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November 1, 2024 • 20 mins
First Feast Forensics - Episode 2: Preserving the Harvest: Colonial and Native American Food Storage Methods Welcome back to First Feast Forensics. In our last episode, we explored what was actually served at the first Thanksgiving celebration. Today, we're diving deep into how these foods were preserved by both the colonists and Wampanoag. The successful preservation of food was quite literally a matter of life and death in 17th century New England, and the techniques used tell us fascinating stories about both cultures. The winter of 1620-21 had been devastating for the Plymouth colonists, with nearly half their number perishing. By the time of the first Thanksgiving in autumn 1621, they had learned crucial preservation techniques from the Wampanoag that would help them survive future winters. These methods were far more sophisticated than many people realize, combining both European and Native American expertise. Let's start with smoking, perhaps the most crucial preservation technique used by both cultures. The Wampanoag had developed a complex understanding of different woods and their smoking properties over thousands of years. Hickory was preferred for meat smoking, while cedar and alder were used for fish. The smoke house structures themselves were carefully designed to maintain specific temperature and humidity levels. Archaeological evidence shows that colonial smoking structures gradually evolved to incorporate Native American design elements, creating more effective hybrid preservation systems. The colonists brought their own smoking traditions from England, but these had to be adapted to New World materials and conditions. European smoking techniques typically used cold smoking for bacon and ham, but the different climate and available wood types in New England required new approaches. The fusion of English and Wampanoag smoking methods created unique flavors that would influence American cuisine for generations. The practical differences between English and Wampanoag smoking techniques were substantial. English smokehouses were typically enclosed structures with the fire outside, connected by a flue. The Wampanoag often used more open structures, taking advantage of natural wind patterns and creating different temperature zones for various types of preservation. By the autumn of 1621, the Plymouth settlement had likely developed hybrid smoking structures that combined both approaches. Archaeological evidence from colonial sites reveals the remnants of these smoking structures. Post holes and charred earth patterns show where smokehouses stood, while soil analysis has revealed traces of the woods used. Hickory, oak, and apple wood were commonly employed, each imparting distinct flavors and preservation properties. The colonists quickly learned that different woods produced dramatically different results - something the Wampanoag had known for generations. Drying was another crucial preservation method, particularly for corn, the staple crop that would sustain both communities through winter. The Wampanoag technique for drying corn was remarkably efficient. Corn would be harvested at full maturity, then braided into long strands called corn masses. These would be hung in specialized drying structures that protected the grain from rain while allowing air circulation. The colonists adopted this technique almost immediately, recognizing its superiority to European grain storage methods. Fish drying was perhaps the most sophisticated preservation process used by both cultures. The Wampanoag had perfected a technique of split-drying fish that removed most moisture while preserving nutrients. Fish would be split, cleaned, and dried on specially constructed wooden racks. The height of these racks, their angle to prevailing winds, and even the spacing between fish were all carefully calculated to achieve optimal drying conditions. The colonists combined these native drying techniques with their own salting methods, creating what would become a signature New England product: salt cod. The preservation of cod became so important to the colony's economy that it would eventually become one of their primary trade goods. The technique involved laying split cod in salt for several days before drying, a process that created a product that could last for months or even years. Root cellars represented another fascinating merger of European and Native American technologies. The Wampanoag had long practiced underground storage, particularly for crops like squash and roots. They created sophisticated storage pits lined with bark and dried grass, which could maintain relatively stable temperatures throughout winter. Archaeological excavations have revealed these pits throughout the New England region, many still containing traces of their original contents. The English colonists combined these native storage techniques with their own tradition of root cellars, creating hybrid storage systems that worked better in the
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Episode Transcript

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Speaker 1 (00:00):
First Feast Forensics, Episode two, Preserving the Harvest, Colonial and
Native American food storage methods. Welcome back to First Feast Forensics.
In our last episode, we explored what was actually served
at the First Thanksgiving celebration. Today, we're diving deep into
how these foods were preserved by both the colonists and Wampanoag.
The successful preservation of food was quite literally a matter

