Episode Transcript
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Welcome to NPR, where we explorethe great outdoors one National
Park unit at a time. I'm Justin.
And I'm Robin. Today we are heading to the edge
of the sprawling metropolis of New York City to explore the
unique and diverse landscapes ofGateway National Recreation
Area. This is a National Park unit
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that neither of us have visited yet.
That doesn't change the fact that these episodes are by trail
lovers for trail lovers. Gateway National Recreation Area
is one of the most unique and ecologically diverse units in
the United States National Park System.
Spanning across parts of New York and New Jersey, this urban
National Park unit encompasses almost 27,000 acres of land and
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water, including beaches, wetlands, islands, and historic
landmarks. Gateway offers a rare blend of
natural beauty, rich history andaccessible outdoor recreation
within the densely populated metropolitan area of New York
City. Gateway National Recreation Area
was established on October 27th,1972 by an act of Congress,
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becoming one of the first National Park units designed to
bring nature and recreation intoan urban environment.
The park was created to protect natural habitats, preserve
historic sites, and provide recreational opportunity to
millions of nearby residents. Managed by the National Park
Service, Gateway includes 3 major units, Jamaica Bay and
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Staten Island in New York and Sandy Hook in New Jersey.
The park was formed through the consolidation of former military
lands, federal lands and naturalareas into a cohesive unit
balancing conservation with public access.
The Gateway National Recreation Area lies within the Coastal
Plain province of the eastern United States.
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Its geological history dates back millions of years to the
Late Cretaceous and early Cenozoic periods.
The region was shaped by glacialactivity during the last Ice
Age, particularly by the advanceand retreat of the Laurentide
Ice Sheet. This glaciation sculpted the
land left behind moraines and formed kettle ponds and outwash
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plains that define much of the landscape today.
The park includes barrier beaches, estuaries and salt
marshes that formed due to rising sea levels following the
retreat of glaciers approximately 10,000 years ago.
Jamaica Bay, one of the parks key features, is a prime example
of a tidal estuary shaped by both glacial and tidal forces.
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Sandy Hook, another prominent area, is a spit formed by
longshore drift depositing sediments carried by ocean
currents. A spit is an extended stretch of
beach material that sticks out to the sea and is joined to the
mainland at one end. Long before European settlers
arrived, the lands within Gateway were home to indigenous
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peoples, primarily the Lenape, also known as the Delaware.
The Lenape inhabited the region for thousands of years, thriving
in its diverse ecosystems. They established villages along
the coastlines and riverbanks, utilizing the abundant natural
resources for fishing, hunting and agriculture.
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The Lenape practice sustainable methods of land use, managing
forests through controlled burnsand harvesting shellfish and
other marine resources from estuarine environments like
Jamaica Bay. Archaeological evidence such as
shell middens and tool remnants have been discovered within the
park, offering insights into their way of life.
The arrival of European settlersdramatically altered this way of
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life through displacement, disease and land acquisition.
The first Europeans to explore and settle the area were the
Dutch in the early 17th century,followed by the English.
They established trading posts, farms and military
installations, taking advantage of the region's strategic
location and fertile land. New Amsterdam, later renamed New
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York City, rapidly grew as a hubof commerce and nearby lands
were developed for agriculture and defence.
Sandy Hook became an important site for navigation and military
purposes. In 1764, the Sandy Hook
Lighthouse was built, making it the oldest working lighthouse in
the US During the 19th and early20th centuries, the area was
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further developed for military use with the establishment of
Fort Hancock and other installations, remnants of which
remain visible today. Flora and Fauna Gateway is home
to a wide variety of plant and animal life thanks to its
diverse ecosystems ranging from salt marshes and dunes to
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Woodlands and open water. Common plant species include
beach plum, American holly, red Maple, bayberry, and various
grasses adapted to sandy soils. There are a multitude of fungi
present as well. Bird watchers flock to Gateway
for its avian diversity. The park lies along the Atlantic
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Flyway, making it a crucial stopover for migratory birds.
