September 17, 2024 • 37 mins
In this episode we are happy to have Fashion Reverie associate editor Kristopher Fraser who will discuss some of his favorites shows from New York Fashion Week. We are also joined by Fashion Reverie editor-in-chief who will talk about the state of New York Fashion Week.
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Episode Transcript
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Speaker 1 (00:21):
Welcome to Fashion Reverie Talks. I am Tiana Ibrahimovitch.
Speaker 2 (00:26):
I am William Gooch filling in for Cicely Daniels.
Speaker 1 (00:31):
Fashion Reverie takes you from the front lines of fashion
to the front row.
Speaker 2 (00:36):
All of our Fashion Reverie Talk segments are based on
pobused content found on Fashion reverie dot com.
Speaker 1 (00:43):
So remember, if you want more information on the segments,
go to fashion reverie dot com and to like these episodes,
go to YouTube and subscribe.
Speaker 2 (00:55):
In this episode, we're happy to have Fashion Reverie Associate
editor Chris Fraser, who will discuss some of his favorite
shows from New York Fashion Week and I will also
talk about my experience with New York Fashion Week. So
let's start with all with fashion news. All of our
news segments are based on the fashion news alerts found
(01:18):
on Fashion reverie dot com.
Speaker 1 (01:20):
Okay, let's jump into the current events in fashion. I'm
going to start off at Margarobi's new job. So Chanelle
number five has a not so new celebrity face, Margarobi.
She has been their brand ambassador for Chanelle Number five
since twenty eighteen, but she will currently be representing the.
Speaker 3 (01:45):
New iconic fragrance.
Speaker 1 (01:48):
So she is ideal for this job because we all
see her as this icon of femininity and especially of
someone that you do want to know what sense she's using.
So she will kick off the latest fragrance just in
time for the holiday holiday season in October. So the
(02:12):
first campaign will be featuring her and it will hit
the markets in October.
Speaker 2 (02:19):
So, Tiana, do you think she's going to bring a
little bit of that Barbie magic to this new role
as the face of Chanelle. I don't know if Barbie
and Chanelle go together, but what do you think?
Speaker 4 (02:30):
Yeah?
Speaker 3 (02:31):
I think so.
Speaker 1 (02:32):
I mean both are kind of staples of femininity and
you know, fashion and fashion forwardness, so I think it's
it's good.
Speaker 3 (02:42):
It's a good combo.
Speaker 2 (02:44):
Well, we have some unfortunate news. Peter and Nigard, you know,
the big fashion mogul, Canadian fashion mogul, has been sentenced
to eleven years in prison for sexual assault against four
women and one young girl. Nightguard could be released early
because he's kind of served some time in his pre
(03:06):
trial custody, so he may get four years taken off
of his his sentencing, but that's yet to be known,
and it's such a tragedy because you know, Peter Nightguard
is eighty three years old. People, you know, in investigative
teens have been after him for about fifteen years for
(03:27):
these for at that time alleged sexual modistation. But they
finally did catch him and sentence him. And you know,
Ontario Superior Court Justice Robert Goldstein said that Nightguard was
a Canadian success story gone very wrong, and that he
(03:50):
used his power and wealth to lure young women into
doing into becoming his victims. And it's very sad. You know,
some of these assaults go back all the way back
to nineteen eighty eight up until two thousand and five,
and he would lure young girls and women to his
(04:11):
home in promise of a modeling career or some type
of opportunities in fashion, and when they wouldn't really submit
on their own to his sexual advances, he would drug there.
So this is a really, really, really big tragedy. And
you know, the man is worth about six hundred and
twenty million dollars at one time he was worth their amount,
(04:33):
and he had one hundred and seventy namesake stores in
the US and Canada, So it's all kind of come
crumbling down. So here we are yet another sexual assault scandal.
What do you think, Tianna.
Speaker 1 (04:52):
I mean, he's spent eighty years enjoying himself, so.
Speaker 2 (04:57):
Wow, if you want to call that enjoying himself, well that's.
Speaker 3 (05:01):
What I mean. Like he was doing whatever he wanted.
Speaker 1 (05:04):
It took a really long time to punish him for
his crimes. Imagine how many victims that is.
Speaker 2 (05:13):
Yeah, you know, and you know, he really was a
high profile fashion guy. You know, there was a nightguard
store right off of Times Square at one time in
New York City, and he was known for hanging out
with politicians and celebrities. He even was a friend to
Queen Elizabeth a second He's to have dinners with her
(05:34):
and being honored by her. So it's a real, real
kind of operatic level downfall, you know. Yeah, his achilles
heel is that he couldn't keep his hand off of
young women.
Speaker 3 (05:55):
In any way he could.
Speaker 1 (05:57):
Yes, well we do have a little bit more of
a positive, uh.
Speaker 4 (06:04):
So.
Speaker 1 (06:05):
Macy's is attempting to reimagine its private brands and its
new men squear brand. Mode of One includes everyday essentials
and statement designs created with a focus on fits and proportions.
So the collection is inspired by sports, music, technology, and
(06:30):
street style. And for this few collection, Macy's collaborated with
graphic designer Tyrrell Waiters and Uigi Theodore, the founder of
the Brooklyn Circus and theater style. This inaugural collection, More
(06:50):
of Once features over one hundred and forty items. It
includes hooties, graphic teas, cargo pans, and prices range from
about twenty five dollars to one hundred and fifty ish
dollars and all kinds of sizes, so there's a little
(07:11):
bit of something for everyone. And so More of One,
according to senior or vice president and head of Private
Brands at Macy's, represents their commitment to offering contemporary manswuere
that celebrates the individuality of a modern man.
Speaker 2 (07:33):
You know, Tianna. Macy's really has a huge array of
what we used to call private labeling, where they would
have their own brands and be designed by individual designers,
and so this is just another addition of that. And
it's very affordable, which makes it accessible to a lot
(07:54):
of people. I looked at some of the pieces, they're
actually quite nice, and you know, the collection is kind
of inspired by streetwear, technology, music, and I think it's
going to be a big hit for young consumers. Some
of the pieces are a little out of my age demographic,
(08:14):
but you know, since I do love Macy's, I'm going
to go there and buy something that's good. Okay, everyone,
this is the end of our fashion news segment, and
remember if you want more information about these segments, go
to fashion wherevery dot com. Well, welcome back viewers. Now
(08:39):
we are joined by our associate fashion editor, Christopher Frasier.
Speaker 4 (08:44):
Hey Chris, hey, coach.
Speaker 2 (08:46):
Now, christ we know you are the man about town
when it comes to New York Fashion Week. You get
more invitations than your boss to show. But we want
to talk about your impression New York Fashion Week, our
spring twenty twenty five season, which just ended this past Wednesday.
So just give us a very brief general opinion of
(09:09):
New York Fashion Week.
Speaker 5 (09:11):
You know, this week, this season, New York Fashion Week glossom,
it's central venue. But I think that I actually left
designers a lot more room to play with their visions
of what they wanted, with their ability to select their
own space. New York Fashion t Week has been getting
a lot of criticism. If it still has the same
blair at you too, But you saw a lot of
designers doing a lot of really great things. Tommy Hill
(09:33):
Figure had to show on the Staten Island Ferry, Frederick
Anderson rented like the Opera House in Midtown for his
runaway shows. And these designers were doing great shows. So,
you know, I think New York Fashion Week this season
really did its best to reject that label of oh
we're over Yeah.
