August 18, 2025 • 27 mins
Vivienne Westwood transformed from a primary school teacher to punk fashion pioneer, creating iconic designs that challenged societal norms while drawing inspiration from historical costumes and art. Her journey from outsider to Dame showcases how she revolutionized fashion through provocative designs and political activism, leaving an indelible mark on the industry.
Not me providing a bibliography, find my sources used here : Vivienne Westwood Links
Gabrielle’s social media links: LINK
Mark as Played
Transcript
Episode Transcript
Available transcripts are automatically generated. Complete accuracy is not guaranteed.
Speaker 1 (00:18):
Hi, divas, and welcome to MagnaBeak, your
favorite podcast for learningabout fashion's most influential
women.
Today we talk about VivianWestwood.
Um, I will be so for real.
Before researching for thisepisode, I can't say that I knew
much of anything about VivianWestwood, but, but, but, but.
(00:39):
I have grown so fond of her.
I think she's the coolest.
I want to be her.
So I've gained a lot of respectfor this woman right here and I
will take great care of her.
While we talk about her, andlet's just jump into it.
So, as a person, vivianWestwood can be described as a
(01:01):
leader of the modern punkmovement, somebody who craves
knowledge so much that herdesigns emulate and take spins
on classic art history and makethem into modern marvels, taking
influence from varying sectorsto create some of her most
influential collections, iePirates, the Minirenny and
(01:22):
Anglomania.
Let's take a closer look on howVivian conquered the fashion
scene as a once-outsider,becoming one of the most
well-renowned artists of themodern fashion age.
Born April 8, 1941, an Ariesqueen in Glossop, derbyshire,
england, her parents, gordon andDora Schweier, lived a modest
(01:45):
life, with her father beingemployed as a storekeeper in an
aircraft factory.
They resided in Derbyshireuntil 1958, when the family
moved to Harrow, london.
It was here that Vivian wasfirst introduced to the world of
the arts.
She took a jewelry making andsilversmith course at Harrow Art
School, though this endeavorwas short-lived, as after the
(02:07):
first term she quit, citing thatshe, a working class girl,
could not understand how shecould possibly make a living in
the arts.
Luckily, we come to know thatwhere there is a will, there is
a way.
Vivian got it done.
Instead of initially pursuingher passion for design and art,
she takes up a job in a factorywhile she studies to be a
(02:28):
teacher.
It was at this factory job thatshe met her husband-to-be,
derek Westwood, and once shesuccessfully fulfills her
education, vivian becomes aprimary school teacher, while on
the side creating her ownjewelry and maintaining a stall
at the Portobello Road Market.
The Westwoods wed on July 21,1962.
(02:49):
Vivian made her own gown.
Go ahead and take a note ofthis for later and later.
In 1963, their family expandedwith the welcoming of their son,
benjamin Westwood.
Their family expanded with thewelcoming of their son, benjamin
Westwood.
Vivian seemed content with herquiet, slow suburban life.
She had her husband, her kid,her career, but was that enough
(03:11):
to keep her satisfied?
Unfortunately, I don't believeit to be in this situation.
In 1965, vivian Westwood metMalcolm McLaren, a publicist,
and this was the beginning ofthe end of her marriage with
Derek Westwood.
The two ended things and Vivianmoved in with McLaren.
She maintains that while theymet before divorcing Derek,
(03:33):
there was not any romanticoverlap, citing that the divorce
is a cause of not feeling asthough she could reach her
fullest potential.
While teaching, vivianmaintained an interest in
fashion and design, seeking outknowledge wherever possible.
This created a collaborativeopportunity with Malcolm McLaren
, allowing Vivian to break intoa new exciting career in fashion
(03:55):
.
So now we are moving into whatI like to call her McLaren era,
which was pivotal to Vivianfinding her footing in the
fashion industry and layingroots to catapult her into icon
status.
This era starts in 1965, whenWestwood and McLaren meet and
start pursuing a career infashion together.
(04:16):
Westwood kept her status as aschoolteacher but on the side,
created designs with McLaren todress a punk band that McLaren
managed named Sex Pistols.
Westwood and McLaren would moveto Clapham and birth their son,
joseph Corey, in 1967.
In 1971, westwood left teachingand the two of them opened a
(04:37):
boutique to fill with and selldesigns that had been seen worn
by the band.
The boutique was called Let itRock and it was located at 430
Kings Road in Chelsea, london.
The designs produced here werebased on opposition against the
traditional British standard ofmorality.
It defies polite society andexpresses the wearer's deviation
(05:00):
from society.
This boutique very quicklybecame a hub for the punk
movement.
The designs towed the line ofcompletely unhinged and
grotesque to hardcore and lovedby those without alternative
views.
With provocative prints andslogans.
The designs got them in legaltrouble, being prosecuted under
(05:21):
the 1959 Obscene PublicationsAct.
This act essentially makes itan offense to produce anything
deemed obscene for publicdisplay, though making
exceptions for art and literarypurposes.
But after facing prosecution,the duo started making more
t-shirts with even more obscenedesigns.
(05:44):
I do believe that this inspiredthe creation of the swastika
shirt, which aimed at sending amessage about denouncing the
system and dictatorships, moreso than endorsing the actual
Nazi regime.
The anarchy shirt was releasedin 1977, displaying a swastika
(06:04):
on the front, laid over aninverted photo of Christ on the
crucifix, also in conjunction toQueen Elizabeth II, on a stamp
with the words in all capsDESTROY above the imagery.
Now I want to hear yourthoughts on that.
Let's hear it.
(06:26):
I'm unsure of my thoughts.
I see how she got there.
