August 19, 2025 • 14 mins
In 1905, Mina Benson Hubbard embarked on a remarkable 576-mile canoe expedition through the uncharted wilderness of Labrador, guided by four skilled companions. This journey was not only a personal quest but also a tribute to her late husband, Leonidas Hubbard, who tragically lost his life while attempting the same route in 1903 as a writer for an outdoor magazine. Mrs. Hubbard became the first to accurately document the river paths of her expedition, and her story is complemented by her husbands diary detailing his ill-fated adventure, along with George Elsons gripping account of survival and the recovery of Mr. Hubbards remains. A map created by Mrs. Hubbard during her travels is also featured on this page—narrated by Zach Hoyt.
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Speaker 1 (00:00):
Chapter twelve of A Woman's Way through Unknown Labrador by
Mina Benson Hubbard. This LibriVox recording is in the public domain.
Chapter twelve, The Migrating Caribou. Tuesday morning, August eighth dawned
clear and calm, and Gilbert came forth to light the fire,
singing glory, Glory, Hallelujah as we go marching along. Yet
(00:20):
before the tents were taken down, the wind had sprung
up from the southwest, and it was with difficulty that
the canoes were launched and loaded. A short distance above
our starting point. We were obliged to run into a
sheltered bay where part of the load was put ashore,
and with the canoes thus lightened, we crossed to a long,
narrow point which reached half way across from the other side,
making an excellent breakwater between the upper and lower parts
of the lake. The crossing was accomplished in safety, though
(00:43):
it was rough enough to be interesting and job, but
Joe went back for what had been left behind. The
point terminated in a low, pebbly beach, but its banks
farther upward ten twelve feet high and above it was
covered with reindeer moss, Towards the outer end there were
thickets of dwarf spruce, and throughout its length scattered trees
that had bravely held their heads up in spite of
the storms of the red northern winter. To the south
(01:05):
of the point was a beautiful little bay, and at
its head a high sand mound, which we found to
be an Indian burying place. There were four graves, one
large one with three little ones at its foot, each
surrounded by a neatly made piling, while the wooden cross
bearing an inscription in Montenay was planted at the head
of each moss covered mound. The inscriptions were worn and old,
except that of one of the little graves. Here the
(01:26):
cross was a new one, and the pillings freshly made.
Some distance out on the point that the skeleton wigwam
carpeted with boughs that were still green and lying about outside,
with the fresh cut shavings, telling where the Indian had
fashioned the new cross and the enclosure about the grave
of his little one. Back of this solitary resting place
were the moss covered hills with their somber forests, and
as we turned from them, we looked out over the
(01:47):
bay at our feet the shining waters of the lake,
and beyond it to the blue, round topped hills, reaching
upward to blend with exquisite harmony into the blue and
silver of the great dome that stooped to meet them.
Who could doubt that romance and poetry dwell in the
heart of the Indian who chose this for the resting
place of his dead. Walking back along the point, we
found it cut by Cariboo trails, and everywhere the moss
(02:07):
was torn and trampled in a way that indicated the
presence there of many of the animals. But a short
time since, yet it did not occur to me that
we might possibly be on the outskirts of the march
of the migrating Cariboo. Termagan were there in numbers and
flew up. All along our way we passed a number
of old camps, one a large oblong sixteen feet in length,
with two fireplaces in it, each marked by a ring
of small rocks and a doorway at either end. Nearer
(02:30):
we landed close in the shelter of a thicket of
dwarf spruce, was a deep bed of boughs, still green,
where some wandering Aboriginal had spent the night without taking
time or trouble to erect his wigwam, and who in
passing on, had set up three poles pointing northward to
tell his message to whoever might come after. The wind
continued high, and squalls and heavy showers passed. Nevertheless, when
lunch was over, we pushed on, keeping close to the
(02:52):
west shore of the lake. A little more than a
mile further up, the men caught sight of deer feeding.
