Episode Transcript
Available transcripts are automatically generated. Complete accuracy is not guaranteed.
Speaker 1 (00:30):
Well, the weekends upon us. Welcome. You're at home with
Gary Salvan. This hour has brought to you by Easy Breathe.
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(01:14):
and they're sponsoring this hour of the show and we
certainly appreciate that. All right, you got the phone number,
go ahead and grab a line. It's eight hundred eight
two three, eight two five five. We got four or
five lines open. Let's go to Joe. Joe welcome, say
good morning, how are you. I'm doing fine, Thank you, sir.
Speaker 2 (01:34):
It's good to find a talk you. I've listened to
you for years. But anyway, I've got a question. You
were talking with the young lady this morning about mold
in her house, and it got me to thinking about
a situation in my personal shower. I pulled the drain
this morning, the drain cap. And this is a new home,
it's about two years old. And I pulled the drain
cap and I looked down there and I see black
(01:56):
on top of the white TBC pipe. Now, about six
months ago, I cleaned out that TVC pipe with a
toilet brush and just got down there and scrubbed it
and brought a bunch of black stuff up, and the
pipe was white underneath that. So I said, okay, well,
I'm cleaning it. Maybe it was just residue from when
they built the house. I doubt it, but I'll check
(02:19):
it again in a while. And my wife was surprised
to see that. Nonetheless, she got me thinking it might
be mold. I just want to get your opinion.
Speaker 1 (02:28):
Well, it could be. Is it inside the pipe? On
the outside of the pipe, it sounds like inside the pipe.
Speaker 2 (02:34):
It is inside the pipe. And to back up a bit,
when I bought the house, I installed a carbon block
filter standalone d mineralizer and a salt softening system and
then run that through an UV filter coming back into
the house. All the house water is city water that's
(02:55):
been filtered.
Speaker 1 (02:59):
So here's what I think it is. All right, I'm
just hearing what you're telling me and not seeing it.
But if it's inside the pipe, it's probably more bacteria
than molds and mildews. So here's what I'm talking about.
Your water could be as clean and as safe as
(03:21):
anybody's water, But when you're in the shower, we have
oil on our skin. We have so many products for hygiene, shampoos, deodorants, toothpaste,
shaving creams. They're all made with stuff that's gel in
(03:45):
helps it stick right to our bodies. And we get
in a shower and we rinse all that stuff and
it builds up a stickiness inside the pipes. And then
we've got dead skin that flakes off, and we got
dust in our house, and so we're adding we got
(04:05):
sticky residue, a damp surface, and we we've got all
the ingredients to create a black goo. All right, I
think that's exactly what it is. It can be called biofilm.
There are different So it's something that you can treat.
(04:26):
One of the things that we never used to talk
about is maintenance of our pipes in our home, and
now we find ourselves talking about that because of this
whole biofilm and I call goo and it's almost like
a black jelly sometimes when it gets real bad, and
(04:47):
bleach in a lot of cases doesn't take care of
that because it's kind of hard and slippery, and there's
different products out I.
Speaker 2 (04:57):
Would run bleach down those lines. I'm going into it.
Speaker 1 (05:00):
Septic system, Okay, So there are products that are septic safe.
There's different basiliases or microbes that eat that, and you'll
see them a lot in hardware stores. Now. It's one
called Draino. There's one called Master I think it's Masterkem.
(05:25):
It's a powder or a liquid mixed with warm water,
poured down the drain and allowed to sit for twenty
four hours. It just kind of eats that keeps it clear,
keeps it free flowing. I talk about one called Awesome.
It can be used on drains. It's mainly used for
like closed plumbing systems like a jetted bathtub, a dishwasher,
(05:51):
a washing machine, where it's in those pipes that you
can't really get to. So it's a kind of a
common problem now, and I think I just get some
enzyme cleaners in that drain and try and clean them out.
Speaker 2 (06:09):
Okay, And those enzymes cleaners wouldn't harm the bacteria. It's
in the septic system, No, make.