(00:21):
of life and death in seventeenth century New England, and
the techniques used tell us fascinating stories about both cultures.
The winner of sixteen twenty twenty one had been devastating
for the Plymouth Colonists, with nearly half their number perishing
by the time of the First Thanksgiving in Autumn sixteen
twenty one. They had learned crucial preservation techniques from the
Wampanoag that would help them survive future winters. These methods

(00:45):
were far more sophisticated than many people realize, Combining both
European and Native American expertise. Let's start with smoking, perhaps
the most crucial preservation technique used by both cultures. The
Wampanoag had developed a complex understand of different woods and
their smoking properties over thousands of years, hickory was preferred

(01:05):
for meat smoking, while cedar and alder were used for fish.
The smokehouse structures themselves were carefully designed to maintain specific
temperature and humidity levels. Archaeological evidence shows that colonial smoking
structures gradually evolved to incorporate Native American design elements, creating
more effective hybrid preservation systems. The colonists brought their own

(01:27):
smoking traditions from England, but these had to be adapted
to New World materials and conditions. European smoking techniques typically
used cold smoking for bacon and ham, but the different
climate and available wood types in New England required new approaches.
The fusion of English and wampanoaggu smoking methods created unique
flavors that would influence American cuisine for generations. The practical

(01:50):
differences between English and Wampanoague smoking techniques were substantial. English
smoke houses were typically enclosed structures, with the fire outside
connected a flu The Wampanoag often used more open structures,
taking advantage of natural wind patterns and creating different temperature zones.

Speaker 2 (02:07):
For various types of preservation.

Speaker 1 (02:09):
By the autumn of sixteen twenty one, the Plymouth Settlement
had likely developed hybrid smoking structures that combined both approaches.
Archaeological evidence from colonial sites reveals the remnants of these
smoking structures. Postholes and charred earth patterns show where smokehouses stood,
while soil analysis has revealed traces of the woods used. Hickory, oak,
and apple wood were commonly employed, each imparting distinct flavors

(02:33):
and preservation properties. The colonists quickly learned that different woods
produced dramatically different results, something the Wampanoag had known for generations.
Drying was another crucial preservation method, particularly for corn, the
staple crop that would sustain both communities through winter. The
Wampanoag technique for drying corn was remarkably efficient. Corn would

(02:55):
be harvested at full maturity, then braided into long strands
called corn masses. These would be hung in specialized drying
structures that protected the grain from rain while allowing air circulation.
The colonists adopted this technique almost immediately, recognizing its superiority
to European grain storage methods. Fish drying was perhaps the
most sophisticated preservation process used by both cultures. The Wampanoagu

(03:19):
had perfected a technique of split drying fish that removed
most moisture while preserving nutrients. Fish would be split, cleaned,
and dried on specially constructed wooden racks. The height of
these racks, their angle to prevailing winds, and even the
spacing between fish were all carefully calculated to achieve optimal
drying conditions. The colonists combined these native drying techniques with

(03:41):
their own salting methods, creating what would become a signature
New England.

Speaker 2 (03:45):
Product, salt cod.

Speaker 1 (03:47):
The preservation of cod became so important to the colony's
economy that it would eventually become one of their primary
trade goods. The technique involved laying split cod and salt
for several days before drying, a process that created a
product that could lasts for months or even years. Root
sellers represented another fascinating merger of European and Native American technologies.

(04:07):
The Wampanoag had long practiced underground storage, particularly for crops
like squash and roots. They created sophisticated storage pits lined
with bark and dried grass, which could maintain relatively stable
temperatures throughout winter. Archaeological excavations have revealed these pits throughout
the New England region. Many still containing traces of their

(04:28):
original contents. The English colonists combined these native storage techniques
with their own tradition of root sellers, creating hybrid storage
systems that worked better in the New England climate than
either approach alone. They learned from the Wampanoagg that certain crops,
like squash and pumpkins would last longer if cured in
the sun before storage. This curing process hardened the outer

(04:50):
skin and improved storage life significantly. One of the most
sophisticated preservation techniques was the making of pemmican, a concentrated
food developed by Native Americans. The Wampanoag taught the colonists
how to prepare this high energy food, which combined dried meat,
rendered fat, and dried berries.

Speaker 2 (05:08):
The meat would be dried.