Speaker 2 (09:52):
Now we say when you say they lost their venue,
you're talking about Springs Studios. Correct.
Speaker 5 (09:57):
Well, last season, as of last February, they were supposed
to be a new central venue star at Lady the
Studios there.
Speaker 2 (10:04):
Oh but hearing late Lehigh right, yeah, but the invin
you didn't work out that well.
Speaker 4 (10:09):
That venue did not work out that well.
Speaker 5 (10:11):
And you know what, people were not even sad about
it because it was just so far away from anything everything.
So even though there was a oh like, we missed
the convenience of the central venue, the one they tried
to give us was not that convenient. People were really
happier running around town for runway shows being stuck over there.
Speaker 2 (10:32):
Right, that's true. So Christopher, let's start with one of
Fashion Rivery's favorites. Frederick Anderson. Let's start with him beause
I knew you went to your show. I want your opinion.
You know, me and Freddy have a long history. We're
both from North Carolina, and I've known Freddy since he
was sixteen. Can you believe it?
Speaker 4 (10:52):
Weren't you guys dancers together?
Speaker 2 (10:54):
We were in a regional Well, most people don't know
my little background. I was a vallet dancer prior to
working in fashion, and me and Freddie were in a
small civic ballet company in North Carolina. I was a
little bit older than he was, but he was sixteen.
So I've known him for a really long time, and
we kind of re acquainted ourselves with each other in
(11:16):
New York, and both of us had left the dance
world and he was working as a designer and I
was working as a fashion editor. So we have a
long history. So I love his shows. I went last
February to show, and every season I think it gets
a little bit better, and he gets a little bit
more focused and his collection is a little bit more cohesive.
But that's just, you know, the big boss's opinion. So
(11:40):
I want your opinion, Christmer, this is about you.
Speaker 5 (11:44):
I saw Frederick after his show and I told him
that this was his absolute best collection to date and
he said he felt the same way about it too.
And one thing I really like about Frederick and his
approach to design is and you see it when you're
at his shows with his audience, he really understands his consumer.
They're the girls on the Upper east Side, they're the
girls in the Hamptons, they're the girls going to travel
(12:06):
to resorts in the summer. They're in Santropei, they're in
Saint Barts. He knows what those girls want and he
understands how they dress, and it really reflects in his clothes.
And this year, I know he's been focusing a lot
more on growing his retail presence. He has picked up
Sex with Avenue as a partner. He's opened his own
brick and mortar store. And with that elevation of his
(12:26):
approach to business, you also see that elevation and his
approach to design. Silhouettes were tighter, silhouettes were cleaner, fabrics
were more elevated, and things like that in terms of,
you know, trying to take his brand to that next level.
Speaker 2 (12:42):
And what was the inspiration or theme of this collection?
Speaker 4 (12:46):
It seemed like he was going for with spring summer.
Speaker 5 (12:48):
It seemed like he was going for really thinking about
that girl that's jet setting, like she going to be
next Like she it's that kind of girl that will
dress up to get on the plane and then she's
she's going to need her change of clothes for the
Michelin Star restaurant she's going to. Then she's going to
need her next change of clothes for the ballroom at
(13:10):
the resort that night.
Speaker 2 (13:11):
So in a way, he dressed her at every juncture
of her day.
Speaker 4 (13:15):
Yes, he was. It's really wardrobe styling.
Speaker 2 (13:18):
Right, So it's a life to me. His clothes look
like a lifestyle absolutely collection like what Ralph Lauren does
so beautifully and consistently. He is developing into a lifestyle brand.
Do you do you agree to disagree?
Speaker 5 (13:36):
One hundred percent agree because these girls he have, he
has his customers, they are living that life right like
some of them have private jets, some of them have
second homes, and some of them have some of them
may even be as wealthy to have private islands. They're
their jets setting off to the Mediterranean. They're at the
Amalfi coast.
Speaker 2 (13:57):
So would you say This is the update aid version
of the Ladies who Lunch. But they don't just launch
in New York. They launch all over the world.
Speaker 5 (14:06):
Oh, they're all over the world, honey, They're They're sipping
there Li Minchello in the Amalfi Coast. They're with their
Marco Ritaz in Saint Bart's yacht in Santrope.
Speaker 6 (14:19):
Must be nice, yes, it must be nice. Okay, let's
go to Cousto Barcelona. One of my favorite brands and
a show that I usually attend. I didn't go this season,
but I usually attend every season, and I just love
what Dalmo Cousto has been doing for so long. So okay,
(14:43):
take it away, Christopher Cousto Barcelona.
Speaker 4 (14:46):
What ahead of the show.
Speaker 5 (14:47):
One of the things I've been seeing a lot in
the fashion media sphere and hearing other editors in Silas
talk about is the return of Boho chic for those
fans of Rachel Zoe and remember the Rachel Zoe Project era.
That was how she always described her whole style, the
whole Boho Sheik aesthetic, like taking the bohemian and trying
to elevate it, making it very Orange County, making it
(15:09):
very West Village. You saw a lot of that with
Gusto Barcelona's collection this season.
Speaker 4 (15:15):
Then it still had that very much.
Speaker 5 (15:17):
That brand DNA of the creative and the culpful and
the patterns, And I think this could be potentially a
really strong retail moment for the brand with the.
Speaker 2 (15:25):
Bohoji, which they need because you know, they've been in
competition forever with Desie Wall, Dissi Wall right right, and
Disney Wall stole a lot of their thunder six seven
years ago and kind of has continued on their trajectory.
So you think this is maybe another shining moment for them.
Speaker 4 (15:46):
Absolutely, I think it could be.
Speaker 5 (15:47):
With so many celebrities hopping on the Boho she trend
right now too.
Speaker 4 (15:51):
You see Gigi Hidi doing it, You see Belaha Behidi
doing it.
Speaker 5 (15:56):
You see Julia Fox doing it when she isn't in
one of her crazy off on card style outfits boo,
she's toned down for her. But with a lot of
the it girls hopping on the Boho sheet trend and
that aesthetic having such a moment right now, this was
the perfect timing for that collection. If they're trying to
(16:17):
get customers back on board that they may that they
may have lost to other brands or people that used
to shop them back in the day that may have
just not been shopping them as much lately.
Speaker 2 (16:29):
And I went to opinion, Christopher, when I looked at
the collection. You know, Crustal Barcelonia was known for putting
crazy colors and patterns together and a lot of bowl colors,
and sometimes the bowl colors didn't necessarily mesh or go
well together. But this collection looked a little bit more
cohesive and toned down with the colors. You know, there
(16:51):
were a lot more neutral tones in this collection. What
is your opinion, Christopher, that's my opinion, what's yours?
Speaker 4 (16:58):
I think as he's looking for more sellability, he found value.
Speaker 5 (17:03):
Yes, he's found that balance between you know, still having
a lot of the color, but maybe toning it down
by putting it on a.
Speaker 4 (17:10):
More neutral palette.
Speaker 5 (17:12):
So it's a little bit more approachable for your average shopper,
but it still has that brand DNA, because you know,
he's not sending he's not doing quiet luxury.
