Episode Transcript
Available transcripts are automatically generated. Complete accuracy is not guaranteed.
Speaker 1 (00:19):
Welcome to Fashion Reverie Talks. I'm Tiana Ibrahimovic.
Speaker 2 (00:23):
And I'm Christopher Fraiser filling in priciless Lee Daniels.
Speaker 1 (00:27):
Fashion Reverie takes you from the front lines of fashion
to the front row.
Speaker 2 (00:32):
All Fashion Reverie segments are based on published articles found
on Fashion referee dot com.
Speaker 1 (00:37):
So remember, if you want more information on the segments,
go to Fashion reverie dot com. And if you like
this episode, don't forget to subscribe and hit the like
button of this episode on YouTube.
Speaker 2 (00:50):
In our first episode of the season, we're happy to
have fashion designer Roberto Silva and the editor in chief
William Gooch of Fashion Reveree talking about your fashion week
Spring twenty two sixth season. But first let's start with
fashion use and remember I'll bring you segments are based
on fashion use alerts found on Fashion referee dot com. Gianna,
it's so good to be back, So I'm gonna let
(01:12):
you start with her first fashion use alert.
Speaker 1 (01:15):
Good to be back, good to see you and our viewers.
So we will start with the mix of fashion and economy.
Let's put it that way. So a lot of brands
internationally are concerned about President Trump's tariffs and the so
(01:38):
called tariff wars. So if you are an international brand
from Europe, you are experiencing increased prices, and you know,
it depends how you take it. Some are taking it
as fun. So one of the brands that we're all
(01:59):
pretty familiar with because it's an old Swiss watch retailer, Swatch.
We all had a Swatch at some point, I'm sure,
so they are sort of having fun with the tariffs
topic and they're actually trying to make it work for themselves,
(02:21):
at least, you know, for those that are in Europe.
So if there is a thirty nine percent tariff tax
on Switzerland, Swatch has created, you know, the watch what
if tariffs. So the watch recently went on sale and
(02:44):
it's only available in Switzerland, so it's retails for one
hundred and seventy five dollars and you need to go
to Switzerland to purchase this Swatch watch. So it will
only be sold for short period of time because as
soon as the terroriffs change, they will stop selling the watch.
(03:07):
So that's via the spokesperson of Swatch.
Speaker 2 (03:14):
And in more designer appointment news, which seems to be
endless lately, Jaden Smith, actor and son of Will Smith,
has a new fashion design job. He's going to be
the menswear creative director for Christianne Lubit's on. Yeah, this
is surprised a lot of people given that he has
(03:34):
no formal design experience and this is a very big role.
But from what I understand, it's just the equivalent of
him doing a couple of capsule collections like many designer
brands do do with celebrities.
Speaker 3 (03:46):
But we'll see.
Speaker 2 (03:48):
He is very known for his own personal style when
it comes to red carpet and being very out of
the box with fashion, so maybe he does have something
to bring to the brand.
Speaker 1 (04:00):
Never know, I'm curious to see how that will look like.
Speaker 4 (04:04):
Now.
Speaker 1 (04:06):
We have, of course all heard about passing of Our Money,
a very long standing designer and a brand. But of
course the fashion goes on, and Our Money's last will
and testament have been published, so it will request that
(04:31):
the heirs to Our Money's Fashion Empire self control of
the business to one of a trio of the biggest
names in fashion and beauty, and Our Money is will.
They expressed that this company should be managed in an
(04:52):
ethical manner, with moral integrity and fairness, so that the pursuit.
This is a quote of an essential modern elegant and
an estentious style is key along with attention to innovation, excellence,
quality and product refinement. So since he had no children,
(05:19):
the multi billion eurogroup is passed through the variety of
airs and control of the business will be sold to
Luxury Giant LVMH over a period of time, Laurel and Luxotica.
So the first eighteen months the airs will sell fifteen
(05:42):
percent of the business, followed by thirty two fifty close
to fifty five percent. So we will see, you know,
after a change like this, the brands always change, style change,
so we'll see what will happen with our money. That
would be all in fashion News alert.
Speaker 2 (06:08):
September also means fashion month, of course, and among the
designers this season in York Fashion Week was Roberto Silva,
who we have joining us today on Fashion Referee Talks
to talk about his latest collection. Roberto, thank you so
much for joining us today.
