June 21, 2025 • 14 mins
Step into the depths of Douglas Island’s legendary Treadwell Mines—where roaring stamps echo day and night, and gold hides within layers of quartz. From the accidental claim by John Treadwell to the world’s largest quartz-mining operation, discover the poetic and perilous life beneath Alaska’s surface. This immersive narrative captures the awe, danger, and mechanical thunder of the 900-stamp operation, and the unforgettable descent 1,080 feet underground. Between blaring stamp mills, slickers that smell of history, and mysterious “winzes,” this story unearths not only gold but the grit of those who sought it.
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Episode Transcript
Available transcripts are automatically generated. Complete accuracy is not guaranteed.
Speaker 1 (00:00):
Chapter eleven. Gastoneau Channel, northwest of Juno is not navigable
for craft drawing more than three feet of water at
high tide. Coming out of the channel, the steamer turns
around the southern end of Douglas Island and heads north
into Lynn Canal, with Admiralty Island on the port side
and Douglas on the starboard. Directly north of the latter
(00:23):
island is Mendenhall Glacier, formerly known as the Och. The
Indians of this vicinity bear the same name and have
a village north of Juno. They were a warlike offshoot
of the Hoonas and bore a bad reputation for treachery
and unreliability. Only a few now remain. In the neighborhood
(00:46):
of this glacier, at which the steamer does not call,
but which may be plainly seen Streaming down, are several
snow mountains, from five thousand to seven thousand feet in height.
They seem hardly worthy of the name of mountain in Alaska,
but they float so whitely and so beautifully above the
(01:06):
deep blue waters of Lynn Canal that the voyager cannot
mistake there. Mission Shelter Island, west of Mendenhall Glacier forms
two channels, Saginaw and Favorite. The latter, as indicated by
its name, is the one followed by steamers going to Skagway.
(01:26):
Saginaw is taken by steamers going down Chatham Straits or
Icy Straits to Sitka copyright by E. A. Hegg Juno
Indian houses Kordova copyright by E. A. HeiG Juno, Indian
Houses Kordiva. Sailing up Favorite Channel, Eagle Glacier is passed
(01:46):
on the starboard side. It is topped by a great
crag which so closely resembles an outline are national emblem
that it was so named by Admiral Beardsley in eighteen
seventy nine. The glacier itself is not of great importance.
On Benjamin Island, a fair anchorage may be secured for
(02:08):
vessels bound north which have unfortunately been caught in a
strong northwest gale. After the dangerous Vanderbilt Reef is passed.
Point Bridget and Point St. Marys are seen at the
entrance to Berner's Bay, where is situated the rich gold
mine belonging to Governor Hagot. A light was established in
(02:28):
nineteen o five on Point Sherman, also on Eldred Rock,
where the claren Nevada went down in eighteen ninety eight
with the loss of every soul on board. Four ten
years repeated attempts to locate this wreck have been made
on account of the rich treasure which the ship was
supposed to carry, but not until nineteen o eight was
(02:51):
it discovered, when, upon the occurrence of a phenomenally low tide,
it was seen gleaming in clear green depths for a
few hours by the keeper of the lighthouse. There was
a large loss of life. There is a mining and
ill settlement at Seward in this vicinity. William Henry Bay,
lying across the canal from Bernners, is celebrated as a
(03:15):
sportsman's resort, although this recommendation has come to bear little
distinction in a country where it is so common. Enormous
crabs rivaling those to the far westward, are found here.
Their meat is not coarse, as would naturally be supposed
because of their great size, but of a fine flavor.
