November 25, 2025 • 37 mins
Following on from last week’s episode, we follow Lauren’s UK sabbatical as it shifts from a teen-led literary road trip to a soulful pilgrimage in Pembrokeshire and a belated honeymoon through the Brecon Beacons and Cotswolds. From ancient holy wells and monastic islands to bookshop hunts and crowd-beating tips, this episode celebrates slow, meaningful travel across Britain.
• Why a pilgrimage and how to choose a route with the British Pilgrimage Trust
• Highlights of the Way of St David from Fishguard to St Davids
• Staying at St Non’s Retreat Centre as a peaceful home base
• Caldey Island stillness, monastic history, and handmade chocolate
• Brecon Beacons hikes with Tolkien links and sweeping views
• Hay-on-Wye bookshop discoveries and literary nostalgia
• Chipping Campden base and a 12-mile Cotswold Way walk
• Managing August crowds, parking, and small-group Cotswolds tours
• Off-the-beaten-path ideas like the Rollright Stones
• Final advice: pack light, walk slow, stay open
⭐️ Guest - Lauren Eanes
📝 Show Notes - Episode 177
🎧 Listen to next:
- Episode #176 - A Literary-Themed UK Family Adventure (Part 1) – Planning a Trip with Teens with Lauren Eanes
- Episode #52 – Exploring North Wales: An Introduction with Doug Collins
- Episode #143 – Experience North Wales: Outdoor Adventures, Gastronomy, and Historical Wonders
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Transcript
Episode Transcript
Available transcripts are automatically generated. Complete accuracy is not guaranteed.
SPEAKER_02 (00:00):
In last week's episode, guest Lauren Eanes
shared the first part of her UKsabbatical, a literally focused
itinerary around southernEngland with her husband and
four kids.
But that was only the beginning.
In this episode, find out whathappened when the kids flew home
and Lauren embarked on stagestwo and three of her journey,
including a pilgrimage along thePembrokeshire coast and a
postponed honeymoon escape tothe Cotsworld.
SPEAKER_00 (00:24):
Welcome to the UK Travel Planning Podcast.
Your host is the founder of theUK travel planning website,
Tracy Collins.
Each week, Tracy sharesdestination guides, travel tips
and itinerary ideas, as well asinterviews with a variety of
guests who share their knowledgeand experience of UK travel to
help you plan your perfect UKvacation.
Join us as we explore the UKfrom cosmopolitan cities to
(00:46):
quaint villages, from historiccastles to beautiful islands,
from the picturesque countrysideto seaside towns.
SPEAKER_02 (00:58):
Hi and welcome to this week's episode of the UK
Travel Panel Podcast.
Now, last week, in episode 176,you heard from listener Lauren
Eanes about the first stage ofher sabbatical, a literary
themed adventure throughsouthern England with her
husband and four children.
Now, in this episode, we'regoing to pick up the story as
Lauren's sabbatical takes a verydifferent turn.
(01:21):
So after waving the kids off atHeathrow, she and her husband
embarked on the next chapters oftheir journey.
Hi, Lauren.
It's fantastic to have you onthe podcast again this week,
because you were on last week.
Tell us all about your fantastictrip with the children.
With your kids, not children, Ishouldn't call them children,
they're teenagers, they weren'tlike that, I know.
(01:42):
And you saw a teenager clear onepoint and they were like, excuse
me, children, with yourteenagers last week, all about
uh your uh literary tour of ofEngland, which was amazing, and
your trip over to Paris.
But after that, the kids wenthome and you continued your trip
around England and actually wentto Wales as well.
(02:02):
So, would you like to give us abrief introduction again for
anybody who hasn't listened?
But I know after thatintroduction they'll be going to
be rewinding to listen to lastweek's for sure.
But if anybody didn't listen,would you like to just give us a
quick introduction aboutyourself again, please?
SPEAKER_01 (02:17):
Yeah, so my name is Lauren Eanes and I live in
Harrisonburg, Virginia.
I am a Lutheran pastor who wason sabbatical this past summer,
and my family and I used thattime to travel to the UK.
SPEAKER_02 (02:31):
Yeah, they you did, and you had a fantastic time uh
with the kids doing all the uhliterary stuff, which was
amazing.
Right.
So now pick us up from when thethe kids went home.
SPEAKER_01 (02:43):
Yeah, so um yeah, the the short answer of what
happened next is we we took atrain to Wales.
Uh we waited until we knew theirplane had taken off.
Uh and and for those who areworried about our kids, my aunt
was on the plane with them.
Um I think they were like prettyseasoned travelers at that
(03:04):
point.
They could have handled it justfine on their own.
Uh but yeah, it was kind ofstrange leaving them at the
airport.
Uh, and it was a big shift to gofrom traveling with four
teenagers and corrallingeveryone and managing the
schedule and the travel andeverything to a much slower form
(03:25):
of travel, doing a lot ofwalking uh with just adults.
SPEAKER_02 (03:29):
Okay, so yeah, so the focus of your sabbatical
changed.
So uh I know you did now apilgrimage walk at this point,
and this is why you went intoWales.
So, would you want to talk to usabout why you did that walk and
how you did you decide on thelocation of that pilgrimage?
SPEAKER_01 (03:46):
Yeah, so um let me just say a little bit about what
a pilgrimage is, in case peopleare like, what is she even
talking about?
So a really short definition isjust a walk with purpose.
You know, it's a journey that'susually on foot along a path,
often to a sacred place.
(04:06):
And it's just an opportunity toget out of your ordinary daily
life and walk with intention.
And I really wanted to do that,um, to just um be open to new
discoveries and insight andtransformation that walking
through the countryside canbring.
(04:27):
Um I'd had some friends who'ddone the Camino in Spain, uh the
Camino de Santiago, and reallygotten a lot out of that.
And um, and I knew that therewere a lot of old medieval
pilgrimage walks in the UK.
And so I thought while we werethere, I wanted to take
advantage of that.
Uh so I went on the uh BritishPilgrimage Trust website, uh,
(04:52):
which is just, I think it'sBritishpilgrimage.org.
And I highly recommend anyonewho wants to do a pilgrimage in
Britain to start there.
It's a really good website,wealth of information with a ton
of different routes.
And you can search by like thelength of the walk you want to
do, or the part of the country,or the type of pilgrimage that
you want to do, which was kindof overwhelming because there's
(05:14):
a lot of different options.
So it was hard to decide.
Like I just knew I wanted to doa pilgrimage, but from there I
wasn't sure.
And I was actually, I was in thelibrary one day flipping through
a book that had just thesegorgeous photos of different
places in the UK.
And I saw a picture of thePembrokeshire coast, and I was
(05:34):
just captivated.
I was like, where is this?
I need to go there.
And I looked at the map and Iwas like, oh, this is at like
the tippy little corner of farcoast of Wales.
It's nowhere where we wereplanning to be traveling.
So I thought, oh well, you know,I'll put that on the list for a
future trip.
But then I was a few days later,I was back on the pilgrimage,
British Pilgrimage Trust pageand looking for walks that were
(05:58):
like five to seven days long.
And the way of Saint Davidpopped up.
And so I'm reading about it, andthe description says that part
of the path followed thePembrokeshire Coast Path.
And I was like, oh my gosh,that's that beautiful place from
that book.
I knew nothing about Saint Davidat that point, had never heard
(06:20):
of him before.
It turns out he's the patronsaint of Wales, so he's kind of
important, but I didn't knowanything.
Um, but I started reading abouthis story and reading about the
root itself, and it just grabbedme.
I thought, this is what we needto do.
Completely different.
I had never been to Wales.
(06:42):
And then I uh discovered thatthe feast day for Saint David,
the day that that he celebratedin the church, is March 1st.
And that is my father-in-law'sbirthday.
So I thought, all right, well,that's a fun coincidence.
Like I think this is it.
This is what we're gonna do.
SPEAKER_02 (06:59):
Oh, that's fantastic.
And of course, you and yourhusband were joined by both of
your parents, both sets ofparents for a week.
So, how did that come about andwhat was it like to travel with
them?
SPEAKER_01 (07:09):
Yeah.
So as a pastor, my job takes meaway from my family a lot.
And so I knew I wanted mysabbatical time to involve and
include as much family aspossible.
So, you know, we did the coupleweeks with the kids, and then I
invited my husband's parents andmy dad to join us on this part
(07:33):
of the adventure.
I just thought it would be ameaningful thing for us to do
together, uh, which it very muchwas.
Um, and we traveled really welltogether and we bonded a lot,
and it it just really brought usall a lot closer together.
