Episode Transcript
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Bob Bales (00:00):
Hi and welcome to the
Traveling Fool, the show where
we explore the most intriguingaspects of travel, culture and
history.
I'm your host, Bob Bales, andtoday we are heading to Brenham,
Texas, in Washington County, aregion that is rich in history,
bursting with natural beauty andhome to a sweet delicacy which
(00:22):
is a favorite of any true Texan.
So, whether you're a historybuff, a foodie or someone
looking for a serene countrysidevibe, brenham has something for
everyone.
Stay tuned as we explore thebirthplace of Texas.
Hello and thanks for tuning inthis week and, like I said, this
(01:04):
week we're talking aboutBrenham, texas, and Washington
County.
So let's start with history,because Brenham and Washington
County have roots that run deepin Texas lore.
This area just isn't any smalltown spot.
It's where Texas was born.
In fact, did you know thatWashington on the Brazos, a
(01:24):
state historic site inWashington County, is often
referred to as the birthplace ofTexas?
It's where Texas declared itsindependence from Mexico in 1836
.
Washington on the Brazos statehistoric site is huge.
It's a sprawling area with amuseum, the Star of Texas.
(01:44):
Actually, it's called the Starof the Republic Museum.
It's about 10,000 square feetof exhibitions.
It tells the story of how Texascame into being.
I actually rode up there oneday.
Now, see, I went on a trip toBrenham and Washington County,
but I also live about an hourand a half away near Houston, so
one day I took my motorcycleroad up there and went to the
(02:06):
museum separately.
It was fascinating, I enjoyedit tremendously and, like I said
, it's got about 10,000 feet ofexhibitions that tell the story
of how Texas came into being.
There's also Independence Hall,where the Texas Declaration of
Independence was signed in Marchof 1836.
And right next to it isBarrington Plantation.
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Now Barrington Plantation isthe home of Dr Anson Jones.
He was the last president ofTexas and today you can visit
that plantation and kind of stepback in time and see what life
was like in the early days ofTexas.
It's actually manned bycostumed I guess you can say
guides and interpreters thatwork for the farm daily and do
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the daily chores and daily lifeon the farm, and so you can stop
and talk to them.
I'll tell you how things had tobe worked during those times
and what they did to keep thefarm running and what people had
to go through.
You can also stop by FanthorpeInn.
Now Fanthorpe Inn is an 18-roomstagecoach inn from the 1830s,
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and all of this is located atWashington-on-the-Brazos State
Historic Site and just realnearby there, and Brenham is
kind of the center.
It's definitely the largesttown, the largest city in
Washington County and it's thecounty seat.
I guess here's a fun tipBrenham was named after Dr
Richard Fox Brenham, which was ahero of the Texas Revolution,
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so it's no surprise that thetown itself is, you know,
steeped in all kinds of Texaspride.
Another little town nearby toBrenham is Chappel Hill, and
Chappel Hill is home to theannual Blue Bonnet Festival and
that attracts thousands ofpeople each year.
It's the Blue Bonnet capitaland the best time to visit
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Chappel Hill, or any time aroundBrenham, is actually in the
spring because all thewildflowers are blooming.
And Chappel Hill is just thislittle bitty town right off of
Highway 290.
And 290 runs between Houstonand Austin and a lot of people
just zip right through there.
But if you stop and take aChappel, Hill is a fascinating
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little town.
I mean, they've got ahistorical museum and you learn
all about the town's history,including its cotton and cattle
heritage.
Like I said, it's home to theannual Blue Bonnet Festival and
there's also something calledthe Scarecrow Festival and it
attracts thousands of peopleeach year to those things.
And it's also home to one of myfavorite sausages, Chappel Hill
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Sausage, and actually that'swhere they make it at.
They have a store there.
They also have a restaurantthat serves their famous sausage
plus barbecue and other items,but it's one of the best
store-bought sausages that youcan find in Texas and they make
it right there in Chappel Hill.
Every time I go through there Istop and pick some up.
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Another town nearby that a lotof people don't know about and
it's a shame is calledIndependence Texas, and
Independence has got probably Idon't know less than 200 people
live in town.
