Episode Transcript
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Speaker 1 (00:33):
Well, it's a weekend. Welcome.
Speaker 2 (00:35):
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let me give you the phone number. Let's get rolling again.
There's plenty to do this time of year, that's for sure.
It's eight hundred eight two three A two five five
And earlier today we had a call. It was about
(01:22):
a crown wash on a chimney. And I know many
of you probably still using your fireplace. Many of you
have you know X that off. We're not going to
use the fireplace anymore. The heating seasons finished depending on
where you live. But if your heating season is finished
and you want to really have that chimney inspected, now
(01:44):
is the time to do it. You know, we're kind
of in between seasons in many parts of the country,
and there's things that really need to be inspected in
the chimney, and of course you know the firebox, and
we're always talking about kris out and cleaning the chimney,
and that's all important, don't get me wrong, that's important.
(02:07):
But there are those self cleaning logs for chimneys and
they really do keep that chimney fairly clean. But it
really depends on you. How do you use that fireplace.
What kind of wood do you use in that fireplace?
Is that wood good in season that you burn in
(02:30):
that fireplace? Is it not a softwood that burns real
fast in that fireplace?
Speaker 2 (02:36):
Because the cleaning.
Speaker 1 (02:39):
Is important regardless of how you get it done, but
the inspection is the ultimate and importance. If it's not
inspected periodically, I'm talking every couple of years, there's things
that quite honestly, could be horribly wrong inside that chimney.
And one of the things would be all liner that's
(03:01):
really protecting your home not only from water but from fire.
You know, if you're burning, you know, and you got
creosa and you had a chimney fire, let's say that's
called cracked a liner, and probably not going to burn
down your house, but if you have another chimney fire,
there's a good chance it could. So by having that
(03:24):
inspected every couple of years, I'd say, is a really
really good idea. And make sure you're burning the right
kind of seasoned wood, et cetera, et cetera. And that's
just one of the things that gets inspected. But getting
a chimney sweep out of there to inspect the chimney.
(03:44):
The fellow that called, he was talking about the crown wash,
and the crown wash is way at the top of
the chimney, and let's face it, that's not a high
priority for you. I'm sure you're not up there inspecting it,
and I'm sure you don't want to spend somebody to
come out and inspect it so it doesn't get inspected.
And what it is, it's like a it ties the
(04:06):
flu together to the whole chimney, and it's a concrete pad.
And look at your concrete pads and the sidewalk, the stoop,
the patio. They get cracks in them, they spawl, they
break down over time, and water gets down in between
there and it gets absorbed by the brick and there's
(04:28):
a freezing thaw cycle and then mortar falls out, bricks crack. Yeah,
you're getting the picture. It begins to degrade without maintenance.
It's always about maintenance. It's always about inspections. And that's
one area that probably needs your attention because it's really
(04:51):
out of sight and out of mind. Always say the
chimney in the attic. Those are two areas we really
don't pay a lot of attention too. Well, we pay
attention to them when there's a problem, like smoke starts
rolling in the house, then then we pay attention. But golly,
there needs to be an inspection on that it's been.
(05:12):
If it's been a while, I really encourage you to
do that that or if you want to inspect it
yourself a little bit, stand on the ground, get a
pair of binoculars. Go over each course of bricks. Look
for bricks that are cracking, or bricks that are spawling
and laying on the roof. For mortar that's missing. You
can see that with the binoculars. You may not see
(05:34):
the top of the crown wash, but maybe you can
see it disintegrating on the side of the crown wash.
And then of course, the the flashing those are areas
that need to be looked at, and now's the time
to do that. All right, let's get to the phones.
We've got Pete, Pete, welcome, Hey.
Speaker 3 (05:53):
Thank you for taking my call. You met, I have
an issue with I had a pipe in my attic
break from freezing and it flooded part of my downstairs.
The downstairs has vinyl plank on it, on top of tile,
on top of the concrete slab, and one of the
(06:15):
remediation companies came in and said, oh, you're you're gonna
have to pull up all that vinyl flooring because there's
water and it's going to stay there forever and get
sinky and all that kind of stuff. What do you
think about that statement? And is that really something that
happened to Because the water came through the ceiling and
disappeared very quickly, so it went under the vinyl plank. Obviously,
(06:38):
I'm just wondering whether it would go through the go
through the concrete and the tile and go away without
having to pull the vinyl floor in. The vinyl flooring
is almost brand new.
Speaker 1 (06:48):
Yeah, how long has it been.
Speaker 3 (06:53):
Well, the flood happened about six weeks ago and the
water disappeared. The water disappeared almost within an half an
hour of its flooding.
Speaker 1 (07:01):
Yeah, where to go?
Speaker 3 (07:04):
Well, the vinyl flooring obviously.
Speaker 1 (07:08):
Okay, so we got a wet concrete floor that's covered
and sealed with vinyl.
Speaker 3 (07:17):
Well, yeah, it's vinyl plank.
Speaker 1 (07:19):
Yeah, but it's final. So I'm not trying to be
a smart guy. But you know, if that water is
going to lay there and is still laying there, it
will get stagnant, Mold will probably grow on the concrete
and maybe grow through the floor. Now I don't know
where that water went. Did it get absorbed in and
(07:42):
go out the side? I don't know. So the only
way I would know is you either take that up
as a precaution or you get a moisture meter where
you can find out what kind of content of moisture
we have underneath that vinyl.
Speaker 3 (07:57):
So yeah, let's maybe do that at the someplace where
you don't actually have to poke a hole in the vinyl.
Speaker 1 (08:03):
Hunt, right, I mean, because you know, also on those
concrete floors there's drains down there. So did it work
its way to the drain? I don't know. So who
told you they had to pull it up?
Speaker 2 (08:14):
Is that somebody, a remediation company that's cleaning it up.
Speaker 3 (08:19):
Right, that would that would because the baseboards all got
soggy and and you know that kind of thing.
Speaker 4 (08:25):
Uh.
Speaker 3 (08:25):
And so they came in and had a moisture meter
and there measured the water content and it was fifty
percent in the in the baseboards or in the area
that was wet.
Speaker 1 (08:36):
And so well that's about much.
Speaker 3 (08:41):
Yeah, service yeah, oh yeah, got yeah. It's service Master
type company with it.
Speaker 1 (08:47):
Yeah. Well, they're the experts. I haven't been there, but
I would you know, if you had fifty percent moisture
in there and you still do that, that's that's a big, big,
big problem, you know that I still do. It's been well,
I don't know either. Yeah, and maybe did. Maybe they
don't know either.
Speaker 3 (09:08):
Yeah, yeah, yeah. Well I'm having ninety miles the Rocky
Road from my insurance company. And that's why I'm thinking
about ignoring, because you know, I'm talking about a thirty
thirty forty thousand dollars job to tear the flooring up
and buy a new flooring and put it down, et cetera.
And I that's not something I want to go to
the boat for.
Speaker 1 (09:28):
So well, most starts growing, you will wish you had,
But what what's the insurance? What's the insurances? Squabble with
you on this?
Speaker 3 (09:36):
Well, they want was this caused by manufacturing? Defect in
the pipe? You know, They're they're coming up with excuses,
all kinds of things like that, And was it something
that I could have prevented? Well, of course in the attic,
you know, And so they're just all these kinds of
things and trying to get pictures of what happened something
in the attic is not easy.
Speaker 1 (09:57):
And so yeah, yeah, well yeah again, I can give
you an argument without seeing it, without testing it. I
can give you an argument on both sides. Okay, I
mean I really can. You know, I can say, okay,
look at it's vinyl. It got underneath the floor. The
concrete absorbed it. There's a vapor barrier underneath that concrete. Eventually,
(10:20):
I guess it'll dry out. You might get a little
mold in there, but as long as we continue not
to have moisture in there, it's probably not going to
continue to grow. I think you'll be all right. You
might have a dampness of smelly basement for a while,
but you know, open up a windows and get fans
in there and suck some of that air out of
(10:42):
that base. You'll be fine. Or I could say, hey, listen,
you've had the experts out there. You had fifty percent
of water. You know, a number of weeks ago. There's
water in that pad. It's never going to dry out.