SPEAKER_02 (07:48):
Oh, I can imagine.
I can imagine that was a reallyspecial thing to do as well, and
fantastic memories as well, thatyou're gonna look back on about
you know, doing that walktogether.
So tell us about walking the St.
David's Way along that coast.
What were the highlights ormemorable moments?
SPEAKER_01 (08:06):
How much time do you have?
I could we could do like afive-hour long podcast and then
I'd still be talking about it.
So I'll try to, I'll try to umkeep keep it uh timely here.
But so the complete route wasfrom we started like near
Fishguard um and and walked tothe city of St.
(08:29):
David's.
And so it was about 30 miles ofwalking that we did over four
days.
Um, we the route began at uh St.
Gwendol's Church, which wasfounded in the sixth century.
And right by the church is um aholy well that that predates
(08:50):
Christianity.
It was a well that that peoplewere going to.
It had purported healing powersfor you know millennia, which is
incredible.
And it's it's a well thatancient pilgrims from the eighth
century following the same pathuh would have stopped at to wash
(09:12):
their feet and take a breakalong the way.
Uh so it just being in a placewith such deep history and
incredible continuity andconnection with the past was so
powerful.
And just feeling that connectionwith people who have been
walking the same path forhundreds of years, like seeing
(09:35):
the Celtic cross carved into astone from the eighth century
that has been a marker and awaypost on this pilgrimage path
for centuries.
I mean, it's still there.
It is so profound to feel thatconnection.
Um yeah, it it that part of itwas just incredible.
(09:57):
And then there's just like thenatural beauty of the place,
these dramatic cliffs and thecraggy hills and the sandy
beaches and the little coves androck pools and the beautiful
little harbors.
I I felt like I had to stop likeevery 50 feet and take a photo
because the view had changedagain and was just so beautiful
(10:20):
again.
So that was just incredible.
We were really lucky withweather, too.
Um, we really didn't have anyrain at all.
There were a couple of times ofincredibly light drizzle, but
very few.
So beautiful days.
We saw wildlife, we saw a youngkestrel in his nest, we saw a
(10:44):
seal pup that had just beenborn.
Um, we were there in late July,so it was like really, really
early for seal pupping season,which is more like September
typically, but but we did seesome, and that was just magical.
Um, we learned about a lot ofthe endangered species,
especially the birds.
We saw a lot of chuff, um, whichwas heartening because that's a
(11:08):
species that's been struggling,and so just that connection to
the earth and nature waswonderful.
Um, and we also just had a lotof fun.
We stopped at the melantriguentwool mill and we watched them
weave.
And of course, then we purchasedsome souvenirs, which it's not
(11:32):
cheap, but it was uh that wasreally cool.
Um, we went to the blue lagoonand my crazy husband actually
jumped off the ledge, you know,about 25 feet up in the air into
that cold, cold, cold water,which was a highlight for him.
It was a highlight for us too.
We were standing there on theshore cheering him on.
(11:52):
And nobody was tempted to joinhim.
No, I was I was a little bittempted, but not a lot.
I I was happy to take the video.
It was it was all right.
Uh so and then, you know, theplace that we ended up was the
city of St.
David's, um, which is thesmallest city in the UK.
(12:13):
Uh, and only really called acity because it has a cathedral.
But it's just the a delightfullittle town.
And the cathedral ismagnificent, you know, again, a
place of just deep, deep historyand gorgeous art and
architecture, and a realpalpable sense of of
spirituality.
(12:34):
So yeah, everything about it wasjust magical.
SPEAKER_02 (12:37):
Uh, it does sound amazing.
I have to say, I I was in uh onthe island of Iona a few years
ago, and uh and just seeing thethe crosses there and that that
then that sort of walk aroundthe island, that that was also
it's amazing.
You kind of cannot I mean I grewup in the UK, so I have that
kind of sense of you know havingthose thousands and thousands of
years of history, but evenstill, it still is kind of like
(12:59):
pretty awe-inspiring when youwhen you see something like
that.
Um now I know at the end you youstayed in St.
Non's retreat and at St.
Davis, is that right?
So, how was that?
SPEAKER_01 (13:09):
Yeah.
Well, so there are differentways to do a pilgrimage, right?
And so one is that you know, youtake everything you need for the
week and you put it in your packand you walk seven or eight
miles each day, and then youstop to sleep in a campground or
a guest house or something, andthen you get up the next day and
you keep going.
And we did it a littledifferently in that we had a
(13:30):
home base that we returned toevery night.
Um, so we would, you know, doour walk and then we'd go back
to the retreat center, and thenthe next day we'd go back to
where we left off the daybefore.
So we stayed at St.
Nan's retreat center.
It's a really special place.
It's right on the coast, and soyou just have these amazing
(13:52):
views, and you just you walkinto the guest house, and it's
you just feel warmth andhospitality and peace.
And it's right on the thePembrokeshire Coast path and
part of the pilgrimage route.
So St.
Non was the mother of SaintDavid, and on the grounds of the
(14:14):
retreat center are the ruins ofSaint Non's chapel, which they
can't date with any certainty,but it's definitely one of the
oldest buildings associated withChristianity in Wales.
And it has this large stone witha Celtic cross engraved in it
that they've dated to like the7th or 8th century.
And adjacent to that is anotherholy well, which again would
(14:36):
have been one of the main stopsof medieval pilgrims who would
do this pilgrimage.
So, again, it's just a placethick with history and and
meaning.
So it's cool to just be there.
Um, and it was just a greatplace to stay too.
The hosts are a delightfulmarried couple, and they fed us
delicious food for breakfast anddinner, and they gave us a
(14:56):
packed lunch before we left eachday.
And the beds were comfortableand the showers were hot, and I
can't recommend it highlyenough.
So, yeah, originally I had notwanted to do it the way we did.
Like I wanted to just like walkand stop and then get up and
keep going.
But in the end, I was reallyglad that we had a home base to
(15:18):
return to each night and kind ofreflect on the day and be fed
meals.
And and then, you know, so onlyhave to carry day packs and not
have to carry like all thethings was really nice.
And there are things, you know,when you're doing a pilgrimage,
you can also have it set up thatlike your bag is transported to
your next stop.
Um, but that all seemed toocomplicated.
(15:41):
So this actually worked outreally, really well.
SPEAKER_02 (15:43):
I I like the sound of that.
I'm not I'm not a massive fan ofkind of walking anywhere, but if
I was gonna do it, I like theway that you've done it.
I'm kind of well known for that.
But now, after this, where didyou go?
I think you went to you went tosomewhere for a couple of days.
SPEAKER_01 (15:56):
Yeah, so we went to Caldi Islands, which you
mentioned Iona.
Caldy is another one of the UK'sholy islands, like Iona and
Bardsey, um, and Holy Island,um, Lindisfarne.
So Caldy is is is a specialplace.
It's we so when we were donewith our pilgrimage, we went
(16:19):
from St.
David's to Tenby.
And Caldy Island's about a mileoff the coast of Tenby.
And so it's actually really easyto do a day trip to Caldi.
A lot of people who are onholiday in Tenby will just go
over for a few hours and enjoy.
Um, but you can also stay there,which is what we did, uh, again,
at a retreat center called St.
(16:39):
Philomena's, which again justhad you know private, simple but
very comfortable rooms anddelicious meals were included.
Um, and there are some wonderfulwalking trails on the island.
And so we continued to do a lotof walking there.
Um, and there's also, again,just some rich history.
(17:02):
A Celtic monastery was foundedon the island in the 6th
century, which again, like likeyou said, like you're from the
UK, so you're kind of used tohaving old things around you.
Being from the US, like this isreally old.
And so it's just pretty powerfulto see that and experience that.
Um, one of the things they havein the old priory, it's called
(17:25):
the Caldi Stone.
And it's this big stone they'vedated to the sixth century that
has inscriptions in both Latinand in Ogum, which is like an
ancient script that originatedin Ireland.
So it's just fascinating.
Um, and Caldi also has woodlandsto walk through.
They have red squirrels on theisland, which is fun.
(17:46):
There's a beautiful, yeah,there's a beautiful sandy beach.
Um so it's just a place apart torelax and and have rest and and
peace.
Oh, and the monks have achocolate factory.
This is there's a uh a um uhsisterian monastery now on the
(18:08):
island, and the way that theyhelp to fund their ministry is
through making chocolate and thedark chocolate in particular,
phenomenal.
So if you go to Caldi, if you donothing else, get some
chocolate.