Speaker 4 (17:20):
That's not his approach to things.
Speaker 5 (17:22):
So even though it's a little even though he's like
toned it down a little bit, it still very much
has that Cousto Barcelona fair flair like. It might be
a white dress but it still has tons of colorful trim.
It might be a white T shirt but it has
a bold graphic on it.
Speaker 2 (17:37):
Okay, great, now, Christopher, Let's talk about this brand that
you introduced me to that I had never heard of,
and I might be pronouncing it wrong, so help me.
Speaker 4 (17:48):
Bad beach tong tong, Yeah, bad bench tongtong.
Speaker 2 (17:53):
Okay, all right, all right, see that again.
Speaker 4 (17:55):
Bad bench tongtong bench b I n h.
Speaker 2 (17:58):
Right. And when I looked at your article and I
looked at some of the images, very architectural, very sculptural,
very I don't want to call it avant garde, but
definitely very much described next, definitely next, So.
Speaker 5 (18:19):
You take it, christ So the designer turns down actually
very much describes the brand as avant guarde. Actually, his
whole approach to things is he's very much inspired by
the extra terrestrial. So he's like trying to think of
how aliens that would shop Catoure if they got to Earth,
what they would wear, which I know sounds so out there,
(18:42):
but he.
Speaker 4 (18:44):
Very much embraces the avant guard for him.
Speaker 5 (18:46):
Right now, at least things aren't so much as about retail.
He's still trying to treat this as more of like
an art meets fashion situation. So there's a lot of
very architectural structured gown and see the first two looks
when the show started were these women in like these
like cat suits in case in these giant gowns that
(19:09):
looked like oversized tulips and be able to show it
to church, and it.
Speaker 4 (19:14):
Had a very richalistic aspect to it.
Speaker 5 (19:16):
But the music and everything and like the sort of
like interpretive dance, it almost seemed like he was doing
a device theater piece in combination with the runaway show, so.
Speaker 2 (19:27):
It almost was like performance art in a sense.
Speaker 4 (19:29):
Yeah, very much.
Speaker 2 (19:30):
So okay, okay, now you know, William Gooch loved anything
that has some theater and performance to it, so I
wish I'd had the opportunity to go to the show. Well, Christopher,
thank you so much for your review, for your really
studied opinion, and we can't and viewers please go to
(19:50):
fashion for every dot com to get more detail about
these designers and read more of Christopher's reviews.
Speaker 4 (19:56):
Thank you, Christopher, You're welcome, coach.
Speaker 1 (20:03):
So today we have a special honor to have our
editor in chief William Gooch discuss the latest season of
New York Fashion Week.
Speaker 3 (20:13):
So welcome mister Gooch to box.
Speaker 2 (20:19):
Well, I've been doing double duty today because unfortunately our
wonderful co host Sisanly Daniels could not be for our
first season back. And for those I think we need
to share, I think we should share with our viewers.
Tianna Sisterly's in a Broadway show, once Upon the revival
of Once Upon a Mattress, And she's in the cast
(20:43):
of that, which is an ongoing Broadway show right now,
and she's in that cast and she's understudying one of
the leads. So we're so proud of her and we're
so happy that she is in Once Upon a Mattress.
And for those who don't remember, Sah Jessica Parker was
in the nineteen ninety nine revival, so the show is
(21:04):
backstarring Son Foster, who I love. So unfortunately, Sincely couldn't
be here today, so I'm doing double duty. I'm doing
the best I can.
Speaker 4 (21:12):
I hope I'm not doing so bad.
Speaker 3 (21:13):
I think you're doing great.
Speaker 1 (21:17):
Who's a better person than you to talk about New
York Fashion Week?
Speaker 3 (21:22):
Besides the Frasier.
Speaker 2 (21:25):
Yes, well, Christopher did a great job, you know. Okay,
now let's talk about New York Fashion Week. What is
the state of New York Fashion Week? So there's been
so many articles about New York Fashion Week, how it
isn't like it was at Brian Park, it wasn't like
it is at Lincoln Center, it wasn't even like it
was at Clarkson Street. So, as we all know, and
(21:45):
Christopher disgusted briefly, the New York Fashion Week no longer
has a stable one venue, so you are running everywhere
to the shows. I think I spent a way over
hundred and some dollars and cabs and ubers going to
shows and you walking up all those stairs in the
(22:06):
subway because you're literally running back and forth all over
the city all day long. So that's very exhausting. So
I would hope that the CFDA would try to at
least get some type of consistent location. That is my
really one major complaint. But other than that, I felt
a lot of energy this season as compared to what
(22:29):
we saw in February of twenty twenty four. People were smiling,
they were happy. There were far fewer influencers at the
shows which many of us don't care for my self
included unless they're really really good influencers, top influencers, and
there was a there was a really wonderful jovial spirit.
(22:51):
The CFDA is trying some new things to really get
more attention on retail shopping, the fast industry at large,
and particularly New York Fashion Week. So they launched a
free screening live screening of certain shows at Rockefeller Center
(23:11):
ice Rink, so you could go through the ice drink
at Rockefeller Center. It was free. You could watch the
live streaming of the shows like Oscar de Laurents, Carolyn Hararra,
Ralph Lauren, a lot of the big brands. If you
didn't get tickets, if you couldn't afford to buy tickets,
or you were not on the press list, you could
(23:32):
actually have a wonderful experience and watch it live at
Rockefeller Center. So that was something they were doing to
bring attention back to New York Fashion Week. The verdict
is still out on whether that worked, but I think
it's a very valiant effort and the New York Fashion
I mean, cifty eight did something that they normally don't do,
(23:54):
and I think it was an incredible move We know
Tiano me and you discussed this offline and private lives.
That we're in an election year, and this election is
a very important election. It's all about our freedom. And
the CFTA actually sponsored a political march. Who would think
(24:21):
a political march around fashion. Who would think that that
would actually be something they would do. But if you
think about it, to quote Billy d Williams from the
movie Mahogany, everything is political. So fashion is also political.
When you think about the clothes that we wear a
(24:43):
lot of times, they're reflecting political movements. You know, the
Flower Powers of the hippies in the sixties, the Black
Power movement of the sixties, the women's movement of the
sixties and seventies, the punk movement of the seventies in
the eighties that originated in Britain. All those things reflect
(25:05):
politics and culture and how we see ourselves. So this
year the cft eight had a march called Fashion for
Our Future, which started from Herald Square on the first
day of Fashion Week and went all the way up
to Rockefeller Center to launch the live screen streaming. And
(25:27):
it was a march for our freedom, a march for
our creativity, and I think they're moving in the right
direction with trying to get consumers and the average individual
to understand that fashion is not separate from the way
(25:47):
that you live. It's a part of the way that
you live. It's a part of your life. And since
it is that, it's also political. So that is one
thing that was kind of different about this fashion.
Speaker 3 (26:02):
Well.
Speaker 1 (26:02):
I do like the idea of them incorporating the screen
on the ice ring in Rockefeller I think that's great
way to include people that are not part of the
industry as well, or that are just tourists visiting our
city and so. And as far as politics, I will
(26:22):
leave it out because I do think that something should
be separated. But okay, however, there is another topic that
you touched upon, which is the influencers, so that you're
such a big fan of, So tell me what do you.