(03:38):
Seduction point on the island bearing the same name lies
between Chilcote Inlet on the west and chilcoot Inlet on
the east. For once Vancouver rose to the occasion and
bestowed a striking name, because at this point the treacherous
Indians tried to lure Woldby and his men up the
inlet to their village. Upon his refusal to go, they
(04:01):
presented a warlike front, and the sincerity of their first
advances was doubted. At the entrance to Chilcot Inlet, Davidson
Glacier is seen sweeping down magnificently from near the summit
of the White Mountains. Although this glacier does not discharge
bergs nor rise in splendid tinted Palisades Strait from the
(04:24):
water as to Tacu and Columbia, it is nevertheless very imposing,
especially if seen from the entrance of the inlet at
sunset of a clear day. The setting of the glaciers
of Lynn Canal is superb. The canal, itself named by
Vancouver for his home in England, is the most majestic
slender waterway in Alaska. From Puget Sound, Feord after Fiord
(04:49):
leads one on in ever increasing, ever changing splendor until
the grand climax is reached in Lynn Canal for fifty
five miles, The sparkling blue waters of the canal push
almost northward. Its shores are practically unbroken by inlets, and
rise in noble sweeps or stately palisades to domes and
(05:10):
peaks of snow glaciers may be seen at every turn
of the steamer. Not an hour, not one mile of
this last fifty five should be mist. In winter, the
snow descends to the water's edge, and this stretch is
exalted to sublimity. The waters of the canal take on
(05:31):
deep tones of purple. At sunset, Fires of purest old
rose play upon the mountains and glaciers, and the clear,
washed out atmosphere brings the peaks forward until they seem
to overhang the steamer, throbbing up between them. Lynn Canal
is really but a narrowing continuation of Chatham Strait. Together
(05:53):
they form one grand fiord two hundred miles in length,
with scarcely a bend extending directly north and south. From
an average width of four or five miles, they narrow
in places to less than half a mile. In July
seventeen ninety four, Vancouver, lying at Port Althorpe in Cross
(06:14):
Sound sent mister would be to explore the continental shore
to the eastward. Mister would be sailed through icy strait,
seeing the glacier now known as the Brady Glacier, and
rounding point Coverden sailed up Lynn Canal. Here, as usual,
he was simply stunned by the grandeur and magnificence of
(06:35):
the scenery, and resorted to his pet adjectives. Both sides
of this arm were bounded by lofty, stupendous mountains covered
with perpetual eyes and snow, whilst the shores in this
neighborhood appeared to be composed of cliffs of very fine
slate interspersed with beaches of very fine paving stone. Up
(06:56):
this channel, the boats passed and found the continental shore.
Now take a direction in twenty two w to a
point where the arm narrowed to two miles across, from
whence it extended ten miles further in a direction in
thirty w where its navigable extent terminated in latitude fifty
(07:16):
nine degrees twelve longitude two hundred and twenty four degrees
thirty three. This station was reached in the morning of
the sixteenth, after passing some islands and some rocks nearly
in mid channel. It was probably on one of these
data Clara Nevada was wrecked a hundred years later above
(07:37):
the northernmost of these, which lies four miles below the
shoal that extends across the upper part of the arm. There,
about a mile in width, the water was found to
be perfectly fresh. Along the edge of the shoal, the
boats passed from side to side in six feet water,
and beyond it the head of the arm extended about
(07:58):
half a league, where a small opening in the land
was seen about the fourth of a mile wide, leading
to the northwestward, from whence a rapid stream of fresh
water rushed over the shoal. This was Cholcot River. But this,
to all appearance, was bounded at no great distance by
(08:18):
a continuation of the same lofty ridge of snowy mountains,
so repeatedly mentioned as stretching eastwardly from Mount Fairwether, and
which in every point of view they had hitherto been seen,
appeared to be affirm and close connected range of stupendous mountains,
forever doomed to support a burthen of undissolving ice, and
(08:39):
snow here, it will be observed, Whidby was so unconsciously
wrought upon by the sublimity of the country that he
was moved to fairly poetic utterance. He seemed, however, to
be himself doomed to support forever a burthen of gloom,
an undissolving weariness as heavy as that borne the mountains
(09:01):
up this river, or as would be called it brook.
The Indians informed him eight chiefs of great consequence resided
in a number of villages. He was urged to visit them.
Their behavior was peaceable, civil and friendly, but mister Whidby
declined the invitation, and returning rounded and named Point Seduction,
(09:25):
and passing into chilcoot Inlet, discovered more high, stupendous mountains
loaded with perpetual ice and snow. After exploring chilcoot Inlet,
they returned down the canal, soon falling in with a
party of friendly Indians who made overtures of peace. Mister
Whidby describes their chief as a tall, thin, elderly man.
(09:49):
He was dressed superbly and supported a degree of state
consequence and personal dignity which had been found among no
other Indians. His external robe was a very fine, large
garment that reached from his neck down to his heels,
made of wool from the mountain goat. The famous Chilcot
(10:10):
blanket here described for the first time by the unappreciative Whidby.
It was neatly variegated with several colors, and edged and
otherwise decorated with little tufts of woolen yarn dyed of
various colors. His head dress was made of wood, resembling
a crown, and adorned with bright copper and brass plates.
