June 19, 2025 • 41 mins
Send a Text Message to The Kosher Terroir
The grape that once dominated French vineyards has risen from obscurity to become one of the most exciting varietals in kosher wine. Carignan's story is one of remarkable transformation – from bulk wine scapegoat to artisanal darling.
Born in northeastern Spain so long ago it gave its name to a town rather than the reverse, Carignan traveled through the Mediterranean basin adapting to new terroirs and playing crucial roles in viticultural history. By the mid-20th century, it became France's most planted grape before falling victim to its own success. Overcropped and mismanaged, it gained an undeserved reputation for harsh, tannic wines lacking distinction.
For Israeli agriculture, Carignan proved invaluable during the First Aliyah of the 1880s. Baron Edmund de Rothschild imported French cuttings to help establish Jewish farming communities, with Carignan's resilience perfectly suited to Mediterranean conditions. For decades, it formed the backbone of Israeli wine, particularly for sacramental purposes, before being overshadowed by international varieties in the quest for prestige.
Today, visionary winemakers have rediscovered this ancient varietal's true potential. Through careful farming of old bush vines, limited yields, and thoughtful vinification, they're revealing Carignan's extraordinary range – from powerful, structured reds reminiscent of top Rhône wines to light, chillable natural expressions, elegant rosés, and even rare white versions.
What makes Carignan truly special is its chameleon-like ability to express terroir. The same grape produces wildly different wines in France, Chile, California, and Israel, each reflecting their unique growing conditions with remarkable transparency. Add its natural resilience to drought, heat, and disease, and Carignan suddenly looks like the perfect varietal for our changing climate.
Whether you're exploring bottles from Vitkin, Tepperberg, or boutique producers in the Judean Hills, Carignan offers something authentically Mediterranean yet distinctly modern. In its journey from rejection to renaissance, it tells a quintessentially Jewish story of resilience, adaptation and rebirth – a narrative worth savoring with every sip.
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Episode Transcript
Available transcripts are automatically generated. Complete accuracy is not guaranteed.
S. Simon Jacob (00:09):
Welcome to The Kosher Terroir.
I'm Simon Jacob, your host forthis episode from Jerusalem.
Before we get started, I askthat, wherever you are, please
take a moment and pray for thesafety of our soldiers and the
safe return of all of ourhostages.
Welcome back, my friends, toThe Kosher Terroir, where wine
(00:32):
meets story and where everyglass uncorks a world of
heritage, struggle,craftsmanship and soul.
I'm your host, simon Jacob, andtoday we're going deep.
I'm your host, simon Jacob, andtoday we're going deep.
We're taking a journey not justthrough the terroir, not just
(00:53):
through the vineyard, butthrough time.
If you're driving in your car,please focus on the road ahead.
If you're home, sit back, relax, open a bottle of wonderful
kosher wine and listen.
In this episode is about one ofthe most misunderstood,
overlooked yet extraordinarilyresilient grapes in the wine
(01:15):
world Carignan, yes, carignana,or Sardinia.
Carignano or California asCarignane, and in Israel.
Well, we'll get to that.
This is the grape withthousands of faces, a thousand
(01:40):
homes and a past so complicated.
It could be a Netflix series.
It has been vilified andglorified, torn up and replanted
, blended into anonymity and,more recently, revived into
something majestic.
But what exactly is Carignan?
Where does it come from?
(02:02):
Why has it been both adored anddismissed across history, and
what role does it play in thefuture of kosher wines?
Today, we'll explore all ofthat and more.
We'll unearth Carignan'stangled roots in Spain and
France.
We'll explore how it helpedshape the agricultural identity
(02:28):
of Israel, particularly in theearly days of the Zionist
movement.
We'll talk about winemakers whoare giving Carignan a second
chance, or perhaps a fifth, andproducing wines of surprising
finesse and freshness.
You'll learn about both red andwhite Carignan yes, white and
about how this grape, once knownmostly for cheap jug wine, is
(02:50):
now making a bold, defiantreturn to quality and elegance.
We'll get into productionstyles Think rich, unstructured
Mediterranean reds.
Think spicy, herbaceous redsfrom ancient bush vines.
Think light, juicy, almostBeaujolais-style expressions.
Think Carignan Blanc.
(03:12):
Yes, that is a thing.
And maybe most importantly,we'll get personal.
This isn't just a grape.
This is a survivor, a comebackartist, a grape with something
to prove.
And if you're in the kosherwine world or looking to expand
(03:32):
your palate beyond Cabernet andMerlot, carignan might just
surprise you.
You're sipping something lightand chillable from the Judean
hills or a deep-rooting carignanfrom Sardinia.
This grape invites you torethink what wine can be.
So if you've ever thought agrape's past was boring, think
(03:57):
again.
And if you're someone whothinks kosher wine is stuck in
the past, get ready to have yourpreconceptions shaken, decanted
and poured into something trulyfresh.
Let's uncork the story ofCarignan the rebel, the worker,
the shapeshifter.
Let's find out why, in thismoment and in this
(04:21):
terroir-driven renaissance ofkosher wine, carignan matters.
But where does Carignan reallycome from, and how did it become
both a cornerstone ofagricultural identity and a
scapegoat of industrialoverproduction?
Let's dive into Carignan'sincredible story.
So where does the story ofCarignan really begin?
(04:44):
Carignan's incredible story.
So where does the story ofCarignan really begin?
Like most grapefeller idols, itsprecise origins are a little
fuzzy, wrapped in centuries offolklore, shifting borders and
vine migrations.
But most historians agreeCarignan likely hails from
northeastern Spain, particularlyin the region of Aragon, where
(05:07):
it was known as Cariana, boththe name of the grape and the
town.
Yes, this grape is so old andstoried.
It gave name to a place.
That's right.
Carignan did not get its namefrom the town.
The town got its name from thegrape.
That should tell you something.
From there, carignan slowlybegan to move across the
(05:31):
Mediterranean basin and whereverit went, it adapted Not just to
new climates, but to newreputations.
Let's fast forward to the 19thcentury, france, where
carignan's fate took a dramaticturn as europe recovered from
the devastation of the phylloxiaplague, which wiped out entire
(05:53):
vineyards, carignan offered ananswer.
It was vigorous, resilient,high yielding and adaptable to
the hot, arid conditions of theLanguedoc-Roussillon region of
southern France.
And so the French planted itEverywhere.
We're talking about hundreds ofthousands of hectares.
(06:16):
By the mid-20th century,carignan became France's most
planted grape.
Yes, the most planted grape,france's most planted grape.
Yes, the most planted grape,even more than Merlot or
Grenache, think about that.
(06:36):
But here's the rub With greatyields came mediocre wine,
because Carignan, left unchecked, can easily become a workhorse,
pumping out bulk wines that arerustic, overly tannic and
harshly acidic.
That's exactly what happened inLanguedoc.
Carignan was dumped intosupermarket blends, anonymous
table wines and the infamous VinOrdinaire.
In short, carignan's reputationsuffered.
(06:59):
But let's hit pause here andcross over to a different
Mediterranean country, israel.
Now, this part of the story isimportant, especially to
listeners of the Kosher Terwa,because Karen Yan played a
massive role in the rebirth ofJewish agriculture.
In the early 1880s, as part ofthe First Aliyah, jewish
(07:22):
immigrants began returning tothe land of Israel.
Many were inexperienced farmers, but they had a vision to till
the land, build communities andrevive ancient viticulture.
