Today, we’re heading to the land of glaciers in southeast Alaska, Glacier Bay National Park! In this episode we discuss some of the fascinating features of the park, some plants and animals, learn about the history of the park, leave you with an activity from the junior ranger program, explore the geology and discuss how glaciers are formed, and talk about how we visited the park.
Junior Rangers are explorers, learning all about the park’s ecosystems, plants and animals, and how to protect nature. The Junior Ranger program is not just for kids; it's for the young, and the young at heart!
A Special Thanks to Glacier Bay National Park!
Source: https://www.nps.gov/glba/index.htm
Anadromous Fish of Glacier Bay: https://www.nps.gov/glba/learn/nature/anadromous-fish.htm
Trail Trivia Sound Effect by Justin & Robin
Music from #Uppbeat (free for Creators!): https://uppbeat.io/t/sky-toes/honey-its-sunny
License code: UOAQJNFO3IIPFJJG
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Transcript
Episode Transcript
Available transcripts are automatically generated. Complete accuracy is not guaranteed.
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Welcome to NPJR, where we explore the great outdoors one
National Park at a time. I'm Justin.
And I'm Robin, we encourage you to pause the podcast at any time
and discuss some of our talking points or try answering our
trail trivias. Today.
We're heading to a land of glaciers and rugged wilderness
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tucked away in the southeast coast of Alaska Glacier Bay
National Park. Located along the rugged SE
coast of Alaska, Glacier Bay National Park and Preserve
encompasses A stunning 3.3 million acres of fjords,
temperate rainforest, towering mountains, dynamic tidewater
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glaciers, and 1200 miles of coastline.
It is a place where geology is alive, where ancient ice has
sculpted the land, and where indigenous cultures and diverse
ecosystems thrive. Glacier Bay National Park is the
7th largest National Park in theUS.
In 2024, Glacier Bay welcomed over 736,000 visitors, setting a
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record for annual attendance. We are so fortunate to have been
part of this record setting attendance.
Since Glacier Bay became a National Park unit, over
15,000,000 people have visited. The story of Glacier Bay begins
over 200 million years ago when tectonic forces collided oceanic
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plates with the North American plate, forming the mountains of
Southeast Alaska. Over successive ice ages,
glaciers carved deep fjords and valleys into the land.
A fjord is a long, narrow, deep inlet of the sea between high
cliffs. During the Little Ice Age.
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The year is 1550 to 1850 approximately.
Glacier Bay was filled with a massive tidewater glacier.
When the English naturalist and explorer Captain George
Vancouver sailed by in 1794, theglacier extended into Icy
Strait. The glacier began to retreat
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rapidly. By the time the naturalist John
Muir visited in 1879, the glacier had receded 48 miles up
the Bay. This unprecedented retreat
became one of the most studied examples of glacial recession
and geological change in the world.
The continuing movement of ice, sediment and water makes Glacier
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Bay a living laboratory for geologists and climate
scientists. Inspired by John Muir's writings
and advocacy, Glacier Bay, it was designated a National
Monument in 1925 during Calvin Coolidge's presidency.
Over the decades, its boundarieswere expanded and it was
designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1979 as part of
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a larger international park system shared with Canada.
In 1980, with the passage of theAlaska National Interest Land
Conservation Act, Anilka GlacierBay became a National Park and
preserve. Today the park is Co managed
with an emphasis on both preservation and public
enjoyment. It is one of the least
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developed, yet most spectacular national parks in the US.
This is a unique National Park in many ways, but one of the
most interesting facts is that most people access the park via
cruise ships. Trail Trivia What percentage of
visitors to Glacier Bay NationalPark arrive on a cruise ship?
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According to the NPS website, cruise ships bring more than 95%
of all visitors to Glacier Bay. Long before European
exploration, Glacier Bay was home to the Klingit people,
specifically the Huna Klingit. Their oral traditions tell of
life in the valley before it wasfilled with ice.
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When the glaciers advanced during the Little Ice Age, they
displaced the Huna cling it fromtheir ancestral homeland.
Despite the displacement, the Huna maintained cultural ties to
the region, returning to hunt, fish and gather resources.
In recent years, efforts have been made to honor and integrate
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Indigenous knowledge into the management of the park.
The Huna Tribal House, built in Bartlett Cove in 2016, stands as
a symbol of cultural resilience and collaboration.
It serves as a venue for traditional gatherings, cultural
exchange, and public education. Glaciers and natural features At
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the heart of the park are its Glaciers Trail Trivia.
How many glaciers are there in Glacier Bay National Park Over
1000 The most famous tidewater glaciers include Marjorie
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Glacier, Johns Hopkins Glacier, and Lamplugh Glacier.
These ice giants are known for their calving events, where
chunks of ice crash into the Bay, creating thunderous roars
and floating icebergs. I was so lucky to experience a
calving event during my first visit to Glacier Bay via cruise
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ship 20 years ago. Calving is when icebergs break
off of a glacier and thunderous is a very accurate description.
Much of the parks 3.3 million acres is rarely seen.
Remote lakes, the Muir Inlet andupper reaches of the park offer
distant and tranquil settings, often accessible only by kayak,
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small boat, Bush plane, or by foot.
In previous episodes we've talked about high tide, low
tide, tide pools. So now let's discuss tidewaters.
Tidewaters, also known as tidal ranges, refer to the vertical
difference between high tide andlow tide in coastal regions.
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In Alaska, these tidal ranges are particularly dramatic and
play a significant role in shaping the landscape,
influencing marine life, and impacting navigation.
In the Southeast and South Central parts of Alaska, tidal
ranges are among the largest in the world.
For instance, Cook Inlet, located near Anchorage,
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experiences some of the highest tidal fluctuations on Earth,
with tides rising and falling over 30 feet, or about 9 meters.
In Juneau and other areas of Southeast Alaska, tides
typically range between 15 and 25 feet, while Glacier Bay
experiences fluctuations of 12 to 18 feet.
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These significant tidal changes are largely due to the geography
of Alaska's coastline. Narrow inlets, fjords and bays
serve as natural funnels that amplify tidal effects.
Even though Alaska ranks among the top regions for tidal
variation, it does not claim thevery highest tides.
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Trail Trivia Where are the highest tidal ranges on Earth?
The Bay of Fundy Located betweenNova Scotia and New Brunswick in
Canada, the Bay of Fundy holds the record for the world's
highest tides, with a tidal range reaching up to 53 feet or
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16 meters. Other locations around the world
also experience large tidal ranges.
The Bristol Channel in the UK can see tidal changes of up to
50 feet and Ungava Bay in Quebectypically experiences tidal
ranges from 40 to 45 feet. Conversely, some parts of the
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world see almost no tidal variation at all.
For example, the Mediterranean Sea has minimal tides, often
less than one foot, due to its semi enclosed geography and the
restricted flow of water throughthe Strait of Gibraltar.
Similarly, the Caribbean Sea andthe Gulf of Mexico generally
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experienced tidal ranges between1 and 2 feet.
The Baltic Sea also has very small tidal shifts, typically
less than one foot, as a result of its enclosed basin and
limited exchange with open oceanwaters.
Understanding tidal ranges is important because they affect
various aspects of life and the environment.
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In places like Glacier Bay, timing tides is essential for
safe boating. Tides also influence the
behavior of marine wildlife and shape intertidal ecosystems,
where many species depend on regular cycles of exposure and
submersion. Additionally, tidal patterns
play a key role in coastal infrastructure planning and
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environmental management. They create both challenges and
opportunities, influencing everything from natural habitats
and species migration to human activities and settlement
patterns along its shores. Now that we have a deeper
understanding of tide waters andknow that Glacier Bay has over
1000 glaciers, let's explore glaciers.
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What is a glacier? A glacier begins high in the
mountains, where snowfall exceeds melt year after year.
Snow accumulates in a natural depression, compacting under its
own weight. Fluffy flakes transform into
dense, granular snow and eventually into solid ice.
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Unlike freezer ice, glacier ice forms slowly under intense
pressure. Its crystals can grow as large
as footballs. Air trapped between snowflakes
gets sealed into the ice, addingto its unique texture.
Under pressure, glacier ice behaves like a slow moving
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plastic flowing downhill over bedrock.
Melt water from friction at the base helps it slide more easily.
Once the ice begins to move under its own weight, it becomes
a glacier. Glaciers flow downhill like
frozen rivers, grinding away at the mountainsides and carving
classic U-shaped valleys. As they descend into warmer
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areas, the ice begins to melt. When melting outpaces the ice
supply from above, the glacier stops advancing, but the ice
still flows like a conveyor beltfeeding the lower valleys.
Glaciers come in many forms. Here are four different types.
Valley glaciers. These stay confined within
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mountain valleys #2 Piedmont glaciers.
These glaciers spread out when reaching flat land #3 Hanging
glaciers. These drop off cliffs or steep
terrain and four tidewater glaciers.
These glaciers, the stars of Glacier Bay, reach the sea.
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Several tidewater glaciers in Glacier Bay cab dramatically
into saltwater, shedding massiveice chunks, sometimes as tall as
200 feet into the sea. These floating icebergs can last
days or weeks, offering purchasefor birds and haul outs for
seals. Paddle near one in a kayak and
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you'll hear the fizz and crackleof ancient air escaping, known
as Bergie Seltzer. Iceberg color reveals its
makeup. White ice is full of trapped
air, blue ice is dense and newlycarved, green or black ice may
come from a glaciers bottom, andbrown striped ice carries rocky
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debris picked up along the glaciers path.
