Episode Transcript
Available transcripts are automatically generated. Complete accuracy is not guaranteed.
Speaker 1 (00:29):
Well, so weekend Welcome Aboard at Home with Gary Salvan
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We thank them for their sponsorship of our show. And uh,
let me give you the phone number if you'd like
to grab a line do so. It's eight hundred eighty
(01:14):
two three eight two five five. Let's go to Rich
Rich Welcome, Hey, good morning morning.
Speaker 2 (01:24):
Hey.
Speaker 3 (01:24):
I'm replacing the windows in my home.
Speaker 4 (01:27):
It's a stucco house.
Speaker 3 (01:29):
I noticed when pulling the old ones out that some
of them had nails across the top of the window
and others didn't. Should I be nailing or screwing in
the top of the window.
Speaker 5 (01:40):
Or just the sides in the bottom.
Speaker 1 (01:44):
Is there any directions I tell you which to do
or not not that I saw. Yeah, I'm just assuming
they would all be screwed in.
Speaker 6 (01:54):
But I don't quite know her, to be honest with you.
Speaker 1 (01:58):
A lot of times the manufacturers have, you know, different
but they're all the same windows. I'm assuming that you're removing.
Speaker 3 (02:07):
Well, they're upgraded windows that I'm removed that i'm putting
in or installing.
Speaker 1 (02:12):
Yeah, but it doesn't have any installation instructions at all.
Speaker 3 (02:17):
They do, and I've perused through them and I didn't
see where it said to screw. But I've had others,
you know. I've had a friend of mine told me
when he put windows in his house, he didn't put
anything across the top, and I wasn't sure if that
was for it.
Speaker 1 (02:31):
Yeah, I'm not really sure. Keep listening and somebody will know.
I haven't put a window in a long long time.
Uh So keep listening. Well, we'll get you an answer,
rich And yeah, I'm surprised this time in the instructions.
But somebody can help us out, join us. It's eight
hundred eight two three eight two five five, or I
can quickly find out. I'm sure there's instructions that we
(02:53):
can grab onto. Sorry about that, happens every now and then.
Speaker 6 (02:57):
Bill, Welcome, Hey.
Speaker 2 (03:00):
Garrett, thanks for taking my call. Shored up a We
shored up a parking pad on the side of the
garage asphalt and everything's good underneath now got its surrounded.
It sits about two foot higher than the rest of
(03:22):
the ground around there. And all I got left to
fix is a little area that actually did sink down
and maybe a little bit of a tripping hazard. And
it does let the rain pond there since there's no
(03:47):
since there's no hole, you know, no leaking through it.
Is there something I can Is there maybe a liquid
I can get you fill in that hole? It's not
like if you probably if you had a gallon container,
(04:10):
I'm sure it would level that off very nicely. Is
there anything?
Speaker 6 (04:16):
All right?
Speaker 1 (04:16):
So let's go through this little step by step so
I can tune in exactly where you're at. Is this
near the garage or so you got to you gotta pad?
Is that what you said?
Speaker 6 (04:29):
Concrete pan.
Speaker 2 (04:33):
As falt pad goes up butts up against the one
side of the garage.
Speaker 1 (04:38):
Okay, so we have a pad there and then what's
on the other side of it? Are going up to
that pad? You said something about it being elevated.
Speaker 2 (04:48):
Uh yeah, there's actually steps coming off of which we
just replaced concrete steps coming off of the pad going
down the rest of the sidewalk.
Speaker 1 (05:00):
Okay, so we have an does it have steps? How
do you get up there?
Speaker 6 (05:05):
Now?
Speaker 2 (05:07):
Yeah? Yeah, there's there was steps. Now there's new steps okay,
and new new concrete surrounding it.
Speaker 6 (05:16):
Okay, So where's the hole?
Speaker 2 (05:20):
The whole time, I'll stay kind of in the middle.
It's away from all the edges, but it's just in it.
And again it's not it's not through the asphalt sunk
down with it, and it's just it's just a low
spot there.
Speaker 1 (05:40):
So the low spot, there's a dip in the sphalt
on the.
Speaker 2 (05:44):
Pad, correct, correct?
Speaker 6 (05:47):
All right?
Speaker 1 (05:48):
And and you how deep is it? I'll say across yes, correct?
Speaker 6 (06:02):
Three inches? Okay? All right?
Speaker 1 (06:04):
Yeah, yeah, So you would use a patch, you wouldn't
use a liquid, and you would need that patch to
be held by the existing asphalt. So what you would
do is you would go to go to the sides
(06:25):
of I'll call it it's almost like a saucer, right,
I mean, it's it's just kind of slopes down, slopes up.
So it's kind of like an like you just planted
a saucer in there, and what we want to do
is we want to plant a a like a cake
pan in there with square sides. So we're going to
(06:46):
go up to the highest points and we're going to
take a cold chism. We're going to cut down into
that asphalt. Okay, So we're gonna square up the sides
around that saucer.
Speaker 6 (07:00):
We're gonna then we're going to break up some.
Speaker 1 (07:02):
Of that asphalt, get some of that asphalt out there,
so when we put in the patch, it's going to
attach itself to the sides that we've created.
Speaker 2 (07:16):
Okay, So you're saying if I tried to do if
I try to do the same thing without squaring it up,
it's not going to have enough.
Speaker 6 (07:24):
To grab That's correct. That's correct.
Speaker 1 (07:26):
So now okay, now I know what you're thinking. But remember,
if it's a two inch dip and we just square
up the sides from the highest point, really you're probably
going to have enough to contain that patch without taking
a bunch of the asphalt out of the middle, because
(07:48):
it's already two inches lower, right, So yeah, but you're
going to have to square them off, otherwise you're going
to continue to have the problem.
Speaker 2 (08:00):
And okay, and since I never worked with the asphalt before.
Speaker 6 (08:08):
They have it.
Speaker 2 (08:09):
It's a big box store or.
Speaker 1 (08:11):
Yeah, yeah, so you'll get it, you know, probably fifty
sixty pound bag. You can get a little bucket too
in some cases, I mean Quick Creek makes it. There's
numerous Sacrete makes it. It's a stone about so it's
a it's a it's an asphalt or tar based product
(08:32):
that has very very small little stones in it. And
it's what they would use to repair potholes on a street.
Speaker 2 (08:44):
And and again I've never done that either, right, so
this will all be new to me. And you mix
it out, but you do concrete.
Speaker 1 (08:56):
No, no, it's pre mixed. It's pre mixed, so you
square up the side. You'll get a trial or something
to scoop it out of the bucket, put it into
the center of that, uh something to tamp it down.
They have tampers. You can rent a tamper. Maybe your
neighbor's got a tampre. You're just gonna compress that and
(09:18):
tamp that down till its flush and level.
Speaker 2 (09:22):
Awesome, awesome, all right? And does this product tear because
we're getting into this time of year, or do you
think I can squeeze it in before it gets h.
