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August 28, 2024 20 mins

Join Keith and Abigail on Global Treasures as we explore the Historical Complex of Split and the Palace of Diocletian in Croatia. This UNESCO World Heritage site seamlessly blends Roman ruins with medieval fortifications and Romanesque churches, offering a journey through 1,700 years of history. Discover the fascinating stories behind this coastal gem, get insider travel tips, and uncover the architectural wonders that make Split a must-visit destination.

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Episode Transcript

Available transcripts are automatically generated. Complete accuracy is not guaranteed.
Abigail (00:00):
Imagine a place that tells a story spanning centuries,

Keith (00:04):
where culture and nature intertwine to create something truly extraordinary.

Abigail (00:08):
That's the beauty of UNESCO World Heritage Sites.
I'm Abigail.

Keith (00:15):
And I'm Keith.

Abigail (00:15):
And this is Global Treasures.
The podcast that covers thehistory, travel tips, and legends
surrounding one of the 1, 223World Heritage Sites each episode.

Keith (00:28):
These places have been identified as having universal
cultural or natural significance

Abigail (00:32):
that is so exceptional that it transcends national
boundaries and is of importanceto present and future generations.

Keith (00:40):
Welcome to season two where we're going to explore the 45
sites that UNESCO added in 1979.

Abigail (00:49):
This week, we're traveling to the historical complex of Split
with the Palace of Diocletian,located in Croatia, which is a
country in the continent of Europe.

Keith (01:00):
Nestled on the Dalmatian coast of Croatia lies a true marvel of ancient
engineering and urban evolution, thehistorical complex of Split centered
around the Palace of Diocletian.
This isn't your typical crumbling ruin.
We're going to be talking about oneof the world's most complete remains
of a Roman palace, a UNESCO WorldHeritage Site that's been continuously

(01:21):
inhabited for over 1, 700 years.

Picture this (01:25):
a Roman emperor decides he's had enough of the political rat
race and wants to retire in style.
So what does he do?
He orders a massive fortress palace builtright on a peninsula, Near the great
Roman city of Salona But Diocletian'spalace is no ordinary retirement home.
This sprawling complex constructedbetween the late third and the early

(01:47):
fourth centuries AD was designedto be half imperial residence
and half military garrison.

Abigail (01:54):
Now, fast forward through the centuries and this palace has transformed
into the beating heart of a vibrant city.
It's like an architectural timemachine, where every era has left its
mark, you've got a medieval cathedralbuilt smack in the middle, reusing
materials from the ancient mausoleum.

(02:14):
Wander through the streets and you'llspot 12th and 13th century Romanesque
churches, medieval fortifications,and 15th century Gothic palaces.
Keep your eyes peeled forRenaissance portals of noblemen's
houses and Baroque facades.
It's a living, breathingtestament to Split's rich

(02:35):
tradition and glorious history.

But here's the kicker (02:38):
it's not just a tourist attraction.
Locals go about their dailylives amidst these ancient walls.
You might see someone hanging laundryfrom a window that once framed a
Roman emperor's view, or enjoyinga cappuccino in a cafe nestled in
what used to be imperial chambers.

(02:58):
It's this unique blend of past andpresent, of ancient grandeur and modern
life that makes split truly extraordinary.

Keith (03:06):
Now, let's talk architecture, because this place is an
absolute feast for history buffsand design enthusiasts alike.
The Palace of Diocletianisn't just big, it is massive.
We're looking at an irregular rectanglemeasuring about 215 meters by 180
meters about the length of large oiltanker or two American football fields.

(03:29):
Imagine a fortress with 16 towersprojecting from the western, northern,
and eastern facades facing the mainland.
It's like the ancient Roman versionof a high security compound.
The façade walls are a study in contrasts.
In the lower parts, they're massiveand simple, without any openings.
Classic fortress design.

(03:49):
But look up, and you'll see largearches facing the land, adding
a touch of imperial grandeur.
Interestingly, only the southernfaçade facing the sea was unfortified.
It seems like Diocletian wasn'ttoo worried about a naval
invasion in his retirement years.

Abigail (04:06):
Now, let's take a tour of the gates.
There are four main entrances,one on each side of the palace.
The North Gate wasoriginally the main entrance.
Today, if you look up as you pass through,you'll spot a 7th century church of St.
Martin perched right above it.
The East Gate faces towardsthe Roman town of Epetia.

