August 27, 2025 • 13 mins
This episode of Global Treasures covers Vezelay, Church and Hill, located in France. The Benedictine Abbey of Vézelay is a major place for pilgrimage and landmark for Christianity. Join Abigail as she discusses the history, travel tips and fun facts about this unique world heritage site.
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Transcript
Episode Transcript
Available transcripts are automatically generated. Complete accuracy is not guaranteed.
Abigail (00:00):
Imagine a place that tells a story spanning centuries where
culture and nature intertwine tocreate something truly extraordinary.
That's the beauty of UNESCOWorld Heritage Sites.
I'm Abigail and this is Global Treasures,the podcast that covers the history,
(00:23):
travel, tips and legends surroundingone of the 1,223 World Heritage Sites
each episode.
These places have been identifiedas having universal cultural or
natural significance that is soexceptional that it transcends national
(00:43):
boundaries and is of importanceto present and future generations.
Welcome to season two, wherewe'll explore the 45 sites that
UNESCO added in 1979 together.
Thank you for listening tothe Global Treasures Podcast.
We appreciate all of your support and youcan continue to support us by subscribing
(01:06):
at Apple Podcasts, Spotify, or Podbean.
You can also follow uson TikTok and Facebook.
Please leave us a review andtell your friends about us.
Word of mouth is how manypeople discover the podcast.
At the very top of a hill inthe French Department of Yonne
(01:26):
stands Vezelay Abbey, a Paragon
of Burgundinian Romanesque architectureand a testament to centuries of religious
devotion and political turbulence.
UNESCO has designated the site asVezelay, Church and Hill because it
includes both the iconic basilicaand the surrounding hilly landscape.
(01:51):
Before it was a Benedictine andlater Cluniac monastery, the grounds
once were home to a Roman villa.
This estate was passed on tothe Carolingians and eventually
to Count Girart of Roussillonwho founded two convents.
These early spiritual institutions werenot to last long, though Moorish raiding
(02:15):
parties in the eighth century looted themand later raiders burn a hilltop convent.
It wasn't until the ninth century thatthe site established a second life.
Under the direction of a determinedmonk, the Abbey was reinstated and joined
forces with a reformed Benedictine order.
(02:39):
Moving forward, Vezelay's importancebegan to grow not only as a monastic
community, but also because it servedas a vital stop on the Santiago de
Compostela pilgrimage route in Spain.
Around 1050, the monks at Vezelaymade a claim that would forever cement
(03:01):
Vezelay's status as one of France'smost esteemed places of pilgrimage.
These monks declared that theyowned the relics of Mary Magdalene.
Per their version of the story,these relics traveled all
the way from the Holy Land.
Later, the discovery of a crypt containingan empty tomb engraved with what is
(03:25):
interpreted to be Mary Magdalene anointingJesus gave validity to their assertion.
The monks proclaimed that this wasMary Magdalene's original tomb from
which her personal belongings hadbeen taken and transported to Vezelay.
While it had long been considered oneof the four notable routes in France for
(03:49):
medieval pilgrims, this assertion turnedthe abbey into one of the most revered
pilgrimage destinations in all of Europe.
So deep the devotion, former prisonersbrought their chains as a sort of
offering, and the head of the Abbeyforged these iron shackles to create
(04:11):
the railings that still surround MaryMagdalene's altar to this very day.
The adoration of Mary Magdalene, who islong seen as the quintessential repenter
continued to draw worshipersin droves, their donations
funding the abbey's expansion.
In response to the growinginflux of pilgrims, a new
(04:34):
Abbey church was dedicated.
However, the costly construction led tohigher taxes and tragedy when the locals
revolted and killed the Abbot in response.
The Abbey was to become the locationfor some of the most significant events
in medieval Christiandom, yet again onEaster in the year 1146, St. Bernard of
(05:01):
Clairvaux preached the second crusadewith none other and King Louis vii.
In attendance more than 45 yearslater, king Richard of England and
King Philip met at Vezelay beforedeparting together for the third crusade.
(05:21):
Yet Vezelay's history wasnot without more drama.
The nave burned in a tragic fire thatclaimed many lives and required it to be
rebuilt, only for it to burn once again.
Nonetheless, the abbeys monasticcommunity remained determined to
defend its rights and privileges.
(05:44):
Vezelay's status as the site ofMary Magdalene's veneration began to
decline in the late 12 hundreds withthe supposed discovery of her remains
at Saint-Maximin-la-Sainte-Baumein Province.
The following centuries brought bothnatural decline and human destruction.
(06:05):
Huguenots torched numerous relics in the1500s, including those of Mary Magdalene.