With the support of BaronEdmund de Rothschild, cuttings
from French vines were imported,among them carignan.
(07:43):
Carignan was planted throughoutthe coastal plain and lower
Galilee, especially in Zichron,yaakov, rishon, litzion and
Binyaminah.
Its resilience to heat, diseaseand inconsistent farming
practices made it ideal for thenascent wine industry of
(08:04):
Palestine under Ottoman and thenBritish rule.
By the 20th century, carignanwas the backbone of Israeli wine
.
But just like in France,quantity began to overtake
quality.
Carignan's versatility becameits curse.
For decades it was usedprimarily as sacramental wine,
(08:27):
sweet kiddish blends orentry-level reds.
But was the kosher wineindustry's silent partner,
always there but nevercelebrated.
But something shifted.
In the early 2000s, in bothIsrael and globally, winemakers
began to re-evaluate Carignan.
They looked at the old bushvines, often neglected but still
(08:52):
thriving.
They asked what if we farm thisgrape with care?
What if we lowered the yields?
What if we picked at the rightmoment, fermented naturally and
aged thoughtfully?
That question lit a fire.
Now some of the mostinteresting wines in the kosher
(09:12):
world and the natural wine worldare made from old vine carignan
.
In California, winemakers areproducing vibrant, chillable
reds from dry farmed vinesplanted as far back as the 1940s
.
In Sardinia there is anappellation built around this
(09:35):
grape with powerful, deeplysavory wines.
In Chile, especially in MallValley, carignan has found new
Tepperberg, and Asaf Pass fromWittgen are crafting some of the
(09:59):
country's most expressive andage-worthy Carignan base wines.
So what happened?
Why the turnaround?
It's simple, really.
Carignan is not a bad grape.
It's a misunderstood one.
Like Pinot Noir or Grenache, itdemands attention, it needs
(10:19):
care, and when it gets it, whenit's dry farmed, harvested at
the right time, vinified withskill, it can produce wines that
are stunningly complex.
In fact, carignan has gone froma maligned blending grape to a
darling of sommeliers and winegeeks around the world.
(10:42):
Think about that transformationFrom bulk jug wines in
post-France to sacred vineyardsin early Zionist farming towns,
to nuanced small productionbottles in the Judean hills and
Sonoma coast.
Carignan has been there throughit all.
It's been cheap, it's beennoble, it's been forgotten, it's
(11:06):
been revived and, like any goodcharacter in a redemption arc,
it's finally getting therecognition it deserves.
Let's explore the productionstyle of Carignan in depth.
We will cover red, white, roséand the nuanced stylistic
(11:28):
decisions winemakers make aroundthe world, with a special lens
towards kosher production.
So now that we know Carignan'scomplicated, globetrotting past,
let's talk about how it showsup in your glass today.
Because if there's one wordthat defines Carignan in the
(11:48):
modern era, it's versatility,and that's a massive shift from
its reputation in the 20thcentury, where it was seen
mostly as a mass productionblending grape.
But now Carignan is an artist'scanvas.
The range of styles isthrilling, from deep, structured
(12:10):
reds to light, almost etherealchillables and, yes, even whites
.
Ethereal chillables and, yes,even whites.
Let's start with the classicstyle.
Traditional Carignan is deep,dense and tannic.
Historically, carignan has beenmade into powerful, tannic,
structured reds, especially insouthern France and Spain and
(12:32):
parts of the Mediterranean basin.
These wines are often medium tofull-bodied, rich in black
cherry, dried herbs and bakingspice, with firm tannins and
often elevated acidity.
Now here's the catch Carignanis naturally high in acid and
(12:53):
tannins and its yields arevigorous.
If you don't manage it properly, you get harsh, overly tannic,
sour reds.
But when you do manage it right, when you reduce yields,
harvest at ideal rightnesses andallow for slow maturation, it
(13:13):
produces wines with intensecomplexity and longevity.
Think of the Carignons fromSardinia.
These are serious savory wines,aged in oak, with notes of
forest floor, iron and wildherbs.
Pair that with grilled lamb andyou've got poetry in a bottle.
(13:35):
In kosher winemaking, someIsraeli producers are exploring
this bold Mediterranean style.
Look to Wittgen Winery, whereAsaf Paz focuses on low-yield
Mediterranean reds with realstructure and personality.
To Tepperberg, where DonnyFriedenberg is crafting a single
varietal Carignan that balancesripeness with restraint.
(13:59):
Another face of Carignan couldbe called the Nouveau-styled,
and it's juicy, chillable, withlow intervention.
Natural winemakers are pickingCarignan early, using whole
(14:20):
cluster fermentation, minimaloak and producing lively, juicy
wines that almost feel like ahybrid between Bourget and Rhone
Reds.
These wines are bright, ruby incolor, flavored with cranberry,
sour cherry and crushed rosessour cherry and crushed roses
(14:41):
and medium bodied with juicy,almost crunchy acidity.
Serve them chilled and you'rein for a real treat.
These wines are approachable,food friendly and deeply
expressive of terroir.
It's an exciting style and it'scoming to israel too.
Agor, a boutique producer inthe Judean Hills, along with
other producers in the Galilee,are experimenting with
(15:04):
early-picked carignan, wildyeast fermentations and amphora
aging.
They're producing kosher winesmeant for sunshine and casual
drinking.
This is the future of chillablered wines in Israel.
But let's talk about old vinecarignons, ancient bush vines
(15:25):
and terroir.
Here is where things getserious.
Some of the world's mostcaptivating carignon wines come
from old bush vines, often 50 to100 plus years old, growing in
dry farmed vineyards with poorsoil.
Old vines produce less fruit,but that fruit has more
(15:47):
intensity, lower sugar andphenolic depth.
The resulting wines are earthy,complex and haunting, with
savory undertones like blackolive, dried fig, pencil
shavings, and these are oftenfound with an age-worthy core of
restrained alcohol.
(16:07):
In Chile, the Vigno project isdedicated to preserving old vine
carignons.
These wines are soulful,minimal intervention and packed
with terroir.
In Israel, though, we don'thave Vignot-style associations
yet, we do have vines planted inthe 1970s and 80s, and some are
(16:33):
being rediscovered.
Look out especially for singlevineyard expressions coming from
the Reconati vineyard in theUpper Galilee.
Now let's shift gears.
Did you know there's a whiteCarignan?
That's right.
Carignan Blanc is a real,genetically distinct varietal.
It's extremely rare, primarilyfound in Roussillon and only
(17:00):
cultivated by a handful ofproducers.
This wine is textural, lightlyaromatic and often reminiscent
of white Rhone varietals.
They have notes of white peach,almond, blossom and salinity,
and are sometimes fermented inneutral oak or in forest reserve
mouthfeel.
(17:21):
This isn't a workhorse grape,it's a unicorn In kosher
winemaking.
It hasn't yet found traction,but watch this space.
Israel's interest in whiteMediterranean varietals is
growing and it's only a matterof time before someone plants or
imports Carignan Blanc.
(17:42):
Now here's a twist.
Some producers, in both naturaland kosher scenes, are making
Blanc de Noir styles of redCarignan grapes.
A South Pasen Witkin wineryjust introduced such a version,
which is particularlyspectacular.
By gently pressing red Carignanand separating the juice from
(18:07):
the skins quickly, you get awhite or pale pink wine from red
grapes, often structured like awhite but with more body and
depth.