Speaker 1 (06:15):
Sure it says septic safe. But most of the ones
I've seen, they are septic safe.
Speaker 2 (06:20):
Okay. All right, So in your experience, it could be mold,
but it's more than likely just a biofilm residue.
Speaker 1 (06:27):
That's what I think it is. Yes, Okay, and let
me add this too. Let me add this to if
it were mildew. I'm not sure there's a whole lot
you're going to do with it, because you know what's
mildew need. It needs organic material and certainly, I mean
dead skin can be organic material, dust can be organic material.
(06:51):
Certainly have that in the drain. You have to have moisture.
We certainly have moisture in pipes and in showers. And
the other thing we need is what mold sportes and
mold spores are everywhere. Okay, Right, you know, i'd go
with the biofilm first because you're not gonna do much
about the mold and if you want to, you know,
(07:13):
scrub it out. I just don't think there'd be enough
there to really not to marginalize it. But I don't
think there's you know, not much you're going to do
with that. But the biofilm, I'd get that out of there,
because eventually he can build up and clog and create
some other problems.
Speaker 2 (07:29):
Okay, that's interesting because it goes all the way down
into the p trap and as far as that can
be anyway, and I can only get to a certain
section of it. I can only go down so far
with the scrubber brush.
Speaker 1 (07:40):
Yeah, And there's also different things. I mean, I think
the enzymes and things are the way you'd want to go,
but there's also different things of depending on how heavy
it is, and if it is a gel, you can
actually suck that out with a shot back. If it
starts slowing down the trapster, I shot back you could use.
(08:00):
They have these I call them powerwashers for drain pipes,
where you'd hook it up to like take the errator
off the vanity sink, screw that on. It's got a
maybe quarter inch tube and a pic almost like you'd
see in a dentis office or something that you can
feed down that pipe and it kind of blasts away.
(08:21):
The gunk pushes it down further and hopefully there's enough
water where you can flush some of that out, but
you really want to get to that source of it,
which goes back to the enzymes.
Speaker 2 (08:34):
Okay, all right, great to know. I do appreciate it.
Speaker 1 (08:38):
Thanks sir, You're quite welcome. Thank you.
Speaker 2 (08:40):
Appreciate your show too, Thank you, sir.
Speaker 1 (08:42):
Appreciate it. All right, let's take a little break. We'll
come back and we got Jim and by the way,
if you'd like to join us, we've got a spot
just for you. It's eight hundred eight two three eight
two five five At home with Gary Sullivan.
Speaker 3 (08:56):
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Speaker 1 (09:20):
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near you. All right back at it we go. Nineteen
(11:49):
minutes after the top of the area, you're at home
with Gary Sullivan, No guests at the bottom of the air,
just Jew and me talking about your home projects. And
go ahead and grab a line and we'll chat about
what you're working on. Fair enough all right, let's get
back to the phone calls. We'll go to Jim. Jim,
welcome morning.
Speaker 4 (12:08):
I want I want to add a post to my basement.
I want to secure it to the floor. If I
drill through that floor and water eventually seeps up, Uh,
what can I do to stop that water?
Speaker 1 (12:28):
Well? Do you have a sump well in that basement?
Speaker 4 (12:33):
Yeah, but it's just for the washing machine. It's never flooded.
It flooded. I got three inches in it last year
because of my gutter's rower flooring. I was it was
a mess. It was it. And so I've been there
twenty years and that's the only time it's ever done it,
and that was.
Speaker 1 (12:52):
I guess, yeah, I guess. My question. If you drill
a floor and water comes up, the answer is how
do I stop it? You prevent it from building up,
and that is you control the water by allowing it
to go into a sump well or something that could
then be pumped away from the from the house. I mean,
there's hydraulic cements which hold back water. It doesn't really
(13:16):
solve the problem. It keeps it from coming in, but
the water is still there. So then what are you
going to do?
Speaker 4 (13:24):
Well, I'm at.
Speaker 2 (13:27):
With steam?
Speaker 4 (13:28):
Was steam I lowered sea level here in the poured
an area, and so I'm at three feet m and
with the basement. But that's eight feet underground me. That's it.