Not far from the water's edge. We landed, and, climbing
to the top of the rock wall, saw a herd
of fifteen or more feeding in the swamp. I watched
them almost breathless. They were very beautiful, and it was
altogether new and delightful experience to me. Soon they saw
us and trotted off into the bush, though without sign
(03:12):
of any great alarm. George and Job made off across
the swamp to the right to investigate, and not long
after returned, their eyes blazing with excitement, to say that
there were hundreds of them not far away. Slipping hurriedly
back into the canoes, we paddled rapidly and silently near
the edge of the swamp. Beyond it was a barren hill,
which from near its foot sloped more gradually to the water.
(03:33):
Along the bank, where its lower slope dropped to the swamp,
lay a number of stags with intlers so immense I
wondered how they could possibly carry them Beyond the lower
slope of the hill seemed to be a solid mass
of caribou, while its steeper part was dotted over with
many feeding on the luxuriant moss. Those lying along the
bank got up at sight of us and withdrew towards
the great herd in a rather leisurely manner, stopping now
(03:55):
and then to watch us curiously. When the herd was
reached and the alarm given, the step EAGs lined themselves
up into front rank and stood facing us with heads
side or rather defiant air. It was a magnificent sight.
They were in summer garb of pretty brown shading to
light gray and white on the under parts. The horns
were in velvet, and those of the stags seemed as
if they must surely weigh down the heads on which
(04:16):
they rested. It was a mixed company, for male and
female were already herding together. I started towards the herd,
Kodak in hand, accompanied by George, while the others remained
at the shore. The splendid creatures seemed to grow taller
as we approached, and when we were within two hundred
and fifty yards of them, their defiance toruck definite form,
and with determined step they came towards us. The sight
(04:38):
of that advancing army under such leadership was decidedly impressive,
Recalling vivid mental pictures made by tales of the stampeding
wild cattle in the West, it made one feel like
getting back to the canoe, and that is what we did.
As we ran towards the other men, I noticed a
peculiar smile on their faces, which had in it a
touch of superiority. I understood in part when I turned
for the caribou had stopped their advance and were again
(05:00):
standing watching us. Now the others started toward the herd.
Emboldened by their courage, and thinking that perhaps they held
the charm that would make a close approach to the
herd possible. I accompanied them, strange to relate. It was
but a few minutes we were all getting back to
the canoes, and we did not again attempt to breathe
their battle front. We and the cariboo stood watching each
other for some time. Then the cariboo began to run
(05:21):
from either extreme of the herd, some round the south
end of the hill, and the others away to the north,
the line of stags still maintaining their position. After watching
them for some time, we again entered the canoes. A
short paddle carried us round the point beyond which the
lake bent to the northwest, and there we saw them
swimming across the lake. Three quarters of a mile out
was an island, a barren ridge standing out of the water,
(05:43):
and from mainland to island they formed as they swam,
a broad, unbroken bridge, from the farther end of which
they poured a steady stream over the hilltop, their flying
forms clear the outlined against the sky. How long we
watched them, I could not say, for I was too
excited to take any note of time. But finally the
main body had passed. Yet when we landed above the
point from which they had crossed, companies of them eight
ten fifteen twenty in a herd were to be seen
(06:05):
in all directions. When I reached the top of the ridge,
accompanied by George and Gilbert, Job and Joe were already
out on the next hill beyond and job was driving
one of a band of a dozen or more towards
the water at the foot of the hill, where some
had just plunged in to swim across. Eager to secure
a photo or two at closer range than any I
had yet obtained, I hinted George my Kodak and started
down the hill at a pace which threatened every second
(06:26):
to be too fast for my feet, which were not
dressed in the most appropriate running ware. However, the foot
of the hill was reached in safety, there a bog
lay across our way. I succeeded in keeping dry for
a few steps, then gave it up and splashed through
at top speed. We had just hidden ourselves behind a
huge boulder to wait for the coming of the herd.