Speaker 3 (06:23):
Thank you so much for having me.
Speaker 2 (06:25):
Of course, of course, so you just had your spring
Summer twenty twenty six collection debut during York Fashion Week.
Speaker 3 (06:33):
Yes, how's real? I'm sorry, can you repeat the question?
Speaker 2 (06:37):
You just had your spring Summer twenty sixth collection debut
during your fashion week. How does it feel or.
Speaker 3 (06:43):
I feels great. It feels really good.
Speaker 5 (06:45):
Actually, you know, obviously you guys know all the work
that we do before that, but when we get there,
you know, I was able to enjoy it, which is
something that hardly happens, you know, and I was able
to interact with people, and all the feedback left me
very satisfied, you know, not only the work that I did,
but the interaction with the people. What I heard from
(07:05):
from everybody, you know, I was I was very happy.
I am still very happy.
Speaker 3 (07:09):
Actually.
Speaker 2 (07:11):
So could you talk to us about your fashion journey.
Speaker 5 (07:13):
Yes, it's been quite a quite a long one. I
started in ninety four, right after college. I mean actually
studied a little before that, because you know, when you
go to college and you start interacting with all the
people that you know, our school sort of starts giving you,
you know, energy to continue to start doing more, to
start researching, to start creating. And I also have you know,
(07:34):
people from well my sisters and friends of theirs have
also design backgrounds. So it's been you know, I studied
there and then after that, after college, I had you know,
I was lucky enough to meet with.
Speaker 3 (07:47):
A lot of creatives.
Speaker 5 (07:49):
We started doing and creating do We started doing stuff
and creating our own spaces to showcase, to perform. Not
only fashion designers, but there were DJs, graphic designers, artists
in general. So we all got together, you know, to start,
you know, from scratch, and from there started to grow.
(08:09):
You know what I always say, became some sort of
like a clock kid street where let's go to party
fashion line to sort of like a minimalist focus on
classic pieces, which is what it's about, you know now.
But you know, after that, I continued working in Mexico
(08:31):
and then I emigrated to the United States, where I
first had to you know, hold a job, and I
was always working with clothing. Actually I did visual merchandising
in the store display, window display, and then when I
had the opportunity, I started working with with a sustainable
program fashion program of Pratt. And then from there, you know,
(08:53):
I mean, it's always in you you know, every time
when I was able to reconnect with us sawing machine,
I started doing stuff and he grew from you know,
a line of form louses that you can see there
somewhere there right there. So now an entire fashion line.
I mean it's you know, a small one, but you know,
(09:14):
it's been quite quite a long journey.
Speaker 2 (09:17):
So could you describe your design aesthetic for us? How
would you say?
Speaker 3 (09:22):
What would you say?
Speaker 2 (09:23):
En capulate, your encapsulate your brands, DNA.
Speaker 5 (09:26):
Well, I'm always inspired by form and function. Those are
my main things I truly believe in. And you know, functionality, durability,
and use of clothing. I totally respect people who gets
inspired by something else, but to me, you know, clothing themselves,
(09:47):
clothing that itself inspires me. And you know, as I said,
it first started, you know a little bit out there,
but now it's become much more of a minimalist, functional,
very detail oriented, very a great focus on the construction.
Speaker 3 (10:06):
Of it.
Speaker 5 (10:07):
And you know, and I've been analyzing and studying all
you know, old and newer techniques of clothing construction. So
I try to apply that because I know that that
might help the actual government to you know, to perform
its function, which is dressing us every day. But obviously
(10:29):
I like to add, you know, a bit of touch
of humor. I'm very inspired by you know, pop art music,
obviously videos because I grew up in the eighties, music
videos and art and culture in general, so little details
of that you can see here and there.
Speaker 2 (10:50):
So you're also Mexican American, and.
Speaker 3 (10:53):
I'm sorry for interrupting.
Speaker 5 (10:55):
Born in Mexico now, you know, after living in New
York for twenty plus years, probably like you could consider
myself Mexican American.
Speaker 2 (11:04):
So how would you say you inject your Mexican heritage
into your design aesthetic.