There's a vapor barrier underneath it. The vinyl plank flooring
is a vapor barrier on top of it. There's nowhere
(11:04):
for that water to go. It's gonna stay wet. It
isn't gonna go away. And as long as there's organic
material and moisture, that mold is gonna grow. So I
can make the argument both ways. The only way you're
gonna know is you're gonna tear it up.
Speaker 4 (11:20):
Yeah.
Speaker 3 (11:21):
Yeah, I'm afraid you're gonna say that.
Speaker 4 (11:22):
Yeah.
Speaker 3 (11:23):
Well, thank you for your expertise. All right, the advice.
Speaker 1 (11:27):
Have a good day, you bet. You take care? All right, Well,
continue your calls. It's eight hundred eight two three eight
two five five. You're at home with Gary Sullivan.
Speaker 5 (11:37):
Time to get your hands dirty with Gary Sullivan. Give
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You're at home with Gary cellivantor.
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Speaker 1 (14:28):
All right back in it we go twenty two minutes
after the top of the are at home with Gary
Selvan doing a little maintenance from your pair of our
homes today, as we do each and every weekend. Tony, welcome.
Speaker 6 (14:40):
Hey, hey, Garry, how are you doing today?
Speaker 1 (14:42):
Doing fine? Thanks?
Speaker 6 (14:44):
Well, that's great.
Speaker 1 (14:44):
Hey.
Speaker 6 (14:45):
I have a little problem that's been on going for years.
We've been in our house for like forty two years.
We have a detached garage, two car garage. It's drywall
finished and the ceiling. I had to rescrape the paint
off the top because it was splaking and peeling off,
and I went to the process of cleating it, standing
(15:06):
it and putting like a Kills paint on it. And
then I'm sure what ways we put an exterior white
paint with the oil base. And now the same situation
is happening again, and I don't know what we can do.
It's been ongoing and it's been like probably fifteen years
(15:27):
since I did it the first time, right, and now
it's coming back exactly the same.
Speaker 2 (15:33):
Man.
Speaker 3 (15:33):
What's your advice?
Speaker 1 (15:35):
Well, the first thing is, remember oil based paint is
not breathable. Okay, when we were kids, Tony, remember the
exterior house paints paint failed, not because they got ugly.
It just started peeling off the house. So you'd get
a little water behind the paint. Once you had a
little crack in the paint, a little water get behind it,
(15:56):
or yet water on the wall that was coming because
there wasn't a vapor barrier or insulation on the back
side of the shower. So the paint just peeled off.
And I don't know exactly what's going on there, but
when you talk about the kills, you can usually get
by with an oil based primary. You got the kills,
(16:16):
but then you're putting oil base on that. My guess is,
you know, garages can be pretty humid, and so Cain
addics and my guess is that's what's going on that
it's trying that moisture is trying to move through that
paint film, and it's causing the pain film to fail.
Speaker 6 (16:40):
So are you thinking maybe we should go to a
latex paint.
Speaker 1 (16:44):
Absolutely, that would probably be the case.
Speaker 6 (16:48):
Originally I thought it. What had happened is we used
to barbecue in the wonder time, and I'd have the
barbecue grill like paining halfway out the garage. I'm thinking
somebody that had all got into ceiling because it was
all on the ceiling right, not in the sidewalks. So
we said, we're not doing it anymore. So now we're
doing this. So you're definitely saying maybe we should go
(17:09):
to a late paint.
Speaker 1 (17:10):
Well, yeah, So whenever you have peeling paint, you know,
I mean, let's just kind of break it down.
Speaker 2 (17:15):
Peeling paint is delaminating.
Speaker 1 (17:17):
From the subsurface. There's two things, or there's one thing
going on. Okay, it's not having enough adhesion to this,
to the surface, to the substrate, So why doesn't it
get adhesion to a substrate. There's two things, moisture and
improper preparation. So your original theory with the smoke could
(17:41):
have been correct too. If all that smoke and grease
wasn't totally removed, you know, then I would say it
wasn't properly you know, prepared, The prep work wasn't done.
But as soon as you said oil base, that takes
me a whole different direction. Since I didn't know about
the grill, I'm saying moisture somewhere. Is there a vapor barrier?
(18:05):
Is there not a vapor barrier over a garage in
an attic? You you really don't need a vapor barrier
because neither part of above that garage is is living quarters.
So it could be insulation up there with no vapor barrier,
and you got the dampness. It can't get up there
(18:26):
except through the sidewalls. I don't know if there's insulation
on the inside of the walls, but eventually there's you know,
humidity or water vapor in that attic that when it
gets hot down in that garage, that water is being
pulled down that way and the paint film can't breath,
so it's gonna laminate.
Speaker 6 (18:45):
And that kind of makes sense because it's a detached
garage and there's no insulation in the sidewalls, and I
know there's nothing upstairs. There's some woodplanks up there to wash.
Speaker 1 (18:55):
It's just not breathing.
Speaker 3 (18:57):
Itlf excuse me.
Speaker 6 (18:58):
The cel of itself, it's like not a complete flat
surface at the beginning. It was like a slight textured
you know, back in the day, because our house will
build with sixty six so you get an idea the
construction of those crimes, and it wasn't a complete with surface,
so like you have a little bit of somebody trying
to face it up with the drywall stuff. But hey,
(19:20):
I appreciate your input there. Would definitely have to go
with a late text to where it can breathe.
Speaker 1 (19:25):
Yeah, yeah, And you're going to have to get that
oil base off on the surface, otherwise you're painting paint
that's going to appeal. So if you put a breathable
late text over a non breatheable oil, it's the same thing.
It'll laminate. So we got to get that oil paint
off or the problem continues.
Speaker 2 (19:45):
We'll continue with your calls. You're at home with Carrie Sullivan.
Speaker 5 (19:54):
Home Improvement one oh one with Gary Sullivan every weekend.
Classes began at one eight hundred eight two three tall.
You're at home with Gary Sullivan.
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(22:45):
back at it we go thirty three minutes after the
top of the hour. By the way, all about the
odors in your home. You can pick that up on
the iHeart podcast. It's at Home with Gary Sullivan. Now
we're gonna go back to the phones. And by the way,
if you want to grab a line, douce so it's
eight hundred eight two three eight two five five John.
Speaker 4 (23:05):
Welcome, Hi Gary.
Speaker 8 (23:08):
Uh, this is my first time calling. I've heard of
this problem. I've listened to you, you know, many years,
and I hear this coming up. So I wanted to
call it. It's not a problem. I wanted to give
you some information. It's on chimney caps, and you know
how they taper from the flute, the flute pipe down
(23:31):
to the brick.
Speaker 9 (23:32):
Well.
Speaker 8 (23:33):
I built my home in nineteen eighty and within ten
years by oh, so it's a brick home. And I've got.
Speaker 1 (23:49):
Ahead him, turn your radio down. You're going to get
all confused otherwise, so just turn the radio down, if
you would, and then we'll continue.
Speaker 8 (23:56):
Oh is this better?
Speaker 1 (24:02):
Yep, much better?
Speaker 8 (24:04):
Okay, I'm true. So anyway, within oh, I have one
of the nineteen eighty you know, a brickhouse, and my
chimney faces north. It's a fireplace chimney and it's one
(24:25):
of those you know where they kind of big and
they went straight up. Anyway, within ten years the chimney
was falling down. I mean, well bricks. You know. How
what happened was because of the way the chimney, you know,
the way they did the wash at the top, it'd
(24:47):
get snow melt, it would drip down, freeze snow melt,
and it just sort of hell out of a brick,
you know, right. So fortunately, when I had the house
built in nineteen eighty. I saved those little things to
come into brick, you know, the brick packs, and I
(25:09):
found where the brick was made and the type. I
got all the brick from Mac Industries in Valley City.
