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January 8, 2025 13 mins
Ready to discover Detroit’s best kept secrets? Join expert traveler Darley Newman to step inside the art deco masterpiece, the “Cathedral of Finance,” at the Guardian Building. Explore nature trails and go birdwatching at the Detroit River International Wildlife Refuge. Dine in a repurposed firehouse and bike along the scenic RiverWalk to shop for local goods at the historic Eastern Market. Whether you’re a local or a first-time visitor, this episode offers a fresh perspective on Detroit’s unexpected mix of wildlife, architecture, and culture. Dive in for hidden gems and expert tips, stories, and a new appreciation for the Motor City.
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(00:00):
When I was in Detroit, Michigan, I spoke with a lot of locals who didn't even know about the Detroit River

(00:05):
International Wildlife Refuge. It's the only international wildlife refuge in North America,
and a place where you can truly step away from the city. Detroit is known as the Motor City
and for the sounds of Motown, but in this podcast, we're sharing places and experiences that
may surprise even the most intrepid local. We're stepping inside the stunning art deco Cathedral

(00:29):
of Finance at the Guardian Building. Wow, this is spectacular. Absolutely.
Birdwatching at the Detroit River International Wildlife Refuge. There's a Great blue heron.
And a Great blue heron. Biking to see street art and visit an over 150-year-old
thriving local market and dining in a former firehouse. It's the Travels with Darley podcast,

(00:51):
where we take you off the beaten path with locals as the guides to discover what's unique and special
about locations across the USA and around the world. In this episode, we're experiencing lesser-known
Detroit. We're starting in Downtown Detroit, where I recommend exploring these city blocks on two

(01:14):
feet. Make it a point not only to look up, but to perhaps go inside a few buildings with notable
architecture, like the Guardian Building. Davy Webb of City Tour Detroit shows me around this
ornate structure that takes my breath away as I step inside. Wow, this is spectacular. Absolutely.

(01:37):
There are elaborate mosaics on the ceilings of the grand hall. Every inch of architecture is
intricately designed. Well, welcome into the promenade of the Guardian Building.
The Guardian Building is an art deco masterpiece skyscraper built in 1929 for a bank.

(01:57):
Wow, this is amazing. Mm-hmm. It was designed by an architect named Wirt C. Rowland, who was a Michigan boy.
He was given basically a blank check, and he filled this space with the finest materials and
craftsmanship available from all across the globe. He contacted the Tiffany Company, Tiffany Jewelers

(02:18):
and Tiffany Glass, to build the twin clocks behind us, two of only four left on the entire planet.
Wow. Originally in 1929 when the bank opened, this hall would have been filled with 40 tellers
doing the work of the day, and the ceiling here is made out of canvas and horse hair to absorb
the sound of their work. He used marble from Italy and North Africa and Belgium, some of which

(02:43):
no longer exists. It's all been quarried out. This beautiful fresco here done by Ezra Winter,
another Michigan boy from Traverse City, depicts a geographically accurate map of the state and
the Great Lakes, as well as a hugely symbolic one with allegories of in Native American goddesses
of plenty and the different industries that were making Michigan one of the wealthiest states

(03:07):
in the Union. This is a style of art deco known as Mayan Revival or Aztec Revival.
I had heard it was stunning, but and even if you see pictures online, it doesn't really prepare you
until you walk in and it's truly a cathedral. Yes, the Cathedral of Finance was its nickname
and finance being one of the major industries in the city at the time, this was the queen of all the

(03:32):
bank headquarters. And so this building represents a time in Detroit when we were making money hand-over-fist,
one of the wealthiest cities in the country, fourth largest by population, and it's just a monument
to the wealth and the prestige and the beauty that was all here in the city at the time.
So it's quite a pricey endeavor this building. Indeed, modern equivalent $250 million or so,

(04:00):
12.5 million in 1929 bucks. Wow. And you know, if you're a bank later on that year, not so great. Stock
market crash. Exactly. So this building, you know, only had its glory days for a few months before
the stock market crashes and banks around the country panic. Detroit is a city known for its
architecture. We are the only city in the United States and the second only in all of North America

(04:25):
that is a designated City of Design by UNESCO and the United Nations for our diversity of architecture.
From pre-1900s to art deco, modernist, neoclassical. You can find all great examples of that here in Detroit.
What a beautiful building to work in, to guide people on tours in. Indeed. I don't take it for granted

(04:48):
and sharing this beautiful structure with others and oftentimes literally seeing their jaws drop
as they walk in the revolving doors is one of the highlights of my day.
Dining in a firehouse? You've got that right. For more great architecture and a preservation story,
seek out The Apparatus Room for dinner.

(05:08):
In Detroit, things are not always as they seem. We are now gonna go through these big red doors
into The Apparatus Room. It is housed in the Detroit Foundation Hotel, which used to be a
firehouse. They actually stored fire engines and fire engine parts in what is now the restaurant.
And it's another cool example of adaptive reuse here in Detroit.

(05:31):
The Apparatus Room welcomes locals and travelers alike, offering a modern spin on classic
New American cuisine. Whether you're sitting down for a sophisticated dinner,
or grabbing a craft cocktail at the bar, you're sure to have a unique experience surrounded by
fascinating local history. To stretch my legs further, I'm heading farther outside of Detroit

(05:56):
to a hidden gem that not many locals know about. Located just 20 miles South of Detroit,
along the lower Detroit River and the shoreline of Lake Erie, the Detroit River International
Wildlife Refuge consists of over 6,200 acres where you can hike, view a variety of interesting
wildlife and connect with nature. Dan Kennedy takes me on a tour of this natural oasis.