These wines are crisp andmineral driven, while often
lightly oxidative and fantasticwith spicy Mediterranean food or
(18:27):
aged cheeses.
It's not yet mainstream, but inboutique natural cellars in
both California and Cantalonathis style is making waves and
the kosher version is picking upa clear fan base in the Tel
Aviv wine scene.
And of course, carignan Rosé isa thing of beauty.
(18:50):
Artfully described as summer ina glass, it offers tart red
fruit along with streak ofearthy minerality and often a
dry finish that pairsbeautifully with spicy food.
In Provence it's used in blends, but in California some
(19:10):
winemakers like producingsingle-varietal Carignan rosés
Zippy, clean and perfect forchilled summer sipping.
In Israel, rosé is trendingupward, and a Carignan rosé with
Israeli spices.
Olive oil-heavy cuisine is anatural fit.
(19:32):
Let's take a quick world tour ofsome of the notable kosher
carignan producers and styles.
Vitkin Winery in Israel has acarignan-based Mediterranean red
that's earthy, herbal andlong-lived.
The Tepperberg Winery in Israelhas a single varietal, carignan
(19:53):
.
That's powerful and bold.
Carignan that's powerful andbold.
Hedgie Winery in Californiaproduces a small-lot,
natural-style Carignan that'schillable, complex, with minimal
sulfites.
Capsanus in Spain offers somefantastic blends from Cantalonia
that include an old-vineCarignan In the main natofa of
(20:18):
Israel, while more focused onRhone varietals.
Keep your eyes open for a veryspecial carignan project they
have been working on.
So, whether it's bold or bramblylight or zippy, pink, flirty or
white and mysterious, carignanrefuses to be pigeonholed.
(20:42):
It is, without question, one ofthe most stylistically diverse
grapes in the kosher wine worldtoday.
So let's dive into the legends,turning points, controversies
and personal tales that shapethe perception and the legacy of
Carignan in both general andkosher wine worlds.
To be honest, though, winehistory can be dry if you let it
(21:07):
, but Carignan, carignan'shistory reads like a novel with
chapters of rebellion,redemption.
With chapters of rebellion,redemption, abandonment and,
most recently, an inspiringrenaissance.
Let's start with a rebellion,literally In 1907, in southern
(21:27):
France, the Languedoc isdrowning in wine, thanks to
Carignan and its high yields.
The market is saturated, priceshave collapsedire villages are
going bankrupt.
Angry growers take to thestreets.
Over 800,000 people gather inMontpellier in what becomes one
(21:49):
of Europe's largest peasantuprisings.
They chant risings.
They chant Viva la vin natural.
Long live natural wines.
They're fighting againstadulteration, overproduction and
government inaction.
This was a Carignan revolt,because Carignan was the grape
(22:10):
being overplanted, overcroppedand exploited.
And it didn't end quietly.
Dozens were killed in clasheswith the French military.
A few soldiers even defected tojoin the protesters.
This event changed Frenchagriculture forever and it
painted Carignan for decades asthe grape of conflict and chaos.
(22:34):
By the 1980s, the European Unionhad had enough of low-quality
overproduction.
They initiated a massiveWien-Pull scheme to reduce the
continent's wine surplus.
Carignan was public enemynumber one.
Over a span of years, tens ofthousands of acres were uprooted
(22:58):
, not because Carignan wasinherently bad, but because it
had become the scapegoat ofover-farming.
France alone reduced itsCarignan plantings by more than
60% between 1988 and 2000.
It was a culling, and muchheritage was lost.
(23:18):
It was a culling and muchheritage was lost, but
ironically, what survived?
The oldest, most stubborn vinesin remote hills would go on to
produce the finest Carignan winewe've ever seen.
Let's zoom in on Israel for amoment.
By the late 1990s, israeliwineries were chasing prestige.
(23:42):
Bordeaux varietals likeCabernet, sauvignon and Merlot
were all the rage.
Carignan was seen as primitive.
Farmers were offered incentivesto graft over or rip out
Carignan vines and replant noblegrapes.
Some winemakers caved, but notall.
In 2002, a young Asaf Paz laterof Vitkin Winery tasted fruit
(24:06):
from a forgotten Karanyanvineyard in Zichron.
Yaakov Bush trained and dryfarmed since the 1970s.
He saw something the marketdidn't Incredible potential.
Asaf became one of the first inIsrael to champion Carignan as
a varietal wine, showcasing itnot as a workhorse but as a
(24:30):
legitimate Mediterranean red.
Today his Vitkin Carignan isone of Israel's finest kosher
wines due to the power of visionand patience.
Here's a fun anecdote from awinery in California.
A winemaker pours a Carignan toa guest.
The guest swirls, sniffs andcurrently proclaims Mmm Syrah,
(24:56):
northern Rhone, maybe Mendocino?
The winemaker smiles Actuallyit's 100% Carignan.
70-year-old vines, dry-farmed.
The guest's jaw drops.
It's been Carignan's fate foryears Mistaken, misidentified
and underestimated.
(25:17):
But that misidentification isn'talways bad.
In fact, in the glass, carignanoften echoes Grenache, syrah
and even Barbera, depending onwhere and how it's grown.
It's the chameleon grape, amaster of disguise, Another myth
.
For decades, people assumedCarignan was the cousin of other
(25:41):
southern French grapes likeCinzal or Grenache, but in the
early 2000s, genetic mappingproved otherwise.
Carignan is not closely relatedto Grenache.
In fact, it has its own uniquelineage.
In fact, it has its own uniquelineage closer to obscure
(26:03):
Spanish varietals like Bhopaland Morastel.
And then there's Carignan Blanc, long thought to be a color
mutation of Red Carignan, but,as it turns out, it's a distinct
variety altogether.
This redefined how growerstreated it, not as a curiosity
but as something worthpreserving.
In 2019, a Carignan from Chilewas named one of Wine
(26:29):
Spectator's Top 100 Wines of theYear.
Think about that A grape oncedestined for obscurity now
celebrated on the world stage.
In Israel, wines likeTepperberg's single vintage
Carignan, wittgen'sMediterranean series and a
(26:52):
special Infora H Carignan fromAgour's boutique winery are
proving that this grape isn'tjust relevant.
It's essential to Israel'sunique terroir expression.
And here's a little secret Somewinemakers whisper that old
vine carignan, grown withrestraint, could one day be
Israel's answer to the top Rhonereds.
(27:15):
We're not there yet, but theidea is growing.
From revolts to rediscoveries,from exile to exaltation.
Karen Yon's story is one ofresistance, resilience and
rebirth.
And what could be more Jewishthan that?
All right, listeners, you'vestuck with me this far.
(27:39):
You know now that Carignan is agrape of grit, history and
extraordinary transformation.
But let's lighten the mood abit, because Carignan is also
full of surprises.
Here are some of the mostfascinating, quirky and
unexpected facts about Carignanthat even many wine lovers don't
(28:02):
know, and I promise a few ofthese will make you say wait
what, believe it or not.
For most of the 20th century,wine educators literally advised
against using Carignan forpremium wine.
But why for premium wine?
(28:23):
But why?
Because of its natural highacidity, elevated tannins and
its tendency to over-crop if notseverely pruned.
It was seen as a nightmare inthe winery.
But here's the irony those sameflaws are now considered
features when managed right.
Considered features whenmanaged right.
High acidity that's great forfood pairing.
And aging, firm tannins theyadd structure.
(28:45):
The lesson no grape isinherently flawed, only misused.
Here's one for the hipsters andminimalists.