Well they were real good. They called the guy from
the brick place and he came out and looked at
my chimney. Oh, and I had to get it replaced.
(25:30):
But I thought they were really good. And the deal
was he would replace all the bricks free, and I
had to pay for the cement guy, you know.
Speaker 6 (25:39):
To put the bricks up.
Speaker 8 (25:40):
So I said, yeah, that's great. Now. The big thing
he did he gave me a drawing. The drawing was
for a chimney cap. And what the chimney cap is.
They form it on top of the chimney. I mean
it's like a port with forms to my forest round it.
(26:01):
It goes out around a chimney and you know, I'm
in a half to two.
Speaker 1 (26:05):
Inches right right. It had a revealed.
Speaker 8 (26:08):
Park park concrete in there, and inside the form they
put quarter round mold you know in the house. Here
m what you'd use for trim on the inside. And
then they pour that whole thing and what that does.
The water comes off, goes over the edge of the cap,
(26:32):
goes into that mold, and drips down about an inch
off the chimney.
Speaker 1 (26:40):
Yeah, I'll tell you another thing, John, You're you're exactly right.
So if you look over the ages the way the
crownwash was put on a chimney, and especially in more
you know nowadays with uh, you know, track builders and stuff,
a lot of them are just you know, it's sheet metal.
Speaker 2 (27:01):
It's for it's you know, for a inserted fire box.
Speaker 1 (27:06):
You know, it's not wood burning even But in the
old you know, with the older chimneys, the crown wash
would have like a two inch reveal over the brick
and you can you can see the you can see
both ways. One is at the edge of the brick,
the crown wash just ends and it's got a slight
(27:30):
tilt off to the side where the water comes off.
The crown wash rolls down the brick, which is probably
what you had. And then there's other ones that have
a pretty steep crown wash. It's not flat, it's kind
of like a pyramid. And then the flu comes out
of that and the water hits that and it comes
down much faster but still goes over the brick and
(27:53):
then like the proper way for a crown wash would
have a two inch reveal. And it's almost like, if
you can use this terminology, it's like an oversized slab
that sits on top of the chimney with the flu
that goes through it. And again it's bringing the water
off the chimney and not right down the brick. And
(28:14):
that's the key. If it's going down the brick all
the time, the lifespan of that of that brick is diminished.
So John, you've got to resolve now where its again.
It's pulling that water off the chimney and away from
the brick, and that's the key. You're exactly right. I
(28:35):
appreciate your input. Let's go to Dave. Dave, welcome, hy Gary.
Speaker 4 (28:41):
How you doing today?
Speaker 1 (28:42):
Doing fine? Thanks?
Speaker 9 (28:43):
Hey, I've got a roof that's about I think I'm
looking at eighteen years, nineteen years and it's a dimensional
shanle asphalt shingle. I believe it was either a twenty
or thirty year shingle when I put it on on.
I recently had that leaf filter gutter cap put on,
(29:06):
and boy, I've noticed well and it had nothing to
do with the leaf filter. But I've noticed I get
a lot of the sand pebbles sitting on top of
the gutters, and I'm wondering, is it time to replace
the Roof's what's a good sign for Sam when you need.
Speaker 1 (29:23):
To replace your roof, that's the number one sign. That's
the number one sign.
Speaker 2 (29:27):
So it's funny, I just just.
Speaker 1 (29:30):
Recorded a tip on roof failures. What's the things to
look for? Did it yesterday? And what I did is
explain that they that's saying that's over the shingle itself.
What that is is that is what protects that shingle
from the ultraviolet rays of the sun. Without that, that
(29:54):
shingle becomes very brittle, cracks, the edges curl up. That's
another thing to look for. Or pieces of shingle in
the gutter, that's another thing to look for. But as
they as those shingles get near the end of their lifespan,
that granular protection that sand I'll call it, dilaminates from
(30:15):
the shingles. So we start seeing excessive amounts of sand
in our gutters, on top of our gutter protectors whatever.
We just see a lot of this. So crack shingles,
curling shingles, missing shingles, sand in the gutter, little not punctures,
(30:36):
but little divots out of the shingle from like a
hailstorm at the end of that shingles life. All those
things say you need to start at least having a
roofer look at it and see if you need a
new roof, because you said it's eighteen years old, and
you don't know whether it was a twenty, twenty five
or thirty year shingle. I had a thirty year shingle
(30:58):
on my home. I replaced a twenty two years. So
if you have a twenty year shingle, you probably got
a twenty five year and it's probably getting near the
end of its life.
Speaker 9 (31:06):
Yeah. And plus I've got a ranch which has a
pretty shallow all right, yeah, which I know it cuts
down the life of shingles.
Speaker 1 (31:14):
Too, right right, So yeah, there's our our factors. But
i'd get somebody take a look at it and just
give yourself an inspection. I know what I did. I
called my roofer and said, hey, come give my home
and inspection to my roof. You know, I think I'm
getting close to knee in the roof. A lot of
them will do it no charge. They'll be there ten minutes,
(31:37):
fifteen minutes, and they'll go you know what, you probably
this is what I'm telling you what the guy told me. Okay,
so personal experience, he said, you know you probably you
probably get about another two years out of that if
you want to, but it's definitely gonna need replace in
the next couple of years. I replaced it the following year.
Speaker 9 (31:56):
Okay, well, I appreciate it that I was thinking I
was going down that path, but I it's nice to
get reinforcement.
Speaker 1 (32:03):
So good. Get a couple of quotes. Compare them because
it's amazing the differences. You'll see too, how they're going
to do that and what they're going to do. And
we'll chat about that when you get them.
Speaker 9 (32:14):
Hey, aside question, have they improved roofs that well that
much over the last.
Speaker 1 (32:18):
Twenty years, Well, yeah, they're you know, they got shingles
now that with wind ratings of one hundred and ten
miles an hour. It depends you know where you're at
the type of roof. They got ice guard that's cod
in a lot of parts of the country. It goes
under the first four feet. We got some people trying
to put in roofing using the same flashing. I'm not
(32:39):
so sure I do that. Uh, but you know you
have you get three quotes, You'll get three different opinions
of how that roof should be done. And then I'll
ask you questions like how long you want to be there,
how long you know, et cetera. So, yeah, don't you
know there's there's always variables.
Speaker 9 (32:56):
Yeah, Okay, thank you very much. Gary.
Speaker 1 (32:58):
All right, you bet. Thanks. We'll take a break and
come back Bill ed Dan, you guys will be next.
We'll continue at eight hundred eight two three eight two
five five year at Home with Gary Sullivan.
Speaker 5 (33:10):
Help for your home is just a click away at
Garysullivan online dot com. This is at Home with Gary Sullivan.
Speaker 1 (33:33):
Spring is here and sort of the Jaws Spring cleaning
caddy packs just in time to tackle your spring cleaning jobs.
Speaker 2 (33:39):
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Speaker 1 (33:40):
Cleaning solution features five high performance Jaws cleaners, including my
favorite streak free glass cleaner, plus refill pods, microfiber towels,
and Jaws dish spray, all neatly packed in a convenient caddy.
With Jaws just add.
Speaker 2 (33:54):
Water system, you'll clean smarter and faster this limited times
spring cleaning caddy pack well last order now at jawscleans
dot com. Enjoy free shipping on orders over thirty five dollars.
Speaker 1 (34:06):
Dirty exterior, well, don't scrub it, wet and forget it.
Wet and forget. The easy outdoor cleaner. Wet and forget
works over time with Mother Nature to eliminate unsightly black
and green stains on the exterior of your home with
no scrubbing, power washing or bleach. Use wet and forget
on all your outdoor surfaces, including decks, siding, roofs, and patios.