Over 325 bird species have been recorded, including Ospreys,
peregrine Falcons, snowy egrets and the federally threatened
piping plovers, which is a species that nests on park
beaches. Marine life in the park includes
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horseshoe crabs, various shellfish, and fish species such
as striped bass and bluefish. The estuaries serve as nurseries
for many marine organisms, supporting both biodiversity and
local fishing traditions. Common mammal sightings include
white tailed deer, raccoons, foxes, and muskrats.
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An amphibian to look for is the eastern Gray tree frog, which
breeds and fills the trees with their Hardy, resonating trill.
In the spring and summer. Many types of turtles and snakes
can be found throughout Gateway.Since reptiles are cold blooded,
they are more active in the spring and summer.
While New York State has three species of venomous snakes, the
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timber rattlesnake, the Masasagarattlesnake, and the copperhead,
and New Jersey has two of these venomous species of snakes,
venomous snakes are not as common in New York or New Jersey
as they are in other parts of the country.
However, they are still present and something to be aware of.
The NPS website does not specifically state whether there
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are any venomous snake species in the park.
The NPS website does, however, highlight a few turtle species
that can regularly be seen in the warm months.
Diamondback terrapins live in brackish water and can be found
throughout Gateway. The Eastern box turtle is the
most terrestrial species at Gateway.
It prefers woods and meadows. Painted turtles can be found in
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bodies of water throughout the park from April to September.
Snapping turtles are the largestturtles found in New York and
New Jersey, not counting sea turtles.
Muskrats Engineers of wetland ecosystems.
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Muskrats are semi aquatic rodents native to North America,
known for their adaptability, ecological importance, and
unique behavior. Despite their name, muskrats are
not true rats. They belong to a different
family and are more closely related to voles and lemmings.
These robust creatures are commonly found in wetlands,
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marshes, ponds and slow moving streams, where their presence
often indicates a healthy aquatic ecosystem.
Muskrats have dense, waterproof fur and a laterally flattened
tail that aids in swimming. Adults typically measure around
16 to 25 inches in length, including the tail, and weigh
between 1 1/2 and 4 lbs. Excellent swimmers, they can
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stay submerged for up to 15 minutes, using their webbed hind
feet and powerful tails to navigate through water with
ease. The NPS website says some
confuse this medium sized semi aquatic rodent with a Beaver.
However, if one can view this creature from behind, they will
notice a rather long, skinny scale covered tail more similar
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to a rat than a Beaver. The muskrat acquired its name
from the two scent glands it hasnear its tail, which give off a
musky odor for territory markingpurposes.
They are often seen feeding in the waters throughout all three
units of Gateway. One of the most notable features
of muskrats is their ability to construct elaborate lodges and
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Burrows in marshes. They build Dome shaped lodges
from vegetation like cat tails and reeds, which provides
shelter and protection from predators.
In more stable banks, they dig Burrows with underwater
entrances. These structures not only serve
as homes but also play a crucialrole in maintaining wetland
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dynamics by creating micro habitats for other species and
influencing water flow. Muskrats are primarily
herbivores, feeding on aquatic vegetation such as water lilies,
cat tails, sedges and duckweed. Occasionally, they will eat
small aquatic animals like mussels and frogs.
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Their feeding habits help manageplant overgrowth in wetlands,
contributing to ecosystem balance.
Reproductively, muskrats are prolific breeders in warmer
regions. They can produce multiple
litters per year, each consisting of 6 to 8 young.
Their high reproductive rate help sustain populations even in
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the face of predators in the area, including snakes, owls,
Hawks and snapping turtles. Though sometimes viewed as pests
due to their burrowing habits, which can damage levees and
irrigation systems, muskrats arevital to wetland ecology.
They increase plant diversity and provide food and shelter for
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other species. Conservation efforts often
recognize the importance of muskrats in promoting healthy
aquatic environments. Muskrats are more than just
common wetland inhabitants. They are essential players in
the ecosystems they occupy. Their unique behaviors,
ecological contributions, and adaptability make them a
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fascinating subject for study and a vital component of North
America's freshwater landscapes.Another highlight for wildlife
watchers in the park is a bird known for its beauty and unique
behavior. The American Oyster Catcher
Shoreline Sentinel of the Atlantic, The American Oyster
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Catcher is a striking and charismatic shore bird known for
its bold black and white plumage, long bright orange
bill, and loud whistling calls. Found along the Atlantic and
Gulf Coast of the Americas, thisspecies is a vital indicator of
coastal ecosystem health and plays a unique role in
maintaining balance in intertidal environments.
