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May 21, 2024 9 mins
¿Qué son los Sephora kids? ¿Cómo llegamos hasta el punto de que niñas de 9 años estén usando retinol por miedo a envejecer? Vení, adentrémonos en una de las grandes problemáticas del mundo del skincare.
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Episode Transcript

Available transcripts are automatically generated. Complete accuracy is not guaranteed.
(00:00):
Many times we label the beauty ofsomething frivolous. However, beauty plays a
very important role in our society,both socially and politically and economically. The
weight of beauty is such that itcan condition people' s lives, build
a multimillion dollar industry around them,symbolize a social or economic status, influence
a country' s political decisions.So, in this new season of chemical

(00:23):
beauty, I want to talk aboutbeauty from all these aspects, about building
it, disarming it, breaking it, analyzing chinga beauty and chemistry. And
this season begins with a very currenttheme. The cffora kits. In case
you didn' t know, thekids' hours are girls and preteens or
incipient teenagers who go to that well- known shop and are going viral on

(00:47):
social networks because they destroy their entirepassage. They spend ridiculous amounts of money
on skinker or makeup products, matrittanused and many more things from the point
of view of skin health, whichis incredibly the easiest to explain. This
is a mess. The skins ofgirls and preteens are not the same as

(01:08):
the skins of adults, as theyare skins that are not yet developed.
Therefore, they are more sensitive ifsome of their functions are not 100%
all those functions that have to dowith hormonal development, they are not developed
because they are actually girls or preteens. Therefore, skin care products that are
intended for adults and most of them. Yeah, most brands focus on adults.

(01:36):
They are not intended for children becausethey do not have the same requirements.
Much less if we talk about productsthat are looking for ephora kits within
stores, which are rather anti-age products or spoliating acids, things like
more intense. Kids need skinker.Yeah, like I always say to the

(01:56):
skin you want to take care ofyour skin. Skin is an organ and
it is important to have certain careto prevent diseases. Something according to those
ages would be, for example,a gentle cleansing with a sinded soap that
has no perfumes, has no essences, has nothing strong, has no dyes,
does not alter the pH of theskin, does not alter its barrier
as much as possible for dry skin. Because in general, children have dry

(02:17):
skin and then a sunscreen that allowsthem to protect themselves from UV and BB
rays with a high protective factor thatis suitable for their skin. There are
pediatric sunscreens in general are minerals.If you don' t get a pediatric,
it may be a mineral to keepin mind. There are pediatric lines
and even baby- specific products thatalso have skins with other characteristics than childhood.

(02:42):
That is why it is very importantto always consult a professional in a
pediatrician or a darmatologist who will guideus how we can care for and protect
our children' s skin from thesun. Nothing but drag Lphant, no
retinoids, no expensive creams, noglycic acid and no daily makeup. Yes,
you can use makeup as a gameat a certain time, some day

(03:07):
of the week and well then,if it is properly removed, if it
is made up well, there isno problem using products of this style at
such a young age. They cancause skin reactions, adverse reactions, allergies,
burns, and future skin problems.In these future problems we cannot elucidate
them well, because in truth itis only these generations that are using holiness

(03:29):
products at the age of ten eleventwelve years. But how do we get
to the point that a 12-year- old girl is thinking she needs
to wear retinal. I will notdeny that they give me a little tenderness
to people who think this is anew phenomenon, when in truth women do
a lot of that we are encouragedto fulfill aesthetic cannoles since we are very

(03:49):
small. The difference now is thatthis ceased to be the norm and became
a problem, because it basically annoysadults and generates the much feared losses of
UAs from one of the most importantindustries in the world. Ask any woman
in every environment when aesthetic pressures beganin her life and surely mention the age

(04:10):
of these sefforagits nine, ten,eleven years or so. Some will be
because of their weight, others becauseof the beautiful body, others because of
their developing body, which could bevery provocative. This age, so of
late childhood pre- adolescence is alwaysvery conflictive for women. It always was
with regard to personal image, becausepatriarchy has a very well- kept system

