Tasting Liège: Secret Meatball Testers, Convent Beer, and Caramelized Waffles

From dining with a secret meatball tester to beer tasting in a convent turned brewery, join Darley Newman on a culinary adventure combining meatballs, beer and waffles in Liège, Belgium. Discover the city's hidden gems, including Boulets à la Liégeoise and peket at Amon Nanesse with Sébastien Laviolette of the Confrérie du Gay Boulet. Visit a bakery to learn about Liège’s distinctive to-go waffles, and taste craft beer at Brasserie C beside the iconic Montagne De Bueren, an extreme staircase. Walk through an arts center housed in a former swimming pool and the bustling La Batte market. With each bite and step, uncover the quirky tapestry of flavors and medieval history that make Liège a must-visit destination for foodies and lovers of craft beer.

Episode Transcript

(00:00):
Where can you go beer tasting in a former content?

(00:03):
It's called, the mix of the two, chicken poop.
Oh, that sounds appetizing.
Yeah, right. Cheers.
Dine with a secret meatball tester.
Are these meatballs healthy?
Are they healthy?
I prefer not to answer.
And find waffles as an on-the-go snack sold alongside croissants in abundant bakeries.

(00:24):
Merci.
The city of Liege may not be as recognizable as Brussels,
but with medieval history, modern marvels and architecture, distinctive waffles,
a bustling beer scene, and holy moly those meatballs,
you might want to add it to your itinerary on a trip to Belgium.
In this Travels with Darley Podcast,
we're going off the beaten path in Belgium

(00:45):
with a secret meatball tester to try some of the biggest and best meatballs in Belgium.
And we're going beer tasting in a former content,
and to a museum housed in a former city swimming pool.
Because in the Travels with Darley Podcast, where by traveling with the locals,
I bring you hidden gems to expand your mind and travel list.
So here we go.

(01:06):
We've got a train to catch to Liege.
Whether you travel to Liege by train or not,
the train station is worth visiting.
Designed by world-renowned Spanish architect Santiago Calatrava,
the monumental steel glass and cement canopy structure,

(01:28):
like a giant strong wave is visually awesome.
And juxtaposes the century's old architecture
found in the historic city center of Liege.
Close to the border with the Netherlands and Germany,
and just an hour by train or car from Brussels.
Liege hosts an interesting mix of architectural styles,
some dating back to the Middle Ages,

(01:49):
as well as lively markets, distinctive culinary delights,
and a modern art scene.
If you're visiting Liege, you'll want to indulge in three things--
waffles, beer, and meatballs.
And just like the fiery people of Liege,
there's something just a bit different
about all of these traditional foods found in Liege.

(02:11):
In Liege, waffles may be the most well-known food to try,
but there's another culinary delight that locals love--
le boulet
and it's not your typical meatball.
A large beef and pork meatball served in a sweet sauce
consisting of a mixture of pairs and apple syrup, wine,
onions, and peket, a local spirit.

(02:33):
Le boulet is a Liege staple.
Sebastien Laviolette from la Confrerie du Gay Boulet
a guild of folks that make it their mission
to secretly taste test meatballs at restaurants
throughout the region and Belgium.
Meet me to help me understand this meaty phenomenon.
Sebastian, I've heard that when I come to Liege,

(02:54):
I have to try le boulet.
You have to.
Oh, why?
Why are they so popular?
Because it's a popular meal.
It's a typical Belgium meal, but here in Liege
you get meatballs like this.
In Liege, you get meatballs like this.
Big meatballs.
Big meatballs.
So with--
Le boulet are big.

(03:14):
Yes.
Because it was the cheapest meal for popular people.
It's Boulets à la Liégeoise
Here we call it like that.
But it's meatballs with a sweet and sugar sauce, typically,
from Liege
He's wearing a bright yellow-collared polo shirt,

(03:34):
with the words "gay bouley," and an image of meatballs
and fries embroidered on his chest.
As well as a silver medal for his Confrerie du Gay Boulet
guild, it's attached to a white ribbon around his neck.
Basically, the secret meatball tester
is outing himself for our filming and podcast
taping today.
So people eat these meatballs all over the city.

(03:56):
Yeah.
Can't a sense.
We will like it in the guild about the guild
by the "gay boulet," because we thought there's nothing
like the "guild Michelin," where we can taste everywhere
the Boulets à la Liégeoise
So you're going around to all the restaurants in Liege

(04:18):
and trying the meatballs.
Yes, everywhere.
Everywhere in Belgium.
And is this one of the best places to have them?
Yes.
Love it.
Yes.
So Sebastian's jobor side hustle
is to taste test these meatballs all over Liege
and his guild, the "gay boulet," is sort of like the Michelin
guide to these meatballs.

(04:40):
And he's guided me to one of the top places
for both boulet and a special drink in Liege called "peket,"
which in this restaurant they serve
in multiple flavors and little glass tumblers.
They often light it on fire to show you
that the alcohol is in fact strong before they serve it to you.
It's Amon Nanesse restaurant in the heart of Liege.

(05:00):
Are these meatballs healthy?
Are they healthy?
I prefer not to answer.
Do you have some sort of special regimen
if you're going all around eating these meatballs all the time?
Because you look OK to me.
You don't look like you're going to fall over on the chair
or anything.
Who said "meatballs?" said Belgian fries.
Who said Belgian fries?
Said mayonnaise.