When turning round, I saw it upon the hill from
which we had just come. While exclaiming over my disappointment,
(06:48):
I was startled by a sound immediately behind me, and
turning saw a splendid stag and three doors not twenty
feet away. They saw asens turned, and I had scarcely
caught my breath after this surprise, when they were many
more than twenty feet away, and there was barely time
to stap my shutter on them, for they disappeared over
the brow of the hill. The country was literally alive
with the beautiful creatures, and they did not seem to
(07:09):
be much frightened. They apparently wanted only to keep what
seemed to them a safe distance between us, and would
stop to watch us curiously with an easy rifle shot.
Yet I am glad that I can record that not
a shot was fired at them. Gilbert was wild, for
he hadn't him the hunter's instinct and fullest measure. The
trigger of Job's rifle clicked longingly, but they never forgot
that starvation broods over a labrador, and that the animal
(07:31):
de longed to shoot might sometimes save the life of one.
In just such extremity as that reached by mister Hubbard
and his party two years before. The enjoyment of the
man showed itself in the kindling eyes and faces luminous
with pleasure. All his long Wildern's experience had never afforded
Job anything to compare with that which this day had
brought him. He was like a boy in his abandon
of delight. And I am sure that if the caribou
(07:52):
had worn tails we should have seen job burning over
the hills, holding fast to one of them before proceeding farther.
We reascended the hill which we first climbed to take
a look at the lake. It could be seen almost
from end to end. The lower part which we had
passed was clear, but above us the lake was a
network of islands and water. The hills on either side
seemed to taper off to nothing in the north, and
I could see where the land appeared to drop away
(08:13):
beyond this northern horizon, which looked too near to be natural.
North of Michigan outs were more smaller lakes, and George
showed me a probable route to look for my river.
Squalls and showers had been passing all the afternoon, and
as it drew toward evening, fragments of rainbow could be
seen out on the lake or far away on the
hills beyond it. Labradors a land of rainbows and rainbow colors,
(08:33):
And nowhere have I ever seen them so brilliant, so frequent,
and so variedly manifested. Now the most brilliant one of
all appeared close to us, its end resting directly on
a rock near the foot of the hill. George never
knew before that there was a plot of gold at
the end of the rainbow. I suspect he does not
believe it yet, for I could not persuade him to
run to get it. Gilbert, more credulous, made a determined
attempt to secure the treasure, but before he reached the rock,
(08:56):
the rainbow had moved off and carried the gold to
the middle of the lake. Camp was made a little
farther up. When it was ready for the night, Job
and Joe were again off to watch the caribou. They
were feeding on the hills and swimming back and forth
from islands to mainland, now in companies. Now a single caribou.
Job was so near one as he came out of
the water that he could have caught him by the horns.
Now and then a distant shout told that Job and
(09:17):
the caribou would come to close quarters. While George and
Gilbert prepared supper, I sat writing in my diary with
feet stretched through the fire, for I was wet and
it was cold that night. Suddenly I was startled to
hear Georgia's slave in tragic tones. Oh look, there isn't
that too bad? Looking up quickly to see what was
the trouble. I saw him gazing regretfully at a salt shaker,
which he had just drawn from his pocket. Just see,
(09:37):
he exclaimed, What I have been carrying round in my
pocket all the time you were running after those cariboo.
I never thought about it at all. Well, I am
sorry for that. I could just have given you a
bit and you would have been all right. For fifty
miles of our journey beyond this point we saw companies
of the caribou every day, and sometimes many times a day,
though we did not again see them in such numbers.
