Episode Transcript
Available transcripts are automatically generated. Complete accuracy is not guaranteed.
Speaker 1 (00:29):
Well the weekends upon us Welcome You're at Home with
Gerry Salvin. This hours brought to you by Easy Breathe.
If you suffer from allergies or asthma, one thing you
may consider is an Easy Breathed ventilation system which actually
reduces airborne particles by eighty five percent. And right now
(00:52):
with an Easy Breathe ventilation system, you'll receive a free
humidity monitoring kit and you can give him a call
learn more about it. Their website is the Letter E
the Letter Z breathe dot com and a lot of
great information there also Easy Breathe. We thank them for
sponsoring this hour of at Home with Gary Sullivan boy,
(01:15):
just even talking about the Easy Breathe and this time
of year, a lot of heat, a lot of humidity.
Ventilation inside our home so so important and we'll get
to that this weekend because that's a big concern to
a lot of people this time of year. And you
go down the basement, you get near a cross space
and you just smell that dampness and that moldy smell.
(01:40):
It probably is molden. We need to talk about getting
that cleaned up to have a healthy home. All right.
Our phone numbers eight hundred eight two three eight two
five five and Dwight you kick us off this hour.
Speaker 2 (01:56):
Well, the question I have is I we had a
a small basement and the paint had peeled at pete
was peeling, and I have scraped off all the paint
off of it that I can't get off of it
and everything, and it's got some small cracks in it.
And what we wanted to do find out what we
needed to do with the cracks. And we wanted to
(02:18):
uh put a some kind of a liquid or moisture
barrier on the floor, uh you know, to see it.
You know, I have never had no, have had no
uh visible uh water in the basement at all. So
with I just wanted what we needed to do to it.
Speaker 1 (02:40):
So these cracks are we talking on the floor, were
talking on the walls.
Speaker 2 (02:48):
They're on the floor. They're not real, They're not very wide,
you know, they probably uh be uh maybe one eighth
or less. Uh And they're just a small cracks you
know in the flower. The previous paint you know, went
down in the cracks, you know, and covered them up.
(03:08):
But we were just wanting what we needed to do
that now, just do anything to the cracks or just
let the paint or whatever put in there. You'd like
to put some kind of moisture barrier paint on the floor.
Speaker 1 (03:23):
Yeah, yeah, the the paint would probably do it for you.
If they're just the size of like a pencil tip, there's.
Speaker 2 (03:34):
A product they're not very big at all.
Speaker 1 (03:36):
Yeah, there's a product called dry Lock. Been around for
a long time, and for years they did not make
dry Lock for floors. They do now, and that's the
one i'd recommend. When you say, most floor paints actually breathe,
(03:56):
so they're not vapor barriers, but the dry Lock is
a total vapor barrier product. And like I said, now
they make one for floors. I think it comes in colors.
I don't know it comes in clear, but I think
it comes in colors also.
Speaker 2 (04:16):
Yeah, it's the course I didn't get whenever I was
scraping the paint off of it. You know, it was loose,
you know, with a scraper, you know, the thing I
didn't get. It's sort of a gray colored paint, you know,
and everything, but I didn't get all of it off yet.
I got all of it off that I could scrape
off with a scraper, you know, and everything. So I
(04:36):
just you know, I wouldn't want to put a clear
paint on it. I want to put some kind of
a color on it.
Speaker 1 (04:43):
Right. Well, like I said, most of your paints for
floors allow it to breathe, so they are not a
moisture barrier paint. Okay, just see you know that. Another
thing when you're using a moisture barrier paint or a
water proofing paint, one of the first things that will
(05:05):
have in the directions is in order to get the
full benefits of a moisture barrier waterproof paint is you
got to remove the paint. You got to remove all
the paint, and that may be difficult to do. You
can do it mechanically, you can do it chemically, so
(05:25):
you can either grind it off or use paint strippers
to remove it. And then you can you know, make
your choices on the type of paint. So again, the
dry Lock would be the only one that I know
that actually is a non breathing moisture barrier waterproof paint.
(05:46):
And like I said, they do have one for floors.
It's d R Y l O K is the name
of the product.
Speaker 2 (05:56):
Would you do that spell out again?
Speaker 1 (05:58):
D r y l o K.
Speaker 2 (06:02):
B R Why D is in dry d.