It's got one light and,thinking back on it, I'm not
sure if it's just a cautionlight or a stoplight.
That's on the main highwayrunning through town and there's
a couple of streets on eitherside of it, but it is a
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fascinating town.
In fact, independence Texas ishome to the very first
university in Texas, and thatuniversity is Baylor.
Baylor University has itsbeginnings in Independence Texas
and you can visit the site ofthe original Baylor campus Now
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today Baylor's in Waco, but backthen it was in Independence.
The old Baylor Park is thereand you can stroll among the
historic ruins and enjoy picnicspots under ancient oak trees.
And I came across Independenceand I was like I never knew that
Baylor University started inIndependence, Texas.
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Sam Houston also lived inIndependence in the 1850s and
his widow bought a house therein 1864 where she lived out her
remaining years.
The house is still standingright on one of the main roads
and it's in the NationalRegister of Historic Places.
Margaret Lee Houston she's alsoburied in the Independence, or
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she's buried in Independence atthe Family Cemetery which is
right across the road from theBaptist Church where she and Sam
attended church.
Now the Baptist Church is theoldest operating Baptist church
in Texas, which is why BaylorUniversity was founded in
Independence.
Since Baylor started as aBaptist and still is, it's a
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Baptist university and now Texas.
If you've ever traveled much inthe state of Texas, they have a
lot of historic markers.
They're all over the state.
They commemorate everything,events and anything of historic
significance of a place, and Ialways enjoy reading them.
You'll find them on highwaysand in towns and everything.
They're all over the place andthere's a lot of historic
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markers in the little town ofIndependence.
In fact they have about 40,which is a lot for a town with a
population of less than 200.
There's a little general storethere that serves up some great
food and you can stop, getsomething to eat there, fill up
with gas.
You can drive around town.
It doesn't take more than about10 minutes to drive all through
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the town and you can see littlehistoric markers sitting
outside a house that will tellyou that back in the 1800s this
house was owned by somebody whohappens to be a famous historic
figure from Texas past andsomebody else lives there now.
They don't mind you stoppingand taking pictures.
Just you know, be mindfulbecause somebody does live there
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.
But Independence is only about15 minutes outside of Brenham.
Great little drive down thecountry road and you can spend a
couple hours just wanderingthrough town and looking at all
the historic aspects of it.
Now, just outside ofIndependence is a place called
the Antique Rose Emporium andthe Antique Rose Emporium is
actually a nursery.
That's also a huge windingwalking trail of roses.
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It's a garden.
It's filled with historic andnative roses and it is a perfect
spot just to walk around andstroll and get some stunning
photos.
The Antique Rose Emporium andthey actually they sell roses.
They would probably appreciateit if you bought some, but
you're free to walk in there andjust walk around and take
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photos.
It was actually founded in 1983.
It's just outside Independenceand it was founded on the idea
of preserving the old gardenroses from years and years ago.
So now they have over 300different and unique varieties
of roses, some you can't findanywhere else.
It's worth a stop.
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If you like the outdoors,washington County has plenty to
offer.
I mean, during the spring thearea transformed into a sea of
bluebonnets.
All those photos you see fromTexas in the springtime of the
bluebonnets and the fields ofthem the majority of them are
taken in Washington County,making it one of the most
popular spots for wildflowerenthusiasts.
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The Texas Bluebonnet Trail is amust-drive route and you'll
find plenty of scenic spots tostop and take your photos.
And if you like outdooractivities, especially water
activities, lake Somerville is afantastic destination.
You can go fishing, kayaking oreven set up camp for the
weekend, and it's surrounded byhiking and biking trails, if
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you're a little more adventurous.
I don't do that too much anymore.
My knees are shot and I justdon't do a lot of hiking and
trail walking.
I did it one time.
Nowadays I prefer to just drivepast him and say, oh, isn't
that pretty.
Look at that fellow out there.
He's walking.
Good for him, not me, my kneesare shot.
So now let's talk about a fewof the other places that you
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just absolutely cannot miss whenyou visit Brenham.
First up, we have the iconicBluebell Creameries.
