AO YUN - The Insider's Guide

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In fiction, Shangri-La was a mythical place of boundless human wisdom and agelessness. These days, after China re-named a city in north-west Yunnan Province, it's the backdrop of a potential game-changer for Chinese wine.

This particular backdrop is forbidding. Think: precipitous mountain gorges above the raging Mekong River at nearly 3,000 metres altitude. A patchwork of small-holding vineyards cling to the hillsides. Prunings are fed to yaks. Tea, tobacco and mushrooms are Yunnan's historic crops. No wonder the wine potential in the Meili Mountain region long remained hidden.

That is, until a particularly stubborn and resilient Australian winemaker, Tony Jordan, embarked on an arduous search on behalf of global luxury group LVMH to unearth a Chinese Grand Cru terroir. He found Shangri-La. But would his bet pay off?

In this episode we discover the intriguing story of Ao Yun - how (on earth) it came to be, just how challenging this operation is to run, and most importantly - what's the wine actually like? At nearly £300 a bottle, it has a lot to live up to. We talk to winemaker Maxence Dulou, Chinese wine expert Janet Wang and Berry Brothers & Rudd Asia buyer Tom Baxter. We also deliver our verdict on the wine whose name means, 'soaring above the clouds'.

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