Speaker 2 (26:44):
Think this last season. I was really worn out by
the influencer is influencing over?
Speaker 1 (26:53):
I mean, do they still have the effect as they
did in the last couple of years, or is it
true that they truly replaced fashion industry professionals or they're gone.
Speaker 2 (27:08):
They're not gone. They have been more integrated into the
rest of the fashion audience at the shows, so they
are no longer front and center of some of the
big ones that have you know, ten million followers are
still in the front row. But the industry is adjusting
(27:31):
its position with influencers, and I think they're starting to realize.
You know, Ralph Laurence said last February he didn't want
any more influencers at his shows. He was really not a.
Speaker 3 (27:45):
F Now why is that.
Speaker 1 (27:46):
Is it that they don't know how to behave or
what is the issue with the influencers.
Speaker 2 (27:53):
I can't speak for why Ralph lauren said that. You know,
his show was in the Hamptons, and of course I
was not at his show, so maybe there were influencers there.
I don't know, but I do know that the industries
had a lot of challenges with them because they kind
of promised things that they don't deliver. So they have
this huge audience on Instagram and TikTok, and brands collaborate
(28:20):
with them, and the brands are not getting back what
they're putting in. So they will do a collaboration with
an influencer hoping that that will somehow turn into sales,
and they're seeing that that's not really happening as much
as it once was, and I don't think it was
ever happening as much as people wanted it to happen.
(28:44):
So what I saw this season was far less influencers.
Now you may ask William, how can you tell they're
an influencer that we always knew who they were because
they would come in, they weren't friendly, they wouldn't talk
to anybody. They would go to their seat, and they
would take pictures of themselves throughout the entire show. They
(29:05):
might take one or two pictures of the runway. They
didn't even look at the collections. They were basically promoting themselves.
I saw far less of that. I saw a lot
of people making videos and taking pictures of the collections,
and I saw very few people wrapped up in their
own world, which is a good thing. So I don't
(29:25):
think they're gone, you know. Lauren Louis Pierre, one of
our fashion editors The Fashion where we did a wonderful
article about influencers, they kind of one part about pre
fashion recoverage, asking if their time has come and gone.
I don't think it's coming gone. I just think they're
(29:45):
being put in their proper place as a part of
a larger picture of marketing fashion. So where editors and
stylists and other fashion indacy professional we're being pushed aside
for the influencers. I think we're now being moved more
(30:06):
back towards the center. Will it be like it was
at the fashion weeks of or of your rather Brian Park,
New York Fashion Week? Those days are never coming back,
so we're I think we're moving toward a new way
of looking at marketing, which is a combination of different
elements to help get consumers interested in dressing again. You know, Tiana,
(30:33):
since the pandemic, a lot of people are still working
from home, so people don't need to go inbouy much
clothes anymore. You know, you work from home, whether you're
working hybrid, whether you're going to the office a couple
of days and work from home you know a couple
of days, or you're working from home completely. So retail
is still a little down because people just don't need
to buy clothes. So the fashion industry is trying different
(30:56):
things to try to get people interested again buying clothes
and expressing themselves through fashion, and all these things that
the CFDA is doing is leading toward that goal of
getting people excited about fashion again, what do you think.
Speaker 1 (31:17):
There are some other ways that New York Fashion Week
can be improved.
Speaker 2 (31:23):
Well, Lord knows getting a main venue would help a
whole lot and getting the show, and once if they
even get a main venue, is making sure that the
designers who are not showing that venue are showing near
that venue, because honestly a lot of people don't go
to the shows who get invited because you are worn
out running to eight nine shows a day all over
(31:45):
the city. I mean, it's expensive and it's really tiring.
So I think the if the CFDA could get a
main venue, that would help a lot. And I think
they need to reach out to media outside of fashion.
I mean it used to be when when Williams was
on You remember Wendy Williams Tianna. She would have a
whole fashion segment for a whole week. Nobody does that anymore.
(32:07):
Tamperin Hall may give a little press to it for
one day, Sherry Shpfard may say a little something, oh
it's fashion Week, but all those morning talk shows would
have fashion on the whole week of New York Fashion Week.
So I think the CFTA needs to reach out to
mainstream media to try to get more coverage, to try
to get more excitement. I think they should try to
(32:31):
get a lot of the celebrities to try to come back.
Some of them are still coming to the shows, but
they just need to do something to get the audience excited.
You know, last thing I'm going to say about this
one thing that did happen this year. We saw some
brands show in New York. They had never shown any
(32:52):
European houses off white, you know Vergil Ablow's brand, although
he's passed away and he has another paying director. They
showed for the first time in New York. A lot
Aliyah Alaya showed for the first time in New York
at the googenem and I watched the show online. Gorgeous, stunning, beautiful,
(33:13):
and a whole bunch of other brands European brands showed
it for the first time. So other brands and other
countries understand the important supportance of the New York market.
The CFDA needs to find a way to get the
consumer interested again in a new way. Can't be the
(33:34):
old ways. Sometimes the old ways don't work anymore.
Speaker 1 (33:37):
So what are some of the shows that were your favorite.
Speaker 2 (33:41):
I went to a show called Der which is a
brand by a Haitian mother and daughter team. Stunning, gorgeous, accessible,
very bowl colors, very Caribbean style in nature. It was
(34:01):
almost a resort collection, and they did something really interesting.
It was done in the street, out on the street
and down in Soho off of on Walker Street. Was
right off of Walker Street. They did it and they
had something that you don't see much anymore. Male models
and female models as couples walking together down the runway.
(34:25):
Very sexy clothes, very sexy presence. Clothes were extremely well made,
and they dressed their consumer at every juncture of their day.
If they were in the tropics, they were on the vacation,
so you could find something for that from that collection
to where every juncture of your day. Great collection, very
(34:47):
well received. I loved it, and I got there late.
I didn't have a seat, but I was able to
stand on the fire escape and watch the collection.
Speaker 3 (34:58):
That's great. It's like a fun show.
Speaker 2 (35:01):
I also saw this show that I was not familiar with.
I was invited by the wonderful Chris Constable Renshoe. Wonderful collection,
very minimalist, very typical minimalist Asian inspired collection, some Asian
silhouettes because I'm some kind of mild jacket like silhouettes,
(35:25):
Mandarin jackets, but all neutral colors, black, white, off white,
a little bit of gray, but just gorgeous, beautiful clothes,
well constructed, something that a lot of people would want
to wear. And the production was just expert really really
(35:50):
put together, very well. And of course I was excited
because Beverly Johnson was in the audience and Billy Porter.
Speaker 3 (36:02):
Oh okay, if there is promising brand.
Speaker 2 (36:07):
Yeah, So those were two of my favorites.
Speaker 3 (36:10):
That's great.
Speaker 1 (36:11):
Well, thank you William for sharing your thoughts on the
New York Fashion Week twenty twenty four.
Speaker 2 (36:20):
Thank you for having me well, viewers. That's it for
this episode of Fashion Reverie Talks.
Speaker 1 (36:27):
We would like to thank our Fashion Reverie Associate editor
Christopher Frasier and Fashion Reverie Editor in chief William Gooch.
Speaker 2 (36:36):
For more information on these and other stories, go to
Fashion revery dot com. Don't forget to hit the like
and subscribe buttons. Thanks for watching and we'll see you
next time.
