November 20, 2024 • 26 mins
Journey with Global Treasures to Meidan Emam, one of the world's largest public squares, located in Isfahan, Iran. Built in the early 17th century, this "Image of the World" showcases the pinnacle of Islamic architecture through its four magnificent monuments: the Sheikh Lotfollah Mosque, the commanding Royal Mosque, the six-story Ali Qapu Palace, and the grand portal to Isfahan's ancient bazaar. Discover how this remarkable UNESCO World Heritage site served as the beating heart of the Safavid Empire, where history still lives and breathes.
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Episode Transcript
Available transcripts are automatically generated. Complete accuracy is not guaranteed.
Abigail (00:00):
Imagine a place that tells a story spanning centuries, where
culture and nature intertwine tocreate something truly extraordinary.
That's the beauty of UNESCOWorld Heritage Sites.
I'm Abigail, and this is Global Treasures.
The podcast that covers thehistory, travel tips, and legends
(00:20):
surrounding one of the 1, 223World Heritage Sites each episode.
These places have been identifiedas having universal cultural or
natural significance that is soexceptional that it transcends national
boundaries and is of importanceto present and future generations.
Welcome to Season 2, where we'll continue.
(00:40):
Explore the 45 sites thatUNESCO added in 1979.
Together
today, we're traveling to the heart ofIran to discover a place so magnificent
that it earned the nickname imageof the World Naqsh-e Jahan Square.
Picture yourself standing atthe edge of one of the world's
(01:03):
most magnificent public squares.
The morning sun catches the intricate bluetiles of towering minarets, while the buzz
of shopkeepers setting up their stallsechoes through the ancient archways.
The air carries the mingled scentsof saffron and rosewater from nearby
bazaars, and everywhere you look,architectural masterpieces stretch
(01:27):
towards the crystal clear Iranian sky.
Welcome to Meidan Emam, the stunningjewel of Isfahan's crown and one of
humanity's greatest public spaces.
When we talk about public squares, weoften think of intimate European plazas
or modest town commons, but MeidanEmam defies such modest comparisons.
(01:53):
This vast urban space stretchesan astounding 560 meters in
length, And 160 meters in width.
That's about 22 acres ofarchitectural splendor.
To put that in perspective, imaginenine football fields arranged in a
rectangle, all surrounded by some of themost beautiful buildings ever created.
(02:17):
But what makes this space trulyremarkable isn't just its size, it's the
harmonious way everything works together.
Built at the beginning of the 17thcentury, under the visionary Shah Abbas I,
the Great, The square represents somethingunusual in Iranian urban planning.
While most Persian cities featuretightly packed streets and buildings,
(02:41):
Shah Abbas and his brilliant architect,Sheikh Bahayee, dared to dream bigger.
They created an open space thatwould become the beating heart
of the Safavid empire's capital.
Picture yourself walking along the twostoried arcades that frame the square.
Hundreds of shops line these corridors,their windows displaying everything
(03:03):
from hand woven Persian carpets,to intricate miniature paintings.
But it's what stands at the fourcardinal points of the square
that truly takes your breath away.
To the east rises the Mosque of SheikhLotfollah, a masterpiece of Safavid
architecture that served as theprivate mosque for the royal court.
(03:26):
Its dome, adorned with intricate tilework that changes color throughout the
day, seems to dance in the sunlight.
On the western side stands themagnificent Ali Qapu Pavilion, a
six story palace that served as themonumental entrance to the royal gardens.
Its elevated terrace offered theShah a perfect view of everything
(03:49):
happening in his grand square, frompolo matches to military parades.
The northern edge is crownedby the portico of Qaysariyyeh,
The grand entrance to Isfahan'sfamous two kilometer long bazaar.
Above it, a balcony once heldmusicians who filled the square with
(04:10):
melody during public celebrations.
And finally, to the south, commandingattention with its massive dome and
soaring minarets, stands the Royal Mosque.
It's carefully angled to face Mecca,creating an interesting architectural
feat that somehow manages to maintainthe square's perfect symmetry.
(04:33):
What makes Meidan Emam trulyspecial is how it served as more
than just a beautiful space.
It was the beating heart of Safavid life.
This wasn't just a pretty plaza.
It was where life happened.
Public celebrations, military parades,and even polo matches took place here.
(04:53):
You heard that right.
Polo.
Long before it became known as the sportof kings in the West, Persian nobility
were playing it right here in the square.
The entire complex stands as a testamentto the sophistication of Safavid
culture during Iran's Golden Age.
Every surface tells a story, fromthe endless arcades adorned with
(05:16):
vibrant enamel tiles, to the intricatepaintings that decorate the pavilions.
It's a place where architecture,urban planning, and artistic beauty
come together in a perfect harmony tocreate something truly extraordinary.
If Meidan Emam is a crown, Then the RoyalMosque is undoubtedly its central jewel.
(05:38):
When Shah Abbas commissioned thismagnificent structure, he wasn't
just building another mosque.
He was making a bold statementabout his reign and the
power of the Safavid dynasty.
The Friday Prayers?
The most important gathering of theIslamic week had been held at the city's
ancient Jameh Mosque for centuries.
(06:01):
Moving them to this new locationwas nothing short of revolutionary.