I do, however, I feeluncomfortable about the
execution.
To speak my God-given truth,yeah, let me know your thoughts
on that.
Throughout the 70s, westwoodcontinued to master up unique
pieces to push forward the punkmovement.
For example, she merged theleather jackets worn by bikers
(06:50):
with classic pornographicimagery and because why not?
Traditional Scottish tartansthink plaid skirt textiles as a
tartan, and this produced whatshe dubbed the DIY aesthetic
that raged through the punkmovement punk community.
They loved to DIY their owngarments.
(07:11):
The boutique saw manyrebrandings and many name
changes five to be exact allmatching the aesthetics and
titles of their varyingcollections.
So a few more fun facts aboutthe shop itself before moving on
to the collaborativecollections with the pair.
With the shop changing names somany times, it's kind of hard
(07:32):
to keep track of which namebelongs to which era.
The shop originated as Let it itrock, which sold vintage 1950s
clothing.
They changed their name to toofast to live, too young to die,
in 1972 to cater toward bikercore.
They then rebranded in 1974 tosex and use the slogan rubber
(07:55):
wear for the office.
Sure.
Then they reopened to cater topunk rock and the sex pistols.
Transforming fetishism intofashion under the name
Seditionaries.
Lastly, maintaining the nameWorld's End A fun fact about the
shop and I know I've said funfact twice in this paragraph,
(08:16):
but these are fun and factual.
So a fun fact about the shop.
The basement used to be a localrestaurant, but World's End was
so successful that theyeventually purchased the space
to expand the stockroom.
Today the space remainsaesthetically as it was 40 years
ago, though it was restored in2017.
So the two collaborated on fivecollections together.
(08:39):
Let's go through them.
The Pirates Collection was thefirst collaborative collection
made by the pair and shown tothe media and international
buyers.
Released for the fall-winter1981 season, the Pirates Show
was inspired by pieces sold attheir boutique.
It was praised for itsliberation from the constrictive
(09:00):
silhouettes of the 70s.
It was looser, more loose.
I guess the collection wasinspired by an 18th century
engraving of a pirate withbreech-style buccaneered
trousers and a matching jacket.
This collection highlighted herattention to technique.
While maintaining classictechnique.
The designs were also partlyinspired by African textile
(09:22):
patterns, especially the piratetrousers, which included a
baggier rear which contrastedthe hippie tight-ass style of
the time.
This collection featured manyhistoric nods to the 18th and
19th century dress, britishhistory and textiles using
(09:42):
African prints.
The runway was also accompaniedby rap and ethnic music, which
was considered unique for thetime.
Soon after Pirates debuted,westwood and McLaren ended their
personal relationship but wouldcontinue to collaborate for an
additional five years, workingon the following collections
together Savage in 1982, whichfeatured inspiration from
(10:07):
indigenous peoples,incorporating sheepskin and
shell detailing.
Punkature in the fall of 1982,which featured distressed or
recycled garments in pre-washedmaterials, which often the look
was being referred to ashillbilly.
Then we have the BuffaloCollection in fall winter of
(10:27):
1982-83, and it gained its namefrom Malcolm's 1983 track called
Buffalo Gals and was integralin Westwood's early work.
The collection itself aimed atblending streetwear with
quote-unquote multiculturalsensibility, and this was taken
from the A to Z guide of VivianWestwood.
(10:48):
The collection features a lotof layering and earth tones and
can even be seen by PharrellWilliams', dare I say, most
iconic look of wearing themountain hat to the 2014 Grammys
.
It is a comically large hat.
I reckon you all look it up.
Lastly, the Witches' Collectionof 1983, their final
(11:10):
collaborative masterpiece.
This collection's mostnoteworthy feature is the
interpretation of the men'strench.
Westwood aimed for a unisexmasculine style with exaggerated
cuts similar to those worn byofficers in the First World War.
Post-mclaren partnership,westwood showed once more for
(11:31):
the world's end label entitledClint Eastwood in late 1984.
The Vivian Westwood brandcontinues to open up four more
shops throughout London andeventually throughout the world,
with products varying inaesthetics.
Some merchandise promotedpolitical causes that Westwood
felt called to promote, ieclimate change and civil rights
(11:53):
groups.
So now that the McLaren era isover, vivienne Westwood's empire
continued and prospered.
Post-entanglement, her fashionmuses moved less in the
direction of streetwear andfound more fulfillment indulging
in the past.
Her Harris Tweed collectionreflects this perfectly.
This collection celebratestraditional English tailoring.
(12:15):
Westwood began prioritizingrefinement and education of a
piece rather than youthfulrebellion.
It was due to this shift thatVogue began to feature her work
more regularly throughout thelate 80s.
Westwood's work throughout the80s and 90s reigned supreme in
her resume.
She appropriates thearistocratic establishment,
(12:39):
status and elitism in atheatrical show.
She continues to draw on thistheme of heritage and culture
throughout her work.
Let's talk about my favoritecollection from hers and it's
crazy because it is like thefirst independent collection the
Mini Cranny of 1986, astatement piece meant to
(13:00):
juxtapose the traditions of 18thcentury English women.
This debut marked a turningpoint in the brand and
Westwood's career.
For the next 20 years, shewould continue to create
collections that draw fromclassical sources, such as
paintings from Francois Boucherand Jean-Honoré Fragonard.
(13:24):
Sorry, I didn't google that, butthis era of Vivian's work
included features like the 19thcentury bustle into dresses and
tartan miniskirts.
The mini crinny garment itselfis a reimagining of the
Victorian crinoline, fusing theconcept with the modern
miniskirt.