Speaker 5 (11:10):
Well, you know, I'm very inspired by handwork, you know,
hand bleeding, hand embroidery, even the use of you know,
natural textiles and and what you have around on hand
to create something. And I can see in a way
that sort of relates to the work of indigenous people
(11:30):
and how they create their their garments, their outfits, even
if it's something that is very very close to their
culture or even you know now after the colonization, for
like they're they're every day where you know, like, for instance,
the bleading that I used in this season is very
inspired by all the outfits of this state called Wahaka.
Speaker 3 (11:50):
And these ladies do the pleading by hand.
Speaker 5 (11:53):
They don't use chemicals and perhaps they might use an iron,
but you know, they gathered by hand. They embroidered by hand.
They put the pieces together by hand, and that's what
we try to do because not all not only because
I'm very inspired by that, I also feel like that's
kind of like our little participation in sustainability, you know,
(12:17):
trying to recreate or or enhance handwork, to me is
very sustainable.
Speaker 2 (12:26):
So what were some of the other inspirations for your
Spring twenty twenty six collection.
Speaker 5 (12:31):
Well, you know, as I said, I'm very inspired by
pop culture, and I think that you know, the trucker jacket,
you know, popularized by by Levi's It was something that
I always loved, you know, and it's if you look
at it is now now it's a fashion piece, right,
it's being interpreted by several designers you know, throughout that
(12:51):
least for the past thirty years. But you know that
also comes from that's working gear. Those are working clothes,
you know. That's then started because it was durable, because
it was resistant, you know, and and in a way
accessible to everybody because it's cotton. But the twill, the
twill with is something that has always been very durable
(13:13):
and also gives the garment, you know, its own shape
without all the underpinions and all that. So I have
this little jacket that my mother bought for me, my
first Levi Levi's jacket, and it's a trocker jacket, right
that is actually being used by everybody after me, my nephews,
my cousins. So that gave me the idea that I
(13:35):
always wanted to interpret or continue interpreting a piece of
pop culture adapted to you know, daywear or every daywear
or even nightwear. Right, So that's what we did this time.
We sort of like work with that little scots and
the seams that actually can help you to create a
(13:56):
very nice body shape, right or also you can hide
the pockets or you know, all those seams were made
to make the jacket you know, more sturdy, you know,
make it more durable, more resistant. But now we use it,
as you know fashion gods, to try to create a
nice shape either it's hour glass or are very fitted
(14:17):
or very smooth over the body.
Speaker 3 (14:20):
So that's what I wanted to do.
Speaker 5 (14:21):
So with the draping of my own version of that jacket,
we were able to get you know, what we call
very nice, very pleasant and soft lines and pieces that
you know, thanks to the fig feedback that all of
you kindly gave me.
Speaker 3 (14:40):
It seems like it's working.
Speaker 5 (14:41):
For you know, for a lot of for a lot
of the bodies that we we tried it on.
Speaker 2 (14:46):
So, going off the trucker jacket, there was a lot
of denim in your collection this season. Could you tell
us about that.
Speaker 5 (14:52):
Yeah, well, you know, I love that and it's also
you know, as I said before, because it's durable because
of the the weave is you know, distant is cotton.
It is something that you know, you can actually I
mean relate more because it's a natural fiber, right.
Speaker 3 (15:07):
And I love the indigo colors. I love neutral colors.
I love blue.
Speaker 5 (15:12):
So I think like then in for me, which is
something that is so you know, as I wouldn't say normal,
but it's like something that we see every day everywhere
and we use it all the time.
Speaker 3 (15:26):
I think it was.
Speaker 5 (15:26):
Kind of like a challenge to try to interpret that
and come up with something exciting about our everyday pieces,
which is something that in a way is sort of
like what I would call my philosophy. You know, I'm
I'm very spired as I said, for by every day
were So the trucker jacket and dennim is something that
(15:47):
we see every day, So it was kind of like
a challenge, which I you know, I actually you know,
came out very satisfied of.
Speaker 2 (15:55):
Well, thank you so much for your time today for Berger.
So it was a fabulous collection. Glad I got the proper.
Speaker 5 (16:01):
No, I was very happy to see you and to
meet you, to meet all of you with you know,
we were and it's called obviously you know, we're very
very well connected by ideas and energy, so I mean,
I couldn't you know, ask for a better audience.