But if you're going to replace tradition,you'd better do it with grandeur.
And that's exactly what the Shahand his master architect did.
They didn't just build a mosque, theycreated an entire religious complex.
Picture this (06:20):
a grand mosque crowned with the largest dome in the city,
flanked by a religious school on oneside and a winter mosque on the other.
It was designed not just toimpress, but to serve the
community through every season.
Let's take a step back in time, to thesquare's construction, because there's
(06:41):
something fascinating about the orderin which these buildings were created.
While the royal mosque might be thegrandest structure, It wasn't the
first to rise from the desert soil.
That honor belongs to the more intimatebut equally magnificent Lotfollah Mosque,
sitting opposite the Royal Palace.
The mosque tells us something interestingabout life in Safavid Isfahan.
(07:06):
Unlike its grand cousin across the square,this wasn't meant for the general public.
This was the RoyalCourt's private sanctuary.
A place where the Shah's familyand closest associates could
worship away from the public eye.
Its more modest size beliesthe incredible artistry within.
(07:26):
Some say the tile work here is even moreexquisite than in the royal mosque itself.
Now, let me tell you about one ofthe most intriguing buildings on
the square, the Ali Qapu Palace.
The name itself is afascinating blend of cultures.
Ali, Arabic for exalted, andQapu, a Turkic word meaning
(07:49):
portal or royal threshold.
Together, they create the ExaltedPort, a fitting name for what served
as the grand entrance to the vastroyal quarters of the Safavid Isfahan.
But calling Ali Qapu just anentrance is like calling the
Pacific Ocean just a body of water.
(08:10):
This six story pavilion was the placewhere the business of empire happened.
Climb with me to the sixth floor, wherethe grandest rooms in the palace await.
Here, in vast halls decoratedwith intricate stucco
designs of vessels and copse.
The Shah would host royalreceptions and lavish banquets.
(08:31):
These rooms are so remarkable thatmost people today call the top floor
the music room, though imagine tryingto hear the music over the sounds
of all those royal festivities.
And the entertainment wasn'tlimited to indoor banquets.
The Ali Qapu Upper Galleries offered theperfect vantage point for the Shah and
(08:52):
his guests to watch the spectacles below.
Imagine standing there watchingpolo matches played out across
the massive square or witnessingelaborate horse maneuvers and races.
It was the royal box seat forthe greatest show in Persia.
But no discussion of Meidan Emam'sarchitecture would be complete
(09:12):
without mentioning the Grand Bazaarthat extends from its northern edge.
Through the magnificent portal ofQaysariyyeh stretches one of the Middle
East's oldest and largest marketplaces.
A two kilometer wonderland of vaultedceilings and merchant stalls that
connects the old city to the new.
(09:34):
While much of what we see today wasbuilt during the Safavid era, parts of
this bazaar have been hosting tradersand shoppers for over a thousand years,
since the times of the Seljuq dynasty.
Walking through is like strollingthrough a living museum of commercial
architecture, where every arch and domehas witnessed countless transactions
(09:56):
and conversations across the centuries.
These architectural marvelsdon't just stand in isolation.
They're part of a carefullyplanned urban landscape.
To understand how they all fit together,we need to explore the geography that
makes this remarkable square possible.
Nestled in the heart of Iran, Isfahansits like a jewel in a natural cradle
(10:21):
where the Zeyandarud River meets theeastern foothills of the Zagros Mountains.
At an elevation of about 1, 574meters, or 5, 164 feet to be exact,
above sea level, the city enjoys aclimate that's more moderate than
many of its Middle Eastern neighbors.
(10:41):
But it's Isfahan's strategiclocation that makes it one of
the most historically significantcities in the entire Middle East.
Imagine.
A great crossroads in the center of Iran.
From north to south, travelersand traders would move between the
Caspian Sea and the Persian Gulf.
From east to west, the ancientSilk Road carried goods and
(11:05):
ideas between China and Europe.
Isfahan sat at the perfect intersectionof these vital routes, making it an
ideal choice when the Shah decidedto move his capital here in 1598.
Today, Isfahan is Iran'sthird largest city.
Situated about 340 kilometersor 211 miles south of Tehran.
(11:29):
The fertile plains surrounding thecity, watered by the Zayanderud River,
help support the population that wouldbuild and maintain such a magnificent
structure as the Maidan i Umam.
This geographic sweet spot, accessibleyet defensible, well watered, yet
close to the desert, and perfectlypositioned for trade, helps explain
(11:53):
why the Shah chose this location forwhat would become one of the world's
most spectacular public squares.
But to understand how this squaretransformed into a symbol of Persian
power and culture, let's delvefurther into its rich history.
The year was 1598, and Shah AbbasI the Great had a vision that would
(12:15):
transform not just a city, but an empire.
Imagine being in his position.
Ruling over the vast Safavid Empire,facing threats from the Ottomans to
the west and Uzbeks to the east, whiletrying to capitalize on the growing
trade through the Persian Gulf.
His solution?
(12:36):
A bold move that would reshapePersian history, relocating his
capital from Qazvin to Isfahan.
But Shah Abbas wasn't interested injust moving his government, he wanted
to create something unprecedented.
