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Chapter fifteen. At noon of Sunday, the sixth of July, the fiesta
exploded. There's no other way todescribe it. People had been coming in
all day from the country, butthey were assimilated in the town and you
did not notice them. The squarewas as quiet and the hot sun as
on any other day. The peasantswere in the outlying wine shops. There
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they were drinking, getting ready forthe fiesta. They had come in so
recently from the plains and the hillsthat it was necessary that they make their
shifting and values gradually. They couldnot start in paying cafe prices. They
got their money's worth in the wineshops. Money still had a definite value,
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and hours worked and bushels of grainssold late in the fiesta, it
would not matter what they paid,nor were they bought. Now, on
the day of the starting of theFiesta of San Fermin, they had been
in the wine shops of the narrowstreets of the town since early morning.
Going down the streets in the morning, on the way to mass in the
cathedral, I heard them singing throughthe open doors of the shops. They
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were warming up. There were manypeople at the eleven o'clock Mass. San
fermin is also a religious festival.I walked down the hill from the cathedral
and up the street to the cafeon the square. It was a little
before noon. Robert Cone and Billwere sitting at one of the tables.
The marble top tables and the whitewicker chairs were gone. They were replaced
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by cast iron tables and severe foldingchairs. The cafe was like a battleship
stripped for action today. The waitersdid not leave you alone all morning to
read without asking if you wanted toorder something. A waiter came up as
soon as I sat down. Whatare you drinking? I asked Bill,
and Robert Cherry Cone said Chad asI said to the waiter. Before the
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waiter brought the sherry. The rocketthat announced the fiesta went up in the
square. It burst, and therewas a great ball of smoke high up
about the theater Gayarre across on theother side of the plaza. The ball
of smoke hung in the sky likea shrapnel burst, and as I watched,
another rocket came up to it,trickling smoke in the bright sunlight.
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I saw the bright flash as itburst, and another little cloud of smoke
appeared. By the time the secondrocket had burst. There were so many
people in the arcade that had beenempty a minute before that the waiter,
holding the bottle high up over hishead, could hardly get through the crowd
to our table. People were cominginto the square from all sides. Down
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the street, we heard the pipesand the fifes and the drums coming.
They were playing the rio rio music, the pipe shrill and the drums pounding.
Behind them came the man and boysdancing. When the fifers stopped,
they all crouched down in the street, And when the reed pipes and the
fife's shrill and the flat, dryhollow drums tapped it out again, they
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all went up in the air dancingin the crowd. He saw only the
heads and shoulders of the dancers goingup and down and the square. A
man bent over was playing on areed pipe, and a crowd of children
were following him, shouting and pullingat his clothes. He came out of
the square, the children following him, and piped them past the cafe and
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down a side street. We sawhis blank, pock marked face as he
went by, piping, the childrenclose behind him, shouting and pulling at
him. You must be the villageidiot. Bill said, my god,
look at that. Down the streetcame dancers. The street was solid with
dancers, all men. They wereall dancing in time behind their own fifers
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and drummers. They were a clubof some sort, and all wore workmen's
blue smocks and red handkerchiefs around theirnecks, and carried a great banner on
two poles. The banner danced upand down with them as they came down,
rounded by the crowd. Hooray forwine, Hooray for the foreigners,
was painted on the banner. Whereare the foreigners? Robert Cone asked,
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we're the foreigners, Bill said.All the time, rockets were going up.
The cafe tables were all full.Now the square was emptying of people,
and the crowd was filling the cafes. Where's Breton, Mike bi lest
I'll go and get them, Conesaid, bring them here. The fiesta
was really started. It kept upday and night for seven days. The
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dancing kept up, the drinking keptup, the noise went on. The
things that happened could only have happenedduring a fiesta. Everything became quite unreal.