And during the French Revolution,the Abbey suffered further damage.
At the dawn of the 19th century, theAbbey remained in critical condition.
On the recommendation of France'sinspector of historical monuments at
(06:28):
the time, an architect was brought in toconduct an intensive restoration project.
After the renovation in 1976, aremarkable alignment was uncovered.
The architecture was designed not tofollow the traditional east west axis,
(06:48):
but to follow the path of the sun.
Each year at the summer solstice, rightbefore the start of the Feast of St.
John the Baptist, sunlight pours throughthe lofty southern windows, shedding
spots of light in perfect alignmentalong the center of the nave floor.
(07:09):
The celestial pattern bathingthis enduring monument
of faith in luminescence.
The Church of Vezelay is one of the firstmedieval buildings to have proactive
conservation efforts taken on its behalfdue to its historic and artistic value.
Since then, an entire set of protectionmeasures have been developed to
(07:31):
protect the church, village, thehill, and the adjacent landscape.
The property is protected by abuffer zone, which helps prevent
potential development fromencroaching on the site long term.
The church and the public spaces belongto the commune, but they work very closely
with the state to preserve Vezelay.
(07:54):
The current focus is to improve howthe influx of visitor and vehicular
traffic is managed on and aroundthe property into the future.
Speaking of visitors, now that you havethe history, let me discuss the logistics
and travel tips for visiting this site.
If you're flying in from another country,your best bet is to fly into Dijon
(08:19):
Bourgogne Airport, rent a car, and drive.
You can take a train from Charlesde Gaulle airport in Paris, but
it'll be three and hours eachway, whereas the Dijon airport
is about an hour and a half away.
Ride share options are less prevalentoutside of the larger cities, and
(08:39):
using taxis can be quite expensive.
Once you get to the site, toursare offered in multiple languages.
Keep in mind that the primarylanguage spoken is French.
You can purchase ticketsahead of time online as well.
Given the site gets about amillion visitors annually,
and the tours are small,
(09:01):
booking in advance will ensureyou can get the day you want.
There is parking if you drive as well.
It's typically recommended to planone and a half to three hours.
The church has so much detail that you'llwant to spend some time really digging
in and likely taking numerous photos.
This is just another reasona tour would be wise.
(09:24):
Your guide will likely be an expertwho will really dive into the
story behind what you are seeing.
For example, an area locatedabove the doorway is carved with a
depiction of the first crusade and thePentecostal mission of the apostles.
That being said, historians stillargue about what story this masterpiece
(09:50):
is trying to tell to this day.
You also can view relics of MaryMagdalene I spoke of previously.
The tours are not exorbitantly expensive
and some of them take you to whatthey call the visitor's house first,
which has a projection room whereyou can see the famous light I spoke
of before that's only visible oncertain dates within the basilica.
(10:13):
If you are trying to plan your tripbased on the weather, this area gets
a good amount of rain and rarelygets above 70 degrees Fahrenheit
even during the summer month.
If you would like to visit duringthe summer solstice, you'll have to
check your calendar and see when itfalls in the given year of your trip.
In terms of choosing where tostay, Vezelay has very few hotel or
(10:37):
restaurant options, so many choose totake a day trip from Dijon, which has
a wider variety of hotels, bed andbreakfasts and homes stay options.
And a question I get frequentlyis so Dijon as in the mustard?
And the answer is yes.
Dijon mustard originated in Dijon, France.
(11:00):
Outside of condiments, Dijon offersnumerous museums and a botanic garden
you can enjoy while visiting as well.
You also may want to see the well ofMoses, an incredible gothic sculpture
that's truly moving in, very photogenic.
Circling back to the cuisine,you need to experience the food.
(11:22):
Especially if you have an appreciationfor the finer tastes in life.
There are so many foods Iwould encourage you to try, but
escargot is definitely a standout.
It's been a delicacy inFrance for centuries.
Escargot are snails cooked often ina rich butter sauce, usually with
(11:44):
garlic and sometimes breadcrumbs.
It's typically eaten with a twoor three-pronged fork, allowing
you to truly savor each bite.
Before you turn your nose up atit, I urge you to be open-minded.
While the texture can be a bit offputting for some, it really is delicious.
(12:05):
It's actually one of my favorite foods.
So whether you enjoy architecture,art, or want to pilgrimage to a place
of spiritual significance, Vezelay'sextraordinary influence in medieval
Christianity and its outstandingRomanesque design continues to inspire
awe and is a must for any world traveler.
(12:29):
Join us for our next episode,the finale for season two.
Virunga National Park, which wasAfrica's first national park.