Bluebell founded in 1907.
It actually began as a BrenhamCreamery Company and started
making butter from the excesscream from local farmers.
They later started making icecream and delivered it by horse
(10:44):
and wagon.
It was in 1930 that the companychanged its name to Bluebell
Creameries after the nativeTexas Bluebell Wildflower.
And in 1980, bluebell decidedto start selling outside of the
state of Texas for the firsttime, and it's now sold in 23
different states.
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You ask any true Texan what'syour favorite brand of ice cream
, they'll tell you Blue Bell.
It's an iconic Texas brand andif you're a fan of ice cream
then honestly I mean it's a mustvisit.
You can take a tour of thefactory and learn all about its
rich history and, of course,sample some of their creamy,
delicious creations.
(11:24):
They even have a gift shopthere.
You can pick up some Blue Bellswag and impress your friends
and downtown Brenham.
Well, it's just full of charm.
It's got beautifully preservedbuildings, boutique shops and
art galleries and localrestaurants.
There's actually two livetheaters in town that put on
live plays and they're sold outall the time.
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People drive from Houston anhour and a half just to go to
these plays and they get somepretty good attendance there.
But not only that, they getsome I don't know well, they're
not nationally known, butthey're well-known in the state
of Texas and local area actorsthat come to do these things.
And on the first Friday of eachmonth there's a farmer's market
market and they've got livemusic and local goods.
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There's a lot of history ofBrenham itself.
In fact, there's a little parkin Brenham called Tobin Park.
They first told me about it,told me how to get there, so I'm
walking down there to look atit.
I get to it, I'd rather be.
Well, this is a park.
It's actually, you got toimagine, two parallel streets in
a small country town.
In between the streets there'sa little alley.
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Well, that alley is Tobin Parkand it's, like I said, bordered
by two streets.
But Tobin Park will tell youthe story of early Brenham and
the history of their cisterns.
Now, because of my Texas accent.
I want to make sure youunderstand what I'm talking
about.
Cisterns C-I-S-T-E-R-N-S.
Beneath Brenham Streets is astate archaeological landmark.
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It's a large system of historiccisterns.
They were built in the late1800s to store rainwater for
public firefighting and theywere so abundant throughout
early Washington County andBrenham.
These cisterns stored water andit was used for bathing,
drinking and cooking.
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Now you got to remember thiswas the late 1800s and a large
system of public cisterns was ararity.
The city was considered veryprogressive for using these new
fango contraptions to fightfires.
No other Texas cities wereknown to install public cisterns
or to provide public servicesso early.
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And Tobin Park will tell youthe story of not only the
cisterns but early Brenham ahistoric fire that happened in
Brenham at one point, and justthe history of the town itself.
It's a fascinating little parkand there's a couple of benches
you can sit and relax, and rightin the middle of the park is a
cistern that you can look downthat's covered with glass that
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you can look down into and seeit.
But Brenham itself has a lot ofhistory.
In fact they've got somethingcalled the Brenham Heritage
Museum.
It's a great museum.
You step back in time andexplore the history of Brenham
and the surrounding area withall their exhibits.
They've got several permanentexhibits and some rotating
exhibits.
They're adding new stuff allthe time.
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It's in a big, huge building.
It used to be the.
I think it used to be thefederal building for the post
office or something years ago.
But it's a big building rightnear downtown, right next to the
Brenham Fire Museum, and youcan't miss this one.
I mean, I discovered it thefirst time I ever went to
Brenham.
I'm driving past I'm like whoa,wait a minute, let me pull in
here.
This looks cool.
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The Brenham Fire Museumactually is in an old Brenham
firehouse, but outside thefirehouse but outside the
firehouse, in the parking lot,in a glass encased showpiece, is
an old horse drawn fire truck.
I'm like this is so cool.
I mean you walk up to it andsee it.
It's fabulous.
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But inside the fire departmentbuilding itself there's several
old fire trucks, very rare andhistoric fire trucks, and it's a
cool museum.
It's open all the time.
Just go in there, write yourname down, walk around and look
at everything.