So on my basement on apparently five people below sea level.
Speaker 1 (13:47):
So what are you putting the postings to do?
Speaker 2 (13:52):
There's a.
Speaker 4 (13:55):
Years ago when they added the gas furnace. There's a
support running a support beam. Well, they took out most
of it for the venting, and they built a short
wall here and a short wall there. I want to
take out one of those short walls and stick in
(14:17):
a post.
Speaker 1 (14:17):
Okay, so how thick is that concrete?
Speaker 4 (14:21):
That's what I want to do. I've I've messed with
chunks here in there. It's either two to three inches stick.
I believe I've drilled through it. I've drilled through the
walls before and put studs and tea rock and whatnot.
No water has ever coming through those holes.
Speaker 1 (14:41):
M Have you done a lot study for that post?
Speaker 4 (14:48):
It's just four by six. There's a four by six
probably two feet away from it.
Speaker 1 (14:53):
Is it an iron or is it just a wood?
I beam or.
Speaker 4 (14:58):
It's wood? It's a is a four x six that goes,
that goes across holding up the gost the four joysts
from upstairs, you.
Speaker 1 (15:07):
Know, well without seeing it again is a little bit
of a problem. My take on this is quite honestly.
I think i'd get, you know, somebody, do a load
study out and make sure that concrete is going to
be thick enough to support or do we need to
put a you know, almost a pylon.
Speaker 5 (15:27):
Or a.
Speaker 1 (15:29):
Footer in there to support the post below the contract.
Speaker 4 (15:33):
That's what I want to do. I want to I
wanted I want to dig a hole. Who I can
make a who I can make a pad below ground
and then bring it and then raise it up like
three inches above the floors.
Speaker 1 (15:48):
H Well, what happens if we I mean again, if
we took a quarter inch bit and drilled through that,
we could determine how deep that is. We could determine
if there's water underneath there.
Speaker 4 (16:03):
I mean, I think that would That's that's step one. Yeah,
I know that hole and water comes up. So there's
hydraulic cement.
Speaker 1 (16:12):
Hydraulic cement, right, So the hydraulic cement is a cement
that expands as it dries, and it dries in like
a minute, and you can patch it with water flowing
through the hole.
Speaker 4 (16:28):
Yeah, that's that. That's a red bag, I believe.
Speaker 1 (16:31):
Yeah, so remember yet it is so remember that water
table beneath that floor is changing depending on the amount
of rain that we're having. And you know, so you know,
one day you don't get it, and the next day
you may have it.
Speaker 4 (16:49):
I tried to get the hold of the city yesterday.
They transferred to talk to these guys transfer transfer and
about noon, at one o'clock, I got I'll got the
message on a guy on a Friday afternoon, so you know,
and I didn't want to wait till Monday to try
(17:10):
to get an answered.
Speaker 6 (17:12):
I feel like drill a hole, well, i'd you know,
you can do anything you want to do, but if
it were me, I'd probably wait till I had to
somebody to really take a look at it.
Speaker 1 (17:22):
Deals with that stuff all the time. But if you're
going to drill a hole again, probably a quarter inch bit,
have some hydraulic cement, you know, kind of ready to go,
and don't mix it with water yet and it's probably
not going to spray up. It'll probably just dos and
then you might have your answer.
Speaker 4 (17:44):
I might wait till Monday answer, if they got a map.
Speaker 1 (17:46):
I think that's a good idea.
Speaker 4 (17:48):
I mean winter, I mean in August, it's going to
be different.
Speaker 1 (17:52):
Exactly. But yeah, I think that's a good choice. I
really do. All righty, thank you much for the car.
I appreciate. One other thing I'll add to that too,
is there's a lot writing on these things, and not
everything can be just done by the homeowner. Okay unless
(18:15):
he really knows what he's doing, and he may, but
doing a load study, I can't visualize how much loads
on there, how deep that'd have to be. I don't
know about the sea level, the water. I don't know
a structural engineer to look at that thing. My squash
a few hundred bucks, but you're going to have a
(18:35):
little bit more. You're going to know that all this
work is you know, just not for not we're not guessing.