(09:57):
The country was a network of their trails in the
woodlands and bogs, cut deep into the soft soil. On
the barren hillsides broad dark bands converging to the crossing
place at the river. At the time I made my journey,
the general movement of the caribou was towards the east,
but where they had come from or whither they were going,
we could not tell. Piles of white hair which we
found later at a deserted camp on Cabot Lake where
(10:17):
the Indians had dressed the skins, and the band of
white hair clinging to the west bank of the George
River opposite our camp August fifteenth, four feet above the
then water level, pointed to an earlier occupation of the country,
while the deep cut trails and long piles of wettened
intlers found at intervals along the upper George River all
indicated that this country's favorite ground with them. Yet, whether
they had bent continuously in this territory since the spring
(10:39):
months or not, I did not ascertain. The Indians, whom
we found a resolution lake knew nothing of their presence
so near them. Towards the end of August the following year,
mister Cabot, while on a trip inland from Davis Inlet
on the East coast, found the caribou in numbers along
the height of land, and when he joined the Indians there,
though the great herd had passed, they had killed near
a thousand. It would therefore seemed not improbable that at
(11:01):
the time I made my journey they were bending their
steps in the direction of the highlands between the Atlantic
and the George. The movements of the barren ground caribou
of Labrador had never been observed in the interior, as
they have been in the country west of Hudson Bay
so far. As I can learn, I alone save the Indians,
have witnessed their great migration there. But from such information
as I was able to gather later at the coast,
the movements appear to be as erratic as those of
(11:22):
the caribou of Northern Canada see Warburton Pikes barren grounds
of Northern Canada. From mister John Ford, the agent of
the Hudson's Bay Company post at the most of the
George River, I learned that they cross in the neighborhood
of the post at different times of the year. He
has seen them there in July and August, in October
and November, in January, February and March. They are seen
only a few days in the summer time, but in
(11:44):
winter stay much longer, sometimes two months. In nineteen o
three they were near the post all through February and March.
On one occasion in the summer when of mister Ford's
Eskimo hunters want to look for cariboo, and after walking
nearly all day, turned home, arriving shortly before midnight, but
without having found a trace of deer. The next morning,
at three o'clock they were running about on the hills
at the post in such numbers that without trouble, as
(12:06):
many could be cold as were desired from the George
River Post, they hunt west for the cariboo, which are
more often found in the vicinity of Whale River Post
than either George River or Fortceembeau to the west. For
the five years preceding my visit, the caribou had crossed
regularly in November at Whale River. That is to say,
they were seen there in great numbers, but no one
knew whence they had come or whither they went. Their
(12:27):
coming cannot, however, be counted upon. Every year. In September
eighteen ninety nine, the whole band of George River Eskimox
went for the annual hunt, by which they expected to
supply themselves with winter clothing. Day after day they traveled
on without finding the deer. When provisions gave out, they
were so far away from the post that they dared
not turn back. One family after another dropped behind. Finally,
(12:48):
the last little company gave up. One young man, only
having the strength to go any farther, He too was
about to sink down when at last he came upon
the cariboo. He went back to help the others, but
in spite of their best efforts, twenty one of the
band perished from starvation. That the Cariboo of Labrador have
greatly decreased in numbers seems certain. Mister Peter Mackenzie, chief
factor of the Hudson's Bay Company in the East, who
(13:09):
is a fellow traveler on my return journey, told me
that many years ago, while the charge of Fort Tremo,
he had seen the Cariboo passing steadily for three days,
just as I saw them on this eighth of August.
Not in thousands, but hundreds of thousands. The depletion of
the great herds of former days is attributed to the
unreasoning slaughter of the animals at the time of migration
by Indians in the interior and Eskimaux of the coast,
not only at Angava, but on the east coast as well.
(13:31):
For the Cariboo sometimes find their way to the Atlantic.
The fires, also, which have swept the country, destroying the
moss on which they feed, have had their share of
the work of destruction only twice during the journey to
rEFInd trace of their enemy. The wolves these hunt the
Cariboo and packs, cutting out a single deer and following
him till his strength is gone, when they jump on
him and pull him down. Mister Mackenzie tells how when
(13:53):
on one of his hunting trips at Fort Chamo, a
caribou came over the ridge, but a short distance from him,
followed by seven wolves. The animal almost reached the limit
of his strength. He ran with head low and tongue
hanging out, from cover of a boulder. Mister Mackenzie waited
for them to pass, and one after another he dropped
four of the wolves. The others, taking the hint, altered
their course, and the victim escaped. End of Chapter twelve.