(34:27):
Wet and forgets available in a concentrator, extreme reach hose
en purchase wet and forget in a store or online
at Loews, Minards or ace Well. They say an ounce
of prevention is worth a pound of cure, and that's
true when it comes to preventing a basement flood. Hey,
Gary Salvin here from my friends at Rota, Ruter Plumbing
and Water clean Up. There're the some pump experts and
can install back up some pump that'll prevent basement flooding
(34:50):
even during a power outage. And if your primary pump
is getting up in the years well, Rotor Ruter can
replace that too, trust me a lot cheaper than a
flooded basement. Call roto Router at one eight hundred get
rut oh today.
Speaker 2 (35:03):
Every paint removal project comes with its own set of challenges,
and finding the right product for the job can be difficult.
Speaker 1 (35:09):
I have the solution. Demand has developed a complete paint
removal test kit that will help you zero in on
the best paint removal product that you need for your project.
Test kit includes a down samples of smart Strip, Advanced,
smart Strip Pro and peel Away paint removal products with
all the necessary items you need. You can get your
test kit at participating Sherman William's locations, or visit Dumontglobal
(35:30):
dot com to purchase a kid or find a retailer
near you. All right, beck at it.
Speaker 2 (36:06):
We go twelve minutes before the top of the hour,
working our way.
Speaker 1 (36:09):
Through another weekend. Happy to take your calls. We'll have
another hour to go if we finish up this hour
so you can join us. It'll be eight hundred eighty
two three eight two five five, and let's go to Bill. Bill.
Speaker 4 (36:22):
Welcome, Gary Sullivan. You've got the right name for this
week and I'll tell you my friend the happy Saint Patty's.
Speaker 1 (36:29):
Day half sure to be goingy, I tell you clothes
at two thirty, I listen, you were talking.
Speaker 4 (36:37):
You were talking about flashing early. I live in a
brick home, two story, nineteen sixty four, and I'm talking
to my wife. She doesn't think it's a good idea.
I'm talking to my neighbors about flashing. So what I've
been doing the last week, the weather's sat on the break,
I go out and get the daily paper, just not
(37:00):
want the tennis shoes. And I went on a neighborhood naked.
So they say, Bill, flashing is a bad idea. I
don't know if I need we again or or to exit.
I'll take your in so off the air when I
enjoy your program.
Speaker 1 (37:15):
Yeah, the flashing serves a very important Yeah, flashing can
be bad, but flashing on a roof is very good.
So where the roof is usually meeting the side of
the house, there's a you know, obviously a seam, and
you know what you're doing is you're creating a little
saddle or a little drain so that the water as
(37:38):
it's rushing down the roof doesn't get underneath or in
that seam to rot the wood on the side of
the house, or to rot the wood underneath the underneath
the shingles. So one of the things about flashing, quite honestly,
is when you're replacing a roof, and especially roof where
(37:58):
you start having warranties in the you know, thirty year range,
thirty forty years, twenty five years even um get the
flashing replaced. When the roof is being you know, torn off,
you tear it off. The second second coating of roofing
(38:20):
shingles is never a good idea if you read the warranty,
avoids the warranty right away. So you know, when you
have a a shingled roof, you tear it off, you
replace the flashing. You know they're going to take a
look at the wood beneath it, and that's going to
be a separate little quote. If we find it'll be
(38:40):
so much, so much, and it'll explain that. But the flashing,
you know a lot of times it's galvanized metal. They're
doing things now where they call it a California weave,
where they weave the shingles to cover up that natural
(39:01):
But I still, I mean, I don't need copper flashing,
But a galvani is a good painting. Galvanized flashing is
a really good idea in my opinion, if you can
still leave it there, have a new roof installed and
get up there and you know, get rid of the
rust and maybe patch the holes and paint the flashing.
(39:22):
But I think that you know, when you're getting into
these longer range roofing, I think you go ahead and
pay a little attention to the flashing and maybe go
ahead and change that out. All right, let's go to
add ed Welcome, Thank.
Speaker 10 (39:38):
You, gery, good morning. My son and I are getting
ready to start a pretty significant remodel on a house
in Colorado at about seven thousand feet and one of
the things that we're going to add is a pretty
large deck, and we've been working at wood versus tracks,
(40:00):
us maybe some other materials for the deck. Considering the
process and minuses of wood and other materials, do you
have a preferred material that you would recommend for building
(40:21):
an outdoor deck in that climate?
Speaker 1 (40:24):
Yeah, I mean there are literally so many different ways
to go with this now ed Quite honestly, I mean
it really is. It's you know, you can certainly continue
with the pressure treated wood, you can go all the
way up to some of the newer cap composites where incredible,
you know. So I think the first thing you really
(40:46):
need to think about is a budget. You know, exactly
what are you planning on looking at in terms of
a deck, because there's a significant swing in prices. And
then you've got to look at lifestyle. How's that deck
going to be used, who's going to be using it.
(41:08):
A lot of times people focus on, you know, the
heat in the area, the positioning of the deck, but
quite honestly, wood gets hot. Cap can posits, they get
hot and I'll say warm and and you know, so
that's not really going to come into play too much.
(41:30):
But I really think it's you know, the lifestyle, the budget,
what do you want to look like. I just did
an interview with somebody this past week, and you know,
he outdoor living is such a big thing and how
you're going to use it and what he was going
to use it for and everything. You know, I mean
he was talking to you know, one hundred thousand plus
(41:51):
deck and and and that's fine. I'm sure it'll be
absolutely gorgeous. So I guess that's an answer. Maybe you
can fill in some spots then what you're thinking of,
and then I can make it.
Speaker 10 (42:05):
Well, I know, wood would probably be the most economical.
I've built a deck before in New Hampshire. Uh and
uh uh and uh I've lived there for a few
years after it was built and it was perfectly fine. Uh.
(42:26):
But yeah, I know there's a lot of in the
pressure treated wood. There's a lot of chemicals in there.
And and like I was just, uh, we would be
able to we would be willing to put a little
extra money in the deck to make sure we had something.
And this is this is gonna be used largely for
(42:48):
outdoor uh kind of outdoor living when the weather permits,
and and having cookouts and things like that. And uh,
there's just so many options.
Speaker 2 (43:00):
Yeah, sure is.
Speaker 1 (43:00):
So we're down to about a minute. So let me
give you my input on that, because we're down to
about a minute. Number one, if you're going to go
pressure treated wood, pressure to reated would of today is
not the pressure tread of yesteryear. Uh and not from
a good standpoint, that's my opinion. Okay, it's not nearly
as pressure treated as it once was. If you're going
(43:22):
to use pressure treated wood, I would highly recommend using
a kiln dride pressure treated wood. It'll be much more stable,
be more expensive, and long run, there's going to be
less maintenance. Uh so you can certainly still use it.
I would prefer a kiln dride pressure treated wood. As
far as cap composits, that's just how far you want
(43:44):
to go from cosmetics. There's one called millboard, there's one
called decorators. Those are like the premium of the premium
and capped composites, and sometimes one of them, the millboard
is actually a lot stone center and the decorators is
a PVC or a polyethylene I believe, And so they
(44:08):
both carry twenty five year warranties. There's awesome. Now those
are two pricey, both of those companies. And then when
you get into the trecks in a timber tech, they
have diminishing prices because they have cap products with the
PVC cap product and maybe the tongue and groove isn't capped,
(44:29):
and they kind of take the wood out of play.
And they're very good. They still have a twenty five
year warranty, but they don't have the beauty of maybe
the millboard or the decorators, which seriously looks like Brazilian
hardwood outside. So those are some things to kind of
think about. I hope that helps. We're up against the clock.
Speaker 2 (44:53):
So we'll take a break. At home with Gary Sullivan's.
Speaker 5 (45:17):
Help for your home is just a click away at
Garysullivan online dot com. This is at Home with Gary Sullivan.
Well, it's a weekend. Welcome.
Speaker 2 (00:35):
This hours brought to you by DICEH Coatings.