But at the same time, you say, I totally get
how he feels like, I just want to drill hole.
I want to get rolling on that. But you know,
once you drill that hole, you're into that project. And
(18:57):
I just you know, two inches that's not going to
be enough to probably stabilize that wall. I don't know
that because I don't know a lot of the things
of the project, nor do I think he did. So
really getting you know, the city out a structural engineer,
even after you have to pay for it. Get some
specific So exactly how are you going to tackle that project?
(19:18):
I think some imperative. We'll continue, James, you'll be up first.
We got Tony, Bob Mike. If you'd like to jump
on board, do so. You're at home with Gary Sullivan.
Speaker 3 (19:46):
Weekends, I mean a never writing list of things to
do around your home. Get help at one eight hundred
and eighty two three talk You're at home with Gary Sullivant.
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at it, we go at Home with Gary Sullivan taking
you through the weekend. By the way, if you miss
an hour, or you miss a couple hours of the
show or Sunday show, you can always pick it up
via podcast. Any list each hour on each day as
a separate podcast, and you can pick that up wherever
you get your podcast. If you go to the iHeart app,
(22:53):
just to hit the magnifying glass and type in at
Home with Gary Sullivan and you will find your way
there and catch up. All right, let's get back to
those phone calls we got James. James, Welcome.
Speaker 4 (23:08):
Gary.
Speaker 7 (23:09):
This is going to be my third call regarding this project.
I apologize, but I might be like coming off as
I'm venting a little bit frustrated. It has to do
with refinishing a fiberglass door. I originally I bought the
door and I paid for a pre finish on it
(23:32):
from a really reputable company called Thermatrue Door. And as
it turns out, the finished coat did not include the
UV or like a you're a thane finish on it. It
only had a stain. So I started noticing like the
failure of the blotching. So anyways, upon investigation, and that's
(23:53):
what I determined, So I ordered some stain from Thermidor.
They're recommended stain just to address the the blotching with
some of the areas on there. And they do sell
a kit where you can use their top coat. But
I've always had good success with Man of War, uh
the Man of War over the years. So I looked
(24:15):
at their FAQ website on their on their on their website,
and it said that to use only water base eure
a thane. And so I called from a door and
talked to their tech rep and they and I said,
I would like to use oil base your athane, and
they said, well, our position is We've never tested the
(24:37):
interaction between our stain and oil base. We only have
an interaction between the water base. So I obviously I'm
going to go with the water base. So I I
went to Lows and they don't carry water base eure athane.
So then I ended up at Sherwood Williams and they
did have what I wanted in water base, and it
(25:00):
can looks identical. The only thing difference is it says
on the front it says water based, and the lid
is plastic as opposed to metal. But I'm still I
just don't have a lot of confidence in a water
based urethane. And I know you're you you believe water
based products have come a long way, but mainly you
talk about paint, you don't talk about euthane. So I
(25:22):
guess that's my question here is I am so frustrated
with fiberglass doors. I probably would never get one again.
I'd just go with a metal but or pain. You
think that, yeah, no, I want to correct yeah, yeah,
I don't want to paint it. I like to stame. Look,
so what what is your opinion of water based U thing?
(25:44):
Not so much the manufacturer, but the line of.
Speaker 1 (25:47):
Prod well, I'll tell you. In your thane on entry doors,
be it fiberglass or be it on wood, A solvent
based poly your thinge is a total no no for
everybody listening out there. I say that there are basically
(26:07):
three types your Your biggest foe here is not necessarily moisture.