Speaker 6 (09:34):
You'll be fine, Yeah, you'll be fine. You'll be fine. Yeah.
I wouldn't do it when it's.
Speaker 1 (09:40):
You know, below freezing, but right now chili, Yeah, you're fine.
Speaker 2 (09:44):
Okay, great, Garrett, Thanks, thank you so much.
Speaker 6 (09:47):
You're quite welcome. Thank you.
Speaker 1 (09:49):
All right, let's go to a break and then we'll
come back. And we got Steve and Milton. If you'd
like to join us, do so.
Speaker 6 (09:56):
You're at home with Carrie Sullivan.
Speaker 7 (10:00):
And you have fixed questions. Give Gary a call and
one eight hundred and eighty two three talk this. He's
at home with gary' sullivant.
Speaker 8 (10:15):
Thanks.
Speaker 1 (10:23):
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And back at it.
Speaker 1 (12:42):
We go at home with Gary Sullivan talking a little
home improvement.
Speaker 6 (12:45):
If you'd like to join us, do so.
Speaker 1 (12:47):
It's eight hundred eight two three eight two five five
and let's go to Milton. Milton Welcome, Good morning, Gary.
Speaker 4 (12:55):
Uh yeah, I'd like to show a list vi of
often that's always nice to pick up details and learn something,
so thank you. I was calling about your listener's question
about those windows and the confusion about the top rail
(13:15):
of First, of all, those windows are quite expensive. It
adds up quite quite a lot. The first thing I
would do is get to the manufacturer. Don't be satisfied
with the instructions to come with the window. Get to
the manufacturer and make sure that you're clear on their calking,
(13:36):
anchoring and flashing procedures to protect that warranty. That and
be persistent if they, you know, be persistent and be pesky,
you know, be a squeaky wheel till you get a
satisfactory answer. That being said, that idea with the top rail,
(13:57):
what the window people didn't want to do is have
any set in the house affect the movement of the windows.
If you nail that top rail hard, any settling would
drag the top rail down and interfere with the windows.
So to avoid that, what they would do is tag
(14:19):
off the sides in the bottom for the manufacturer's instructions
and on the top we would we would anchor. They
would be usually be using nails for this, so they
would actually nail nail off the top about a half
inch above the fin itself, leaving nail hanging out, cut
(14:39):
off the head of the nail, and bend it over
the top rail the top fin That would allow any deflection,
It would hold it in basically, but at the same
time it would allow for deflection in the top. Anchoring
in the wood behind at the top of the window.
This was especially a new construction.
Speaker 1 (14:59):
Right, because some of your I think he said he
was replacing windowside. That's why I kept saying, what brand
are there instructions? I mean, something to get us started.
And I guess the question I probably should have asked,
is there is there even a nail fin at the top?
Speaker 6 (15:14):
Correct?
Speaker 4 (15:15):
It sounded like a finned window, but it could have been.
It wasn't quite specific on that. It could be just
a just a block frame window he's installing, in which
case it would be anchored through the side sides and
that yeah, horizontally and I mean not from the face, right.
(15:36):
I hope that helps. But the main thing is get
with that manufacturer.
Speaker 2 (15:41):
Warrant.
Speaker 1 (15:42):
Yeah, absolutely, Milton and I get asked some of those
questions a lot, and they're difficult to answer because even
in metal roofing, when we had the other fellow with
the washer on the metal roofing, a lot of these
all metal roofings aren't created the same, All windows aren't
created the same. They do have specific instructions or manufacturer recommendations,
(16:06):
and so much of these big investments. You can if
you don't know what you're doing, you definitely know what
you're doing.
Speaker 4 (16:14):
I mean, believe me, if they can balk on all cover. Oh,
any any excuse will do. If you're looking for an excuse,
any excuse will do, so don't give them one.
Speaker 1 (16:25):
Well, appreciate your input, just doing a quick little change,
because I didn't feel like I adequately answered that question.
But the very first sentence, and when I was looking
it up, is when installing windows, whether you nail all
four sides depends on the type of window and manufacturers
instructions absolutely, which is kind of what we're both saying. Milton,
(16:46):
thank you so much. I appreciate it.
Speaker 4 (16:48):
Yes, so nice to meet you.
Speaker 6 (16:49):
All right, take care, thank you? All right?
Speaker 1 (16:52):
So there, Yeah, well sometimes we I get asked this
question a lot too, and that is do you think
I can do that? I don't know the answer to
that question. The real question back to you is how
comfortable are you of doing that project? And in today's age,
(17:16):
quite honestly, it gets easier and easier to accomplish some
of these tasks. Many many manufacturers, and I talk about them,
Dice Codings being one, quick Crek being one, Roto Ruter
being one. They have detailed videos on how to install
(17:40):
or use their products, and you know, if you're going
to tackle a project like that, as Milton was saying,
be a pain, keep going to the manufacturers, or at
the very least read those instructions, go to their website,
see if they have videos.
Speaker 6 (18:01):
Go to YouTube and see.
Speaker 1 (18:03):
You know, you got to know a little bit and
then you got to learn a lot more. Is kind
of the way I see things, because different manufacturers want
different things in their installation. Used to be I don't
know if it still is or not. Metal roofing. Some
(18:24):
brands like to head firring strips over the existing roof,
create an air pocket. Some allowed you to nail right
onto the roof, but I found it very much that
it was by brand, not the usual way of doing it.
So if you're going to tackle a large project and
you're not sure, first you got to read the instructions.
(18:48):
I always use roofing as a classic example. If you
don't follow exactly on how many nails you're going to use,
or or if you put the roof over an existing roof,
or if you don't have adequate ventilation, you have avoid warranty.
Speaker 6 (19:05):
That's why we say it's.
Speaker 1 (19:06):
So important to be working with a roofer that understands
what that manufacturer shingle is requiring. And some shimbo manufacturers
are now certifying certain roofers and whether it's roofing windows whatever,
You're gonna probably run into that. All right, Well, continue
(19:27):
with your calls. You're at home with Gary Sullivant.
Speaker 7 (19:38):
Takes it right with a call to Gary Cellivant at
one eight hundred eight two three talk this is at
home with Gary Cellibator.
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(22:22):
at home with Gary Slivan thirty three minutes after the
top of the hour, talking a little home improvement. Hope
you having a great weekend. By the way, if you
missed our conversation with Jeff Wheeling Wheelan home Builders, you
can pick that up on the iHeart app as a podcast.
A lot of good information about the state of the
(22:44):
home building industry, quite honestly, and just the third generation
home builder. His insights are very valuable and a good
conversation along with how to get rid of odors in
your home. We have that podcast up for you also,
plus each and every hour of today's show and yesterday's show,
(23:05):
so you can always pick that up wherever you get
your podcasts. The iHeart app. Just hit the magnifying glass
and put in at home with Gary Sullivan when we
had the conversation and I'll get off my soafbox. And
but when we had the conversation regarding the windows and
how to install anything in your house. And we've used
this phrase multiple times a day. Different substrates expansion, contraction, settling.