Speaker 1 (05:09):
Completely, impounded into a powder, then mixed with melted fat
and dried fruits. Properly prepared pemmican could last for years
and provided crucial protein and calories during winter months. The
preservation of fruits and berries presented unique challenges. Without sugar
for traditional European preserving methods, the colonists had to adopt
Native American techniques. Berries would be dried on bark sheets

(05:31):
in the sun, while larger fruits like plums and beech
plums would be dried whole or in strips. The Wampanoag
also taught the settlers how to create fruit leather by
pounding dried fruits into sheets that could be stored for months.
The seasonal timing of preservation activities was crucial to success.
In Plymouth Colony. The preservation cycle began in early spring
with the smoking of winter caught fish. By late spring,

(05:55):
the first greens and berries needed to be dried or processed.
Summer brought an intensive period of fish drying and smoking,
while autumn was perhaps the busiest season for food preservation.
The timing had to be precise. Too early and food
might spoil from humidity. Too late, and frost could damage
the harvest. The Wampanoagg calendar was intricately tied to these

(06:15):
preservation activities. Their language had specific terms for different preservation periods,
words that described not just the time of year, but
the exact conditions needed for different preservation techniques. They understood,
for example, that meat dried during the waning moon would
be less likely to attract insects, a piece of knowledge
they shared with the colonists. The tools used for preservation

(06:37):
tell their own fascinating story. Archaeological excavations have uncovered specialized
cutting tools designed specifically for food preservation work. The Wampanoagg
used stone scrapers with different edge angles for different preservation tasks.
One angle for scraping hides, another for preparing meat for smoking.
The colonists brought metal tools, but often found native designs

(06:59):
more effective for certain tasks. Salt played a complex role
in preservation methods. While the colonists craved salt for their
familiar preservation techniques, they struggled to produce it in sufficient quantities.
The Wampanoag had sophisticated methods for preserving food without salt,
using smoke, air drying, and freeze drying during winter months.

(07:20):
This led to an interesting fusion of techniques. The colonists
began using less salt and incorporating more indigenous preservation methods.
The actual work of preservation was incredibly labor intensive. Smoking
required constant attention to maintain proper temperature and smoke levels.
Drying racks needed regular turning and protection from sudden rain.
Everything had to be checked regularly for signs of spoilage

(07:42):
or pest infestation. Both cultures had developed early warning systems
for detecting food that was beginning to spoil, using sight, smell,
and even sound to identify problems. Early storage structures themselves
represented significant investments of community resources. The Wampanoague built sophisticated
above ground storage facilities called napomis, raised on posts to

(08:06):
protect food from moisture and rodents. These structures featured removable
sides that could be adjusted for ventilation depending on weather conditions.
Archaeological evidence shows that colonial storage structures gradually incorporated these
design elements, creating more effective hybrid buildings. The organization of
preservation work tells us much about both societies. In Wampanoaggue culture,

(08:29):
food preservation was often a communal activity, with specific roles
assigned based on age and experience. Younger members would gather
materials and maintain fires, while more experienced workers handled the
crucial timing decisions. The Colonists, coming from a more individualistic culture,
had to adapt to this communal approach when they realized
its efficiency. Knowledge transfer between generations was crucial for both cultures.

(08:54):
The Wampanoag had sophisticated systems for teaching preservation techniques, with
children beginning to learned through observation and small tasks from
an early age. Colonial records show they quickly adopted this
apprenticeship style system for teaching preservation skills, recognizing that written
instructions couldn't capture the subtleties of proper preservation techniques. Disease

(09:16):
prevention was understood by both cultures, though in different ways.
The Wampanoague had developed careful protocols about handling different types
of food to prevent spoilage. They understood, for instance, that
certain foods couldn't be dried together, and that some smoking
woods could make people sick. The colonists combined this knowledge
with their own understanding of food spoilage, creating new hybrid

(09:38):
safety protocols, and temperature control was crucial for successful preservation.
Both cultures had developed sophisticated understanding of microclimates and airflow patterns.
Storage structures were carefully positioned to take advantage of natural
temperature regulation. The Wampanoag taught the colonists how to use
earth burming and natural landforms to create temperature stable storage areas,

(10:00):
a technique that proved more effective than European root seller designs.
In the New England climate, The success or failure of
preservation methods directly impacted daily cooking practices throughout the year.
Both cultures developed sophisticated cooking techniques, specifically for preserved foods.
The Wampanoag had perfected methods of rehydrating dried foods that