(10:33):
Whence hung a number of tails or streamers composed of
wooland for work, together dyed of various colors, and each
terminating in a hole ermine skin. His whole appearance, both
as to dress and manner, was magnificent. Mister Whitby was
suspicious of the good intentions of these new acquaintances, and
(10:55):
was therefore well prepared for the trouble that followed. Headed
by the splendid Chi the Indians attacked Whidby's party in boats,
and being repulsed, followed for two days. As the second
night came on boisterously, mister Whidby was compelled to seek shelter.
The Indians, understanding his design, hastened to shore in advance,
(11:17):
got possession of the only safe beach, drew up in
battle array and stood with spears couched, ready to receive
the exploring party. This was on the northern part of
Admiralty Island. Here appears the most delicious peace of unintentional
humour in all Vancouvers narrative. There was now no alternative
(11:40):
but either to force a landing by firing upon them,
or to remain at their oars all night. The latter,
mister Whidby considered to be not only the most humane,
but the most prudent to adopt, concluding that there habitations
were not far distant, and believing them, from the number
of smokes that had been seen during the day, to
(12:02):
be a very numerous tribe. They probably appeared more stupendous
than any snow covered mountain in per mister Widby's startled eyes.
To avoid a dispute with these troublesome people, mister Whitby
withdrew to the main canal and stopped to take some
rest at a point which received the felicitous name of
(12:26):
Point Retreat on the northern part of Admiralty Island, a
name which it still retains. In the following month, mister
Whidby was compelled to rest again upon his extremely humane
spirit to the southward in Frederick's Sound, the day being
fair and pleasant Chronicles Vancouver, mister Wildby wished to embrace
(12:49):
this opportunity of drying their wet clothes, putting their arms
in order for this purpose. The party landed on a
commodious beach, but before they had finished their business, a
large canoe arrived, containing some women and children, and sixteen
stout Indian men, well appointed with the arms of the country.
(13:10):
Their conduct afterward put on a very suspicious appearance. The
children withdrew into the woods, and the rest fixed their
daggers round there, wrists, and exhibited other indications not of
the most friendly nature. To avoid the chance of anything
unpleasant taking place, mister Whidby considered it most humane and
(13:32):
prudent to withdraw, which he did with all possible dispatch.
They were pursued by the Indians, this conduct greatly attracting
the observation of the party. Mister Whidby did not scruple
to fire into a fleeing canoe, nor did he express
any sorrow when most hideous and extraordinary noises indicated that
(13:55):
he had fired to good effect. But the instant the
Indians lined up and considered terable numbers, with couch spears
and warlike attitude. This situation immediately became stupendous, and Whidby's
ever ready humanis came to his relief.
Chapter eleven. Gastoneau Channel, northwest of Juno is not navigable
for craft drawing more than three feet of water at
high tide. Coming out of the channel, the steamer turns
around the southern end of Douglas Island and heads north
into Lynn Canal, with Admiralty Island on the port side
and Douglas on the starboard. Directly north of the latter
(00:23):
island is Mendenhall Glacier, formerly known as the Och. The
Indians of this vicinity bear the same name and have
a village north of Juno. They were a warlike offshoot
of the Hoonas and bore a bad reputation for treachery
and unreliability. Only a few now remain. In the neighborhood
(00:46):
of this glacier, at which the steamer does not call,
but which may be plainly seen Streaming down, are several
snow mountains, from five thousand to seven thousand feet in height.
They seem hardly worthy of the name of mountain in Alaska,
but they float so whitely and so beautifully above the
(01:06):
deep blue waters of Lynn Canal that the voyager cannot
mistake there. Mission Shelter Island, west of Mendenhall Glacier forms
two channels, Saginaw and Favorite. The latter, as indicated by
its name, is the one followed by steamers going to Skagway.
(01:26):
Saginaw is taken by steamers going down Chatham Straits or
Icy Straits to Sitka copyright by E. A. Hegg Juno
Indian houses Kordova copyright by E. A. HeiG Juno, Indian
Houses Kordiva. Sailing up Favorite Channel, Eagle Glacier is passed
(01:46):
on the starboard side. It is topped by a great
crag which so closely resembles an outline are national emblem
that it was so named by Admiral Beardsley in eighteen
seventy nine. The glacier itself is not of great importance.
On Benjamin Island, a fair anchorage may be secured for
(02:08):
vessels bound north which have unfortunately been caught in a
strong northwest gale. After the dangerous Vanderbilt Reef is passed.