Carignan is a darling of thenatural wine world.
Why, you ask?
Because it's often grownorganically or biodynamically.
It's already present in allvine bush plantings which don't
(29:09):
require trellising.
It's naturallydisease-resistant, so it needs
fewer chemical interventions andproduces wild, energetic wines
with punchy acidity and vibrantaromatics.
If you've ever picked up afunky bottle with a hand-drawn
label from Spain, chile orCalifornia, there's a decent
(29:31):
chance you were sipping Carignanand didn't even know it.
Carignan was also once asparkling wine.
Yes, you heard that right.
In parts of southern Franceduring the mid-1990s, winemakers
actually experimented withsparkling Carignan.
It was blended into cheap fizzyreds sort of a rustic poor
(29:54):
man's Lambrusco.
Sort of a rustic poor man'sLambrusco.
Most of those wines are nowextinct, but some innovative
producers are bringing the ideaback.
Imagine a Carignan petnat,fizzy, wild, herbal, with bright
(30:15):
red fruit and savory edges.
Someone in the kosher world,please make this happen.
By 1988, carignan covered over160,000 acres in France alone
more than all the vineyards inthe United States combined.
At the time it became known asthe grape of quantity, not
(30:35):
quality.
In fact, jokes circulated amongFrench winemakers that Carignan
would grow even in the cracksof the sidewalk.
That's how aggressive itsgrowth can be.
Today many of those vines havebeen pulled out, but the old
survivors are now among the mostprized heritage plots in Europe
(30:56):
.
Let's talk genetics.
Let's talk genetics.
Carignan's closest relative isa grape called the Mazuelo which
, plot twist, is actuallyanother name for Carignan itself
, in Rioja, spain.
But there's also a rare grapecalled Morastelle Bruchet, which
(31:20):
is a cross between Carignan andGraciano, grown in small
amounts in southern France.
It's darker, fruitier and evenmore obscure.
Basically, carignan hasextended family members lurking
in unexpected places.
You can chill Carignan, and youshould.
(31:41):
This one catches a lot ofpeople off guard.
Carignan is a red grape, yes,but in its lighter expressions,
especially when whole clusterfermented, is fantastic, with a
slight chill, not ice cold, butcool like a pinot or a borzellet
.
Why does it work?
(32:02):
Because its high acidity stayssharp and its red fruit notes
become juicier and its tanninssoften just enough for
refreshing sips.
So if you're drinking a lightkosher Carignan from Judea or
California, try it at 14C.
(32:22):
It's a game changer.
Here's another concept to blowyour mind.
Carignan has a stronger sense ofplace than almost any other
Mediterranean grape.
You can take geneticallyidentical Carignan cuttings and
plant them in Roussillon, france, and get savory and peppery
(32:45):
notes.
Or if you planted them in theMollet Valley in Chile, you
receive earthy and rustictasting notes.
In Sonoma, california, you getmore vibrance and floral notes.
And in Israel's coastal plain,herbal, spicy and mineral notes
stand out.
(33:05):
By changing your location, youget wildly different results.
That's terroir in action, andCarignan amplifies it.
And Carignan amplifies it.
It's like a talented actor,able to perform in any genre,
depending on the script.
(33:25):
Many Cote d'Orone wines containunlabeled Carignan.
This is a wine industry secret.
Carignan is not officiallysanctioned as a primary varietal
in many appellations, likeChateauneuf-du-Pape, for example
, but it is quietly permitted insmall quantities in other Rhone
(33:47):
blends.
So while your bottle label maylist Syrah, grenache, morvedre,
that peppery, smoky edge, thatunexpected tang, might just be
Carignan, whispering from theshadows.
Surprisingly, there are stillundiscovered old vine Carignan
(34:07):
vineyards in parts of northernSpain, rural Italy and even in
Israel.
There are abandoned andmisidentified old vineyards that
were once planted with Carignan, some of which are now being
rediscovered.
This is part of a globalmovement rescuing lost vineyards
(34:28):
and giving them new purpose.
Kosher winemakers could benefithugely from joining that
movement, identifying legacyvines, farming them cleanly and
showcasing Israel's agriculturalhistory through Carignan.
Another relatively unknown factis that Carignan might be the
(34:49):
perfect grape for climate change.
Let's close with this.
In an era of risingtemperatures, water scarcity and
unpredictable weather, carignanis stepping into the spotlight.
Why?
Because it thrives in heat,handles drought like a champ, is
resistant to mildew and rot,and matures with balanced sugars
(35:14):
and acidity, even in extremevintages.
In other words, it's a grapefor the future, especially in
warm regions like southernIsrael, california, chile and
Spain, where sustainability isno longer optional but essential
.
So while the wine world racesto adapt, carignan has already
(35:38):
been there, waiting and ready.
So we've traveled a long waywith Carignan today, from its
tangled origins in Aragon, spain, to the sun-soaked slopes of
Languedoc, to the dusty trainingvineyards of early Israel, to
the new generation of winemakersreclaiming its voice.
(36:00):
This grape has lived a thousandlives and through it all, one
thing becomes clear Carignan isnot just a grape, it's a symbol.
It's a symbol of resilience,for surviving decades of
overplanting economic pressureand global disdain and still
(36:21):
being here.
It's a symbol of transformation, for how a once-dismissed
varietal can become thefoundation of world-class wines.
And for us, especially in thekosher wine community, it's a
symbol of rediscovery.
We live in a moment wherekosher wine is no longer just
(36:43):
about ritual.
It's about quality, artistryand expression.
Karen Young shows us how agrape, like a people, can wander
, can be misunderstood, evenrejected, and still rise again,
stronger, prouder and morerooted in its truth.
(37:03):
That's not just a wine story,that's a Jewish story.
So what now?
What does this mean for you,the listener?
It means that the next timeyou're shopping for a kosher
wine, don't just reach for aCabernet or a Merlot.
Look for a bottle labeledCarignan.
It might be bold and structured, it might be light and juicy,
(37:26):
it might even be pink or whiteor sparkling, but it will never
be boring.
It might come from the upperGalilee or Pirat or a dry farm
vineyard in Sonoma, but whereverit's from, it tells a story and
by choosing it, you will becomepart of that story too.
(37:47):
Let's recap a few key pointsbefore we go.
Carignan is one of the oldestcultivated varietals in the
Mediterranean basin, likelydating back over a millennium.
It was once the most plantedgrape in France and the backbone
of Israel's early modern wineindustry.
It nearly disappeared due tooverproduction, but old vines
(38:11):
survived and now they areproducing some of the most
exciting wines in the Gozierworld.
It comes in many styles rich,rustic reds, fresh, chillable,
natural wines, elegant rosés andeven rare white expressions.
It's climate-resistant,terroir-expressive and perfectly
(38:35):
poised for the future ofsustainable, artisanal
winemaking.
In short.
Carignan is no longer theunderdog, it's the comeback kid.
So, as we close this episode ofThe Kosher Terroir, ask your
local wine shop if they carryCarignan Israeli, French,
California, Spanish, whatever.
Taste it.
I want to leave you with achallenge: Reimagine your wine
shelf.
Make room for somethingsurprising.
(38:57):
Think about where it came fromand then share it.
Share it with friends, withfamily and with your community,
because wine is meant to beshared and stories, especially
(39:18):
stories of redemption, deserveto be told.
If this episode inspired you,share it with someone curious
about wine.
Leave us a review on Spotify,Apple Podcasts or wherever
you're listening.