Glaciers are in constant motion and renewal.
Snow falling high in the mountains today will take
decades or even centuries to reappear at the glaciers
terminus in Glacier Bay. The ice at a glacier's face is
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estimated to be about 200 years old.
Flora and Fauna As the glaciers have retreated, they have left
behind a pristine wilderness that stages ecological
succession in real time. Early pioneer species such as
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mosses, lichens and fire weed take hold in the barren soil.
Overtime, Alder and Cottonwood trees grow, followed by sicka,
spruce and western hemlock, forming dense temperate
rainforests. Glacier Bay is home to more than
300 species of plants, from towering conifers to small
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orchids. Many plants provide shelter and
food for many animals, and many animals help plants to reproduce
by spreading their pollen and seeds.
The Sitka spruce, a giant of thetemperate rainforest.
A defining feature of the temperate rainforest of
Southeast Alaska is the Sitka spruce.
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Sitka spruce ranks as one of thetallest trees in the world.
Trail Trivia How many conifer species are taller than the
Sitka spruce? Only two.
Sitka spruce ranks as the third tallest coniferous tree species
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on Earth, behind the coast Redwood and the Tibetan Cypress.
It also ranks as the 5th tallestplant species in the world.
The tallest eucalyptus, also called mountain ash, and the
tallest yellow moranti, are mereinches taller than the highest.
Sick of spruce? Eucalyptus and yellow moranti
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are considered flowering plants because they produce flowers and
develop fruits. While they look like trees and
are commonly referred to as trees, the defining
characteristic of flowering plants, the presence of flowers
and fruits, applies to Eucalyptus and yellow moranti.
The tallest eucalyptus, named Centurion, can be found in
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southeast Australia in Tasmania,and the tallest yellow marante
named Minara, can be found on Borneo.
Native to the West Coast, ranging from Northern California
to Alaska, Sitka spruce thrives in the cool, moist climate of
the coastal temperate rainforest.
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Deeply integrated into the ecological and cultural fabric
of its native regions, it is both a biological marvel and an
invaluable resource. Trail Trivia What is the name of
the tallest Sikka Spruce and where is it located?
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The tallest Sikka Spruce is named Ravens Tower, coming in at
329 feet, and is located in Prairie Creek Redwood State Park
in Northern California. It's straight trunk and narrow
crown make it easily identifiable, while it's thin,
flaky bark and sharp, stiff needles set it apart from other
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evergreens. The tree's needles are bluish
green and are flattened, allowing for efficient
photosynthesis even in low lightforest environments.
The Sikka Spruce is named after the town of Sikka, located in
Southeast Alaska, where the treeis particularly abundant.
Ecologically, the Sikka spruce plays a vital role in the
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coastal forest ecosystem. It provides habitat and shelter
for a wide range of wildlife, including birds, mammals, and
insects. Its roots help prevent erosion
along steep coastal slopes, and it's dense canopy contributes to
the humid, shaded understory necessary for many plant and
fungi species to thrive. Beyond its ecological
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importance, the sickest Bruce has been highly valued by humans
for centuries. Indigenous peoples of the
Pacific Northwest utilize the tree for a variety of purposes,
including canoes, paddles, and basket weaving.
The inner bark could be eaten intimes of scarcity and the resin,
also called pitch, was used for medicinal and waterproofing
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purposes. In modern times, the wood of the
Sitka spruce is prized for its strength to weight ratio and
acoustic qualities, making it a preferred material in aircraft
construction during World War 2 and in the crafting of musical
instruments like guitars, violins and pianos.
Despite its robustness, the Sitka spruce faces challenges
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from logging, climate change, and pests such as the spruce
beetle. Logging, particularly in the
20th century, greatly reduced the extent of old growth forests
where these giants once flourished.
Efforts to preserve and sustainably manage sick as
spruce populations are ongoing, with conservationists
emphasizing the importance of maintaining biodiversity and
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forest integrity in the face of global environmental changes.
The sick of spruce is more than just a tall tree.
It is a keystone species in one of the world's rarest forest
types and a bridge between natural heritage and human
history. As we look to preserve the
world's forest, the sick of Spruce stands as a symbol of
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resilience, ecological value andthe profound connection between
people and the land. Glacier Bay National Park and
Preserve has other rare species too.
One example is a leafy liver wart, which was recently found
in the park and is considered extremely rare.
The park actively monitors and protects rare plant species.
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Glacier Bay is a unique locationfor studying plant succession,
where the land is gradually recolonized after the glaciers
recede. This process results in a
diverse range of plant life, including rare species that are
adapted to the specific conditions of the area.
In the early stages of succession, wind, birds and
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animals carry spores and seeds into barren landscapes.
Lichens are often the first to establish, anchoring to rock
with root like rhizomes and absorbing nutrients from air and
rain. As they grow, lichens produce
acids that breakdown rock, gradually forming the first
layers of soil. Once soil forms mosses, Avons,
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which are low growing mat forming perennials in the Rose
family, horsetail and fire weed begin to take root.
These pioneers paved the way forAlder and Cottonwood thickets,
which enriched the soil through nitrogen fixation and create
shelter for species like Willow.The most developed ecosystems
lie furthest from the glaciers near the mouth of Glacier Bay.
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Lowlands are now cloaked in the mature spruce, hemlock,
rainforest and lush Musk egg. A Musk egg is a North American
swamp or bog consisting of a mixture of water and partly dead
vegetation, often covered by a layer of sphagnum or other
mosses. In the surrounding Highlands,
Alpine meadows are carpeted withheath, which is a dwarf shrub
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with small leathery leaves and small pink or purple bell shaped
flowers and vibrant mats of wildflowers.
All in all, Glacier Bay stands as one of the world's premier
natural laboratories for studying plant succession.
Wildlife is also abundant and diverse in Glacier Bay.
Marine mammals such as humpback whales, orcas, harbor seals, sea
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otters and stellar sea lions populate the cold, nutrient rich
waters on land. Brown bears, black bears,
wolves, mountain goats and mooseare the largest of the mammals.
Bird watchers will be delighted by puffins, bald eagles and in
total 281 observed species of birds in the park thanks to its
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diverse food rich breeding habitats with minimal land
predators. Seabirds like gulls, puffins and
cormorants nest on cliffs and rocky shores throughout the
park. Notable nesting sites include
the Marble Islands, Marjorie andJohns Hopkins glaciers, and Hugh
Miller Inlet. In summer, large flocks of
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fallow ropes, which are slender necked shore birds, sea ducks
and foraging gulls are common. In winter, loons, merlits, and
sea ducks dominate. Bald eagles are widespread along
the shorelines year round. The park supports globally
significant populations of two at risk species, marbled and
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kitlets. Muirlets, Marbled muralits
likely breed in the old growth forest along Icy Strait.
Elusive and unique, they lay a single egg on mossy branches
high in the spruce or hemlock trees.
The chick, left alone after fledging, makes its own way to
the sea, sometimes over 30 miles.
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Glacier Bay may support up to 20% of the global Kitlitz Merlit
population. Most of the species breeds in
Alaska, nesting on the ground inrecently deglaciated terrain.
Though stable in Glacier Bay, populations have declined
elsewhere, prompting concern, especially as glacial loss
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threatens their habitat. Land birds are fewer in winter,
but species such as common Ravens, Northwestern crows,
Black billed Magpies, Pacific wrens and American 3 toed
woodpeckers remain. Glacier Bay waters support over
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200 fish species across 950 square miles of ocean and more
than 1000 freshwater habitats. From tiny forage fish like
herring and sand lands to massive Pacific halibut and
sleeper sharks, fish are essential to the park's food
web. Small schooling fish such as
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Kaplan and juvenile salmon form a vital link between plankton
and larger predators. Kaplan, once abundant in the
Gulf of Alaska, have declined due to warming seas and
predation. However, Glacier Bays, glacial
fjords may serve as a refuge, helping sustained populations
during warmer periods and potentially aiding regional
recovery. Salmon also play a critical
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ecological role as anandramous fish.
They migrate from the ocean to freshwater to spawn, bringing
marine nutrients that enrich streams, support aquatic life,
and even fertilize forests when predators drag carcasses ashore.
According to the NPS website, anatomous fish are fish that
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spend part of their life cycle in the ocean and then return to
freshwater to spawn. Fish such as salmon, trout, and
char evolved an anatomous life cycle as a way to maximize
growth and reproduction. Growth is maximized by feeding
in productive oceans rather thancomparatively nutrient porous
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streams. However, freshwater streams are
optimal for reproduction becauseeggs and juveniles have fewer
predators than in the ocean. There are 12 species of
anadremous fish found in GlacierBay. 5 species of Pacific salmon
frequent the fresh and salt waters, Chinook, coho, sockeye,
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chum and pink salmon. Several species of trout and
char also spend time in the park.
The coastal cutthroat trout, steelhead, also called coastal
rainbow trout, and Dolly Varden Char yulishan, a type of smelt,
are also found in the park waters.
I encourage you to learn more about each species.