SPEAKER_02 (18:23):
Sounds good.
So now did your parents go withyou as well to the island?
They did.
So how how was that after thewalk-in to have those few days
of kind of I guess chilling outand relaxing?
SPEAKER_01 (18:33):
Yeah, it was just it was wonderful.
You know, life, everyday life isso busy.
And to be able to just step awayfrom the busyness and just be
and just be together, you know.
I mean, that's something thatI'll really treasure forever.
SPEAKER_02 (18:53):
Absolutely.
So now after that, your parentsdid they go back to the states
or did they continue a bit oftravel around the UK?
SPEAKER_01 (19:00):
Yeah, they went back to the states.
They had done some travelingbefore they met up with us uh in
various places in the UK.
And so they at that point theirjourney was done.
SPEAKER_02 (19:12):
Now, I know you continued on, and um, I was so
pleased to find out that youstopped on at Hey on Y, which is
you had to, with your love ofliterary love, you had to have
stopped there.
So, how did you find Hey?
Did you enjoy it?
SPEAKER_01 (19:26):
Yeah, so so this sort of began the the third part
of our adventure, um, which wasa bit of a belated honeymoon.
Uh, my husband and I got marriedin 2019, and we had planned on
doing a honeymoon to theCotswolds in 2020.
And we all know what happenedthen.
So we thought, okay, well, weneed to do our honeymoon.
(19:49):
So that's that's what we didafter we left Tenbu, we we
rented a car and we drovethrough the Brecon Beacons, and
I was very determined to get toHeionwai before we went over to
the Cotswolds.
And um, I mean, it was greatjust getting there, driving,
observing the landscape and andhow it changed from the coast
(20:10):
was really cool.
And yeah, Heianwai did notdisappoint.
It we only had a few hoursthere, unfortunately, um, which
is nowhere near enough time toexplore all the bookstores, but
we we did our best to getthrough as many as we could.
Um, and we did our best to notbuy too many books because we
knew we had to transport themhome.
(20:31):
Um, but yeah, we we got an earlyedition Jennings book, and I got
a copy of um E.
H.
Shepherd's Drawn from Memory,which is sort of about his
growing up in London.
Um, we got an like an old butbut really good condition
Dickens.
Um, so yeah, it it the books wegot connected to the travels
(20:54):
that we had done a few weeksearlier, and um, and I got a few
books on Celtic spiritualitybecause I wanted to continue to
explore that after having livedit for a week.
So yeah.
Love Hay on Why, would love togo back, would love to go for
the festival that they do eachyear.
Ugh, that would be amazing.
SPEAKER_02 (21:13):
It it really is full of bookshops.
You kind of say that to people,but then you actually go and
it's oh, there's just so manyamazing bookshops in Hay.
So if you if you like books,that's the place to go.
But uh you also did a bit of,was it did you do a little bit
of hiking before you went to Hayon Why?
I'm guessing you did.
So um what yeah.
Was that a bit different, Iguess, from doing the coastal
hike?
SPEAKER_01 (21:33):
Yeah.
So we um we hiked in the BreckenBeacons.
We we went to Taliban on Usk,which part of why we went there
is that it's said that that areainspired Tolkien.
The Black Mountains reallyinspired him for his writing in
Lord of the Rings.
Um so that was fun to do thathike.
(21:55):
We did a circular trail thattook us along the canal there,
and then up a hill and over aridge.
So we got beautiful views of theUsk Valley and the Black
Mountains, and then we went backdown to the valley and the
Taliban Reservoir, which wasbeautiful.
So there's just a variety ofscenery all along the way, and
(22:17):
that was that was great.
It was like five or six miles.
It wasn't a super long hike, butit gave us a good taste of a lot
of different things.
SPEAKER_02 (22:24):
Wow, that's great.
So you I I love the fact you'veyou've got such a lot of variety
in your trip, you really have.
Um, and so now you head to thecotswold.
So let's let's have a chat abouthow that went.
So I think you headed to wereyou staying in Chip and Camden?
SPEAKER_01 (22:39):
Yeah, so that was our home base, and that was a
great base for exploring theCotswolds.
It's big enough that it's gotlike great pubs and great shops,
but it wasn't too overrun withtourists while we were there.
It was just a great littlemarket town with a lot of
character and a great place touse as our home base.
SPEAKER_02 (23:00):
Uh no, I agree.
I like I I do also like uhChipmunk Camden.
Unfortunately, some of the umCotswold's uh towns and villages
are becoming a bit of a victimof their own success, so they're
getting extremely busy.
But I think Chipmont Camden wasa was a a good a good choice.
And obviously it's the start orthe end, whichever we're looking
at, I think it's probably thestart of the Cotswold Way.
So yeah, did you do a bit ofwalking on the Cotswold Way as
(23:22):
well?
SPEAKER_01 (23:23):
We we did a bit, we did a lot, actually, in one day.
We we walked about 12 miles.
Oh wow, which was kind of kindof crazy.
That was our longest uh walkingday, but but and by that point,
right, it had been a month.
And when we were traveling withthe kids, I mean we were doing,
you know, 15,000, 20,000 steps aday in cities and things, and
(23:43):
then we, you know, we're doingseven or nine miles of hiking.
So by this point, we built upsome some good muscles in our
legs, and we uh we ended up, wetook the bus down to Stanton and
then walked the Cotswold wayback up to Chipping Camden.
And so yeah, it was it was itwas long, but every step was
(24:07):
worth it.
It was really great.
I loved that day.
Um, Stanton has the most, I meanit's just a little teeny
village, but it has the mostincredible little church that is
definitely worth stopping in if,like me, you're into old
churches.
Um, I think by that point myhusband was a little tired of
old churches, but I was like,we're stopping at the church.
Um so that was great.
(24:28):
And then, you know, the CostwoldWade, like the path is really
clearly marked, and the sceneryis varied and interesting.
Um, and you get to Broadwayabout halfway through the walk,
and that was an excellent timeto stop at a tea shop and have a
cream tea.
We were ready for that.
Yeah.
Um, and we walked up to theBroadway Tower with the
(24:50):
beautiful views from there.
And so, yeah, then when wearrived back in Shipping Camden,
they have the marker that says,like, yeah, this is the terminus
of the Cotswold Way, either thebeginning or the end, depending
on which direction you're doingit.
Um, so even though we'd onlywalked like a little more than a
tenth of the Cotswold Way, westill took our picture.
Like, here we are at the end,because it had been a long walk.
(25:12):
We felt good about that.
SPEAKER_02 (25:15):
I'll tell you a little secret here, Lauren.
I've walked about five meters ofit and I've still got a picture
of myself at the end of that.
SPEAKER_01 (25:22):
I think that counts.
I think that counts.
You were on the Cotswold Way.
SPEAKER_02 (25:27):
Exactly, exactly.
So so now you you went to visitlots of the other.
So you you've mentionedBroadway, it's great.
You went to Broadway, you wentto Broadway Tower, you went to
Stanton, you've stayed in in uhChip and Camden.
So what other towns and villagesdid you go and visit?
Because there's some wonderfulmarket towns as well, like uh
Morton and Stowe.
And oh, so tell me where youwent, what did you love?
SPEAKER_01 (25:49):
Yeah, so we we did spend one day just driving
around and and checking outlittle little towns like that.
And we did, we went to Burton onthe Water and Stowe in the World
and Morton and Marsh.
Um, I'm sad to say I didn't lovethese three towns only because
they were so crowded.
And I really I can't complain.
(26:10):
Like we were two of the touristsmaking it crowded, right?
Um, but but yeah, like you said,they're kind of a victim of
their own success.
And and my guess is that othertimes of the year the towns
would be more enjoyable and moremanageable.
And and we knew going in earlyAugust, it was gonna be busy.
But I was surprised by just howbusy it was.
(26:31):
I I really was.
Um, and that that really diddamper the experience.
Um so yeah, I think like myadvice for people would be don't
go in August.
But but if like us, that's theonly time you have.
Um, we really did.
I I really liked Stow in theWald.
(26:51):
It didn't make me feel quite asclaustrophobic and surrounded by
people.
And we did enjoy the some of theshops there.
And and Burton on the Water, wejust kind of on a whim decided
to go into the motoring museum.
Oh, it's so good.
Oh my gosh, it's so good.
Neither of us are really big,like car people, but we loved
(27:12):
that museum.
It is just a feast for the eyes.
There are interesting cars,there's so much interesting
memorabilia.
It was great.
That was definitely a highlight.
And it wasn't very crowded atall.