(23:34):
In other words, your house, though it is erect and solid,
it's moving all the time. It can move because of
the moisture content inside your house. It can move because
the ground is settling and then expanding and contracting and
all everything's moving. We talk about different types of calckings.
Speaker 6 (23:57):
Which one has the.
Speaker 1 (23:59):
Not much some time, sometimes just a tiny little bit.
We still recognize it a lot more. When everything in
our home was rigid. Isn't everything rigid down no, na
to a degree. But when we had plaster walls, you
knew things were moving. You could go into a home
(24:19):
that had plastered walls. And we still do have those
types of homes, for sure. And in a lot of cases,
you can look at the corner of most all windows
or doors and you will see a crack trailing from
that area to the ceiling, or you can tell that
(24:41):
it was patched and for more severe issues. Maybe at
the base of a hill, on top of a hill
where there's some settling, you can actually jack up or
peer your home as stabilize that home. A lot of
(25:02):
people don't realize that, but in a plaster home, you're
you're you know, when you patch that crack, if it's
not stabilized and it's a severe issue, it it can
still be moving. It'll re crack. If you're living in
a plaster home right now and you're listening to me
and you go, that's exactly what my problem is. Well,
(25:25):
you can have a structural engineer look at it. You
can have a company that does the work look at it.
It mays to have a conflict of interest there depends
how you feel about that. If you don't have the
cash and you just want that crack to disappear, there's
a way to patch that. And one of the products
(25:45):
that you might want to consider is a product called
crack coat. It's with k's k R a c K
KOTE and you'll clean out that crevice in that crack,
you'll put the crack coat on, you will put a
fiberglass tape over it, and you'll put the crack coat
(26:07):
on top of that you'll smooth it out.
Speaker 6 (26:09):
You'll kind of see where it was.
Speaker 1 (26:11):
You'll see the tape to a degree, you'll see the
little hump you know where it's patched. But the crack
will be gone. Now, whether it appears or that tape buckles,
because there's still movement, we'll see. That's where probably the
peering would be coming into play. But yeah, your house
(26:33):
is always moving. I mean, how many times have you
had to readjust your front door or maybe you just
ignore it. I've been talking the last three weeks about
energy costs and talking about weather stripping the front door
and all the really cool, neat types of weather stripping.
But if that door is not really square to the frame,
(26:57):
that's gonna be a little bit, little bit more work.
You build out hinges to get it sitting a little
bit better into the opening. But things are always moving.
And then when we're talking about the windows, that.
Speaker 6 (27:12):
Was the issue.
Speaker 1 (27:13):
Depending on how that window is put together depends on
whether you have to nail or how you nail it,
how you flash it. Always talk because it may have
to move, may have to adjust. Always talk at the
(27:33):
trim outside your entry door. Especially more you're newer homes,
you follow the trim molding all the way down to
where the stoop is a step, and you may find
it doesn't go all the way down to the concrete.
It's elevated by a half inch. And I see a
(27:56):
lot of people they see some wood rotting and they
start calking that base, and that actually makes the problem
worse because sometimes when we have leaks or rotted wood
down at a base of something, you have to look
up to find out exactly where that problem is. And
(28:21):
the calking actually would need to be at the top
because it's coming down the side of the wall. It's
getting behind that trim molding, it's working its way all
the way down behind that molding. That molding has gotten rotten.
You seal that bottom of that, and now that whole
cavity can fill or there's no way for the water
(28:41):
to escape. So always kind of be thinking about how
would water get there? If it's off the ground, it's
probably not getting in there from there unless the whole
slab's tilted back, and maybe the water's ponding right before
for the step up by the threshold. Maybe, but probably
(29:05):
even a better chance that the molding that's up against
the brick atop is allowing water to wash down the
sighting or wash down the brick and then get behind
that and then if you cock the bottom of that
thing again, that'll be a little bit of a mess
(29:26):
for sure. All right, start off today show, just talking
about how close the holidays are. Little projects to you know,
maybe aggravations that you have would be spend more time
in the kitchen and in a family room. And I
(29:47):
was talking about ceiling grout and cleaning grout and how
to even refinish the surface of the ground to get
new grout, and the importance of sealing it. The other
thing we're gonna use a lot here soon in many
areas of the country is the fireplace. And I haven't
(30:07):
talked about that much. I talked about it back in
August about maybe even end of July when it's nice
and hot outside, and I said, boy, now is the
time to call a chimney sweep and get on their schedule,
because they're going to get really busy come November and December.
(30:30):
I don't know if you've done that, but if it's
been three, four, five, six, just keep adding another number.
Since you've had the inside of your chimney not just cleaned,
but more so inspected, and you haven't done that yet.
(30:52):
I would certainly do that. As my friend always said,
that chimney should be inspected. Remember, you're building a fire
inside your home. That's kind of scary building a fire
inside your home. So is everything functioning in that chimney
(31:13):
to let out the smoke, let out the gases, et cetera.
If there's cracks in that liner, you don't know. You
could have a chimney fire and crack the liner and
never know you had a chimney fire. So the National
Fire Association has it They want you to have your
chimney clean and inspected every year.
Speaker 6 (31:34):
If you bought, if you burn a quart of wood,
if you.
Speaker 1 (31:38):
Burn just a little bit of wood, maybe a rica wood.
You know, maybe it's every two years and just a
fire once a year, maybe every three years. But you
got to have that inspected because build up of creosote
could allow a chimney fire to start in the chimney,
(32:02):
and if that liner is already cracked, your house is vulnerable.
And so cleaning the chimney is very important. And there's
other things on the outside too. They inspect, you know,
the flashing, the border in the chimney itself, the crown
(32:23):
wash which is at the top of the chimney that
ties the the liner to the brick. It gets cracked,
water gets in there, you got it, Water stains, wood,
rod stains in the ceiling, all signs. But having not
inspected and having it cleaned at least every other year
(32:47):
is key. If you just bought a house, please do
that before your first fire. Don't just assume everything's fine.
And that home inspector that did that inspection probably told
you to do that, um and you should. All right,
Let me give you the phone number and then we'll
wrap things up.
Speaker 6 (33:07):
Today.
Speaker 1 (33:08):
It's eight hundred eight two three eight two five five
year at Home.
Speaker 6 (33:12):
With Gary Sullivan.
Speaker 7 (33:14):
Help for your home is just a click away at
Garysullivan online dot com. This is at Home with Gary Sullivan.
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Speaker 6 (35:56):
And back in it.
Speaker 1 (35:57):
We go at Home with Gary Slvan again a reminder
of you, mister, conversation with Jeff Wheeling, custom home builder.
Speaker 6 (36:03):
Check it out.