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For information on descriptions,abundance, spawning timing in
freshwater, and distribution among park and preserve streams
for each of these anadromous species, visit the link that I
will include in the show notes. Glacier Bay, in part, was
established to study ecological succession after glacial
retreat. Doctor Sandy Milner's 35 year
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study on stream and fish colonization is the longest of
its kind. His work shows that new streams
can be colonized by species likeDolly Varden and pink salmon and
as little as a decade, highlighting nature's remarkable
resilience and adaptability. Glacier Bay is a protected
marine environment and boating is carefully regulated to
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minimize ecological disturbance.Private boaters must obtain a
free permit to enter the Bay during the summer season, June
through August. Speed restrictions and area
closures are enforced to protectwhales and other wildlife.
Fishing is permitted, but regulations differ depending on
whether 1 is in the park or preserve.
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Sport fishing is allowed with estate license, but subsistence
fishing is generally limited to Alaska Native residents.
Commercial fishing is phased outin most areas, although limited
operations continue under grandfathered permits.
Now a few animal highlights of the park.
Stellar sea lions, like all eared seals, can walk on land
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using their flippers and move with surprising agility in
water. They are graceful swimmers,
performing flips and rolls with ease.
Adult males can weigh up to 2000lbs, while females average about
600 lbs. During mating season, dominant
males compete for harems at rookeries along the outer coast,
while younger, non breeding males gather at haul outs like
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South Marble Island. Although the population is
growing, Alaska's stellar sea lion numbers have declined by
80% since the late 1970s, prompting their endangered
status. Harbor seals, which we discussed
in depth in our San Juan Island episode, are well adapted to
cold waters. Unlike sea lions, they lack
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external ear flaps and cannot lift themselves on land, instead
scooting on their bellies, called galloping.
While clumsy on ice, they are agile hunters in the water.
Each summer up to 1700, seals gather in Johns Hopkins Inlet to
pup and mate, though recent studies show a 75% population
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decline there over the past decade.
Trail Trivia What animal has thethickest fur on the planet?
Sea Otters In the past 20 years,Glacier Bay's sea Otter
population has surged from zero to nearly 9000.
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As voracious predators of shellfish like crabs and clams,
they have a major impact on the marine ecosystem, likely driving
significant changes underwater. Unlike other marine mammals, sea
otters lack blubber and rely on their dense fur, up to 1,000,000
hairs per square inch for insulation.
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Often seen floating on their backs, they eat, groom and rest
at the surface. Their dark brown fur gradually
lightens around the face as theyage.
Harbor porpoises, often mistakenfor dolphins, are Alaska's
smallest cetaceans, reaching about 5 feet in length and 120
lbs. Usually seen in small groups,
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they reveal their presence with a brief glimpse of their small
triangular dorsal fin as they surface.
Dark grey with a slightly pointed snout, they avoid bow
waves, unlike their larger cousin.
The dolls. Porpoise Dolls porpoises which
resemble miniature orcas in black and white, are more
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commonly spotted near the park'sentrance and in icy straight.
These endangered giants reach 40to 50 feet and weigh over 35
tons. Humpbacks are baleen whales.
All baleen whales have baleen instead of teeth, which they use
to collect shrimp like krill, plankton, and small fish from
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the sea. Baleen is made out of keratin,
the same protein that makes up human fingernails and hair.
These bristly baleen plates filter, sift, sieve or trap the
whales favorite prey from the seawater inside their mouths.
The humpback whales migration from Alaska to Hawaii and back
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is one of the longest known migrations of any mammal, and
remarkably, it involves months of fasting each year.
Most humpback whales that feed in Glacier Bay and other parts
of Alaska undertake a 5000 mile round trip to the warm, shallow
waters of Hawaii. This journey takes about a month
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each way and during the entire time they are in tropical
waters, usually from December toApril, they do not eat at all.
Tropical waters lack the dense schools of fish and krill that
are abundant in Alaska. Instead of feeding, humpbacks
spend their time mating, giving birth and nursing cabs.
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Females in particular can lose up to a third of their body
weight as much as £27,000, especially if they're nursing a
calf which consumes large amounts of nutrient rich milk.
To sustain themselves, humpbacksbuild up thick fat reserves or
blubber during their feeding season in Alaska, which
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typically runs from May to September.
We were there in July 2024 and took a whale watching excursion,
which is expensive but worth it because we saw so many whales
and learned so much during thesemonths.
In Alaskan waters, they consume up to 3000 lbs of small fish and
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krill per day, gorging on species like herring, Kaplan,
and sand Lance. These fat reserves provide both
energy and insulation during themigration and tropical fasting
period. Seeing the humpback whales in
Glacier Bay was the absolute highlight from our trip in July
2024. I will be sure to post some
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videos on Instagram. Fasting is an evolutionary trade
off. Warm tropical waters are safer
for birthing calves. They're free of ice and have
fewer predators, but they're biologically poor in food, so
humpbacks have prioritized reproduction over feeding until
they return N for the summer. Last marine animal highlight
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before we discuss our time in this area and then leave you
with a Junior Ranger activity. Commonly known as orcas, most
people prefer the name killer whale for this striking species,
which is the largest member of the dolphin family.
They grow up to 26 feet long andcan weigh between 4:00 and 8:00
tons. 3 distinct ecotypes, similar to subspecies, may be
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seen in Glacier Bay. One resident killer whales,
these orcas stay near their homewaters and feed mainly on fish.
2 transients. They roam more widely in hunt
marine mammals and three offshore killer whales, which
stay in open ocean environments and are rarely seen in the Bay.
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Orcas are apex predators with a diverse diet, but their main
food source varies depending on the specific population and
location. Generally, orcas eat fish,
marine mammals, and squid. Some populations specialize in
specific prey like seals, sea lions or whales.
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Killer whales have been documented to prey on humpback
calves in Hawaii. Though adult humpbacks are
generally not haunted by orcas, orcas are not common in Hawaii.
This is one of the reasons why humpback whales migrate to
warmer waters like Hawaii to give birth.
In the case of an attack, adult humpback whales will defend
their calves, often using their powerful flippers and tails to
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keep orcas at Bay. Access and Activities Despite
its remoteness, Glacier Bay offers a variety of activities
for adventurous travellers and nature lovers.
Visitors can kayak through serene coves, hike forested
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trails, or take guided wildlife tours.
Bartlett Cove, the park's headquarters, offers the only
developed campground and a visitor center with interpretive
exhibits. Ranger LED programs provide
educational insights into the park's geology, ecology, and
cultural heritage. Backcountry camping, tidewater
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glacier viewing, bird watching and photography are popular
pursuits. Since 95% of visitors arrived by
cruise ship, it's unlikely you'll visit Bartlett Cove.
We haven't either. Still, cruising is a fascinating
way to experience Glacier Bay. One major advantage, especially
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for us traveling with a 7 month old last summer, was having all
meals provided on board. It allowed us to fully enjoy our
time and focus on soaking in thescenery from the water and when
docked, to enjoy hiking, exploring and excursions.
Without added logistics, there are many variables to consider
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when booking a cruise. We combined this trip with our
visit to Washington State's national parks and San Juan
Island National Historical Park,which we shared about a couple
of weeks ago. We turned this into a road trip
which allowed us the mobility without having to rent any
vehicles, which can become quiteexpensive quickly.
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Most people who take an Alaskan cruise fly into Seattle, the
port we chose to depart from. We parked at Seattle Cruise
Park, which was $200 for the 9 days.
Remote work has been the key to making this kind of travel
possible. It's allowed us to explore so
many national parks and park units in a relatively short time
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and I'm incredibly grateful for that.
Me too. We took this trip with my
maternal grandmother, my mom, and the older of my 2 younger
sisters. While coordinating for a larger
group added some complexity, it made the experience even more
meaningful to share it with moreof our family.
Robin and I chose an inside stateroom, which is the cheapest
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option, and so did the rest of the family.
These are tiny and have no window, but we wanted to focus
our budget and time elsewhere, and this was simply where we
went to sleep. When planning, we focused on
finding A7 day Inside Passage cruise that included Glacier
Bay, but it's important to checkitineraries carefully.
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Not all Alaskan cruises enter the National Park.
After some research, we opted for a nine day cruise which was
essentially the same price as the seven day.
If you can take the extra coupledays off of work, it's
absolutely worth it. This was a very special trip for
all of us, but it holds a special place for me because it
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was my 50th state and my 50th National Park.
We planned this trip well in advance, though rooms were still
available just days before departure.
One major benefit of early planning was the ability to
research excursions. I highly recommend comparing
cruise line offerings with booking directly through local
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companies. Independent bookings often cost
less and ensure more of your money supports the small
businesses which don't have to pay hefty commissions to the
cruise line. Taking all factors into account,
cruises offer competitive per night pricing for a major trip.
However, we are mindful of the environmental impact and do not
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intend to cruise often. Congratulations on becoming part
of the 5050 Club. 50 states, 50 national parks.
Now a recap of the activities wechose and a few highlights from
our trip. The first port of call was
Sitka. I planned a loose itinerary at
each stop and we were not able to do everything we wanted in
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Sitka. We stopped at the Wildflower
Cafe and Bakery, had a walk around downtown, bought salt at
the Alaska Pure Sea Salt Company, ate at Pelmeni, The
Russian dumplings were amazing, and Ludwig's chowder cart.
