Tony Yaniro is a climbing legend and the first-ever person to redpoint a 5.13b with his ascent of The Grand Illusion in 1979. We talked about his early years, handmaking cams in his garage, developing The Needles, inventing the first campus board, training for 5.14 using tin foil, the controversy of chipping routes at Leslie Gulch, his legendary homewall on wheels, building a climbing gym, the importance of respecting your body, and much more.
PhysiVantage:
physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)
Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order.
Arc’teryx:
Check out the NEW Kragg Collection.
Mad Rock:
Use code “NUGGET10” at checkout for 10% off your next order.
Rúngne:
👆 Join the Rúngne community & start earning.
Use code “NUGGET” to get 10% off storewide.
Become a Patron:
We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:
- Michael Roy and Mark and Julie Calhoun
Show Notes:
thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/tony-yaniro
Nuggets:
(00:00:00) – Intro
(00:01:49) – Tony’s early climbing
(00:11:01) – Sticky rubber & homemade cams
(00:15:32) – 5 steps ahead
(00:21:12) – Hangdogging & The Grand Illusion (world’s first 5.13b)
(00:26:45) – Snowbird, backlash, & soloers
(00:30:08) – The Needles
(00:37:40) – Training for Scarface with tin foil
(00:40:58) – Pull-ups & Jim Collins
(00:45:57) – Quitting climbing the second time
(00:49:59) – The Winnebago
(00:52:50) – Making climbing holds
(00:57:07) – Leslie Gulch
(01:05:11) – City of Rocks
(01:10:24) – Drawing the line
(01:16:12) – Old school bolting
(01:24:40) – Riggins
(01:28:08) – Hideous Thing
(01:30:32) – Tony’s career & weekend climbing
(01:36:29) – Building a climbing gym
(01:41:41) – Tony’s climbing these days
(01:43:13) – Listen to your body
(01:46:17) – Respect your body
(01:47:50) – What excites Tony
Popular Podcasts
Are You A Charlotte?
In 1997, actress Kristin Davis’ life was forever changed when she took on the role of Charlotte York in Sex and the City. As we watched Carrie, Samantha, Miranda and Charlotte navigate relationships in NYC, the show helped push once unacceptable conversation topics out of the shadows and altered the narrative around women and sex. We all saw ourselves in them as they searched for fulfillment in life, sex and friendships. Now, Kristin Davis wants to connect with you, the fans, and share untold stories and all the behind the scenes. Together, with Kristin and special guests, what will begin with Sex and the City will evolve into talks about themes that are still so relevant today. "Are you a Charlotte?" is much more than just rewatching this beloved show, it brings the past and the present together as we talk with heart, humor and of course some optimism.
Dateline NBC
Current and classic episodes, featuring compelling true-crime mysteries, powerful documentaries and in-depth investigations. Follow now to get the latest episodes of Dateline NBC completely free, or subscribe to Dateline Premium for ad-free listening and exclusive bonus content: DatelinePremium.com
Stuff You Should Know
If you've ever wanted to know about champagne, satanism, the Stonewall Uprising, chaos theory, LSD, El Nino, true crime and Rosa Parks, then look no further. Josh and Chuck have you covered.