With its mini-length, bouffant,large, outrageous puffball
(13:48):
skirt, it's meant to interweavethe two conflicting ideals, with
the crinoline representing therestriction of women's clothing
of the past and the liberationof women and women's clothing in
the modern day.
With the miniskirt, it's one ofher most popular reworkings,
with arguably her most popularbeing the borrowing of the
(14:09):
corset and turning it intodaywear, slash outerwear,
leaning into the fetishism andfetish wear trend that she
created in the 70s.
When speaking on the corset,westwood is quoted saying for me
, the focus of a woman is thewaist, and that was taken from
also the A to Z guide toVivienne Westwood.
He felt it as reappropriatingthe cinched waist silhouette to
(14:33):
add a playful effect,effectively transforming the
historically restrictive tool ofthe male gaze and validation
into a garment that exudesfemale sexuality.
So, in short, vivian Westwoodis to blame for the corset
epidemic of late 2010s.
If you were a teen or early 20sgal, in like 2017 to from 2017,
(15:00):
2016, 2017 to like now basically, but I would say the peak, like
2019 I just felt like the maingarment to wear out and about to
look slay was a corset, and Inever fell for the propaganda,
although it looks really cooland I would love a corset.
(15:20):
And I never fell for thepropaganda, although it looks
really cool and I would love acorset.
I just it's not my vibe.
But anyway, thank you, vivianWestwood, for the trends.
Appreciate it.
Okay, let's briefly go back tothe Harris Twee collection.
I know we mentioned it threeminutes ago, but we're back.
The Harris-Dewey Collection of1987.
(15:42):
This collection was inspired bythe Tattler girls and the
parodying of the upper class.
This period is marked as thepagan era, with the slogan being
Britain must go pagan.
In 1989, vivienne Westwoodappeared on the Condé Nast-owned
magazine Tatler dressed as thethen Prime Minister, margaret
(16:05):
Thatcher.
This collection kickstarted herlong-standing relationship with
the Scottish Harris Tweed brandand is often credited for
reviving the use of tweed ingarments.
You'll also notice that duringthis collection, Vivienne
Westwood's brand adopted the useof the orb with rings around it
that resemble Saturn into theirbrand identity.
(16:27):
The use of this orb sparkedcontroversy as it does closely
resemble that of the HarrisTweed Authority symbol.
But the HTA or Harris TweedAuthority came out
post-Westwood's death to clarifythat, while the symbol is
similar and Westwood did leaninto the authority for
(16:49):
inspiration, there is no badblood between the brand and they
fully endorse the use.
I did add the word fully bymyself, so maybe they don't
fully endorse the use, but theyendorse the use.
Let's talk about the 90s.
The 90s were busy for our dearMiss Westwood.
1990 and 1991, she received theaward for Fashion Designer of
(17:09):
the Year from the BritishFashion Council.
In 92, vivienne Westwood wasawarded by the Queen Elizabeth
the Most Excellent Order of theBritish Empire, or OBE.
She dared to be bold once more,because why wouldn't she?
And she showed up to this eventpantyless, which was a big
(17:32):
scandal because pantyless nextto the Queen.
Scandal because pantyless nextto the queen.
In 92 she capitalized on herknack for making wedding dresses
this is the callback I wastalking about by launching her
wedding gown line which, ifyou're up to speed in pop
culture, charlie xcx justmarried george from the 1975 and
vivian was to address and shelooked so iconic it was, I think
(17:56):
, like at a courthouse.
Very slay, very slay, mama.
I love a courthouse wedding.
I had a courthouse wedding,except in New York instead of
our hometown, and that's so slaytoo.
I'll say it.
Where was I?
Oh yes, 1992 through 1993 sawthe release of the Pouty and Orb
(18:18):
watches.
Same year she also opened a newboutique on Conduit Street and
additionally, in 1993, she wasappointed as a professor of
fashion at the BerlinerHochschul-de-Kunst-School Social
de Kunz Day School I'm so sorryabout.
(18:39):
1993 was a busy year for her.
Westwood married once more toher assistant, andrea
Cron-Taylor, whom she remainedmarried to until her death in
December 2022.
The two met while Westwood wasteaching at the Vienna School of
Applied Arts.
Once married, he remained asilent partner of the label and
(19:00):
is now the creative director ofthe brand, creating some really
beautiful pieces.
I said 1993 was busy for her, Iwasn't lying.
One more, one more event forMiss Girl in 1993.
The Anglomania show of winter1993, where she debuted her
tartan clan MacAndrea namedafter her husband, andrea, which
(19:22):
is officially recognized andpreserved by the national
records by the Lacheron ofScotland.
The Anglomania Collection of1993 was one look to classic
medieval and renaissance corecostumes for inspiration.
This is considered one ofVivienne Westwood looked to
classic medieval and renaissancecore costumes for inspiration.
This is considered one ofVivian Westwood's most iconic
(19:42):
shows with Naomi Campbell isbeing recorded as falling during
the show due to wearingextremely high heels and she
laughs and walks it off and it'skind of iconic.
But 1996, we finally got abreak for a couple years.
1996 saw the release of VivienneWestwood's Nan collection in
(20:06):
Milan and continuing through the90s, vivienne and the brand
continued to play with feminineRococo inspirations through
their drapey, silky eveninggowns, just in general
throughout the 90s.
In 98, their debut fragrance,boudoir, is released.
In 99, vivienne Westwoodlaunches the red label, which
(20:31):
stands to resemble kind of apret-a-porter of the French
couture lines, kind of apret-a-porter of the French
couture lines, and the goldlabel for made-to-measure
demi-couture lines.