The highlight in Sitka was a walk along the Sitka National
Historical Park Trail, just a 15minute walk away from downtown.
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The almost entirely flat trail is gravel, paved and lined by
over 20 totem poles. The park has multiple loops
ranging from a 10 minute walk toan hour loop.
At the entrance to the park is aNational Park visitor center
with exhibits on traditional Klingit Life, a 12 minute film
which we watched and preserved original totem poles on the
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path. We foraged for the abundant red
huckleberries that were perfectly ripe and they were
incredible. I asked the park Ranger and they
allow people to take 1 quart perday from the park.
In the late summer and early fall, visitors can view the
salmon spawning. We saw salmon spawning at almost
every port of call. Old Sitka Dock, which is Sitka
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Sound Cruise Terminal, is located about 6 miles north of
downtown. A Freeport shuttle runs every 10
to 15 minutes between the dock and downtown Sitka, dropping off
and picking up at Harrigan Centennial Hall.
Although there are other options, this was the best
option for us and worked out perfectly.
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Between our first and 2nd ports of call was a day at sea and the
designated time inside Glacier Bay National Park viewing the
glaciers up close, the various wildlife that chose to show
themselves, including many largegroups of sea otters.
Park Rangers board the cruise ships to provide interpretation,
storytelling and educational presentations.
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Be sure to check out this presentation, I thoroughly
enjoyed it. Our second port of call was
Skagway. Skagway has a distinct and
charming Wild West feel. For our first activity in
Skagway, we took a lovely and easy 1.6 mile hike to Yakatanya
Point, which led us through a forest and along a rocky
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coastline. We spotted mushrooms and even
saw a small animal that remindedus of Timon from The Lion King.
After our hike, we walked downtown and visited the
National Park Service building on 2nd Ave. to pick up maps,
explore the museum, and watch the free park film about
Skagway's Gold Rush history. The highlight of our Skagway
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stop was the White Pass and Yukon Route Railway, a three
hour, 40 mile round trip scenic ride.
The vintage rail cars took us from Tidewater up to the White
Pass summit at 2865 feet. With narration and views of
Bridal Veil Falls, Inspiration Point, Dead Horse Gulch and the
historic Klondike Trail of 1898,this narrow gauge railway is
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recognized internationally as a historic civil engineering
landmark. Juno was the next stop.
It included a whale watching andglacier tour, delicious lunch at
Deckhand, Dave's, fish tacos, walking around the downtown
area, and riding the tram. We booked the whale watching and
Mendenhall Glacier tour with whale watching adventures.
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This was one of those times. I highly recommend booking
directly with the company ratherthan through the cruise.
Because we chose the early time slot, we were the only ones on
the boat, which made the experience even better.
The five hour tour began at 8:45AM and departed from the base of
Mount Roberts Tramway, which is easy to spot from the cruise
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dock thanks to the bright red gondolas moving up and down the
mountain. The tour included hot and cold
beverages, a sweet treat, binoculars, and great commentary
from the captain and naturalist.We saw a ton of humpback whales.
It was a major highlight. The tour also included time at
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Mendenhall Glacier where we hiked to Nugget Falls, a
relatively easy two mile round trip walk on a mostly paved
trail. The waterfall is massive and
impressive. On the way back we took an
unpaved trail near the water where we crossed streams on
stepping stones and saw salmon swimming upstream.
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An unforgettable moment. On the drive back to town, we
saw dozens of bald eagles in an area the shuttle driver told us
the locals call Eagle's Nest. In the afternoon, we rode the
Gold Belt tram, which took us 1800 feet above Juneau for
panoramic views of the city and surrounding wilderness.
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At the top, there's a short nature trail, a gift shop,
restaurant and a complimentary film.
Unfortunately, we had to wait inline for 30 minutes each way,
and the tram was very crowded. Because of the delays, we only
had time for a brief walk at thesummit.
Finally, we enjoyed a leisurely walk around Juno's historic
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downtown, browsing shops and enjoying the charming
atmosphere. The 4th port of call was icy
straight point. This particular morning we were
incredibly lucky to see some spectacular displays of what is
called bubble net feeding. This is when a humpback whale
blows bubbles to create a net like barrier, trapping prey like
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fish or krill, which they then gulp down as they swim through
the bubbles. I'll be sure to add some videos
of this to Instagram. Upon disembarking, we explored
the Nature Trail, a short half mile loop located right near the
Adventure Center in port. This trail winds through lush
forest and offers peaceful, pretty views, perfect for a
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brief nature walk. Next we visited the cannery,
museum and shops. Housed in a large red warehouse
just a 7 minute walk from the ship.
It features local crafts, gifts and food items, a great place to
browse and pick up souvenirs. We also walked 1.5 miles along
the waterfront to reach the village of Huna, the largest
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Klingit community in Alaska. Another option is a round trip
shuttle available for $5. While the walk was pleasant and
we spotted bald eagles and several totem poles, there
wasn't much to do in the villageitself beyond a few shops and
restaurants. A free gondola, known as the
Transporter, connects WildernessLanding to the Adventure Center.
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The five minute ride offers lovely views of the surrounding
rainforest. We took it on the way back to
the ship and found it to be an enjoyable and scenic experience.
Ketchikan was our fifth stop. A free downtown shuttle runs
every 20 minutes when large cruise ships are in port,
servicing the downtown area, cruise ship berths and several
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local attractions, including theTongass Historical Museum and
the Totem Heritage Center. The town of Ketchikan is about 3
miles long, with a compact downtown area that's only about
four blocks deep. We started our visit at Historic
Creek St. home to boutiques, museums, and artisan shops.
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The view of Ketchikan Creek was lovely, and we were amazed by
the sheer number of salmon attempting to swim upstream.
It was wild to watch. This was by far the most salmon
any of us have ever seen at one time.
At 10 Creek St. we stopped in the Sam Mcgee's, which features
a wonderful selection of locallysourced Alaskan goods including
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soaps, bone handled knives, cookbooks and fossils.
Everything in the shop is made in Alaska and felt truly unique.
Another great stop was Crazy Wolf Studio and Artist Studio,
featuring locally made gifts andoriginal artwork.
We attempted to hike the Rain Bird Trail, a 2.1 mile out and
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back trail with a 541 foot elevation gain.
To reach the trailhead, we had to walk quite a ways up an
extremely steep St. and cross a busy Rd.
Unfortunately, rain made the trail slippery and we turned
back early. While the trail offers some
views of the water, we didn't find it especially scenic and
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wouldn't recommend it unless theweather is clear.
The final port of call was Victoria, BC, but we were only
allotted about four hours off the ship and docking wasn't
until evening to keep the sleep schedule.
I stayed on board to make sure the sleep routine with the baby
stayed intact. I chose a 2 hour bus and walking
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excursion that began at the cruise terminal and followed the
scenic seawall past manicured gardens and homes with views of
the Strait of Juan de Fuca and the Olympic Mountains.
The tour continued into downtownVictoria, a vibrant area full of
shops, restaurants and landmarks.
The Inner Harbor was lively withSt. performers, food and craft
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vendors, and key historic sites.The local guide shared
fascinating stories and insightsabout the city's history and
character. Even if you chose to stay on the
ship the entire time, the stunning views of the coastline
and surrounding islands would make the experience worthwhile.
We made it a priority to get outand hike and walk around at each
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stop. Even with a baby, this was an
incredible trip and would recommend this as a great option
to visit Glacier Bay. Final trail trivia for this
episode. How many islands are there in
Southeast Alaska 1100? These islands are the tops of a
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submerged coastal mountain rangeforming the Alexander
Archipelago. The archipelago extends from
Glacier Bay and Cross Sound to the Dixon Entrance.
The views of distant islands andmountains, along with the
incredible wildlife, especially whales and other marine life,
made this corner of Southeast Alaska an unforgettable
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experience, one that's difficultto access by land.
The cruise offered not only breathtaking scenery, but also
meaningful, high quality family time.
The Junior Ranger section of theNational Park Service website is
well worth exploring. It features interactive videos,
maps, and engaging content that complements the Junior Ranger
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Handbook perfectly. For this Junior Ranger activity,
we're leaving you with a fun andrewarding challenge.
Visit the NPS website and find the Junior Ranger section.
Watch the videos, complete the answer sheet, and submit it to
earn your official Junior Rangerbadge.
Glacier Bay National Park and Preserve is more than just a
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destination. It is a living, breathing
landscape that embodies the power of nature, the depth of
cultural heritage, and the importance of conservation.
From its dramatic geological history and resilient indigenous
cultures to its thriving ecosystems and stunning scenery,
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Glacier Bay stands as a testament to the enduring beauty
and complexity of the natural world.
For those who venture into its icy embrace, the park offers a
journey into the past, a haven for wildlife, and a canvas for
unforgettable adventures. If you haven't visited Glacier
Bay yet, we hope this inspired you to add it to your bucket
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list. If you enjoy this episode, make
sure to like, share, and follow us for more outdoor adventures.
And all you Junior Rangers out there, good luck on earning your
badge. And hey, if you've earned a
Junior Ranger badge recently, send us a picture.
We'd love to see it. And if you want, feel free to
share your latest story from your time in a National Park
unit. Who knows, maybe we will mention
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it in one of our upcoming episodes.
Be sure to include in the e-mailthat you grant us permission to
Share your story. I will include our e-mail
address npjrpodcast@gmail.com inour show notes.