Speaker 1 (36:03):
It's on the iHeart as a podcast at Home with
Gary Sullivan.
Speaker 6 (36:08):
All right, John, Welcome, Hi Harry. Hello.
Speaker 5 (36:13):
I I hope you're having a good day.
Speaker 6 (36:17):
So far, so good, John.
Speaker 1 (36:18):
I have.
Speaker 5 (36:20):
I have maybe a five hundred square foot crawl space
on a and I'd like to know Gary, the best
way to keep that crawl space warm?
Speaker 6 (36:35):
Oh so it's cold and damp now right.
Speaker 5 (36:40):
It's it's not damp. I have a dehumidifier in it.
Speaker 6 (36:44):
Okay, but.
Speaker 5 (36:46):
And I also have several light bulbs that I also
keep running during the winter. Light bulbs don't generate any
heat anymore.
Speaker 1 (36:57):
No, the LEDs don't incandescence to right.
Speaker 5 (37:01):
So, and I've just been thinking I need to give
Gary a call.
Speaker 6 (37:07):
Is it a vened cross space or yes?
Speaker 1 (37:11):
It is?
Speaker 5 (37:11):
And the events are closed?
Speaker 6 (37:13):
Okay, So have you.
Speaker 1 (37:18):
Just addressed issues of insulation.
Speaker 5 (37:24):
I have an issue of my outdoor frost free fawcet
bursting maybe once every five years.
Speaker 1 (37:34):
Okay, well the first so is that the main is
that the main reason John for introducing heat in.
Speaker 6 (37:43):
That cross space?
Speaker 2 (37:46):
Yes?
Speaker 1 (37:47):
Yes, Well I think what I would do first, I
would just address the faucet. So we got a frostproof faucet,
means that that washer in that seat is inside theace,
so there's water going to the frost proof faucet, and
(38:07):
there's no water in that pipe in the frost proof,
but the supply line is vulnerable and that's where it bursts.
Speaker 6 (38:16):
Okay, So one we get.
Speaker 2 (38:20):
Now.
Speaker 5 (38:20):
Luckily it bursts after the frost proof valve, so when
I replaced it this time, I made sure that the
valve had a drop to it so it would exit
any standing water.
Speaker 1 (38:39):
Yes, which is the way it should be installed. It
should be tilted forward and the hose should not be
attached to that valve.
Speaker 6 (38:49):
That is correct, okay, all right, So.
Speaker 1 (38:52):
If we've adjusted that where there's a tilt, it will
drain and then the only thing vulnerable would be the
supply line itself.
Speaker 6 (39:01):
And do we have plumbing wraps on that? I do
have plumbing wrap on that, okay, but.
Speaker 5 (39:09):
It's oh and the issue has always been with the
with the uh pros troof valve.
Speaker 1 (39:24):
Well, that's because it wasn't on a slope though, right.
Speaker 5 (39:28):
Absolutely, you are absolutely correct, but I don't I still
don't like it being.
Speaker 2 (39:34):
That cold.
Speaker 5 (39:35):
Okay.
Speaker 1 (39:36):
There, Well, that's fine, that's fine. At least we addressed
it the thing that can cause the damage. Right, We
got the valve installed properly now and we've got wraps
on the other copper lines, so now it's a matter
of comfort. So what I would do is I would
start the process of just insulating that particular thing you know,
(39:58):
you're gonna close off those vents. You're gonna you know,
start working as a encapsulation. We were starting to hear
more of the term whole house encapsulation, addic encapsulation, crawl
space encapsulation. So you seal the vents and all the gaps.
You can use phone calking for that, and then you
(40:22):
don't worry about the insulation on the underside of the
floor as much as covering the walls and the base
of the crawl space with a thick vapor barrier and
add insulation to the walls with you know, foam boards
and things like that. And then if you want to
introduce now we have an insulated space, not just an
(40:45):
insulated floor. And then at that point if we want
to add you know, maybe a supply vent from the
HVAC system. I don't know, if you know, if you
have a basement next to it, you could probably I
would check with my HVAC company. If you have a
regular annual furnace inspection, ask them about running a little
(41:08):
vent into the crawl space. And you can use a
damper and you know, cut that back, but you're adding
some supplemental heat. Some people tell you put a small
space heater. But I'm not a big fan.
Speaker 5 (41:23):
Yeah yeah, yeah, I wouldn't do that. My wife would
drive me out of the house. Yeah yeah, what do
you mean you have right? Okay, So there, to your knowledge,
there's nothing that would add some sixty degree air, you know,
(41:45):
via a fan, an external unit that would blow through
the access door if I cut a hole in it,
or something along those lines.
Speaker 6 (41:53):
Well, so let me ask you this.
Speaker 1 (41:55):
What I would be thinking is the other ambient heat
that's next to that crawl space. So I don't know
if that crawl space is totally sealed off. Like in
one of my homes, I had a finished basement that
was all dry walled and tight, and on the other
side of one of the walls was the crawl space
and there was an opening maybe of eighteen inches. And
(42:19):
what I did is I insulated the walls and everything.
Then I cut a hole in the dry wall and
installed like a grill where some of the heat from
that basement could just filter in there. And then I
had the walls of the crawl space insulated heavy vapor
barrier down on the floor, and it was you know,
(42:40):
I could never find it feel a draft from the
cross space, and I never had any issues. I mean
I was introducing some i'll say ambient heat into that
crawl space, which was more than enough.
Speaker 5 (42:55):
Yes, yes, well I can do some of those. This
particular house has a oil fired hot order heat and
this addition, of course, does not have that. And as
a living area inside the house, it's it's perfectly fine. Sure,
(43:17):
but obviously the piping for the rest of the house
keeps the original crawl space kind of toasty. So I
like your idea of bringing some ambient air from that
side of the crawl space into the cooler side of
the new crawl space.
Speaker 6 (43:38):
Yeah.
Speaker 1 (43:38):
And so another option, I mean, if you wanted a
system that would be safe, but you know, I mean
it's gonna be you know, a little bit costly is
to put like a mini split system just to heat
the crawl space. And I don't think you need that.
I think he just needs some warm air to drift
in there, and that would take care of it. John,
(43:58):
So good luck with you.
Speaker 6 (44:00):
Thanks for the call. I appreciated the music's playing.
Speaker 1 (44:02):
And that means we're going to wrap up another weekend.
Speaker 6 (44:05):
That's hard to believe.
Speaker 1 (44:06):
A busy weekend yesterday today, A little slow, but we
had good conversations with Jeff Wheeling and we talked about
getting rid of odors in your home and answered quite
a few questions too, Danny Boy, thank you very much,
Good Lord Willing. We'll both be back next weekend for more.
At Home with Gary Sullivan.
Speaker 7 (44:48):
Start a project and don't know how to finish it
and call Gary at one eight eight two three talk.
