Episode Transcript
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Bob Bales (00:00):
Hi and welcome to the
Traveling Fool, the show that
talks about travel destinations,history, culture and people of
those places, along with traveltips and news.
I'm Bob Bales, and today we'reheaded to the Gulf of Texas, the
island city of Galveston, witha history of pirates, storms and
secrets.
Our story today revolves arounda grand old mansion on Broadway
(00:24):
Street in Galveston and itsmost unforgettable resident.
So stay tuned and we'll beright back.
(00:53):
Well, let's set the stage.
It's Galveston in the 1850s, abustling port city dubbed the
Wall Street of the Southwest.
Steamboats crowded the harbor,carrying cotton to New Orleans
and goods to the frontier.
Wealthy merchants built empiresand their mansions lined
Broadway Street like trophies,and among them, well, that stood
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Ashton Villa, a red-brickItalianate masterpiece built in
1859 by a fellow named JamesMoreau Brown, the fifth richest
man in Texas.
He was a hardware tycoon whohad risen from a New Orleans
clerk to a Galveston mogul, andJames spared no expense.
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The villa boasted 14-footceilings, arched windows,
iron-laced verandas and a goldroom where gilded wallpaper
gleamed under crystalchandeliers.
It was the first brick mansionon the island, a symbol of the
Brown family's status James, hiswife Rebecca and their five
children, including their fierydaughter Betty.
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Including their fiery daughterBetty.
Born in 1855, Rebecca AshtonBrown,
Betty, to everyone, was noordinary Victorian woman.
She was tall, had sharp wit andwas called the Texas Princess by
the Galveston Daily News forher extravagant lifestyle.
From a young age, she defiedthe era's expectations.
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While other women wererelegated to drawing rooms,
betty was sketching landscapes,reading novels and dreaming of
far-off places.
By her twenties, she was aforce of nature beautiful, bold
and fiercely independent.
She turned down marriageproposals from elite suitors
across the South and Northeast,choosing freedom over marriage.
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Instead, she embarked on solotravels through Europe, Egypt,
India, Jerusalem and Morocco,collecting treasures that
reflected her eclectic tasteornate ostrich feather fans,
intricate Middle Eastern jewelryand rare artifacts, many of
which still grace Ashton Villa'sdisplay cases today.
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Betty's adventures madeheadlines.
The Galveston Daily Newsreported her striding into a
ball with kittens trailing hergowns train, a stunt that
shocked high society.
She smoked cigars, my kind ofgirl, raced carriages through
Galveston streets and hostedlavish parties at Ashton Villa,
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where she had entertained withstories of her travels.
Her paintings, vibrantlandscapes and portraits adorned
the mansion walls, each one atestament to her artistic talent
.
But life wasn't all glamour forBetty.
During the Civil War, when shewas a child, Ashton Villa became
a Confederate hospital andheadquarters.
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Young Betty saw woundedsoldiers carried through the
doors, their cries echoing inthe halls.
Her mother, Rebecca, nursed themen, and the experience left a
mark on Betty's compassionateheart.
By the 1880s, betty was back inGalveston, living at Ashton
Villa with her parents andsiblings.
Betty was back in Galveston,living in Ashton Villa with her
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parents and siblings.
Her sister, Matilda, or Tillyas she was known, was a gifted
pianist who filled the housewith music.
While Betty's charisma made itthe social hub of the island,
she organized charity events,supported local artists and even
helped establish Galveston'sfirst art league.
But the city faced challengeseconomic dips, yellow fever
outbreaks and the constantthreat of hurricanes.
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Then came 1900, the year thatchanged everything.
The Great Storm, a Category 4hurricane, struck Galveston on
September the 8th, killing anestimated 6,000 to 12,000 people
, the deadliest natural disasterin US history.
Ashton Villa stood strongthough its brick walls, a
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fortress.
Betty, who by now was 45,opened the mansion to neighbors,
turning it into a makeshiftshelter.
She spent weeks nurturing theinjured, feeding the homeless
and raising funds for orphans,showing a resilience that
matched her flair.
After the storm, Betty's lifegrew quieter.
She never married, choosing tostay at Ashton Villa surrounded
(05:15):
by her treasures and memories,and she continued painting,
filling sketchbooks with scenesof Galveston's recovery.
When she died in 1920, at theage of 65, she passed away in
her bedroom on the second floor,the heart of the home she loved
.
And that's when the whispersbegan.
Ashton Villa didn't stay quietafter Betty's death.
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Caretakers reported strangeoccurrences almost immediately.
Footsteps echoed down the grandstaircase where floodwaters had
reached the 10th step duringthe 1900 storm.
In the gold room where Betty'sfans and paintings are displayed
, chairs shifted overnight as ifsomeone had rearranged them.
Clocks in the parlor stopped atodd hours, their hands frozen.
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A groundskeeper quoted in1920's Galveston Daily News
article swore that he saw awoman in a turquoise gown
Betty's favorite color standingby the gold room window gazing
towards the gulf, and when hecalled out, she vanished.
