asecond-generation winemaker,
remembers how his grandfatherused to make wine from columbard
in the 1980s.
He remembers how simple andunrefined the wines used to be,
but now his family has refinedtheir techniques and managed to
(23:41):
craft a wine that showcasesColombard's true potential clean
, mineral and refreshing.
This is a story of how a grapeonce used for basic wines is now
being treated with the samerespect as other premium
varieties, and how Colombard isfinding its place in Israel's
(24:01):
evolving wine scene of Colombard, from its humble beginnings in
the sun-soaked vineyards ofFrance, through its unexpected
rise in California's bulk wineera, to its modern-day rebirth
in regions like Israel and evenAustralia and South Africa, is
(24:25):
nothing short of a fascinatingtale of resilience and
rediscovery.
We've uncovered how this grapewas once dismissed as just a
workhorse in brandy production,only to later prove its elegance
and complexity when grown inthe right terroir.
Whether in the high-acid crispwhites of Israel, the tropical
(24:48):
fruit-driven styles of Australiaor the rich history it carries
in the Cognac and Armagnacregions, colombard has truly
found its place in the world offine wines and, as we've seen,
it's not just a survivor, it's acomeback kid that keeps
surprising us with itsversatility and charm.
(25:11):
But what does the future holdfor this once-overlooked
varietal?
Could columbard continue toevolve and gain recognition as a
premium grape.
Are winemakers around the worldjust beginning to scratch the
surface of its true potential?
These are the questions thatwill keep Columbard at the
(25:32):
center of conversations foryears to come.
And as we look ahead, I can'thelp but wonder will we see new,
innovative winemakingtechniques emerge in the coming
years?
Will Israel continue to play aleading role in elevating
Columbard, showing us a newfrontier for white wines?
(25:53):
We may already be on the edgeof something extraordinary, and
you'll want to be here for it.
Before I sign off, I'll leaveyou with this what do you think?
Have you tried Columbard?
What's your favorite expressionof this grape?
Or perhaps what's your dreamColombard wine?
(26:14):
We'd love to hear from you andwe might just feature your
thoughts in a future episode.
Thank you for joining us todayon this incredible exploration
of Colombard here on the KosherTerroir.
Stay tuned because, as wecontinue to explore wines from
around the world, we'll diveinto more incredible stories,
(26:38):
terroirs and varietals that areshaping the future of kosher
wines.
Until next time, remember, wineis history in a glass and
there's always more to discover.
Cheers, and I'll catch you inthe next episode.
This is Simon Jacob, again yourhost of today's episode of The
(27:08):
Kosher Terroir.
I have a personal request.
Today's episode of the KosherTerwa.
I have a personal request.
No matter where you are orwhere you live, please take a
moment to pray for our soldiers'safety and the safe and rapid
return of our hostages.
Please subscribe via yourpodcast provider to be informed
of our new episodes as they arereleased.
(27:29):
If you're The Kosher Terroir,please check out our many past
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