And feel free to follow us on our adventures on Instagram at
NPJR Podcast. Until next time, happy trails
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and remember the Earth is ours to explore and protect, so let's
get out there and do it. Explore, learn and protect.
Welcome to NPJR, where we explore the great outdoors one
National Park at a time. I'm Justin.
And I'm Robin, we encourage you to pause the podcast at any time
and discuss some of our talking points or try answering our
trail trivias. Today.
We're heading to a land of glaciers and rugged wilderness
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tucked away in the southeast coast of Alaska Glacier Bay
National Park. Located along the rugged SE
coast of Alaska, Glacier Bay National Park and Preserve
encompasses A stunning 3.3 million acres of fjords,
temperate rainforest, towering mountains, dynamic tidewater
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glaciers, and 1200 miles of coastline.
It is a place where geology is alive, where ancient ice has
sculpted the land, and where indigenous cultures and diverse
ecosystems thrive. Glacier Bay National Park is the
7th largest National Park in theUS.
In 2024, Glacier Bay welcomed over 736,000 visitors, setting a
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record for annual attendance. We are so fortunate to have been
part of this record setting attendance.
Since Glacier Bay became a National Park unit, over
15,000,000 people have visited. The story of Glacier Bay begins
over 200 million years ago when tectonic forces collided oceanic
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plates with the North American plate, forming the mountains of
Southeast Alaska. Over successive ice ages,
glaciers carved deep fjords and valleys into the land.
A fjord is a long, narrow, deep inlet of the sea between high
cliffs. During the Little Ice Age.
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The year is 1550 to 1850 approximately.
Glacier Bay was filled with a massive tidewater glacier.
When the English naturalist and explorer Captain George
Vancouver sailed by in 1794, theglacier extended into Icy
Strait. The glacier began to retreat
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rapidly. By the time the naturalist John
Muir visited in 1879, the glacier had receded 48 miles up
the Bay. This unprecedented retreat
became one of the most studied examples of glacial recession
and geological change in the world.
The continuing movement of ice, sediment and water makes Glacier
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Bay a living laboratory for geologists and climate
scientists. Inspired by John Muir's writings
and advocacy, Glacier Bay, it was designated a National
Monument in 1925 during Calvin Coolidge's presidency.
Over the decades, its boundarieswere expanded and it was
designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1979 as part of
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a larger international park system shared with Canada.
In 1980, with the passage of theAlaska National Interest Land
Conservation Act, Anilka GlacierBay became a National Park and
preserve. Today the park is Co managed
with an emphasis on both preservation and public
enjoyment. It is one of the least
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developed, yet most spectacular national parks in the US.
This is a unique National Park in many ways, but one of the
most interesting facts is that most people access the park via
cruise ships. Trail Trivia What percentage of
visitors to Glacier Bay NationalPark arrive on a cruise ship?
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According to the NPS website, cruise ships bring more than 95%
of all visitors to Glacier Bay. Long before European
exploration, Glacier Bay was home to the Klingit people,
specifically the Huna Klingit. Their oral traditions tell of
life in the valley before it wasfilled with ice.
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When the glaciers advanced during the Little Ice Age, they
displaced the Huna cling it fromtheir ancestral homeland.
Despite the displacement, the Huna maintained cultural ties to
the region, returning to hunt, fish and gather resources.
In recent years, efforts have been made to honor and integrate
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Indigenous knowledge into the management of the park.
The Huna Tribal House, built in Bartlett Cove in 2016, stands as
a symbol of cultural resilience and collaboration.
It serves as a venue for traditional gatherings, cultural
exchange, and public education. Glaciers and natural features At
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the heart of the park are its Glaciers Trail Trivia.
How many glaciers are there in Glacier Bay National Park Over
1000 The most famous tidewater glaciers include Marjorie
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Glacier, Johns Hopkins Glacier, and Lamplugh Glacier.
These ice giants are known for their calving events, where
chunks of ice crash into the Bay, creating thunderous roars
and floating icebergs. I was so lucky to experience a
calving event during my first visit to Glacier Bay via cruise
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ship 20 years ago. Calving is when icebergs break
off of a glacier and thunderous is a very accurate description.
Much of the parks 3.3 million acres is rarely seen.
Remote lakes, the Muir Inlet andupper reaches of the park offer
distant and tranquil settings, often accessible only by kayak,
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small boat, Bush plane, or by foot.
In previous episodes we've talked about high tide, low
tide, tide pools. So now let's discuss tidewaters.
Tidewaters, also known as tidal ranges, refer to the vertical
difference between high tide andlow tide in coastal regions.
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In Alaska, these tidal ranges are particularly dramatic and
play a significant role in shaping the landscape,
influencing marine life, and impacting navigation.
In the Southeast and South Central parts of Alaska, tidal
ranges are among the largest in the world.
For instance, Cook Inlet, located near Anchorage,
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experiences some of the highest tidal fluctuations on Earth,
with tides rising and falling over 30 feet, or about 9 meters.
In Juneau and other areas of Southeast Alaska, tides
typically range between 15 and 25 feet, while Glacier Bay
experiences fluctuations of 12 to 18 feet.
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These significant tidal changes are largely due to the geography
of Alaska's coastline. Narrow inlets, fjords and bays
serve as natural funnels that amplify tidal effects.
Even though Alaska ranks among the top regions for tidal
variation, it does not claim thevery highest tides.
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Trail Trivia Where are the highest tidal ranges on Earth?
The Bay of Fundy Located betweenNova Scotia and New Brunswick in
Canada, the Bay of Fundy holds the record for the world's
highest tides, with a tidal range reaching up to 53 feet or
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16 meters. Other locations around the world
also experience large tidal ranges.
The Bristol Channel in the UK can see tidal changes of up to
50 feet and Ungava Bay in Quebectypically experiences tidal
ranges from 40 to 45 feet. Conversely, some parts of the
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world see almost no tidal variation at all.
For example, the Mediterranean Sea has minimal tides, often
less than one foot, due to its semi enclosed geography and the
restricted flow of water throughthe Strait of Gibraltar.
Similarly, the Caribbean Sea andthe Gulf of Mexico generally
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experienced tidal ranges between1 and 2 feet.
The Baltic Sea also has very small tidal shifts, typically
less than one foot, as a result of its enclosed basin and
limited exchange with open oceanwaters.
Understanding tidal ranges is important because they affect
various aspects of life and the environment.
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In places like Glacier Bay, timing tides is essential for
safe boating. Tides also influence the
behavior of marine wildlife and shape intertidal ecosystems,
where many species depend on regular cycles of exposure and
submersion. Additionally, tidal patterns
play a key role in coastal infrastructure planning and
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environmental management. They create both challenges and
opportunities, influencing everything from natural habitats
and species migration to human activities and settlement
patterns along its shores. Now that we have a deeper
understanding of tide waters andknow that Glacier Bay has over
1000 glaciers, let's explore glaciers.
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What is a glacier? A glacier begins high in the
mountains, where snowfall exceeds melt year after year.
Snow accumulates in a natural depression, compacting under its
own weight. Fluffy flakes transform into
dense, granular snow and eventually into solid ice.
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Unlike freezer ice, glacier ice forms slowly under intense
pressure. Its crystals can grow as large
as footballs. Air trapped between snowflakes
gets sealed into the ice, addingto its unique texture.
Under pressure, glacier ice behaves like a slow moving
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plastic flowing downhill over bedrock.
Melt water from friction at the base helps it slide more easily.
Once the ice begins to move under its own weight, it becomes
a glacier. Glaciers flow downhill like
frozen rivers, grinding away at the mountainsides and carving
classic U-shaped valleys. As they descend into warmer
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areas, the ice begins to melt. When melting outpaces the ice
supply from above, the glacier stops advancing, but the ice
still flows like a conveyor beltfeeding the lower valleys.
Glaciers come in many forms. Here are four different types.
Valley glaciers. These stay confined within
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mountain valleys #2 Piedmont glaciers.
These glaciers spread out when reaching flat land #3 Hanging
glaciers. These drop off cliffs or steep
terrain and four tidewater glaciers.
These glaciers, the stars of Glacier Bay, reach the sea.
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Several tidewater glaciers in Glacier Bay cab dramatically
into saltwater, shedding massiveice chunks, sometimes as tall as
200 feet into the sea. These floating icebergs can last
days or weeks, offering purchasefor birds and haul outs for
seals. Paddle near one in a kayak and
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you'll hear the fizz and crackleof ancient air escaping, known
as Bergie Seltzer. Iceberg color reveals its
makeup. White ice is full of trapped
air, blue ice is dense and newlycarved, green or black ice may
come from a glaciers bottom, andbrown striped ice carries rocky
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debris picked up along the glaciers path.
Glaciers are in constant motion and renewal.
Snow falling high in the mountains today will take
decades or even centuries to reappear at the glaciers
terminus in Glacier Bay. The ice at a glacier's face is
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estimated to be about 200 years old.
Flora and Fauna As the glaciers have retreated, they have left
behind a pristine wilderness that stages ecological
succession in real time. Early pioneer species such as
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mosses, lichens and fire weed take hold in the barren soil.