Finally, and it seemed as thoughnothing could have any consequences. It
seemed out of place to think ofconsequences during the fiesta. Or during the
fiesta, you had the feeling,even when it was quiet, that you
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had to shout any remark to makeit heard. Is the same feeling about
any action. Was a fiesta andit went on for seven days. That
afternoon was the big religious procession.San Fermin was translated from one church to
another. In the procession were allthe dignitaries, civil and religious. We
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could not see them because the crowdwas too great. Ahead of the formal
procession and behind it as the rialRiao dancers, there was one mass of
Yellow Shirts dancing up and down inthe crowd. All we could see of
the procession through the closely pressed peoplethat crowded all the side streets and curbs
were the great giants, cigar storeIndians thirty feet high Moors, a king
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and queen, whirling and waltzing solemnlyto the rial riau the ear all standing
outside the chapel where San Fermin andthe dignitaries had passed in, leaving a
guard of soldiers. The giants withthe men who danced in them standing beside
their resting frames, and the dwarfsmoving with their whacking bladders through the crowd.
We started inside, and there wasa smell of incense and people filing
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back into the church. But Brettwas stopped just inside the door because she
had no hat. So we wentout again and along the street. They
ran back from the chapel into town. The street was lined on both sides,
with people keeping their place at thecurb for the return of the procession.
Some dancers formed a circle around Brettand started to dance. They wore
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big wreaths of white garlics around theirnecks. They took Bill and me by
the arms and put us in thecircle. Bill started to dance too.
They were all chanting. Brett wantedto dance, but they did not want
her to. They wanted her asan image to dance around. When the
song ended with the sharp real rial, they rushed us into a wine shop.
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We stood at the counter. Theyhad Brett seated on a wine cask.
It was dark in a wine shopand full of men singing hard voice
singing back of the counter. Theydrew the wine from cask. I put
down money for the wine, butone of the men picked it up and
put it back in my pocket.I want a leather wine bottle. Bill
said, there is a place downthe street. I said, I'll go
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get a couple. The dancers didnot want me to go out. Three
of them were sitting on the highwine cast beside Brett, teaching her to
drink out of the wine skins.They had hung a wreath of garlics around
her neck. Some one insisted ongiving her a glass. Somebody was teaching
Bill as song, singing it intohis ear, beating time on Bill's back.
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I explained to them that I wouldbe back outside in the street.
I went down the street looking forthe shop that made leather wine bottles.
The crowd was packed on the sidewalksand many of the shops were shuttered,
and I could not find it.I walked as far as the church,
looking on both sides at the street. Then I asked a man, and
he took me by the arm andled me to it. The shutters were
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up, but the door was open. Inside it smelled a fresh tan leather
and hut. The man who wastensiling completed wine skins. They hung up
from the roof and bunches. Hetook one down, blew it up,
screwed the nozzle tight, and thenjumped on it. See it doesn't leak.
I want another one, too,A big one. He took down,
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a big one that would hold agallon or more from the roof.
He blew it up, his cheekspuffing ahead of the wine skin, and
stood on the boat, holding onto a chair. What are you going
to do? Sell them in beyond? No drink out of them? He
slapped me on the back. Goodman, eight piseetus for the two,
the lowest price. The man whowas tensiling the new ones and tossing them
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into a pile stopped. It's true, he said, eight piseetus is cheap.
I paid and went out and alongthe street back to the wine shop
was darker than ever inside and verycrowded. I did not see Bretton build,
and someone said they were in theback room. At the counter,
the girl filled the two wineskins forme. One held two meters, the
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other held five liters. Fill inthem. Both costs three piseetas sixty centimos.
Someone at the counter that I hadnever seen before tried to pay for
the wine, but I finally paidfor it myself. The man who wanted
to pay then bought me a drink. He would not let me buy one
in return, but said he wouldtake a rinse of the mouth from the
new wine bag. He tipped thebig five liter bag up and squeezed it
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so the wine hissed against the backof his throat. All right, he
said, and handed back the bag. In the back room, Bret and
Bill were sitting on barrels, surroundedby the dancers. Everybody had his arms
on everybody else's shoulders, and theywere all singing. Mike was sitting at
a table with several men in theirshirt sleeves, eating from a bowl of
tuna, fish, chopped onions andvinegar. They were all drinking wine and
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mopping up the oil and vinegar withpieces of bread. Hello, Jake,
Hello, Mike, Call, comehere. I want you to meet my
friends. We're all having an asdrug. I was introduced the people at the
table. They supplied their names toMike and sent for a fork for me.