By the 1970s, when the GalvestonHistorical Foundation saved
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Ashton Villa from demolition,the stories multiplied, reports
of doors swinging open, lockedfrom the inside.
Betty's souvenir box from herMiddle Eastern travels, kept in
a second-floor bedroom, wasfound unlocked without a key.
Its contents rearranged.
Bed covers in Betty's roomappeared wrinkled, as if someone
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sat there just moments before.
One caretaker in a 1978Galveston Historical Foundation
newsletter described hearingpiano music late at night in the
gold room, expecting vandals.
He rushed in only to find theroom empty, but the air was
heavy with the smell of jasmineBetty's signature perfume.
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Although Betty wasn't a pianist,Tilly was and many attributed
the music to her, and visitorshave their own tales.
A 1980s tour group saw a blondewoman on the second floor
landing holding one of Betty'sostrich feather fans, only to
disappear when approached.
Another guest felt a cold handbrush their arm on the hallway
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and where Betty's paintings hung.
Paranormal investigators in the1990s brought in those EMF
meters and voice recorderscapturing spikes near the
staircase and chilling EVP inthe gold room.
A woman's voice saying my home", followed by a man's angry
murmur perhaps a suit or Bettyhad spurned Some believe Civil
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War soldiers from the villa'shospital days linger their boots
echoing on the grounds.
Others hear Tilly's piano, hermelodies drifting through the
halls, a reminder of her tragiclife after escaping an abusive
marriage.
More recent accounts keep themystery alive.
During a 2015 wedding at AshtonVilla, which is now an event
venue, guests reported alarmstripping without calls.
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A bride claimed her veil lifted, as if caught by a breeze in a
closed room In 2020, a catererheard a woman's voice ask who is
the most beautiful of them allA phrase some tie to Betty's
reputed vanity.
A phrase some tie to Betty'sreputed vanity.
Ghost tours, especially duringOctober's haunted harbor season,
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draw crowds hoping to feel herpresence.
Whether it's jasmine in the air, a creaking door or a fleeting
figure in turquoise, BettyBrown's enigma endures.
Betty wasn't just a figure ofmystery.
She was a trailblazer who livedlife on her own terms.
She painted, traveled anddefied a world that tried to
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tame her.
Her presence at Ashton Villa,whether in footsteps, jasmine or
moved furniture, is a testamentto a spirit that's just too
vibrant to fade.
And Galveston isn't just abackdrop for Betty's tale.
It's a living, breathing islandwhere history, beauty and
mystery collide.
So let's take a deeper diveinto why you should visit
Galveston, Texas, whether or notyou believe in spirits, and
(09:18):
experience its timeless charm.
Galveston is a coastal town thathas 32 miles of beaches,
historic districts and apopulation of about
53,000-54,000.
The balance is a small townwarmth with a big city energy.
You can start your journey atAshton Villa, which is on
Broadway at Avenue J, nowmanaged by the Galveston
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Historical Foundation, andpublic tours are kind of limited
due to its use as an eventvenue.
Special programs, especiallyOctober's Spooky History events,
let you explore its opulentrooms, but you can walk through
the gold room where Betty'spaintings and fans are displayed
, or climb the grand staircasewhere footsteps echo.
Check galvestonhistory.
(10:02):
org for event schedules andbooking details.
And just a few blocks away fromthere, the Strand Historic
District is a Victorian timecapsule.
Its red brick buildings, oncehome to cotton barons, now house
boutiques, galleries andrestaurants.
You can stop by La King'sConfectionery, where candy
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makers pull saltwater taffy theold fashion way, or sip a beer
at the Devil in the Deep TapRoom, a local favorite.
Antique hunters could losehours at the Antique Warehouse
rummaging through nauticalrelics, vintage jewelry and 19th
century furniture.
Man, they've just goteverything.
And there's a lot of otherantique shops in town if that's
(10:46):
your thing.
For culture, the 1894 GrandOpera House hosts concerts,
ballets and plays.
Check thegrand.
com for all its upcoming shows,and if you're lucky, you might
catch a performance of AChristmas Carol during the
holidays.
It's a nod to Galveston'sDickinson charm, I can tell you,
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though, those tickets are hardto get, so you better book them
early.
For beach lovers, Galveston'sgot a lot of options.
Stewart Beach is perfect forfamilies with lifeguards, and
volleyball courts and picnicareas.
East Beach is kind of more of aparty spot, hosting live music,
bonfires and summer festivals.
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The seawall built after the1900 storm to protect the city
stretches for 10 miles along thegulf.
You can rent a bike from IslandBicycles and pedal its length,
stopping for just views of thegulf or a quick dip in the gulf
itself.
The historic Pleasure Pier withits neon-lit Ferris wheel and
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roller coasters brings retrothrills.
You can try the Iron Sharkcoaster for an adrenaline rush
For water adventures Third CoastParasail, on nearby Crystal
Beach offers, parasailing whereyou can soar above the gulf and
maybe spot a dolphin or two.
And if you're a history bufflike me, well, Galveston's your
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place.