Speaker 1 (06:06):
R y l o K d r y l o
K Yeah, with the D is in dry.
Speaker 2 (06:19):
Yeah d r y yeah okay, dry lock yeah down.
Speaker 1 (06:25):
All right, But check that out you go.
Speaker 2 (06:29):
Where would you go about getting this? When you get this,
get a paint store or a lot.
Speaker 1 (06:34):
Of paint stores carry it. Big box stores carry it,
independent hardware stores. It's a it's a it's a pretty
prevalent product. You can find it around. But when I
say that, make sure you're getting the one for the floors, because,
uh they've they've had a product probably for eighty ninety
years for walls, and just recently they've started with a
(06:55):
floor paint on dry Lock.
Speaker 2 (06:57):
Well. I believe I may have may have used this,
uh on maybe on the wall up about two foot
on the wall in that basement already it's white, but
um it was I think I think that can that
I've got he's got. I think he's got dry Lock
road on it.
Speaker 1 (07:16):
It probably does. It's probably the number one waterproofing paint
for foundation walls. But like I said, it's a separate
product for floors. It'll say floors, Okay, all right, you bet,
take care? Bye bye, all right, and uh let's go
to uh Bill, Bill welcome.
Speaker 2 (07:35):
Hello? How are you?
Speaker 1 (07:36):
Yes, sir? Fine?
Speaker 3 (07:37):
Thanks, I'm I'm building a new deck pressure treated lumber.
Speaker 1 (07:42):
Okay?
Speaker 3 (07:43):
When when can I stain that?
Speaker 1 (07:48):
Uh?
Speaker 4 (07:49):
And my the other question is, I've heard you talk
about dry you were talking about the FI and is
that is THEFI strictly a website purchase or do they
carry it someplace else?
Speaker 1 (08:03):
Do it best hardware stores carry it?
Speaker 5 (08:07):
Okay?
Speaker 1 (08:08):
So do it centers if you got any of those,
So they carry it. That's about the only place you
can do it outside of the websites. But do it
Best carries it? So that's the million dollar question. Yeah,
the million dollar question is when? When? When? And unfortunately
(08:30):
there's no straight answer. Number one, we don't know how
long that pressure treat wood's been sitting in a store
or whether it was just pressure treated. It's going to
take time for the sun to kind of bake that
moisture out of there. You you probably had people tell
you a year. You probably had people tell you six months.
(08:50):
You probably had people tell you two weeks, and all
those could be correct, but there's really only one way
to tell, and that is you to stain that when
that wood can accept as much stain into the fibers
as you can. And the only way to know that
is to take a tablespoon of water and put it
(09:13):
on that wood and give it about thirty to forty
seconds to soak into that wood. And when it does that,
it can accept the stain. If it stays there and
beads up, there's no room in that wood fiber to
accept that stain. Okay, to compound that, the defy is
probably one of the best stains for decks, but it's
(09:37):
a water base. It's it's an acrylic, it's a latex,
which holds up better against the sun, but its penetration
is a little more difficult to get it into the
wood fibers compared to an oil. So if you get
to defy, I mean, I'm not telling you not to.
(09:58):
It's great stain, but you want to use the preparation
is really critical. You want to clean that even though
you know it's just you know, whether it's two weeks
or six months, you still want to clean that with
their deck cleaner. And then they have a deck brightener,
(10:18):
and a deck brightener is an oxalic acid which opens
up the pores of the wood, allowing the acrylic deck
stains to penetrate deeper. It's kind of like use a
meradic acid for concrete, okay. And and oxalic acid is
a very very mild mild acid. I mean it's you're
not gonna hurt anything, but it just opens up those fibers.
(10:41):
It allows to absorb that stain even better. So those
are the two preparation products you want to use, and
I kind of recommend them for all deck stains. I mean,
why not. You want to get that deck stain into
that wood the best you can. But you know, I
would say if it were me, I'd probably be looking
(11:02):
at staining that if it accepts the water. You know,
maybe around labor day.
Speaker 5 (11:10):
Okay.
Speaker 3 (11:11):
Now, when I was on Defia's website, they have a
product that's an oil and a water mixture.