Considering you can't claimhaute couture outside of France,
this is the closest that thebrand could get.
Early 2000s were also so kindto the business of Vivienne
(20:52):
Westwood.
In the year 2000, from April toJune there lived an exhibition
titled Vivienne Westwood, theCollection of Romilly McAlpine,
and it opened at the Museum ofLondon 2001, the official brand
website launched for e-commerceand more boutiques in Hong Kong
and Korea were opened.
In 2003, moet and ChandonFashion Tribute paid honor to
(21:16):
Vivian Westwood as the firstdesigner to have a solo
exhibition at the Victoria andAlbert Museum, and in 2011, los
Angeles became home to theirfirst Vivian Westwood flagship
store.
Most of Westwood's workthroughout the 2000s and 2010s
categorized in one term activism.
(21:37):
She really leaned into activismfor her collections Her 2006
show coming in as one of hermost political messages for
being a resistance to propaganda.
Her spring-summer 2016 show shestages a climate fash mob in
which models carry placards thatread Climate Revolution.
And jumping back four years, in2012, the Vivian Westwood Group
(22:01):
ended a long-standing businessrelationship with Hervea, which
operated seven stores linked tothe VW brand.
This brought on a legal battleon the grounds of breach of
contract, leading to Herveasettling and releasing the
stores back to Vivienne Westwood.
Today, the brand stands strong,with Andrea Cranthier leading
(22:21):
the brand as creative directorand with 63 locations worldwide,
two in the US, both in New YorkCity and Los Angeles.
Westwood built a fashion empirewith international acclaim,
supporting departments inwomen's wear, shoes, cosmetics,
men's wear, you name it.
She had a cult following inevery category.
(22:43):
I briefly touched on herpersonal achievements just
throughout, but I wanted to giveher own section on personal
achievements.
So if any of these soundfamiliar, consider it, just
really ingraining it into yourbrain.
How about that?
Vivian Westwood is loudlycelebrated at many points of her
(23:03):
career.
Let's talk about her highestachievements.
To start, let's flash back to1992, when Westwood is made an
Officer of the Order of theBritish Empire, the OBE, and
also became Dame Commander in2006, effectively being titled
Dame Vivienne Isabel Westwood.
Vivienne Westwood is also namedamong the top six designers in
(23:27):
1986, along with Armani SaintLaurent and Karl Lagerfeld.
Notice how they're all men.
Vivienne Westwood is beatingstereotypes.
In the same year, she acceptsthe appointment to be a
professor at Vienna Academy ofApplied Arts, where she ended up
(23:48):
meeting her husband.
In both 1990 and 1991, vivianWestwood is awarded Fashion
Designer of the Year from theBCF, bfc British Fashion Council
my bad.
In spring of 2000, the Museum ofLondon has an exhibition opened
to honor Vivian Westwood andthe collection Romilly McAlpine,
and in 2004, she decided todevote all of her creations to
(24:13):
the Victoria and Albert Museumin London.
In 2007, it was requested toredesign the academic gowns for
the King's College London,westwood cites that through her
reworking of the traditionaldress, she tried to incorporate
all of the past, present andfuture of the traditional dress.
(24:36):
Present and future of thetraditional dress.
As mentioned, vivian Westwoodis no stranger to climate
activism and in 2012, shelaunched her climate revolution
campaign with protests at theLondon Paralympics and in 2014,
she turned up at the then PrimeMinister's David Cameron's home
disguised in a Santa suit,attempting to deliver a gift of
(24:58):
asbestos.
Obviously, she was unsuccessful, but at no shock to anybody,
she is noted denouncingoverconsumption.
She says I don't feelcomfortable defending my clothes
, but if you've got the money toafford it, then buy something
from me.
Just don't buy too much.
Perhaps my most favoriteachievement of hers, she is a
(25:18):
self-taught fashion student whofollowed her passion and built a
brand whose influence knows noborders, with the manga anime
series Nana depicting characterswearing what resembles Vivian
Westwood throughout the series,using Westwood's unique and
powerful designs to express themain character's nana's inner
(25:40):
thoughts and feelings.
Westwood continued deepeningher research and understanding
of fashion throughout her career, studying garments found in
museums and historic sources,which is evident in her use and
transformation of corsets,bustles and, most iconically,
the crinoline.
(26:01):
She is my favorite woman in STEM.
I love her.
I find her to be dazzling.
She is complex, she'sintelligent, she is just amazing
.
I am in awe of her.
I feel like every time I covera woman on this podcast, I just
(26:21):
find her to be so inspirational.
And then I do the men and I'mlike, oh, why, why, why, just
why?
Hey, how about, why?
No, that's not true.
I love YSL.
I think he is fabulous.
I'm just feeling a lot ofgratitude for this podcast, even
though there's like fourlisteners.
But I was journaling about ittoday and I feel so grateful for
(26:47):
my intelligence in this spaceand getting to just learn new
things all the time.
So that's kind of how I'mfeeling.
I hope you feel the same way.
And, yeah, I hope you enjoyedthis episode.
Vivian Westwood is amazing.
She's my favorite woman ever,next to Marilyn Monroe, of
(27:10):
course.
Yeah, like I said, I hope youenjoyed.
I'll leave my sources down belowif you want to do a deeper dive
.
And until next time, ooh, nexttime we're doing fashion
illustrations.
I know we kind of talked aboutit in the fashion industry dive,
but hey, you mind if we divedeeper Marianas Trench style.
(27:32):
So that's what we're going toin september.
Is that september?
I don't know.
My days are kind of a blur now.
Anywho, much love, much love.
Kisses to my bitches.
Bye.