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Measuring about 17 to 21 inches in length with a wingspan of up
to 36 inches, the American oyster catcher is unmistakable
in appearance. It's blackhead contrasts sharply
with its white underparts and brownish back, the birds vivid
orange red Bill is specially adapted for prying open
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shellfish, particularly oysters,mussels and clams, hence its
name. Oyster catchers inhabit sandy or
rocky beaches, salt marshes, mudflats and shell islands.
They are most often found in areas with abundant bivalve
populations where they forage during low tide.
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Unlike many birds that swallow food whole, oyster catchers
exhibit specialized feeding behavior.
They use their strong chisel like bills to stab into a
bivalve shell or sever the adductor muscles holding it
shut, consuming the soft flesh inside.
Breeding season for the Americanoyster catcher begins in spring.
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They are monogamous and nest on the ground, creating shallow
scrapes and sand or shells. They typically lay two to four
eggs, which are well camouflaged.
Because the nests are on open beaches, they are vulnerable to
flooding, predation and human disturbance.
Both parents share incubation duties and fiercely defend their
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territory. While not currently endangered,
the American oyster catcher faces numerous threats.
Habitat loss due to coastal development.
Sea level rise in recreational beach use poses significant
risks to nesting success. Additionally, their dependence
on healthy shellfish populationsmakes them susceptible to
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declines in water quality and over harvesting of their prey.
Conservation efforts focus on protecting nesting areas,
managing predators, and monitoring populations through
initiatives like the American Oyster Catcher Working Group.
The American oyster catcher is more than a beautiful bird.
It is a Sentinel of the shoreline ecosystems.
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Its presence signals thriving intertidal habitats, and its
behavior provides scientists with insights into coastal
health. As urban expansion and climate
change continue to challenge coastal environments, protecting
species like the oyster catcher becomes ever more critical.
Funga We've recently discussed the inclusion of Funga alongside
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flora and fauna, recognizing fungi as a vital part of our
ecosystems. Since then, our focus has
remained mostly on plants and animals, but this National Park
unit offers a great opportunity to highlight some of the
fascinating fungi found in the area.
Robin and I often talk about foraging and the importance of
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doing so responsibly. When it comes to mushrooms,
however, we avoid foraging altogether.
The risk is simply too high. Many edible species have toxic
look alikes that are difficult to tell apart, even for
experienced foragers. If you choose to forage for
mushrooms, please be extremely cautious and never consume
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anything unless you are absolutely certain of its
identity. Forage at your own risk, and
only if you truly know what you're doing.
Mushrooms are mysterious organisms, ephemeral, often
appearing overnight and vanishing just as quickly.
They take many shapes, classic cap and stem forms, puff balls,
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cups and even starbursts. Some common fungi found in the
park Amanita mushrooms Toxic amanitas are among the most
recognizable mushrooms and the most dangerous.
The famous flyagaric, with its red or locally yellow orange cap
and white spots, is iconic in folklore and pop culture.
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It emerges from a cup and has concentric rings on its lower
stem, often hidden beneath leaf litter.
A similar toxic species, the poison champagne amanita, has a
creamy cap and lacks the rings. Both are potentially deadly if
consumed. False Chanterelle Toxic, bright
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orange and often found in pine needles, the false chanterelle
resembles the edible chanterellebut is not safe to eat.
Many foragers struggle to tell them apart.
Another reason to leave mushroomcollecting to the experts.
Variegated mop Mushroom These striking mushrooms appear in
fall, growing on stumps and roots with reddish purple caps
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and yellow gills and stems. They add a splash of color to
the forest floor. Fairy ring mushrooms.
These grow in charming circles in grassy areas, inspiring
legends of dancing fairies and buried gnome treasure.
They emerge in spring and fall and are one of nature's more
whimsical sites. Puff balls.
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Often mistaken for toys or stones, puff balls grow in
fields like those at Floyd Bennett Field.
They start round and white, eventually cracking open to
release a cloud of purple brown spores.