Enter one of history's most fascinatingfigures, Shaykh Bahai, the brilliant
(12:56):
chief architect, who would helpturn the Shah's dreams into reality.
In the early 1600s, this remarkableman designed not just a square,
but an entirely new concept ofwhat a city center could be.
During the day, the massive square wouldtransform into a bustling marketplace.
(13:17):
Merchants would set up their tents installs, paying rent to the government
for the privilege of selling theirwares in this prime location.
The air would have been filledwith the enticing aromas from
food vendors, and the constantbuzz of commerce and conversation.
But what made Meidan Emam truly specialwas how it broke down social barriers.
(13:39):
This wasn't just a royal square ora common marketplace, it was both.
Here, the king himself mightbe witnessed watching the same
entertainers as the subjects.
The square became a place where thewhole tapestry of Safavid society
would weave together each day.
And what evenings they must havebeen, as the sun set and the
(14:02):
merchants packed away their wares,the square would transform again.
Imagine standing there as dervishesbegan their mystical whirling, acrobats
performed death defying feats, andpuppet players spun their tails.
The coffee houses along theimperial bazaar entrance would
fill with people, sharing storiesover coffee and water pipes.
(14:27):
Though today, you're more likelyto find locals enjoying tea
in these same historic spots.
But perhaps the most spectacularevents were the grand celebrations.
During Nowruz, the Persian New Year, thesquare would come alive with festivities.
And then there were the polo matches.
(14:48):
Yes, right here in this square.
Picture the Shah and his courtwatching from the Ali Qapu Palace.
As skilled riders demonstrated theirmastery in this ancient Persian sport.
Under Shah Abbas's vision,Isfahan became one of the
world's most cosmopolitan cities.
The square wasn't just the heartof Persian culture, it was the
(15:11):
crossroads of world civilizations.
Chinese artisans brought theirsecrets of porcelain making.
Indian merchants and moneychangers established themselves
in dedicated caravanserais.
Europeans came as merchants, missionaries,and military experts, particularly
(15:31):
valued for their artillery knowledge.
As the Portuguese ambassador De Gouveanoted, Isfahan had become remarkably
open in its dealing with foreigners.
Even the square's orientation tellsus something fascinating about
Shaykh Bahai's brilliant planning.
Unlike most Islamic architecturalcomplexes, the meydan
(15:53):
isn't aligned with Mecca.
Instead, It was oriented to ensure theShah Mosque's magnificent dome would
be visible from every corner of thesquare, a masterful blend of practical
urban planning and symbolic power.
Now, let me share some fascinating tidbitsthat will make you the most interesting
(16:13):
person at any dinner party, when thetopic of Persian architecture comes up.
And let's be honest, whodoesn't talk about Persian
architecture at dinner parties?
First up, size matters.
Maidan Imam is the second largestsquare in the entire world.
That's right, only Beijing'sTiananmen Square surpasses it.
(16:37):
Next time someone mentions a huge townsquare, you can casually mention that it's
probably not as big as the one in Isfahan.
But here's something thatoften gets overlooked.
This square was essentially the world'smost beautiful power sharing agreement.
Picture a triangle.
At one point, you have themonarch and his palace.
(16:58):
At another, the merchantsin their magnificent bazaar.
And at the third, the clergyin their stunning mosques.
This wasn't just urban planning,it was political genius.
The center features a beautiful fountainsurrounded by refreshing gardens.
In a region known for its arid climate,these gardens are like a precious
(17:20):
jewel in an already magnificent crown.
The combination of water featuresand greenery creates an oasis
like atmosphere that makes thesquare feel alive and vibrant.
Oh, and here's something thatwould make the Shah smile.
The square still maintains itsoriental trading atmosphere
(17:40):
after all these centuries.
While you won't see the same tent citiesof merchants that once filled the space,
the arcades are still lined with shopsselling traditional crafts, and the
buzz of commerce still fills the air.
Now that we've taken an exhaustingtour of the Square, one that I'm
sure would take all day, let'stalk about how to get there, and
(18:02):
what you might want to carefullyconsider if this is your destination.
Before I jump into discussing how to getthere and all of the worthwhile things to
see, I do feel I should start by sharingthat, at the time of this recording, Iran
is on the Do Not Travel advisory listfor most of Europe and North America.
(18:22):
If you're flying in from another country,you will likely not find a direct flight.
You'll probably want to ultimately flyinto Isfahan International Airport.
And then take a taxi to get around.
I would suggest inquiring with your hotelor tour guides to see which companies they
would recommend, as pre booking a taxi ismuch safer than hailing one on the street.
(18:45):
In terms of getting tickets,this is a site that I strongly
suggest taking a tour.
Otherwise, you'll have to coordinatepaying to get into the buildings.
Such as Shah Mosque and ShiekLotfollah Mosque separately.
As in, you can't buy a single ticketto get into all of these places.
It is inexpensive though.
(19:08):
I do want to mention that theofficial language is Persian.
And my understanding is thatEnglish is not widely spoken,
so having a tour guide who speaksEnglish or whatever your native
language is may be important.
It also has the added benefit ofbeing led by someone who knows the
culture and can help you navigate.