So even though you stepped outof the museum and you're there
are mobs of people, thereweren't a lot of people in the
museum.
It was fantastic.
SPEAKER_02 (27:31):
Oh, I'm so glad you mentioned that because I also
Doug and I love the MotionMuseum in in Bournemouth of the
Water.
Now, Borton again has become abit of a victim of its own
success in that it it it doesn'tmatter, to be honest, it doesn't
seem to matter whatever time ofyear.
And I've stayed there in Januaryas well, which I think really
low season.
Still quite busy.
Um, obviously, in the summer itgets like the last time I stayed
(27:52):
there, I think was June.
And of course, that everybody'sgot their feet in the river and
having a little paddle, and um,yeah, and a lot of students also
seem to kind of descend on onbought on the water.
So it yeah, that is becomingreally busy.
The last few times I've actuallystayed in just outside Burford,
and I've also stayed in Stowe.
We really love Stowe becausethat that's just something I
(28:12):
love walking off at the church,and I don't know how many photos
I've had taken of that that thatchurch door.
Yeah, I don't know.
I must I must have about ahundred photos.
You've got to have a photo ofthe church door.
Um so but but it is becomingthat way.
And um did you go to Bibery andthe slaughters, or did you did
you manage to get to them?
SPEAKER_01 (28:30):
We didn't.
By that point, we we were justkind of burned out.
We we had planned to go to theslaughters, but there were just
so many cars on the road, and wewere like, we're it's it
probably was gonna there weregonna be more people there than
we wanted there to be.
And so we were like, we justneed to, we just need to go
back.
And that was our last day beforewe were flying out, and so we're
(28:53):
like, oh, we should probably goback and eat some food and pack
our bags and all that.
SPEAKER_02 (29:00):
No, actually, I I am actually gonna share a tip as
well that um if it because I'msure there's lots of people
listening kind of going, oh, Ireally want to do this, but it I
I don't fancy the A, the amountof crowds there are, but also
the parking situation, uh, whichis why we work with Go
Cotswolds.
Then are there a small group tothat do um company that do to uh
family run that do so you canbasically go out with them and
(29:21):
they do the parking, you don'thave to worry about the parking
and they tell you where you'regoing and you can go and see
some of the smaller faces.
So um because because you saidthe Cotswold is becoming a kind
of bit of a bottleneck with theamount of cars and stuff on the
road, and parking at places likeBiberry can be incredibly
difficult, um, which is why Ikind of say if you if you if you
want to go and see those placesand you don't want to be doing
(29:44):
the drive and doing that, thenthat that's a good option.
So that's worth considering nexttime, Lauren.
Yeah, no, it it definitely wouldbe.
For sure.
Um yeah, so I just want to putthat out there because I know I
don't want to put people offgoing to the the cottswells
because they are beautiful, um,but you do have to kind of Oh,
kind of sometimes fight thecrowds and trying to get parking
can be but can be a bit of aproblem.
(30:05):
But have you got any kind ofadvice apart from not going in
August?
Did you manage to get parkedokay?
And was that all that?
Yeah.
SPEAKER_01 (30:12):
We did.
Um I think probably um Burton onthe water was the most crowded
and hardest to find parking, butwe we did.
Um stow we parked at the um isit a Tesco?
They have a big Tesco, I think,that had that you're allowed to
(30:34):
park there and and walk intotown.
And that was super easy.
Yeah, Morton and Marsh, we hadtrouble finding parking.
Burton, they have a big parkinglot um that that we were able to
find a spot.
That was so parking wasn'tterrible.
There, there were places to parkand and walk into town.
Yeah, I mean, I think just aslong as you're mentally prepared
(30:56):
for the crowds, then you know,you can you can manage it.
There's definitely it'sdefinitely still worth going.
Um, well, we also went to theRoll Wright Stones.
Oh yeah, and that that wasinteresting, uh, and and not
super crowded.
You know, there are a coupleother people there, but um, but
(31:16):
not too many.
And so I think, you know, wewanted to like hit the towns
that that everyone talks about.
And I I think I wish we hadspent more time going a little
more off the beaten track, um,and and seeing some of the
places that aren't as popular,but equally beautiful and
fascinating.
SPEAKER_02 (31:37):
Absolutely.
And there's some there's somethere are there's just so much
to see in the Costwells, andit's a huge area, that's another
thing as well.
Like you were in the kind ofnorthern part, they it that they
just stretch all the way down toBath.
So you've got a massive area uhthat you can explore.
So just another reason to goback, Lauren.
Yes, absolutely.
Now, okay, so this is so you'veyou've this how long is this
(31:58):
you've been traveling?
A month now?
So this is this is a long trip.
So, how did this kind of secondand third part of the trip?
How was it different?
How did it feel different fromtraveling earlier when you had
all the kids with you?
I guess a bit more relaxed.
SPEAKER_01 (32:11):
Yeah, I mean, obviously the dynamics and the
pace were completely different.
Um, yeah, it really was likehaving three trips in one, you
know, the trip with the kids,exploring authors and and books.
There was time with our parentson pilgrimage with a lot of time
of deep reflection andself-discovery and just being in
(32:32):
touch with our spirit.
And then there was our belatedhoneymoon and the Brecken
Beacons and the Cotswolds.
And each of them were justreally distinct, and each was
really special.
SPEAKER_02 (32:44):
Uh it sounds like honestly, you just had the best
sabbatical.
When is the next one that youcan do?
Do you have to wait a few yearsor can you do it next year?
SPEAKER_01 (32:51):
Yeah, it's like at least seven years before I can
do another one.
So yeah.
But that doesn't mean, I mean, Idefinitely have some some you
know, frequent flyer points, youknow, airline points and credit
card points and stuff.
So I am really hoping to do ashorter trip uh sooner than
(33:12):
seven years.
SPEAKER_02 (33:13):
Uh I well, I'm sure you will, and it I'm sure it'll
be it'll be great fun, uh,whatever you do.
And we've we've already had alittle bit of chat about Beatrix
Potter, so you never know thatuh you might have a bit of a
Beatrix Potter theme going on.
Now, if you know how I end thepodcast, I always ask the same
question at the end of everyepisode.
So if someone was wanting toinclude a pilgrimage or a
(33:35):
countryside walk into their UKtrip, what would be your one tip
for them?
SPEAKER_01 (33:39):
Oh, I think it would just be like just do it.
You you will not regret it.
You know, walking forces you toslow down.
Um, it just makes you so muchmore aware of where you are and
where you're going and who andwhat is around you.
And just getting away fromcrowded cities and being
(34:03):
connected with the earth.
I mean, it was just solife-giving and restorative.
And it it gave me time and spaceto just reflect on lots of
different things, to not have torush onto the next thing on the
to-do list, but just to walk andand breathe and listen.
(34:24):
It all just really, really fedmy soul.
Um, and the UK countryside is sobeautiful.
The extensive network of publicfootpaths is such an incredible
gift.
Like the US has nothing like it.
It's it's amazing.
And so having the freedom tojust step out into an unfamiliar
place and discover what you findalong the way was such a gift.
(34:49):
So yeah, I guess other than justdo it, my advice would be, you
know, just pack light, bothliterally and figuratively.
Um, embrace the unexpected,notice the little things, and
stay open to whatever thejourney may bring.
SPEAKER_02 (35:08):
Wow, that sounds fantastic.
That's wonderful advice.
Wonderful advice for life,actually, Lauren.
unknown (35:13):
Yeah.
SPEAKER_02 (35:14):
Um, thank you so much for joining me again this
week to talk us through yourtrip report.
Um, you had a fantastic time.
I I can hear that.
I know when I spoke to you lastweek as well, and this week you
can really I can feel, I mean, Iknow you're thousands of
literally thousands ofkilometers away from me because
you're in the States and I'm inAustralia.
But I can honestly just lookingat your face, I can I can feel
(35:36):
the joy irradiating from you forthis trip.
So it's just been fabulous totalk to you.
And thank you so much forsharing it with our listeners as
well.
Just lovely.
Thank you so much.
SPEAKER_01 (35:46):
Yeah, thank you.
It has been super fun to reliveit with you.
So thanks for having me.
SPEAKER_02 (35:53):
Thanks again to Lauren for joining me to share
stages two and three of hersabbatical.
If you missed part one ofLauren's story, be sure to go
back and listen to last week'sepisode.
You'll find all the links andresources mentioned today in the
show notes atuktravelplanning.com forward
slash episode 177.