Speaker 1 (00:37):
We've talked about them a lot today. They have the
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(01:01):
It's Dish Daichcoatings dot com and we thank them for
their sponsorship of this hour of our show. All right,
let me give you the phone number. Let's get rolling again.
There's plenty to do this time of year, that's for sure.
It's eight hundred eight two three A two five five
And earlier today we had a call. It was about
(01:22):
a crown wash on a chimney. And I know many
of you probably still using your fireplace. Many of you
have you know X that off. We're not going to
use the fireplace anymore. The heating seasons finished depending on
where you live. But if your heating season is finished
and you want to really have that chimney inspected, now
(01:44):
is the time to do it. You know, we're kind
of in between seasons in many parts of the country,
and there's things that really need to be inspected in
the chimney, and of course you know the firebox, and
we're always talking about kris out and cleaning the chimney,
and that's all important, don't get me wrong, that's important.
(02:07):
But there are those self cleaning logs for chimneys and
they really do keep that chimney fairly clean. But it
really depends on you. How do you use that fireplace.
What kind of wood do you use in that fireplace?
Is that wood good in season that you burn in
(02:30):
that fireplace? Is it not a softwood that burns real
fast in that fireplace?
Speaker 2 (02:36):
Because the cleaning.
Speaker 1 (02:39):
Is important regardless of how you get it done, but
the inspection is the ultimate and importance. If it's not
inspected periodically, I'm talking every couple of years, there's things
that quite honestly, could be horribly wrong inside that chimney.
And one of the things would be all liner that's
(03:01):
really protecting your home not only from water but from fire.
You know, if you're burning, you know, and you got
creosa and you had a chimney fire, let's say that's
called cracked a liner, and probably not going to burn
down your house, but if you have another chimney fire,
there's a good chance it could. So by having that
(03:24):
inspected every couple of years, I'd say, is a really
really good idea. And make sure you're burning the right
kind of seasoned wood, et cetera, et cetera. And that's
just one of the things that gets inspected. But getting
a chimney sweep out of there to inspect the chimney.
(03:44):
The fellow that called, he was talking about the crown wash,
and the crown wash is way at the top of
the chimney, and let's face it, that's not a high
priority for you. I'm sure you're not up there inspecting it,
and I'm sure you don't want to spend somebody to
come out and inspect it so it doesn't get inspected.
And what it is, it's like a it ties the
(04:06):
flu together to the whole chimney, and it's a concrete pad.
And look at your concrete pads and the sidewalk, the stoop,
the patio. They get cracks in them, they spawl, they
break down over time, and water gets down in between
there and it gets absorbed by the brick and there's
(04:28):
a freezing thaw cycle and then mortar falls out, bricks crack. Yeah,
you're getting the picture. It begins to degrade without maintenance.
It's always about maintenance. It's always about inspections. And that's
one area that probably needs your attention because it's really
(04:51):
out of sight and out of mind. Always say the
chimney in the attic. Those are two areas we really
don't pay a lot of attention too. Well, we pay
attention to them when there's a problem, like smoke starts
rolling in the house, then then we pay attention. But golly,
there needs to be an inspection on that it's been.
(05:12):
If it's been a while, I really encourage you to
do that that or if you want to inspect it
yourself a little bit, stand on the ground, get a
pair of binoculars. Go over each course of bricks. Look
for bricks that are cracking, or bricks that are spawling
and laying on the roof. For mortar that's missing. You
can see that with the binoculars. You may not see
(05:34):
the top of the crown wash, but maybe you can
see it disintegrating on the side of the crown wash.
And then of course, the the flashing those are areas
that need to be looked at, and now's the time
to do that. All right, let's get to the phones.
We've got Pete, Pete, welcome, Hey.
Speaker 3 (05:53):
Thank you for taking my call. You met, I have
an issue with I had a pipe in my attic
break from freezing and it flooded part of my downstairs.
The downstairs has vinyl plank on it, on top of tile,
on top of the concrete slab, and one of the
(06:15):
remediation companies came in and said, oh, you're you're gonna
have to pull up all that vinyl flooring because there's
water and it's going to stay there forever and get
sinky and all that kind of stuff. What do you
think about that statement? And is that really something that
happened to Because the water came through the ceiling and
disappeared very quickly, so it went under the vinyl plank. Obviously,
(06:38):
I'm just wondering whether it would go through the go
through the concrete and the tile and go away without
having to pull the vinyl floor in. The vinyl flooring
is almost brand new.
Speaker 1 (06:48):
Yeah, how long has it been.
Speaker 3 (06:53):
Well, the flood happened about six weeks ago and the
water disappeared. The water disappeared almost within an half an
hour of its flooding.
Speaker 1 (07:01):
Yeah, where to go?
Speaker 3 (07:04):
Well, the vinyl flooring obviously.
Speaker 1 (07:08):
Okay, so we got a wet concrete floor that's covered
and sealed with vinyl.
Speaker 3 (07:17):
Well, yeah, it's vinyl plank.
Speaker 1 (07:19):
Yeah, but it's final. So I'm not trying to be
a smart guy. But you know, if that water is
going to lay there and is still laying there, it
will get stagnant, Mold will probably grow on the concrete
and maybe grow through the floor. Now I don't know
where that water went. Did it get absorbed in and
(07:42):
go out the side? I don't know. So the only
way I would know is you either take that up
as a precaution or you get a moisture meter where
you can find out what kind of content of moisture
we have underneath that vinyl.
Speaker 3 (07:57):
So yeah, let's maybe do that at the someplace where
you don't actually have to poke a hole in the vinyl.
Speaker 1 (08:03):
Hunt, right, I mean, because you know, also on those
concrete floors there's drains down there. So did it work
its way to the drain? I don't know. So who
told you they had to pull it up?
Speaker 2 (08:14):
Is that somebody, a remediation company that's cleaning it up.
Speaker 3 (08:19):
Right, that would that would because the baseboards all got
soggy and and you know that kind of thing.
Speaker 4 (08:25):
Uh.
Speaker 3 (08:25):
And so they came in and had a moisture meter
and there measured the water content and it was fifty
percent in the in the baseboards or in the area
that was wet.
Speaker 1 (08:36):
And so well that's about much.
Speaker 3 (08:41):
Yeah, service yeah, oh yeah, got yeah. It's service Master
type company with it.
Speaker 1 (08:47):
Yeah. Well, they're the experts. I haven't been there, but
I would you know, if you had fifty percent moisture
in there and you still do that, that's that's a big, big,
big problem, you know that I still do. It's been well,
I don't know either. Yeah, and maybe did. Maybe they
don't know either.
Speaker 3 (09:08):
Yeah, yeah, yeah. Well I'm having ninety miles the Rocky
Road from my insurance company. And that's why I'm thinking
about ignoring, because you know, I'm talking about a thirty
thirty forty thousand dollars job to tear the flooring up
and buy a new flooring and put it down, et cetera.
And I that's not something I want to go to
the boat for.
Speaker 1 (09:28):
So well, most starts growing, you will wish you had,
But what what's the insurance? What's the insurances? Squabble with
you on this?
Speaker 3 (09:36):
Well, they want was this caused by manufacturing? Defect in
the pipe? You know, They're they're coming up with excuses,
all kinds of things like that, And was it something
that I could have prevented? Well, of course in the attic,
you know, And so they're just all these kinds of
things and trying to get pictures of what happened something
in the attic is not easy.
Speaker 1 (09:57):
And so yeah, yeah, well yeah again, I can give
you an argument without seeing it, without testing it. I
can give you an argument on both sides. Okay, I
mean I really can. You know, I can say, okay,
look at it's vinyl. It got underneath the floor. The
concrete absorbed it. There's a vapor barrier underneath that concrete. Eventually,
(10:20):
I guess it'll dry out. You might get a little
mold in there, but as long as we continue not
to have moisture in there, it's probably not going to
continue to grow. I think you'll be all right. You
might have a dampness of smelly basement for a while,
but you know, open up a windows and get fans
in there and suck some of that air out of
(10:42):
that base. You'll be fine. Or I could say, hey, listen,
you've had the experts out there. You had fifty percent
of water. You know, a number of weeks ago. There's
water in that pad. It's never going to dry out.
