Episode Transcript
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Speaker 1 (00:23):
Welcome to Fashion Reverie Talks. I'm Tiana Ibrahimovic and I
am Cecily Daniels. Fashion Reverie takes you from the front line,
so fashion to the front row.
Speaker 2 (00:34):
All of Fashion Reverie Talks segments are based on published
content found on Fashion reverie dot com.
Speaker 1 (00:41):
So remember, if you want more information on the segments, go.
Speaker 3 (00:45):
To fashion reverie dot com.
Speaker 1 (00:46):
And if you like this episode, don't forget to subscribe
and hit the like button on this episode on YouTube.
Speaker 2 (00:53):
In this episode, we are so excited to have Fashion
reverie dot com Associate editor Christopher fra You're here to
speak about his new article the Demise of Fashion Publishing.
Speaker 3 (01:05):
I miss you, Tiana.
Speaker 2 (01:06):
This is our first time together on this season.
Speaker 3 (01:08):
It's great for being me back.
Speaker 2 (01:13):
That said, let us start with our fashion news. All
of our new segments are based on the fashion news
alerts found on Fashion referee dot com. And I am
going to start with our first news segment. It is
about Ashley Graham's new collection. Ashley Grahams and Jcpenny have
a new collection together and it is a moment where
(01:34):
Ashley Graham is showing that Kirby Girls can do it
all so as a kurvy girl, shout out for that.
Speaker 3 (01:40):
She has a new collection.
Speaker 2 (01:42):
She's been a catalog model actually for jcpenny for many
years and now she is adding a fashion collection. And
she said she wanted to make this collection for the
everyday woman who wants to feel confident, feel bold and
push the limits. And she's excited playing with hemlines, showing
(02:03):
off cleavage, giving some crop tops, some things that she
says you wouldn't usually find in a classic plus size collection.
And so she says that you know, bodies are different
and she wants to have be designing for a lot
of different types of women. Her first collection is retailing
from between thirty dollars and two hundred and eighty dollars
(02:23):
and is now at jcpenny stores and jcpenny dot com.
Speaker 1 (02:28):
Incredible Ashley is kind of back. I've seen her on
the runway in Paris too, so it's like she took
a short break, but she's back and good move on, Jcpenny. Well,
another icon, Celine Dione, keeps her name in the press
for over three decades and so currently she's the face
(02:51):
of Charlotte's, Tilbury's and Stars and in the new new
brand's twenty twenty five holiday campaign. So she's seen on
stage in feathers and sequence with the new fragrance Star Confidence,
which is in the scent is a warm mix of
(03:12):
black currant, oak, moss and petuli and it is in
a like a glittering golden bottle. And she is also
accompanying holiday campaign video for Tilbury's new Charlotte's Magic Gifting
Universe gift Guide. So it looks like that the holiday
season will be exciting. We can start, you know, putting
(03:36):
our shopping list together.
Speaker 2 (03:39):
It is trying to start shopping and come on, Selene
looking amazing, being amazing, how inspirational.
Speaker 3 (03:45):
Love her.
Speaker 2 (03:47):
And the last bit of fashion needs to talk about is,
you know, we are dealing with this government shutdown in
the US and unfortunately it's probably going to have a
big effect in Haiti. You know, they're one stable industry
is truly the garment industry, and unfortunately it is going
to be.
Speaker 3 (04:06):
Affected by this shutdown.
Speaker 2 (04:08):
Now, their textile industry employs more than twenty four eight
hundred people and they export like over five hundred million
dollars in goods to the US usually in you know,
the twelve months through July, and without this trade deal,
you know, the companies that are there are maybe not
(04:28):
going to be able to continue to function and it's difficult.
You know, Haiti is one of the poorest countries in
the Western Hemisphere, and you know, this industry is really
important to them, and so you know, the president of
the Haiti Industrial Association is saying that unfortunately, once these
jobs are lost, it's going to leave fertile ground for
(04:51):
gangs to recruit more people and it's really going to
have a big impact in their security. Now, the American
Apparel and Footwear Association has been trying to get a
tax free deal with Haiti extended, but.
Speaker 3 (05:04):
We do not know if this is going to, you know, happen.
Speaker 2 (05:09):
So you know that I know this government shutdown is
affecting a lot of people, but it is also going
to affect fashion.
Speaker 4 (05:17):
Indeed.
Speaker 2 (05:19):
And that is the end of our Fashion News Alert.
But you know, if you want to keep up to date,
obviously go to fashion refree dot com. I am so
excited to have one of my favorite guests on the show, also,
my friend, associate editor Christopher Fraser. It's here to talk
about his article which is enlightening and interesting about the
(05:44):
demise of fashion publishing.
Speaker 3 (05:46):
Christopher Welcome back.
Speaker 5 (05:48):
Hey, Cecily.
Speaker 4 (05:49):
I had fun filling in for you. My hair was lady, though.
Speaker 3 (05:54):
I know you're wonderful as always.