There's nobody in there banningit, unless you can call them
and get a guided tour or if youhave a group coming or something
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, but other than that, there'ssomebody that comes in, opens it
up in the morning, closes itdown at night and you're free to
walk in there and look aroundand explore the place.
Brenham also has another veryhistoric item in town.
It's called the Flying HorsesAntique Carousel.
It is a restored carousel withhand-carved horses located at
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Fireman's Park, which is a parkin Brenham, and the Flying
Horses Carousel is one of onlyfive surviving classic wood
carousels that exist in Texas.
It's still open, it still runsand you take your kids and they
can ride this historic carousel.
According to the NationalCarousel Association, brenham's
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Flying Horses Carousel is theoldest in Texas and one of the
few remaining carouselsconsisting of horses hand-carved
by Charles W Dare, who was likeone of the famous carvers of
horse carousels years and yearsand years ago.
It's a fantastic carousel.
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I mean, it's just somethingabout simple times from years
gone past.
You can take your kids thereand tell them to put down their
iPhone and get off their socialmedia accounts and just enjoy
riding this old carousel fromyears ago, and it's really cool.
It's a beautiful carousel and,of course, you can't visit
Brenham without indulging insome of the local foods and
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drinks.
If we start with the food scene,one of the best places you can
go to get some barbecue is aplace called Truth Barbecue.
It's been named one of the bestbarbecue spots in the state and
if you're in the mood forsomething lighter, you can head
to a place called Must Be Heavenfor their sandwiches and famous
pies and, of course, blue Bellice cream that they serve up and
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for a really good burger, andI'm talking a good burger.
You got to go to this spotcalled the Dairy Bar and it's
what looks like an old DairyQueen building and they have
some of the best hamburgers youwill ever eat and you can't be
in a hurry and you can't beimpatient, since they only have
a couple of people doing thecooking, and when I was there,
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there was two ladies out fronttaking the orders, and they are
always busy.
I mean, I stopped by and therewere about 10 or 11 cars lined
up and five or six peoplestanding inside waiting to order
, and it's just a locally owned,flat out good hamburger joint.
I always, every time I travelsomewhere, I like to stop at
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these little small hamburgerplaces or locally owned little
restaurants that have beenaround for a while that
everybody says you got to gothere, they got the best burger
man, and all it is is a littleold hole in the wall in a lot of
cases.
This one is like I said it's inan old Dairy Queen building and
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that hamburger was delicious.
So do yourself a favor Look upthe Dairy Bar when you get to
Brenham.
It's on a little side streetright off of Highway 290.
There's nothing else next to it.
It's just off a little two-laneroad but there'll be a mess of
cars out there.
That place is popular.
Washington County also has a lotof wineries and breweries.
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I mean Washington County hassome excellent wineries.
They also have the BrazosValley Brewing Company, which is
a local favorite.
I stopped by there.
They've got craft beers andpretty good food and a lot of
outdoor space.
They have events and live musicgoing on all the time there.
I enjoyed my visit going overto that place and, like I said,
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there are a few winers in thearea.
Now, I didn't visit any of them, but I heard a lot of good
things from people that likewine and go to them.
I don't know much about wine,I'm more of a beer or whiskey
guy, but check them out ifyou're in the area and you enjoy
wine.
Evidently there are some reallynice ones.
Now Brenham, texas, like I said,is halfway not halfway, but
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it's on the way between Houstonand Austin, right off of Highway
290.
And most people just fly rightthrough there.
Slow down a little bit,hopefully they don't get caught
speeding and you don't see anyof it, because all you're seeing
is the outskirts of town.
On the highway you got to getoff 290 and drive into the town
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of Brenham.
That is where everythinghappens.
That is the heartbeat ofWashington County.
You're going to pass rightthrough Chappel Hill also, but
you're not going to see anything.
You're going to see a gasstation, you're going to see a
sign that says Chapel Hill, butyou got to get off of the
highway a couple of blocks toactually get into Chappel Hill
to see anything.
But Tynan is everything when itcomes to travel, and Brenham is
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no exception.
Now, the best time to visit isin the spring, when the
wildflowers, especially thebluebonnets, are in full bloom.