Speaker 2 (16:16):
Well, we were all so happy to be there and
until next season, maybe even sooner.
Speaker 5 (16:21):
Maybe even somewheer, we don't know, but you know, until
next season, and we already have some ideas, so you know,
little by little, I think that's the key. And enjoying it,
which is something that I did very much this time.
So hopefully we can you know, continue with the energy
and recreate that kind of a feeling, which is to me,
is what makes it worth it.
Speaker 2 (16:41):
Well, we'll definitely be excited to see what you do next.
Speaker 3 (16:45):
Thank you so much.
Speaker 1 (16:49):
Happy to have our editor in chief William Gooche with
us today for the first episode of the season, and
we are talking about New York fashion Week that just ended. William,
Welcome to Fashion Reverie Talks.
Speaker 6 (17:09):
It's good to be back after fashion week, which you know,
we always need a little rest after fashion week because
it's so hectic, and particularly hectic with not US fashion
Week not really having a central location. So it's nice
that we had a little bit of rest and we
can really dig in and talk about some great collections
(17:30):
that we saw.
Speaker 1 (17:32):
So what is your overall thought of the New York
Fashion Week for Spring twenty twenty six season.
Speaker 6 (17:41):
Well, we did see some really great fashion, and we'll
go into that a little bit later. So the aesthetic
of creating great spring summer clothes because you know, as
we all know, what we see in September, our collections
that will debut in stores and campaigns will debut in
the spring. So fashion Week for the fall, when we
(18:02):
see it in September, we're really seeing spring fashion.
Speaker 4 (18:05):
So we're kind of six months ahead.
Speaker 6 (18:07):
So for those industry professionals, it gives us a little
peek into what the trends are going to be for
the season, how designers are looking at satisfying, satisfying their
customer's fashion palettes. So it's very interesting to see where
the industry is going, and there is a real direction
of shift that we see. But so that was wonderful.
(18:33):
New York Men's Day, which it starts on the first
day of Fashion Week, moved to the Mercedes Benz Venue,
the car Big Showroom, and that's where they had their
men's collections, which they show four in the morning for in.
Speaker 4 (18:47):
The evening, and it was interesting.
Speaker 6 (18:49):
I liked the old venue better because you know, you're
kind of situated between these luxury cars and showing men's
were fashion and it was kind of hard, particularly the recession,
to tell the collections from the people in the audio
from the people at the show, which kind of over
a lot of them overdress, so it was like, what
(19:10):
is the collection, what is the actual people? Kind of
hard trying to figure out what was what. But overall,
it was a decent season. I don't want to say
it was a great season. Things still persist that the
CFDA and the powers they really need to work on.
It's still way too much running all over the city,
(19:32):
which gets to be very expensive because we really don't
have a central location anymore, so that really needs to
be figured out. Additionally, I mean, I'm sorry to say this,
and I guess it's a little bit of sour grapes.
But we're seeing fewer and fewer real fashion industry professionals
at the shows and the invasion of social media influencers,
(19:56):
which now are the main group of people that go
to the shows, that has really diminished the role.
Speaker 4 (20:02):
Of industry professionals.
Speaker 6 (20:03):
And it's just a little bit too much of them
at the shows and not enough of us fashion industry professionals.
And unfortunately, you know a lot of times they stay
around for one or two seasons and they're gone, So
it's a revolving door of influencers, but they have really
eased out the industry professionals and we still have a
(20:27):
lot of importance in this industry. So the powers that be,
the fashion pr firms, the CFTA, they really need to
work on bringing the industry professionals.
Speaker 4 (20:38):
Back and just a central location. So that's my assessment.
Speaker 1 (20:45):
Now, did you have a favorite show?
Speaker 6 (20:49):
Absolutely, Cynthia Rowley, no doubt. And Gianna we were there together.
We were sitting where we're sitting. We were kind of
sitting together. We were sitting together. What am I talking about?
We were sitting right next to you. What am I
talking about and it was so much fun. It was
(21:10):
a great show. Little industry gossip Supposedly this is her
last Runway show, and I hope him pray it's not,
because she always puts on a great show. She knows
how to put on a show. This was her one
hundredth and first show, and her daughter debuted her Runway
(21:36):
presence walking in the show, her daughter kid And the
show was at Robert Wagner Park, which is a great
gorgeous outside park downtown Manhattan and Battery Place, and you
could look into the Hudson River and she had.