Point Bridget and Point St. Marys are seen at the
entrance to Berner's Bay, where is situated the rich gold
mine belonging to Governor Hagot. A light was established in
(02:28):
nineteen o five on Point Sherman, also on Eldred Rock,
where the claren Nevada went down in eighteen ninety eight
with the loss of every soul on board. Four ten
years repeated attempts to locate this wreck have been made
on account of the rich treasure which the ship was
supposed to carry, but not until nineteen o eight was
(02:51):
it discovered, when, upon the occurrence of a phenomenally low tide,
it was seen gleaming in clear green depths for a
few hours by the keeper of the lighthouse. There was
a large loss of life. There is a mining and
ill settlement at Seward in this vicinity. William Henry Bay,
lying across the canal from Bernners, is celebrated as a
(03:15):
sportsman's resort, although this recommendation has come to bear little
distinction in a country where it is so common. Enormous
crabs rivaling those to the far westward, are found here.
Their meat is not coarse, as would naturally be supposed
because of their great size, but of a fine flavor.
(03:38):
Seduction point on the island bearing the same name lies
between Chilcote Inlet on the west and chilcoot Inlet on
the east. For once Vancouver rose to the occasion and
bestowed a striking name, because at this point the treacherous
Indians tried to lure Woldby and his men up the
inlet to their village. Upon his refusal to go, they
(04:01):
presented a warlike front, and the sincerity of their first
advances was doubted. At the entrance to Chilcot Inlet, Davidson
Glacier is seen sweeping down magnificently from near the summit
of the White Mountains. Although this glacier does not discharge
bergs nor rise in splendid tinted Palisades Strait from the
(04:24):
water as to Tacu and Columbia, it is nevertheless very imposing,
especially if seen from the entrance of the inlet at
sunset of a clear day. The setting of the glaciers
of Lynn Canal is superb. The canal, itself named by
Vancouver for his home in England, is the most majestic
slender waterway in Alaska. From Puget Sound, Feord after Fiord
(04:49):
leads one on in ever increasing, ever changing splendor until
the grand climax is reached in Lynn Canal for fifty
five miles, The sparkling blue waters of the canal push
almost northward. Its shores are practically unbroken by inlets, and
rise in noble sweeps or stately palisades to domes and
(05:10):
peaks of snow glaciers may be seen at every turn
of the steamer. Not an hour, not one mile of
this last fifty five should be mist. In winter, the
snow descends to the water's edge, and this stretch is
exalted to sublimity. The waters of the canal take on
(05:31):
deep tones of purple. At sunset, Fires of purest old
rose play upon the mountains and glaciers, and the clear,
washed out atmosphere brings the peaks forward until they seem
to overhang the steamer, throbbing up between them. Lynn Canal
is really but a narrowing continuation of Chatham Strait. Together
(05:53):
they form one grand fiord two hundred miles in length,
with scarcely a bend extending directly north and south. From
an average width of four or five miles, they narrow
in places to less than half a mile. In July
seventeen ninety four, Vancouver, lying at Port Althorpe in Cross
(06:14):
Sound sent mister would be to explore the continental shore
to the eastward. Mister would be sailed through icy strait,
seeing the glacier now known as the Brady Glacier, and
rounding point Coverden sailed up Lynn Canal. Here, as usual,
he was simply stunned by the grandeur and magnificence of
(06:35):
the scenery, and resorted to his pet adjectives. Both sides
of this arm were bounded by lofty, stupendous mountains covered
with perpetual eyes and snow, whilst the shores in this
neighborhood appeared to be composed of cliffs of very fine
slate interspersed with beaches of very fine paving stone. Up
(06:56):
this channel, the boats passed and found the continental shore.
Now take a direction in twenty two w to a
point where the arm narrowed to two miles across, from
whence it extended ten miles further in a direction in
thirty w where its navigable extent terminated in latitude fifty
(07:16):
nine degrees twelve longitude two hundred and twenty four degrees
thirty three. This station was reached in the morning of
the sixteenth, after passing some islands and some rocks nearly
in mid channel. It was probably on one of these
data Clara Nevada was wrecked a hundred years later above
(07:37):
the northernmost of these, which lies four miles below the
shoal that extends across the upper part of the arm. There,
about a mile in width, the water was found to
be perfectly fresh. Along the edge of the shoal, the
boats passed from side to side in six feet water,
and beyond it the head of the arm extended about
(07:58):
half a league, where a small opening in the land
was seen about the fourth of a mile wide, leading
to the northwestward, from whence a rapid stream of fresh
water rushed over the shoal. This was Cholcot River. But this,
to all appearance, was bounded at no great distance by
(08:18):
a continuation of the same lofty ridge of snowy mountains,
so repeatedly mentioned as stretching eastwardly from Mount Fairwether, and
which in every point of view they had hitherto been seen,
appeared to be affirm and close connected range of stupendous mountains,
forever doomed to support a burthen of undissolving ice, and
(08:39):
snow here, it will be observed, Whidby was so unconsciously
wrought upon by the sublimity of the country that he
was moved to fairly poetic utterance. He seemed, however, to
be himself doomed to support forever a burthen of gloom,
an undissolving weariness as heavy as that borne the mountains
(09:01):
up this river, or as would be called it brook.