You've got the Bishop's Palace,a block from Ashton Villa, and
it's a Gothic masterpiece withstained glass windows and carved
oak staircases.
It was built in 1892 for alawyer named Walter Gresham and
it's open daily for tours.
You can also checkgalvestonhistory.
org for the times and all theirother properties that they
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manage.
The Moody Mansion, which washome to a cotton and banking
dynasty, showcases the GildedAge opulence with its 20,000
square foot of marble andmahogany.
The Texas Seaport Museum hasthe 1877 tall ship Elissa.
It's docked at the harbor.
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You can climb aboard a restoredschooner and they do go out
every now and then.
And if you want to pay themoney, go for it.
At the Galveston RailroadMuseum they have vintage
locomotives and passenger cars.
It tells the story of theisland's railroading past.
It also has a model trainexhibit that the kids just love.
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Man, if you're a foodie, well,get ready.
Galveston's culinary scene isas rich as its history.
Gaido's, which opened in 1911,serves gulf shrimp, crab and
oysters that'll make your tastebuds sing man.
Try that stuffed flounder thatthey have.
Shrimp and Stuff is a localdive that they've got two or
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three of, if I'm not mistaken,and it's famous for po'boys
piled high with fried shrimp orcatfish.
For dessert, stop by a placecalled Patty Cakes Bakery.
It has so many sweet treatsyou'll have trouble deciding on
just one, so pick up a couple.
You can wash it down with afrozen mango daiquiri at
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Daiquiri Time Out on the Strand,where bartenders will also mix
you up some killer cocktails.
Now, if you're cravingsomething upscale, Number 13,
Prime Steak and Seafood, offersGulf views along with Japanese
Wagyu steaks, seafood andimpeccable service.
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Galveston's spooky side extendsbeyond Ashton Villa.
Ghost Tours of Galveston takesyou through the Strand, historic
cemeteries and the seawall,sharing tales of pirate Jean
Lafitte, Civil War soldiers andvictims of the 1900 storm.
The Hotel Galvez, which I'vestayed a couple of times, is a
1911 landmark known as the Queenof the Gulf.
It has its own legend.
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The lovelorn lady in room 501was said to flicker the lights
on and off and whisper to guests.
So if you feel brave enough,just tell them you want to book
room 501.
Galveston's calendar is packedwith events that bring the
island to life.
They've got Mardi Gras, whichis held in February.
It rivals New Orleans with allof its parades, bead throwing
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and street parties.
You can check out the mashedballs at the Tremont House for a
glamorous night.
Summer's sandcastle beachcompetition draws artists who
sculpt just jaw-dropping castlesand mermaids and sea creatures
from the sand.
And in December, Dickens on theStrand transforms downtown into
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a Victorian Christmas, withcarolers, street vendors selling
roasted chestnuts and locals intop hats.
The Pleasure Pier hostsfireworks, live music and
family-friendly festivals.
You can visit galveston.
com for all the event dates.
They've always got somethinggoing on down there.
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They've got Jeep Week, they'vegot motorcycle events you name
it.
They've got something happeningall the time in Galveston.
Now for a classic Galvestonexperience, you can book you a
horse-drawn carriage.
With Galveston CarriageLimousine you can clip-clop past
Broadway mansions and palmtrees, swaying overhead as your
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drivers share stories of BettyBrown on the island's colorful
past.
Or you can rent an e-bike fromIsland Bicycles and cruise the
seawall, stopping it andchecking out some of the murals
painted by the local artists.
Or grab a coffee somewhere.
Mod Coffeehouse is a greatplace to stop if you're craving
a good cup of coffee.
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And if you're feelingadventurous, try a fishing
charter with Galveston SeaVentures.
You can go out and try yourhand at redfish or flounder
fishing.
So why visit Galveston?
Well, it's a place where youcan touch the past, savor the
present and feel the island'sheartbeat.
Ashtonville is elegant.
The strands's charm and theGulf's endless horizon make it a
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destination like no other.
You can stroll where Bettywalked, taste the seafood she
loved and maybe catch a whiff ofjasmine on the breeze.
Whether you're chasing history,adventure or just a perfect
sunset, galveston's a greatplace to visit.
It's a city that's witheredstorms, pirates at time, and the
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spirit, betty's spirit, shinesbrighter than ever.
Let's just circle back to Bettyfor just a second.
She wasn't just the Texasprincess or a figure of mystery.
She was a pioneer, a woman whopainted her world, traveled the
globe and helped rebuild hercity after its darkest hour.
Her legacy lives in AshtonVilla's walls and the paintings
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she created, the fans shecollected and the stories that
linger.
Whether it's a creaking door, apiano's soft notes or a voice
asking who's the most beautiful,betty's enigma is Galveston's
heartbeat, a reminder that somelives are too bold to be
forgotten.
So pack your bags and head toGalveston.
Visit Ashton Villa, explore theStrand, paddle to bay and
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listen for Betty's Echo.
You won't just see Galveston,you'll live her story.
Thanks for joining me this week.
I appreciate you listening.
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