Stop eating their dinner, Michael Brettshouted from the wine barrels. I
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don't want to eat up your meal, I said, when someone handed me
a fork, eat. He said, what do you think it's here for?
I unscrewed the nozzle of the bigwine bottle and handed it around.
Everyone took a drink, tipping thewine skin at arm's length. Outside,
above the singing, we could hearthe music of the procession going by.
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Isn't that the procession? Mike asked? Nada said someone it's nothing. Drink
up, lift the bottle. Wheredid they find you, I asked Mike.
Someone brought me here. Mike said, they said you were here.
Where's Kohane? He's passed out.Brett called, they put him away somewhere.
Where is he? I don't know? How should we know? Bill
said, I think he's dead.He's not dead. Mike said, I
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know he's not dead. He's justpassed out on Anis del mono, as
he said, anis de mono.One of the men at the table looked
up, brought out a bottle frominside his smock and handed it to me.
No I said, no, thanks, yes, yes, Ariva up
with a bottle. I took adrink. It tasted of licorice and warmed
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all the way. I could feelit warming in my stomach. Where the
hell is Cone? I don't know. Mike said, I'll ask where is
the drunken comrade? He asked inSpanish? You want to see him?
Yes, I said, not me, said Mike, this gent the anis
del mono. Man wiped his mouthand stood up. Come on. In
a back room, Robert Cone wassleeping quietly on some wine. Casts was
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almost too dark to see his face. They had covered him with a coat,
and another coat was folded under hishead. Around his neck, and
on his chest was a big wreathof twisted garlics. Let him sleep,
the man whispered, he's all right. Two hours later Kane appeared. He
came into the front room, stillwith the wreath of garlics around his neck.
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The Spaniard shouted when he came in. Kane wiped his eyes and grinned.
I must have been sleeping. Hesaid, oh, not at all.
Brett said, you are only dead. Bill said, aren't we going
to go and have some supper?Koan asked, do you want to eat?
Yes? Why not? I'm hungryeat those garlics, Robert. Mike
said, I say, do eatthose garlics. Coane stood there. His
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sleep had made him quite all right. Do let's go and eat. Brett
said, I must get a bath. Come on, Bill said, let's
translate Brett to the hotel. Wesaid good bye to many people, and
shook hands with many people and wentout outside. It was dark. What
time is it do you suppose?Koan asked, it's tomorrow. Mike said,
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you've been asleep two days. No, said Kan, what time is
it? It's ten o'clock. Whata lot we've drunk? Give me,
what a lot we've drunk? Youwent to sleep. Going down the dark
streets to the hotel, we sawthe skyrockets going up in the square.
Down the side streets that led tothe square, we saw the square solid
with people, those in the centerall dancing. It was a big meal
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at the hotel. It was thefirst meal of the prices being doubled for
the fiesta, and there were severalnew courses. After the dinner, we
were out in the town. Iremember resolving that I would stay up all
night to watch the bulls go throughthe streets at six o'clock in the morning,
and being so sleepy that I wentto bed around four o'clock. The
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others stayed up. My own roomwas locked and I could not find the
key. So I went upstairs andslip on one of the beds in Cohn's
room. The fiesta was going onoutside in the night, but I was
too sleepy for it to keep meawake. When I woke, it was
the sound of the rocket exploding thatannounced the release of the bulls from the
corrals at the edge of town.They would race through these streets and out
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to the bull ring. I'd beensleeping heavily, and I woke feeling I
was too late. I put ona coat of cones and went out on
the balcony down below. The narrowstreet was empty. All the balconies were
crowded with people. Suddenly a crowdcame down the street. They were all
running packed close together. They passedalong and up the street toward the bull
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ring, and behind them came moremen running faster, and then some stragglers
who were really running. Behind themwas a little bare space, and then
the bulls galloping, tossing their headsup and down. It all went out
of sight around the corner. Oneman fell, rolled to the gutter and
lay quiet, but the bulls wentright on and did not notice him.
