July 3, 2024 • 18 mins
Join us as we discuss Fasil Ghebbi, a historic fortress from the 17th century. Located in Ethiopia, it’s unique architecture was one of many reasons it was established as a world heritage site in 1979. We will cover the history, travel tips and more.
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Episode Transcript
Available transcripts are automatically generated. Complete accuracy is not guaranteed.
Abigail (00:00):
I'm Abigail.
Keith (00:01):
And I'm Keith,
Abigail (00:02):
and you're listening to the Global Treasures Podcast.
We'll cover different WorldHeritage Sites each episode.
Keith (00:10):
These sites have been identified as having outstanding universal value
Abigail (00:14):
because they have cultural and or natural significance
that is so exceptional.
That it transcends nationalboundaries and is of importance
to present and future generations.
Keith (00:25):
There are 1, 199 sites in 168 different countries across the world,
with more being added every single year.
Abigail (00:33):
We'll spend each episode exploring the history, legends,
travel tips, and so much more.
Keith (00:38):
Welcome to Season 2, where we'll explore the 45
sites that UNESCO added in 1979.
Abigail (00:45):
If you would like to support the show, you can subscribe
to Apple Podcasts, Spotify, orwherever you get your podcasts.
In this episode, Keith and I will beintroducing you to Fasil Ghebbi located
in the Gondar region of Ethiopia.
Keith (01:00):
Situated 450 miles north of Addis Ababa, in Ethiopia's Amara region, lies
the awe inspiring Fasil Ghebbi, a 17thcentury fortress that once served as
the home of the country's emperors.
Perched 7, 000 feet above sea level,atop lush grasses and surrounded by
trees, this massive compound coversroughly 750, 000 square feet and is
(01:24):
enclosed within a 3, 000 foot long wall.
Founded by Emperor Fasilides andreferred to as the Camelot of Ethiopia,
Fasil Ghebbi functioned as the centerof government until about 1864.
The word Ghebbi, in Amharic, meanscompound or enclosure, and this
extraordinary complex contains 20palaces, royal buildings, ornately
(01:47):
decorated churches, monasteries, andunique public and private structures.
At its heart stands the iconiccastle of Emperor Fasilides,
thought to be the oldest structurejust inside the entrance gate.
Towering 105 feet tall, with hugebattlemented walls and towers,
it resembles a medieval Europeanfortress transported to Ethiopia.
(02:10):
The castle's main floor hosted formalreceptions and dining, with Star of
David reliefs adorning the walls.
One level up lies Fasilides' prayer room,offering 360 degree panoramic views,
while the domed egg shaped roof servedas a site for religious ceremonies and
leads to its nickname as the Egg Castle.
(02:31):
From the second floor bathroom,an unguarded watchtower overgrown
with vines provides breathtakingvistas of the ancient city.
The architectural influences atFasil Ghebbi are diverse, blending
Portuguese, Moorish, Aksumite, Hindu,Arab, and even Baroque elements
brought by the Jesuit missionaries.
Other remarkable structures includethe palace of Emperor Ayasi I to the
(02:55):
northeast, renowned for its saddle shapedvaulted ceilings and former adornments
of Venetian glassware, mirrors, Goldplated ivory and beautiful paintings.
Though damaged by earthquakes andBritish bombing, it was once considered
among Ethiopia's most majestic castles.
Abigail (03:12):
The House of Song Banquet Hall, built by Emperor Dawit III, hosted lavish
ceremonies, while the two story Palaceof Empress Mentawab now serves as a site
office and prime tourist destination.
Religious influences abound as well,from the Asame Qedus Mikael Church, built
(03:33):
by Dawit, to the Debre Berhan SelassieMonastery, famed for its stunning interior
murals depicting religious scenes.
Another standout structure is the QusquamChurch and Monastery, meaning, Light of
the Trinity, and forgive my pronunciation.
Built by Emperor Iyasu, thefirst, it remains an active house
(03:55):
of worship, renowned for itsbreathtaking interior murals.
On the North wall, a depiction of the HolyTrinity soars above the crucifixion scene.
The South Wall featuresan ornate rendering of St.
Mary while the western wall isadorned with images of major saints.