Hygroscopic Earth star. This unusual fungus resembles a
tiny Starship and thrives in dry, sandy areas.
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It opens in response to rain andfolds up in dry weather to
conserve moisture. A fascinating adaptation.
Fungi are a vital and fascinating part of the
ecosystem. They recycle nutrients, support
plant life, and add incredible diversity to the landscape.
Just remember, admire them, photograph them, learn from
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them. But unless you are a trained
mycologist, don't eat them. Fortifications and Defense
Gateway is a tapestry of many interconnected stories.
Discover the maritime legacy of Sandy Hook.
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Explore the evolving history of coastal fortifications, learn
about the Cold War era Nike missile installations, and
uncover countless other chaptersof military history on the NPS
website and navigate to the Stories tab under the Learn
About the Park drop down. A brief overview of what you
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will learn about in this section.
Many of the forts within Gatewaytrace their origins to the early
1800s. Several were part of the second
system of coastal fortificationsbuilt to defend New York City.
Fort Richmond, now known as Battery Weed, is a prime example
of a third system Fort constructed between 1817 and
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1867. The Endicott period, 1890 to
1910 brought major upgrades in response to evolving military
technology, with several forts at Sandy Hook and Fort Wadsworth
dating from this era. These Endicott era defenses were
later enhanced with newer weapons and systems to protect
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New York Harbor through World War 2.
During the Cold War, Fort Tildenand Sandy Hook played critical
roles as sites for Nike missile installations.
Beyond military history, the Sandy Hook Lighthouse, still in
operation, has guided ships for over 250 years, and at Floyd
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Bennett Field, visitors can explore a legacy of aviation,
including a remarkable list of historic and record-breaking
flights. Cornelius Titus, AKA Colonel
Tye, freedom fighter and fearsome leader.
The NPS website highlights many significant figures from the
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park's history, but one in particular stood out to me.
His biography appears under the striking title Renegade, runaway
slave, traitor, Guerrilla leader, Black Loyalist, African
American Freedom Fighter. This is the story of Cornelius
Titus, also known as Colonel Ty.What follows is a shortened and
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paraphrased version of the much more detailed account from the
MPs website. The story of Cornelius Titus is
1 of courage, defiance, and complex loyalties during the
American Revolution. Once enslaved, Ty rose to become
one of the most effective guerrilla leaders of the war.
Under his leadership, the Black Brigade, a force of escaped
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slaves, Native Americans and white indentured servants, waged
a calculated campaign of raids and resistance against Patriot
forces in New Jersey. Born into slavery around 1753
near Colts Neck in New Jersey, Cornelius Titus had no record of
his exact birth date. Like many enslaved African
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Americans of the time, he was owned by John Corleus, a Quaker
who, unlike many of his fellow Quakers, staunchly defended the
institution of slavery. While most Quakers in New Jersey
were beginning to view slavery as morally and religiously
unacceptable, often educating and emancipating enslaved people
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by age 21, Corleus resisted these trends.
Known as a harsh taskmaster, Corleus openly refused to free
his slaves and was expelled fromthe Quaker Society in 1778 for
his obstinance. Titus's life changed in November
1775 when Lord Dunmore, Royal Governor of Virginia, issued A
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proclamation offering freedom toany enslaved person who escaped
to British lines and fought for the crown.
Titus seized the opportunity andescaped the next day.
With little more than the clothes on his back.
He journeyed South and joined Lord Dunmore's Ethiopian
Regiment, an all black unit whose uniforms bore the words
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liberty to slaves. Though the Ethiopian regiment
initially achieved success, it suffered devastating losses at
the Battle of Great Bridge. Surrounded and ambushed, many
soldiers were killed and the survivors, including Titus, were
later sent to the British stronghold in New York.
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It was during this time that he adopted the name Ty, shedding
the name of enslavement. Ty's military prowess came into
sharp focus during the Battle ofMonmouth in 1778, where he
captured a Patriot militia captain.
His fearlessness, knowledge of the local terrain, and
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leadership ability quickly earned him the admiration of
British commanders, who gave himthe honorary title of Colonel.