There's a vapor barrier underneath it. The vinyl plank flooring
is a vapor barrier on top of it. There's nowhere
(11:04):
for that water to go. It's gonna stay wet. It
isn't gonna go away. And as long as there's organic
material and moisture, that mold is gonna grow. So I
can make the argument both ways. The only way you're
gonna know is you're gonna tear it up.
Speaker 4 (11:20):
Yeah.
Speaker 3 (11:21):
Yeah, I'm afraid you're gonna say that.
Speaker 4 (11:22):
Yeah.
Speaker 3 (11:23):
Well, thank you for your expertise. All right, the advice.
Speaker 1 (11:27):
Have a good day, you bet. You take care? All right, Well,
continue your calls. It's eight hundred eight two three eight
two five five. You're at home with Gary Sullivan.
Speaker 5 (11:37):
Time to get your hands dirty with Gary Sullivan. Give
them a call at one eight hundred eighty two three talk.
You're at home with Gary cellivantor.
Speaker 1 (12:01):
Hey Gary Salvin here. If you're spring cleaning and you
find a few plumbing issues around the house like dripping faucet,
slow drains, or even a worn out garbage disposal or
water heater, make a list and call my friends at
Roto Ruter Plumbing and Water clean Up. Roto Routers, licensed
and experienced plumbers can fix any plumbing issues, so give
(12:21):
them a call. It's one eight hundred. Get roto or
schedule online at rotoeruter dot com. Dirty exterior well, don't
scrub it, wet and forget it. Wetn forget. The easy
outdoor cleaner. Wet and forget works over time with Mother
Nature to eliminate unsightly black and green stains on the
exterior of your home with no scrubbing, powerwashing or bleach.
(12:43):
Use wet and forget on all your outdoor surfaces, including decks, siding, roofs,
and patios. Wet and forgets available in a concentrator, extreme
reach hose en purchase wet and forget in a store
or online at Loewsmnards or ACE.
Speaker 2 (12:58):
Every paint removal project comes with it's own set of
challenges and finding the right product for the job can
be difficult.
Speaker 1 (13:04):
I have the solution. Deman has developed a complete paint
removal test kit that will help you zero in on
the best paint removal product that you need for your project.
Test kit includes a down samples of Smart Strip, Advanced,
smart Strip Pro and Peel Away paint removal products with
all the necessary items you need. You can get your
test kit at participating Sherman William's locations or visit Dumontglobal
(13:25):
dot com to purchase the kit, or find a retailer
near you. Spring is here and sorrow the Jaws Spring
Cleaning Caddie Packs just in time to tackle your spring
cleaning jobs.
Speaker 2 (13:35):
This all in one cleaning solution features five.
Speaker 1 (13:37):
High performance Jaws cleaners, including my favorite streak free glass cleaner,
plus refill.
Speaker 2 (13:42):
Pods, microfiber towels, and Jaws dishs spray, all neatly packed
in a convenient caddy.
Speaker 1 (13:48):
With Jaws just add.
Speaker 2 (13:49):
Water system, you'll clean smarter and faster. This limited times
spring cleaning Caddie pack won't last. Order now at jawscleans
dot com enjoy free shipping on order is over thirty
five dollars.
Speaker 1 (14:28):
All right back in it we go twenty two minutes
after the top of the are at home with Gary
Selvan doing a little maintenance from your pair of our
homes today, as we do each and every weekend. Tony, welcome.
Speaker 6 (14:40):
Hey, hey, Garry, how are you doing today?
Speaker 1 (14:42):
Doing fine? Thanks?
Speaker 6 (14:44):
Well, that's great.
Speaker 1 (14:44):
Hey.
Speaker 6 (14:45):
I have a little problem that's been on going for years.
We've been in our house for like forty two years.
We have a detached garage, two car garage. It's drywall
finished and the ceiling. I had to rescrape the paint
off the top because it was splaking and peeling off,
and I went to the process of cleating it, standing
(15:06):
it and putting like a Kills paint on it. And
then I'm sure what ways we put an exterior white
paint with the oil base. And now the same situation
is happening again, and I don't know what we can do.
It's been ongoing and it's been like probably fifteen years
(15:27):
since I did it the first time, right, and now
it's coming back exactly the same.
Speaker 2 (15:33):
Man.
Speaker 3 (15:33):
What's your advice?
Speaker 1 (15:35):
Well, the first thing is, remember oil based paint is
not breathable. Okay, when we were kids, Tony, remember the
exterior house paints paint failed, not because they got ugly.
It just started peeling off the house. So you'd get
a little water behind the paint. Once you had a
little crack in the paint, a little water get behind it,
(15:56):
or yet water on the wall that was coming because
there wasn't a vapor barrier or insulation on the back
side of the shower. So the paint just peeled off.
And I don't know exactly what's going on there, but
when you talk about the kills, you can usually get
by with an oil based primary. You got the kills,
(16:16):
but then you're putting oil base on that. My guess is,
you know, garages can be pretty humid, and so Cain
addics and my guess is that's what's going on that
it's trying that moisture is trying to move through that
paint film, and it's causing the pain film to fail.
Speaker 6 (16:40):
So are you thinking maybe we should go to a
latex paint.
Speaker 1 (16:44):
Absolutely, that would probably be the case.
Speaker 6 (16:48):
Originally I thought it. What had happened is we used
to barbecue in the wonder time, and I'd have the
barbecue grill like paining halfway out the garage. I'm thinking
somebody that had all got into ceiling because it was
all on the ceiling right, not in the sidewalks. So
we said, we're not doing it anymore. So now we're
doing this. So you're definitely saying maybe we should go
(17:09):
to a late paint.
Speaker 1 (17:10):
Well, yeah, So whenever you have peeling paint, you know,
I mean, let's just kind of break it down.
Speaker 2 (17:15):
Peeling paint is delaminating.
Speaker 1 (17:17):
From the subsurface. There's two things, or there's one thing
going on. Okay, it's not having enough adhesion to this,
to the surface, to the substrate, So why doesn't it
get adhesion to a substrate. There's two things, moisture and
improper preparation. So your original theory with the smoke could
(17:41):
have been correct too. If all that smoke and grease
wasn't totally removed, you know, then I would say it
wasn't properly you know, prepared, The prep work wasn't done.
But as soon as you said oil base, that takes
me a whole different direction. Since I didn't know about
the grill, I'm saying moisture somewhere. Is there a vapor barrier?
(18:05):
Is there not a vapor barrier over a garage in
an attic? You you really don't need a vapor barrier
because neither part of above that garage is is living quarters.
So it could be insulation up there with no vapor barrier,
and you got the dampness. It can't get up there
(18:26):
except through the sidewalls. I don't know if there's insulation
on the inside of the walls, but eventually there's you know,
humidity or water vapor in that attic that when it
gets hot down in that garage, that water is being
pulled down that way and the paint film can't breath,
so it's gonna laminate.
Speaker 6 (18:45):
And that kind of makes sense because it's a detached
garage and there's no insulation in the sidewalls, and I
know there's nothing upstairs. There's some woodplanks up there to wash.
Speaker 1 (18:55):
It's just not breathing.
Speaker 3 (18:57):
Itlf excuse me.
Speaker 6 (18:58):
The cel of itself, it's like not a complete flat
surface at the beginning. It was like a slight textured
you know, back in the day, because our house will
build with sixty six so you get an idea the
construction of those crimes, and it wasn't a complete with surface,
so like you have a little bit of somebody trying
to face it up with the drywall stuff. But hey,
(19:20):
I appreciate your input there. Would definitely have to go
with a late text to where it can breathe.