Most notably, a striking portrayal of St.
(04:16):
George clad in goldgarments atop a white horse.
Remarkably, Qusquam is the onlychurch in Gondar that escaped damage
from the Mahdist dervishes of Sudanwhen they attacked the city in 1888.
According to legend, as the soldiersadvanced on the church, they were
deterred by a swarm of bees, forcingtheir withdrawal and leaving this
(04:40):
magnificent sanctuary unscathed.
Keith (04:43):
The fortress is ringed by twelve fortified gates that all have
wonderful names and histories, whileother antiquities like the ruins of
Emperor Fasilides' bathing palace,pavilion along the Quaha River and the
old Adababay marketplace in the southoffer glimpses into the daily lives of
Gondar's royal inhabitants centuries ago.
Abigail (05:04):
Speaking of what life was like here centuries ago, I think it's
time that we delve a bit into thefascinating history of this site.
Let's start right beforethe founding of the city.
For centuries, Ethiopian rulers led anomadic lifestyle, moving their royal
camps frequently and living off the land.
However, a significant shiftoccurred during the reign of Emperor
(05:28):
Fasil, who ascended to the thronein 1632 with the name Alam Sagad.
Meaning, "to whom the world bows".
Breaking with tradition, Fasilsettled in Gondar and declared
it his permanent capital in 1636.
Keith (05:45):
Just a quick note here, we're saying Fasil, short for Fasilides,
and that's probably how we'll referto it for the rest of the episode.
Alright, so prior to Fasil's reign,his predecessor, Emperor Susenyos,
had allowed Catholic missionariesto operate in Ethiopia, leading to
a rise in the influence of the RomanCatholic Church and the Spanish.
(06:06):
Fasil, however, initiated a closeddoor policy expelling the Jesuits and
shutting his empire off from the restof the world for over two centuries.
He sought the aid of Muslim rulers fromcoastal states to prevent Europeans
from entering and strengtheningties with the Ethiopian Orthodox
Church, which had most likely beenweakened during the missionary period.
(06:27):
Fasil also restored relations withthe Patriarch of Alexandria and
built numerous churches, includingsome of the earliest 44 in Gondar
and the Cathedral Church of St.
Mary of Zion at Axum.
It was during this time that EmperorFasil ordered the construction of
the imposing castle that would becomethe centerpiece of Fasil Ghebbi.
(06:48):
Subsequent emperors followed suit,erecting their own structures within
the expanding imperial compound.
The buildings, crafted from brown basaltand adorned with wine colored tuff,
exuded a fortress like appearance,often embellished by intricate
paintings and beautifully illuminatedmanuscripts, the palace's grandeur
was not lost on foreign visitors.
(07:10):
In 1648, Yemeni ambassador Hassan ibnAhmad al Haymi he marveled at the castle,
describing it as, and I quote, "oneof the marvelous of buildings, worthy
of admiration, and the most beautifulof outstanding wonders", end quote.
He attributed the design to anIndian architect named Abd al Kerim.
(07:30):
However, the Royal Chroniclescredit an Ethiopian architect, Walda
Giyorgis, with the construction ofthe castles of Yohannes I and Ayasu I.
The manual labor was primarily suppliedby the Ethiopian Jewish Kayla clan,
who traditionally worked as masons,metalsmiths, and carpenters despite
these occupations being considered oflow repute by the general population.
(07:55):
So as the royal court developed froma camp into the fortified Fasil Ghebbi
compound, it remained the heart ofthe Ethiopian government until 1864.
An Armenian named Khoja Murad, who visitedin 1696, remarked the presence of at
least 80 royal children who ran aroundindiscriminately within the palace walls.
Abigail (08:16):
Even after the empire's decline in the late 18th century, Gondar
remained an important commercial andtransport hub for northwest Ethiopia.
However, the Italian occupation from1936 to 1941 saw Fasil Ghebbi repurposed
as the headquarters for the occupyingforces, with some parts of the complex
(08:38):
developed for use by officials.
Though many buildings did not survive thisperiod, Those that remained were renovated
by the Italians in the late 1930s andafter Ethiopia regained its independence.