Speaker 8 (44:53):
You're at home with Gary Soliva, the Difficult, the
Speaker 6 (45:08):
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We thank them for their sponsorship of our show. And uh,
let me give you the phone number if you'd like
to grab a line do so. It's eight hundred eighty
(01:14):
two three eight two five five. Let's go to Rich
Rich Welcome, Hey, good morning morning.
Speaker 2 (01:24):
Hey.
Speaker 3 (01:24):
I'm replacing the windows in my home.
Speaker 4 (01:27):
It's a stucco house.
Speaker 3 (01:29):
I noticed when pulling the old ones out that some
of them had nails across the top of the window
and others didn't. Should I be nailing or screwing in
the top of the window.
Speaker 5 (01:40):
Or just the sides in the bottom.
Speaker 1 (01:44):
Is there any directions I tell you which to do
or not not that I saw. Yeah, I'm just assuming
they would all be screwed in.
Speaker 6 (01:54):
But I don't quite know her, to be honest with you.
Speaker 1 (01:58):
A lot of times the manufacturers have, you know, different
but they're all the same windows. I'm assuming that you're removing.
Speaker 3 (02:07):
Well, they're upgraded windows that I'm removed that i'm putting
in or installing.
Speaker 1 (02:12):
Yeah, but it doesn't have any installation instructions at all.
Speaker 3 (02:17):
They do, and I've perused through them and I didn't
see where it said to screw. But I've had others,
you know. I've had a friend of mine told me
when he put windows in his house, he didn't put
anything across the top, and I wasn't sure if that
was for it.
Speaker 1 (02:31):
Yeah, I'm not really sure. Keep listening and somebody will know.
I haven't put a window in a long long time.
Uh So keep listening. Well, we'll get you an answer,
rich And yeah, I'm surprised this time in the instructions.
But somebody can help us out, join us. It's eight
hundred eight two three eight two five five, or I
can quickly find out. I'm sure there's instructions that we
(02:53):
can grab onto. Sorry about that, happens every now and then.
Speaker 6 (02:57):
Bill, Welcome, Hey.
Speaker 2 (03:00):
Garrett, thanks for taking my call. Shored up a We
shored up a parking pad on the side of the
garage asphalt and everything's good underneath now got its surrounded.
It sits about two foot higher than the rest of
(03:22):
the ground around there. And all I got left to
fix is a little area that actually did sink down
and maybe a little bit of a tripping hazard. And
it does let the rain pond there since there's no
(03:47):
since there's no hole, you know, no leaking through it.
Is there something I can Is there maybe a liquid
I can get you fill in that hole? It's not
like if you probably if you had a gallon container,
(04:10):
I'm sure it would level that off very nicely. Is
there anything?
Speaker 6 (04:16):
All right?
Speaker 1 (04:16):
So let's go through this little step by step so
I can tune in exactly where you're at. Is this
near the garage or so you got to you gotta pad?
Is that what you said?
Speaker 6 (04:29):
Concrete pan.
Speaker 2 (04:33):
As falt pad goes up butts up against the one
side of the garage.
Speaker 1 (04:38):
Okay, so we have a pad there and then what's
on the other side of it? Are going up to
that pad? You said something about it being elevated.
Speaker 2 (04:48):
Uh yeah, there's actually steps coming off of which we
just replaced concrete steps coming off of the pad going
down the rest of the sidewalk.
Speaker 1 (05:00):
Okay, so we have an does it have steps? How
do you get up there?
Speaker 6 (05:05):
Now?
Speaker 2 (05:07):
Yeah? Yeah, there's there was steps. Now there's new steps okay,
and new new concrete surrounding it.
Speaker 6 (05:16):
Okay, So where's the hole?
Speaker 2 (05:20):
The whole time, I'll stay kind of in the middle.
It's away from all the edges, but it's just in it.
And again it's not it's not through the asphalt sunk
down with it, and it's just it's just a low
spot there.
Speaker 1 (05:40):
So the low spot, there's a dip in the sphalt
on the.
Speaker 2 (05:44):
Pad, correct, correct?
Speaker 6 (05:47):
All right?
Speaker 1 (05:48):
And and you how deep is it? I'll say across yes, correct?
Speaker 6 (06:02):
Three inches? Okay? All right?
Speaker 1 (06:04):
Yeah, yeah, So you would use a patch, you wouldn't
use a liquid, and you would need that patch to
be held by the existing asphalt. So what you would
do is you would go to go to the sides
(06:25):
of I'll call it it's almost like a saucer, right,
I mean, it's it's just kind of slopes down, slopes up.
So it's kind of like an like you just planted
a saucer in there, and what we want to do
is we want to plant a a like a cake
pan in there with square sides. So we're going to
(06:46):
go up to the highest points and we're going to
take a cold chism. We're going to cut down into
that asphalt. Okay, So we're gonna square up the sides
around that saucer.
Speaker 6 (07:00):
We're gonna then we're going to break up some.
Speaker 1 (07:02):
Of that asphalt, get some of that asphalt out there,
so when we put in the patch, it's going to
attach itself to the sides that we've created.
Speaker 2 (07:16):
Okay, So you're saying if I tried to do if
I try to do the same thing without squaring it up,
it's not going to have enough.
Speaker 6 (07:24):
To grab That's correct. That's correct.
Speaker 1 (07:26):
So now okay, now I know what you're thinking. But remember,
if it's a two inch dip and we just square
up the sides from the highest point, really you're probably
going to have enough to contain that patch without taking
a bunch of the asphalt out of the middle, because
(07:48):
it's already two inches lower, right, So yeah, but you're
going to have to square them off, otherwise you're going
to continue to have the problem.
Speaker 2 (08:00):
And okay, and since I never worked with the asphalt before.
Speaker 6 (08:08):
They have it.
Speaker 2 (08:09):
It's a big box store or.
Speaker 1 (08:11):
Yeah, yeah, so you'll get it, you know, probably fifty
sixty pound bag. You can get a little bucket too
in some cases, I mean Quick Creek makes it. There's
numerous Sacrete makes it. It's a stone about so it's
a it's a it's an asphalt or tar based product
(08:32):
that has very very small little stones in it. And
it's what they would use to repair potholes on a street.
Speaker 2 (08:44):
And and again I've never done that either, right, so
this will all be new to me. And you mix
it out, but you do concrete.
Speaker 1 (08:56):
No, no, it's pre mixed. It's pre mixed, so you
square up the side. You'll get a trial or something
to scoop it out of the bucket, put it into
the center of that, uh something to tamp it down.
They have tampers. You can rent a tamper. Maybe your
neighbor's got a tampre. You're just gonna compress that and
(09:18):
tamp that down till its flush and level.
Speaker 2 (09:22):
Awesome, awesome, all right? And does this product tear because
we're getting into this time of year, or do you
think I can squeeze it in before it gets h.
Speaker 6 (09:34):
You'll be fine, Yeah, you'll be fine. You'll be fine. Yeah.