Speaker 4 (21:56):
Boats in the river with her low go on the sales.
Speaker 6 (22:02):
So it was just an incredible collection, a little bit
of a nautical vibe in some of the pieces. But
the thing about Cynthia Rowley that is so fabulous is
she knows how to dress women of a variety of ages.
Speaker 4 (22:20):
So whether you are a late teen, or you are
a what is it, what is it?
Speaker 6 (22:27):
Gen z ask Y, whatever it is now, or you
are a woman of a certain age, there was something
in that collection for every woman and for a lot
of different body types as well. Just great looks that
you can wear at every juncture of your day. From
morning to going out to brunch or lunch with friends,
(22:50):
to go into the opera, to go into a really
fancy event. There was something in there for everybody. Nothing
beats a design her that knows her audience, and Cynthia
Rally has been doing this long enough to really.
Speaker 4 (23:06):
Know her audience.
Speaker 6 (23:07):
And she did what so many designers sometimes failed to do.
There was a lot of now, right now in the collection,
and there was a little bit of next. So you
have to give that little teaser to your consumer, letting
them know this is coming next. Let me show it
to you, and you decide if you want to embrace it.
(23:28):
And that's what she did. Great show, great venue, just fun, fun, fun.
We had the best time because see I was sitting
next to you. We were laughing and talking and having
so much fun. So great show, Number one, best show
Cynthia Rowley.
Speaker 1 (23:44):
For me, it was very fun to attend. But now,
besides New York, you did the venture out to Baltimore too,
and you went.
Speaker 4 (23:55):
Yes, yes, want to be marthy Well, thank you.
Speaker 6 (23:59):
One of our Fashion Raverie favorites, Bishmi Cromarty, who was
a Winter Project Runaway All Star season twenty. He was
invited to show in his hometown of Baltimore, and his
whole show was sponsored by under Armour, which you know
they're based out of Baltimore. So I went down and
(24:20):
took the Amtrak down with such a great ride. Didn't
take as long as I thought it would, and he
had a great show, great venue, doing what we love
about bish me mixing the masculine and feminine, the hard
and the soft. There was a lot of neutral tones.
But let me tell you what I loved most about
this show. He had two plus size models, quite tall,
(24:44):
one of them I think was six to two larger
models plus size, probably sizes fourteen or sixteen, And he
knew how to put clothes on their beautiful, voluptuous zoptic
frame to make those women in those models and that
can project to larger women want of ice clothes that
are larger, that showed off their assets in a beautiful, sumptuous, luxury,
(25:11):
luxury way without looking cheap and tacky. He knows how
to design for a woman of a larger frame, and
they tore that runway up. They were absolutely the best
models in the show were the plus sized models he
had too, And it was just a great show, great separate,
(25:33):
great cropped moto jackets, great crop top shirts, great asymmetrical skirts.
Just a great piece for that consumer that wants to
be noticed. Sorry, it was just a wonderful show. So
(25:59):
loved it, loved it, loved it. Bravo, bravo, bravo to Bishmi.
Speaker 1 (26:04):
Okay, it was worth the trip.
Speaker 4 (26:06):
Looks like it was worth the trip.
Speaker 1 (26:09):
And could you talk about the whole New York City
Spring twenty twenty sixth collection.
Speaker 6 (26:16):
This was a very fun, joyful, thank god, joy we
need it in these times, joyful men's wear collection. Now,
this was not their debut collection. They've showed it in
New York FASHIONINGK a couple of times, and they've showed
in New York Men's Day, which is a part of
New York Fashion Week. And it was a wonderful collection.
(26:40):
And what the designer said was the great director of
the show, I can't remember his name, but he said
he really wanted to make this a queer infused collection.
Now I didn't know that until I read the notes,
because you know, now days, everything is so blended.
Speaker 4 (27:01):
I mean, what is what is queer infused? What is
you know? You really everything is all mixed together.
Speaker 6 (27:09):
In the modern times that we live, you can't really
pinpoint a particularly inspiration. But it was a wonderful collection.
Great pieces for men, A small collection about fourteen pieces
that dresses your guy or yourself and at almost every
juncture of your day.