Unfortunately, many of the buildingswere heavily damaged by a British
bombing campaign in the 1940s.
(08:59):
In the late 1950s, Thomas Pakenhamvisited Fasil Ghebbi and observed,
"dotted among the palaces arewhat remains of the pavilions
and kiosks of the imperial city".
Today, some monuments still servetheir original spiritual functions,
and the surrounding landscape holdsdeep significance for local peoples.
(09:21):
Recognized for its immense historicaland cultural value, Fasil Ghebbi was
inscribed as a UNESCO World HeritageSite in 1979, drawing tourists from
around the globe to witness thelegacy of Ethiopia's noble past.
Keith (09:37):
Now that we've delved into the history of Fasil Ghebbi, Let's explore
a couple of intriguing and lesser knownfacts that will make you feel like a
true insider when visiting the site.
So as you explore the grounds, you'llactually be struck by the meticulously
manicured gardens and its intricatewater channels that adorn the site,
adding to its overall atmosphere.
However, it's important to note thatwhen you see all of this, that following
(10:01):
the decline of the Ethiopian empire, thewhole compound was abandoned in the 18th
century and actually fell into disrepair.
It wasn't until the 20th centurythat restoration efforts breathed
new life into this historical gem.
Fasil Ghebbi also played apivotal role in the coronation
ceremonies of Ethiopian emperors.
It's within these walls that rulerstook the throne and solidified
(10:24):
their power, making it a siteof great political and cultural
significance for the country Ethiopia.
Now, I'm sure you're ready to appreciateFasil Ghebbi on a deeper level.
You're probably thinking, Hey, this mightbe an adventure you'd like to experience.
So to truly immerse yourselfin the wonders of this ancient
fortress, you gotta go visit it.
(10:44):
Abigail, this is your area of expertise.
Based on our previous episodes onEthiopia's UNESCO sites, sounds
like there's a lot more to considerwhen traveling than normal.
What advice have you got for us?
Abigail (10:57):
As always, if you're flying in from a different country or a
different part of Ethiopia, you'll wantto fly into Addis Ababa International
Airport, then take a short flightto Gondar Atsi Tewodros Airport.
From there, you'll want to renta car or get some sort of car
service to reach your destination.
So, trying to find out how to purchasetickets for this site is confusing because
(11:23):
there doesn't seem to be an officialwebsite, and I saw varying prices.
So, it appears you have to purchaseon site day of unless you book a tour.
Also, tickets are only sold in Amharic,which is the official language.
So, while English is the mostspoken foreign language widely
throughout the country, don't makethe assumption staff will be able
(11:46):
to speak it fluently or at all.
You may be able to get guidesat the entrance, and you
will be heavily approached.
They may try to swindle you or chargeexcessively, so please be careful.
And I mentioned a tour before.
You may want to considergetting a Gondar City Tour that
includes a visit to the site.
(12:07):
And this way, the guide willcoordinate getting tickets and
might even arrange transportation.
This site gets about 12, 000visitors annually, so you don't
need to expect you'll be fightingoff massive crowds either way.
Also, a tip regarding payment.
The Ethiopian birr is the currency, andcredit cards may not be widely accepted.
Keith (12:29):
All good information to know and very expected considering
our previous episodes in Ethiopia.
So, anything you would recommend seeing inthe area after your visit to Fasil Ghebbi?
I know that there are a number of UNESCOsites that we've already covered in Season
1 and earlier in this particular season.
Abigail (12:46):
Yes, actually, two other UNESCO sites that we've covered.
The first being, Season 1, Episode 10,
and that's Simeon National Park,which is only a two hour drive.
Also, again, if you're alreadyin Ethiopia, Rock Hewn Churches
in Lalibela are a six hour drive,asterisk, tough drive, to the southeast.
(13:09):
We covered these churchesin Season 1, Episode 9.
Since these sites are so difficult toget to, This may be a good opportunity
to visit, so if you want to learnmore, please go back and take a
listen to both of those episodes.
If you want to experience theTimkat Festival, you may want
to consider going in January.
(13:29):
This is a big religious event in Ethiopiathat draws thousands of pilgrims.