Speaker 1 (11:17):
Right combo, right, And that's the newer product that's a
modified oil, and that's probably where a lot of deck
stains are going right now. It's an alcat acrylic and
an alcat acrylic has It's kind of weird because it's
oil and water mixed and we know that doesn't mix,
but it does, right, and so you get the benefit
(11:40):
of a little better penetration, yet you still get the
benefits of the acrylic and you know, so yeah, that
would probably be when you said to DeFi I'm still
used to just talking about their water based acrylics, and
they do there's all kinds of tests. It gives you
(12:00):
an extra season or two worth of life, and the
the modified alka acrylics kind of fall in that same, uh,
you know, same parallel. But I'd still do that prep
work like I talked about deck Breightener's.
Speaker 5 (12:18):
Okay, all right, well, thank you very much, appreciate.
Speaker 1 (12:21):
Your You're quite welcome. Thank you, bye bye. So how
do you use that? It's really just a mixture that's
put on the surface, allowed to sit for about ten minutes,
agitate and rinse off, allowed to dry. All right, Well,
continue with your calls. You're at home with Gary Sullivan.
Speaker 6 (12:38):
Solon shootings to your home improvement are as easy as
calling one eight eight two three talk this. He is
at home with Gary Sullivan.
Speaker 2 (13:03):
Ah.
Speaker 1 (13:03):
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(15:36):
back in it we go. Twenty three minutes after the
top of the are talking a little home improvement. And
by the way, the modified alcat acrylic by defy a
couple changes in that they still make the defy. I
think it's called essential. That's the straight acrylic. The alcat
(15:56):
acrylic is called Ultra semi transparent. The akrll ACHE is
a two code system and the Ultra can be a
one or a two code system, so there's some flexibility there.
The first code will penetrate in deeper, so it'll be
(16:17):
a flat finish. Your second coat will add a deeper
color and a little bit of a sheene. Both of
them rainproof in like four hours, so that's one of
the advantages again of the modified alcat acrylics. And again
it's got those zinc and nanoparticles, so it's kind of
like a sunscreen for your deck. That's why it doesn't
(16:39):
fade quite as quickly as some of the other products
on the market. All Right, just kind of wanted to
give you an update there. Kind of forget about that
one when I was talking to him. It's relatively news
in the last year. Let's go to Jay. Jay. Welcome, Well,
I have.
Speaker 5 (16:54):
A question about concrete patching. I have a sidewalk four
to eight years ago. It's just regular concrete. Nothing, no
stamp or nothing. Long story short, it's long. Where they
cut the relief cut, it's cracked out quite a bit, okay.
And there's also other spots in it that's have putt
(17:17):
marks like that. Try and figure out what to do
with it other than ripping it out and pouring again.
Speaker 1 (17:25):
Well, it depends on the one I'm most concerned about
is where the relief joints are. And you say it's
cracked pretty bad. Yeah, there's patching cements, but they have limitations.
In other words, if you're patching over a concrete surface
that's cracked, obviously, stability is an issue. And the thickness
(17:47):
you can put a patch on over the surface is
like a half inch. And that's the Quick Creek.
Speaker 5 (17:54):
Mmm, Quick Creek Concrete.
Speaker 1 (17:57):
Finyl concrete patcher, yes, okay, has a half inch limitation.
It's great for spawling where the surface is popped off
and pot marks. It does a great job. It's got
a bombing agent in it. It'll stick to the concrete.
But if you got a whole bunch of areas that
(18:19):
are cracked and you're gonna put it over the cracked area,
I don't know how well that's going to last.
Speaker 5 (18:27):
The only area I have that that's cracks per se
is along that same line, and it's it's cracked about
maybe three each of an inch deep, and it's come
out growing uh spots. It's up there about three inches wide. Now,
oh my, the rest is just puck marks.
Speaker 1 (18:46):
Yeah, the puck marks will do great with the vinyl
concrete patcher for the crack. I'll tell you what I
would really take a look at is take a look
at some of your eurothane self leveling crack fillers, and
even at a three inch mark, if you put in
some sand in there, kind of put it as a
(19:06):
filler and then run that self leveling your thing crack filler.
On top of that, you got to get an industrial
clocking gun. It's thick, it's hard to get out of
the tube. But I'll tell you what that stuff's good.