They were all running together. Afterthey went out of sight, a great
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roar came from the bull ring.They kept on, and then finally the
pop of the rocket that meant thebulls had gotten through the people in the
ring and into the corrals. Iwent back to the room and got into
bed. I've been standing on thestone balcony and bare feet. I knew
our crowd must have all been outat the bull ring. Back I went
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to sleep. Cone woke me whenhe came in. He started to undress
and went over and closed the windowbecause the people on the balcony of the
house just across the street were lookingin. Did you see the show?
I asked, yes, we wereall there. Anybody get hurt? One
of the bulls got into the crowdin the ring and tossed six or eight
people. How did Brett like it? It was all so sudden, there
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wasn't any time for it to botheranybody. I wish I'd been up.
We didn't know where you were.We went to your room, but it
was locked. Where did you stayup? We danced at some club.
I got sleepy. I said,my gosh, I'm sleepy now. Con
said, doesn't this thing ever stop? Not for a week? Bill opened
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the door and put his head inWhere were you, Jake? I saw
them go through from the balcony.How was it ran? Where are you
going to sleep? No one wasup Before noon. We ate at table
set out under the arcade. Thetown was full of people. We had
to wait for a table. Afterlunch we went over to the airuna.
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It had filled up, and asthe time for the bullfight came, it
got fuller and the tables were crowdedcloser. It was a close, crowded
hum that came every day before thebullfight. The cafe did not make the
same noise at any other time,no matter how crowded it was. This
hum went on and we were init and a part of it. I'd
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taken six seats for all the fights. Three of them were bereas the first
row at the ringside, and threewere souvripuertos seats with wooden backs half way
up to the amphitheater. Mike thoughtBrett had best sit high up for her
first time, and Cone wanted tosit with them. Bill and I were
going to sit in the bereas,and I gave the extra ticket to a
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waiter to sell. Bill said somethingto Kohan about what to do and how
to look so he would not mindthe word horses. Bill had seen one
season of bullfights. I'm not worriedabout how I'll stand it. I'm only
afraid I may be bored. Coinsaid, you think so. Don't look
at the horses after the bull hitsthem, I said to Brett, watch
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the charge and see the picador tryand keep the bull off, but then
don't look again until the horse isdead if it's been hit. I'm a
little nervy about it, Brett said, I'm worried whether I'll be able to
go through with it. All right, You'll be all right. There's nothing
but that horse part that will botheryou, and they're only in for a
few minutes with each bull. Justdon't watch when it's bad. She'll be
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all right. Mike said, I'lllook after her. I don't think you'll
be bored. Bill said, I'mgoing over to the hotel to get the
glasses and the wine skin. Isaid, see you back here. Don't
get cock guyed or come alone,Bill said. Brett smiled at us.
We walked around through the arcade toavoid the heat of the square cone gets
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me. Bill said, he's gotthis Jewish superiority, so strong that he
thinks the only emotion he'll get outof the fight will be being bored.
We'll watch him with the glasses.I said, oh, to hell with
him. He spends a lot oftime there. I want him to stay
there. In the hotel. Onthe stairs, we met Montoya. Come
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on, said Montoya, do youwant to meet Pedro Romero? Fine,
said Bill, Let's go see him. We followed Montoya up a flight and
down the corridor. He's a roomnumber eight, Montoya explained, he's getting
dressed for the bull fight. Montoyaknocked on the door and opened it.
Who's a gloomy room with a littlelight coming in from the window on the
narrow street. There were two bedsseparated by a monastic partition. The electric
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light was on. The boy stoodvery straight and unsmiling in his bullfighting clothes.
His jacket hung over the back ofa chair. You were just finishing
winding his sash. His black hairshown under the electric light. He wore
a white linen shirt, and thesword handler finished his sash and stood up
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and stepped back. Pedro Romero nodded, seemed very far away and dignified.
When we shook hands. Montoya saidsomething about what great officiatos we were,
and that we wanted to wish himluck. Romero listened very seriously, and
he turned to me. He wasthe best looking boy I've ever seen.
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You go to the bullfight, hesaid in English? You know English?
I said, feeling like an idiot, No, he answered, and smiled.
One of three men who had beensitting on the beds came up and
asked us if we spoke French,would you like me to interpret for you?
Is there anything you would like toask Pedro Romero? We thanked him.