(06:22):
Well, this property was proposed for development and the local community
voiced their concerns about that 'cause they wanted this to be the last
mile of shoreline that remained undeveloped in Detroit and now it's in the ownership of the
Fish and Wildlife Service, which is, you know, really important for us here because that's one of our
primary goals is to connect with the local community. Just goes to show that when communities get together,

(06:45):
they can make change. There are walking trails here open year round, including for snow-shoeing and
cross-country skiing in the winter. We're so close to Downtown Detroit. It took like 20 minutes to
get here this morning. Right, and so there's a lot of people in Detroit that maybe haven't had an
experience to get out on a trail like this. The wildflowers here are so beautiful with this purple and

(07:08):
yellow and white all of the different colors. Yeah, that's something that we've purposely done. It also
helps our pollinators. One of the biggest reasons to visit this wildlife refuge is for the birdwatching.
This is the Humbug Marsh unit, which is directly connected to the Detroit River. And what's really
unique about this is there's a bunch of submergent vegetation here that provides ample food sources

(07:32):
for our migratory waterfowl and other wildlife. We'll get anywhere from a couple thousand to
10,000 waterfowl in here during the spring and fall migration. We do have egrets and herons that love to come
and wade in the shallower. Oh, there's one that just showed up right there. Oh. There's a great blue heron.
And a great blue heron. Wow. Yeah, just right on the edge there. So pretty. They love to come and

(07:54):
hunt for fish. And over here we have, is that an egret? Yeah, you can see because it's all white.
There's several species of egrets, but that's the largest one, a Great Egret. So pretty and
lots of birds flying around now- they're coming out to say hello. What is this? Oh, there goes the
eagle across the marsh. Some of the seagulls are letting him know that it's there. Wow. Eagle flying.

(08:18):
What a magnificent bird. Even though we're not in prime season for birdwatching,
we find more than a few and places for great photo opportunities. We built our own eagle's nest
for people to pretend they're a bald eagle for an afternoon. This is our fake bald eagle's nest.
It's fun. People love to come up here and take their pictures in it. Look, there's some turtles hanging

(08:43):
out. Well, it's amazing that we've seen so much activity today and this is not even the high season
for birdwatching. This area, both the Humbug Marsh, the wetland portion and the upland portion is
important stopover habitat for a lot of our migrating bird species. Another important thing about
restoring and enhancing our coastal wetlands is that not only are they good for fish and wildlife,

(09:07):
but it also has some human benefits. They can act as flood storage and they help filter our water
so that we have cleaner water. The Detroit River International Wildlife Refuge is just one of over
570 refuges across the country. We are a system, the National Wildlife Refuge System. We protect a lot

(09:27):
of land for iconic fish and wildlife species. Something I didn't expect to find in Detroit.
From two feet to two wheels, I'm heading back downtown to get active and discover Detroit from
a new perspective. If you like exploring cool spaces by cycling, Wheelhouse Detroit has you covered.
I venture down to the RiverWalk to ride with Henry Ford II to take in the greener side of Detroit.

(09:54):
Welcome to the Detroit RiverWalk. So beautiful by the water here. Yeah, it's awesome. I mean,
it's an asset that we've had forever, but only since 2008 has it been really established as a public
property. Flowers are gorgeous. It's great too because they bloom almost all year. Aside from when

(10:15):
it's winter, you can always catch some color over here. So pretty. And the city skyline right here.
Right behind us on these trails and you forget you're in a major city. Yeah, I like that.
The Dequindre Cut here, which is next is actually a former railway that's turned into a trailway.
Rails to trails. Rails to trails. Henry's guiding me to Eastern Market, which has its roots as one

(10:39):
of the largest open-air markets in the country. A massive public market taking up six city blocks,
you can shop and eat local. Eastern Market is a popular spot for everyone locally and surrounding counties,
even in Canada. It's so vibrant and I love seeing all the beautiful flowers, the fresh corn and, fresh vegetables,

(11:05):
beautiful tomatoes. Yeah. I really loved coming on this rail to trail because we were able to see
a lot of different original graffiti along the route. The Dequindre Cut has been an essential
artery to allows us to kind of explore the city without having any motor vehicle interaction.
That being the case, being isolated, we do see some of the graffiti that was there over the years.

(11:29):
And some that's been commissioned by the city as well. This area is also known for a lot of
murals and a lot of public art. Absolutely. Eastern Market, the campus is surrounded by
public art. A lot of murals were done here through programs throughout the city.
You were not always a cyclist but you are now guiding people out by bike here in Detroit. Indeed.

(11:54):
The best way to see the city is on two wheels. I'm winding my way through the market in search of
gifts and goods to bring back home and munch on here. Hello. Hi. Some fresh Mystic Kettle? Sure, why not? I smelled this from
all the way down there. Yum, this is really good. I love discovering local markets like this. You can

(12:19):
literally get a taste of where you are. And there are farm products from Detroit right here at
Eastern Market. You can go have stir fry, you can buy plants for your house. And yeah, you have to
taste your way through this market. By exploring Detroit on foot, two wheels, and by looking up,

(12:40):
we've uncovered some of the city's best kept secrets. Next time you're in Detroit,
discover some of the city's most unique experiences from stepping inside art deco masterpieces,
to dining in unconventional places, venturing out to a natural oasis, biking along the RiverWalk,
and trying local goods at a historic market. Thanks for listening to the Travels with

(13:03):
Darley podcast. Stay tuned for more expert travel tips and adventures across the USA and into
Quebec on this exciting new season. If you like this podcast, please subscribe. Happy travels!
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