Speaker 5 (37:03):
Sped ut As Hotelium and SPLUSU sedut As Hotelium and
Lu
Welcome to Fashion Reverie Talks. I am Tiana Ibrahimovitch.
Speaker 2 (00:26):
I am William Gooch filling in for Cicely Daniels.
Speaker 1 (00:31):
Fashion Reverie takes you from the front lines of fashion
to the front row.
Speaker 2 (00:36):
All of our Fashion Reverie Talk segments are based on
pobused content found on Fashion reverie dot com.
Speaker 1 (00:43):
So remember, if you want more information on the segments,
go to fashion reverie dot com and to like these episodes,
go to YouTube and subscribe.
Speaker 2 (00:55):
In this episode, we're happy to have Fashion Reverie Associate
editor Chris Fraser, who will discuss some of his favorite
shows from New York Fashion Week and I will also
talk about my experience with New York Fashion Week. So
let's start with all with fashion news. All of our
news segments are based on the fashion news alerts found
(01:18):
on Fashion reverie dot com.
Speaker 1 (01:20):
Okay, let's jump into the current events in fashion. I'm
going to start off at Margarobi's new job. So Chanelle
number five has a not so new celebrity face, Margarobi.
She has been their brand ambassador for Chanelle Number five
since twenty eighteen, but she will currently be representing the.
Speaker 3 (01:45):
New iconic fragrance.
Speaker 1 (01:48):
So she is ideal for this job because we all
see her as this icon of femininity and especially of
someone that you do want to know what sense she's using.
So she will kick off the latest fragrance just in
time for the holiday holiday season in October. So the
(02:12):
first campaign will be featuring her and it will hit
the markets in October.
Speaker 2 (02:19):
So, Tiana, do you think she's going to bring a
little bit of that Barbie magic to this new role
as the face of Chanelle. I don't know if Barbie
and Chanelle go together, but what do you think?
Speaker 4 (02:30):
Yeah?
Speaker 3 (02:31):
I think so.
Speaker 1 (02:32):
I mean both are kind of staples of femininity and
you know, fashion and fashion forwardness, so I think it's
it's good.
Speaker 3 (02:42):
It's a good combo.
Speaker 2 (02:44):
Well, we have some unfortunate news. Peter and Nigard, you know,
the big fashion mogul, Canadian fashion mogul, has been sentenced
to eleven years in prison for sexual assault against four
women and one young girl. Nightguard could be released early
because he's kind of served some time in his pre
(03:06):
trial custody, so he may get four years taken off
of his his sentencing, but that's yet to be known,
and it's such a tragedy because you know, Peter Nightguard
is eighty three years old. People, you know, in investigative
teens have been after him for about fifteen years for
(03:27):
these for at that time alleged sexual modistation. But they
finally did catch him and sentence him. And you know,
Ontario Superior Court Justice Robert Goldstein said that Nightguard was
a Canadian success story gone very wrong, and that he
(03:50):
used his power and wealth to lure young women into
doing into becoming his victims. And it's very sad. You know,
some of these assaults go back all the way back
to nineteen eighty eight up until two thousand and five,
and he would lure young girls and women to his
(04:11):
home in promise of a modeling career or some type
of opportunities in fashion, and when they wouldn't really submit
on their own to his sexual advances, he would drug there.
So this is a really, really, really big tragedy. And
you know, the man is worth about six hundred and
twenty million dollars at one time he was worth their amount,
(04:33):
and he had one hundred and seventy namesake stores in
the US and Canada, So it's all kind of come
crumbling down. So here we are yet another sexual assault scandal.
What do you think, Tianna.
Speaker 1 (04:52):
I mean, he's spent eighty years enjoying himself, so.
Speaker 2 (04:57):
Wow, if you want to call that enjoying himself, well that's.
Speaker 3 (05:01):
What I mean. Like he was doing whatever he wanted.
Speaker 1 (05:04):
It took a really long time to punish him for
his crimes. Imagine how many victims that is.
Speaker 2 (05:13):
Yeah, you know, and you know, he really was a
high profile fashion guy. You know, there was a nightguard
store right off of Times Square at one time in
New York City, and he was known for hanging out
with politicians and celebrities. He even was a friend to
Queen Elizabeth a second He's to have dinners with her
(05:34):
and being honored by her. So it's a real, real
kind of operatic level downfall, you know. Yeah, his achilles
heel is that he couldn't keep his hand off of
young women.
Speaker 3 (05:55):
In any way he could.
Speaker 1 (05:57):
Yes, well we do have a little bit more of
a positive, uh.
Speaker 4 (06:04):
So.
Speaker 1 (06:05):
Macy's is attempting to reimagine its private brands and its
new men squear brand. Mode of One includes everyday essentials
and statement designs created with a focus on fits and proportions.
So the collection is inspired by sports, music, technology, and
(06:30):
street style. And for this few collection, Macy's collaborated with
graphic designer Tyrrell Waiters and Uigi Theodore, the founder of
the Brooklyn Circus and theater style. This inaugural collection, More
(06:50):
of Once features over one hundred and forty items. It
includes hooties, graphic teas, cargo pans, and prices range from
about twenty five dollars to one hundred and fifty ish
dollars and all kinds of sizes, so there's a little
(07:11):
bit of something for everyone. And so More of One,
according to senior or vice president and head of Private
Brands at Macy's, represents their commitment to offering contemporary manswuere
that celebrates the individuality of a modern man.
Speaker 2 (07:33):
You know, Tianna. Macy's really has a huge array of
what we used to call private labeling, where they would
have their own brands and be designed by individual designers,
and so this is just another addition of that. And
it's very affordable, which makes it accessible to a lot
(07:54):
of people. I looked at some of the pieces, they're
actually quite nice, and you know, the collection is kind
of inspired by streetwear, technology, music, and I think it's
going to be a big hit for young consumers. Some
of the pieces are a little out of my age demographic,
(08:14):
but you know, since I do love Macy's, I'm going
to go there and buy something that's good. Okay, everyone,
this is the end of our fashion news segment, and
remember if you want more information about these segments, go
to fashion wherevery dot com. Well, welcome back viewers. Now
(08:39):
we are joined by our associate fashion editor, Christopher Frasier.
Speaker 4 (08:44):
Hey Chris, hey, coach.
Speaker 2 (08:46):
Now, christ we know you are the man about town
when it comes to New York Fashion Week. You get
more invitations than your boss to show. But we want
to talk about your impression New York Fashion Week, our
spring twenty twenty five season, which just ended this past Wednesday.
So just give us a very brief general opinion of
(09:09):
New York Fashion Week.
Speaker 5 (09:11):
You know, this week, this season, New York Fashion Week glossom,
it's central venue. But I think that I actually left
designers a lot more room to play with their visions
of what they wanted, with their ability to select their
own space. New York Fashion t Week has been getting
a lot of criticism. If it still has the same
blair at you too, But you saw a lot of
designers doing a lot of really great things. Tommy Hill
(09:33):
Figure had to show on the Staten Island Ferry, Frederick
Anderson rented like the Opera House in Midtown for his
runaway shows. And these designers were doing great shows. So,
you know, I think New York Fashion Week this season
really did its best to reject that label of oh
we're over Yeah.