I wouldn't do it when it's.
Speaker 1 (09:40):
You know, below freezing, but right now chili, Yeah, you're fine.
Speaker 2 (09:44):
Okay, great, Garrett, Thanks, thank you so much.
Speaker 6 (09:47):
You're quite welcome. Thank you.
Speaker 1 (09:49):
All right, let's go to a break and then we'll
come back. And we got Steve and Milton. If you'd
like to join us, do so.
Speaker 6 (09:56):
You're at home with Carrie Sullivan.
Speaker 7 (10:00):
And you have fixed questions. Give Gary a call and
one eight hundred and eighty two three talk this. He's
at home with gary' sullivant.
Speaker 8 (10:15):
Thanks.
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(10:47):
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And back at it.
Speaker 1 (12:42):
We go at home with Gary Sullivan talking a little
home improvement.
Speaker 6 (12:45):
If you'd like to join us, do so.
Speaker 1 (12:47):
It's eight hundred eight two three eight two five five
and let's go to Milton. Milton Welcome, Good morning, Gary.
Speaker 4 (12:55):
Uh yeah, I'd like to show a list vi of
often that's always nice to pick up details and learn something,
so thank you. I was calling about your listener's question
about those windows and the confusion about the top rail
(13:15):
of First, of all, those windows are quite expensive. It
adds up quite quite a lot. The first thing I
would do is get to the manufacturer. Don't be satisfied
with the instructions to come with the window. Get to
the manufacturer and make sure that you're clear on their calking,
(13:36):
anchoring and flashing procedures to protect that warranty. That and
be persistent if they, you know, be persistent and be pesky,
you know, be a squeaky wheel till you get a
satisfactory answer. That being said, that idea with the top rail,
(13:57):
what the window people didn't want to do is have
any set in the house affect the movement of the windows.
If you nail that top rail hard, any settling would
drag the top rail down and interfere with the windows.
So to avoid that, what they would do is tag
(14:19):
off the sides in the bottom for the manufacturer's instructions
and on the top we would we would anchor. They
would be usually be using nails for this, so they
would actually nail nail off the top about a half
inch above the fin itself, leaving nail hanging out, cut
(14:39):
off the head of the nail, and bend it over
the top rail the top fin That would allow any deflection,
It would hold it in basically, but at the same
time it would allow for deflection in the top. Anchoring
in the wood behind at the top of the window.
This was especially a new construction.
Speaker 1 (14:59):
Right, because some of your I think he said he
was replacing windowside. That's why I kept saying, what brand
are there instructions? I mean, something to get us started.
And I guess the question I probably should have asked,
is there is there even a nail fin at the top?
Speaker 6 (15:14):
Correct?
Speaker 4 (15:15):
It sounded like a finned window, but it could have been.
It wasn't quite specific on that. It could be just
a just a block frame window he's installing, in which
case it would be anchored through the side sides and
that yeah, horizontally and I mean not from the face, right.
(15:36):
I hope that helps. But the main thing is get
with that manufacturer.
Speaker 2 (15:41):
Warrant.
Speaker 1 (15:42):
Yeah, absolutely, Milton and I get asked some of those
questions a lot, and they're difficult to answer because even
in metal roofing, when we had the other fellow with
the washer on the metal roofing, a lot of these
all metal roofings aren't created the same, All windows aren't
created the same. They do have specific instructions or manufacturer recommendations,
(16:06):
and so much of these big investments. You can if
you don't know what you're doing, you definitely know what
you're doing.
Speaker 4 (16:14):
I mean, believe me, if they can balk on all cover. Oh,
any any excuse will do. If you're looking for an excuse,
any excuse will do, so don't give them one.
Speaker 1 (16:25):
Well, appreciate your input, just doing a quick little change,
because I didn't feel like I adequately answered that question.
But the very first sentence, and when I was looking
it up, is when installing windows, whether you nail all
four sides depends on the type of window and manufacturers
instructions absolutely, which is kind of what we're both saying. Milton,
(16:46):
thank you so much. I appreciate it.
Speaker 4 (16:48):
Yes, so nice to meet you.
Speaker 6 (16:49):
All right, take care, thank you? All right?
Speaker 1 (16:52):
So there, Yeah, well sometimes we I get asked this
question a lot too, and that is do you think
I can do that? I don't know the answer to
that question. The real question back to you is how
comfortable are you of doing that project? And in today's age,
(17:16):
quite honestly, it gets easier and easier to accomplish some
of these tasks. Many many manufacturers, and I talk about them,
Dice Codings being one, quick Crek being one, Roto Ruter
being one. They have detailed videos on how to install
(17:40):
or use their products, and you know, if you're going
to tackle a project like that, as Milton was saying,
be a pain, keep going to the manufacturers, or at
the very least read those instructions, go to their website,
see if they have videos.
Speaker 6 (18:01):
Go to YouTube and see.
Speaker 1 (18:03):
You know, you got to know a little bit and
then you got to learn a lot more. Is kind
of the way I see things, because different manufacturers want
different things in their installation. Used to be I don't
know if it still is or not. Metal roofing. Some
(18:24):
brands like to head firring strips over the existing roof,
create an air pocket. Some allowed you to nail right
onto the roof, but I found it very much that
it was by brand, not the usual way of doing it.
So if you're going to tackle a large project and
you're not sure, first you got to read the instructions.
(18:48):
I always use roofing as a classic example. If you
don't follow exactly on how many nails you're going to use,
or or if you put the roof over an existing roof,
or if you don't have adequate ventilation, you have avoid warranty.
Speaker 6 (19:05):
That's why we say it's.
Speaker 1 (19:06):
So important to be working with a roofer that understands
what that manufacturer shingle is requiring. And some shimbo manufacturers
are now certifying certain roofers and whether it's roofing windows whatever,
You're gonna probably run into that. All right, Well, continue
(19:27):
with your calls. You're at home with Gary Sullivant.
Speaker 7 (19:38):
Takes it right with a call to Gary Cellivant at
one eight hundred eight two three talk this is at
home with Gary Cellibator.
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(22:22):
at home with Gary Slivan thirty three minutes after the
top of the hour, talking a little home improvement. Hope
you having a great weekend. By the way, if you
missed our conversation with Jeff Wheeling Wheelan home Builders, you
can pick that up on the iHeart app as a podcast.
A lot of good information about the state of the
(22:44):
home building industry, quite honestly, and just the third generation
home builder. His insights are very valuable and a good
conversation along with how to get rid of odors in
your home. We have that podcast up for you also,
plus each and every hour of today's show and yesterday's show,
(23:05):
so you can always pick that up wherever you get
your podcasts. The iHeart app. Just hit the magnifying glass
and put in at home with Gary Sullivan when we
had the conversation and I'll get off my soafbox. And
but when we had the conversation regarding the windows and
how to install anything in your house. And we've used
this phrase multiple times a day. Different substrates expansion, contraction, settling.