Another thing to do that I foundintriguing is if you want to
(19:31):
experience the square in truestyle, you can take a horse drawn
carriage ride around its perimeter.
A romantic echo of the dayswhen mounted nobles would parade
through these same spaces.
Since you're already in the area,You may be wondering if there
are other worthwhile museums ortourist destinations to check out.
(19:51):
The answer is a resounding yes.
You may want to consider bundling a tripto Isfahan's city center, which is the
fourth largest shopping mall in the world.
Nazhuan Park is another optionif you love animals, there's
a reptile zoo and aquariums.
If you like architecture, there aremany other beautiful mosques from
(20:12):
the 15th and 16th centuries to date.
Other than the ones I mentioned, justbe sure to adhere to the dress code.
There are about 35, 000 foreignvisitors that come to Isfahan every
year, so there are plenty of hotel andbed and breakfast options available.
No homestay options thatI could locate, though.
(20:33):
So, all of this said, you may be wonderingwhen the best time of year is to visit.
As always, the weathermay be a good guide.
It's very dry and droughts havebeen an issue over the years.
During the summer, it's typicallybetween 80 to 90 degrees Fahrenheit.
Since it gets so hot, many choosenot to visit between June and August.
(20:56):
Now, if food is one of the reasons youlove to travel, and you have a sweet tooth
like me, you will love the options here.
Some standouts I would recommend tryingare Gosh-e fil, which is fried pastry with
powdered sugar, sort of like fried dough.
Gaz is another popular candy as well.
(21:16):
This is nougat with nuts, often pistachioand almond kernels in the center.
And for reference, Nougat isthat white stuff that's in the
center of Snickers candy bars.
There are quite a few restaurantsand huge grocery stores available.
Tea houses are popular as well,
(21:36):
many of which are worth visiting justto take photographs because they're
architectural wonders in their own right.
Speaking of food, there isone tip I wanted to share.
If you want to bring snacks on the planewith you, I know I always do, do not
bring any pork based jerky as a snack.
Bringing pork based products into thecountry could get you into trouble.
(22:00):
Also, if you like a glass ofwine with your meals, you'll
have to abstain during this trip.
Alcohol is prohibited.
Dead.
Now, I'm going to pivot to a storythat will excite the fellow lovers
of ghost stories and conspiracies.
Rig - e Jenn, sand dunes in the middleof the desert, is believed to be haunted.
(22:23):
Residents of nearby towns avoid thisarea, and actually refer to it as their
own City of Stone or Bermuda Triangle.
Picture this, fierce windshowling in the night.
And strange sounds echoing from the stonesexpanding and contracting due to the
cold mornings and blazing hot afternoons.
(22:45):
Some claim those spirits are callingout, wanting to claim a victim.
Remember, if you visit,there may be something to the
claims that it's dangerous.
It's very remote, and there'slittle to no cell phone coverage.
Also, it's likely these legendsemerged from the disturbing truth that
(23:06):
the salt marshes have claimed lives.
They operate much like quicksand,swallowing people whole.
So let's wrap up today by talkingabout what's being done to
preserve this incredible place.
Some of the issues are related to thefact that there's no official management
plan and a very minimal budget.
(23:29):
The square enclosure is takencare of by the municipality.
With financial resources comingthrough national, municipal
budgets, and private donations.
Another issue is the poor air quality,which affects buildings because it can
be corrosive and cause discoloration.
Iran did pass the Clean Air Law in 2017,so I'm guessing that as this is heavily
(23:54):
enforced, this may be less of an issue.
Also, much like many sites.
There's been pressure to allow commercialbuildings to be put up, as well as
parking lots in the historic center.
Thankfully, there's a buffer zone betweenthe site and the newer construction, so I
am confident that this beautiful site willbe here for future generations to enjoy.
(24:17):
Thank you for listening tothe Global Treasures Podcast.
If you would like to support the show,please subscribe at Apple Podcasts,
Spotify, or wherever you get yourpodcasts, and find us on TikTok.
That concludes our journey through themagnificent Meidan Emam of Isfahan.
From its breathtaking mosques andGrand Palace, to its vibrant bazaar
(24:40):
and vast open square, this UNESCO WorldHeritage Site stands as a testament.
to the extraordinary vision of ShahAbbas and the brilliant architectural
genius of the Safavid Empire.
We hope this episode has given you adeeper appreciation for the incredible
achievement that is Naqsh e Jahan Square.
(25:01):
This isn't just a historicalmonument frozen in time.
It remains a living, breathingspace where commerce, culture,
and community continue to thrive.
Just as they have for over fourcenturies, it shows us how truly great
architecture and urban planning cancreate spaces that remain relevant
and vital across the centuries.
(25:24):
Our next episode will transport uswestward to one of the most iconic
civilizations in human history.
We're heading to Egypt to exploreMemphis and its necropolis, the
ancient capital of the Old Kingdom,and home to some of the most remarkable
funerary monuments in the ever created.
From the step pyramid of Djoser to themagnificent necropolis of Saqqara, this
(25:48):
vast archaeological zone tells the storyof how ancient Egyptian civilization
literally built its way to immortality.
It's a place where the boundarybetween the world of the living and
the realm of the dead blurred, wherearchitecture became a bridge to eternity.
And where the foundations of monumentalstone architecture were first laid down.