A huge thank you to this week'spodcast sponsors, Melissa,
(36:15):
Vanetta, and Shannon, forsupporting the show, amongst
others.
If you'd like to sponsor thepodcast and receive your own
shout out, you'll find the linkin the show notes.
And don't forget, if you'd liketo share your own UK travel
story or ask a question, you canleave me a voice message via
Speakpipe.
The link is also in the shownotes.
But that's it for this week, anduntil next week from me, happy
(36:37):
UK Travel Planning.
Thank you for tuning in to thisweek's episode of the UK Travel
Planning Podcast.
As always, show notes can befound at uktravelplanning.com.
If you've enjoyed the show, whynot leave us feedback via text
or a review on your favouritepodcast app?
We love to hear from you, andyou never know, you may receive
(36:58):
a shout out in a future episode.
But as always, that just leavesme to say until next week, happy
UK travel planning!
In last week's episode, guest Lauren Eanes
shared the first part of her UKsabbatical, a literally focused
itinerary around southernEngland with her husband and
four kids.
But that was only the beginning.
In this episode, find out whathappened when the kids flew home
and Lauren embarked on stagestwo and three of her journey,
including a pilgrimage along thePembrokeshire coast and a
postponed honeymoon escape tothe Cotsworld.
SPEAKER_00 (00:24):
Welcome to the UK Travel Planning Podcast.
Your host is the founder of theUK travel planning website,
Tracy Collins.
Each week, Tracy sharesdestination guides, travel tips
and itinerary ideas, as well asinterviews with a variety of
guests who share their knowledgeand experience of UK travel to
help you plan your perfect UKvacation.
Join us as we explore the UKfrom cosmopolitan cities to
(00:46):
quaint villages, from historiccastles to beautiful islands,
from the picturesque countrysideto seaside towns.
SPEAKER_02 (00:58):
Hi and welcome to this week's episode of the UK
Travel Panel Podcast.
Now, last week, in episode 176,you heard from listener Lauren
Eanes about the first stage ofher sabbatical, a literary
themed adventure throughsouthern England with her
husband and four children.
Now, in this episode, we'regoing to pick up the story as
Lauren's sabbatical takes a verydifferent turn.
(01:21):
So after waving the kids off atHeathrow, she and her husband
embarked on the next chapters oftheir journey.
Hi, Lauren.
It's fantastic to have you onthe podcast again this week,
because you were on last week.
Tell us all about your fantastictrip with the children.
With your kids, not children, Ishouldn't call them children,
they're teenagers, they weren'tlike that, I know.
(01:42):
And you saw a teenager clear onepoint and they were like, excuse
me, children, with yourteenagers last week, all about
uh your uh literary tour of ofEngland, which was amazing, and
your trip over to Paris.
But after that, the kids wenthome and you continued your trip
around England and actually wentto Wales as well.
(02:02):
So, would you like to give us abrief introduction again for
anybody who hasn't listened?
But I know after thatintroduction they'll be going to
be rewinding to listen to lastweek's for sure.
But if anybody didn't listen,would you like to just give us a
quick introduction aboutyourself again, please?
SPEAKER_01 (02:17):
Yeah, so my name is Lauren Eanes and I live in
Harrisonburg, Virginia.
I am a Lutheran pastor who wason sabbatical this past summer,
and my family and I used thattime to travel to the UK.
SPEAKER_02 (02:31):
Yeah, they you did, and you had a fantastic time uh
with the kids doing all the uhliterary stuff, which was
amazing.
Right.
So now pick us up from when thethe kids went home.
SPEAKER_01 (02:43):
Yeah, so um yeah, the the short answer of what
happened next is we we took atrain to Wales.
Uh we waited until we knew theirplane had taken off.
Uh and and for those who areworried about our kids, my aunt
was on the plane with them.
Um I think they were like prettyseasoned travelers at that
(03:04):
point.
They could have handled it justfine on their own.
Uh but yeah, it was kind ofstrange leaving them at the
airport.
Uh, and it was a big shift to gofrom traveling with four
teenagers and corrallingeveryone and managing the
schedule and the travel andeverything to a much slower form
(03:25):
of travel, doing a lot ofwalking uh with just adults.
SPEAKER_02 (03:29):
Okay, so yeah, so the focus of your sabbatical
changed.
So uh I know you did now apilgrimage walk at this point,
and this is why you went intoWales.
So, would you want to talk to usabout why you did that walk and
how you did you decide on thelocation of that pilgrimage?
SPEAKER_01 (03:46):
Yeah, so um let me just say a little bit about what
a pilgrimage is, in case peopleare like, what is she even
talking about?
So a really short definition isjust a walk with purpose.
You know, it's a journey that'susually on foot along a path,
often to a sacred place.
(04:06):
And it's just an opportunity toget out of your ordinary daily
life and walk with intention.
And I really wanted to do that,um, to just um be open to new
discoveries and insight andtransformation that walking
through the countryside canbring.
(04:27):
Um I'd had some friends who'ddone the Camino in Spain, uh the
Camino de Santiago, and reallygotten a lot out of that.
And um, and I knew that therewere a lot of old medieval
pilgrimage walks in the UK.
And so I thought while we werethere, I wanted to take
advantage of that.
Uh so I went on the uh BritishPilgrimage Trust website, uh,
(04:52):
which is just, I think it'sBritishpilgrimage.org.
And I highly recommend anyonewho wants to do a pilgrimage in
Britain to start there.
It's a really good website,wealth of information with a ton
of different routes.
And you can search by like thelength of the walk you want to
do, or the part of the country,or the type of pilgrimage that
you want to do, which was kindof overwhelming because there's
(05:14):
a lot of different options.
So it was hard to decide.
Like I just knew I wanted to doa pilgrimage, but from there I
wasn't sure.
And I was actually, I was in thelibrary one day flipping through
a book that had just thesegorgeous photos of different
places in the UK.
And I saw a picture of thePembrokeshire coast, and I was
(05:34):
just captivated.
I was like, where is this?
I need to go there.
And I looked at the map and Iwas like, oh, this is at like
the tippy little corner of farcoast of Wales.
It's nowhere where we wereplanning to be traveling.
So I thought, oh well, you know,I'll put that on the list for a
future trip.
But then I was a few days later,I was back on the pilgrimage,
British Pilgrimage Trust pageand looking for walks that were
(05:58):
like five to seven days long.
And the way of Saint Davidpopped up.
And so I'm reading about it, andthe description says that part
of the path followed thePembrokeshire Coast Path.
And I was like, oh my gosh,that's that beautiful place from
that book.
I knew nothing about Saint Davidat that point, had never heard
(06:20):
of him before.
It turns out he's the patronsaint of Wales, so he's kind of
important, but I didn't knowanything.
Um, but I started reading abouthis story and reading about the
root itself, and it just grabbedme.
I thought, this is what we needto do.
Completely different.
I had never been to Wales.
(06:42):
And then I uh discovered thatthe feast day for Saint David,
the day that that he celebratedin the church, is March 1st.
And that is my father-in-law'sbirthday.
So I thought, all right, well,that's a fun coincidence.
Like I think this is it.
This is what we're gonna do.
SPEAKER_02 (06:59):
Oh, that's fantastic.
And of course, you and yourhusband were joined by both of
your parents, both sets ofparents for a week.
So, how did that come about andwhat was it like to travel with
them?
SPEAKER_01 (07:09):
Yeah.
So as a pastor, my job takes meaway from my family a lot.
And so I knew I wanted mysabbatical time to involve and
include as much family aspossible.
So, you know, we did the coupleweeks with the kids, and then I
invited my husband's parents andmy dad to join us on this part
(07:33):
of the adventure.
I just thought it would be ameaningful thing for us to do
together, uh, which it very muchwas.
Um, and we traveled really welltogether and we bonded a lot,
and it it just really brought usall a lot closer together.
SPEAKER_02 (07:48):
Oh, I can imagine.
I can imagine that was a reallyspecial thing to do as well, and
fantastic memories as well, thatyou're gonna look back on about
you know, doing that walktogether.
So tell us about walking the St.
David's Way along that coast.
What were the highlights ormemorable moments?
SPEAKER_01 (08:06):
How much time do you have?
I could we could do like afive-hour long podcast and then
I'd still be talking about it.
So I'll try to, I'll try to umkeep keep it uh timely here.
But so the complete route wasfrom we started like near
Fishguard um and and walked tothe city of St.
(08:29):
David's.
And so it was about 30 miles ofwalking that we did over four
days.
Um, we the route began at uh St.
Gwendol's Church, which wasfounded in the sixth century.