Speaker 2 (09:52):
Now we say when you say they lost their venue,
you're talking about Springs Studios. Correct.
Speaker 5 (09:57):
Well, last season, as of last February, they were supposed
to be a new central venue star at Lady the
Studios there.
Speaker 2 (10:04):
Oh but hearing late Lehigh right, yeah, but the invin
you didn't work out that well.
Speaker 4 (10:09):
That venue did not work out that well.
Speaker 5 (10:11):
And you know what, people were not even sad about
it because it was just so far away from anything everything.
So even though there was a oh like, we missed
the convenience of the central venue, the one they tried
to give us was not that convenient. People were really
happier running around town for runway shows being stuck over there.
Speaker 2 (10:32):
Right, that's true. So Christopher, let's start with one of
Fashion Rivery's favorites. Frederick Anderson. Let's start with him beause
I knew you went to your show. I want your opinion.
You know, me and Freddy have a long history. We're
both from North Carolina, and I've known Freddy since he
was sixteen. Can you believe it?
Speaker 4 (10:52):
Weren't you guys dancers together?
Speaker 2 (10:54):
We were in a regional Well, most people don't know
my little background. I was a vallet dancer prior to
working in fashion, and me and Freddie were in a
small civic ballet company in North Carolina. I was a
little bit older than he was, but he was sixteen.
So I've known him for a really long time, and
we kind of re acquainted ourselves with each other in
(11:16):
New York, and both of us had left the dance
world and he was working as a designer and I
was working as a fashion editor. So we have a
long history. So I love his shows. I went last
February to show, and every season I think it gets
a little bit better, and he gets a little bit
more focused and his collection is a little bit more cohesive.
But that's just, you know, the big boss's opinion. So
(11:40):
I want your opinion, Christmer, this is about you.
Speaker 5 (11:44):
I saw Frederick after his show and I told him
that this was his absolute best collection to date and
he said he felt the same way about it too.
And one thing I really like about Frederick and his
approach to design is and you see it when you're
at his shows with his audience, he really understands his consumer.
They're the girls on the Upper east Side, they're the
girls in the Hamptons, they're the girls going to travel
(12:06):
to resorts in the summer. They're in Santropei, they're in
Saint Barts. He knows what those girls want and he
understands how they dress, and it really reflects in his clothes.
And this year, I know he's been focusing a lot
more on growing his retail presence. He has picked up
Sex with Avenue as a partner. He's opened his own
brick and mortar store. And with that elevation of his
(12:26):
approach to business, you also see that elevation and his
approach to design. Silhouettes were tighter, silhouettes were cleaner, fabrics
were more elevated, and things like that in terms of,
you know, trying to take his brand to that next level.
Speaker 2 (12:42):
And what was the inspiration or theme of this collection?
Speaker 4 (12:46):
It seemed like he was going for with spring summer.
Speaker 5 (12:48):
It seemed like he was going for really thinking about
that girl that's jet setting, like she going to be
next Like she it's that kind of girl that will
dress up to get on the plane and then she's
she's going to need her change of clothes for the
Michelin Star restaurant she's going to. Then she's going to
need her next change of clothes for the ballroom at
(13:10):
the resort that night.
Speaker 2 (13:11):
So in a way, he dressed her at every juncture
of her day.
Speaker 4 (13:15):
Yes, he was. It's really wardrobe styling.
Speaker 2 (13:18):
Right, So it's a life to me. His clothes look
like a lifestyle absolutely collection like what Ralph Lauren does
so beautifully and consistently. He is developing into a lifestyle brand.
Do you do you agree to disagree?
Speaker 5 (13:36):
One hundred percent agree because these girls he have, he
has his customers, they are living that life right like
some of them have private jets, some of them have
second homes, and some of them have some of them
may even be as wealthy to have private islands. They're
their jets setting off to the Mediterranean. They're at the
Amalfi coast.
Speaker 2 (13:57):
So would you say This is the update aid version
of the Ladies who Lunch. But they don't just launch
in New York. They launch all over the world.
Speaker 5 (14:06):
Oh, they're all over the world, honey, They're They're sipping
there Li Minchello in the Amalfi Coast. They're with their
Marco Ritaz in Saint Bart's yacht in Santrope.
Speaker 6 (14:19):
Must be nice, yes, it must be nice. Okay, let's
go to Cousto Barcelona. One of my favorite brands and
a show that I usually attend. I didn't go this season,
but I usually attend every season, and I just love
what Dalmo Cousto has been doing for so long. So okay,
(14:43):
take it away, Christopher Cousto Barcelona.
Speaker 4 (14:46):
What ahead of the show.
Speaker 5 (14:47):
One of the things I've been seeing a lot in
the fashion media sphere and hearing other editors in Silas
talk about is the return of Boho chic for those
fans of Rachel Zoe and remember the Rachel Zoe Project era.
That was how she always described her whole style, the
whole Boho Sheik aesthetic, like taking the bohemian and trying
to elevate it, making it very Orange County, making it
(15:09):
very West Village. You saw a lot of that with
Gusto Barcelona's collection this season.
Speaker 4 (15:15):
Then it still had that very much.
Speaker 5 (15:17):
That brand DNA of the creative and the culpful and
the patterns, And I think this could be potentially a
really strong retail moment for the brand with the.
Speaker 2 (15:25):
Bohoji, which they need because you know, they've been in
competition forever with Desie Wall, Dissi Wall right right, and
Disney Wall stole a lot of their thunder six seven
years ago and kind of has continued on their trajectory.
So you think this is maybe another shining moment for them.
Speaker 4 (15:46):
Absolutely, I think it could be.
Speaker 5 (15:47):
With so many celebrities hopping on the Boho she trend
right now too.
Speaker 4 (15:51):
You see Gigi Hidi doing it, You see Belaha Behidi
doing it.
Speaker 5 (15:56):
You see Julia Fox doing it when she isn't in
one of her crazy off on card style outfits boo,
she's toned down for her. But with a lot of
the it girls hopping on the Boho sheet trend and
that aesthetic having such a moment right now, this was
the perfect timing for that collection. If they're trying to
(16:17):
get customers back on board that they may that they
may have lost to other brands or people that used
to shop them back in the day that may have
just not been shopping them as much lately.
Speaker 2 (16:29):
And I went to opinion, Christopher, when I looked at
the collection. You know, Crustal Barcelonia was known for putting
crazy colors and patterns together and a lot of bowl colors,
and sometimes the bowl colors didn't necessarily mesh or go
well together. But this collection looked a little bit more
cohesive and toned down with the colors. You know, there
(16:51):
were a lot more neutral tones in this collection. What
is your opinion, Christopher, that's my opinion, what's yours?
Speaker 4 (16:58):
I think as he's looking for more sellability, he found value.
Speaker 5 (17:03):
Yes, he's found that balance between you know, still having
a lot of the color, but maybe toning it down
by putting it on a.
Speaker 4 (17:10):
More neutral palette.
Speaker 5 (17:12):
So it's a little bit more approachable for your average shopper,
but it still has that brand DNA, because you know,
he's not sending he's not doing quiet luxury.
Speaker 4 (17:20):
That's not his approach to things.
Speaker 5 (17:22):
So even though it's a little even though he's like
toned it down a little bit, it still very much
has that Cousto Barcelona fair flair like. It might be
a white dress but it still has tons of colorful trim.