It helps our community to growand visit our website,
thekosherterroiscom, for winerecommendations, upcoming
(39:41):
tastings and bonus content,including a future Carignan
pairing guide.
And don't forget to subscribe,because we have some incredible
guests and grape spotlightscoming up.
In future episodes we'll betalking with winemakers,
sommeliers and thinkers who areshaping the future of kosher
(40:04):
wine, but for now, raise a glassto the rebels, to the survivors
, to the vines we almost lostand to the wines that we are
beginning to understand.
I'm Simon Jacob, and this hasbeen The Kosher Terroir, L'chaim
.
See you again next time.
This is Simon Jacob, again yourhost of today's episode of The
(40:39):
Kosher Terroir, I have apersonal request.
No matter where you are orwhere you live, please take a
moment to pray for our soldiers'safety and the safe and rapid
return of our hostages.
Please subscribe via yourpodcast provider to be informed
of our new episodes as they arereleased.
If you're new to The KosherTerroir, please check out our
(41:04):
many past episodes.
Welcome to The Kosher Terroir.
I'm Simon Jacob, your host forthis episode from Jerusalem.
Before we get started, I askthat, wherever you are, please
take a moment and pray for thesafety of our soldiers and the
safe return of all of ourhostages.
Welcome back, my friends, toThe Kosher Terroir, where wine
(00:32):
meets story and where everyglass uncorks a world of
heritage, struggle,craftsmanship and soul.
I'm your host, simon Jacob, andtoday we're going deep.
I'm your host, simon Jacob, andtoday we're going deep.
We're taking a journey not justthrough the terroir, not just
(00:53):
through the vineyard, butthrough time.
If you're driving in your car,please focus on the road ahead.
If you're home, sit back, relax, open a bottle of wonderful
kosher wine and listen.
In this episode is about one ofthe most misunderstood,
overlooked yet extraordinarilyresilient grapes in the wine
(01:15):
world Carignan, yes, carignana,or Sardinia.
Carignano or California asCarignane, and in Israel.
Well, we'll get to that.
This is the grape withthousands of faces, a thousand
(01:40):
homes and a past so complicated.
It could be a Netflix series.
It has been vilified andglorified, torn up and replanted
, blended into anonymity and,more recently, revived into
something majestic.
But what exactly is Carignan?
Where does it come from?
(02:02):
Why has it been both adored anddismissed across history, and
what role does it play in thefuture of kosher wines?
Today, we'll explore all ofthat and more.
We'll unearth Carignan'stangled roots in Spain and
France.
We'll explore how it helpedshape the agricultural identity
(02:28):
of Israel, particularly in theearly days of the Zionist
movement.
We'll talk about winemakers whoare giving Carignan a second
chance, or perhaps a fifth, andproducing wines of surprising
finesse and freshness.
You'll learn about both red andwhite Carignan yes, white and
about how this grape, once knownmostly for cheap jug wine, is
(02:50):
now making a bold, defiantreturn to quality and elegance.
We'll get into productionstyles Think rich, unstructured
Mediterranean reds.
Think spicy, herbaceous redsfrom ancient bush vines.
Think light, juicy, almostBeaujolais-style expressions.
Think Carignan Blanc.
(03:12):
Yes, that is a thing.
And maybe most importantly,we'll get personal.
This isn't just a grape.
This is a survivor, a comebackartist, a grape with something
to prove.
And if you're in the kosherwine world or looking to expand
(03:32):
your palate beyond Cabernet andMerlot, carignan might just
surprise you.
You're sipping something lightand chillable from the Judean
hills or a deep-rooting carignanfrom Sardinia.
This grape invites you torethink what wine can be.
So if you've ever thought agrape's past was boring, think
(03:57):
again.
And if you're someone whothinks kosher wine is stuck in
the past, get ready to have yourpreconceptions shaken, decanted
and poured into something trulyfresh.
Let's uncork the story ofCarignan the rebel, the worker,
the shapeshifter.
Let's find out why, in thismoment and in this
(04:21):
terroir-driven renaissance ofkosher wine, carignan matters.
But where does Carignan reallycome from, and how did it become
both a cornerstone ofagricultural identity and a
scapegoat of industrialoverproduction?
Let's dive into Carignan'sincredible story.
So where does the story ofCarignan really begin?
(04:44):
Carignan's incredible story.
So where does the story ofCarignan really begin?
Like most grapefeller idols, itsprecise origins are a little
fuzzy, wrapped in centuries offolklore, shifting borders and
vine migrations.
But most historians agreeCarignan likely hails from
northeastern Spain, particularlyin the region of Aragon, where
(05:07):
it was known as Cariana, boththe name of the grape and the
town.
Yes, this grape is so old andstoried.
It gave name to a place.
That's right.
Carignan did not get its namefrom the town.
The town got its name from thegrape.
That should tell you something.
From there, carignan slowlybegan to move across the
(05:31):
Mediterranean basin and whereverit went, it adapted Not just to
new climates, but to newreputations.
Let's fast forward to the 19thcentury, france, where
carignan's fate took a dramaticturn as europe recovered from
the devastation of the phylloxiaplague, which wiped out entire
(05:53):
vineyards, carignan offered ananswer.
It was vigorous, resilient,high yielding and adaptable to
the hot, arid conditions of theLanguedoc-Roussillon region of
southern France.
And so the French planted itEverywhere.
We're talking about hundreds ofthousands of hectares.
(06:16):
By the mid-20th century,carignan became France's most
planted grape.
Yes, the most planted grape,france's most planted grape.
Yes, the most planted grape,even more than Merlot or
Grenache, think about that.
(06:36):
But here's the rub With greatyields came mediocre wine,
because Carignan, left unchecked, can easily become a workhorse,
pumping out bulk wines that arerustic, overly tannic and
harshly acidic.
That's exactly what happened inLanguedoc.
Carignan was dumped intosupermarket blends, anonymous
table wines and the infamous VinOrdinaire.
In short, carignan's reputationsuffered.
(06:59):
But let's hit pause here andcross over to a different
Mediterranean country, israel.
Now, this part of the story isimportant, especially to
listeners of the Kosher Terwa,because Karen Yan played a
massive role in the rebirth ofJewish agriculture.
In the early 1880s, as part ofthe First Aliyah, jewish
(07:22):
immigrants began returning tothe land of Israel.
Many were inexperienced farmers, but they had a vision to till
the land, build communities andrevive ancient viticulture.
With the support of BaronEdmund de Rothschild, cuttings
from French vines were imported,among them carignan.
(07:43):
Carignan was planted throughoutthe coastal plain and lower
Galilee, especially in Zichron,yaakov, rishon, litzion and
Binyaminah.
Its resilience to heat, diseaseand inconsistent farming
practices made it ideal for thenascent wine industry of
(08:04):
Palestine under Ottoman and thenBritish rule.
By the 20th century, carignanwas the backbone of Israeli wine
.
But just like in France,quantity began to overtake
quality.
Carignan's versatility becameits curse.
For decades it was usedprimarily as sacramental wine,
(08:27):
sweet kiddish blends orentry-level reds.
But was the kosher wineindustry's silent partner,
always there but nevercelebrated.
But something shifted.
In the early 2000s, in bothIsrael and globally, winemakers
began to re-evaluate Carignan.
They looked at the old bushvines, often neglected but still
(08:52):
thriving.
They asked what if we farm thisgrape with care?
What if we lowered the yields?