(04:33):
that makes us feel lacking for notreaching that aesthetic channel. She' s
barely seeing, that we' regetting to the age of becoming little women,
as canons, pressures and so onbegin. Even in some cases it
goes from more girls. In otherwords, there are cases of, for
example, girls with eating disorders offive or six years old, because there

(04:55):
is already an aesthetic pressure and thatis not something that emerged now with the
eforagits. There' s a lotof you. Aesthetic pressures are not new.
The way they express themselves maybe ifyou used to have your mom or
your grandmother reminding you of how fatyou were. Today you have thousands of
people at your fingertips on a cellphone telling you how to make yourself more

(05:17):
beautiful than they tell you about theglob app of things you have to do
to be really beautiful, that showyou hundreds of new products that come out
on the market and that could solveyour life by giving you what they taught
you the most to long for beingbeautiful. Perhaps today the issue of weight
is not as hot as it was, for example, in my teenage years

(05:39):
in the two thousand, but weare seeing an obsession with not aging.
We never have a huge obsession,so huge that it takes a ten-
year- old girl to consider usingtinoids. The focus is on different things
over generations. They' re changingthose spotlights, but it always ends up
being the same. If you're close to becoming a woman, you
have to start having women' sissues. And women' s problems are

(06:00):
basically how to be as cute aspossible, how to devote your time,
your energy and your money to beingas close as possible to that aesthetic canon
of your generation. So we can' t suddenly be surprised that there are
girls afraid of getting old. Andall generations of women had our own traumas
at the age when we have toact like women. For me, what

(06:23):
is happening now is something that wehave known for a long time that was
coming, which is that the networksamplify the discourses, so not only are
the girls more exposed to receiving allthis bombing of information about the need to
be beautiful, but we are alsomore bombarded by what is happening to this
generation. I used to be moreof a hideout, I didn' t

(06:45):
go screaming on social media that Ihad to shave my moustache. But now
the girls are seeing it. Thesegirls are recorded in sefora, their attitudes
are recorded, they are published innetworks, they are massified. If one
of them used to cry with shamein the bathroom because they just told her
that if she was still this chubby, no one would like her. Now
the girls take in more the retinalof drank Elephant encephora and there is always

(07:06):
someone who is with the cell phonewilling to film and publish it. I
think the most important thing is toput ourselves in the place of a preteen
for just five minutes, with allthat involves that stage of life, body
development, the mental and social developmentof people, how difficult it is.
We were all preteens and imagine howour sow of ten or eleven years or

(07:30):
so would have been. But now, in two thousand twenty- four,
I think this is a good wayto understand cephorakits. They have hundreds of
contents all day talking about skin care, beauty, balloon ap how to make
your best version. They have amultimillion- dollar industry that saw the filon
and is increasingly targeting younger consumers withvery eye- catching patajing, with targets

(07:51):
tailored to phobia. That aging thatis being generated in Tiktok have the patriarchy
that seems to have forgotten the feminismof the third wave and fiercely attacks again
from the screen of the cell phoneto those who are younger and more defenseless
to those discourses, all in themiddle of a sea of hormones and parents

(08:11):
who are also very consumed by capitalism, who have little time to dedicate to
their children, who have extensive Titanicworking days. I don' t know
we can' t ask you ina digital age to be aware of everything
that happens on your children' sscreens. Twenty- four seven. Yes,
obviously, it remains a problem howto manage the world of networks and
access to information that children and adolescentshave, that especially digital natives are having

(08:35):
a lot of problems about this,but it is a program that not only
parents are guilty of, as manypeople quietly dedicated themselves to saying, but
all as a society. The childrensee what we teach them, suck that
and behave like we told them todo. If we can' t protect
our childhoods from ourselves, how canwe blame them? If you like the

(09:07):
Skinker world. This is the fifthseason of this podcast, so you can
go listen to previous seasons. Thereis a lot of information, about everything
you can imagine, from beauty historyto ingredients of everything a little bit.
This was an original production of uicaust
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