Speaker 4 (27:27):
That was even swimwear in the collection, just wonderful colors.
That was a beautiful gold trench coat.
Speaker 6 (27:34):
That was just to die for. And it was a wonderful,
wonderful collection. The only drawback that I'm gonna have to
say this, I probably will get myself in some trouble.
There was a four flight walk up to get to
that show, and you know I'm of a certain age,
so people were just passing me walking up the stairs
(27:55):
while I was huffing at puffing and leaning on.
Speaker 4 (27:58):
The railholes trying to get my bread to get to
the show.
Speaker 6 (28:02):
I tell you here was a challenge to walk up
those four flights, I mean long flights upstairs to get
to the collection. But thank god, when we got there
they gave us some champagne.
Speaker 4 (28:15):
I was like, okay, it was worth it. But it
was a great show, a great show.
Speaker 6 (28:22):
A little a little avationally, so spirits can solve a
whole lot of problems.
Speaker 1 (28:28):
Absolutely that's good something to wait for you on top.
Speaker 6 (28:37):
Yes.
Speaker 1 (28:39):
So lastly, speaking of queer infused and mix of styles,
it looks like one of the men's trends is skirts.
Speaker 4 (28:53):
Yes, the man skirt is back. Now.
Speaker 6 (28:56):
We know this trend goes back to the punk era
of the late seventies and the early eighties. Were men
really that came out of, you know, the whole anti
government punk revolution in London and we were seeing men
in kind of kilts, plaid skirts.
Speaker 4 (29:16):
There was a whole part of that movement.
Speaker 6 (29:17):
And then it keeps popping up every five or six years,
the skirts come back. This time it was a little
different because this is the first time, to my memory,
I saw men's skirts as hip hop street wear. So
there were brands that typically focus on a streetwear vibe,
a hip hop vibe, and they had menskirts. Particularly a
(29:41):
new brand that I'm not defamiliar with about it was
that their show called Public Serve c serv hyphen Ce,
a wonderful, wonderful brand that really really has centered in
on what a lot of young people want to wear
right now, very very street where focused and it was
(30:03):
paired in a streetwear hip hop way I haven't quite
seen that a lot, So I saw a lot of
men's skirts in collections, particularly in New York Men's Day.
Joseph McCrae had a couple in his collection, So it's
on its way back. And there were consumers people at
(30:24):
the show, fashion indush professionals. They had on man skirts,
So it is on its way back. And it's not
just gender bending or being influenced by the feminine. It
has taken on a whole masculine patina, a whole masculine persona,
(30:46):
and I love it.
Speaker 4 (30:48):
I love it. I mean why not.
Speaker 6 (30:49):
You know, you can express your masculinity in a whole
lot of different ways now, and we're in a world
now where people do it and they're free to do it.
Speaker 4 (30:56):
Bravo.
Speaker 1 (31:02):
I would say, maybe not for the straight woman, but okay,
I don't know how I will.
Speaker 6 (31:11):
Maybe you need maybe you need to see a little
bit more Tiana and get used to it.
Speaker 4 (31:16):
Maybe you need to see it a little bit more
and get used to maybe.
Speaker 1 (31:19):
Yes, we do get used to a lot of things.
So thank you. This was really fun talking to you
about New York Fashion Week and all the latest trends
and happenings. It is always good to have you are
editor in chief, mister William Gooch.
Speaker 6 (31:39):
Great seeing you as if your rally where we were
chilling and hanging out because I hadn't seen you since
the end of our last season because I know you
were in Europe for most of the summer, so it
was just great to see you and hang out with
you as always, such a fun person to hang out with.
Speaker 4 (31:54):
Everybody.
Speaker 1 (31:55):
Tianna feeling the same, well, beewers.
Speaker 2 (32:01):
That's it for the first episode of season seven of
Fashion Reverie Talks. Chian I'm so glad I got to
be back here with you today.
Speaker 1 (32:09):
I am glad to be back with you Christopher as well,
and I would also like to thank Robert to Silva
and William Gooch for appearing on Fashion Reverie Talks.
Speaker 2 (32:20):
For more information on these and other stories, go to
Fashion revery dot com. Don't forget to hit the like
and subscribe button. Thanks for watching, see you all soon.
Speaker 3 (33:00):
The few things