What if we picked at the rightmoment, fermented naturally and
aged thoughtfully?
That question lit a fire.
Now some of the mostinteresting wines in the kosher
(09:12):
world and the natural wine worldare made from old vine carignan
.
In California, winemakers areproducing vibrant, chillable
reds from dry farmed vinesplanted as far back as the 1940s
.
In Sardinia there is anappellation built around this
(09:35):
grape with powerful, deeplysavory wines.
In Chile, especially in MallValley, carignan has found new
Tepperberg, and Asaf Pass fromWittgen are crafting some of the
(09:59):
country's most expressive andage-worthy Carignan base wines.
So what happened?
Why the turnaround?
It's simple, really.
Carignan is not a bad grape.
It's a misunderstood one.
Like Pinot Noir or Grenache, itdemands attention, it needs
(10:19):
care, and when it gets it, whenit's dry farmed, harvested at
the right time, vinified withskill, it can produce wines that
are stunningly complex.
In fact, carignan has gone froma maligned blending grape to a
darling of sommeliers and winegeeks around the world.
(10:42):
Think about that transformationFrom bulk jug wines in
post-France to sacred vineyardsin early Zionist farming towns,
to nuanced small productionbottles in the Judean hills and
Sonoma coast.
Carignan has been there throughit all.
It's been cheap, it's beennoble, it's been forgotten, it's
(11:06):
been revived and, like any goodcharacter in a redemption arc,
it's finally getting therecognition it deserves.
Let's explore the productionstyle of Carignan in depth.
We will cover red, white, roséand the nuanced stylistic
(11:28):
decisions winemakers make aroundthe world, with a special lens
towards kosher production.
So now that we know Carignan'scomplicated, globetrotting past,
let's talk about how it showsup in your glass today.
Because if there's one wordthat defines Carignan in the
(11:48):
modern era, it's versatility,and that's a massive shift from
its reputation in the 20thcentury, where it was seen
mostly as a mass productionblending grape.
But now Carignan is an artist'scanvas.
The range of styles isthrilling, from deep, structured
(12:10):
reds to light, almost etherealchillables and, yes, even whites
.
Ethereal chillables and, yes,even whites.
Let's start with the classicstyle.
Traditional Carignan is deep,dense and tannic.
Historically, carignan has beenmade into powerful, tannic,
structured reds, especially insouthern France and Spain and
(12:32):
parts of the Mediterranean basin.
These wines are often medium tofull-bodied, rich in black
cherry, dried herbs and bakingspice, with firm tannins and
often elevated acidity.
Now here's the catch Carignanis naturally high in acid and
(12:53):
tannins and its yields arevigorous.
If you don't manage it properly, you get harsh, overly tannic,
sour reds.
But when you do manage it right, when you reduce yields,
harvest at ideal rightnesses andallow for slow maturation, it
(13:13):
produces wines with intensecomplexity and longevity.
Think of the Carignons fromSardinia.
These are serious savory wines,aged in oak, with notes of
forest floor, iron and wildherbs.
Pair that with grilled lamb andyou've got poetry in a bottle.
(13:35):
In kosher winemaking, someIsraeli producers are exploring
this bold Mediterranean style.
Look to Wittgen Winery, whereAsaf Paz focuses on low-yield
Mediterranean reds with realstructure and personality.
To Tepperberg, where DonnyFriedenberg is crafting a single
varietal Carignan that balancesripeness with restraint.
(13:59):
Another face of Carignan couldbe called the Nouveau-styled,
and it's juicy, chillable, withlow intervention.
Natural winemakers are pickingCarignan early, using whole
(14:20):
cluster fermentation, minimaloak and producing lively, juicy
wines that almost feel like ahybrid between Bourget and Rhone
Reds.
These wines are bright, ruby incolor, flavored with cranberry,
sour cherry and crushed rosessour cherry and crushed roses
(14:41):
and medium bodied with juicy,almost crunchy acidity.
Serve them chilled and you'rein for a real treat.
These wines are approachable,food friendly and deeply
expressive of terroir.
It's an exciting style and it'scoming to israel too.
Agor, a boutique producer inthe Judean Hills, along with
other producers in the Galilee,are experimenting with
(15:04):
early-picked carignan, wildyeast fermentations and amphora
aging.
They're producing kosher winesmeant for sunshine and casual
drinking.
This is the future of chillablered wines in Israel.
But let's talk about old vinecarignons, ancient bush vines
(15:25):
and terroir.
Here is where things getserious.
Some of the world's mostcaptivating carignon wines come
from old bush vines, often 50 to100 plus years old, growing in
dry farmed vineyards with poorsoil.
Old vines produce less fruit,but that fruit has more
(15:47):
intensity, lower sugar andphenolic depth.
The resulting wines are earthy,complex and haunting, with
savory undertones like blackolive, dried fig, pencil
shavings, and these are oftenfound with an age-worthy core of
restrained alcohol.
(16:07):
In Chile, the Vigno project isdedicated to preserving old vine
carignons.
These wines are soulful,minimal intervention and packed
with terroir.
In Israel, though, we don'thave Vignot-style associations
yet, we do have vines planted inthe 1970s and 80s, and some are
(16:33):
being rediscovered.
Look out especially for singlevineyard expressions coming from
the Reconati vineyard in theUpper Galilee.
Now let's shift gears.
Did you know there's a whiteCarignan?
That's right.
Carignan Blanc is a real,genetically distinct varietal.
It's extremely rare, primarilyfound in Roussillon and only
(17:00):
cultivated by a handful ofproducers.
This wine is textural, lightlyaromatic and often reminiscent
of white Rhone varietals.
They have notes of white peach,almond, blossom and salinity,
and are sometimes fermented inneutral oak or in forest reserve
mouthfeel.
(17:21):
This isn't a workhorse grape,it's a unicorn In kosher
winemaking.
It hasn't yet found traction,but watch this space.
Israel's interest in whiteMediterranean varietals is
growing and it's only a matterof time before someone plants or
imports Carignan Blanc.
(17:42):
Now here's a twist.
Some producers, in both naturaland kosher scenes, are making
Blanc de Noir styles of redCarignan grapes.
A South Pasen Witkin wineryjust introduced such a version,
which is particularlyspectacular.
By gently pressing red Carignanand separating the juice from
(18:07):
the skins quickly, you get awhite or pale pink wine from red
grapes, often structured like awhite but with more body and
depth.
These wines are crisp andmineral driven, while often
lightly oxidative and fantasticwith spicy Mediterranean food or
(18:27):
aged cheeses.
It's not yet mainstream, but inboutique natural cellars in
both California and Cantalonathis style is making waves and
the kosher version is picking upa clear fan base in the Tel
Aviv wine scene.
And of course, carignan Rosé isa thing of beauty.
(18:50):
Artfully described as summer ina glass, it offers tart red
fruit along with streak ofearthy minerality and often a
dry finish that pairsbeautifully with spicy food.
In Provence it's used in blends, but in California some
(19:10):
winemakers like producingsingle-varietal Carignan rosés
Zippy, clean and perfect forchilled summer sipping.
In Israel, rosé is trendingupward, and a Carignan rosé with
Israeli spices.
Olive oil-heavy cuisine is anatural fit.
(19:32):
Let's take a quick world tour ofsome of the notable kosher
carignan producers and styles.
Vitkin Winery in Israel has acarignan-based Mediterranean red
that's earthy, herbal andlong-lived.
The Tepperberg Winery in Israelhas a single varietal, carignan
(19:53):
.