Hi, divas, and welcome to MagnaBeak, your
favorite podcast for learningabout fashion's most influential
women.
Today we talk about VivianWestwood.
Um, I will be so for real.
Before researching for thisepisode, I can't say that I knew
much of anything about VivianWestwood, but, but, but, but.
(00:39):
I have grown so fond of her.
I think she's the coolest.
I want to be her.
So I've gained a lot of respectfor this woman right here and I
will take great care of her.
While we talk about her, andlet's just jump into it.
So, as a person, vivianWestwood can be described as a
(01:01):
leader of the modern punkmovement, somebody who craves
knowledge so much that herdesigns emulate and take spins
on classic art history and makethem into modern marvels, taking
influence from varying sectorsto create some of her most
influential collections, iePirates, the Minirenny and
(01:22):
Anglomania.
Let's take a closer look on howVivian conquered the fashion
scene as a once-outsider,becoming one of the most
well-renowned artists of themodern fashion age.
Born April 8, 1941, an Ariesqueen in Glossop, derbyshire,
england, her parents, gordon andDora Schweier, lived a modest
(01:45):
life, with her father beingemployed as a storekeeper in an
aircraft factory.
They resided in Derbyshireuntil 1958, when the family
moved to Harrow, london.
It was here that Vivian wasfirst introduced to the world of
the arts.
She took a jewelry making andsilversmith course at Harrow Art
School, though this endeavorwas short-lived, as after the
(02:07):
first term she quit, citing thatshe, a working class girl,
could not understand how shecould possibly make a living in
the arts.
Luckily, we come to know thatwhere there is a will, there is
a way.
Vivian got it done.
Instead of initially pursuingher passion for design and art,
she takes up a job in a factorywhile she studies to be a
(02:28):
teacher.
It was at this factory job thatshe met her husband-to-be,
derek Westwood, and once shesuccessfully fulfills her
education, vivian becomes aprimary school teacher, while on
the side creating her ownjewelry and maintaining a stall
at the Portobello Road Market.
The Westwoods wed on July 21,1962.
(02:49):
Vivian made her own gown.
Go ahead and take a note ofthis for later and later.
In 1963, their family expandedwith the welcoming of their son,
benjamin Westwood.
Their family expanded with thewelcoming of their son, benjamin
Westwood.
Vivian seemed content with herquiet, slow suburban life.
She had her husband, her kid,her career, but was that enough
(03:11):
to keep her satisfied?
Unfortunately, I don't believeit to be in this situation.
In 1965, vivian Westwood metMalcolm McLaren, a publicist,
and this was the beginning ofthe end of her marriage with
Derek Westwood.
The two ended things and Vivianmoved in with McLaren.
She maintains that while theymet before divorcing Derek,
(03:33):
there was not any romanticoverlap, citing that the divorce
is a cause of not feeling asthough she could reach her
fullest potential.
While teaching, vivianmaintained an interest in
fashion and design, seeking outknowledge wherever possible.
This created a collaborativeopportunity with Malcolm McLaren
, allowing Vivian to break intoa new exciting career in fashion
(03:55):
.
So now we are moving into whatI like to call her McLaren era,
which was pivotal to Vivianfinding her footing in the
fashion industry and layingroots to catapult her into icon
status.
This era starts in 1965, whenWestwood and McLaren meet and
start pursuing a career infashion together.
(04:16):
Westwood kept her status as aschoolteacher but on the side,
created designs with McLaren todress a punk band that McLaren
managed named Sex Pistols.
Westwood and McLaren would moveto Clapham and birth their son,
joseph Corey, in 1967.
In 1971, westwood left teachingand the two of them opened a
(04:37):
boutique to fill with and selldesigns that had been seen worn
by the band.
The boutique was called Let itRock and it was located at 430
Kings Road in Chelsea, london.
The designs produced here werebased on opposition against the
traditional British standard ofmorality.
It defies polite society andexpresses the wearer's deviation
(05:00):
from society.
This boutique very quicklybecame a hub for the punk
movement.
The designs towed the line ofcompletely unhinged and
grotesque to hardcore and lovedby those without alternative
views.
With provocative prints andslogans.
The designs got them in legaltrouble, being prosecuted under
(05:21):
the 1959 Obscene PublicationsAct.
This act essentially makes itan offense to produce anything
deemed obscene for publicdisplay, though making
exceptions for art and literarypurposes.
But after facing prosecution,the duo started making more
t-shirts with even more obscenedesigns.
(05:44):
I do believe that this inspiredthe creation of the swastika
shirt, which aimed at sending amessage about denouncing the
system and dictatorships, moreso than endorsing the actual
Nazi regime.
The anarchy shirt was releasedin 1977, displaying a swastika
(06:04):
on the front, laid over aninverted photo of Christ on the
crucifix, also in conjunction toQueen Elizabeth II, on a stamp
with the words in all capsDESTROY above the imagery.
Now I want to hear yourthoughts on that.
Let's hear it.
(06:26):
I'm unsure of my thoughts.
I see how she got there.
I do, however, I feeluncomfortable about the
execution.
To speak my God-given truth,yeah, let me know your thoughts
on that.
Throughout the 70s, westwoodcontinued to master up unique
pieces to push forward the punkmovement.
For example, she merged theleather jackets worn by bikers
(06:50):
with classic pornographicimagery and because why not?
Traditional Scottish tartansthink plaid skirt textiles as a
tartan, and this produced whatshe dubbed the DIY aesthetic
that raged through the punkmovement punk community.
They loved to DIY their owngarments.
(07:11):
The boutique saw manyrebrandings and many name
changes five to be exact allmatching the aesthetics and
titles of their varyingcollections.