(26:12):
So join us next time, as we unlockthe mysteries of ancient Memphis,
and discover how its pyramids,tombs, and temples changed the
course of human architecture forever.
Until then, keep exploring, keepwondering, and keep treasuring
the remarkable diversityof our world's heritage.
(26:34):
See you on our next adventure.
Imagine a place that tells a story spanning centuries, where
culture and nature intertwine tocreate something truly extraordinary.
That's the beauty of UNESCOWorld Heritage Sites.
I'm Abigail, and this is Global Treasures.
The podcast that covers thehistory, travel tips, and legends
(00:20):
surrounding one of the 1, 223World Heritage Sites each episode.
These places have been identifiedas having universal cultural or
natural significance that is soexceptional that it transcends national
boundaries and is of importanceto present and future generations.
Welcome to Season 2, where we'll continue.
(00:40):
Explore the 45 sites thatUNESCO added in 1979.
Together
today, we're traveling to the heart ofIran to discover a place so magnificent
that it earned the nickname imageof the World Naqsh-e Jahan Square.
Picture yourself standing atthe edge of one of the world's
(01:03):
most magnificent public squares.
The morning sun catches the intricate bluetiles of towering minarets, while the buzz
of shopkeepers setting up their stallsechoes through the ancient archways.
The air carries the mingled scentsof saffron and rosewater from nearby
bazaars, and everywhere you look,architectural masterpieces stretch
(01:27):
towards the crystal clear Iranian sky.
Welcome to Meidan Emam, the stunningjewel of Isfahan's crown and one of
humanity's greatest public spaces.
When we talk about public squares, weoften think of intimate European plazas
or modest town commons, but MeidanEmam defies such modest comparisons.
(01:53):
This vast urban space stretchesan astounding 560 meters in
length, And 160 meters in width.
That's about 22 acres ofarchitectural splendor.
To put that in perspective, imaginenine football fields arranged in a
rectangle, all surrounded by some of themost beautiful buildings ever created.
(02:17):
But what makes this space trulyremarkable isn't just its size, it's the
harmonious way everything works together.
Built at the beginning of the 17thcentury, under the visionary Shah Abbas I,
the Great, The square represents somethingunusual in Iranian urban planning.
While most Persian cities featuretightly packed streets and buildings,
(02:41):
Shah Abbas and his brilliant architect,Sheikh Bahayee, dared to dream bigger.
They created an open space thatwould become the beating heart
of the Safavid empire's capital.
Picture yourself walking along the twostoried arcades that frame the square.
Hundreds of shops line these corridors,their windows displaying everything
(03:03):
from hand woven Persian carpets,to intricate miniature paintings.
But it's what stands at the fourcardinal points of the square
that truly takes your breath away.
To the east rises the Mosque of SheikhLotfollah, a masterpiece of Safavid
architecture that served as theprivate mosque for the royal court.
(03:26):
Its dome, adorned with intricate tilework that changes color throughout the
day, seems to dance in the sunlight.
On the western side stands themagnificent Ali Qapu Pavilion, a
six story palace that served as themonumental entrance to the royal gardens.
Its elevated terrace offered theShah a perfect view of everything
(03:49):
happening in his grand square, frompolo matches to military parades.
The northern edge is crownedby the portico of Qaysariyyeh,
The grand entrance to Isfahan'sfamous two kilometer long bazaar.
Above it, a balcony once heldmusicians who filled the square with
(04:10):
melody during public celebrations.
And finally, to the south, commandingattention with its massive dome and
soaring minarets, stands the Royal Mosque.
It's carefully angled to face Mecca,creating an interesting architectural
feat that somehow manages to maintainthe square's perfect symmetry.
(04:33):
What makes Meidan Emam trulyspecial is how it served as more
than just a beautiful space.
It was the beating heart of Safavid life.
This wasn't just a pretty plaza.
It was where life happened.
Public celebrations, military parades,and even polo matches took place here.
(04:53):
You heard that right.
Polo.
Long before it became known as the sportof kings in the West, Persian nobility
were playing it right here in the square.
The entire complex stands as a testamentto the sophistication of Safavid
culture during Iran's Golden Age.
Every surface tells a story, fromthe endless arcades adorned with
(05:16):
vibrant enamel tiles, to the intricatepaintings that decorate the pavilions.
It's a place where architecture,urban planning, and artistic beauty
come together in a perfect harmony tocreate something truly extraordinary.
If Meidan Emam is a crown, Then the RoyalMosque is undoubtedly its central jewel.
(05:38):
When Shah Abbas commissioned thismagnificent structure, he wasn't
just building another mosque.
He was making a bold statementabout his reign and the
power of the Safavid dynasty.
The Friday Prayers?
The most important gathering of theIslamic week had been held at the city's
ancient Jameh Mosque for centuries.
(06:01):
Moving them to this new locationwas nothing short of revolutionary.
But if you're going to replace tradition,you'd better do it with grandeur.
And that's exactly what the Shahand his master architect did.
They didn't just build a mosque, theycreated an entire religious complex.
Picture this (06:20):
a grand mosque crowned with the largest dome in the city,
flanked by a religious school on oneside and a winter mosque on the other.