Overtime, Alder and Cottonwood trees grow, followed by sicka,
spruce and western hemlock, forming dense temperate
rainforests. Glacier Bay is home to more than
300 species of plants, from towering conifers to small
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orchids. Many plants provide shelter and
food for many animals, and many animals help plants to reproduce
by spreading their pollen and seeds.
The Sitka spruce, a giant of thetemperate rainforest.
A defining feature of the temperate rainforest of
Southeast Alaska is the Sitka spruce.
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Sitka spruce ranks as one of thetallest trees in the world.
Trail Trivia How many conifer species are taller than the
Sitka spruce? Only two.
Sitka spruce ranks as the third tallest coniferous tree species
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on Earth, behind the coast Redwood and the Tibetan Cypress.
It also ranks as the 5th tallestplant species in the world.
The tallest eucalyptus, also called mountain ash, and the
tallest yellow moranti, are mereinches taller than the highest.
Sick of spruce? Eucalyptus and yellow moranti
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are considered flowering plants because they produce flowers and
develop fruits. While they look like trees and
are commonly referred to as trees, the defining
characteristic of flowering plants, the presence of flowers
and fruits, applies to Eucalyptus and yellow moranti.
The tallest eucalyptus, named Centurion, can be found in
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southeast Australia in Tasmania,and the tallest yellow marante
named Minara, can be found on Borneo.
Native to the West Coast, ranging from Northern California
to Alaska, Sitka spruce thrives in the cool, moist climate of
the coastal temperate rainforest.
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Deeply integrated into the ecological and cultural fabric
of its native regions, it is both a biological marvel and an
invaluable resource. Trail Trivia What is the name of
the tallest Sikka Spruce and where is it located?
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The tallest Sikka Spruce is named Ravens Tower, coming in at
329 feet, and is located in Prairie Creek Redwood State Park
in Northern California. It's straight trunk and narrow
crown make it easily identifiable, while it's thin,
flaky bark and sharp, stiff needles set it apart from other
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evergreens. The tree's needles are bluish
green and are flattened, allowing for efficient
photosynthesis even in low lightforest environments.
The Sikka Spruce is named after the town of Sikka, located in
Southeast Alaska, where the treeis particularly abundant.
Ecologically, the Sikka spruce plays a vital role in the
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coastal forest ecosystem. It provides habitat and shelter
for a wide range of wildlife, including birds, mammals, and
insects. Its roots help prevent erosion
along steep coastal slopes, and it's dense canopy contributes to
the humid, shaded understory necessary for many plant and
fungi species to thrive. Beyond its ecological
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importance, the sickest Bruce has been highly valued by humans
for centuries. Indigenous peoples of the
Pacific Northwest utilize the tree for a variety of purposes,
including canoes, paddles, and basket weaving.
The inner bark could be eaten intimes of scarcity and the resin,
also called pitch, was used for medicinal and waterproofing
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purposes. In modern times, the wood of the
Sitka spruce is prized for its strength to weight ratio and
acoustic qualities, making it a preferred material in aircraft
construction during World War 2 and in the crafting of musical
instruments like guitars, violins and pianos.
Despite its robustness, the Sitka spruce faces challenges
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from logging, climate change, and pests such as the spruce
beetle. Logging, particularly in the
20th century, greatly reduced the extent of old growth forests
where these giants once flourished.
Efforts to preserve and sustainably manage sick as
spruce populations are ongoing, with conservationists
emphasizing the importance of maintaining biodiversity and
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forest integrity in the face of global environmental changes.
The sick of spruce is more than just a tall tree.
It is a keystone species in one of the world's rarest forest
types and a bridge between natural heritage and human
history. As we look to preserve the
world's forest, the sick of Spruce stands as a symbol of
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resilience, ecological value andthe profound connection between
people and the land. Glacier Bay National Park and
Preserve has other rare species too.
One example is a leafy liver wart, which was recently found
in the park and is considered extremely rare.
The park actively monitors and protects rare plant species.
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Glacier Bay is a unique locationfor studying plant succession,
where the land is gradually recolonized after the glaciers
recede. This process results in a
diverse range of plant life, including rare species that are
adapted to the specific conditions of the area.
In the early stages of succession, wind, birds and
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animals carry spores and seeds into barren landscapes.
Lichens are often the first to establish, anchoring to rock
with root like rhizomes and absorbing nutrients from air and
rain. As they grow, lichens produce
acids that breakdown rock, gradually forming the first
layers of soil. Once soil forms mosses, Avons,
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which are low growing mat forming perennials in the Rose
family, horsetail and fire weed begin to take root.
These pioneers paved the way forAlder and Cottonwood thickets,
which enriched the soil through nitrogen fixation and create
shelter for species like Willow.The most developed ecosystems
lie furthest from the glaciers near the mouth of Glacier Bay.
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Lowlands are now cloaked in the mature spruce, hemlock,
rainforest and lush Musk egg. A Musk egg is a North American
swamp or bog consisting of a mixture of water and partly dead
vegetation, often covered by a layer of sphagnum or other
mosses. In the surrounding Highlands,
Alpine meadows are carpeted withheath, which is a dwarf shrub
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with small leathery leaves and small pink or purple bell shaped
flowers and vibrant mats of wildflowers.
All in all, Glacier Bay stands as one of the world's premier
natural laboratories for studying plant succession.
Wildlife is also abundant and diverse in Glacier Bay.
Marine mammals such as humpback whales, orcas, harbor seals, sea
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otters and stellar sea lions populate the cold, nutrient rich
waters on land. Brown bears, black bears,
wolves, mountain goats and mooseare the largest of the mammals.
Bird watchers will be delighted by puffins, bald eagles and in
total 281 observed species of birds in the park thanks to its
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diverse food rich breeding habitats with minimal land
predators. Seabirds like gulls, puffins and
cormorants nest on cliffs and rocky shores throughout the
park. Notable nesting sites include
the Marble Islands, Marjorie andJohns Hopkins glaciers, and Hugh
Miller Inlet. In summer, large flocks of
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fallow ropes, which are slender necked shore birds, sea ducks
and foraging gulls are common. In winter, loons, merlits, and
sea ducks dominate. Bald eagles are widespread along
the shorelines year round. The park supports globally
significant populations of two at risk species, marbled and
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kitlets. Muirlets, Marbled muralits
likely breed in the old growth forest along Icy Strait.
Elusive and unique, they lay a single egg on mossy branches
high in the spruce or hemlock trees.
The chick, left alone after fledging, makes its own way to
the sea, sometimes over 30 miles.
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Glacier Bay may support up to 20% of the global Kitlitz Merlit
population. Most of the species breeds in
Alaska, nesting on the ground inrecently deglaciated terrain.
Though stable in Glacier Bay, populations have declined
elsewhere, prompting concern, especially as glacial loss
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threatens their habitat. Land birds are fewer in winter,
but species such as common Ravens, Northwestern crows,
Black billed Magpies, Pacific wrens and American 3 toed
woodpeckers remain. Glacier Bay waters support over
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200 fish species across 950 square miles of ocean and more
than 1000 freshwater habitats. From tiny forage fish like
herring and sand lands to massive Pacific halibut and
sleeper sharks, fish are essential to the park's food
web. Small schooling fish such as
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Kaplan and juvenile salmon form a vital link between plankton
and larger predators. Kaplan, once abundant in the
Gulf of Alaska, have declined due to warming seas and
predation. However, Glacier Bays, glacial
fjords may serve as a refuge, helping sustained populations
during warmer periods and potentially aiding regional
recovery. Salmon also play a critical
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ecological role as anandramous fish.
They migrate from the ocean to freshwater to spawn, bringing
marine nutrients that enrich streams, support aquatic life,
and even fertilize forests when predators drag carcasses ashore.
According to the NPS website, anatomous fish are fish that
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spend part of their life cycle in the ocean and then return to
freshwater to spawn. Fish such as salmon, trout, and
char evolved an anatomous life cycle as a way to maximize
growth and reproduction. Growth is maximized by feeding
in productive oceans rather thancomparatively nutrient porous
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streams. However, freshwater streams are
optimal for reproduction becauseeggs and juveniles have fewer
predators than in the ocean. There are 12 species of
anadremous fish found in GlacierBay. 5 species of Pacific salmon
frequent the fresh and salt waters, Chinook, coho, sockeye,
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chum and pink salmon. Several species of trout and
char also spend time in the park.
The coastal cutthroat trout, steelhead, also called coastal
rainbow trout, and Dolly Varden Char yulishan, a type of smelt,
are also found in the park waters.
I encourage you to learn more about each species.
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For information on descriptions,abundance, spawning timing in
freshwater, and distribution among park and preserve streams
for each of these anadromous species, visit the link that I
will include in the show notes. Glacier Bay, in part, was
established to study ecological succession after glacial
retreat. Doctor Sandy Milner's 35 year
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study on stream and fish colonization is the longest of
its kind. His work shows that new streams
can be colonized by species likeDolly Varden and pink salmon and
as little as a decade, highlighting nature's remarkable
resilience and adaptability. Glacier Bay is a protected
marine environment and boating is carefully regulated to
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minimize ecological disturbance.Private boaters must obtain a
free permit to enter the Bay during the summer season, June
through August. Speed restrictions and area
closures are enforced to protectwhales and other wildlife.
Fishing is permitted, but regulations differ depending on
whether 1 is in the park or preserve.