So a few more fun facts aboutthe shop itself before moving on
to the collaborativecollections with the pair.
With the shop changing names somany times, it's kind of hard
(07:32):
to keep track of which namebelongs to which era.
The shop originated as Let it itrock, which sold vintage 1950s
clothing.
They changed their name to toofast to live, too young to die,
in 1972 to cater toward bikercore.
They then rebranded in 1974 tosex and use the slogan rubber
(07:55):
wear for the office.
Sure.
Then they reopened to cater topunk rock and the sex pistols.
Transforming fetishism intofashion under the name
Seditionaries.
Lastly, maintaining the nameWorld's End A fun fact about the
shop and I know I've said funfact twice in this paragraph,
(08:16):
but these are fun and factual.
So a fun fact about the shop.
The basement used to be a localrestaurant, but World's End was
so successful that theyeventually purchased the space
to expand the stockroom.
Today the space remainsaesthetically as it was 40 years
ago, though it was restored in2017.
So the two collaborated on fivecollections together.
(08:39):
Let's go through them.
The Pirates Collection was thefirst collaborative collection
made by the pair and shown tothe media and international
buyers.
Released for the fall-winter1981 season, the Pirates Show
was inspired by pieces sold attheir boutique.
It was praised for itsliberation from the constrictive
(09:00):
silhouettes of the 70s.
It was looser, more loose.
I guess the collection wasinspired by an 18th century
engraving of a pirate withbreech-style buccaneered
trousers and a matching jacket.
This collection highlighted herattention to technique.
While maintaining classictechnique.
The designs were also partlyinspired by African textile
(09:22):
patterns, especially the piratetrousers, which included a
baggier rear which contrastedthe hippie tight-ass style of
the time.
This collection featured manyhistoric nods to the 18th and
19th century dress, britishhistory and textiles using
(09:42):
African prints.
The runway was also accompaniedby rap and ethnic music, which
was considered unique for thetime.
Soon after Pirates debuted,westwood and McLaren ended their
personal relationship but wouldcontinue to collaborate for an
additional five years, workingon the following collections
together Savage in 1982, whichfeatured inspiration from
(10:07):
indigenous peoples,incorporating sheepskin and
shell detailing.
Punkature in the fall of 1982,which featured distressed or
recycled garments in pre-washedmaterials, which often the look
was being referred to ashillbilly.
Then we have the BuffaloCollection in fall winter of
(10:27):
1982-83, and it gained its namefrom Malcolm's 1983 track called
Buffalo Gals and was integralin Westwood's early work.
The collection itself aimed atblending streetwear with
quote-unquote multiculturalsensibility, and this was taken
from the A to Z guide of VivianWestwood.
(10:48):
The collection features a lotof layering and earth tones and
can even be seen by PharrellWilliams', dare I say, most
iconic look of wearing themountain hat to the 2014 Grammys
.
It is a comically large hat.
I reckon you all look it up.
Lastly, the Witches' Collectionof 1983, their final
(11:10):
collaborative masterpiece.
This collection's mostnoteworthy feature is the
interpretation of the men'strench.
Westwood aimed for a unisexmasculine style with exaggerated
cuts similar to those worn byofficers in the First World War.
Post-mclaren partnership,westwood showed once more for
(11:31):
the world's end label entitledClint Eastwood in late 1984.
The Vivian Westwood brandcontinues to open up four more
shops throughout London andeventually throughout the world,
with products varying inaesthetics.
Some merchandise promotedpolitical causes that Westwood
felt called to promote, ieclimate change and civil rights
(11:53):
groups.
So now that the McLaren era isover, vivienne Westwood's empire
continued and prospered.
Post-entanglement, her fashionmuses moved less in the
direction of streetwear andfound more fulfillment indulging
in the past.
Her Harris Tweed collectionreflects this perfectly.
This collection celebratestraditional English tailoring.
(12:15):
Westwood began prioritizingrefinement and education of a
piece rather than youthfulrebellion.
It was due to this shift thatVogue began to feature her work
more regularly throughout thelate 80s.
Westwood's work throughout the80s and 90s reigned supreme in
her resume.
She appropriates thearistocratic establishment,
(12:39):
status and elitism in atheatrical show.
She continues to draw on thistheme of heritage and culture
throughout her work.
Let's talk about my favoritecollection from hers and it's
crazy because it is like thefirst independent collection the
Mini Cranny of 1986, astatement piece meant to
(13:00):
juxtapose the traditions of 18thcentury English women.
This debut marked a turningpoint in the brand and
Westwood's career.
For the next 20 years, shewould continue to create
collections that draw fromclassical sources, such as
paintings from Francois Boucherand Jean-Honoré Fragonard.
(13:24):
Sorry, I didn't google that, butthis era of Vivian's work
included features like the 19thcentury bustle into dresses and
tartan miniskirts.
The mini crinny garment itselfis a reimagining of the
Victorian crinoline, fusing theconcept with the modern
miniskirt.
With its mini-length, bouffant,large, outrageous puffball
(13:48):
skirt, it's meant to interweavethe two conflicting ideals, with
the crinoline representing therestriction of women's clothing
of the past and the liberationof women and women's clothing in
the modern day.
With the miniskirt, it's one ofher most popular reworkings,
with arguably her most popularbeing the borrowing of the
(14:09):
corset and turning it intodaywear, slash outerwear,
leaning into the fetishism andfetish wear trend that she
created in the 70s.
When speaking on the corset,westwood is quoted saying for me
, the focus of a woman is thewaist, and that was taken from
also the A to Z guide toVivienne Westwood.