That's powerful and bold.
Carignan that's powerful andbold.
Hedgie Winery in Californiaproduces a small-lot,
natural-style Carignan that'schillable, complex, with minimal
sulfites.
Capsanus in Spain offers somefantastic blends from Cantalonia
that include an old-vineCarignan In the main natofa of
(20:18):
Israel, while more focused onRhone varietals.
Keep your eyes open for a veryspecial carignan project they
have been working on.
So, whether it's bold or bramblylight or zippy, pink, flirty or
white and mysterious, carignanrefuses to be pigeonholed.
(20:42):
It is, without question, one ofthe most stylistically diverse
grapes in the kosher wine worldtoday.
So let's dive into the legends,turning points, controversies
and personal tales that shapethe perception and the legacy of
Carignan in both general andkosher wine worlds.
To be honest, though, winehistory can be dry if you let it
(21:07):
, but Carignan, carignan'shistory reads like a novel with
chapters of rebellion,redemption.
With chapters of rebellion,redemption, abandonment and,
most recently, an inspiringrenaissance.
Let's start with a rebellion,literally In 1907, in southern
(21:27):
France, the Languedoc isdrowning in wine, thanks to
Carignan and its high yields.
The market is saturated, priceshave collapsedire villages are
going bankrupt.
Angry growers take to thestreets.
Over 800,000 people gather inMontpellier in what becomes one
(21:49):
of Europe's largest peasantuprisings.
They chant risings.
They chant Viva la vin natural.
Long live natural wines.
They're fighting againstadulteration, overproduction and
government inaction.
This was a Carignan revolt,because Carignan was the grape
(22:10):
being overplanted, overcroppedand exploited.
And it didn't end quietly.
Dozens were killed in clasheswith the French military.
A few soldiers even defected tojoin the protesters.
This event changed Frenchagriculture forever and it
painted Carignan for decades asthe grape of conflict and chaos.
(22:34):
By the 1980s, the European Unionhad had enough of low-quality
overproduction.
They initiated a massiveWien-Pull scheme to reduce the
continent's wine surplus.
Carignan was public enemynumber one.
Over a span of years, tens ofthousands of acres were uprooted
(22:58):
, not because Carignan wasinherently bad, but because it
had become the scapegoat ofover-farming.
France alone reduced itsCarignan plantings by more than
60% between 1988 and 2000.
It was a culling, and muchheritage was lost.
(23:18):
It was a culling and muchheritage was lost, but
ironically, what survived?
The oldest, most stubborn vinesin remote hills would go on to
produce the finest Carignan winewe've ever seen.
Let's zoom in on Israel for amoment.
By the late 1990s, israeliwineries were chasing prestige.
(23:42):
Bordeaux varietals likeCabernet, sauvignon and Merlot
were all the rage.
Carignan was seen as primitive.
Farmers were offered incentivesto graft over or rip out
Carignan vines and replant noblegrapes.
Some winemakers caved, but notall.
In 2002, a young Asaf Paz laterof Vitkin Winery tasted fruit
(24:06):
from a forgotten Karanyanvineyard in Zichron.
Yaakov Bush trained and dryfarmed since the 1970s.
He saw something the marketdidn't Incredible potential.
Asaf became one of the first inIsrael to champion Carignan as
a varietal wine, showcasing itnot as a workhorse but as a
(24:30):
legitimate Mediterranean red.
Today his Vitkin Carignan isone of Israel's finest kosher
wines due to the power of visionand patience.
Here's a fun anecdote from awinery in California.
A winemaker pours a Carignan toa guest.
The guest swirls, sniffs andcurrently proclaims Mmm Syrah,
(24:56):
northern Rhone, maybe Mendocino?
The winemaker smiles Actuallyit's 100% Carignan.
70-year-old vines, dry-farmed.
The guest's jaw drops.
It's been Carignan's fate foryears Mistaken, misidentified
and underestimated.
(25:17):
But that misidentification isn'talways bad.
In fact, in the glass, carignanoften echoes Grenache, syrah
and even Barbera, depending onwhere and how it's grown.
It's the chameleon grape, amaster of disguise, Another myth
.
For decades, people assumedCarignan was the cousin of other
(25:41):
southern French grapes likeCinzal or Grenache, but in the
early 2000s, genetic mappingproved otherwise.
Carignan is not closely relatedto Grenache.
In fact, it has its own uniquelineage.
In fact, it has its own uniquelineage closer to obscure
(26:03):
Spanish varietals like Bhopaland Morastel.
And then there's Carignan Blanc, long thought to be a color
mutation of Red Carignan, but,as it turns out, it's a distinct
variety altogether.
This redefined how growerstreated it, not as a curiosity
but as something worthpreserving.
In 2019, a Carignan from Chilewas named one of Wine
(26:29):
Spectator's Top 100 Wines of theYear.
Think about that A grape oncedestined for obscurity now
celebrated on the world stage.
In Israel, wines likeTepperberg's single vintage
Carignan, wittgen'sMediterranean series and a
(26:52):
special Infora H Carignan fromAgour's boutique winery are
proving that this grape isn'tjust relevant.
It's essential to Israel'sunique terroir expression.
And here's a little secret Somewinemakers whisper that old
vine carignan, grown withrestraint, could one day be
Israel's answer to the top Rhonereds.
(27:15):
We're not there yet, but theidea is growing.
From revolts to rediscoveries,from exile to exaltation.
Karen Yon's story is one ofresistance, resilience and
rebirth.
And what could be more Jewishthan that?
All right, listeners, you'vestuck with me this far.
(27:39):
You know now that Carignan is agrape of grit, history and
extraordinary transformation.
But let's lighten the mood abit, because Carignan is also
full of surprises.
Here are some of the mostfascinating, quirky and
unexpected facts about Carignanthat even many wine lovers don't
(28:02):
know, and I promise a few ofthese will make you say wait
what, believe it or not.
For most of the 20th century,wine educators literally advised
against using Carignan forpremium wine.
But why for premium wine?
(28:23):
But why?
Because of its natural highacidity, elevated tannins and
its tendency to over-crop if notseverely pruned.
It was seen as a nightmare inthe winery.
But here's the irony those sameflaws are now considered
features when managed right.
Considered features whenmanaged right.
High acidity that's great forfood pairing.
And aging, firm tannins theyadd structure.
(28:45):
The lesson no grape isinherently flawed, only misused.
Here's one for the hipsters andminimalists.
Carignan is a darling of thenatural wine world.
Why, you ask?
Because it's often grownorganically or biodynamically.
It's already present in allvine bush plantings which don't
(29:09):
require trellising.
It's naturallydisease-resistant, so it needs
fewer chemical interventions andproduces wild, energetic wines
with punchy acidity and vibrantaromatics.
If you've ever picked up afunky bottle with a hand-drawn
label from Spain, chile orCalifornia, there's a decent
(29:31):
chance you were sipping Carignanand didn't even know it.
Carignan was also once asparkling wine.
Yes, you heard that right.
In parts of southern Franceduring the mid-1990s, winemakers
actually experimented withsparkling Carignan.
It was blended into cheap fizzyreds sort of a rustic poor
(29:54):
man's Lambrusco.
Sort of a rustic poor man'sLambrusco.
Most of those wines are nowextinct, but some innovative
producers are bringing the ideaback.
Imagine a Carignan petnat,fizzy, wild, herbal, with bright
(30:15):
red fruit and savory edges.