It might be a white T shirt but it has
a bold graphic on it.
Speaker 2 (17:37):
Okay, great, now, Christopher, Let's talk about this brand that
you introduced me to that I had never heard of,
and I might be pronouncing it wrong, so help me.
Speaker 4 (17:48):
Bad beach tong tong, Yeah, bad bench tongtong.
Speaker 2 (17:53):
Okay, all right, all right, see that again.
Speaker 4 (17:55):
Bad bench tongtong bench b I n h.
Speaker 2 (17:58):
Right. And when I looked at your article and I
looked at some of the images, very architectural, very sculptural,
very I don't want to call it avant garde, but
definitely very much described next, definitely next, So.
Speaker 5 (18:19):
You take it, christ So the designer turns down actually
very much describes the brand as avant guarde. Actually, his
whole approach to things is he's very much inspired by
the extra terrestrial. So he's like trying to think of
how aliens that would shop Catoure if they got to Earth,
what they would wear, which I know sounds so out there,
(18:42):
but he.
Speaker 4 (18:44):
Very much embraces the avant guard for him.
Speaker 5 (18:46):
Right now, at least things aren't so much as about retail.
He's still trying to treat this as more of like
an art meets fashion situation. So there's a lot of
very architectural structured gown and see the first two looks
when the show started were these women in like these
like cat suits in case in these giant gowns that
(19:09):
looked like oversized tulips and be able to show it
to church, and it.
Speaker 4 (19:14):
Had a very richalistic aspect to it.
Speaker 5 (19:16):
But the music and everything and like the sort of
like interpretive dance, it almost seemed like he was doing
a device theater piece in combination with the runaway show, so.
Speaker 2 (19:27):
It almost was like performance art in a sense.
Speaker 4 (19:29):
Yeah, very much.
Speaker 2 (19:30):
So okay, okay, now you know, William Gooch loved anything
that has some theater and performance to it, so I
wish I'd had the opportunity to go to the show. Well, Christopher,
thank you so much for your review, for your really
studied opinion, and we can't and viewers please go to
(19:50):
fashion for every dot com to get more detail about
these designers and read more of Christopher's reviews.
Speaker 4 (19:56):
Thank you, Christopher, You're welcome, coach.
Speaker 1 (20:03):
So today we have a special honor to have our
editor in chief William Gooch discuss the latest season of
New York Fashion Week.
Speaker 3 (20:13):
So welcome mister Gooch to box.
Speaker 2 (20:19):
Well, I've been doing double duty today because unfortunately our
wonderful co host Sisanly Daniels could not be for our
first season back. And for those I think we need
to share, I think we should share with our viewers.
Tianna Sisterly's in a Broadway show, once Upon the revival
of Once Upon a Mattress, And she's in the cast
(20:43):
of that, which is an ongoing Broadway show right now,
and she's in that cast and she's understudying one of
the leads. So we're so proud of her and we're
so happy that she is in Once Upon a Mattress.
And for those who don't remember, Sah Jessica Parker was
in the nineteen ninety nine revival, so the show is
(21:04):
backstarring Son Foster, who I love. So unfortunately, Sincely couldn't
be here today, so I'm doing double duty. I'm doing
the best I can.
Speaker 4 (21:12):
I hope I'm not doing so bad.
Speaker 3 (21:13):
I think you're doing great.
Speaker 1 (21:17):
Who's a better person than you to talk about New
York Fashion Week?
Speaker 3 (21:22):
Besides the Frasier.
Speaker 2 (21:25):
Yes, well, Christopher did a great job, you know. Okay,
now let's talk about New York Fashion Week. What is
the state of New York Fashion Week? So there's been
so many articles about New York Fashion Week, how it
isn't like it was at Brian Park, it wasn't like
it is at Lincoln Center, it wasn't even like it
was at Clarkson Street. So, as we all know, and
(21:45):
Christopher disgusted briefly, the New York Fashion Week no longer
has a stable one venue, so you are running everywhere
to the shows. I think I spent a way over
hundred and some dollars and cabs and ubers going to
shows and you walking up all those stairs in the
(22:06):
subway because you're literally running back and forth all over
the city all day long. So that's very exhausting. So
I would hope that the CFDA would try to at
least get some type of consistent location. That is my
really one major complaint. But other than that, I felt
a lot of energy this season as compared to what
(22:29):
we saw in February of twenty twenty four. People were smiling,
they were happy. There were far fewer influencers at the
shows which many of us don't care for my self
included unless they're really really good influencers, top influencers, and
there was a there was a really wonderful jovial spirit.
(22:51):
The CFDA is trying some new things to really get
more attention on retail shopping, the fast industry at large,
and particularly New York Fashion Week. So they launched a
free screening live screening of certain shows at Rockefeller Center
(23:11):
ice Rink, so you could go through the ice drink
at Rockefeller Center. It was free. You could watch the
live streaming of the shows like Oscar de Laurents, Carolyn Hararra,
Ralph Lauren, a lot of the big brands. If you
didn't get tickets, if you couldn't afford to buy tickets,
or you were not on the press list, you could
(23:32):
actually have a wonderful experience and watch it live at
Rockefeller Center. So that was something they were doing to
bring attention back to New York Fashion Week. The verdict
is still out on whether that worked, but I think
it's a very valiant effort and the New York Fashion
I mean, cifty eight did something that they normally don't do,
(23:54):
and I think it was an incredible move We know
Tiano me and you discussed this offline and private lives.
That we're in an election year, and this election is
a very important election. It's all about our freedom. And
the CFTA actually sponsored a political march. Who would think
(24:21):
a political march around fashion. Who would think that that
would actually be something they would do. But if you
think about it, to quote Billy d Williams from the
movie Mahogany, everything is political. So fashion is also political.
When you think about the clothes that we wear a
(24:43):
lot of times, they're reflecting political movements. You know, the
Flower Powers of the hippies in the sixties, the Black
Power movement of the sixties, the women's movement of the
sixties and seventies, the punk movement of the seventies in
the eighties that originated in Britain. All those things reflect
(25:05):
politics and culture and how we see ourselves. So this
year the cft eight had a march called Fashion for
Our Future, which started from Herald Square on the first
day of Fashion Week and went all the way up
to Rockefeller Center to launch the live screen streaming. And
(25:27):
it was a march for our freedom, a march for
our creativity, and I think they're moving in the right
direction with trying to get consumers and the average individual
to understand that fashion is not separate from the way
(25:47):
that you live. It's a part of the way that
you live. It's a part of your life. And since
it is that, it's also political. So that is one
thing that was kind of different about this fashion.
Speaker 3 (26:02):
Well.
Speaker 1 (26:02):
I do like the idea of them incorporating the screen
on the ice ring in Rockefeller I think that's great
way to include people that are not part of the
industry as well, or that are just tourists visiting our
city and so. And as far as politics, I will
(26:22):
leave it out because I do think that something should
be separated. But okay, however, there is another topic that
you touched upon, which is the influencers, so that you're
such a big fan of, So tell me what do you.
Speaker 2 (26:44):
Think this last season. I was really worn out by
the influencer is influencing over?