It's actually the ultraviolet rays of the sun. So if
you've got a south or a west positioning, and maybe
you don't have much of a overhang of the door,
that's what begins to that's the starting point of protection
(26:31):
for not only the stain but also the door. So
there's three types. There is a marine eurethane, not polyrthane,
a marine eurethane which has very good ultraviolet block. There
is a second in that fold would be a spar euthane,
(26:52):
which is probably what your lows has in your home depots,
has a good UV block. And the third thing would
be an exterior acrylic euthane. Now, having said that, there's
very few manufacturers, at least that I'm familiar with, I
(27:12):
find it difficult to find. I know Tzar has an
exterior water based yourthane, and I guess Sherman Williams. According
to I didn't know they had one, but that's nice
to know. A euthane has the best UV blocking film
(27:36):
against the sun against the ultraviolet rays, so it has
it stands up to ultraviolet rays better than any of
the above, and it also stays crystal clear, where the
others when they fade, they amber and get pinholes in them.
At a water bay, your thane will get the pinholes,
(28:02):
but it will not amber. In other words, that door
will not darken. And really the secret is is when
you put that I don't care which one you use.
When you put that on about every two years, it's
a really good idea to just kind of wipe it down,
get a three odd steel wool on the solvent based
(28:25):
and just a like maybe six hundred grit wet dry
paper for the water base your thane, scuff it up
and put another coat on it. The nice thing about
the water bases you could put two or three coats
on the same day the solvent base. That's going to
take you, you know, twenty four hour dry time between
each coat. But they're all good protectants, but I think
(28:49):
the water base does offer you the best.
Speaker 4 (28:53):
Okay, I will do that.
Speaker 7 (28:58):
I did notice, so it's wet facing and there is overhang.
But you know how fiberglass, the fibers get come out
a little bit when it's I don't know, it's rough.
If you will, you can't see fibers. But on their
FAQ dermodor is FAQ, it says do not sand.
Speaker 1 (29:17):
Yeah, I don't know, to make it worse.
Speaker 7 (29:18):
Sure, Yeah, So I don't know. It's just that's the
way it's going to be. I mean, they're not sticking
out like hairs or anything like that. It's just rough
when you go against the grain, if that makes sense.
Speaker 1 (29:30):
Yeah. Well, I think the door that I have actually
is that same brand. It's twenty six years old. And
I got my original two coatings, the protected and the
stain from the manufacturer, and I found that their products
and it was with their labels, so I don't know
(29:51):
what it was, but they outperformed most anything else I'd
ever tried. And I got a really, really dead facing.
I mean, I got definitely a challenging spot, and I
didn't go back and recoat every year or two, and
it would blotch out after about four or five years,
(30:16):
and most of the time by just you know, roughing
that surface up and I'm not when I say six
hundred grit wet dry sandpaper, that's really really fine, And
I wouldn't really consider that sand paper. I don't know
what I consider it. But it just you couldn't even
tell hardly you were using it, but just the braids
(30:38):
that finished just enough to reapply. But as far as
the fiber sticking out, I've never really experienced that, to
be honest with you.
Speaker 7 (30:47):
Yeah, it's maybe I'm exaggerating it a little bit.
Speaker 8 (30:50):
It's just rough.
Speaker 7 (30:51):
I'm comparing it to the interior where it's it's nothing noticeable.
It's just to the finger touched. So I'll just go
with this. So just one last question. Since you threw
in the tunnel and painted yours, do you have a
one and done thing you never have to worry about
it again, or do you have to recoat that with paint?
Speaker 1 (31:07):
Well, nothing's ever one and done, but I can tell
you I painted that. I'm gonna say it was a
good I probably. I bet you it's been twelve or
fifteen years and you know it was a good. Uh,
it was a good exterior paint. The Emerald from Sherman Williams.
(31:30):
I think if I was to repaint it. I'd probably
look at the the euro thane trimming enamel. It's an
indoor outdoor very fade resistant both because there are acrylics
or water water bases, and it still doesn't really need painting.
But I would never say one and done, you know,
(31:52):
even if you change the color over time. But uh yeah,
it holds up well. And not trying to talk in
any thing, I was kind of just done with the
staining and the maintenance of it.
Speaker 7 (32:05):
Well, that's good information about Thermidor, because I do see
they have the kid on there where they where they
saw you the stain and the top note. But I
elected not to do that, but I could always do it.