Located in the Democratic Republic of theCongo, its home to two active volcanoes
and the endangered mountain gorilla.
Until then, keep exploring,keep wondering, and keep
(12:54):
treasuring the remarkablediversity of our world's heritage
Imagine a place that tells a story spanning centuries where
culture and nature intertwine tocreate something truly extraordinary.
That's the beauty of UNESCOWorld Heritage Sites.
I'm Abigail and this is Global Treasures,the podcast that covers the history,
(00:23):
travel, tips and legends surroundingone of the 1,223 World Heritage Sites
each episode.
These places have been identifiedas having universal cultural or
natural significance that is soexceptional that it transcends national
(00:43):
boundaries and is of importanceto present and future generations.
Welcome to season two, wherewe'll explore the 45 sites that
UNESCO added in 1979 together.
Thank you for listening tothe Global Treasures Podcast.
We appreciate all of your support and youcan continue to support us by subscribing
(01:06):
at Apple Podcasts, Spotify, or Podbean.
You can also follow uson TikTok and Facebook.
Please leave us a review andtell your friends about us.
Word of mouth is how manypeople discover the podcast.
At the very top of a hill inthe French Department of Yonne
(01:26):
stands Vezelay Abbey, a Paragon
of Burgundinian Romanesque architectureand a testament to centuries of religious
devotion and political turbulence.
UNESCO has designated the site asVezelay, Church and Hill because it
includes both the iconic basilicaand the surrounding hilly landscape.
(01:51):
Before it was a Benedictine andlater Cluniac monastery, the grounds
once were home to a Roman villa.
This estate was passed on tothe Carolingians and eventually
to Count Girart of Roussillonwho founded two convents.
These early spiritual institutions werenot to last long, though Moorish raiding
(02:15):
parties in the eighth century looted themand later raiders burn a hilltop convent.
It wasn't until the ninth century thatthe site established a second life.
Under the direction of a determinedmonk, the Abbey was reinstated and joined
forces with a reformed Benedictine order.
(02:39):
Moving forward, Vezelay's importancebegan to grow not only as a monastic
community, but also because it servedas a vital stop on the Santiago de
Compostela pilgrimage route in Spain.
Around 1050, the monks at Vezelaymade a claim that would forever cement
(03:01):
Vezelay's status as one of France'smost esteemed places of pilgrimage.
These monks declared that theyowned the relics of Mary Magdalene.
Per their version of the story,these relics traveled all
the way from the Holy Land.
Later, the discovery of a crypt containingan empty tomb engraved with what is
(03:25):
interpreted to be Mary Magdalene anointingJesus gave validity to their assertion.
The monks proclaimed that this wasMary Magdalene's original tomb from
which her personal belongings hadbeen taken and transported to Vezelay.
While it had long been considered oneof the four notable routes in France for
(03:49):
medieval pilgrims, this assertion turnedthe abbey into one of the most revered
pilgrimage destinations in all of Europe.
So deep the devotion, former prisonersbrought their chains as a sort of
offering, and the head of the Abbeyforged these iron shackles to create
(04:11):
the railings that still surround MaryMagdalene's altar to this very day.
The adoration of Mary Magdalene, who islong seen as the quintessential repenter
continued to draw worshipersin droves, their donations
funding the abbey's expansion.
In response to the growinginflux of pilgrims, a new
(04:34):
Abbey church was dedicated.
However, the costly construction led tohigher taxes and tragedy when the locals
revolted and killed the Abbot in response.
The Abbey was to become the locationfor some of the most significant events
in medieval Christiandom, yet again onEaster in the year 1146, St. Bernard of
(05:01):
Clairvaux preached the second crusadewith none other and King Louis vii.
In attendance more than 45 yearslater, king Richard of England and
King Philip met at Vezelay beforedeparting together for the third crusade.
(05:21):
Yet Vezelay's history wasnot without more drama.
The nave burned in a tragic fire thatclaimed many lives and required it to be
rebuilt, only for it to burn once again.
Nonetheless, the abbeys monasticcommunity remained determined to
defend its rights and privileges.
(05:44):
Vezelay's status as the site ofMary Magdalene's veneration began to
decline in the late 12 hundreds withthe supposed discovery of her remains
at Saint-Maximin-la-Sainte-Baumein Province.
The following centuries brought bothnatural decline and human destruction.
(06:05):
Huguenots torched numerous relics in the1500s, including those of Mary Magdalene.
And during the French Revolution,the Abbey suffered further damage.
At the dawn of the 19th century, theAbbey remained in critical condition.
On the recommendation of France'sinspector of historical monuments at
(06:28):
the time, an architect was brought in toconduct an intensive restoration project.