Speaker 1 (19:25):
Yeah, yeah, And you're going to have to get that
oil base off on the surface, otherwise you're painting paint
that's going to appeal. So if you put a breathable
late text over a non breatheable oil, it's the same thing.
It'll laminate. So we got to get that oil paint
off or the problem continues.
Speaker 2 (19:45):
We'll continue with your calls. You're at home with Carrie Sullivan.
Speaker 5 (19:54):
Home Improvement one oh one with Gary Sullivan every weekend.
Classes began at one eight hundred eight two three tall.
You're at home with Gary Sullivan.
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(20:47):
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(22:45):
back at it we go thirty three minutes after the
top of the hour. By the way, all about the
odors in your home. You can pick that up on
the iHeart podcast. It's at Home with Gary Sullivan. Now
we're gonna go back to the phones. And by the way,
if you want to grab a line, douce so it's
eight hundred eight two three eight two five five John.
Speaker 4 (23:05):
Welcome, Hi Gary.
Speaker 8 (23:08):
Uh, this is my first time calling. I've heard of
this problem. I've listened to you, you know, many years,
and I hear this coming up. So I wanted to
call it. It's not a problem. I wanted to give
you some information. It's on chimney caps, and you know
how they taper from the flute, the flute pipe down
(23:31):
to the brick.
Speaker 9 (23:32):
Well.
Speaker 8 (23:33):
I built my home in nineteen eighty and within ten
years by oh, so it's a brick home. And I've got.
Speaker 1 (23:49):
Ahead him, turn your radio down. You're going to get
all confused otherwise, so just turn the radio down, if
you would, and then we'll continue.
Speaker 8 (23:56):
Oh is this better?
Speaker 1 (24:02):
Yep, much better?
Speaker 8 (24:04):
Okay, I'm true. So anyway, within oh, I have one
of the nineteen eighty you know, a brickhouse, and my
chimney faces north. It's a fireplace chimney and it's one
(24:25):
of those you know where they kind of big and
they went straight up. Anyway, within ten years the chimney
was falling down. I mean, well bricks. You know. How
what happened was because of the way the chimney, you know,
the way they did the wash at the top, it'd
(24:47):
get snow melt, it would drip down, freeze snow melt,
and it just sort of hell out of a brick,
you know, right. So fortunately, when I had the house
built in nineteen eighty. I saved those little things to
come into brick, you know, the brick packs, and I
(25:09):
found where the brick was made and the type. I
got all the brick from Mac Industries in Valley City.
Well they were real good. They called the guy from
the brick place and he came out and looked at
my chimney. Oh, and I had to get it replaced.
(25:30):
But I thought they were really good. And the deal
was he would replace all the bricks free, and I
had to pay for the cement guy, you know.
Speaker 6 (25:39):
To put the bricks up.
Speaker 8 (25:40):
So I said, yeah, that's great. Now. The big thing
he did he gave me a drawing. The drawing was
for a chimney cap. And what the chimney cap is.
They form it on top of the chimney. I mean
it's like a port with forms to my forest round it.
(26:01):
It goes out around a chimney and you know, I'm
in a half to two.
Speaker 1 (26:05):
Inches right right. It had a revealed.
Speaker 8 (26:08):
Park park concrete in there, and inside the form they
put quarter round mold you know in the house. Here
m what you'd use for trim on the inside. And
then they pour that whole thing and what that does.
The water comes off, goes over the edge of the cap,
(26:32):
goes into that mold, and drips down about an inch
off the chimney.
Speaker 1 (26:40):
Yeah, I'll tell you another thing, John, You're you're exactly right.
So if you look over the ages the way the
crownwash was put on a chimney, and especially in more
you know nowadays with uh, you know, track builders and stuff,
a lot of them are just you know, it's sheet metal.
Speaker 2 (27:01):
It's for it's you know, for a inserted fire box.
Speaker 1 (27:06):
You know, it's not wood burning even But in the
old you know, with the older chimneys, the crown wash
would have like a two inch reveal over the brick
and you can you can see the you can see
both ways. One is at the edge of the brick,
the crown wash just ends and it's got a slight
(27:30):
tilt off to the side where the water comes off.
The crown wash rolls down the brick, which is probably
what you had. And then there's other ones that have
a pretty steep crown wash. It's not flat, it's kind
of like a pyramid. And then the flu comes out
of that and the water hits that and it comes
down much faster but still goes over the brick and
(27:53):
then like the proper way for a crown wash would
have a two inch reveal. And it's almost like, if
you can use this terminology, it's like an oversized slab
that sits on top of the chimney with the flu
that goes through it. And again it's bringing the water
off the chimney and not right down the brick. And
(28:14):
that's the key. If it's going down the brick all
the time, the lifespan of that of that brick is diminished.
So John, you've got to resolve now where its again.
It's pulling that water off the chimney and away from
the brick, and that's the key. You're exactly right. I
(28:35):
appreciate your input. Let's go to Dave. Dave, welcome, hy Gary.
Speaker 4 (28:41):
How you doing today?
Speaker 1 (28:42):
Doing fine? Thanks?
Speaker 9 (28:43):
Hey, I've got a roof that's about I think I'm
looking at eighteen years, nineteen years and it's a dimensional
shanle asphalt shingle. I believe it was either a twenty
or thirty year shingle when I put it on on.
I recently had that leaf filter gutter cap put on,
(29:06):
and boy, I've noticed well and it had nothing to
do with the leaf filter. But I've noticed I get
a lot of the sand pebbles sitting on top of
the gutters, and I'm wondering, is it time to replace
the Roof's what's a good sign for Sam when you need.
Speaker 1 (29:23):
To replace your roof, that's the number one sign. That's
the number one sign.
Speaker 2 (29:27):
So it's funny, I just just.
Speaker 1 (29:30):
Recorded a tip on roof failures. What's the things to
look for? Did it yesterday? And what I did is
explain that they that's saying that's over the shingle itself.
What that is is that is what protects that shingle
from the ultraviolet rays of the sun. Without that, that
(29:54):
shingle becomes very brittle, cracks, the edges curl up. That's
another thing to look for. Or pieces of shingle in
the gutter, that's another thing to look for. But as
they as those shingles get near the end of their lifespan,
that granular protection that sand I'll call it, dilaminates from
(30:15):
the shingles. So we start seeing excessive amounts of sand
in our gutters, on top of our gutter protectors whatever.
We just see a lot of this. So crack shingles,
curling shingles, missing shingles, sand in the gutter, little not punctures,
(30:36):
but little divots out of the shingle from like a
hailstorm at the end of that shingles life. All those
things say you need to start at least having a
roofer look at it and see if you need a
new roof, because you said it's eighteen years old, and
you don't know whether it was a twenty, twenty five
or thirty year shingle. I had a thirty year shingle
(30:58):
on my home. I replaced a twenty two years. So
if you have a twenty year shingle, you probably got
a twenty five year and it's probably getting near the
end of its life.
Speaker 9 (31:06):
Yeah. And plus I've got a ranch which has a
pretty shallow all right, yeah, which I know it cuts
down the life of shingles.
Speaker 1 (31:14):
Too, right right, So yeah, there's our our factors. But
i'd get somebody take a look at it and just
give yourself an inspection. I know what I did. I
called my roofer and said, hey, come give my home
and inspection to my roof. You know, I think I'm
getting close to knee in the roof. A lot of
them will do it no charge. They'll be there ten minutes,
(31:37):
fifteen minutes, and they'll go you know what, you probably
this is what I'm telling you what the guy told me. Okay,
so personal experience, he said, you know you probably you
probably get about another two years out of that if
you want to, but it's definitely gonna need replace in
the next couple of years. I replaced it the following year.
Speaker 9 (31:56):
Okay, well, I appreciate it that I was thinking I
was going down that path, but I it's nice to
get reinforcement.