It celebrates the christeningof Jesus Christ, and it includes
food, songs, dancing, andsymbolic recreations of baptism.
This might be the one time you'llencounter large crowds, and during this
time, the compound comes alive withceremonies and spiritual significance.
(13:54):
In terms of where to stay, thereare a few lodges and hotels.
Also, one travel tip that may seemrandom, keep in mind that this site sits
at a high altitude, make sure you'redrinking plenty of water, and don't push
yourself if you live near sea level.
Your body may need time to adjust.
Keith (14:14):
So food, were there restaurant options available in the area?
Obviously not on the site, butkind of like surrounding areas.
Abigail (14:21):
It looks like the area has a couple of restaurants.
Ethiopia has a lot of very uniquefoods, but it's well known for the
spicy meat stews, robust, freshlyroasted coffee of the highest quality.
and Tej, which is a honey winethat is often served at holidays.
Keith (14:40):
Oh boy, that all sounds right up my alley.
Okay, now I'm hungry to hear moreabout the legends surrounding the
site that we haven't covered already.
What did you uncover?
Abigail (14:49):
Well, you helped me out with this, so thank you.
One of the most captivatingmysteries surrounding Fasil Ghebbi
is the reason behind its location.
According to legend, it wasprophesied that an Ethiopian
capital would be built in a placewhose name began with the letter G.
This prediction led to the emergence ofnumerous towns across Ethiopia bearing G
(15:12):
names, such as Gondar, Guzara, and Gogora,each vying to become the chosen capital.
Another fascinating tale suggeststhat this site was handpicked
by none other than God himself.
The story goes that the emperor,Fasil, while on a hunting expedition,
(15:33):
followed a buffalo to the very spotwhere the fortress now stands, as
if guided by divine intervention.
Keith (15:41):
That's interesting.
I can see a whole bunch of people comingup with names that start with G just to
try to get the emperor to settle there.
So let's wrap up this episode bycovering issues or maybe wins surrounding
the preservation of this site.
Abigail (15:54):
Of course.
So unfortunately, in the 1930s,The wrong materials were used when
attempting to restore and make repairs.
They used cement and reinforcedconcrete, which damaged the
authenticity of the original materials.
This was partially reversed in the 1970s.
(16:14):
With the original lime mortar being used.
During the occupation of theItalians, from 1936 to 1941, they
put plaster over many of the wallpaintings in order to turn the
buildings into administrative offices.
Remember, part of the purpose ofdesignating sites as World Heritage
Sites is that there's an expectation thatwithin the restoration and maintenance
(16:39):
plan and budget allocated, that theoriginal techniques and materials
be used, because that keeps up thephysical authenticity of the place.
Part of the issue with the lack ofstructure in the plan is that management
of the property is done on multiple levelsinstead of being done by a single entity.
Same goes with managing the budget,and when money is involved, we
(17:02):
know things get complicated.
So, day to day management isdone at the local level by the
Amhara National Regional State.
But, the monuments used for religiousservices fall under the jurisdiction
of the Ethiopian Orthodox Church.
So it sounds like they may need toimplement more clearly defined roles
and responsibilities so they canbetter communicate and work together
(17:25):
to keep this site up to snuff.
All of that said, I want to end on a highnote by pointing out that most of the
monuments on the site are in good shapedespite decay due to all that have shared
and natural elements like the weather.
Keith (17:40):
That's great to hear.
Fasil Ghebbi is truly a remarkable placeand I can't wait to visit and bundle it
with all of the UNESCO sites in Ethiopia.
Abigail (17:48):
Thank you for listening to the Global Treasures Podcast.
You can check us outon YouTube and TikTok.
Keith (17:54):
Thanks so much for joining us for another episode,
and a quick word about us:
Abigail and I truly believe what we'redoing here to spread the word of these
sites, and can't wait to share eachone of these with you every two weeks.
If you also think this is important,Please consider leaving us a five star
written review with a message saying why.
This helps others who may not evenknow about the UNESCO Program of
(18:16):
World Heritage Sites find this podcastand learn of these amazing places.
It also lets providers know that peoplefind value in what we're doing here.
So, thank you.
We really do know it takes time towrite these and we value each and
every one that you've already written.