That that would be perfect for that because he's got
great adhesion, great flexibility. If you just put concrete in there,
(19:28):
that flexing will just crack that concrete up. So again,
vinyl concrete patcher for the you know, pot marks, and
then the self leveling your thing crack filler for the
cracks itself in the uneven part all right, thank you much, Jay,
I appreciate it. We'll take a break. We'll come back
and get your calls. You're at home with Gary Sulivan's.
Speaker 6 (19:52):
Okay, it's the weekend and you have fixed questions. Get
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(22:02):
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(22:52):
All right, let's get back to work. What do you
say You're at home with Gary Selvin talking about your
home projects or maintenance or repair. Feel free to gramble
line and we'll go to Rose. Rose, Welcome, Good morning morning.
Speaker 7 (23:05):
About two years ago, on a full sun deck, we
replaced the pressure treated boards on the floor and properly
cured it and cleaned it and put their semi transparent
stain and sailor which apparently didn't penetrate it. Apparently has
some problems with that, and so now it needs to
(23:26):
be taken off. There's peeling, laking, sort of a black
residue coming up from the floor. So I wanted to
know chemically remove it, power wor sufficient?
Speaker 1 (23:38):
And what did well? Chemically removing it would would be
the best Rose. So is this a solid color stain
or is it a semi transparent stain? Semi transparent, semi transparent,
and and you'd let it season. How long did it take? Again,
there's no right or wrong way, but how long was it? Not?
Speaker 7 (24:03):
Very long after it was applied, so sort of a
black residue came up through the floorboards and that could
be moorshed off with the groom in a hoose. But
now it's all peeling, and even.
Speaker 2 (24:18):
On the railings.
Speaker 1 (24:20):
I don't know what that black residu would be. I
don't know either, coming up through the boards. That's kind
of creepy.
Speaker 7 (24:28):
And it's a post on deck, so it isn't.
Speaker 1 (24:33):
Yeah, So to answer your question, I mean it's I
would use a regular, you know, deck stained stripper. It's
kind of a liquid or a gel. I'm sure Bear
makes one, and you can start out if you want
by using a pressure washer. Just don't get too crazy
(24:55):
with it because you can start making that wood fuzz
up and do some damage to the wood. But if
you want to useful use I'm sorry.
Speaker 7 (25:08):
What PSI would you use?
Speaker 1 (25:09):
I would say under three thousand, you know, probably twenty
four hundred would be ideal with a fifteen degree tip,
maybe twenty five degree tip. Let's make it twenty four
hundred PSI with a twenty five degree tip about eighteen
inches away from the deck boards. See how much to use.
Speaker 7 (25:29):
I'm sorry talking over you.
Speaker 1 (25:31):
I was just saying we'll see how much we can
take up. It's it's odd that it's peeling because it's
a semi transparent so there should be you know, if
the wood was dry and we put on you know,
not too much, you know, where we let it puddle,
there should be nothing on the surface. It's a semi
(25:53):
transparent means it's one hundred percent penetration into the wood fibers.
If that were the case, it couldn't peel.
Speaker 7 (26:00):
So according to the Internet, there's a couple of videos
and people have had problems with this. The Bear can
says to use the Bear wood stain and finish stripper
and then use the all in one wood cleaner neutralizer.
But I'm a little reluctant to use a Bear product.
Speaker 1 (26:18):
Well, yeah, I think the advice they gave you there
is correct. Though. By using that brightener or wood cleaner
that you said, that's that exotic acid, that's a real
good prep to open up the wood fibers. So I'm
kind of recommending this. I kind of recommend those same
(26:40):
kind of products, maybe a different brand, but normally brand.
You know, Bear has a good product. Why that isn't
penetrating into the wood? I don't know, sometimes it's not
just the product, quite honestly, I mean people will oversee overseal,
or people won't use a brightener to open up the
(27:01):
wood fibers. And then I'm not saying it's your fault.
I'm just saying that's sometimes you know, it can still
get bad press just because application's difficult.
Speaker 7 (27:15):
After it gets totally cleaned and prepared to put another
sealer on it, what would you recommend that you fire or.
Speaker 1 (27:25):
Yeah, I mean I'd like to defy. I mean there's
a lot of good ones. I mean I've recommended the
bare ones before. Do you know what type of it?
Was it an oil? Was it an alcat acrylic, which
is oil and water or was it a water base
semi transparent?