(23:34):
In other words, your house, though it is erect and solid,
it's moving all the time. It can move because of
the moisture content inside your house. It can move because
the ground is settling and then expanding and contracting and
all everything's moving. We talk about different types of calckings.
Speaker 6 (23:57):
Which one has the.
Speaker 1 (23:59):
Not much some time, sometimes just a tiny little bit.
We still recognize it a lot more. When everything in
our home was rigid. Isn't everything rigid down no, na
to a degree. But when we had plaster walls, you
knew things were moving. You could go into a home
(24:19):
that had plastered walls. And we still do have those
types of homes, for sure. And in a lot of cases,
you can look at the corner of most all windows
or doors and you will see a crack trailing from
that area to the ceiling, or you can tell that
(24:41):
it was patched and for more severe issues. Maybe at
the base of a hill, on top of a hill
where there's some settling, you can actually jack up or
peer your home as stabilize that home. A lot of
(25:02):
people don't realize that, but in a plaster home, you're
you're you know, when you patch that crack, if it's
not stabilized and it's a severe issue, it it can
still be moving. It'll re crack. If you're living in
a plaster home right now and you're listening to me
and you go, that's exactly what my problem is. Well,
(25:25):
you can have a structural engineer look at it. You
can have a company that does the work look at it.
It mays to have a conflict of interest there depends
how you feel about that. If you don't have the
cash and you just want that crack to disappear, there's
a way to patch that. And one of the products
(25:45):
that you might want to consider is a product called
crack coat. It's with k's k R a c K
KOTE and you'll clean out that crevice in that crack,
you'll put the crack coat on, you will put a
fiberglass tape over it, and you'll put the crack coat
(26:07):
on top of that you'll smooth it out.
Speaker 6 (26:09):
You'll kind of see where it was.
Speaker 1 (26:11):
You'll see the tape to a degree, you'll see the
little hump you know where it's patched. But the crack
will be gone. Now, whether it appears or that tape buckles,
because there's still movement, we'll see. That's where probably the
peering would be coming into play. But yeah, your house
(26:33):
is always moving. I mean, how many times have you
had to readjust your front door or maybe you just
ignore it. I've been talking the last three weeks about
energy costs and talking about weather stripping the front door
and all the really cool, neat types of weather stripping.
But if that door is not really square to the frame,
(26:57):
that's gonna be a little bit, little bit more work.
You build out hinges to get it sitting a little
bit better into the opening. But things are always moving.
And then when we're talking about the windows, that.
Speaker 6 (27:12):
Was the issue.
Speaker 1 (27:13):
Depending on how that window is put together depends on
whether you have to nail or how you nail it,
how you flash it. Always talk because it may have
to move, may have to adjust. Always talk at the
(27:33):
trim outside your entry door. Especially more you're newer homes,
you follow the trim molding all the way down to
where the stoop is a step, and you may find
it doesn't go all the way down to the concrete.
It's elevated by a half inch. And I see a
(27:56):
lot of people they see some wood rotting and they
start calking that base, and that actually makes the problem
worse because sometimes when we have leaks or rotted wood
down at a base of something, you have to look
up to find out exactly where that problem is. And
(28:21):
the calking actually would need to be at the top
because it's coming down the side of the wall. It's
getting behind that trim molding, it's working its way all
the way down behind that molding. That molding has gotten rotten.
You seal that bottom of that, and now that whole
cavity can fill or there's no way for the water
(28:41):
to escape. So always kind of be thinking about how
would water get there? If it's off the ground, it's
probably not getting in there from there unless the whole
slab's tilted back, and maybe the water's ponding right before
for the step up by the threshold. Maybe, but probably
(29:05):
even a better chance that the molding that's up against
the brick atop is allowing water to wash down the
sighting or wash down the brick and then get behind
that and then if you cock the bottom of that
thing again, that'll be a little bit of a mess
(29:26):
for sure. All right, start off today show, just talking
about how close the holidays are. Little projects to you know,
maybe aggravations that you have would be spend more time
in the kitchen and in a family room. And I
(29:47):
was talking about ceiling grout and cleaning grout and how
to even refinish the surface of the ground to get
new grout, and the importance of sealing it. The other
thing we're gonna use a lot here soon in many
areas of the country is the fireplace. And I haven't
(30:07):
talked about that much. I talked about it back in
August about maybe even end of July when it's nice
and hot outside, and I said, boy, now is the
time to call a chimney sweep and get on their schedule,
because they're going to get really busy come November and December.
(30:30):
I don't know if you've done that, but if it's
been three, four, five, six, just keep adding another number.
Since you've had the inside of your chimney not just cleaned,
but more so inspected, and you haven't done that yet.
(30:52):
I would certainly do that. As my friend always said,
that chimney should be inspected. Remember, you're building a fire
inside your home. That's kind of scary building a fire
inside your home. So is everything functioning in that chimney
(31:13):
to let out the smoke, let out the gases, et cetera.
If there's cracks in that liner, you don't know. You
could have a chimney fire and crack the liner and
never know you had a chimney fire. So the National
Fire Association has it They want you to have your
chimney clean and inspected every year.
Speaker 6 (31:34):
If you bought, if you burn a quart of wood,
if you.
Speaker 1 (31:38):
Burn just a little bit of wood, maybe a rica wood.
You know, maybe it's every two years and just a
fire once a year, maybe every three years. But you
got to have that inspected because build up of creosote
could allow a chimney fire to start in the chimney,
(32:02):
and if that liner is already cracked, your house is vulnerable.
And so cleaning the chimney is very important. And there's
other things on the outside too. They inspect, you know,
the flashing, the border in the chimney itself, the crown
(32:23):
wash which is at the top of the chimney that
ties the the liner to the brick. It gets cracked,
water gets in there, you got it, Water stains, wood,
rod stains in the ceiling, all signs. But having not
inspected and having it cleaned at least every other year
(32:47):
is key. If you just bought a house, please do
that before your first fire. Don't just assume everything's fine.
And that home inspector that did that inspection probably told
you to do that, um and you should. All right,
Let me give you the phone number and then we'll
wrap things up.
Speaker 6 (33:07):
Today.
Speaker 1 (33:08):
It's eight hundred eight two three eight two five five
year at Home.
Speaker 6 (33:12):
With Gary Sullivan.
Speaker 7 (33:14):
Help for your home is just a click away at
Garysullivan online dot com. This is at Home with Gary Sullivan.
Speaker 1 (33:38):
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(34:07):
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Speaker 6 (35:56):
And back in it.
Speaker 1 (35:57):
We go at Home with Gary Slvan again a reminder
of you, mister, conversation with Jeff Wheeling, custom home builder.
Speaker 6 (36:03):
Check it out.
Speaker 1 (36:03):
It's on the iHeart as a podcast at Home with
Gary Sullivan.