We're so grateful to every one ofour listeners who spread the word.
So we can't wait to see you nexttime when we take you to some
(18:38):
of the amazing sites of Ghana.
I'm Abigail.
Keith (00:01):
And I'm Keith,
Abigail (00:02):
and you're listening to the Global Treasures Podcast.
We'll cover different WorldHeritage Sites each episode.
Keith (00:10):
These sites have been identified as having outstanding universal value
Abigail (00:14):
because they have cultural and or natural significance
that is so exceptional.
That it transcends nationalboundaries and is of importance
to present and future generations.
Keith (00:25):
There are 1, 199 sites in 168 different countries across the world,
with more being added every single year.
Abigail (00:33):
We'll spend each episode exploring the history, legends,
travel tips, and so much more.
Keith (00:38):
Welcome to Season 2, where we'll explore the 45
sites that UNESCO added in 1979.
Abigail (00:45):
If you would like to support the show, you can subscribe
to Apple Podcasts, Spotify, orwherever you get your podcasts.
In this episode, Keith and I will beintroducing you to Fasil Ghebbi located
in the Gondar region of Ethiopia.
Keith (01:00):
Situated 450 miles north of Addis Ababa, in Ethiopia's Amara region, lies
the awe inspiring Fasil Ghebbi, a 17thcentury fortress that once served as
the home of the country's emperors.
Perched 7, 000 feet above sea level,atop lush grasses and surrounded by
trees, this massive compound coversroughly 750, 000 square feet and is
(01:24):
enclosed within a 3, 000 foot long wall.
Founded by Emperor Fasilides andreferred to as the Camelot of Ethiopia,
Fasil Ghebbi functioned as the centerof government until about 1864.
The word Ghebbi, in Amharic, meanscompound or enclosure, and this
extraordinary complex contains 20palaces, royal buildings, ornately
(01:47):
decorated churches, monasteries, andunique public and private structures.
At its heart stands the iconiccastle of Emperor Fasilides,
thought to be the oldest structurejust inside the entrance gate.
Towering 105 feet tall, with hugebattlemented walls and towers,
it resembles a medieval Europeanfortress transported to Ethiopia.
(02:10):
The castle's main floor hosted formalreceptions and dining, with Star of
David reliefs adorning the walls.
One level up lies Fasilides' prayer room,offering 360 degree panoramic views,
while the domed egg shaped roof servedas a site for religious ceremonies and
leads to its nickname as the Egg Castle.
(02:31):
From the second floor bathroom,an unguarded watchtower overgrown
with vines provides breathtakingvistas of the ancient city.
The architectural influences atFasil Ghebbi are diverse, blending
Portuguese, Moorish, Aksumite, Hindu,Arab, and even Baroque elements
brought by the Jesuit missionaries.
Other remarkable structures includethe palace of Emperor Ayasi I to the
(02:55):
northeast, renowned for its saddle shapedvaulted ceilings and former adornments
of Venetian glassware, mirrors, Goldplated ivory and beautiful paintings.
Though damaged by earthquakes andBritish bombing, it was once considered
among Ethiopia's most majestic castles.
Abigail (03:12):
The House of Song Banquet Hall, built by Emperor Dawit III, hosted lavish
ceremonies, while the two story Palaceof Empress Mentawab now serves as a site
office and prime tourist destination.
Religious influences abound as well,from the Asame Qedus Mikael Church, built
(03:33):
by Dawit, to the Debre Berhan SelassieMonastery, famed for its stunning interior
murals depicting religious scenes.
Another standout structure is the QusquamChurch and Monastery, meaning, Light of
the Trinity, and forgive my pronunciation.
Built by Emperor Iyasu, thefirst, it remains an active house
(03:55):
of worship, renowned for itsbreathtaking interior murals.
On the North wall, a depiction of the HolyTrinity soars above the crucifixion scene.
The South Wall featuresan ornate rendering of St.
Mary while the western wall isadorned with images of major saints.
Most notably, a striking portrayal of St.
(04:16):
George clad in goldgarments atop a white horse.