And right by the church is um aholy well that that predates
(08:50):
Christianity.
It was a well that that peoplewere going to.
It had purported healing powersfor you know millennia, which is
incredible.
And it's it's a well thatancient pilgrims from the eighth
century following the same pathuh would have stopped at to wash
(09:12):
their feet and take a breakalong the way.
Uh so it just being in a placewith such deep history and
incredible continuity andconnection with the past was so
powerful.
And just feeling that connectionwith people who have been
walking the same path forhundreds of years, like seeing
(09:35):
the Celtic cross carved into astone from the eighth century
that has been a marker and awaypost on this pilgrimage path
for centuries.
I mean, it's still there.
It is so profound to feel thatconnection.
Um yeah, it it that part of itwas just incredible.
(09:57):
And then there's just like thenatural beauty of the place,
these dramatic cliffs and thecraggy hills and the sandy
beaches and the little coves androck pools and the beautiful
little harbors.
I I felt like I had to stop likeevery 50 feet and take a photo
because the view had changedagain and was just so beautiful
(10:20):
again.
So that was just incredible.
We were really lucky withweather, too.
Um, we really didn't have anyrain at all.
There were a couple of times ofincredibly light drizzle, but
very few.
So beautiful days.
We saw wildlife, we saw a youngkestrel in his nest, we saw a
(10:44):
seal pup that had just beenborn.
Um, we were there in late July,so it was like really, really
early for seal pupping season,which is more like September
typically, but but we did seesome, and that was just magical.
Um, we learned about a lot ofthe endangered species,
especially the birds.
We saw a lot of chuff, um, whichwas heartening because that's a
(11:08):
species that's been struggling,and so just that connection to
the earth and nature waswonderful.
Um, and we also just had a lotof fun.
We stopped at the melantriguentwool mill and we watched them
weave.
And of course, then we purchasedsome souvenirs, which it's not
(11:32):
cheap, but it was uh that wasreally cool.
Um, we went to the blue lagoonand my crazy husband actually
jumped off the ledge, you know,about 25 feet up in the air into
that cold, cold, cold water,which was a highlight for him.
It was a highlight for us too.
We were standing there on theshore cheering him on.
(11:52):
And nobody was tempted to joinhim.
No, I was I was a little bittempted, but not a lot.
I I was happy to take the video.
It was it was all right.
Uh so and then, you know, theplace that we ended up was the
city of St.
David's, um, which is thesmallest city in the UK.
(12:13):
Uh, and only really called acity because it has a cathedral.
But it's just the a delightfullittle town.
And the cathedral ismagnificent, you know, again, a
place of just deep, deep historyand gorgeous art and
architecture, and a realpalpable sense of of
spirituality.
(12:34):
So yeah, everything about it wasjust magical.
SPEAKER_02 (12:37):
Uh, it does sound amazing.
I have to say, I I was in uh onthe island of Iona a few years
ago, and uh and just seeing thethe crosses there and that that
then that sort of walk aroundthe island, that that was also
it's amazing.
You kind of cannot I mean I grewup in the UK, so I have that
kind of sense of you know havingthose thousands and thousands of
years of history, but evenstill, it still is kind of like
(12:59):
pretty awe-inspiring when youwhen you see something like
that.
Um now I know at the end you youstayed in St.
Non's retreat and at St.
Davis, is that right?
So, how was that?
SPEAKER_01 (13:09):
Yeah.
Well, so there are differentways to do a pilgrimage, right?
And so one is that you know, youtake everything you need for the
week and you put it in your packand you walk seven or eight
miles each day, and then youstop to sleep in a campground or
a guest house or something, andthen you get up the next day and
you keep going.
And we did it a littledifferently in that we had a
(13:30):
home base that we returned toevery night.
Um, so we would, you know, doour walk and then we'd go back
to the retreat center, and thenthe next day we'd go back to
where we left off the daybefore.
So we stayed at St.
Nan's retreat center.
It's a really special place.
It's right on the coast, and soyou just have these amazing
(13:52):
views, and you just you walkinto the guest house, and it's
you just feel warmth andhospitality and peace.
And it's right on the thePembrokeshire Coast path and
part of the pilgrimage route.
So St.
Non was the mother of SaintDavid, and on the grounds of the
(14:14):
retreat center are the ruins ofSaint Non's chapel, which they
can't date with any certainty,but it's definitely one of the
oldest buildings associated withChristianity in Wales.
And it has this large stone witha Celtic cross engraved in it
that they've dated to like the7th or 8th century.
And adjacent to that is anotherholy well, which again would
(14:36):
have been one of the main stopsof medieval pilgrims who would
do this pilgrimage.
So, again, it's just a placethick with history and and
meaning.
So it's cool to just be there.
Um, and it was just a greatplace to stay too.
The hosts are a delightfulmarried couple, and they fed us
delicious food for breakfast anddinner, and they gave us a
(14:56):
packed lunch before we left eachday.
And the beds were comfortableand the showers were hot, and I
can't recommend it highlyenough.
So, yeah, originally I had notwanted to do it the way we did.
Like I wanted to just like walkand stop and then get up and
keep going.
But in the end, I was reallyglad that we had a home base to
(15:18):
return to each night and kind ofreflect on the day and be fed
meals.
And and then, you know, so onlyhave to carry day packs and not
have to carry like all thethings was really nice.
And there are things, you know,when you're doing a pilgrimage,
you can also have it set up thatlike your bag is transported to
your next stop.
Um, but that all seemed toocomplicated.
(15:41):
So this actually worked outreally, really well.
SPEAKER_02 (15:43):
I I like the sound of that.
I'm not I'm not a massive fan ofkind of walking anywhere, but if
I was gonna do it, I like theway that you've done it.
I'm kind of well known for that.
But now, after this, where didyou go?
I think you went to you went tosomewhere for a couple of days.
SPEAKER_01 (15:56):
Yeah, so we went to Caldi Islands, which you
mentioned Iona.
Caldy is another one of the UK'sholy islands, like Iona and
Bardsey, um, and Holy Island,um, Lindisfarne.
So Caldy is is is a specialplace.
It's we so when we were donewith our pilgrimage, we went
(16:19):
from St.
David's to Tenby.
And Caldy Island's about a mileoff the coast of Tenby.
And so it's actually really easyto do a day trip to Caldi.
A lot of people who are onholiday in Tenby will just go
over for a few hours and enjoy.
Um, but you can also stay there,which is what we did, uh, again,
at a retreat center called St.
(16:39):
Philomena's, which again justhad you know private, simple but
very comfortable rooms anddelicious meals were included.
Um, and there are some wonderfulwalking trails on the island.
And so we continued to do a lotof walking there.
Um, and there's also, again,just some rich history.
(17:02):
A Celtic monastery was foundedon the island in the 6th
century, which again, like likeyou said, like you're from the
UK, so you're kind of used tohaving old things around you.
Being from the US, like this isreally old.
And so it's just pretty powerfulto see that and experience that.
Um, one of the things they havein the old priory, it's called
(17:25):
the Caldi Stone.
And it's this big stone they'vedated to the sixth century that
has inscriptions in both Latinand in Ogum, which is like an
ancient script that originatedin Ireland.
So it's just fascinating.
Um, and Caldi also has woodlandsto walk through.
They have red squirrels on theisland, which is fun.
(17:46):
There's a beautiful, yeah,there's a beautiful sandy beach.
Um so it's just a place apart torelax and and have rest and and
peace.
Oh, and the monks have achocolate factory.
This is there's a uh a um uhsisterian monastery now on the
(18:08):
island, and the way that theyhelp to fund their ministry is
through making chocolate and thedark chocolate in particular,
phenomenal.
So if you go to Caldi, if you donothing else, get some
chocolate.
SPEAKER_02 (18:23):
Sounds good.
So now did your parents go withyou as well to the island?
They did.
So how how was that after thewalk-in to have those few days
of kind of I guess chilling outand relaxing?
SPEAKER_01 (18:33):
Yeah, it was just it was wonderful.
You know, life, everyday life isso busy.
And to be able to just step awayfrom the busyness and just be
and just be together, you know.
I mean, that's something thatI'll really treasure forever.
SPEAKER_02 (18:53):
Absolutely.
So now after that, your parentsdid they go back to the states
or did they continue a bit oftravel around the UK?
SPEAKER_01 (19:00):
Yeah, they went back to the states.
They had done some travelingbefore they met up with us uh in
various places in the UK.
And so they at that point theirjourney was done.