Speaker 1 (26:53):
I mean, do they still have the effect as they
did in the last couple of years, or is it
true that they truly replaced fashion industry professionals or they're gone.
Speaker 2 (27:08):
They're not gone. They have been more integrated into the
rest of the fashion audience at the shows, so they
are no longer front and center of some of the
big ones that have you know, ten million followers are
still in the front row. But the industry is adjusting
(27:31):
its position with influencers, and I think they're starting to realize.
You know, Ralph Laurence said last February he didn't want
any more influencers at his shows. He was really not a.
Speaker 3 (27:45):
F Now why is that.
Speaker 1 (27:46):
Is it that they don't know how to behave or
what is the issue with the influencers.
Speaker 2 (27:53):
I can't speak for why Ralph lauren said that. You know,
his show was in the Hamptons, and of course I
was not at his show, so maybe there were influencers there.
I don't know, but I do know that the industries
had a lot of challenges with them because they kind
of promised things that they don't deliver. So they have
this huge audience on Instagram and TikTok, and brands collaborate
(28:20):
with them, and the brands are not getting back what
they're putting in. So they will do a collaboration with
an influencer hoping that that will somehow turn into sales,
and they're seeing that that's not really happening as much
as it once was, and I don't think it was
ever happening as much as people wanted it to happen.
(28:44):
So what I saw this season was far less influencers.
Now you may ask William, how can you tell they're
an influencer that we always knew who they were because
they would come in, they weren't friendly, they wouldn't talk
to anybody. They would go to their seat, and they
would take pictures of themselves throughout the entire show. They
(29:05):
might take one or two pictures of the runway. They
didn't even look at the collections. They were basically promoting themselves.
I saw far less of that. I saw a lot
of people making videos and taking pictures of the collections,
and I saw very few people wrapped up in their
own world, which is a good thing. So I don't
(29:25):
think they're gone, you know. Lauren Louis Pierre, one of
our fashion editors The Fashion where we did a wonderful
article about influencers, they kind of one part about pre
fashion recoverage, asking if their time has come and gone.
I don't think it's coming gone. I just think they're
(29:45):
being put in their proper place as a part of
a larger picture of marketing fashion. So where editors and
stylists and other fashion indacy professional we're being pushed aside
for the influencers. I think we're now being moved more
(30:06):
back towards the center. Will it be like it was
at the fashion weeks of or of your rather Brian Park,
New York Fashion Week? Those days are never coming back,
so we're I think we're moving toward a new way
of looking at marketing, which is a combination of different
elements to help get consumers interested in dressing again. You know, Tiana,
(30:33):
since the pandemic, a lot of people are still working
from home, so people don't need to go inbouy much
clothes anymore. You know, you work from home, whether you're
working hybrid, whether you're going to the office a couple
of days and work from home you know a couple
of days, or you're working from home completely. So retail
is still a little down because people just don't need
to buy clothes. So the fashion industry is trying different
(30:56):
things to try to get people interested again buying clothes
and expressing themselves through fashion, and all these things that
the CFDA is doing is leading toward that goal of
getting people excited about fashion again, what do you think.
Speaker 1 (31:17):
There are some other ways that New York Fashion Week
can be improved.
Speaker 2 (31:23):
Well, Lord knows getting a main venue would help a
whole lot and getting the show, and once if they
even get a main venue, is making sure that the
designers who are not showing that venue are showing near
that venue, because honestly a lot of people don't go
to the shows who get invited because you are worn
out running to eight nine shows a day all over
(31:45):
the city. I mean, it's expensive and it's really tiring.
So I think the if the CFDA could get a
main venue, that would help a lot. And I think
they need to reach out to media outside of fashion.
I mean it used to be when when Williams was
on You remember Wendy Williams Tianna. She would have a
whole fashion segment for a whole week. Nobody does that anymore.
(32:07):
Tamperin Hall may give a little press to it for
one day, Sherry Shpfard may say a little something, oh
it's fashion Week, but all those morning talk shows would
have fashion on the whole week of New York Fashion Week.
So I think the CFTA needs to reach out to
mainstream media to try to get more coverage, to try
to get more excitement. I think they should try to
(32:31):
get a lot of the celebrities to try to come back.
Some of them are still coming to the shows, but
they just need to do something to get the audience excited.
You know, last thing I'm going to say about this
one thing that did happen this year. We saw some
brands show in New York. They had never shown any
(32:52):
European houses off white, you know Vergil Ablow's brand, although
he's passed away and he has another paying director. They
showed for the first time in New York. A lot
Aliyah Alaya showed for the first time in New York
at the googenem and I watched the show online. Gorgeous, stunning, beautiful,
(33:13):
and a whole bunch of other brands European brands showed
it for the first time. So other brands and other
countries understand the important supportance of the New York market.
The CFDA needs to find a way to get the
consumer interested again in a new way. Can't be the
(33:34):
old ways. Sometimes the old ways don't work anymore.
Speaker 1 (33:37):
So what are some of the shows that were your favorite.
Speaker 2 (33:41):
I went to a show called Der which is a
brand by a Haitian mother and daughter team. Stunning, gorgeous, accessible,
very bowl colors, very Caribbean style in nature. It was
(34:01):
almost a resort collection, and they did something really interesting.
It was done in the street, out on the street
and down in Soho off of on Walker Street. Was
right off of Walker Street. They did it and they
had something that you don't see much anymore. Male models
and female models as couples walking together down the runway.
(34:25):
Very sexy clothes, very sexy presence. Clothes were extremely well made,
and they dressed their consumer at every juncture of their day.
If they were in the tropics, they were on the vacation,
so you could find something for that from that collection
to where every juncture of your day. Great collection, very
(34:47):
well received. I loved it, and I got there late.
I didn't have a seat, but I was able to
stand on the fire escape and watch the collection.
Speaker 3 (34:58):
That's great. It's like a fun show.
Speaker 2 (35:01):
I also saw this show that I was not familiar with.
I was invited by the wonderful Chris Constable Renshoe. Wonderful collection,
very minimalist, very typical minimalist Asian inspired collection, some Asian
silhouettes because I'm some kind of mild jacket like silhouettes,
(35:25):
Mandarin jackets, but all neutral colors, black, white, off white,
a little bit of gray, but just gorgeous, beautiful clothes,
well constructed, something that a lot of people would want
to wear. And the production was just expert really really
(35:50):
put together, very well. And of course I was excited
because Beverly Johnson was in the audience and Billy Porter.
Speaker 3 (36:02):
Oh okay, if there is promising brand.
Speaker 2 (36:07):
Yeah, So those were two of my favorites.
Speaker 3 (36:10):
That's great.
Speaker 1 (36:11):
Well, thank you William for sharing your thoughts on the
New York Fashion Week twenty twenty four.
Speaker 2 (36:20):
Thank you for having me well, viewers. That's it for
this episode of Fashion Reverie Talks.
Speaker 1 (36:27):
We would like to thank our Fashion Reverie Associate editor
Christopher Frasier and Fashion Reverie Editor in chief William Gooch.
Speaker 2 (36:36):
For more information on these and other stories, go to
Fashion revery dot com. Don't forget to hit the like
and subscribe buttons. Thanks for watching and we'll see you
next time.
Speaker 5 (37:03):
Sped ut As Hotelium and SPLUSU sedut As Hotelium and
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