It was designed not just toimpress, but to serve the
community through every season.
Let's take a step back in time, to thesquare's construction, because there's
(06:41):
something fascinating about the orderin which these buildings were created.
While the royal mosque might be thegrandest structure, It wasn't the
first to rise from the desert soil.
That honor belongs to the more intimatebut equally magnificent Lotfollah Mosque,
sitting opposite the Royal Palace.
The mosque tells us something interestingabout life in Safavid Isfahan.
(07:06):
Unlike its grand cousin across the square,this wasn't meant for the general public.
This was the RoyalCourt's private sanctuary.
A place where the Shah's familyand closest associates could
worship away from the public eye.
Its more modest size beliesthe incredible artistry within.
(07:26):
Some say the tile work here is even moreexquisite than in the royal mosque itself.
Now, let me tell you about one ofthe most intriguing buildings on
the square, the Ali Qapu Palace.
The name itself is afascinating blend of cultures.
Ali, Arabic for exalted, andQapu, a Turkic word meaning
(07:49):
portal or royal threshold.
Together, they create the ExaltedPort, a fitting name for what served
as the grand entrance to the vastroyal quarters of the Safavid Isfahan.
But calling Ali Qapu just anentrance is like calling the
Pacific Ocean just a body of water.
(08:10):
This six story pavilion was the placewhere the business of empire happened.
Climb with me to the sixth floor, wherethe grandest rooms in the palace await.
Here, in vast halls decoratedwith intricate stucco
designs of vessels and copse.
The Shah would host royalreceptions and lavish banquets.
(08:31):
These rooms are so remarkable thatmost people today call the top floor
the music room, though imagine tryingto hear the music over the sounds
of all those royal festivities.
And the entertainment wasn'tlimited to indoor banquets.
The Ali Qapu Upper Galleries offered theperfect vantage point for the Shah and
(08:52):
his guests to watch the spectacles below.
Imagine standing there watchingpolo matches played out across
the massive square or witnessingelaborate horse maneuvers and races.
It was the royal box seat forthe greatest show in Persia.
But no discussion of Meidan Emam'sarchitecture would be complete
(09:12):
without mentioning the Grand Bazaarthat extends from its northern edge.
Through the magnificent portal ofQaysariyyeh stretches one of the Middle
East's oldest and largest marketplaces.
A two kilometer wonderland of vaultedceilings and merchant stalls that
connects the old city to the new.
(09:34):
While much of what we see today wasbuilt during the Safavid era, parts of
this bazaar have been hosting tradersand shoppers for over a thousand years,
since the times of the Seljuq dynasty.
Walking through is like strollingthrough a living museum of commercial
architecture, where every arch and domehas witnessed countless transactions
(09:56):
and conversations across the centuries.
These architectural marvelsdon't just stand in isolation.
They're part of a carefullyplanned urban landscape.
To understand how they all fit together,we need to explore the geography that
makes this remarkable square possible.
Nestled in the heart of Iran, Isfahansits like a jewel in a natural cradle
(10:21):
where the Zeyandarud River meets theeastern foothills of the Zagros Mountains.
At an elevation of about 1, 574meters, or 5, 164 feet to be exact,
above sea level, the city enjoys aclimate that's more moderate than
many of its Middle Eastern neighbors.
(10:41):
But it's Isfahan's strategiclocation that makes it one of
the most historically significantcities in the entire Middle East.
Imagine.
A great crossroads in the center of Iran.
From north to south, travelersand traders would move between the
Caspian Sea and the Persian Gulf.
From east to west, the ancientSilk Road carried goods and
(11:05):
ideas between China and Europe.
Isfahan sat at the perfect intersectionof these vital routes, making it an
ideal choice when the Shah decidedto move his capital here in 1598.
Today, Isfahan is Iran'sthird largest city.
Situated about 340 kilometersor 211 miles south of Tehran.
(11:29):
The fertile plains surrounding thecity, watered by the Zayanderud River,
help support the population that wouldbuild and maintain such a magnificent
structure as the Maidan i Umam.
This geographic sweet spot, accessibleyet defensible, well watered, yet
close to the desert, and perfectlypositioned for trade, helps explain
(11:53):
why the Shah chose this location forwhat would become one of the world's
most spectacular public squares.
But to understand how this squaretransformed into a symbol of Persian
power and culture, let's delvefurther into its rich history.
The year was 1598, and Shah AbbasI the Great had a vision that would
(12:15):
transform not just a city, but an empire.
Imagine being in his position.
Ruling over the vast Safavid Empire,facing threats from the Ottomans to
the west and Uzbeks to the east, whiletrying to capitalize on the growing
trade through the Persian Gulf.
His solution?
(12:36):
A bold move that would reshapePersian history, relocating his
capital from Qazvin to Isfahan.
But Shah Abbas wasn't interested injust moving his government, he wanted
to create something unprecedented.
Enter one of history's most fascinatingfigures, Shaykh Bahai, the brilliant
(12:56):
chief architect, who would helpturn the Shah's dreams into reality.
In the early 1600s, this remarkableman designed not just a square,
but an entirely new concept ofwhat a city center could be.
During the day, the massive square wouldtransform into a bustling marketplace.