Remarkably, Qusquam is the onlychurch in Gondar that escaped damage
from the Mahdist dervishes of Sudanwhen they attacked the city in 1888.
According to legend, as the soldiersadvanced on the church, they were
deterred by a swarm of bees, forcingtheir withdrawal and leaving this
(04:40):
magnificent sanctuary unscathed.
Keith (04:43):
The fortress is ringed by twelve fortified gates that all have
wonderful names and histories, whileother antiquities like the ruins of
Emperor Fasilides' bathing palace,pavilion along the Quaha River and the
old Adababay marketplace in the southoffer glimpses into the daily lives of
Gondar's royal inhabitants centuries ago.
Abigail (05:04):
Speaking of what life was like here centuries ago, I think it's
time that we delve a bit into thefascinating history of this site.
Let's start right beforethe founding of the city.
For centuries, Ethiopian rulers led anomadic lifestyle, moving their royal
camps frequently and living off the land.
However, a significant shiftoccurred during the reign of Emperor
(05:28):
Fasil, who ascended to the thronein 1632 with the name Alam Sagad.
Meaning, "to whom the world bows".
Breaking with tradition, Fasilsettled in Gondar and declared
it his permanent capital in 1636.
Keith (05:45):
Just a quick note here, we're saying Fasil, short for Fasilides,
and that's probably how we'll referto it for the rest of the episode.
Alright, so prior to Fasil's reign,his predecessor, Emperor Susenyos,
had allowed Catholic missionariesto operate in Ethiopia, leading to
a rise in the influence of the RomanCatholic Church and the Spanish.
(06:06):
Fasil, however, initiated a closeddoor policy expelling the Jesuits and
shutting his empire off from the restof the world for over two centuries.
He sought the aid of Muslim rulers fromcoastal states to prevent Europeans
from entering and strengtheningties with the Ethiopian Orthodox
Church, which had most likely beenweakened during the missionary period.
(06:27):
Fasil also restored relations withthe Patriarch of Alexandria and
built numerous churches, includingsome of the earliest 44 in Gondar
and the Cathedral Church of St.
Mary of Zion at Axum.
It was during this time that EmperorFasil ordered the construction of
the imposing castle that would becomethe centerpiece of Fasil Ghebbi.
(06:48):
Subsequent emperors followed suit,erecting their own structures within
the expanding imperial compound.
The buildings, crafted from brown basaltand adorned with wine colored tuff,
exuded a fortress like appearance,often embellished by intricate
paintings and beautifully illuminatedmanuscripts, the palace's grandeur
was not lost on foreign visitors.
(07:10):
In 1648, Yemeni ambassador Hassan ibnAhmad al Haymi he marveled at the castle,
describing it as, and I quote, "oneof the marvelous of buildings, worthy
of admiration, and the most beautifulof outstanding wonders", end quote.
He attributed the design to anIndian architect named Abd al Kerim.
(07:30):
However, the Royal Chroniclescredit an Ethiopian architect, Walda
Giyorgis, with the construction ofthe castles of Yohannes I and Ayasu I.
The manual labor was primarily suppliedby the Ethiopian Jewish Kayla clan,
who traditionally worked as masons,metalsmiths, and carpenters despite
these occupations being considered oflow repute by the general population.
(07:55):
So as the royal court developed froma camp into the fortified Fasil Ghebbi
compound, it remained the heart ofthe Ethiopian government until 1864.
An Armenian named Khoja Murad, who visitedin 1696, remarked the presence of at
least 80 royal children who ran aroundindiscriminately within the palace walls.
Abigail (08:16):
Even after the empire's decline in the late 18th century, Gondar
remained an important commercial andtransport hub for northwest Ethiopia.
However, the Italian occupation from1936 to 1941 saw Fasil Ghebbi repurposed
as the headquarters for the occupyingforces, with some parts of the complex
(08:38):
developed for use by officials.
Though many buildings did not survive thisperiod, Those that remained were renovated
by the Italians in the late 1930s andafter Ethiopia regained its independence.
Unfortunately, many of the buildingswere heavily damaged by a British
bombing campaign in the 1940s.
(08:59):
In the late 1950s, Thomas Pakenhamvisited Fasil Ghebbi and observed,
"dotted among the palaces arewhat remains of the pavilions
and kiosks of the imperial city".