Speaker 7 (27:47):
Well I got the label. It says fair Premium solid
color Waterproofing stain and sealer All weather Protection.
Speaker 1 (27:56):
Okay, Well, first of all, so that isn't a semi
TRA's parent. That's a solid color stain. So that makes
sense why it's peeling. And it also so yeah, so
solid color stains will sometimes have problems sticking or penetrating
(28:17):
because it's a film. It's like paint. And if that
wood is not totally seasoned properly, or those wood fibers
aren't opened up properly. A solid color stain can be
challenged to not hold up. So now it makes sense.
So as a solid color stain, yeah, use your pressure
(28:39):
washer trying to remove as much of that off as
you can, and then you're gonna have to go with
the stained stripper and your call on the on the brand.
They're all fairly pretty much the same. It's a gel
or a liquid that goes on there. You let it
sit preferably, you do it in the cool part of
(29:02):
the day to keep that stripper moist, and then you
can use your pressure washer. Also, you can put the
stripper on in a deck cleaning brush and remove it
that way and then hose it and rinse, give it
a few days to dry off. And then again, if
you're going to use a solid color stain, just be mindful.
(29:28):
That's it like a paint. So we got to make
sure that that wood is really dry. I talked about
using a dollup of water on there, making sure it
penetrates into the wood, and then come back and use
a deck brightener where it's going to open up the
wood fibers. That's the only way I would prep a
deck if I was going to use a solid color stain.
Speaker 7 (29:52):
Well, if you didn't put a solid color stain on,
what would you put your seal it, you'd.
Speaker 1 (29:58):
Use a semi transp parent, But it too has I'm
gonna say, you know, it's not perfect either. So a
semi transparent stain you'll usually get in a sunny location,
you'll usually get two to three years with a service.
Prep work is easy. It's a matter of cleaning it
(30:20):
and reapplying it. A solid color stain, if you know,
if it penetrates and it's you know, properly applied, you
should probably get three to five years with a service.
So it's gonna last longer if it bites onto the
wood than a semi transparent, and it's gonna look different.
It's not gonna look like paint. It's gonna look like
(30:42):
stained wood.
Speaker 7 (30:49):
Well, I think you've answered my question.
Speaker 1 (30:51):
Thank you very good, Thank you much. Take care. So
we got to go over this and mean this because
there is is this whole deck thing. I've been talking
about stain in decks for probably forty years, and it's changed,
it's evolved, and I think it just confuses a lot
of people they maybe aren't really sure exactly what they're buying.
(31:16):
And I started to show off today saying we're going
to talk about that. So now is a good time
to talk about this. Number One. You have basically basically
two types. You have a semi transparent stain which looks
like stained woodwork inside your home. You can you can
see the grain highlights and it's kind of a it's
(31:41):
not a cover up, it's not a film. It penetrates
into the wood fiber. The sun it beats it up
faster because it's not a coating. There's not as many
solids in it. So, like I said, couple two to
three years, that's good in a sunny location. A solid
(32:01):
color stain looks just like paint. And when you have
pressure treated wood that was infused with chemicals and waters
and then you have a water based solid color stain,
you got to help open up those wood fibers. And
that's why I'm talking about the deck brighten or the
exolic acid. And I'm not I'm not pushing you one
(32:25):
way or the other. There's people that want to use
pressure tree or a semi transparent stain. They don't want
a painted look. On their deck. In fact, they'll look
at you like you're crazy if you suggest it. They
want that natural look, but you gotta know it's gonna
last two to three years. Then there's other people, you know,
(32:47):
they don't care. They don't want to work on that
deck all the time, and they want it to last
as well as they can, and they don't care if
it looks like forest green or whatever color they pick it.
That's what they want. A solid color stae the heck
with the wood grain, and that's fine too. I've recommended
both for different people, and sometimes they think it's a
(33:09):
good idea, and sometimes they go like, no, I don't
want a solid color stainer. No, I don't want to
redo this thing every two to three years. And now
it's gotten a little bit more complicated because now we've
come out with modified acrylic alkits, which I can talk
about that for all day. I think that's a really
really good compromise. That comes in a semi transparent, it
(33:32):
comes in a solid color stain. It bites onto the
wood better than just a pure latex. But the key,
the key is it is in any type of painting
or ceiling is preparation of the wood you know, when
I talked about using a pressure washer and being careful,
(33:53):
I've seen people take pressure washers and not the companies
that do it for their service, but maybe somebody doesn't
really understand pressure washers. They got there with a thirty
five hundred PSI pressure washer with a fifteen degree tip,
and man, yeah, it'll clean it up, and it'll it'll
almost take a thin layer of wood off in some cases,
(34:16):
and it'll create little fuzz and then they do a
semi transparent and that little fuzz is a darker color
than the board and they're upset, of course, but it
was improperly prepped. So if you're I'm not trying to
care everybody about this, but there's a lot to it.