He felt it as reappropriatingthe cinched waist silhouette to
(14:33):
add a playful effect,effectively transforming the
historically restrictive tool ofthe male gaze and validation
into a garment that exudesfemale sexuality.
So, in short, vivian Westwoodis to blame for the corset
epidemic of late 2010s.
If you were a teen or early 20sgal, in like 2017 to from 2017,
(15:00):
2016, 2017 to like now basically, but I would say the peak, like
2019 I just felt like the maingarment to wear out and about to
look slay was a corset, and Inever fell for the propaganda,
although it looks really cooland I would love a corset.
(15:20):
And I never fell for thepropaganda, although it looks
really cool and I would love acorset.
I just it's not my vibe.
But anyway, thank you, vivianWestwood, for the trends.
Appreciate it.
Okay, let's briefly go back tothe Harris Twee collection.
I know we mentioned it threeminutes ago, but we're back.
The Harris-Dewey Collection of1987.
(15:42):
This collection was inspired bythe Tattler girls and the
parodying of the upper class.
This period is marked as thepagan era, with the slogan being
Britain must go pagan.
In 1989, vivienne Westwoodappeared on the Condé Nast-owned
magazine Tatler dressed as thethen Prime Minister, margaret
(16:05):
Thatcher.
This collection kickstarted herlong-standing relationship with
the Scottish Harris Tweed brandand is often credited for
reviving the use of tweed ingarments.
You'll also notice that duringthis collection, Vivienne
Westwood's brand adopted the useof the orb with rings around it
that resemble Saturn into theirbrand identity.
(16:27):
The use of this orb sparkedcontroversy as it does closely
resemble that of the HarrisTweed Authority symbol.
But the HTA or Harris TweedAuthority came out
post-Westwood's death to clarifythat, while the symbol is
similar and Westwood did leaninto the authority for
(16:49):
inspiration, there is no badblood between the brand and they
fully endorse the use.
I did add the word fully bymyself, so maybe they don't
fully endorse the use, but theyendorse the use.
Let's talk about the 90s.
The 90s were busy for our dearMiss Westwood.
1990 and 1991, she received theaward for Fashion Designer of
(17:09):
the Year from the BritishFashion Council.
In 92, vivienne Westwood wasawarded by the Queen Elizabeth
the Most Excellent Order of theBritish Empire, or OBE.
She dared to be bold once more,because why wouldn't she?
And she showed up to this eventpantyless, which was a big
(17:32):
scandal because pantyless nextto the Queen.
Scandal because pantyless nextto the queen.
In 92 she capitalized on herknack for making wedding dresses
this is the callback I wastalking about by launching her
wedding gown line which, ifyou're up to speed in pop
culture, charlie xcx justmarried george from the 1975 and
vivian was to address and shelooked so iconic it was, I think
(17:56):
, like at a courthouse.
Very slay, very slay, mama.
I love a courthouse wedding.
I had a courthouse wedding,except in New York instead of
our hometown, and that's so slaytoo.
I'll say it.
Where was I?
Oh yes, 1992 through 1993 sawthe release of the Pouty and Orb
(18:18):
watches.
Same year she also opened a newboutique on Conduit Street and
additionally, in 1993, she wasappointed as a professor of
fashion at the BerlinerHochschul-de-Kunst-School Social
de Kunz Day School I'm so sorryabout.
(18:39):
1993 was a busy year for her.
Westwood married once more toher assistant, andrea
Cron-Taylor, whom she remainedmarried to until her death in
December 2022.
The two met while Westwood wasteaching at the Vienna School of
Applied Arts.
Once married, he remained asilent partner of the label and
(19:00):
is now the creative director ofthe brand, creating some really
beautiful pieces.
I said 1993 was busy for her, Iwasn't lying.
One more, one more event forMiss Girl in 1993.
The Anglomania show of winter1993, where she debuted her
tartan clan MacAndrea namedafter her husband, andrea, which
(19:22):
is officially recognized andpreserved by the national
records by the Lacheron ofScotland.
The Anglomania Collection of1993 was one look to classic
medieval and renaissance corecostumes for inspiration.
This is considered one ofVivienne Westwood looked to
classic medieval and renaissancecore costumes for inspiration.
This is considered one ofVivian Westwood's most iconic
(19:42):
shows with Naomi Campbell isbeing recorded as falling during
the show due to wearingextremely high heels and she
laughs and walks it off and it'skind of iconic.
But 1996, we finally got abreak for a couple years.
1996 saw the release of VivienneWestwood's Nan collection in
(20:06):
Milan and continuing through the90s, vivienne and the brand
continued to play with feminineRococo inspirations through
their drapey, silky eveninggowns, just in general
throughout the 90s.
In 98, their debut fragrance,boudoir, is released.
In 99, vivienne Westwoodlaunches the red label, which
(20:31):
stands to resemble kind of apret-a-porter of the French
couture lines, kind of apret-a-porter of the French
couture lines, and the goldlabel for made-to-measure
demi-couture lines.
Considering you can't claimhaute couture outside of France,
this is the closest that thebrand could get.
Early 2000s were also so kindto the business of Vivienne
(20:52):
Westwood.
In the year 2000, from April toJune there lived an exhibition
titled Vivienne Westwood, theCollection of Romilly McAlpine,
and it opened at the Museum ofLondon 2001, the official brand
website launched for e-commerceand more boutiques in Hong Kong
and Korea were opened.
In 2003, moet and ChandonFashion Tribute paid honor to
(21:16):
Vivian Westwood as the firstdesigner to have a solo
exhibition at the Victoria andAlbert Museum, and in 2011, los
Angeles became home to theirfirst Vivian Westwood flagship
store.