Speaker 1 (32:17):
Yeah, a number of years ago, and it's been a
number of years ago, I remember, and I can't remember
what I used, but I used it. I just didn't
like the It didn't last long. Okay, it didn't last
long like the first coat did. When it was finished
by them and I called up there and talk and
they go, what did you use it? At that point
(32:37):
I told them what I used it. Again, I can't
remember what I used. It might have been a gel
minwax stain and probably a spar your thing would be
my guest, and they go like, listen the products we made,
they're made for our doors. Though, I'll perform anything you're
gonna buy, and I have to admit it did.
Speaker 7 (32:57):
So, yeah, it says that what you just said it
on their three page of AQ it goes say that.
So it's either you know, they can explain it to people,
but they can't understand it for people.
Speaker 1 (33:11):
So well, I hope you get it solved.
Speaker 7 (33:16):
Okay, thank you, Gary.
Speaker 1 (33:17):
All right, take care, we'll take a break. We'll come back. Mike,
you'll be up first. We got Bob, Tony, James Lynn
and you can join us. You're at Home with Gary Sullivan.
Speaker 3 (33:26):
Help for your home is just a click away at
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Speaker 1 (33:50):
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(36:14):
back at it we go. Twelve minutes before the top
of they are talking home improvement. Mike, you're up, Welcome.
Speaker 8 (36:21):
Good morning, Gary.
Speaker 1 (36:22):
Are you doing fun, sir?
Speaker 8 (36:23):
Thank you great? Well hearing you all your tips.
Speaker 1 (36:27):
Thank you. Hey.
Speaker 8 (36:28):
I am a second owner of the house built in
ninety nineteen ninety five, and I was getting water in
the basement, so about two years ago, I had the
whole outside trench all new PDC fights put in instead
of it corrugated. That was all flogged and they backfilled
(36:48):
with gravel. And we're just running it out out back
into the woods now, so it's not going into the
sunk bottle. Okay, but I'm still noticing some water and
they actually caps the outside. But I noticed a little
bit of leakage of water right at the floor, you
know where the wall on the floor meet. Okay, over
(37:11):
near the thump. I'm wondering should I put some holes
in that thump.
Speaker 1 (37:17):
Well, usually there's some slits in the side walls of
those Okay, so maybe what you want to do is
drain that water. I'll get a flash slight in there
and see if you see any openings, okay, because you know,
I mean when that's a natural seam there, you know
where that floor in that wall is, so as the
(37:41):
water table, you know, rises in that area, it's going
to weep between that natural seam between the wall and
the floor. Another thing to take a look at, too,
is take a look at the quote killer G's that
I talk about all the time on the outside because
a lot of times water's just ponding there and it's path.
(38:03):
The least resistance is that natural seam, and you know,
the killer g's are the grating might be a little
off in that area that you can change relatively easily.
Maybe a little dip that's you know, that's the just
the pawning water area the ground and then the guys
(38:26):
if they're overflowing. It happens a lot in the corner
where maybe there's a little little leaf debris and where
the downspout is. Some of the water's going down, some
of it's overflowing. It's putting it right on that corner.
It's going to raise that water table and it's going
to see between the floor and the wall. I checked
those three things, grading, ground, water, and gutters.
Speaker 8 (38:51):
Okay, so even so they back with gravel. So and
but there is about maybe six or eight inches of
on top of that. They goes straight away. But I
would have thought that, you know, the water would have
just gone through all that gravel, hit that pipe and
gone out.
Speaker 1 (39:13):
Maybe. Yeah, I mean that's what's supposed to do, you know.
I mean, that's what's supposed to do. But there's something
causing it, and it's not on the inside. It's it's
it's on the outside.
Speaker 8 (39:24):
Yeah, right, And they did use the you know, the
PDC had the three holes. That's great, holes are down right,
and they're they're down, But they just laid it straight
on the clay. They didn't put any gravel underneath it.
Speaker 1 (39:40):
Yeah. I would say normally you would put your gravel,
you know, on the sides underneath, you put a membrane
over the top if the holes are up, you know,
just so you don't get so well, we'll assume it's
laid properly, you know, but I would get up there
and check the scutters on the side and just just
(40:02):
just look at the grating. You can pretty much tell it.