Chapter twelve of A Woman's Way through Unknown Labrador by
Mina Benson Hubbard. This LibriVox recording is in the public domain.
Chapter twelve, The Migrating Caribou. Tuesday morning, August eighth dawned
clear and calm, and Gilbert came forth to light the fire,
singing glory, Glory, Hallelujah as we go marching along. Yet
(00:20):
before the tents were taken down, the wind had sprung
up from the southwest, and it was with difficulty that
the canoes were launched and loaded. A short distance above
our starting point. We were obliged to run into a
sheltered bay where part of the load was put ashore,
and with the canoes thus lightened, we crossed to a long,
narrow point which reached half way across from the other side,
making an excellent breakwater between the upper and lower parts
of the lake. The crossing was accomplished in safety, though
(00:43):
it was rough enough to be interesting and job, but
Joe went back for what had been left behind. The
point terminated in a low, pebbly beach, but its banks
farther upward ten twelve feet high and above it was
covered with reindeer moss, Towards the outer end there were
thickets of dwarf spruce, and throughout its length scattered trees
that had bravely held their heads up in spite of
the storms of the red northern winter. To the south
(01:05):
of the point was a beautiful little bay, and at
its head a high sand mound, which we found to
be an Indian burying place. There were four graves, one
large one with three little ones at its foot, each
surrounded by a neatly made piling, while the wooden cross
bearing an inscription in Montenay was planted at the head
of each moss covered mound. The inscriptions were worn and old,
except that of one of the little graves. Here the
(01:26):
cross was a new one, and the pillings freshly made.
Some distance out on the point that the skeleton wigwam
carpeted with boughs that were still green and lying about outside,
with the fresh cut shavings, telling where the Indian had
fashioned the new cross and the enclosure about the grave
of his little one. Back of this solitary resting place
were the moss covered hills with their somber forests, and
as we turned from them, we looked out over the
(01:47):
bay at our feet the shining waters of the lake,
and beyond it to the blue, round topped hills, reaching
upward to blend with exquisite harmony into the blue and
silver of the great dome that stooped to meet them.
Who could doubt that romance and poetry dwell in the
heart of the Indian who chose this for the resting
place of his dead. Walking back along the point, we
found it cut by Cariboo trails, and everywhere the moss
(02:07):
was torn and trampled in a way that indicated the
presence there of many of the animals. But a short
time since, yet it did not occur to me that
we might possibly be on the outskirts of the march
of the migrating Cariboo. Termagan were there in numbers and
flew up. All along our way we passed a number
of old camps, one a large oblong sixteen feet in length,
with two fireplaces in it, each marked by a ring
of small rocks and a doorway at either end. Nearer
(02:30):
we landed close in the shelter of a thicket of
dwarf spruce, was a deep bed of boughs, still green,
where some wandering Aboriginal had spent the night without taking
time or trouble to erect his wigwam, and who in
passing on, had set up three poles pointing northward to
tell his message to whoever might come after. The wind
continued high, and squalls and heavy showers passed. Nevertheless, when
lunch was over, we pushed on, keeping close to the
(02:52):
west shore of the lake. A little more than a
mile further up, the men caught sight of deer feeding.
Not far from the water's edge. We landed, and, climbing
to the top of the rock wall, saw a herd
of fifteen or more feeding in the swamp. I watched
them almost breathless. They were very beautiful, and it was
altogether new and delightful experience to me. Soon they saw
us and trotted off into the bush, though without sign
(03:12):
of any great alarm. George and Job made off across
the swamp to the right to investigate, and not long
after returned, their eyes blazing with excitement, to say that
there were hundreds of them not far away. Slipping hurriedly
back into the canoes, we paddled rapidly and silently near
the edge of the swamp. Beyond it was a barren hill,
which from near its foot sloped more gradually to the water.