Speaker 1 (32:03):
So good. Get a couple of quotes. Compare them because
it's amazing the differences. You'll see too, how they're going
to do that and what they're going to do. And
we'll chat about that when you get them.
Speaker 9 (32:14):
Hey, aside question, have they improved roofs that well that
much over the last.
Speaker 1 (32:18):
Twenty years, Well, yeah, they're you know, they got shingles
now that with wind ratings of one hundred and ten
miles an hour. It depends you know where you're at
the type of roof. They got ice guard that's cod
in a lot of parts of the country. It goes
under the first four feet. We got some people trying
to put in roofing using the same flashing. I'm not
(32:39):
so sure I do that. Uh, but you know you
have you get three quotes, You'll get three different opinions
of how that roof should be done. And then I'll
ask you questions like how long you want to be there,
how long you know, et cetera. So, yeah, don't you
know there's there's always variables.
Speaker 9 (32:56):
Yeah, Okay, thank you very much. Gary.
Speaker 1 (32:58):
All right, you bet. Thanks. We'll take a break and
come back Bill ed Dan, you guys will be next.
We'll continue at eight hundred eight two three eight two
five five year at Home with Gary Sullivan.
Speaker 5 (33:10):
Help for your home is just a click away at
Garysullivan online dot com. This is at Home with Gary Sullivan.
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(34:27):
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Speaker 2 (36:06):
We go twelve minutes before the top of the hour,
working our way.
Speaker 1 (36:09):
Through another weekend. Happy to take your calls. We'll have
another hour to go if we finish up this hour
so you can join us. It'll be eight hundred eighty
two three eight two five five, and let's go to Bill. Bill.
Speaker 4 (36:22):
Welcome, Gary Sullivan. You've got the right name for this
week and I'll tell you my friend the happy Saint Patty's.
Speaker 1 (36:29):
Day half sure to be goingy, I tell you clothes
at two thirty, I listen, you were talking.
Speaker 4 (36:37):
You were talking about flashing early. I live in a
brick home, two story, nineteen sixty four, and I'm talking
to my wife. She doesn't think it's a good idea.
I'm talking to my neighbors about flashing. So what I've
been doing the last week, the weather's sat on the break,
I go out and get the daily paper, just not
(37:00):
want the tennis shoes. And I went on a neighborhood naked.
So they say, Bill, flashing is a bad idea. I
don't know if I need we again or or to exit.
I'll take your in so off the air when I
enjoy your program.
Speaker 1 (37:15):
Yeah, the flashing serves a very important Yeah, flashing can
be bad, but flashing on a roof is very good.
So where the roof is usually meeting the side of
the house, there's a you know, obviously a seam, and
you know what you're doing is you're creating a little
saddle or a little drain so that the water as
(37:38):
it's rushing down the roof doesn't get underneath or in
that seam to rot the wood on the side of
the house, or to rot the wood underneath the underneath
the shingles. So one of the things about flashing, quite honestly,
is when you're replacing a roof, and especially roof where
(37:58):
you start having warranties in the you know, thirty year range,
thirty forty years, twenty five years even um get the
flashing replaced. When the roof is being you know, torn off,
you tear it off. The second second coating of roofing
(38:20):
shingles is never a good idea if you read the warranty,
avoids the warranty right away. So you know, when you
have a a shingled roof, you tear it off, you
replace the flashing. You know they're going to take a
look at the wood beneath it, and that's going to
be a separate little quote. If we find it'll be
(38:40):
so much, so much, and it'll explain that. But the flashing,
you know a lot of times it's galvanized metal. They're
doing things now where they call it a California weave,
where they weave the shingles to cover up that natural
(39:01):
But I still, I mean, I don't need copper flashing,
But a galvani is a good painting. Galvanized flashing is
a really good idea in my opinion, if you can
still leave it there, have a new roof installed and
get up there and you know, get rid of the
rust and maybe patch the holes and paint the flashing.
(39:22):
But I think that you know, when you're getting into
these longer range roofing, I think you go ahead and
pay a little attention to the flashing and maybe go
ahead and change that out. All right, let's go to
add ed Welcome, Thank.
Speaker 10 (39:38):
You, gery, good morning. My son and I are getting
ready to start a pretty significant remodel on a house
in Colorado at about seven thousand feet and one of
the things that we're going to add is a pretty
large deck, and we've been working at wood versus tracks,
(40:00):
us maybe some other materials for the deck. Considering the
process and minuses of wood and other materials, do you
have a preferred material that you would recommend for building
(40:21):
an outdoor deck in that climate?
Speaker 1 (40:24):
Yeah, I mean there are literally so many different ways
to go with this now ed Quite honestly, I mean
it really is. It's you know, you can certainly continue
with the pressure treated wood, you can go all the
way up to some of the newer cap composites where incredible,
you know. So I think the first thing you really
(40:46):
need to think about is a budget. You know, exactly
what are you planning on looking at in terms of
a deck, because there's a significant swing in prices. And
then you've got to look at lifestyle. How's that deck
going to be used, who's going to be using it.
(41:08):
A lot of times people focus on, you know, the
heat in the area, the positioning of the deck, but
quite honestly, wood gets hot. Cap can posits, they get
hot and I'll say warm and and you know, so
that's not really going to come into play too much.
(41:30):
But I really think it's you know, the lifestyle, the budget,
what do you want to look like. I just did
an interview with somebody this past week, and you know,
he outdoor living is such a big thing and how
you're going to use it and what he was going
to use it for and everything. You know, I mean
he was talking to you know, one hundred thousand plus
(41:51):
deck and and and that's fine. I'm sure it'll be
absolutely gorgeous. So I guess that's an answer. Maybe you
can fill in some spots then what you're thinking of,
and then I can make it.
Speaker 10 (42:05):
Well, I know, wood would probably be the most economical.
I've built a deck before in New Hampshire. Uh and
uh uh and uh I've lived there for a few
years after it was built and it was perfectly fine. Uh.
(42:26):
But yeah, I know there's a lot of in the
pressure treated wood. There's a lot of chemicals in there.
And and like I was just, uh, we would be
able to we would be willing to put a little
extra money in the deck to make sure we had something.
And this is this is gonna be used largely for
(42:48):
outdoor uh kind of outdoor living when the weather permits,
and and having cookouts and things like that. And uh,
there's just so many options.
Speaker 2 (43:00):
Yeah, sure is.
Speaker 1 (43:00):
So we're down to about a minute. So let me
give you my input on that, because we're down to
about a minute. Number one, if you're going to go
pressure treated wood, pressure to reated would of today is
not the pressure tread of yesteryear. Uh and not from
a good standpoint, that's my opinion. Okay, it's not nearly
as pressure treated as it once was. If you're going
(43:22):
to use pressure treated wood, I would highly recommend using
a kiln dride pressure treated wood. It'll be much more stable,
be more expensive, and long run, there's going to be
less maintenance. Uh so you can certainly still use it.
I would prefer a kiln dride pressure treated wood. As
far as cap composits, that's just how far you want
(43:44):
to go from cosmetics. There's one called millboard, there's one
called decorators. Those are like the premium of the premium
and capped composites, and sometimes one of them, the millboard
is actually a lot stone center and the decorators is
a PVC or a polyethylene I believe, And so they
(44:08):
both carry twenty five year warranties. There's awesome. Now those
are two pricey, both of those companies. And then when
you get into the trecks in a timber tech, they
have diminishing prices because they have cap products with the
PVC cap product and maybe the tongue and groove isn't capped,
(44:29):
and they kind of take the wood out of play.
And they're very good. They still have a twenty five
year warranty, but they don't have the beauty of maybe
the millboard or the decorators, which seriously looks like Brazilian
hardwood outside. So those are some things to kind of
think about. I hope that helps. We're up against the clock.
Speaker 2 (44:53):
So we'll take a break. At home with Gary Sullivan's.
Speaker 5 (45:17):
Help for your home is just a click away at
Garysullivan online dot com. This is at Home with Gary Sullivan.
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