Speaker 2 (05:59):
Well, your article was very telling, but for people who
haven't had a chance to read it yet, we're going
to fill them in a little bit. So first of all,
tell me what would you describe as the Golden age
of fashion and why was.
Speaker 3 (06:12):
It called that.
Speaker 5 (06:13):
Yeah, I didn't get into the fashion industries until twenty
fourteen about and I spent the first decade of my
career primarily as an editor, and you know, talking to
people that were there for the before nine to eleven
period and watching a lot of like fashion documentaries. The
nineties was really considered the golden era when it came
to fashion publishing and even just being any type of
(06:36):
creative in the fashion space, whether it was design, styling, photography,
like it was also the air of the supermodels, Like
any creative that landed any of those big jaws were
commanding those big money checks.
Speaker 4 (06:50):
Right, so people it would get like an easy.
Speaker 5 (06:52):
Like five to six figures for just a couple of
days of work sometimes. And on top of that, back
then all of those like big megas scenes had so
much money from advertising budget meant nothing.
Speaker 2 (07:10):
Right, So a lot of money was being made and
a lot of money was being spent, and a lot
of fashion was happening.
Speaker 3 (07:16):
It was really like at the forefront.
Speaker 2 (07:19):
So the fashion industry has taken like a real hit
since two thousand and seven, with like advertisising sales and
revenues decreasing. What do you feel like is the cause
of this financial downturn?
Speaker 5 (07:34):
Well, like everything back during the seven eight recession, fashion
of course, and advertising media, it all took a hit,
like every other industry, from finance to even blue collar
jobs like construction, like it was not a good.
Speaker 4 (07:51):
Time for America economically.
Speaker 5 (07:53):
It was the economic crisis America had seen since the
Great Depression. The advantage with seven A compared to the
nineteen thirties was now that they're stronger social safety nets
in place like medicare, snap foodstands, cash assistants, things like
that that you know helped America not and your average
(08:15):
worker not spiraled down as bad into the depths of
poverty as people did during the Great Depression of the
nineteen thirties. But still, like everything, fashion was impacted like
magazines were losing hundreds of ad pages, which meant millions
of dollars in revenue lost, and even post after even
(08:38):
going further back than that, like post nine eleven, New
York was just not the same economically for a while.
Either had an impact on the fashion industry, and even
once it recovered, now came this global economic hit again
that was just affecting everything.
Speaker 2 (08:54):
Now you mentioned a little bit, but specifically there were
some great fashion magazines that have folded since this downturn,
namely dn R, Essential Own Men's, Vogue, Cookie, and Teen
Girl and many others. Could you talk about specifically about
the magazines and the impact.
Speaker 5 (09:14):
Yeah, what we saw in O seven oh eight was cutting.
Acid had cut a lot of publications. I think Cookie
was one of their publications they had cut, and then
they just started shifting more of their focus to like
the flagship titles like Vogue, Vanity Fair of the New Yorker,
which you still see today because those are still even
despite like the decline in magazine revenue advertising, those are
(09:36):
still some of the biggest money makers between events, branding,
digital properties and things like that. Dn R was the
men's essentially the menswear version of Women's Wear Daily and
circa that peer circa that great recession, Peer DNR had folded,
(09:57):
and they just folded men'swear coverage into Women's Were Daily,
So they just gave homes Were Daily a menswear section now,
so it was all just one big trade.
Speaker 4 (10:06):
Business to business type title.
Speaker 5 (10:10):
And then a lot of like the teen magazines, like
I know, I think it was Cosmo Girl was one
of the ones that folded. Teen Vogue still persisted on
in print for a very long time, but a couple
of years ago they had went digital only because we
know most of these kids nowadays are just really online
on TikTok and not picking up print issues. But teen
(10:31):
Vogue is still a very successful property for their parent company,
Cotting Ass, which also obviously owns Vogue and those aforementioned publications.
I had said, like the New York Commanity Fair, but uh,
a couple of years ago we also saw Glamour.
Speaker 4 (10:46):
Close their print issue.
Speaker 5 (10:48):
Which was surprising because at one point that was the
I think had like the second most ad pages or
something after Vogue, or it was like the second most
biggest revenue generator in terms.
Speaker 4 (11:00):
Of magazine ad dollars.
Speaker 5 (11:02):
Sure, the magazine Kingpin and then to see them just
cease print entirely, but they still do have Glamory dot com,
which is still a Conde Nass property.
Speaker 2 (11:13):
Mm hmmm, So it seems like some of the diversity.
I had a Glamour subscription, You're right, and that was it.
There was They were always good act.
Speaker 4 (11:21):
That was a stacked magazine. When Michelle Obama was on
the cover.
Speaker 3 (11:25):
I loved Clamor.
Speaker 2 (11:27):
So yeah, I feel like we've lost we lost some
diversity in the magazines, you know, with the kind of
the downturn, and then also that, you know, the the
trend toward digital. So talking about that, how do you
feel like the social media and the internet is contributing
and decreasing these ad sales and affecting viewership.