(03:33):
Along the bank, where its lower slope dropped to the swamp,
lay a number of stags with intlers so immense I
wondered how they could possibly carry them Beyond the lower
slope of the hill seemed to be a solid mass
of caribou, while its steeper part was dotted over with
many feeding on the luxuriant moss. Those lying along the
bank got up at sight of us and withdrew towards
the great herd in a rather leisurely manner, stopping now
(03:55):
and then to watch us curiously. When the herd was
reached and the alarm given, the step EAGs lined themselves
up into front rank and stood facing us with heads
side or rather defiant air. It was a magnificent sight.
They were in summer garb of pretty brown shading to
light gray and white on the under parts. The horns
were in velvet, and those of the stags seemed as
if they must surely weigh down the heads on which
(04:16):
they rested. It was a mixed company, for male and
female were already herding together. I started towards the herd,
Kodak in hand, accompanied by George, while the others remained
at the shore. The splendid creatures seemed to grow taller
as we approached, and when we were within two hundred
and fifty yards of them, their defiance toruck definite form,
and with determined step they came towards us. The sight
(04:38):
of that advancing army under such leadership was decidedly impressive,
Recalling vivid mental pictures made by tales of the stampeding
wild cattle in the West, it made one feel like
getting back to the canoe, and that is what we did.
As we ran towards the other men, I noticed a
peculiar smile on their faces, which had in it a
touch of superiority. I understood in part when I turned
for the caribou had stopped their advance and were again
(05:00):
standing watching us. Now the others started toward the herd.
Emboldened by their courage, and thinking that perhaps they held
the charm that would make a close approach to the
herd possible. I accompanied them, strange to relate. It was
but a few minutes we were all getting back to
the canoes, and we did not again attempt to breathe
their battle front. We and the cariboo stood watching each
other for some time. Then the cariboo began to run
(05:21):
from either extreme of the herd, some round the south
end of the hill, and the others away to the north,
the line of stags still maintaining their position. After watching
them for some time, we again entered the canoes. A
short paddle carried us round the point beyond which the
lake bent to the northwest, and there we saw them
swimming across the lake. Three quarters of a mile out
was an island, a barren ridge standing out of the water,
(05:43):
and from mainland to island they formed as they swam,
a broad, unbroken bridge, from the farther end of which
they poured a steady stream over the hilltop, their flying
forms clear the outlined against the sky. How long we
watched them, I could not say, for I was too
excited to take any note of time. But finally the
main body had passed. Yet when we landed above the
point from which they had crossed, companies of them eight
ten fifteen twenty in a herd were to be seen
(06:05):
in all directions. When I reached the top of the ridge,
accompanied by George and Gilbert, Job and Joe were already
out on the next hill beyond and job was driving
one of a band of a dozen or more towards
the water at the foot of the hill, where some
had just plunged in to swim across. Eager to secure
a photo or two at closer range than any I
had yet obtained, I hinted George my Kodak and started
down the hill at a pace which threatened every second
(06:26):
to be too fast for my feet, which were not
dressed in the most appropriate running ware. However, the foot
of the hill was reached in safety, there a bog
lay across our way. I succeeded in keeping dry for
a few steps, then gave it up and splashed through
at top speed. We had just hidden ourselves behind a
huge boulder to wait for the coming of the herd.
When turning round, I saw it upon the hill from
which we had just come. While exclaiming over my disappointment,
(06:48):
I was startled by a sound immediately behind me, and
turning saw a splendid stag and three doors not twenty
feet away. They saw asens turned, and I had scarcely
caught my breath after this surprise, when they were many
more than twenty feet away, and there was barely time
to stap my shutter on them, for they disappeared over
the brow of the hill. The country was literally alive
with the beautiful creatures, and they did not seem to
(07:09):
be much frightened. They apparently wanted only to keep what
seemed to them a safe distance between us, and would
stop to watch us curiously with an easy rifle shot.
