Tony Yaniro is a climbing legend and the first-ever person to redpoint a 5.13b with his ascent of The Grand Illusion in 1979. We talked about his early years, handmaking cams in his garage, developing The Needles, inventing the first campus board, training for 5.14 using tin foil, the controversy of chipping routes at Leslie Gulch, his legendary homewall on wheels, building a climbing gym, the importance of respecting your body, and much more.
PhysiVantage:
physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)
Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order.
Arc’teryx:
Check out the NEW Kragg Collection.
Mad Rock:
Use code “NUGGET10” at checkout for 10% off your next order.
Rúngne:
👆 Join the Rúngne community & start earning.
Use code “NUGGET” to get 10% off storewide.
Become a Patron:
We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:
- Michael Roy and Mark and Julie Calhoun
Show Notes:
thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/tony-yaniro
Nuggets:
(00:00:00) – Intro
(00:01:49) – Tony’s early climbing
(00:11:01) – Sticky rubber & homemade cams
(00:15:32) – 5 steps ahead
(00:21:12) – Hangdogging & The Grand Illusion (world’s first 5.13b)
(00:26:45) – Snowbird, backlash, & soloers
(00:30:08) – The Needles
(00:37:40) – Training for Scarface with tin foil
(00:40:58) – Pull-ups & Jim Collins
(00:45:57) – Quitting climbing the second time
(00:49:59) – The Winnebago
(00:52:50) – Making climbing holds
(00:57:07) – Leslie Gulch
(01:05:11) – City of Rocks
(01:10:24) – Drawing the line
(01:16:12) – Old school bolting
(01:24:40) – Riggins
(01:28:08) – Hideous Thing
(01:30:32) – Tony’s career & weekend climbing
(01:36:29) – Building a climbing gym
(01:41:41) – Tony’s climbing these days
(01:43:13) – Listen to your body
(01:46:17) – Respect your body
(01:47:50) – What excites Tony
Popular Podcasts
Stuff You Should Know
If you've ever wanted to know about champagne, satanism, the Stonewall Uprising, chaos theory, LSD, El Nino, true crime and Rosa Parks, then look no further. Josh and Chuck have you covered.
My Favorite Murder with Karen Kilgariff and Georgia Hardstark
My Favorite Murder is a true crime comedy podcast hosted by Karen Kilgariff and Georgia Hardstark. Each week, Karen and Georgia share compelling true crimes and hometown stories from friends and listeners. Since MFM launched in January of 2016, Karen and Georgia have shared their lifelong interest in true crime and have covered stories of infamous serial killers like the Night Stalker, mysterious cold cases, captivating cults, incredible survivor stories and important events from history like the Tulsa race massacre of 1921. My Favorite Murder is part of the Exactly Right podcast network that provides a platform for bold, creative voices to bring to life provocative, entertaining and relatable stories for audiences everywhere. The Exactly Right roster of podcasts covers a variety of topics including historic true crime, comedic interviews and news, science, pop culture and more. Podcasts on the network include Buried Bones with Kate Winkler Dawson and Paul Holes, That's Messed Up: An SVU Podcast, This Podcast Will Kill You, Bananas and more.
The Joe Rogan Experience
The official podcast of comedian Joe Rogan.