Today, some monuments still servetheir original spiritual functions,
and the surrounding landscape holdsdeep significance for local peoples.
(09:21):
Recognized for its immense historicaland cultural value, Fasil Ghebbi was
inscribed as a UNESCO World HeritageSite in 1979, drawing tourists from
around the globe to witness thelegacy of Ethiopia's noble past.
Keith (09:37):
Now that we've delved into the history of Fasil Ghebbi, Let's explore
a couple of intriguing and lesser knownfacts that will make you feel like a
true insider when visiting the site.
So as you explore the grounds, you'llactually be struck by the meticulously
manicured gardens and its intricatewater channels that adorn the site,
adding to its overall atmosphere.
However, it's important to note thatwhen you see all of this, that following
(10:01):
the decline of the Ethiopian empire, thewhole compound was abandoned in the 18th
century and actually fell into disrepair.
It wasn't until the 20th centurythat restoration efforts breathed
new life into this historical gem.
Fasil Ghebbi also played apivotal role in the coronation
ceremonies of Ethiopian emperors.
It's within these walls that rulerstook the throne and solidified
(10:24):
their power, making it a siteof great political and cultural
significance for the country Ethiopia.
Now, I'm sure you're ready to appreciateFasil Ghebbi on a deeper level.
You're probably thinking, Hey, this mightbe an adventure you'd like to experience.
So to truly immerse yourselfin the wonders of this ancient
fortress, you gotta go visit it.
(10:44):
Abigail, this is your area of expertise.
Based on our previous episodes onEthiopia's UNESCO sites, sounds
like there's a lot more to considerwhen traveling than normal.
What advice have you got for us?
Abigail (10:57):
As always, if you're flying in from a different country or a
different part of Ethiopia, you'll wantto fly into Addis Ababa International
Airport, then take a short flightto Gondar Atsi Tewodros Airport.
From there, you'll want to renta car or get some sort of car
service to reach your destination.
So, trying to find out how to purchasetickets for this site is confusing because
(11:23):
there doesn't seem to be an officialwebsite, and I saw varying prices.
So, it appears you have to purchaseon site day of unless you book a tour.
Also, tickets are only sold in Amharic,which is the official language.
So, while English is the mostspoken foreign language widely
throughout the country, don't makethe assumption staff will be able
(11:46):
to speak it fluently or at all.
You may be able to get guidesat the entrance, and you
will be heavily approached.
They may try to swindle you or chargeexcessively, so please be careful.
And I mentioned a tour before.
You may want to considergetting a Gondar City Tour that
includes a visit to the site.
(12:07):
And this way, the guide willcoordinate getting tickets and
might even arrange transportation.
This site gets about 12, 000visitors annually, so you don't
need to expect you'll be fightingoff massive crowds either way.
Also, a tip regarding payment.
The Ethiopian birr is the currency, andcredit cards may not be widely accepted.
Keith (12:29):
All good information to know and very expected considering
our previous episodes in Ethiopia.
So, anything you would recommend seeing inthe area after your visit to Fasil Ghebbi?
I know that there are a number of UNESCOsites that we've already covered in Season
1 and earlier in this particular season.
Abigail (12:46):
Yes, actually, two other UNESCO sites that we've covered.
The first being, Season 1, Episode 10,
and that's Simeon National Park,which is only a two hour drive.
Also, again, if you're alreadyin Ethiopia, Rock Hewn Churches
in Lalibela are a six hour drive,asterisk, tough drive, to the southeast.
(13:09):
We covered these churchesin Season 1, Episode 9.
Since these sites are so difficult toget to, This may be a good opportunity
to visit, so if you want to learnmore, please go back and take a
listen to both of those episodes.
If you want to experience theTimkat Festival, you may want
to consider going in January.
(13:29):
This is a big religious event in Ethiopiathat draws thousands of pilgrims.
It celebrates the christeningof Jesus Christ, and it includes
food, songs, dancing, andsymbolic recreations of baptism.
This might be the one time you'llencounter large crowds, and during this
time, the compound comes alive withceremonies and spiritual significance.