Yet I am glad that I can record that not
a shot was fired at them. Gilbert was wild, for
he hadn't him the hunter's instinct and fullest measure. The
trigger of Job's rifle clicked longingly, but they never forgot
that starvation broods over a labrador, and that the animal
(07:31):
de longed to shoot might sometimes save the life of one.
In just such extremity as that reached by mister Hubbard
and his party two years before. The enjoyment of the
man showed itself in the kindling eyes and faces luminous
with pleasure. All his long Wildern's experience had never afforded
Job anything to compare with that which this day had
brought him. He was like a boy in his abandon
of delight. And I am sure that if the caribou
(07:52):
had worn tails we should have seen job burning over
the hills, holding fast to one of them before proceeding farther.
We reascended the hill which we first climbed to take
a look at the lake. It could be seen almost
from end to end. The lower part which we had
passed was clear, but above us the lake was a
network of islands and water. The hills on either side
seemed to taper off to nothing in the north, and
I could see where the land appeared to drop away
(08:13):
beyond this northern horizon, which looked too near to be natural.
North of Michigan outs were more smaller lakes, and George
showed me a probable route to look for my river.
Squalls and showers had been passing all the afternoon, and
as it drew toward evening, fragments of rainbow could be
seen out on the lake or far away on the
hills beyond it. Labradors a land of rainbows and rainbow colors,
(08:33):
And nowhere have I ever seen them so brilliant, so frequent,
and so variedly manifested. Now the most brilliant one of
all appeared close to us, its end resting directly on
a rock near the foot of the hill. George never
knew before that there was a plot of gold at
the end of the rainbow. I suspect he does not
believe it yet, for I could not persuade him to
run to get it. Gilbert, more credulous, made a determined
attempt to secure the treasure, but before he reached the rock,
(08:56):
the rainbow had moved off and carried the gold to
the middle of the lake. Camp was made a little
farther up. When it was ready for the night, Job
and Joe were again off to watch the caribou. They
were feeding on the hills and swimming back and forth
from islands to mainland, now in companies. Now a single caribou.
Job was so near one as he came out of
the water that he could have caught him by the horns.
Now and then a distant shout told that Job and
(09:17):
the caribou would come to close quarters. While George and
Gilbert prepared supper, I sat writing in my diary with
feet stretched through the fire, for I was wet and
it was cold that night. Suddenly I was startled to
hear Georgia's slave in tragic tones. Oh look, there isn't
that too bad? Looking up quickly to see what was
the trouble. I saw him gazing regretfully at a salt shaker,
which he had just drawn from his pocket. Just see,
(09:37):
he exclaimed, What I have been carrying round in my
pocket all the time you were running after those cariboo.
I never thought about it at all. Well, I am
sorry for that. I could just have given you a
bit and you would have been all right. For fifty
miles of our journey beyond this point we saw companies
of the caribou every day, and sometimes many times a day,
though we did not again see them in such numbers.