It doesn't have to be you know, very inspected. But
there's some ponding going on there. That's why it's getting
in there for sure. Yeah.
Speaker 8 (40:14):
So but should I if I don't see the holes
in my some well, should I drill a couple?
Speaker 4 (40:22):
Yeah?
Speaker 1 (40:23):
So, I mean the old thing is path least resistance, right,
So if we got something where that water is going
to flow in there and then pump away and it's
gonna be pumped out beyond the foundation, I would say
that would help you.
Speaker 8 (40:36):
Okay, all right, I appreciate the information.
Speaker 1 (40:41):
Very good.
Speaker 8 (40:42):
Thank you, thank you.
Speaker 1 (40:44):
My mind, and let's go to Tony. Tony welcome, good
morning Gary here. Are you doing fine? Thank you?
Speaker 9 (40:54):
I have ah, I said, a question and a problem.
I have a washing machine as a mildew mode, older
and trying to fight, and recently I took it apart,
took the agitator out and cleaned the drum and found
some good up inside the agitator, cleaned that out and whatnot,
and then I ran the cycle of vinegar and water,
(41:16):
hot cycle of that, followed by a rent with a
baking soda, and it smelled much much much better. And
then when it dry, I still smelled the hand of meldew.
So I did a second go around with bleach and
water hot water and bleach and the same thing, followed
by the baker soda, and I'm still getting that smell.
Speaker 5 (41:37):
Not again.
Speaker 7 (41:38):
It's not as bad, but it's there.
Speaker 1 (41:40):
Yeah, those things will help, there's no question about. So
I'm assuming you also wiped down all the seals to
the washing machine.
Speaker 5 (41:49):
With top loader. Okay, So yeah, I wiped it down
pretty good before I started. And the only thing that's
that's in there that I didn't check there is I
guess there had a link filt to the little four
small dish. I didn't take those out and clean them.
Speaker 1 (42:05):
Okay, we might do that too, but I think really
what you need is and they do sponsor the show.
And I found them when I had your exact problem
and my washing machine stunk, I mean it's stunk, and
wipe down all the seals. I did almost everything you
(42:26):
did except for the vinegar and I'm picking, so I
didn't do that. And I found this product called Awesome
and it's a yeah, okay, good, I'm glad you heard
me talk about because it's a H H. S O
M E dot com. And I was amazed. So this
(42:47):
little jar is probably no more than three ounces and
it's a jem and I think it was like one teaspoon.
I mean, and I put it my mind. Is not
a topplower or is it a toploader? Yeah, it's a toplader.
It's sure on a washing machine, it's a dryer that's
got the fun. So you put this in the top
(43:07):
of the agitator. Some of them don't even have agitators now.
And it was amazing the gunk that I got out.
It was black gunk everywhere, and then I ran just
a clear load clear water and that odor went away,
and you know, I started reading on that. Eventually got
(43:27):
ahold of people that owned the company, and it's called
biofilm that's in there. It's a closed plumbing system that
you can't really get to it any other way to
chemically kill it. And they say it's like jello. It's
got a hard skin on it, and it's black and
it's gooey, and it's disgusting what you find that comes up.
(43:50):
So you know, if you've tried the others, I would
certainly give that awesome a try. I can personal experience
that worked well for me, and I know I've gotten
good reports from other people also. But if you wipe
down the seals and you've tried the other stuff again,
it's probably a biofilm that's back in that closed piping
(44:14):
system and it's a eight h som All right, Well,
let's take a break and then we'll come back on
the other side of the hour and we'll do it again.
We've got Bob James Brian if you'd like to join us.
It's eight hundred eight two three eight two five five
will continue at Home with Gary Sullivan.
Speaker 3 (44:53):
If you don't have a list of things to do
around the house, Gary will find something for you. At
one eight hundred eighty two three Talk You're at Home
with Gary Sullivan.
Speaker 1 (45:04):
M