(13:17):
Merchants would set up their tents installs, paying rent to the government
for the privilege of selling theirwares in this prime location.
The air would have been filledwith the enticing aromas from
food vendors, and the constantbuzz of commerce and conversation.
But what made Meidan Emam truly specialwas how it broke down social barriers.
(13:39):
This wasn't just a royal square ora common marketplace, it was both.
Here, the king himself mightbe witnessed watching the same
entertainers as the subjects.
The square became a place where thewhole tapestry of Safavid society
would weave together each day.
And what evenings they must havebeen, as the sun set and the
(14:02):
merchants packed away their wares,the square would transform again.
Imagine standing there as dervishesbegan their mystical whirling, acrobats
performed death defying feats, andpuppet players spun their tails.
The coffee houses along theimperial bazaar entrance would
fill with people, sharing storiesover coffee and water pipes.
(14:27):
Though today, you're more likelyto find locals enjoying tea
in these same historic spots.
But perhaps the most spectacularevents were the grand celebrations.
During Nowruz, the Persian New Year, thesquare would come alive with festivities.
And then there were the polo matches.
(14:48):
Yes, right here in this square.
Picture the Shah and his courtwatching from the Ali Qapu Palace.
As skilled riders demonstrated theirmastery in this ancient Persian sport.
Under Shah Abbas's vision,Isfahan became one of the
world's most cosmopolitan cities.
The square wasn't just the heartof Persian culture, it was the
(15:11):
crossroads of world civilizations.
Chinese artisans brought theirsecrets of porcelain making.
Indian merchants and moneychangers established themselves
in dedicated caravanserais.
Europeans came as merchants, missionaries,and military experts, particularly
(15:31):
valued for their artillery knowledge.
As the Portuguese ambassador De Gouveanoted, Isfahan had become remarkably
open in its dealing with foreigners.
Even the square's orientation tellsus something fascinating about
Shaykh Bahai's brilliant planning.
Unlike most Islamic architecturalcomplexes, the meydan
(15:53):
isn't aligned with Mecca.
Instead, It was oriented to ensure theShah Mosque's magnificent dome would
be visible from every corner of thesquare, a masterful blend of practical
urban planning and symbolic power.
Now, let me share some fascinating tidbitsthat will make you the most interesting
(16:13):
person at any dinner party, when thetopic of Persian architecture comes up.
And let's be honest, whodoesn't talk about Persian
architecture at dinner parties?
First up, size matters.
Maidan Imam is the second largestsquare in the entire world.
That's right, only Beijing'sTiananmen Square surpasses it.
(16:37):
Next time someone mentions a huge townsquare, you can casually mention that it's
probably not as big as the one in Isfahan.
But here's something thatoften gets overlooked.
This square was essentially the world'smost beautiful power sharing agreement.
Picture a triangle.
At one point, you have themonarch and his palace.
(16:58):
At another, the merchantsin their magnificent bazaar.
And at the third, the clergyin their stunning mosques.
This wasn't just urban planning,it was political genius.
The center features a beautiful fountainsurrounded by refreshing gardens.
In a region known for its arid climate,these gardens are like a precious
(17:20):
jewel in an already magnificent crown.
The combination of water featuresand greenery creates an oasis
like atmosphere that makes thesquare feel alive and vibrant.
Oh, and here's something thatwould make the Shah smile.
The square still maintains itsoriental trading atmosphere
(17:40):
after all these centuries.
While you won't see the same tent citiesof merchants that once filled the space,
the arcades are still lined with shopsselling traditional crafts, and the
buzz of commerce still fills the air.
Now that we've taken an exhaustingtour of the Square, one that I'm
sure would take all day, let'stalk about how to get there, and
(18:02):
what you might want to carefullyconsider if this is your destination.
Before I jump into discussing how to getthere and all of the worthwhile things to
see, I do feel I should start by sharingthat, at the time of this recording, Iran
is on the Do Not Travel advisory listfor most of Europe and North America.
(18:22):
If you're flying in from another country,you will likely not find a direct flight.
You'll probably want to ultimately flyinto Isfahan International Airport.
And then take a taxi to get around.
I would suggest inquiring with your hotelor tour guides to see which companies they
would recommend, as pre booking a taxi ismuch safer than hailing one on the street.
(18:45):
In terms of getting tickets,this is a site that I strongly
suggest taking a tour.
Otherwise, you'll have to coordinatepaying to get into the buildings.
Such as Shah Mosque and ShiekLotfollah Mosque separately.
As in, you can't buy a single ticketto get into all of these places.
It is inexpensive though.
(19:08):
I do want to mention that theofficial language is Persian.
And my understanding is thatEnglish is not widely spoken,
so having a tour guide who speaksEnglish or whatever your native
language is may be important.
It also has the added benefit ofbeing led by someone who knows the
culture and can help you navigate.
Another thing to do that I foundintriguing is if you want to
(19:31):
experience the square in truestyle, you can take a horse drawn
carriage ride around its perimeter.
A romantic echo of the dayswhen mounted nobles would parade
through these same spaces.
Since you're already in the area,You may be wondering if there
are other worthwhile museums ortourist destinations to check out.
(19:51):
The answer is a resounding yes.