(13:54):
In terms of where to stay, thereare a few lodges and hotels.
Also, one travel tip that may seemrandom, keep in mind that this site sits
at a high altitude, make sure you'redrinking plenty of water, and don't push
yourself if you live near sea level.
Your body may need time to adjust.
Keith (14:14):
So food, were there restaurant options available in the area?
Obviously not on the site, butkind of like surrounding areas.
Abigail (14:21):
It looks like the area has a couple of restaurants.
Ethiopia has a lot of very uniquefoods, but it's well known for the
spicy meat stews, robust, freshlyroasted coffee of the highest quality.
and Tej, which is a honey winethat is often served at holidays.
Keith (14:40):
Oh boy, that all sounds right up my alley.
Okay, now I'm hungry to hear moreabout the legends surrounding the
site that we haven't covered already.
What did you uncover?
Abigail (14:49):
Well, you helped me out with this, so thank you.
One of the most captivatingmysteries surrounding Fasil Ghebbi
is the reason behind its location.
According to legend, it wasprophesied that an Ethiopian
capital would be built in a placewhose name began with the letter G.
This prediction led to the emergence ofnumerous towns across Ethiopia bearing G
(15:12):
names, such as Gondar, Guzara, and Gogora,each vying to become the chosen capital.
Another fascinating tale suggeststhat this site was handpicked
by none other than God himself.
The story goes that the emperor,Fasil, while on a hunting expedition,
(15:33):
followed a buffalo to the very spotwhere the fortress now stands, as
if guided by divine intervention.
Keith (15:41):
That's interesting.
I can see a whole bunch of people comingup with names that start with G just to
try to get the emperor to settle there.
So let's wrap up this episode bycovering issues or maybe wins surrounding
the preservation of this site.
Abigail (15:54):
Of course.
So unfortunately, in the 1930s,The wrong materials were used when
attempting to restore and make repairs.
They used cement and reinforcedconcrete, which damaged the
authenticity of the original materials.
This was partially reversed in the 1970s.
(16:14):
With the original lime mortar being used.
During the occupation of theItalians, from 1936 to 1941, they
put plaster over many of the wallpaintings in order to turn the
buildings into administrative offices.
Remember, part of the purpose ofdesignating sites as World Heritage
Sites is that there's an expectation thatwithin the restoration and maintenance
(16:39):
plan and budget allocated, that theoriginal techniques and materials
be used, because that keeps up thephysical authenticity of the place.
Part of the issue with the lack ofstructure in the plan is that management
of the property is done on multiple levelsinstead of being done by a single entity.
Same goes with managing the budget,and when money is involved, we
(17:02):
know things get complicated.
So, day to day management isdone at the local level by the
Amhara National Regional State.
But, the monuments used for religiousservices fall under the jurisdiction
of the Ethiopian Orthodox Church.
So it sounds like they may need toimplement more clearly defined roles
and responsibilities so they canbetter communicate and work together
(17:25):
to keep this site up to snuff.
All of that said, I want to end on a highnote by pointing out that most of the
monuments on the site are in good shapedespite decay due to all that have shared
and natural elements like the weather.
Keith (17:40):
That's great to hear.
Fasil Ghebbi is truly a remarkable placeand I can't wait to visit and bundle it
with all of the UNESCO sites in Ethiopia.
Abigail (17:48):
Thank you for listening to the Global Treasures Podcast.
You can check us outon YouTube and TikTok.
Keith (17:54):
Thanks so much for joining us for another episode,
and a quick word about us:
Abigail and I truly believe what we'redoing here to spread the word of these
sites, and can't wait to share eachone of these with you every two weeks.
If you also think this is important,Please consider leaving us a five star
written review with a message saying why.
This helps others who may not evenknow about the UNESCO Program of
(18:16):
World Heritage Sites find this podcastand learn of these amazing places.
It also lets providers know that peoplefind value in what we're doing here.
So, thank you.
We really do know it takes time towrite these and we value each and
every one that you've already written.
We're so grateful to every one ofour listeners who spread the word.
So we can't wait to see you nexttime when we take you to some
(18:38):
of the amazing sites of Ghana.
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