Speaker 5 (11:47):
There was a post I saw a couple of years
ago from Philip Paccardy, who was the bounding editor in
chief of Them, which is an LGBT focused conte Nast publication,
and before that he was a I think chief con
officer for teen Vogue and maybe a Lore but he
oversaw several contingent ASK publications during his time in journalism
(12:12):
at conteing ASTs, and he had mentioned how these social
media companies like Facebook started encouraging magazines to like do
more social media and instead of hiring more like editors
for written content and focusing on print, to hire social
media managers and social media directors and things like that
(12:34):
and completely.
Speaker 4 (12:35):
Just pull money away.
Speaker 5 (12:38):
Traditional print revenue and print production, like things like print
production like sheets and stuff, in lieu of doing more
things for social media, doing more content for social media.
And now you see when these like big brands do
advertise with these publications, they it's no longer just like oh,
a print advertisement. They want like a full basically creative
(13:01):
ad package, like they want they want like to be
on a certain number of celebrities for the print shoots,
and then that'll also be stuff that will go in
the their social media channels. They want original digital content,
like they'll essentially have these publications doing the equivalent of
branded advertorials for them, whether it's video or static image
(13:25):
placement for a social media feed. And everything's just gotten
So okay, if we're still doing anything related to anything
in the style of traditional print content, house is also going.
Speaker 4 (13:36):
To translate to social media.
Speaker 5 (13:39):
I think it's done without social media in mind anymore,
Like even it's been a lot of I can tell
you from someone that's also a stylist, getting a lot
of like older photographers who have been in the industry
for a while to move away from black and white
photography because it performs really poorly.
Speaker 4 (13:55):
On social media.
Speaker 5 (13:57):
It's a little challenging, and they just think it's like
it's like so pearl clutching for them to think that
black and white again, because that that's so timeless, that's
supposed to be something. It's like an art form for
photography and to be like, oh no, that's a dying
art form because it doesn't trend on social media anymore.
Speaker 4 (14:16):
Like I ram a stake through their art.
Speaker 2 (14:20):
Well, I mean, I guess, I guess if they want
to work, they're going to keep with the times, with
the social media.
Speaker 4 (14:25):
You know, I'm sure that is very slow to change.
Speaker 3 (14:29):
Sure, but you know, and.
Speaker 2 (14:30):
Then but then the photographers want to do their art,
you know. So well, all of this, I mean is
very it's very fascinating. And so I know you're not,
you know, a fortune teller, but how would you say
that this can be turned around.
Speaker 3 (14:45):
If at all?
Speaker 2 (14:46):
And how what do you think that the great fashion
war horses are going to do or having to do
to survive.
Speaker 5 (14:53):
I think it's going to just continue being a lot
more social and video content. Print I it's probably going
to be treated more like special issue, like there's no
one no one really puts out twelve issues a year anymore,
like even Vogue I think is now down to ten
issues a year. I think we're going to continue to
see that number of print issues per year just decrease,
(15:17):
probably just end up being quarterly issues or just a
couple special issues a year, maybe around things like Okay,
like uh, just September has always been considered the January
and fashion so I think we're always going to see
September issues. Marsh is also a big period for fashion
publications too, because that's when you know the brands are
really trying to showcase the new collections for the season.
(15:39):
March everyone's trying to showcase this spring summer collections for
the next six months. And then September everyen's trying to
showcase the fall winter collections for the next six months.
So I think we're for magazines that are still in print,
they're always going to want to have those two issues.
Speaker 2 (15:57):
Well, I guess people have to innovate innovate and get
with the times, and hopefully we'll still have some gorgeous
editorial spreads and interesting thought provoking articles that we can find.
Speaker 5 (16:10):
You know what I mean, it's going to be People
are always so hungry for content.
Speaker 4 (16:14):
They're always so hungry for more.
Speaker 3 (16:16):
Like yeah yeah.
Speaker 5 (16:17):
People scroll on TikTok before bed, like people are constantly
on Instagram fee it's like waiting for like, ooh, who
posted something next?
Speaker 3 (16:25):
Right right?
Speaker 4 (16:26):
Well, I guess for contents never going anywhere.
Speaker 5 (16:28):
So I think it's just a matter of adaptation, adaptation
and innovation.
Speaker 2 (16:32):
So you know, if you're on that side of the business,
you know what I'm saying, Stay sharp, stay frosty. Well, Christopher,
I adore you, and please if you haven't had a chance,
it is worth a read, very informative, very interesting to
check out Christopher's article. Thank you so much for joining
us this week and for speaking to me always of pleasure.
Speaker 3 (16:56):
See all right, VIBB.
Speaker 1 (17:00):
Well viewers, that's it for this episode of Fashion Reverie Talks.
Speaker 2 (17:05):
We would like to thank our associate editor Christopher Fraser
for appearing on this episode.
Speaker 1 (17:12):
And for information on these and other stories, go to
Fashion Reverie dot com, don't forget to hit the like
and subscribe button. Thanks for watching, and we'll see you
next time.