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What was there that you would liketo ask? The boy was nineteen
years old, alone except for asword handler, and the three hangar was
on and the bullfight was to commencein twenty minutes. We wished him mucha
suerte, shook hands and went out. He was standing straight and handsome and
all together by himself, alone inthe room with the hangers on. As
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we shut the door, it's afine boy, don't you think, Montoy
asked. He's a good looking kid. I said, he looks like a
Torrero. Montoya said, he isthe type. He's a fine boy.
We'll see how he is in thering, Montoya said, we found the
big leather wine bottle leaning against thewall in my room. Took it and
the field glasses, locked the doorand went downstairs. It was a good
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bullfight. Bill and I were veryexcited about Pedro Romero. Montoya was sitting
about ten places away. After Romerohad killed his first bull, Montoya caught
my eye and nodded his head.This was a real one. There had
not been a real one for along time. Of the other two matadors,
one was very fair and the otherwas passable, but there was no
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comparison with Romero, although neither ofhis bulls was much. Several times during
the bullfight, I looked up atMike and Brent and Kohane with the glasses.
They seemed to be all right.Brett did not look upset. All
three were leaning forward on the concreterailing in front of them. Let me
take the glasses, Bill said.Does Cone looked bored. I asked that
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Kike outside the ring. After thebullfight was over, you could not move
in the crowd. We could notmake our way through, but had to
be moved with the whole thing slowlyas a glacier back to town. We
had that disturbed emotional feeling that alwayscomes after a bullfight, and the feeling
of elation that comes after a goodbullfight. The fiesta was going on.
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The drums pounded, and the pipemusic was shrill, and everywhere the flow
of the crowd was broken by patchesof dancers. The dancers were in a
so you did not see the intricateplay of the feet. What you saw
was the heads and shoulders going upand down, up and down. Finally
we got out of the crowd andmade for the cafe. The waiters saved
chairs for the others, and weeach ordered an absente and watched the crowd
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in the square and the dancers.What do you suppose that dance? Is
Bill last, It's a sort ofhalta. They're not all the same,
Bill said, They danced differently toall the different tunes. It's swelled dancing.
In front of us, on aclear part of the street, a
company of boys were dancing. Thesteps were very intricate, and their faces
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were intent and concentrated. They alllooked down while they danced. Their rope
soled shoes tapped and spat it onthe pavement. The toes touched the heels
touched, the balls of the feettouched. Then the music broke wildly,
and the step was finished, andthey were all dancing on up the street.
Here come the gentry Bill said.They were crossing the street. Hullo
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man, I said, hello,gents, said Brett, you saved the
seats. How nice, I say. Mike said that Romero, what's his
name? Is somebody? Am Iwrong? Oh? Isn't he lovely?
Brett said? And those green trousers. Brett never took her eyes off them.
I say, I must borrow yourglasses tomorrow. How did it go?
Wonderfully, simply perfect? I say, it is a spectacle. How
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about the horses? I couldn't helplooking at them. She couldn't take their
eyes off them. Mike said,she's an extraordinary wench. They do have
some rather awful things happened to them. Brett said, I couldn't look away,
though. Did you feel all right? I didn't feel badly at all?
Robert Cone did? Mike put in, you were quite green? Robert
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the first horse did bother me?Cones said you weren't bored? Were you?
Asked? Bill Cone laughed, No, I wasn't bored. I wish
you'd forgive me that. It's allright, Bill said, so long as
you weren't bored. He didn't lookbored. Mike said, I thought he
was going to be sick. Inever felt that bad. It was just
for a minute I thought he wasgoing to be sick. You weren't bored,
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were you? Robert let up onthat. Mike, I said,
I was sorry. I said it. He was. You know, he
was positively green. Oh shove italong, Michael. You mustn't ever get
bored at your first bull fight,Robert. Mike said, it might make
such a mess. Oh shove italong, Michael. Brett said. He
said Brett was a satist. Mikesaid, Brett's not a satus. She's
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just a lovely, healthy wench.Are you a satist? Brett? I
asked, hope not. He saidBrett was a satus just because she has
a good, healthy stomach won't behealthy. Long, Bill got Mike started
on something else than Kohane. Thewaiter brought the absent glasses. Did you
really like it? Bill ask Cone. No, I can't say I liked
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it. Think it's a wonderful show. Gad yes, what a spectacle.