The Indians informed him eight chiefs of great consequence resided
in a number of villages. He was urged to visit them.
Their behavior was peaceable, civil and friendly, but mister Whidby
declined the invitation, and returning rounded and named Point Seduction,
(09:25):
and passing into chilcoot Inlet, discovered more high, stupendous mountains
loaded with perpetual ice and snow. After exploring chilcoot Inlet,
they returned down the canal, soon falling in with a
party of friendly Indians who made overtures of peace. Mister
Whidby describes their chief as a tall, thin, elderly man.
(09:49):
He was dressed superbly and supported a degree of state
consequence and personal dignity which had been found among no
other Indians. His external robe was a very fine, large
garment that reached from his neck down to his heels,
made of wool from the mountain goat. The famous Chilcot
(10:10):
blanket here described for the first time by the unappreciative Whidby.
It was neatly variegated with several colors, and edged and
otherwise decorated with little tufts of woolen yarn dyed of
various colors. His head dress was made of wood, resembling
a crown, and adorned with bright copper and brass plates.
(10:33):
Whence hung a number of tails or streamers composed of
wooland for work, together dyed of various colors, and each
terminating in a hole ermine skin. His whole appearance, both
as to dress and manner, was magnificent. Mister Whitby was
suspicious of the good intentions of these new acquaintances, and
(10:55):
was therefore well prepared for the trouble that followed. Headed
by the splendid Chi the Indians attacked Whidby's party in boats,
and being repulsed, followed for two days. As the second
night came on boisterously, mister Whidby was compelled to seek shelter.
The Indians, understanding his design, hastened to shore in advance,
(11:17):
got possession of the only safe beach, drew up in
battle array and stood with spears couched, ready to receive
the exploring party. This was on the northern part of
Admiralty Island. Here appears the most delicious peace of unintentional
humour in all Vancouvers narrative. There was now no alternative
(11:40):
but either to force a landing by firing upon them,
or to remain at their oars all night. The latter,
mister Whidby considered to be not only the most humane,
but the most prudent to adopt, concluding that there habitations
were not far distant, and believing them, from the number
of smokes that had been seen during the day, to
(12:02):
be a very numerous tribe. They probably appeared more stupendous
than any snow covered mountain in per mister Widby's startled eyes.
To avoid a dispute with these troublesome people, mister Whitby
withdrew to the main canal and stopped to take some
rest at a point which received the felicitous name of
(12:26):
Point Retreat on the northern part of Admiralty Island, a
name which it still retains. In the following month, mister
Whidby was compelled to rest again upon his extremely humane
spirit to the southward in Frederick's Sound, the day being
fair and pleasant Chronicles Vancouver, mister Wildby wished to embrace
(12:49):
this opportunity of drying their wet clothes, putting their arms
in order for this purpose. The party landed on a
commodious beach, but before they had finished their business, a
large canoe arrived, containing some women and children, and sixteen
stout Indian men, well appointed with the arms of the country.
(13:10):
Their conduct afterward put on a very suspicious appearance. The
children withdrew into the woods, and the rest fixed their
daggers round there, wrists, and exhibited other indications not of
the most friendly nature. To avoid the chance of anything
unpleasant taking place, mister Whidby considered it most humane and
(13:32):
prudent to withdraw, which he did with all possible dispatch.
They were pursued by the Indians, this conduct greatly attracting
the observation of the party. Mister Whidby did not scruple
to fire into a fleeing canoe, nor did he express
any sorrow when most hideous and extraordinary noises indicated that
(13:55):
he had fired to good effect. But the instant the
Indians lined up and considered terable numbers, with couch spears
and warlike attitude. This situation immediately became stupendous, and Whidby's
ever ready humanis came to his relief.
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