(04:29):
In the 6th century, they decided toadd a small church dedicated to St.
Apolinar above this gate too.
The West Gate, or Porta Occidentalis,is the only one that's been in
continuous use right up until today.
Look closely, and you might spotwhere 5th century Christians engraved

(04:50):
a cross, replacing the image ofNike, the Roman goddess of victory.
And, fun fact, yes, that is where thesportswear brand Nike gets its name from.

Keith (05:00):
The Southgate, or Porta Meridionalis, is a bit smaller
and was originally the Seagate.
It led directly into the basementrooms of the Imperial Palace,
maybe where they unloaded suppliesfor the Emperor's kitchen.
Speaking of the Emperor'sdigs, his apartments formed
a block along the seafront.
While only partially preserved onthe upper floor, the ground floor

(05:22):
substructure gives us a perfectblueprint of what was above.
The apartments were a 40 meterdeep stretch along the entire south
facade, complete with things likea domed hall, Halls with apses,
which is actually a semicircularroom that sticks out of a building,
and even an octagonal dining room.
But the real architecturalgem lies beneath your feet.

(05:44):
The palace cellars are one of the bestpreserved ancient complexes in the world.
It's actually like stepping into atime capsule of Roman engineering.

Abigail (05:53):
At the heart of all of it is the peristyle, a monumental court that was the
access point to the imperial apartments,Diocletian's mausoleum, and three temples.
One of these temples, dedicated toJupiter, later became a baptistry.
Talk about a career change.
So, the palace was also originallydecorated with the 3, 500 year

(06:17):
old granite sphinxes from Egypt.
Only three have survived, but you canstill spot them around the complex.
It's like a little piece of ancientEgypt on the Adriatic coast.

Keith (06:28):
Alright, now let's zoom out and take a look at where all this
architectural wonder is situated.
So, the palace of Diocletianwas built on a peninsula about
6 km southwest of Solona.
Solona wasn't just any old town, it wasactually the former capital of Dalmatia
and one of the largest cities of thelate Roman Empire, boasting a large

(06:49):
population of 60, 000 at the time.
It was also Diocletian's birthplace,so you could say he was kind
of retiring close to his roots.
The land around Salona gently slopestowards the sea, creating a picturesque
setting for this monumental complex.
But there's actually more to thislandscape than meets the eye.
We're dealing with whatgeologists call karst topography.

(07:12):
This land formed from the dissolvingof carbonate rocks, leading to
some interesting undergroundfeatures like sinkholes and caves.

Abigail (07:19):
Now that we've explored the stunning architecture of Diocletian's
palace, let's dive into the rich tapestryof history that has unfolded within
these ancient walls, from its imperialorigins to its evolution as a living city.
The story of Split is acaptivating journey through time.

Keith (07:39):
Our tale begins in the 4th century Common Era, when Roman Emperor
Diocletian decided it was time to hang uphis imperial robes and retire in style.
In 295 A.
D.
he began construction on a magnificentpalace near Salona, his birthplace and
the capital of the Roman province ofDalmatia, completed just after 305 A.

(08:00):
D., meant to be just in time forDiocletian's retirement, the palace
was a marvel of Roman engineering.
But here's where it gets interesting:
the palace wasn't quite finished whenhe moved in, so imagine the emperor
wandering through half completedhalls, perhaps dodging the occasional
worker, still putting finishingtouches on his dream retirement home.

Abigail (08:21):
Diocletian's retirement wasn't all peaceful gardening though,
which was his favorite pastime.
In 308 AD, he was called back toCarnuntum to help resolve conflicts
arising from Constantine's rise to power.
His response?
He's basically quoted as saying,"If you could see the cabbages I've

(08:42):
planted with my own hands, you wouldn'tdare ask me to replace my peace and
happiness with the storms of politics."
Sadly, Diocletian's final yearswere marked by the collapse of
his carefully crafted tetrarchysystem and personal tragedies.
He passed away in 312 AD,but his palace lived on.

Keith (09:04):
Fast forward to the year 639, and we see a pivotal
moment in the palace's history.
Selona was sacked by the Avars andSlavs, sending refugees fleeing to
the safety of Diocletian's palace.
This marks the beginning of Splitas a living city, with people making
their homes within the palace walls.
Through the centuries, Split became aprize fought over by various powers.

(09:28):
It passed through the hands ofCroatian kings, the Byzantine
Empire, Venice, and even Hungary.
Each ruler left their mark,contributing to the rich
architectural tapestry we see today.