(10:20):
preserved maximum nutrition, while the colonists contributed European techniques for
cooking with salted and smoked ingredients. This fusion created many
of the classic New England dishes that would persist for generations.
Preserved foods required different cooking times and methods than fresh ingredients.
The colonists learned from the Wampanoag that dried corn needed
to be rehydrated in wood ash solution to make it

(10:43):
more digestible and nutritious, a process called nixtemolization. They also
learned techniques for rehydrating dried meat and fish that prevented
the loss of precious fats and nutrients. These methods were
crucial for maintaining health during winter months when fresh food
was scarce. The psychological impact of food preservation success or
failure was significant. Colonial diaries record both the anxiety surrounding

(11:06):
preservation activities and the relief when techniques proved successful. The
Wampanoag approach to preservation included spiritual elements, specific ceremonies and
practices believed to protect food stores. While the colonists might
not have adopted these spiritual practices, they certainly understood the
gravity of preservation work. Failed preservation attempts could be catastrophic.

(11:28):
Both cultures had developed early warning systems for detecting spoilage
and multiple backup preservation methods. If smoking wasn't proving effective
due to weather conditions, food might be switched to drying
or for the colonist's salting. Archaeological evidence shows that some
storage pits contain signs of multiple preservation techniques being used

(11:48):
on the same foods, a kind of prehistoric food safety
redundancy system. The social aspects of preservation work created lasting
cultural bonds. Many preservation tasks required multiple people working together,
leading to knowledge exchange and social bonding. Colonial records mentioned
preservation work being done alongside Wampanoag neighbors, with techniques and

(12:10):
tips being shared. These interactions helped build the cooperation and
trust that was crucial for both communities' survival. The preservation
techniques developed during this period had a lasting impact on
American cuisine that extends well into modern times. Many classic
New England dishes originated from the necessity of using preserved
foods during winter months. The famous Saturday night baked beans tradition,

(12:32):
for instance, evolved from the practice of cooking preserved beans
with smoked pork, a dish that could be left in
brick ovens overnight. These early preservation methods also influenced architectural
design and colonial America. Many traditional New England homes included
specialized spaces for food preservation, smoke houses, drying lofts, and
root sellers. These architectural features became so standard that they

(12:55):
influenced home design well into the nineteenth century. Archaeological evidence
shows the gradual evolution of these spaces as they were
refined and improved over generations. The impact on trade and
commerce was equally significant. The preservation techniques learned and developed
in Plymouth Colony became crucial for New England's economic development.

(13:16):
Salt cod preserved using a combination of European and Native
American techniques, became a valuable trade commodity. The success of
these preservation methods helped establish New England as a major
maritime trading region. The relationship between preserved foods and community
health became well understood during this period. Both cultures recognized
that a diverse array of preserved foods was crucial for

(13:38):
winter survival. The wampanoag knew that different preservation methods retained
different nutrients, and their preservation strategy involved maintaining a balance
of foods preserved in various ways. Colonial records show they
quickly adopted this holistic approach to food preservation. The seasonal
rhythm of preservation work shaped colonial society and lasting ways.

(14:00):
The timing of community events, religious services, and even military
activities had to be coordinated around crucial preservation periods. This
pattern influenced the development of New England's social calendar, with
many traditional community events timed to coincide with different preservation activities.
While neither the colonists nor the Womponoaggue understood the microscopic

(14:21):
reasons why their preservation methods worked, they had developed remarkably
accurate empirical understanding through generations of observation. The smoking process
we now know creates an environment hostile to bacteria while
depositing antimicrobial compounds on the food's surface. The Womponoague's careful
selection of smoking woods unconsciously maximized these beneficial compounds. The

(14:43):
science behind drying methods was equally sophisticated, though understood through
experience rather than microbiology. Both cultures had learned that successful
drying required precise control of humidity and airflow. The Wampanoag
technique of building drying racks at specific heights and angle
maximized airflow while minimizing exposure to morning dew, factors we