Speaker 6 (36:08):
All right, John, Welcome, Hi Harry. Hello.
Speaker 5 (36:13):
I I hope you're having a good day.
Speaker 6 (36:17):
So far, so good, John.
Speaker 1 (36:18):
I have.
Speaker 5 (36:20):
I have maybe a five hundred square foot crawl space
on a and I'd like to know Gary, the best
way to keep that crawl space warm?
Speaker 6 (36:35):
Oh so it's cold and damp now right.
Speaker 5 (36:40):
It's it's not damp. I have a dehumidifier in it.
Speaker 6 (36:44):
Okay, but.
Speaker 5 (36:46):
And I also have several light bulbs that I also
keep running during the winter. Light bulbs don't generate any
heat anymore.
Speaker 1 (36:57):
No, the LEDs don't incandescence to right.
Speaker 5 (37:01):
So, and I've just been thinking I need to give
Gary a call.
Speaker 6 (37:07):
Is it a vened cross space or yes?
Speaker 1 (37:11):
It is?
Speaker 5 (37:11):
And the events are closed?
Speaker 6 (37:13):
Okay, So have you.
Speaker 1 (37:18):
Just addressed issues of insulation.
Speaker 5 (37:24):
I have an issue of my outdoor frost free fawcet
bursting maybe once every five years.
Speaker 1 (37:34):
Okay, well the first so is that the main is
that the main reason John for introducing heat in.
Speaker 6 (37:43):
That cross space?
Speaker 2 (37:46):
Yes?
Speaker 1 (37:47):
Yes, Well I think what I would do first, I
would just address the faucet. So we got a frostproof faucet,
means that that washer in that seat is inside theace,
so there's water going to the frost proof faucet, and
(38:07):
there's no water in that pipe in the frost proof,
but the supply line is vulnerable and that's where it bursts.
Speaker 6 (38:16):
Okay, So one we get.
Speaker 2 (38:20):
Now.
Speaker 5 (38:20):
Luckily it bursts after the frost proof valve, so when
I replaced it this time, I made sure that the
valve had a drop to it so it would exit
any standing water.
Speaker 1 (38:39):
Yes, which is the way it should be installed. It
should be tilted forward and the hose should not be
attached to that valve.
Speaker 6 (38:49):
That is correct, okay, all right, So.
Speaker 1 (38:52):
If we've adjusted that where there's a tilt, it will
drain and then the only thing vulnerable would be the
supply line itself.
Speaker 6 (39:01):
And do we have plumbing wraps on that? I do
have plumbing wrap on that, okay, but.
Speaker 5 (39:09):
It's oh and the issue has always been with the
with the uh pros troof valve.
Speaker 1 (39:24):
Well, that's because it wasn't on a slope though, right.
Speaker 5 (39:28):
Absolutely, you are absolutely correct, but I don't I still
don't like it being.
Speaker 2 (39:34):
That cold.
Speaker 5 (39:35):
Okay.
Speaker 1 (39:36):
There, Well, that's fine, that's fine. At least we addressed
it the thing that can cause the damage. Right, We
got the valve installed properly now and we've got wraps
on the other copper lines, so now it's a matter
of comfort. So what I would do is I would
start the process of just insulating that particular thing you know,
(39:58):
you're gonna close off those vents. You're gonna you know,
start working as a encapsulation. We were starting to hear
more of the term whole house encapsulation, addic encapsulation, crawl
space encapsulation. So you seal the vents and all the gaps.
You can use phone calking for that, and then you
(40:22):
don't worry about the insulation on the underside of the
floor as much as covering the walls and the base
of the crawl space with a thick vapor barrier and
add insulation to the walls with you know, foam boards
and things like that. And then if you want to
introduce now we have an insulated space, not just an
(40:45):
insulated floor. And then at that point if we want
to add you know, maybe a supply vent from the
HVAC system. I don't know, if you know, if you
have a basement next to it, you could probably I
would check with my HVAC company. If you have a
regular annual furnace inspection, ask them about running a little
(41:08):
vent into the crawl space. And you can use a
damper and you know, cut that back, but you're adding
some supplemental heat. Some people tell you put a small
space heater. But I'm not a big fan.
Speaker 5 (41:23):
Yeah yeah, yeah, I wouldn't do that. My wife would
drive me out of the house. Yeah yeah, what do
you mean you have right? Okay, So there, to your knowledge,
there's nothing that would add some sixty degree air, you know,
(41:45):
via a fan, an external unit that would blow through
the access door if I cut a hole in it,
or something along those lines.
Speaker 6 (41:53):
Well, so let me ask you this.
Speaker 1 (41:55):
What I would be thinking is the other ambient heat
that's next to that crawl space. So I don't know
if that crawl space is totally sealed off. Like in
one of my homes, I had a finished basement that
was all dry walled and tight, and on the other
side of one of the walls was the crawl space
and there was an opening maybe of eighteen inches. And
(42:19):
what I did is I insulated the walls and everything.
Then I cut a hole in the dry wall and
installed like a grill where some of the heat from
that basement could just filter in there. And then I
had the walls of the crawl space insulated heavy vapor
barrier down on the floor, and it was you know,
(42:40):
I could never find it feel a draft from the
cross space, and I never had any issues. I mean
I was introducing some i'll say ambient heat into that
crawl space, which was more than enough.
Speaker 5 (42:55):
Yes, yes, well I can do some of those. This
particular house has a oil fired hot order heat and
this addition, of course, does not have that. And as
a living area inside the house, it's it's perfectly fine. Sure,
(43:17):
but obviously the piping for the rest of the house
keeps the original crawl space kind of toasty. So I
like your idea of bringing some ambient air from that
side of the crawl space into the cooler side of
the new crawl space.
Speaker 6 (43:38):
Yeah.
Speaker 1 (43:38):
And so another option, I mean, if you wanted a
system that would be safe, but you know, I mean
it's gonna be you know, a little bit costly is
to put like a mini split system just to heat
the crawl space. And I don't think you need that.
I think he just needs some warm air to drift
in there, and that would take care of it. John,
(43:58):
So good luck with you.
Speaker 6 (44:00):
Thanks for the call. I appreciated the music's playing.
Speaker 1 (44:02):
And that means we're going to wrap up another weekend.
Speaker 6 (44:05):
That's hard to believe.
Speaker 1 (44:06):
A busy weekend yesterday today, A little slow, but we
had good conversations with Jeff Wheeling and we talked about
getting rid of odors in your home and answered quite
a few questions too, Danny Boy, thank you very much,
Good Lord Willing. We'll both be back next weekend for more.
At Home with Gary Sullivan.
Speaker 7 (44:48):
Start a project and don't know how to finish it
and call Gary at one eight eight two three talk.
Speaker 8 (44:53):
You're at home with Gary Soliva, the Difficult, the
Speaker 6 (45:08):
Dep
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