Abigail (09:40):
One of the most fascinating transformations occurred in Diocletian's
Mausoleum, which I referenced before.
In a twist of historical irony, thispagan emperor's final resting place
was converted into the Cathedral of St.
Domnius in the 7th century.
The Venetians had a particularlylong lasting impact on Split, ruling

(10:03):
for 377 years, from 1420 to 1797.
During this period, we see theconstruction of the famous Loggia in
1432 and the Hrvoje tower in 1481.

Keith (10:18):
In the 18th century, the palace caught the eye of the famous
Scottish architect Robert Adam.
His careful studies of the palaceon a research trip reintroduced this
architectural wonder to Europe andinspired a whole new wave of neoclassical
design led by this very architect.
The 19th and 20th centuriesbrought further changes.

(10:39):
Split became part of the AustrianEmpire, then briefly fell under French
rule during Napoleon's conquests beforethen returning to Austrian control.
The city saw the birth of importantcultural institutions like the Split
Archaeological Museum in 1820 andthe Gallery of Fine Arts in 1931.

Abigail (10:57):
World War II brought turmoil, with the city changing
hands multiple times beforefinally being liberated in 1944.
In the post war years, Split flourishedas part of Yugoslavia, seeing the
establishment of its universityin 1974 and hosting the European
Athletics Championships in 1990.

(11:20):
In 1979, UNESCO recognized thehistorical significance of Diocletian's
Palace and the Old Town of Split,listing it as a world heritage site.
This status helped to preserve thisliving monument for future generations.

Keith (11:34):
Today, Split continues to evolve, balancing modern development
with historical preservation.
In 2006, there was a controversyover plans for new construction
within the palace walls, but publicopposition halted these plans,
demonstrating the city's commitment toprotecting its extraordinary heritage.

Abigail (11:54):
Yes, and the municipality of Split is the entity tasked with the
upkeep of Split's historic city center.
It's historically been underfunded.
So you can't blame them for wantingto continue construction, especially
if it might bring in tourism.
And if we're talking aboutpreservation, I am impressed that

(12:15):
they're actively trying to clean upthe buildings, such as the removal of
graffiti and washing of the facade.
The idea of people defacingsuch beautiful, important
places is just really upsetting.
Show some respect.
They also have disallowed billboardson historic buildings, since obviously
that takes away from some of theauthenticity and just is an eyesore.

Keith (12:40):
Yeah, I often see graffiti in some heartbreaking places when I
travel, so this is pretty tough to hear.
I do want to say though, I have seensome beautiful graffiti as well.
But I think it should be donein places that are meant for it,
not the walls of ancient palaces.
So, from the Roman Emperor'sretreat to the UNESCO World Heritage
Site, Diocletian's Palace and theOld Town of Split have witnessed

(13:02):
nearly two millennia of history.
But this isn't just a place toadmire from afar, it's a living,
breathing part of modern split.
So let's talk about what it's liketo visit this extraordinary site
today and what you can expect tosee and experience when you step
into this time traveling adventure.
Abigail will take thelead on this as usual.

Abigail (13:23):
All right, here we go.
If you plan on visiting from anothercountry, you'll want to fly into
Split Airport in Kastela, which is12 or so miles outside the city.
Once you arrive, you can takea taxi or a rideshare service.
In terms of accessing the site itself,there are no tickets to purchase,

(13:43):
it's open to anyone, so you can strollthrough the shops, restaurants, etc.
without needing to purchase any passes.
There are museums inside the palacethat do require tickets, though,
as well as Split's Cathedral, andthose are not necessarily free.
And you'll have plenty, and whenI say plenty, I mean hundreds of

(14:04):
lodging options, including hotels,bed and breakfasts, hostels,
cottages, campsites, and more.

Keith (14:13):
So you usually research the weather, and I'm guessing since
Diocletian wanted to build his palacehere, it's probably pretty good weather.
So what's it like?
I'm assuming it's going to have somehot summers that are Somewhat mitigated
by the ocean, but maybe cold winters?

Abigail (14:26):
Yeah, the weather in this area tends to have hot, somewhat dry summers.
So think temperatures between 80 to 90degrees Fahrenheit and mild winters.
So, it might be in the 40s lowest.
The majority of theprecipitation is September to
December, and it rarely snows.

Keith (14:47):
All right, so this might be an obvious answer, but did you find out what
the primary language spoken in Croatia is?
I mean, it must be Croatian,but just curious if visitors
can expect any other languages.
I've noticed in my travelsthat many people speak some
English in the tourist areas.
Is it the same here?