Someone in the kosher world,please make this happen.
By 1988, carignan covered over160,000 acres in France alone
more than all the vineyards inthe United States combined.
At the time it became known asthe grape of quantity, not
(30:35):
quality.
In fact, jokes circulated amongFrench winemakers that Carignan
would grow even in the cracksof the sidewalk.
That's how aggressive itsgrowth can be.
Today many of those vines havebeen pulled out, but the old
survivors are now among the mostprized heritage plots in Europe
(30:56):
.
Let's talk genetics.
Let's talk genetics.
Carignan's closest relative isa grape called the Mazuelo which
, plot twist, is actuallyanother name for Carignan itself
, in Rioja, spain.
But there's also a rare grapecalled Morastelle Bruchet, which
(31:20):
is a cross between Carignan andGraciano, grown in small
amounts in southern France.
It's darker, fruitier and evenmore obscure.
Basically, carignan hasextended family members lurking
in unexpected places.
You can chill Carignan, and youshould.
(31:41):
This one catches a lot ofpeople off guard.
Carignan is a red grape, yes,but in its lighter expressions,
especially when whole clusterfermented, is fantastic, with a
slight chill, not ice cold, butcool like a pinot or a borzellet
.
Why does it work?
(32:02):
Because its high acidity stayssharp and its red fruit notes
become juicier and its tanninssoften just enough for
refreshing sips.
So if you're drinking a lightkosher Carignan from Judea or
California, try it at 14C.
(32:22):
It's a game changer.
Here's another concept to blowyour mind.
Carignan has a stronger sense ofplace than almost any other
Mediterranean grape.
You can take geneticallyidentical Carignan cuttings and
plant them in Roussillon, france, and get savory and peppery
(32:45):
notes.
Or if you planted them in theMollet Valley in Chile, you
receive earthy and rustictasting notes.
In Sonoma, california, you getmore vibrance and floral notes.
And in Israel's coastal plain,herbal, spicy and mineral notes
stand out.
(33:05):
By changing your location, youget wildly different results.
That's terroir in action, andCarignan amplifies it.
And Carignan amplifies it.
It's like a talented actor,able to perform in any genre,
depending on the script.
(33:25):
Many Cote d'Orone wines containunlabeled Carignan.
This is a wine industry secret.
Carignan is not officiallysanctioned as a primary varietal
in many appellations, likeChateauneuf-du-Pape, for example
, but it is quietly permitted insmall quantities in other Rhone
(33:47):
blends.
So while your bottle label maylist Syrah, grenache, morvedre,
that peppery, smoky edge, thatunexpected tang, might just be
Carignan, whispering from theshadows.
Surprisingly, there are stillundiscovered old vine Carignan
(34:07):
vineyards in parts of northernSpain, rural Italy and even in
Israel.
There are abandoned andmisidentified old vineyards that
were once planted with Carignan, some of which are now being
rediscovered.
This is part of a globalmovement rescuing lost vineyards
(34:28):
and giving them new purpose.
Kosher winemakers could benefithugely from joining that
movement, identifying legacyvines, farming them cleanly and
showcasing Israel's agriculturalhistory through Carignan.
Another relatively unknown factis that Carignan might be the
(34:49):
perfect grape for climate change.
Let's close with this.
In an era of risingtemperatures, water scarcity and
unpredictable weather, carignanis stepping into the spotlight.
Why?
Because it thrives in heat,handles drought like a champ, is
resistant to mildew and rot,and matures with balanced sugars
(35:14):
and acidity, even in extremevintages.
In other words, it's a grapefor the future, especially in
warm regions like southernIsrael, california, chile and
Spain, where sustainability isno longer optional but essential
.
So while the wine world racesto adapt, carignan has already
(35:38):
been there, waiting and ready.
So we've traveled a long waywith Carignan today, from its
tangled origins in Aragon, spain, to the sun-soaked slopes of
Languedoc, to the dusty trainingvineyards of early Israel, to
the new generation of winemakersreclaiming its voice.
(36:00):
This grape has lived a thousandlives and through it all, one
thing becomes clear Carignan isnot just a grape, it's a symbol.
It's a symbol of resilience,for surviving decades of
overplanting economic pressureand global disdain and still
(36:21):
being here.
It's a symbol of transformation, for how a once-dismissed
varietal can become thefoundation of world-class wines.
And for us, especially in thekosher wine community, it's a
symbol of rediscovery.
We live in a moment wherekosher wine is no longer just
(36:43):
about ritual.
It's about quality, artistryand expression.
Karen Young shows us how agrape, like a people, can wander
, can be misunderstood, evenrejected, and still rise again,
stronger, prouder and morerooted in its truth.
(37:03):
That's not just a wine story,that's a Jewish story.
So what now?
What does this mean for you,the listener?
It means that the next timeyou're shopping for a kosher
wine, don't just reach for aCabernet or a Merlot.
Look for a bottle labeledCarignan.
It might be bold and structured, it might be light and juicy,
(37:26):
it might even be pink or whiteor sparkling, but it will never
be boring.
It might come from the upperGalilee or Pirat or a dry farm
vineyard in Sonoma, but whereverit's from, it tells a story and
by choosing it, you will becomepart of that story too.
(37:47):
Let's recap a few key pointsbefore we go.
Carignan is one of the oldestcultivated varietals in the
Mediterranean basin, likelydating back over a millennium.
It was once the most plantedgrape in France and the backbone
of Israel's early modern wineindustry.
It nearly disappeared due tooverproduction, but old vines
(38:11):
survived and now they areproducing some of the most
exciting wines in the Gozierworld.
It comes in many styles rich,rustic reds, fresh, chillable,
natural wines, elegant rosés andeven rare white expressions.
It's climate-resistant,terroir-expressive and perfectly
(38:35):
poised for the future ofsustainable, artisanal
winemaking.
In short.
Carignan is no longer theunderdog, it's the comeback kid.
So, as we close this episode ofThe Kosher Terroir, ask your
local wine shop if they carryCarignan Israeli, French,
California, Spanish, whatever.
Taste it.
I want to leave you with achallenge: Reimagine your wine
shelf.
Make room for somethingsurprising.
(38:57):
Think about where it came fromand then share it.
Share it with friends, withfamily and with your community,
because wine is meant to beshared and stories, especially
(39:18):
stories of redemption, deserveto be told.
If this episode inspired you,share it with someone curious
about wine.
Leave us a review on Spotify,Apple Podcasts or wherever
you're listening.
It helps our community to growand visit our website,
thekosherterroiscom, for winerecommendations, upcoming
(39:41):
tastings and bonus content,including a future Carignan
pairing guide.
And don't forget to subscribe,because we have some incredible
guests and grape spotlightscoming up.
In future episodes we'll betalking with winemakers,
sommeliers and thinkers who areshaping the future of kosher
(40:04):
wine, but for now, raise a glassto the rebels, to the survivors
, to the vines we almost lostand to the wines that we are
beginning to understand.
I'm Simon Jacob, and this hasbeen The Kosher Terroir, L'chaim
.
See you again next time.
This is Simon Jacob, again yourhost of today's episode of The
(40:39):
Kosher Terroir, I have apersonal request.
No matter where you are orwhere you live, please take a
moment to pray for our soldiers'safety and the safe and rapid
return of our hostages.
Please subscribe via yourpodcast provider to be informed
of our new episodes as they arereleased.
If you're new to The KosherTerroir, please check out our
(41:04):
many past episodes.
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