SPEAKER_02 (19:12):
Now, I know you continued on, and um, I was so
pleased to find out that youstopped on at Hey on Y, which is
you had to, with your love ofliterary love, you had to have
stopped there.
So, how did you find Hey?
Did you enjoy it?
SPEAKER_01 (19:26):
Yeah, so so this sort of began the the third part
of our adventure, um, which wasa bit of a belated honeymoon.
Uh, my husband and I got marriedin 2019, and we had planned on
doing a honeymoon to theCotswolds in 2020.
And we all know what happenedthen.
So we thought, okay, well, weneed to do our honeymoon.
(19:49):
So that's that's what we didafter we left Tenbu, we we
rented a car and we drovethrough the Brecon Beacons, and
I was very determined to get toHeionwai before we went over to
the Cotswolds.
And um, I mean, it was greatjust getting there, driving,
observing the landscape and andhow it changed from the coast
(20:10):
was really cool.
And yeah, Heianwai did notdisappoint.
It we only had a few hoursthere, unfortunately, um, which
is nowhere near enough time toexplore all the bookstores, but
we we did our best to getthrough as many as we could.
Um, and we did our best to notbuy too many books because we
knew we had to transport themhome.
(20:31):
Um, but yeah, we we got an earlyedition Jennings book, and I got
a copy of um E.
H.
Shepherd's Drawn from Memory,which is sort of about his
growing up in London.
Um, we got an like an old butbut really good condition
Dickens.
Um, so yeah, it it the books wegot connected to the travels
(20:54):
that we had done a few weeksearlier, and um, and I got a few
books on Celtic spiritualitybecause I wanted to continue to
explore that after having livedit for a week.
So yeah.
Love Hay on Why, would love togo back, would love to go for
the festival that they do eachyear.
Ugh, that would be amazing.
SPEAKER_02 (21:13):
It it really is full of bookshops.
You kind of say that to people,but then you actually go and
it's oh, there's just so manyamazing bookshops in Hay.
So if you if you like books,that's the place to go.
But uh you also did a bit of,was it did you do a little bit
of hiking before you went to Hayon Why?
I'm guessing you did.
So um what yeah.
Was that a bit different, Iguess, from doing the coastal
hike?
SPEAKER_01 (21:33):
Yeah.
So we um we hiked in the BreckenBeacons.
We we went to Taliban on Usk,which part of why we went there
is that it's said that that areainspired Tolkien.
The Black Mountains reallyinspired him for his writing in
Lord of the Rings.
Um so that was fun to do thathike.
(21:55):
We did a circular trail thattook us along the canal there,
and then up a hill and over aridge.
So we got beautiful views of theUsk Valley and the Black
Mountains, and then we went backdown to the valley and the
Taliban Reservoir, which wasbeautiful.
So there's just a variety ofscenery all along the way, and
(22:17):
that was that was great.
It was like five or six miles.
It wasn't a super long hike, butit gave us a good taste of a lot
of different things.
SPEAKER_02 (22:24):
Wow, that's great.
So you I I love the fact you'veyou've got such a lot of variety
in your trip, you really have.
Um, and so now you head to thecotswold.
So let's let's have a chat abouthow that went.
So I think you headed to wereyou staying in Chip and Camden?
SPEAKER_01 (22:39):
Yeah, so that was our home base, and that was a
great base for exploring theCotswolds.
It's big enough that it's gotlike great pubs and great shops,
but it wasn't too overrun withtourists while we were there.
It was just a great littlemarket town with a lot of
character and a great place touse as our home base.
SPEAKER_02 (23:00):
Uh no, I agree.
I like I I do also like uhChipmunk Camden.
Unfortunately, some of the umCotswold's uh towns and villages
are becoming a bit of a victimof their own success, so they're
getting extremely busy.
But I think Chipmont Camden wasa was a a good a good choice.
And obviously it's the start orthe end, whichever we're looking
at, I think it's probably thestart of the Cotswold Way.
So yeah, did you do a bit ofwalking on the Cotswold Way as
(23:22):
well?
SPEAKER_01 (23:23):
We we did a bit, we did a lot, actually, in one day.
We we walked about 12 miles.
Oh wow, which was kind of kindof crazy.
That was our longest uh walkingday, but but and by that point,
right, it had been a month.
And when we were traveling withthe kids, I mean we were doing,
you know, 15,000, 20,000 steps aday in cities and things, and
(23:43):
then we, you know, we're doingseven or nine miles of hiking.
So by this point, we built upsome some good muscles in our
legs, and we uh we ended up, wetook the bus down to Stanton and
then walked the Cotswold wayback up to Chipping Camden.
And so yeah, it was it was itwas long, but every step was
(24:07):
worth it.
It was really great.
I loved that day.
Um, Stanton has the most, I meanit's just a little teeny
village, but it has the mostincredible little church that is
definitely worth stopping in if,like me, you're into old
churches.
Um, I think by that point myhusband was a little tired of
old churches, but I was like,we're stopping at the church.
Um so that was great.
(24:28):
And then, you know, the CostwoldWade, like the path is really
clearly marked, and the sceneryis varied and interesting.
Um, and you get to Broadwayabout halfway through the walk,
and that was an excellent timeto stop at a tea shop and have a
cream tea.
We were ready for that.
Yeah.
Um, and we walked up to theBroadway Tower with the
(24:50):
beautiful views from there.
And so, yeah, then when wearrived back in Shipping Camden,
they have the marker that says,like, yeah, this is the terminus
of the Cotswold Way, either thebeginning or the end, depending
on which direction you're doingit.
Um, so even though we'd onlywalked like a little more than a
tenth of the Cotswold Way, westill took our picture.
Like, here we are at the end,because it had been a long walk.
(25:12):
We felt good about that.
SPEAKER_02 (25:15):
I'll tell you a little secret here, Lauren.
I've walked about five meters ofit and I've still got a picture
of myself at the end of that.
SPEAKER_01 (25:22):
I think that counts.
I think that counts.
You were on the Cotswold Way.
SPEAKER_02 (25:27):
Exactly, exactly.
So so now you you went to visitlots of the other.
So you you've mentionedBroadway, it's great.
You went to Broadway, you wentto Broadway Tower, you went to
Stanton, you've stayed in in uhChip and Camden.
So what other towns and villagesdid you go and visit?
Because there's some wonderfulmarket towns as well, like uh
Morton and Stowe.
And oh, so tell me where youwent, what did you love?
SPEAKER_01 (25:49):
Yeah, so we we did spend one day just driving
around and and checking outlittle little towns like that.
And we did, we went to Burton onthe Water and Stowe in the World
and Morton and Marsh.
Um, I'm sad to say I didn't lovethese three towns only because
they were so crowded.
And I really I can't complain.
(26:10):
Like we were two of the touristsmaking it crowded, right?
Um, but but yeah, like you said,they're kind of a victim of
their own success.
And and my guess is that othertimes of the year the towns
would be more enjoyable and moremanageable.
And and we knew going in earlyAugust, it was gonna be busy.
But I was surprised by just howbusy it was.
(26:31):
I I really was.
Um, and that that really diddamper the experience.
Um so yeah, I think like myadvice for people would be don't
go in August.
But but if like us, that's theonly time you have.
Um, we really did.
I I really liked Stow in theWald.
(26:51):
It didn't make me feel quite asclaustrophobic and surrounded by
people.
And we did enjoy the some of theshops there.
And and Burton on the Water, wejust kind of on a whim decided
to go into the motoring museum.
Oh, it's so good.
Oh my gosh, it's so good.
Neither of us are really big,like car people, but we loved
(27:12):
that museum.
It is just a feast for the eyes.
There are interesting cars,there's so much interesting
memorabilia.
It was great.
That was definitely a highlight.
And it wasn't very crowded atall.
So even though you stepped outof the museum and you're there
are mobs of people, thereweren't a lot of people in the
museum.
It was fantastic.
SPEAKER_02 (27:31):
Oh, I'm so glad you mentioned that because I also
Doug and I love the MotionMuseum in in Bournemouth of the
Water.
Now, Borton again has become abit of a victim of its own
success in that it it it doesn'tmatter, to be honest, it doesn't
seem to matter whatever time ofyear.
And I've stayed there in Januaryas well, which I think really
low season.
Still quite busy.
Um, obviously, in the summer itgets like the last time I stayed
(27:52):
there, I think was June.
And of course, that everybody'sgot their feet in the river and
having a little paddle, and um,yeah, and a lot of students also
seem to kind of descend on onbought on the water.
So it yeah, that is becomingreally busy.