Abigail (15:03):
So Croatian it is, but English is spoken in somewhat touristy areas.
This is the second largest cityafter Zagreb, and it gets almost a
million visitors annually, so it'sa major tourist hub for the country.
So I also want to talk about somethings you might want to check out
while you're in the area as well.

(15:23):
In addition to walking tours ofDiocletian's Palace and Old Town,
which are very popular and relativelyinexpensive, you can go visit Split
Archaeological Museum, which hasartifacts spanning prehistoric
times to early Middle Ages.
You can also visit the Science Museumand Zoo, or Gallery of Fine Arts.

(15:45):
The Split Music Festivalis also held every July.

And I found this a bit funny (15:49):
if you're into sports, Spaladium Arena has hosted
the Men's Handball Championships.

Keith (15:56):
Oh, that's kind of, cool.
All right.
So, you know, I'm going to ask.
I want to ask about the food.
If they have hundreds ofhotels, I'm guessing they
have hundreds of restaurants.
I actually have no clueabout the cuisine in Croatia.
I'm assuming seafoodand maybe some spices.

Abigail (16:10):
It's clear that the coastal area deeply reflects
Italian and Mediterranean cuisine.
So some standout dishes I wouldsuggest trying includes Soparnak,
which is a savory pie with veggieslike Swiss chard and onions, usually
mixed with parsley and lots of oil.

(16:31):
It's a thinner crust than a calzone andit's so ingrained in Croatian culture.
That it was declared to be partof intangible cultural heritage by
the Croatian Ministry of Cultures.
Another dish is Buzara, which isshellfish cooked in oil, white
wine, parsley, and tons of garlic.

(16:52):
So, bring your mouthwash.

Keith (16:54):
Well, that all sounds great to me.
Actually, especially the Soparnik.
Anything else you want to mentionbefore we end today's episode?

Abigail (17:01):
Yeah, just something I want you to keep in mind when visiting,
whether you're taking a guidedtour or just strolling on your own.
Much of the information that surroundsDiocletian is likely the stuff of legends.
One example are stories told inthe Talmud, which includes numerous
accounts of his early life that couldbe false or just partially true.

(17:25):
And for reference, the Talmud is themain text used by Rabbinic Jewish
followers and is considered to be theorigin of Jewish philosophy and law.
So, the Talmud apparently statedthat Diocletian was a swineherd
in his early years, and he wasmade fun of by his Jewish peers.
When he became emperor, he calledup the leaders of the Jews, who were

(17:50):
terrified, and told him, We haveteased Diocletian the swineherd, but
we respect Diocletian the emperor.
Diocletian stoically replied,"You must show respect even to
the smallest and lowest of Romans.
Because you never know which oneof us will rise to greatness."

(18:10):
Whether or not he actually showed empathyand forgiveness given his history,
we'll never know.
And the reason I bring this up is becauseI think legends lend to the intrigue and
mystery that makes this site and all ofthe sites so special and worth visiting.
Legends shape human'sbeliefs, and our very culture.

(18:31):
That being said, I can't waitto go to split in the future.
Thank you for listening tothe global treasures podcast.
If you would like to supportthe show, please subscribe to
Apple podcasts, Spotify, orwherever you get your podcasts.
You can also check us outon YouTube and tick tock.

Keith (18:51):
As we conclude our journey to Diocletian's palace and the complex
of split, we'd like to express ourgratitude for joining us on this episode.
Abigail and I are passionate aboutbringing these UNESCO World Heritage
Sites to life, and we hope ourwork has sparked your curiosity
and appreciation for these marvels.

Abigail (19:08):
We kindly invite you to leave us a five star written review.
Your words not only help othersdiscover the wonders of the UNESCO
World Heritage Sites, but also inspiresus to continue our mission of sharing
these remarkable places with the world.
Each review, no matter how brief,is a cherished testament to the
importance of preserving andcelebrating our shared human heritage.

(19:32):
We're immensely grateful for all ofour listeners who helped spread the
word about these incredible sites.

Keith (19:37):
Prepare yourselves for our next thrilling journey as we cross back over
the Atlantic to the heart of Americanhistory in Philadelphia, Pennsylvania.
We're going to be exploring IndependenceHall, the birthplace of both the
Declaration of Independence, andthe United States Constitution.
This iconic building stands as apowerful symbol of liberty and democracy,

(19:57):
it's brick facade bearing witnessto the birth of an entire nation.
We'll delve into the rich tapestry ofevents that have unfolded within these
hallowed walls and the visionaries whohelped shape the course of history.
Until then, keep your love for heritagealive and your curiosity piqued.
The story of human achievementand aspiration awaits us.
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