After the renovation in 1976, aremarkable alignment was uncovered.
The architecture was designed not tofollow the traditional east west axis,
(06:48):
but to follow the path of the sun.
Each year at the summer solstice, rightbefore the start of the Feast of St.
John the Baptist, sunlight pours throughthe lofty southern windows, shedding
spots of light in perfect alignmentalong the center of the nave floor.
(07:09):
The celestial pattern bathingthis enduring monument
of faith in luminescence.
The Church of Vezelay is one of the firstmedieval buildings to have proactive
conservation efforts taken on its behalfdue to its historic and artistic value.
Since then, an entire set of protectionmeasures have been developed to
(07:31):
protect the church, village, thehill, and the adjacent landscape.
The property is protected by abuffer zone, which helps prevent
potential development fromencroaching on the site long term.
The church and the public spaces belongto the commune, but they work very closely
with the state to preserve Vezelay.
(07:54):
The current focus is to improve howthe influx of visitor and vehicular
traffic is managed on and aroundthe property into the future.
Speaking of visitors, now that you havethe history, let me discuss the logistics
and travel tips for visiting this site.
If you're flying in from another country,your best bet is to fly into Dijon
(08:19):
Bourgogne Airport, rent a car, and drive.
You can take a train from Charlesde Gaulle airport in Paris, but
it'll be three and hours eachway, whereas the Dijon airport
is about an hour and a half away.
Ride share options are less prevalentoutside of the larger cities, and
(08:39):
using taxis can be quite expensive.
Once you get to the site, toursare offered in multiple languages.
Keep in mind that the primarylanguage spoken is French.
You can purchase ticketsahead of time online as well.
Given the site gets about amillion visitors annually,
and the tours are small,
(09:01):
booking in advance will ensureyou can get the day you want.
There is parking if you drive as well.
It's typically recommended to planone and a half to three hours.
The church has so much detail that you'llwant to spend some time really digging
in and likely taking numerous photos.
This is just another reasona tour would be wise.
(09:24):
Your guide will likely be an expertwho will really dive into the
story behind what you are seeing.
For example, an area locatedabove the doorway is carved with a
depiction of the first crusade and thePentecostal mission of the apostles.
That being said, historians stillargue about what story this masterpiece
(09:50):
is trying to tell to this day.
You also can view relics of MaryMagdalene I spoke of previously.
The tours are not exorbitantly expensive
and some of them take you to whatthey call the visitor's house first,
which has a projection room whereyou can see the famous light I spoke
of before that's only visible oncertain dates within the basilica.
(10:13):
If you are trying to plan your tripbased on the weather, this area gets
a good amount of rain and rarelygets above 70 degrees Fahrenheit
even during the summer month.
If you would like to visit duringthe summer solstice, you'll have to
check your calendar and see when itfalls in the given year of your trip.
In terms of choosing where tostay, Vezelay has very few hotel or
(10:37):
restaurant options, so many choose totake a day trip from Dijon, which has
a wider variety of hotels, bed andbreakfasts and homes stay options.
And a question I get frequentlyis so Dijon as in the mustard?
And the answer is yes.
Dijon mustard originated in Dijon, France.
(11:00):
Outside of condiments, Dijon offersnumerous museums and a botanic garden
you can enjoy while visiting as well.
You also may want to see the well ofMoses, an incredible gothic sculpture
that's truly moving in, very photogenic.
Circling back to the cuisine,you need to experience the food.
(11:22):
Especially if you have an appreciationfor the finer tastes in life.
There are so many foods Iwould encourage you to try, but
escargot is definitely a standout.
It's been a delicacy inFrance for centuries.
Escargot are snails cooked often ina rich butter sauce, usually with
(11:44):
garlic and sometimes breadcrumbs.
It's typically eaten with a twoor three-pronged fork, allowing
you to truly savor each bite.
Before you turn your nose up atit, I urge you to be open-minded.
While the texture can be a bit offputting for some, it really is delicious.
(12:05):
It's actually one of my favorite foods.
So whether you enjoy architecture,art, or want to pilgrimage to a place
of spiritual significance, Vezelay'sextraordinary influence in medieval
Christianity and its outstandingRomanesque design continues to inspire
awe and is a must for any world traveler.
(12:29):
Join us for our next episode,the finale for season two.
Virunga National Park, which wasAfrica's first national park.
Located in the Democratic Republic of theCongo, its home to two active volcanoes
and the endangered mountain gorilla.
Until then, keep exploring,keep wondering, and keep
(12:54):
treasuring the remarkablediversity of our world's heritage
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