Brett said, I wish they didn'thave the horse part. Coen said,
they're not important. Bill said,after a while, you never notice anything
disgusting. It is a bit strong. Just at the start. Brett said,
there's a dreadful moment for me,just when the bull starts for the
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horse. The bulls were fine.Cone said they were very good. Mike
said, I want to sit downbelow next time. Brett drank from her
glass of absent. She wants tosee the bull fighters close by. Mike
said they are something. Brett saidthat Romero lad is just a child.
He's a damned good looking boy.I said when we were up in his
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room, I never saw a betterlooking kid. How old do you suppose
he is? Nineteen or twenty?Just imagine it. The bull fight on
the second day was much better thanon the first. Brett sat between Mike
and me at the barana and Billand Cone went up above. Romero was
the whole show. I do notthink Brett saw any other bull fighter.
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No one else did either, exceptthe hard shelled technicians. It's all Romero.
There were two other matadors, butthey did not count. I sat
beside Brett and explained to Brett whatit was all about. I told her
about watching the bull, not thehorse. When the bulls charged the picadors.
Got her to watching the piccador placethe point of his pick, so
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that she saw what it was allabout, so that it became more something
that was going on with the definiteend, less of a spectacle with unexplained
horrors. I had her watch howRomero took the bull away from a fallen
horse with his cape, and howhe held him with a cape and turned
him smoothly and suavely, never wastingthe bull. She saw how Romero avoited
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every brusque movement and saved his bullsfor the last when he wanted them,
not winded and decomposed, but smoothlyworn down. She saw how close Romero
always worked to the bull, andI pointed out to her the tricks that
other bullfighters used to make it lookas though they were working closely. She
saw why she liked Romero's capework,why she did not like the others.
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Romero never made any contortions. Alwaysit was straight and pure and natural in
line. The others twisted themselves likecorkscrews, their elbows raised and leaned against
the flanks of the bull after hishorns had passed to give a faked look
of danger. Afterward, all thatwas fake turned bad and gave an unpleasant
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feeling. Romero's bullfighting gave real emotionbecause he kept the absolute purity of line
in his movements and always quietly andcalmly let the horns pass them close.
Each time, he did not haveto emphasize their closeness. Brett saw how
something that was beautiful done close tothe bull was ridiculous if it were done
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a little way off. I toldher how since the death of Josolito,
all the bullfighters had been developing atechnic that similar related this appearance of danger
in order to give a fake emotionalfeel while the bullfighter was really safe.
Romera had the old thing, theholding of his purity of line through the
maximum of exposure while he dominated thebull by making him realize he was unattainable
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while he prepared him for the killing. I've never seen him do an awkward
thing. Brett said, you won'tuntil he gets frightened. I said,
he'll never be frightened. Mike said, he knows too damn much. He
knew everything when he started. Theothers can't ever learn what he was born
with? God, what looks?Brett said, I believe you know that
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she's falling in love with his bullfighterchap, Mike said, I wouldn't be
surprised. Be a good chap,Jake. Don't tell her anything more about
him. Tell her how they beattheir old mothers. Tell me what drunks
they are, Oh frightful, Mikesaid, drunk all day and spend all
their time beating their poor old mothers. He looks that way, Brett said,
doesn't he? I said. Theyhad hitched the mules to the dead
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bull, and then the whips cracked, The men ran, and the mules,
straining forward their legs pushing, brokeinto a gallop, and the bull,
one horn up, his head onits side, swept a swath smoothly
across the sand and out the redgate. This next is the last one,
Not really, Brett said. Sheleaned forward on the barrera. Romero
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waved his piccadors to their places,then stood his cape against his chest,
looking across the ring to where thebull would come out. After it was
over, we went out and werepressed tight in the crowd. These bull
fights are hell on one, Brettsaid, I'm limp as a rag.
Oh you'll get a drink, Mikesaid. The next day, Pedro Romero
(29:48):
did not fight. It was Muurabulls in a very bad bull fight.
The next day there was no bullfight scheduled, but all day and all
night the fiesta kept on. Endof Chapter fifteen.