(09:57):
The country was a network of their trails in the
woodlands and bogs, cut deep into the soft soil. On
the barren hillsides broad dark bands converging to the crossing
place at the river. At the time I made my journey,
the general movement of the caribou was towards the east,
but where they had come from or whither they were going,
we could not tell. Piles of white hair which we
found later at a deserted camp on Cabot Lake where
(10:17):
the Indians had dressed the skins, and the band of
white hair clinging to the west bank of the George
River opposite our camp August fifteenth, four feet above the
then water level, pointed to an earlier occupation of the country,
while the deep cut trails and long piles of wettened
intlers found at intervals along the upper George River all
indicated that this country's favorite ground with them. Yet, whether
they had bent continuously in this territory since the spring
(10:39):
months or not, I did not ascertain. The Indians, whom
we found a resolution lake knew nothing of their presence
so near them. Towards the end of August the following year,
mister Cabot, while on a trip inland from Davis Inlet
on the East coast, found the caribou in numbers along
the height of land, and when he joined the Indians there,
though the great herd had passed, they had killed near
a thousand. It would therefore seemed not improbable that at
(11:01):
the time I made my journey they were bending their
steps in the direction of the highlands between the Atlantic
and the George. The movements of the barren ground caribou
of Labrador had never been observed in the interior, as
they have been in the country west of Hudson Bay
so far. As I can learn, I alone save the Indians,
have witnessed their great migration there. But from such information
as I was able to gather later at the coast,
the movements appear to be as erratic as those of
(11:22):
the caribou of Northern Canada see Warburton Pikes barren grounds
of Northern Canada. From mister John Ford, the agent of
the Hudson's Bay Company post at the most of the
George River, I learned that they cross in the neighborhood
of the post at different times of the year. He
has seen them there in July and August, in October
and November, in January, February and March. They are seen
only a few days in the summer time, but in
(11:44):
winter stay much longer, sometimes two months. In nineteen o
three they were near the post all through February and March.
On one occasion in the summer when of mister Ford's
Eskimo hunters want to look for cariboo, and after walking
nearly all day, turned home, arriving shortly before midnight, but
without having found a trace of deer. The next morning,
at three o'clock they were running about on the hills
at the post in such numbers that without trouble, as
(12:06):
many could be cold as were desired from the George
River Post, they hunt west for the cariboo, which are
more often found in the vicinity of Whale River Post
than either George River or Fortceembeau to the west. For
the five years preceding my visit, the caribou had crossed
regularly in November at Whale River. That is to say,
they were seen there in great numbers, but no one
knew whence they had come or whither they went. Their
(12:27):
coming cannot, however, be counted upon. Every year. In September
eighteen ninety nine, the whole band of George River Eskimox
went for the annual hunt, by which they expected to
supply themselves with winter clothing. Day after day they traveled
on without finding the deer. When provisions gave out, they
were so far away from the post that they dared
not turn back. One family after another dropped behind. Finally,
(12:48):
the last little company gave up. One young man, only
having the strength to go any farther, He too was
about to sink down when at last he came upon
the cariboo. He went back to help the others, but
in spite of their best efforts, twenty one of the
band perished from starvation. That the Cariboo of Labrador have
greatly decreased in numbers seems certain. Mister Peter Mackenzie, chief
factor of the Hudson's Bay Company in the East, who
(13:09):
is a fellow traveler on my return journey, told me
that many years ago, while the charge of Fort Tremo,
he had seen the Cariboo passing steadily for three days,
just as I saw them on this eighth of August.
Not in thousands, but hundreds of thousands. The depletion of
the great herds of former days is attributed to the
unreasoning slaughter of the animals at the time of migration
by Indians in the interior and Eskimaux of the coast,
not only at Angava, but on the east coast as well.
(13:31):
For the Cariboo sometimes find their way to the Atlantic.
The fires, also, which have swept the country, destroying the
moss on which they feed, have had their share of
the work of destruction only twice during the journey to
rEFInd trace of their enemy. The wolves these hunt the
Cariboo and packs, cutting out a single deer and following
him till his strength is gone, when they jump on
him and pull him down. Mister Mackenzie tells how when
(13:53):
on one of his hunting trips at Fort Chamo, a
caribou came over the ridge, but a short distance from him,
followed by seven wolves. The animal almost reached the limit
of his strength. He ran with head low and tongue
hanging out, from cover of a boulder. Mister Mackenzie waited
for them to pass, and one after another he dropped
four of the wolves. The others, taking the hint, altered
their course, and the victim escaped. End of Chapter twelve.
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