The last few times I've actuallystayed in just outside Burford,
and I've also stayed in Stowe.
We really love Stowe becausethat that's just something I
(28:12):
love walking off at the church,and I don't know how many photos
I've had taken of that that thatchurch door.
Yeah, I don't know.
I must I must have about ahundred photos.
You've got to have a photo ofthe church door.
Um so but but it is becomingthat way.
And um did you go to Bibery andthe slaughters, or did you did
you manage to get to them?
SPEAKER_01 (28:30):
We didn't.
By that point, we we were justkind of burned out.
We we had planned to go to theslaughters, but there were just
so many cars on the road, and wewere like, we're it's it
probably was gonna there weregonna be more people there than
we wanted there to be.
And so we were like, we justneed to, we just need to go
back.
And that was our last day beforewe were flying out, and so we're
(28:53):
like, oh, we should probably goback and eat some food and pack
our bags and all that.
SPEAKER_02 (29:00):
No, actually, I I am actually gonna share a tip as
well that um if it because I'msure there's lots of people
listening kind of going, oh, Ireally want to do this, but it I
I don't fancy the A, the amountof crowds there are, but also
the parking situation, uh, whichis why we work with Go
Cotswolds.
Then are there a small group tothat do um company that do to uh
family run that do so you canbasically go out with them and
(29:21):
they do the parking, you don'thave to worry about the parking
and they tell you where you'regoing and you can go and see
some of the smaller faces.
So um because because you saidthe Cotswold is becoming a kind
of bit of a bottleneck with theamount of cars and stuff on the
road, and parking at places likeBiberry can be incredibly
difficult, um, which is why Ikind of say if you if you if you
want to go and see those placesand you don't want to be doing
(29:44):
the drive and doing that, thenthat that's a good option.
So that's worth considering nexttime, Lauren.
Yeah, no, it it definitely wouldbe.
For sure.
Um yeah, so I just want to putthat out there because I know I
don't want to put people offgoing to the the cottswells
because they are beautiful, um,but you do have to kind of Oh,
kind of sometimes fight thecrowds and trying to get parking
can be but can be a bit of aproblem.
(30:05):
But have you got any kind ofadvice apart from not going in
August?
Did you manage to get parkedokay?
And was that all that?
Yeah.
SPEAKER_01 (30:12):
We did.
Um I think probably um Burton onthe water was the most crowded
and hardest to find parking, butwe we did.
Um stow we parked at the um isit a Tesco?
They have a big Tesco, I think,that had that you're allowed to
(30:34):
park there and and walk intotown.
And that was super easy.
Yeah, Morton and Marsh, we hadtrouble finding parking.
Burton, they have a big parkinglot um that that we were able to
find a spot.
That was so parking wasn'tterrible.
There, there were places to parkand and walk into town.
Yeah, I mean, I think just aslong as you're mentally prepared
(30:56):
for the crowds, then you know,you can you can manage it.
There's definitely it'sdefinitely still worth going.
Um, well, we also went to theRoll Wright Stones.
Oh yeah, and that that wasinteresting, uh, and and not
super crowded.
You know, there are a coupleother people there, but um, but
(31:16):
not too many.
And so I think, you know, wewanted to like hit the towns
that that everyone talks about.
And I I think I wish we hadspent more time going a little
more off the beaten track, um,and and seeing some of the
places that aren't as popular,but equally beautiful and
fascinating.
SPEAKER_02 (31:37):
Absolutely.
And there's some there's somethere are there's just so much
to see in the Costwells, andit's a huge area, that's another
thing as well.
Like you were in the kind ofnorthern part, they it that they
just stretch all the way down toBath.
So you've got a massive area uhthat you can explore.
So just another reason to goback, Lauren.
Yes, absolutely.
Now, okay, so this is so you'veyou've this how long is this
(31:58):
you've been traveling?
A month now?
So this is this is a long trip.
So, how did this kind of secondand third part of the trip?
How was it different?
How did it feel different fromtraveling earlier when you had
all the kids with you?
I guess a bit more relaxed.
SPEAKER_01 (32:11):
Yeah, I mean, obviously the dynamics and the
pace were completely different.
Um, yeah, it really was likehaving three trips in one, you
know, the trip with the kids,exploring authors and and books.
There was time with our parentson pilgrimage with a lot of time
of deep reflection andself-discovery and just being in
(32:32):
touch with our spirit.
And then there was our belatedhoneymoon and the Brecken
Beacons and the Cotswolds.
And each of them were justreally distinct, and each was
really special.
SPEAKER_02 (32:44):
Uh it sounds like honestly, you just had the best
sabbatical.
When is the next one that youcan do?
Do you have to wait a few yearsor can you do it next year?
SPEAKER_01 (32:51):
Yeah, it's like at least seven years before I can
do another one.
So yeah.
But that doesn't mean, I mean, Idefinitely have some some you
know, frequent flyer points, youknow, airline points and credit
card points and stuff.
So I am really hoping to do ashorter trip uh sooner than
(33:12):
seven years.
SPEAKER_02 (33:13):
Uh I well, I'm sure you will, and it I'm sure it'll
be it'll be great fun, uh,whatever you do.
And we've we've already had alittle bit of chat about Beatrix
Potter, so you never know thatuh you might have a bit of a
Beatrix Potter theme going on.
Now, if you know how I end thepodcast, I always ask the same
question at the end of everyepisode.
So if someone was wanting toinclude a pilgrimage or a
(33:35):
countryside walk into their UKtrip, what would be your one tip
for them?
SPEAKER_01 (33:39):
Oh, I think it would just be like just do it.
You you will not regret it.
You know, walking forces you toslow down.
Um, it just makes you so muchmore aware of where you are and
where you're going and who andwhat is around you.
And just getting away fromcrowded cities and being
(34:03):
connected with the earth.
I mean, it was just solife-giving and restorative.
And it it gave me time and spaceto just reflect on lots of
different things, to not have torush onto the next thing on the
to-do list, but just to walk andand breathe and listen.
(34:24):
It all just really, really fedmy soul.
Um, and the UK countryside is sobeautiful.
The extensive network of publicfootpaths is such an incredible
gift.
Like the US has nothing like it.
It's it's amazing.
And so having the freedom tojust step out into an unfamiliar
place and discover what you findalong the way was such a gift.
(34:49):
So yeah, I guess other than justdo it, my advice would be, you
know, just pack light, bothliterally and figuratively.
Um, embrace the unexpected,notice the little things, and
stay open to whatever thejourney may bring.
SPEAKER_02 (35:08):
Wow, that sounds fantastic.
That's wonderful advice.
Wonderful advice for life,actually, Lauren.
unknown (35:13):
Yeah.
SPEAKER_02 (35:14):
Um, thank you so much for joining me again this
week to talk us through yourtrip report.
Um, you had a fantastic time.
I I can hear that.
I know when I spoke to you lastweek as well, and this week you
can really I can feel, I mean, Iknow you're thousands of
literally thousands ofkilometers away from me because
you're in the States and I'm inAustralia.
But I can honestly just lookingat your face, I can I can feel
(35:36):
the joy irradiating from you forthis trip.
So it's just been fabulous totalk to you.
And thank you so much forsharing it with our listeners as
well.
Just lovely.
Thank you so much.
SPEAKER_01 (35:46):
Yeah, thank you.
It has been super fun to reliveit with you.
So thanks for having me.
SPEAKER_02 (35:53):
Thanks again to Lauren for joining me to share
stages two and three of hersabbatical.
If you missed part one ofLauren's story, be sure to go
back and listen to last week'sepisode.
You'll find all the links andresources mentioned today in the
show notes atuktravelplanning.com forward
slash episode 177.
A huge thank you to this week'spodcast sponsors, Melissa,
(36:15):
Vanetta, and Shannon, forsupporting the show, amongst
others.
If you'd like to sponsor thepodcast and receive your own
shout out, you'll find the linkin the show notes.
And don't forget, if you'd liketo share your own UK travel
story or ask a question, you canleave me a voice message via
Speakpipe.
The link is also in the shownotes.
But that's it for this week, anduntil next week from me, happy
(36:37):
UK Travel Planning.
Thank you for tuning in to thisweek's episode of the UK Travel
Planning Podcast.
As always, show notes can befound at uktravelplanning.com.
If you've enjoyed the show, whynot leave us feedback via text
or a review on your favouritepodcast app?
We love to hear from you, andyou never know, you may receive
(36:58):
a shout out in a future episode.
But as always, that just leavesme to say until next week, happy
UK travel planning!
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