Most of Westwood's workthroughout the 2000s and 2010s
categorized in one term activism.
(21:37):
She really leaned into activismfor her collections Her 2006
show coming in as one of hermost political messages for
being a resistance to propaganda.
Her spring-summer 2016 show shestages a climate fash mob in
which models carry placards thatread Climate Revolution.
And jumping back four years, in2012, the Vivian Westwood Group
(22:01):
ended a long-standing businessrelationship with Hervea, which
operated seven stores linked tothe VW brand.
This brought on a legal battleon the grounds of breach of
contract, leading to Herveasettling and releasing the
stores back to Vivienne Westwood.
Today, the brand stands strong,with Andrea Cranthier leading
(22:21):
the brand as creative directorand with 63 locations worldwide,
two in the US, both in New YorkCity and Los Angeles.
Westwood built a fashion empirewith international acclaim,
supporting departments inwomen's wear, shoes, cosmetics,
men's wear, you name it.
She had a cult following inevery category.
(22:43):
I briefly touched on herpersonal achievements just
throughout, but I wanted to giveher own section on personal
achievements.
So if any of these soundfamiliar, consider it, just
really ingraining it into yourbrain.
How about that?
Vivian Westwood is loudlycelebrated at many points of her
(23:03):
career.
Let's talk about her highestachievements.
To start, let's flash back to1992, when Westwood is made an
Officer of the Order of theBritish Empire, the OBE, and
also became Dame Commander in2006, effectively being titled
Dame Vivienne Isabel Westwood.
Vivienne Westwood is also namedamong the top six designers in
(23:27):
1986, along with Armani SaintLaurent and Karl Lagerfeld.
Notice how they're all men.
Vivienne Westwood is beatingstereotypes.
In the same year, she acceptsthe appointment to be a
professor at Vienna Academy ofApplied Arts, where she ended up
(23:48):
meeting her husband.
In both 1990 and 1991, vivianWestwood is awarded Fashion
Designer of the Year from theBCF, bfc British Fashion Council
my bad.
In spring of 2000, the Museum ofLondon has an exhibition opened
to honor Vivian Westwood andthe collection Romilly McAlpine,
and in 2004, she decided todevote all of her creations to
(24:13):
the Victoria and Albert Museumin London.
In 2007, it was requested toredesign the academic gowns for
the King's College London,westwood cites that through her
reworking of the traditionaldress, she tried to incorporate
all of the past, present andfuture of the traditional dress.
(24:36):
Present and future of thetraditional dress.
As mentioned, vivian Westwoodis no stranger to climate
activism and in 2012, shelaunched her climate revolution
campaign with protests at theLondon Paralympics and in 2014,
she turned up at the then PrimeMinister's David Cameron's home
disguised in a Santa suit,attempting to deliver a gift of
(24:58):
asbestos.
Obviously, she was unsuccessful, but at no shock to anybody,
she is noted denouncingoverconsumption.
She says I don't feelcomfortable defending my clothes
, but if you've got the money toafford it, then buy something
from me.
Just don't buy too much.
Perhaps my most favoriteachievement of hers, she is a
(25:18):
self-taught fashion student whofollowed her passion and built a
brand whose influence knows noborders, with the manga anime
series Nana depicting characterswearing what resembles Vivian
Westwood throughout the series,using Westwood's unique and
powerful designs to express themain character's nana's inner
(25:40):
thoughts and feelings.
Westwood continued deepeningher research and understanding
of fashion throughout her career, studying garments found in
museums and historic sources,which is evident in her use and
transformation of corsets,bustles and, most iconically,
the crinoline.
(26:01):
She is my favorite woman in STEM.
I love her.
I find her to be dazzling.
She is complex, she'sintelligent, she is just amazing
.
I am in awe of her.
I feel like every time I covera woman on this podcast, I just
(26:21):
find her to be so inspirational.
And then I do the men and I'mlike, oh, why, why, why, just
why?
Hey, how about, why?
No, that's not true.
I love YSL.
I think he is fabulous.
I'm just feeling a lot ofgratitude for this podcast, even
though there's like fourlisteners.
But I was journaling about ittoday and I feel so grateful for
(26:47):
my intelligence in this spaceand getting to just learn new
things all the time.
So that's kind of how I'mfeeling.
I hope you feel the same way.
And, yeah, I hope you enjoyedthis episode.
Vivian Westwood is amazing.
She's my favorite woman ever,next to Marilyn Monroe, of
(27:10):
course.
Yeah, like I said, I hope youenjoyed.
I'll leave my sources down belowif you want to do a deeper dive
.
And until next time, ooh, nexttime we're doing fashion
illustrations.
I know we kind of talked aboutit in the fashion industry dive,
but hey, you mind if we divedeeper Marianas Trench style.
(27:32):
So that's what we're going toin september.
Is that september?
I don't know.
My days are kind of a blur now.
Anywho, much love, much love.
Kisses to my bitches.
Bye.
Popular Podcasts
Stuff You Should Know
If you've ever wanted to know about champagne, satanism, the Stonewall Uprising, chaos theory, LSD, El Nino, true crime and Rosa Parks, then look no further. Josh and Chuck have you covered.
Dateline NBC
Current and classic episodes, featuring compelling true-crime mysteries, powerful documentaries and in-depth investigations. Follow now to get the latest episodes of Dateline NBC completely free, or subscribe to Dateline Premium for ad-free listening and exclusive bonus content: DatelinePremium.com
The Bobby Bones Show
Listen to 'The Bobby Bones Show' by downloading the daily full replay.