Soon after, he was placed in command of a mixed unit known as
the Black Brigade. Operating out of the British
held Sandy Hook Peninsula, Colonel Thai and his brigade
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launched relentless raids throughout Monmouth County.
They targeted prominent Patriot land owners, especially those
who enslaved people, confiscating supplies, freeing
enslaved individuals, and sowingchaos among rebel ranks.
TIES Force employed guerrilla tactics learned from Native
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American comrades and use their intimate knowledge of the local
geography to strike quickly and disappear before the enemy could
mount a response. Throughout 1779 and 1780,
Colonel Ty LED dozens of successful missions.
His name became synonymous with fear among New Jersey patriots
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and newspapers of the day. It chronicled his daring
actions, often branding him and his men as diabolical.
Yet to Loyalists and many African Americans, Ty symbolized
resistance, courage and the hopefor liberty.
In September 1780, Ty led his most audacious mission, an
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attempt to capture Patriot leader Joshua Hoodie.
After setting fire to Hoodie's house, Ty and his men forced his
surrender. However, during the attack, Ty
was shot through the wrist by cannon fire.
The wound, though seemingly minor, became infected and he
died days later from tetanus. Colonel Ty was born and slaved,
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but died a respected military leader.
His story challenges traditionalnarratives of the American
Revolution by highlighting the complicated choices faced by
those seeking freedom. While many black Americans
fought for the patriots in hopesof liberty, others like Ty, saw
a clearer path to emancipation through the British cause.
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Ty's legacy endures as a powerful example of resistance
in the face of oppression. It is even speculated that had
Thai and his Black Brigade fought for the American side,
the war might have ended sooner.Regardless of which side he
chose, Thai's life underscores Afundamental truth.
Freedom has never been free for those oppressed by people in
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power. It has always been fought for
recreational activities and access.
Gateway offers a wide array of recreational opportunities year
round. Visitors can swim, sunbathe, and
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picnic on beaches such as Jacob Rees Park and Sandy Hook.
Hiking and biking trails wind through Woodlands and wetlands,
offering scenic views and wildlife observation.
The longest trail in the park isthe 10.9 mile Gateway National
Recreation Area loop near Highlands, NJ.
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While Gateway doesn't have a reported total mileage for its
trails, it does boast over 120 miles of shoreline, offering
plenty of opportunities for beachcombing and toes in the
sand exploration. Bird watching is particularly
popular in the Jamaica Bay Wildlife Refuge, one of the few
areas in the National Park system specifically managed for
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wildlife. Canoeing and kayaking are also
available in the park's waterways, providing a tranquil
way to explore the estuaries andobserve marine life up close.
Keep an eye out for harbor seals, often seen in the park.
Historic sites like Fort Tilden,Fort Hancock and the Sandy Hook
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Lighthouse offer insights into the area's military past and
architectural heritage. Rangers often lead guided tours,
educational programs and seasonal events to engage the
public with the parks natural and historical resources.
Gateway is easily accessible by car, public transportation and
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bicycle. In New York, the A subway line
connects to the Rockaway beaches, and buses serve various
parts of Jamaica Bay and Staten Island.
Ferries and shuttle services also operate during peak seasons
in New Jersey. Sandy Hook is accessible via
Route 36 and offers ample parking.
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The park is open year round, with visitor centers providing
maps, exhibits and information. Some areas require permits for
activities like camping, fishingor group events.
Accessibility improvements have made many areas inclusive for
visitors with disabilities. Gateway has a virtual Junior
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Ranger page, a Sandy Hook JuniorRanger booklet, and they just
debuted a Jamaica Bay Wildlife Refuge activity book.
There are plenty of ways to get involved in the Junior Ranger
program at Gateway, whether you are at home or physically
visiting the park. The Sandy Hook Junior Ranger
booklet has a word scramble activity highlighting the Piping
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Plover, a bird species native tothe park that is protected under
the Endangered Species Act. Since we cannot do a visual
activity like this in this format, we encourage you to seek
out this activity on your own. Many living things, including
humans, rely on the ocean for food.
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However, plastic, a material we use everyday, is harming ocean
life. Made mostly from petroleum,
plastic doesn't biodegrade and can remain in the environment
for centuries. Marine animals and birds often
mistake plastic for food. Small pieces of plastic resemble
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plankton, the tiny organisms many sea creatures eat.