(15:04):
now know are crucial for preventing mold growth. Salt preservation,
favored by the colonists, worked through dehydration and creating an
inhospitable environment for bacteria. The Wampanoag's alternative preservation methods, such
as smoke drying and freeze drying, achieved similar results through
different mechanisms. Modern food science has validated many of these
traditional techniques, confirming their effectiveness at preventing bacterial growth and

(15:29):
preserving nutrients. Temperature control in storage spaces was managed with
remarkable precision, despite the lack of modern measuring tools. Root
cellars and storage pits maintained temperatures just above freezing through
careful use of earth burming and ventilation. Archaeological evidence shows
that these structures consistently achieved temperatures between thirty two to
forty degrees fahrenheit zertifore degrees celsius, ideal for preserving root

(15:54):
vegetables and preventing spoilage. The biochemistry of fermentation was another
preservation method that understood through observation rather than science. Both
cultures utilized controlled fermentation, though in different ways. The wampanoagg
had sophisticated techniques for fermenting certain foods, while the colonists
brought European fermentation traditions. The acidic environment created by fermentation

(16:18):
naturally preserved foods while creating beneficial probiotics. The legacy of
these early preservation methods extends into modern times in surprising ways.
Many traditional New England food producers still use smoking and
drying techniques that can be traced directly back to this
colonial period. Small batched smokehouses in Maine and Massachusetts continue
to use specific wood combinations first documented in colonial times,

(16:41):
producing distinct flavors that.

Speaker 2 (16:42):
Haven't changed in centuries.

Speaker 1 (16:44):
Modern food scientists have been increasingly studying these traditional preservation methods,
finding applications for contemporary food security challenges. The Wampanoagg technique
of using specific wood types for smoking different foods has
inspired research into natural preservation compounds. Some of these traditional
methods are being adapted for use in modern food preservation,

(17:05):
particularly as consumers seek alternatives to artificial preservatives. The energy
efficiency of traditional storage methods has gained new relevance in
our era of climate change. The passive cooling systems used
in colonial root sellers and Native American storage pits required
no external energy input yet maintained stable temperatures year round.
These designs are now being studied by sustainable architecture firms

(17:29):
looking to reduce the energy costs of food storage. Even
NASA has shown interest in these historical preservation techniques. The
challenge of preserving food for long term space missions has
led researchers to study traditional methods of drying and smoking
that maintain nutritional value without requiring refrigeration. The Wampanoague technique
for creating pemmican in particular, has influenced the development of

(17:52):
modern emergency rations and space food. The cultural practices surrounding
food preservation have also experienced a revival. Community canning days,
though using more modern methods echo the communal preservation activities
of colonial times. Farming cooperatives and food preservation groups often
unconsciously mirror the social structures that made preservation possible in

(18:15):
early New England. As we've explored today, the preservation methods
developed during the colonial period represented more than just survival techniques.
They were a sophisticated fusion of two distinct cultural approaches
to food security. The success of Plymouth Colony, and indeed
much of early New England, depended on the willingness of
both colonists and Native Americans to share and adapt their

(18:36):
preservation knowledge. Understanding these historical preservation methods gives us valuable
insights into both cultures. The precision and sophistication of their techniques,
developed without modern scientific instruments or understanding, demonstrates remarkable powers
of observation and experimentation. These weren't primitive methods, but rather
refined systems developed over generations of careful practice. The collaboration

(19:01):
between Native American and European preservation techniques also offers an
important lesson in cultural adaptation. Rather than rigidly maintaining their
separate methods, both groups proved willing to learn from each other,
creating hybrid techniques that worked better than either tradition alone.
This flexibility and openness to new ideas quite literally meant
the difference between survival and starvation. Today, as we face

(19:24):
new challenges in food security and preservation, these historical methods
take on renewed relevance. From sustainable food storage to natural
preservation techniques. The solutions developed by our ancestors may help
guide us toward more sustainable and effective ways of preserving
food in the future. In our next episode, we'll explore
the medicinal uses of preserved foods in both Native American

(19:45):
and colonial traditions, and how certain preservation methods were believed
to enhance the therapeutic properties of various plants and herbs.
Thank you for joining me today on First Feast Forensics.
Until next time, keep exploring the true stories behind our
food traditions. This has been a quiet Please production. Head
over to Quiet Please dot a I to hear what matters.
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