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Sport fishing is allowed with estate license, but subsistence
fishing is generally limited to Alaska Native residents.
Commercial fishing is phased outin most areas, although limited
operations continue under grandfathered permits.
Now a few animal highlights of the park.
Stellar sea lions, like all eared seals, can walk on land
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using their flippers and move with surprising agility in
water. They are graceful swimmers,
performing flips and rolls with ease.
Adult males can weigh up to 2000lbs, while females average about
600 lbs. During mating season, dominant
males compete for harems at rookeries along the outer coast,
while younger, non breeding males gather at haul outs like
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South Marble Island. Although the population is
growing, Alaska's stellar sea lion numbers have declined by
80% since the late 1970s, prompting their endangered
status. Harbor seals, which we discussed
in depth in our San Juan Island episode, are well adapted to
cold waters. Unlike sea lions, they lack
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external ear flaps and cannot lift themselves on land, instead
scooting on their bellies, called galloping.
While clumsy on ice, they are agile hunters in the water.
Each summer up to 1700, seals gather in Johns Hopkins Inlet to
pup and mate, though recent studies show a 75% population
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decline there over the past decade.
Trail Trivia What animal has thethickest fur on the planet?
Sea Otters In the past 20 years,Glacier Bay's sea Otter
population has surged from zero to nearly 9000.
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As voracious predators of shellfish like crabs and clams,
they have a major impact on the marine ecosystem, likely driving
significant changes underwater. Unlike other marine mammals, sea
otters lack blubber and rely on their dense fur, up to 1,000,000
hairs per square inch for insulation.
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Often seen floating on their backs, they eat, groom and rest
at the surface. Their dark brown fur gradually
lightens around the face as theyage.
Harbor porpoises, often mistakenfor dolphins, are Alaska's
smallest cetaceans, reaching about 5 feet in length and 120
lbs. Usually seen in small groups,
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they reveal their presence with a brief glimpse of their small
triangular dorsal fin as they surface.
Dark grey with a slightly pointed snout, they avoid bow
waves, unlike their larger cousin.
The dolls. Porpoise Dolls porpoises which
resemble miniature orcas in black and white, are more
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commonly spotted near the park'sentrance and in icy straight.
These endangered giants reach 40to 50 feet and weigh over 35
tons. Humpbacks are baleen whales.
All baleen whales have baleen instead of teeth, which they use
to collect shrimp like krill, plankton, and small fish from
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the sea. Baleen is made out of keratin,
the same protein that makes up human fingernails and hair.
These bristly baleen plates filter, sift, sieve or trap the
whales favorite prey from the seawater inside their mouths.
The humpback whales migration from Alaska to Hawaii and back
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is one of the longest known migrations of any mammal, and
remarkably, it involves months of fasting each year.
Most humpback whales that feed in Glacier Bay and other parts
of Alaska undertake a 5000 mile round trip to the warm, shallow
waters of Hawaii. This journey takes about a month
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each way and during the entire time they are in tropical
waters, usually from December toApril, they do not eat at all.
Tropical waters lack the dense schools of fish and krill that
are abundant in Alaska. Instead of feeding, humpbacks
spend their time mating, giving birth and nursing cabs.
(30:13):
Females in particular can lose up to a third of their body
weight as much as £27,000, especially if they're nursing a
calf which consumes large amounts of nutrient rich milk.
To sustain themselves, humpbacksbuild up thick fat reserves or
blubber during their feeding season in Alaska, which
(30:34):
typically runs from May to September.
We were there in July 2024 and took a whale watching excursion,
which is expensive but worth it because we saw so many whales
and learned so much during thesemonths.
In Alaskan waters, they consume up to 3000 lbs of small fish and
(30:54):
krill per day, gorging on species like herring, Kaplan,
and sand Lance. These fat reserves provide both
energy and insulation during themigration and tropical fasting
period. Seeing the humpback whales in
Glacier Bay was the absolute highlight from our trip in July
2024. I will be sure to post some
(31:16):
videos on Instagram. Fasting is an evolutionary trade
off. Warm tropical waters are safer
for birthing calves. They're free of ice and have
fewer predators, but they're biologically poor in food, so
humpbacks have prioritized reproduction over feeding until
they return N for the summer. Last marine animal highlight
(31:38):
before we discuss our time in this area and then leave you
with a Junior Ranger activity. Commonly known as orcas, most
people prefer the name killer whale for this striking species,
which is the largest member of the dolphin family.
They grow up to 26 feet long andcan weigh between 4:00 and 8:00
tons. 3 distinct ecotypes, similar to subspecies, may be
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seen in Glacier Bay. One resident killer whales,
these orcas stay near their homewaters and feed mainly on fish.
2 transients. They roam more widely in hunt
marine mammals and three offshore killer whales, which
stay in open ocean environments and are rarely seen in the Bay.
(32:24):
Orcas are apex predators with a diverse diet, but their main
food source varies depending on the specific population and
location. Generally, orcas eat fish,
marine mammals, and squid. Some populations specialize in
specific prey like seals, sea lions or whales.
(32:44):
Killer whales have been documented to prey on humpback
calves in Hawaii. Though adult humpbacks are
generally not haunted by orcas, orcas are not common in Hawaii.
This is one of the reasons why humpback whales migrate to
warmer waters like Hawaii to give birth.
In the case of an attack, adult humpback whales will defend
their calves, often using their powerful flippers and tails to
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keep orcas at Bay. Access and Activities Despite
its remoteness, Glacier Bay offers a variety of activities
for adventurous travellers and nature lovers.
Visitors can kayak through serene coves, hike forested
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trails, or take guided wildlife tours.
Bartlett Cove, the park's headquarters, offers the only
developed campground and a visitor center with interpretive
exhibits. Ranger LED programs provide
educational insights into the park's geology, ecology, and
cultural heritage. Backcountry camping, tidewater
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glacier viewing, bird watching and photography are popular
pursuits. Since 95% of visitors arrived by
cruise ship, it's unlikely you'll visit Bartlett Cove.
We haven't either. Still, cruising is a fascinating
way to experience Glacier Bay. One major advantage, especially
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for us traveling with a 7 month old last summer, was having all
meals provided on board. It allowed us to fully enjoy our
time and focus on soaking in thescenery from the water and when
docked, to enjoy hiking, exploring and excursions.
Without added logistics, there are many variables to consider
(34:31):
when booking a cruise. We combined this trip with our
visit to Washington State's national parks and San Juan
Island National Historical Park,which we shared about a couple
of weeks ago. We turned this into a road trip
which allowed us the mobility without having to rent any
vehicles, which can become quiteexpensive quickly.
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Most people who take an Alaskan cruise fly into Seattle, the
port we chose to depart from. We parked at Seattle Cruise
Park, which was $200 for the 9 days.
Remote work has been the key to making this kind of travel
possible. It's allowed us to explore so
many national parks and park units in a relatively short time
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and I'm incredibly grateful for that.
Me too. We took this trip with my
maternal grandmother, my mom, and the older of my 2 younger
sisters. While coordinating for a larger
group added some complexity, it made the experience even more
meaningful to share it with moreof our family.
Robin and I chose an inside stateroom, which is the cheapest
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option, and so did the rest of the family.
These are tiny and have no window, but we wanted to focus
our budget and time elsewhere, and this was simply where we
went to sleep. When planning, we focused on
finding A7 day Inside Passage cruise that included Glacier
Bay, but it's important to checkitineraries carefully.
(35:57):
Not all Alaskan cruises enter the National Park.
After some research, we opted for a nine day cruise which was
essentially the same price as the seven day.
If you can take the extra coupledays off of work, it's
absolutely worth it. This was a very special trip for
all of us, but it holds a special place for me because it
(36:18):
was my 50th state and my 50th National Park.
We planned this trip well in advance, though rooms were still
available just days before departure.
One major benefit of early planning was the ability to
research excursions. I highly recommend comparing
cruise line offerings with booking directly through local
(36:39):
companies. Independent bookings often cost
less and ensure more of your money supports the small
businesses which don't have to pay hefty commissions to the
cruise line. Taking all factors into account,
cruises offer competitive per night pricing for a major trip.
However, we are mindful of the environmental impact and do not
(37:01):
intend to cruise often. Congratulations on becoming part
of the 5050 Club. 50 states, 50 national parks.
Now a recap of the activities wechose and a few highlights from
our trip. The first port of call was
Sitka. I planned a loose itinerary at
each stop and we were not able to do everything we wanted in
(37:23):
Sitka. We stopped at the Wildflower
Cafe and Bakery, had a walk around downtown, bought salt at
the Alaska Pure Sea Salt Company, ate at Pelmeni, The
Russian dumplings were amazing, and Ludwig's chowder cart.
The highlight in Sitka was a walk along the Sitka National
Historical Park Trail, just a 15minute walk away from downtown.
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The almost entirely flat trail is gravel, paved and lined by
over 20 totem poles. The park has multiple loops
ranging from a 10 minute walk toan hour loop.
At the entrance to the park is aNational Park visitor center
with exhibits on traditional Klingit Life, a 12 minute film
which we watched and preserved original totem poles on the
(38:11):
path. We foraged for the abundant red
huckleberries that were perfectly ripe and they were
incredible. I asked the park Ranger and they
allow people to take 1 quart perday from the park.