You may want to consider bundling a tripto Isfahan's city center, which is the
fourth largest shopping mall in the world.
Nazhuan Park is another optionif you love animals, there's
a reptile zoo and aquariums.
If you like architecture, there aremany other beautiful mosques from
(20:12):
the 15th and 16th centuries to date.
Other than the ones I mentioned, justbe sure to adhere to the dress code.
There are about 35, 000 foreignvisitors that come to Isfahan every
year, so there are plenty of hotel andbed and breakfast options available.
No homestay options thatI could locate, though.
(20:33):
So, all of this said, you may be wonderingwhen the best time of year is to visit.
As always, the weathermay be a good guide.
It's very dry and droughts havebeen an issue over the years.
During the summer, it's typicallybetween 80 to 90 degrees Fahrenheit.
Since it gets so hot, many choosenot to visit between June and August.
(20:56):
Now, if food is one of the reasons youlove to travel, and you have a sweet tooth
like me, you will love the options here.
Some standouts I would recommend tryingare Gosh-e fil, which is fried pastry with
powdered sugar, sort of like fried dough.
Gaz is another popular candy as well.
(21:16):
This is nougat with nuts, often pistachioand almond kernels in the center.
And for reference, Nougat isthat white stuff that's in the
center of Snickers candy bars.
There are quite a few restaurantsand huge grocery stores available.
Tea houses are popular as well,
(21:36):
many of which are worth visiting justto take photographs because they're
architectural wonders in their own right.
Speaking of food, there isone tip I wanted to share.
If you want to bring snacks on the planewith you, I know I always do, do not
bring any pork based jerky as a snack.
Bringing pork based products into thecountry could get you into trouble.
(22:00):
Also, if you like a glass ofwine with your meals, you'll
have to abstain during this trip.
Alcohol is prohibited.
Dead.
Now, I'm going to pivot to a storythat will excite the fellow lovers
of ghost stories and conspiracies.
Rig - e Jenn, sand dunes in the middleof the desert, is believed to be haunted.
(22:23):
Residents of nearby towns avoid thisarea, and actually refer to it as their
own City of Stone or Bermuda Triangle.
Picture this, fierce windshowling in the night.
And strange sounds echoing from the stonesexpanding and contracting due to the
cold mornings and blazing hot afternoons.
(22:45):
Some claim those spirits are callingout, wanting to claim a victim.
Remember, if you visit,there may be something to the
claims that it's dangerous.
It's very remote, and there'slittle to no cell phone coverage.
Also, it's likely these legendsemerged from the disturbing truth that
(23:06):
the salt marshes have claimed lives.
They operate much like quicksand,swallowing people whole.
So let's wrap up today by talkingabout what's being done to
preserve this incredible place.
Some of the issues are related to thefact that there's no official management
plan and a very minimal budget.
(23:29):
The square enclosure is takencare of by the municipality.
With financial resources comingthrough national, municipal
budgets, and private donations.
Another issue is the poor air quality,which affects buildings because it can
be corrosive and cause discoloration.
Iran did pass the Clean Air Law in 2017,so I'm guessing that as this is heavily
(23:54):
enforced, this may be less of an issue.
Also, much like many sites.
There's been pressure to allow commercialbuildings to be put up, as well as
parking lots in the historic center.
Thankfully, there's a buffer zone betweenthe site and the newer construction, so I
am confident that this beautiful site willbe here for future generations to enjoy.
(24:17):
Thank you for listening tothe Global Treasures Podcast.
If you would like to support the show,please subscribe at Apple Podcasts,
Spotify, or wherever you get yourpodcasts, and find us on TikTok.
That concludes our journey through themagnificent Meidan Emam of Isfahan.
From its breathtaking mosques andGrand Palace, to its vibrant bazaar
(24:40):
and vast open square, this UNESCO WorldHeritage Site stands as a testament.
to the extraordinary vision of ShahAbbas and the brilliant architectural
genius of the Safavid Empire.
We hope this episode has given you adeeper appreciation for the incredible
achievement that is Naqsh e Jahan Square.
(25:01):
This isn't just a historicalmonument frozen in time.
It remains a living, breathingspace where commerce, culture,
and community continue to thrive.
Just as they have for over fourcenturies, it shows us how truly great
architecture and urban planning cancreate spaces that remain relevant
and vital across the centuries.
(25:24):
Our next episode will transport uswestward to one of the most iconic
civilizations in human history.
We're heading to Egypt to exploreMemphis and its necropolis, the
ancient capital of the Old Kingdom,and home to some of the most remarkable
funerary monuments in the ever created.
From the step pyramid of Djoser to themagnificent necropolis of Saqqara, this
(25:48):
vast archaeological zone tells the storyof how ancient Egyptian civilization
literally built its way to immortality.
It's a place where the boundarybetween the world of the living and
the realm of the dead blurred, wherearchitecture became a bridge to eternity.
And where the foundations of monumentalstone architecture were first laid down.
(26:12):
So join us next time, as we unlockthe mysteries of ancient Memphis,
and discover how its pyramids,tombs, and temples changed the
course of human architecture forever.
Until then, keep exploring, keepwondering, and keep treasuring
the remarkable diversityof our world's heritage.
(26:34):
See you on our next adventure.
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