Larger plastic items like bottlecaps, foam cups and bags have
been found in the stomachs of sea turtles, dolphins, sea lions
and birds causing serious harm. You can help reduce the amount
of plastic in the ocean. One easy way is to avoid single
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use plastic items altogether. The trash you pick up today
won't go into the ocean, and that helps sea turtles, whales,
fish, birds, and so many more animals.
And when the ocean is healthier,so are we.
For today's challenge, one, safely pick up trash you find
outdoors and either recycle or dispose of it properly. 2
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implement a recycling program atyour home or in your community.
Or three, do both before we go. In addition to this challenge,
for today's Junior Ranger activity, let's have a bonus
animal highlight and learn aboutthe endangered Piping Plover.
The Piping Plover is a small, sand colored shore bird known
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for its endearing appearance anddistinctive melodic call after
which it is named. Despite its modest size and
subtle coloring, the bird plays a vital role in coastal
ecosystems and has become a symbol of Wildlife Conservation
efforts along North America's shorelines.
Piping plovers can be found nesting along the Atlantic
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Coast, Great Lakes, and parts ofthe northern Great Plains.
They prefer wide, sandy beaches and open shorelines with sparse
vegetation, habitats that are increasingly threatened by human
development and recreational use.
Their pale coloring provides camouflage against the sand,
which helps protect them from predators but also makes them
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easy to overlook. Each spring and summer, piping
plovers return to their nesting grounds to breed.
They lay their eggs in shallow scrapes in the sand, often just
above the high tide line. Because their nests are so
exposed and well camouflaged, they are highly vulnerable to
disturbances from humans, pets and vehicles, as well as natural
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predators like foxes, gulls, andraccoons.
Even well meaning beachgoers canaccidentally crush nests or
cause parents to abandon their chicks.
In this and other ways, the piping plover share similarities
with the American oyster catcher, as both are shore birds
that rely on coastal habitats that are increasingly impacted
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by human activity. Due to significant declines in
population caused by habitat loss and human interference, the
piping plover was listed as threatened under the US
Endangered Species Act in 1986. Since then, conservationists,
volunteers, and agencies like the National Park Service and US
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Fish and Wildlife Service have worked tirelessly to protect
these birds. Measures include roping off
nesting areas, posting signs, enforcing seasonal beach
closures and monitoring populations.
Thanks to these efforts, the piping plover population has
shown encouraging signs of recovery in some regions.
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However, they remain vulnerable,and continued vigilance is
necessary to ensure their survival.
The presence of piping plovers on a beach is not only a
testament to the health of the environment, but also a reminder
of the delicate balance between recreation and conservation.
The piping plover is much more than a small bird on the sand.
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It represents A broader commitment to protecting
nature's quieter voices and maintaining wild places for
generations to come. Here is a short song the plover
sings. Gateway National Recreation Area
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stands as a testament to the value of preserving natural and
historical treasures within reach of urban populations.
Its geological formations tell the story of ancient Earth
processes, its ecosystems support an incredible diversity
of life, and its history reflects the complex narratives
of indigenous peoples, European settlers, and modern America.
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Whether you're a nature enthusiast, history buff, or
casual visitor, Gateway offers something for everyone.
A true gateway to discovery, reflection and recreation.
If you haven't visited Gateway National Recreation Area yet, we
hope this inspired you to add itto your bucket list.
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We added it to ours. If you enjoyed this episode,
make sure to like, share, and follow us for more outdoor
adventures. And to all you Junior Rangers
out there, good luck on earning your badge.
And hey, if you've earned a Junior Ranger badge recently,
send us a picture. We'd love to see it.
And if you want, feel free to share your latest story from
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your time in a National Park unit.
Who knows, maybe we will mentionit in one of our upcoming
episodes. Be sure to include in the e-mail
that you grant us permission to Share your story.
I will include our e-mail address npjrpodcast@gmail.com in
our show notes. And feel free to follow us on
our adventures on Instagram at NPJR Podcast.
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Until next time, happy trails and remember the Earth is ours
to explore and protect, so let'sget out there and do it.
Explore. Learn.
And protect.