(05:20):
And of course, a beer or red wine.
So it's very, very heavy, like a meal.
So heavy meatballs is what we have to look forward to.
Big heavy meatballs.
All right, well, let's try them.
Yes, of course.
Two very large meatballs covered in what looks like a dark chocolate

(05:42):
brown glaze or gravy are presented on a plate
with a heaping dose of thick Belgian fries.
Oh my.
Whoa.
I could take this one.
I told you.
And a small side salad.
All right.
I don't even need my knife to cut into the tender ball of meat,

(06:03):
which is savory, sweet, just a little spicy.
Let's go.
Yes.
I like the sweetness of the sauce.
Yes?
And the spiciness of the meatball.
And if you take a french fries with mayonnaise and meatballs,
too, you'll see it's a real pleasure.
Wow.

(06:24):
This is very gluttonous, but I like it.
As we continue to munch on our meatballs,
I ask the burning question.
Does this meet your standards for le boulet?
Yes.
That's why I want you to try it
That is perfect.
I hope you like it.
It is meatball perfection.
Nearly, Nearly

(06:46):
I'm very difficult
Oh, well, you're a connoisseur, so I'm just a newbie here,
and I think they're pretty good.
Maison Massin is one of a few top bakeries
where local source great waffles in Liege,
a huge part of the culture.
In Belgium, waffles really fall into two categories--

(07:09):
the Brussels style.
And the style found here in Liege, and they are different.
I can see them in the window outside of Maison Massin,
along with fresh croissants, and the scent of them,
sizzling in a waffle maker as I enter is enticing.
A tall, dark-haired baker and a navy t-shirt and apron
is handing me a traditional Liege waffle.

(07:33):
Merci.
OK.
So whereas in the US, we often think of waffles as breakfast
food. Here in Belgium, they're often
had as dessert or a snack on the go.
And depending on where you are,
they're different styles and types of waffles.
Brussels waffles are known to be light, airy, and rectangular.
Often consumed with utensils, and topped

(07:54):
with fruits, chocolate, or whipped cream. In Liege.
Traditional waffles are unevenly shaped,
grilled from a thick batter, and dotted with chunks of sugar.
It caramelizes, forming a crunchy exterior.
And there's a dense, chewy interior.
It's this Liege style of waffles that's
meant to be eaten on the go.

(08:16):
Maison Massin takes waffles to a whole nother level,
embellishing some with sweet fruit fillings,
a messy endeavor to eat, but a tasty one.
I opt to try the traditional Liege waffles on my visit,
as well as a scrumptuous pastry.
After my bakery stop, I'm experiencing more good food

(08:36):
and shopping at La Batte,
a market stretching along the river in Liege.
Sunday is market day.
And if there's something you want or need,
you'll find it at La Batte,
It's rupted to be the oldest and largest market in Belgium.
And there's certainly a bit of everything here.
You'll find eggs, cheese, fruit, snails, seafood, sausages.

(08:57):
It's an overload for the senses.
And while you might need to take a breath,
the market will certainly draw you back in.
From the market, you can walk to our next stop.
Brasserie C
You'll want to snap a photo of the dizzying Mount Buren Stairs,
an epic 374-step staircase located just beside Brasserie C.

(09:20):
Brasserie C is a brewery and a beautiful setting,
and with a great entrepreneurial energy.
This craft production site is housed in Liege's city center,
and you can take a tour to try the latest brews.
Max is leading me.
[MUSIC PLAYING]
All right, Darley.
So here is where everything starts.

(09:42):
So as you can see, those different tanks around us
are the tools we use to create our beers.
Our microbrewery is not outside of the city center in a warehouse.
We are here in an old convent of nuns from the early 70’s
So to get all those tanks around us in here,
we had to hand build half of the wall around the door

(10:04):
to get those large tanks in it and rebuild the exact way.
So inside the city, inside a historical monument,
makes everything harder but everything better.
So you're drinking a bit of Belgian history
when you're having a beer here?
Exactly.
Outside, we're not just beer tasting,
but also pairing beer with different cheeses.

(10:26):
Something I'd normally associate with wine.
Cheers.
Ooh, I like it.
Yeah, it's good.
I can taste the orange.
That's right.
Orange peel is one of the spices we use besides coriander.
So this is one of the reasons it goes well with food
is because the flavor is quite complex.

(10:46):
Unlike most of the specialty beer,
I feel I can drink it all night.
You know, with some specialties, I love them,
but just for one glass.
Yeah.
Well, you should actually try these.
This cheese from Esneux, which is 20 kilometers away from here,
mixed with this fruit syrup.

(11:06):
It's called, the mix of the two, chicken poop.
Oh, that sounds appetizing.
Yeah, right.
Let's see if it's better than what it sounds.
OK.
Beer tasting or hazing?
I'm not sure here in Liege.
I like these local tips you're giving me.
It tastes a lot better than you describe.

(11:27):
Yeah, I hope so.
Taste it with a beer.
All these local products with local beer.
That's a good day in Belgium.
And the sun's out.
It's a good day in Belgium.
Exactly.
Wonderful.
To cap off all the food I've consumed on this Liege adventure,
I'm stopping by one of the top attractions for culture buffs

(11:49):
to take a stroll. Located just behind the opera house.
La Cite Mirior is an exhibition and art space,
housed in a former city swimming pool.
Many of Liege's current residents learn to swim here
and now take in art in this city institution.
It's all in a day of eating my way through surprising Liege,

(12:10):
where if you eat where the locals eat,
you'll find an abundant reason to stay for a while.
I'm Darley Newman, and I hope you've enjoyed indulging
in waffles, beer, and oh, those meatballs
here in the city of Liege in Belgium.
Travel with me for more food, history,
and cultural adventures in the Travels with Darley podcast.

(12:31):
And look for the Travels with Darley series
on your local PBS TV station and streaming.
[Music]