You can celebrate theanniversary of Texas
Independence the weekend nearestMarch, the 2nd, at
Washington-on-The Brazos StatePark.
There's just all kinds ofthings going on there
Reenactments and just tons ofstuff going on Now.
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Every April the Blue BonnetFestival of Texas in Chappel
Hill takes place and it's anannual celebration of the
state's official flower.
They've got all kinds of food,live entertainment, music and
more than 250 vendors showing upselling their stuff at the
festival.
In May they have the BrenhamMaifest.
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You enjoy food and music and aday full of fun at the Mayfest,
which is an annual festivalhonoring Brenham's rich German
heritage.
They've got a colorful paradethat kicks off the annual event,
including German music, dancers, children's carnival, home
brewing contests and a whole lotmore.
And in September you can attendthe Washington County Fair, the
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oldest county fair in Texas.
Shows and rodeos and music andfun and carnival, and crafts and
food, livestock, poultryauctions, all kinds of exhibits
and attractions.
If you've never been to a Texascounty fair, you should really
check one out.
And what better one to go tothan the one that's the oldest
in the state?
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And as far as accommodations,well, there's all kinds of the
usual rentals you know theAirbnbs and everything and
there's several hotels to pickfrom.
Now I stayed at a place calledAnt Street Inn and it's in a
building.
It's right in downtown Brenham.
It's in a building from 1899.
And that building used to behome to several businesses under
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one roof.
It housed a butcher shop and asaloon, and a feed store and a
dry goods store, along with aballroom and medium rooms.
The owners bought this buildingand refurbished it, keeping
with the historic charm.
When you go in, there's arestaurant on the bottom floor,
along with a check-in desk andarea.
There.
The rooms 15 of them are allupstairs, decorated in period
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pieces, with each room having atheme of some sort.
Now I stayed in the Memphis Roomand it is a southeast corner
room.
It has exposed brick walls andseven windows, all looking out
on the brim, and includes theoriginal 120 year old freight
elevator from the days of theoriginal smith brothers
mercantile.
The elevator doesn't work but Imean it's really cool.
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It sits right in the middle ofyour room.
There you walk in and there's afreight elevator looking at you
.
There's rooms that that have apoker table set up for poker in
them.
It's just a fantastic hotel andyou can walk out onto the
second floor porch where there'srocking chairs and just enjoy
the afternoon, looking out atthe courtyard and parts of
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Brenham.
I mean it's just a great hotel.
I enjoyed that and the foodthere is pretty good at the
restaurant.
So here's a couple of tips whenyou're going to Brenham in
Washington County.
First, bring a camera, becausethere's wildflowers photos or
you're going to want to getthose, and there's just so many
opportunities for really greatphotos, whether it's in
Independence, Chappel Hill,Washington on the Brazos,
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brenham or little town of Burton, which is nearby also.
There's just, it's just tons ofopportunities.
So make sure you bring a cameraor just use your phone.
If you want to use your phone,plan your trip around local
events and festivals toexperience the very best that
the area has to offer.
And Brenham's just a short drivefrom all major cities Well, not
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all.
El Paso would be quite a haul,but it's really not that far
from Dallas or Austin or SanAntonio or Houston.
It's about an hour and a halfoutside Houston, about an hour
and a half to Austin, maybe twohours to San Antonio and about
three to Dallas, and that'sdriving distance in Texas.
It makes for a great weekendgetaway and if you went over
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there for a weekend you couldsee just about all the major
stuff.
You could spend a few hours inIndependence, head over to
Washington on the Brazos.
Next day, hit Chappel Hill andvisit everything in Brenham.
Well, that wraps up our journeyto Brenham and Washington
County today.
And from the historic landmarksto all the scenic wildflower
trails, not to mention the icecream, this Texas treasure truly
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has something for everyone.
I still enjoy visiting there.
Every time I get a chance, I'lljust run up there and spend the
afternoon.
So if you get a chance,definitely visit Rich in Texas.
History, great food, bluebellice cream and a whole bunch of
really nice people to show youaround, tell you all about the
place.
So thank you for tuning in tothe Traveling Fool.
(24:51):
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