In the late summer and early fall, visitors can view the
salmon spawning. We saw salmon spawning at almost
every port of call. Old Sitka Dock, which is Sitka
(38:34):
Sound Cruise Terminal, is located about 6 miles north of
downtown. A Freeport shuttle runs every 10
to 15 minutes between the dock and downtown Sitka, dropping off
and picking up at Harrigan Centennial Hall.
Although there are other options, this was the best
option for us and worked out perfectly.
(38:56):
Between our first and 2nd ports of call was a day at sea and the
designated time inside Glacier Bay National Park viewing the
glaciers up close, the various wildlife that chose to show
themselves, including many largegroups of sea otters.
Park Rangers board the cruise ships to provide interpretation,
storytelling and educational presentations.
(39:16):
Be sure to check out this presentation, I thoroughly
enjoyed it. Our second port of call was
Skagway. Skagway has a distinct and
charming Wild West feel. For our first activity in
Skagway, we took a lovely and easy 1.6 mile hike to Yakatanya
Point, which led us through a forest and along a rocky
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coastline. We spotted mushrooms and even
saw a small animal that remindedus of Timon from The Lion King.
After our hike, we walked downtown and visited the
National Park Service building on 2nd Ave. to pick up maps,
explore the museum, and watch the free park film about
Skagway's Gold Rush history. The highlight of our Skagway
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stop was the White Pass and Yukon Route Railway, a three
hour, 40 mile round trip scenic ride.
The vintage rail cars took us from Tidewater up to the White
Pass summit at 2865 feet. With narration and views of
Bridal Veil Falls, Inspiration Point, Dead Horse Gulch and the
historic Klondike Trail of 1898,this narrow gauge railway is
(40:23):
recognized internationally as a historic civil engineering
landmark. Juno was the next stop.
It included a whale watching andglacier tour, delicious lunch at
Deckhand, Dave's, fish tacos, walking around the downtown
area, and riding the tram. We booked the whale watching and
Mendenhall Glacier tour with whale watching adventures.
(40:46):
This was one of those times. I highly recommend booking
directly with the company ratherthan through the cruise.
Because we chose the early time slot, we were the only ones on
the boat, which made the experience even better.
The five hour tour began at 8:45AM and departed from the base of
Mount Roberts Tramway, which is easy to spot from the cruise
(41:08):
dock thanks to the bright red gondolas moving up and down the
mountain. The tour included hot and cold
beverages, a sweet treat, binoculars, and great commentary
from the captain and naturalist.We saw a ton of humpback whales.
It was a major highlight. The tour also included time at
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Mendenhall Glacier where we hiked to Nugget Falls, a
relatively easy two mile round trip walk on a mostly paved
trail. The waterfall is massive and
impressive. On the way back we took an
unpaved trail near the water where we crossed streams on
stepping stones and saw salmon swimming upstream.
(41:50):
An unforgettable moment. On the drive back to town, we
saw dozens of bald eagles in an area the shuttle driver told us
the locals call Eagle's Nest. In the afternoon, we rode the
Gold Belt tram, which took us 1800 feet above Juneau for
panoramic views of the city and surrounding wilderness.
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At the top, there's a short nature trail, a gift shop,
restaurant and a complimentary film.
Unfortunately, we had to wait inline for 30 minutes each way,
and the tram was very crowded. Because of the delays, we only
had time for a brief walk at thesummit.
Finally, we enjoyed a leisurely walk around Juno's historic
(42:32):
downtown, browsing shops and enjoying the charming
atmosphere. The 4th port of call was icy
straight point. This particular morning we were
incredibly lucky to see some spectacular displays of what is
called bubble net feeding. This is when a humpback whale
blows bubbles to create a net like barrier, trapping prey like
(42:53):
fish or krill, which they then gulp down as they swim through
the bubbles. I'll be sure to add some videos
of this to Instagram. Upon disembarking, we explored
the Nature Trail, a short half mile loop located right near the
Adventure Center in port. This trail winds through lush
forest and offers peaceful, pretty views, perfect for a
(43:14):
brief nature walk. Next we visited the cannery,
museum and shops. Housed in a large red warehouse
just a 7 minute walk from the ship.
It features local crafts, gifts and food items, a great place to
browse and pick up souvenirs. We also walked 1.5 miles along
the waterfront to reach the village of Huna, the largest
(43:37):
Klingit community in Alaska. Another option is a round trip
shuttle available for $5. While the walk was pleasant and
we spotted bald eagles and several totem poles, there
wasn't much to do in the villageitself beyond a few shops and
restaurants. A free gondola, known as the
Transporter, connects WildernessLanding to the Adventure Center.
(43:58):
The five minute ride offers lovely views of the surrounding
rainforest. We took it on the way back to
the ship and found it to be an enjoyable and scenic experience.
Ketchikan was our fifth stop. A free downtown shuttle runs
every 20 minutes when large cruise ships are in port,
servicing the downtown area, cruise ship berths and several
(44:20):
local attractions, including theTongass Historical Museum and
the Totem Heritage Center. The town of Ketchikan is about 3
miles long, with a compact downtown area that's only about
four blocks deep. We started our visit at Historic
Creek St. home to boutiques, museums, and artisan shops.
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The view of Ketchikan Creek was lovely, and we were amazed by
the sheer number of salmon attempting to swim upstream.
It was wild to watch. This was by far the most salmon
any of us have ever seen at one time.
At 10 Creek St. we stopped in the Sam Mcgee's, which features
a wonderful selection of locallysourced Alaskan goods including
(45:04):
soaps, bone handled knives, cookbooks and fossils.
Everything in the shop is made in Alaska and felt truly unique.
Another great stop was Crazy Wolf Studio and Artist Studio,
featuring locally made gifts andoriginal artwork.
We attempted to hike the Rain Bird Trail, a 2.1 mile out and
(45:24):
back trail with a 541 foot elevation gain.
To reach the trailhead, we had to walk quite a ways up an
extremely steep St. and cross a busy Rd.
Unfortunately, rain made the trail slippery and we turned
back early. While the trail offers some
views of the water, we didn't find it especially scenic and
(45:45):
wouldn't recommend it unless theweather is clear.
The final port of call was Victoria, BC, but we were only
allotted about four hours off the ship and docking wasn't
until evening to keep the sleep schedule.
I stayed on board to make sure the sleep routine with the baby
stayed intact. I chose a 2 hour bus and walking
(46:07):
excursion that began at the cruise terminal and followed the
scenic seawall past manicured gardens and homes with views of
the Strait of Juan de Fuca and the Olympic Mountains.
The tour continued into downtownVictoria, a vibrant area full of
shops, restaurants and landmarks.
The Inner Harbor was lively withSt. performers, food and craft
(46:31):
vendors, and key historic sites.The local guide shared
fascinating stories and insightsabout the city's history and
character. Even if you chose to stay on the
ship the entire time, the stunning views of the coastline
and surrounding islands would make the experience worthwhile.
We made it a priority to get outand hike and walk around at each
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stop. Even with a baby, this was an
incredible trip and would recommend this as a great option
to visit Glacier Bay. Final trail trivia for this
episode. How many islands are there in
Southeast Alaska 1100? These islands are the tops of a
(47:15):
submerged coastal mountain rangeforming the Alexander
Archipelago. The archipelago extends from
Glacier Bay and Cross Sound to the Dixon Entrance.
The views of distant islands andmountains, along with the
incredible wildlife, especially whales and other marine life,
made this corner of Southeast Alaska an unforgettable
(47:38):
experience, one that's difficultto access by land.
The cruise offered not only breathtaking scenery, but also
meaningful, high quality family time.
The Junior Ranger section of theNational Park Service website is
well worth exploring. It features interactive videos,
maps, and engaging content that complements the Junior Ranger
(48:01):
Handbook perfectly. For this Junior Ranger activity,
we're leaving you with a fun andrewarding challenge.
Visit the NPS website and find the Junior Ranger section.
Watch the videos, complete the answer sheet, and submit it to
earn your official Junior Rangerbadge.
Glacier Bay National Park and Preserve is more than just a
(48:23):
destination. It is a living, breathing
landscape that embodies the power of nature, the depth of
cultural heritage, and the importance of conservation.
From its dramatic geological history and resilient indigenous
cultures to its thriving ecosystems and stunning scenery,
(48:43):
Glacier Bay stands as a testament to the enduring beauty
and complexity of the natural world.
For those who venture into its icy embrace, the park offers a
journey into the past, a haven for wildlife, and a canvas for
unforgettable adventures. If you haven't visited Glacier
Bay yet, we hope this inspired you to add it to your bucket
(49:06):
list. If you enjoy this episode, make
sure to like, share, and follow us for more outdoor adventures.
And all you Junior Rangers out there, good luck on earning your
badge. And hey, if you've earned a
Junior Ranger badge recently, send us a picture.
We'd love to see it. And if you want, feel free to
share your latest story from your time in a National Park
unit. Who knows, maybe we will mention
(49:28):
it in one of our upcoming episodes.
Be sure to include in the e-mailthat you grant us permission to
Share your story. I will include our e-mail
address npjrpodcast@gmail.com inour show notes.
And feel free to follow us on our adventures on Instagram at
NPJR Podcast. Until next time, happy trails
(49:49):
and remember the Earth is ours to explore and protect, so let's
get out there and do it. Explore, learn and protect.
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