Now there's more choices. When pressure treated wood came out
(34:39):
in the late seventies early eighties, there wasn't even a
deck sealer out there. I think the first people to
introduce it was Thompson's Waterproofing, and it wasn't even a
deck sealer. It was a waterproofing. It was wax and oils,
and it didn't last long. And we've just been through
generations in generaltions and generations of revisions and there's some
(35:05):
really good products out there, really expensive too. I think
that defy uh extreme that I was talking about the
modified Outco Curley. I think that's around seventy five bucks
a gallon one or two code process. All right, Happy
to take your deck calls or any of your home
improven questions. That's what we're here for. Our phone number
(35:27):
is eight hundred eight two three eight two five five. Doug,
you'll be up first, and then we got Chris, Frank
and Bob. You're at home with Gary Sullivan.
Speaker 6 (35:35):
Help for your home is just a click away at
Garysullivan online dot com.
Speaker 8 (35:40):
This is at home with Gary Sullivan, Gary Solvent here.
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Speaker 8 (36:29):
Hey Gary, Salvin Here.
Speaker 1 (36:30):
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for every surface, from glass and granite to bathrooms and
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(37:15):
to clean it up, and each Jaws refill saves eighty
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Just refill, reload, and reuse. Jaws makes cleaning powerful, sustainable
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Router Mobile App today from the App Store, Google Play
or from rotorrouter dot com. Well, of course we're talking
(38:22):
a little home improvement. Why not. This is the time
of year many of us get outside and tackle some
of those projects. We've certainly talked a lot about decks today,
and quite honestly, there's a lot of things that we
talk about that really can't talk enough about because if
you're going to invest in a product or something along
(38:43):
those lines, I mean, stuff isn't cheap in a lot
of cases, plus your time, you want to make sure
you're successful. And I try and do my best to
educate you along those lines. And if you have questions
about that, feel free to join us. Our phone number
is eight hundred eighty two three eight two five five.
Let's go to Doug, Doug, welcome, Hey, thank.
Speaker 7 (39:05):
You very much.
Speaker 3 (39:06):
Let's go back outside to the driveway. We're getting ready
to it's time to put the crack sailor the joint
sealer in and take all the all tar out. And
we went and bought the right stuff. But the puzzle
we have is it's like four slabs, but along the
place where it connects to the garage there looks like,
(39:28):
instead of tar, which is what they did originally, there's
this kind of gray looking rubbery stuff that doesn't look
like calking, and we don't know.
Speaker 7 (39:37):
What that is.
Speaker 3 (39:38):
So we went to Low's and got all this stuff,
but we're like, what's that extra thick rubbery piece that
kind of sits in between the garage floor and the
outside driveway And I don't know what that is. So
I thought, hey, Gary will know.
Speaker 1 (39:53):
Well there's a couple things. I mean, there's a lot
of things that are used in there. When you say
it's that makes me think of eu athane, like a
liquid euthane, something that comes in a clocking tube which
has tremendous adhesion and great flexibility.
Speaker 3 (40:12):
Well, we got some of that to put in between
the slabs, but this is a lot wider, and I
didn't know if it was just a lot more of
that could be, whether it was something different.
Speaker 1 (40:22):
Yeah, I'm gonna guess. You know, how big of an
area do you got? Is it three quarters of an
inch wide? Uh?
Speaker 3 (40:30):
No, it's probably that gap is more like a quarter
inch wide. It's it's no, it's more of a half
inch wide. The rest of it's like a quarter inch
or whatever. And like say, the slabs are moving and
where we bought that back, I rat foam and you know,
to put it there and going to put the your fate,
But this doesn't. This looks different. That looked like the
rest of the seiler. That's why we didn't know if
(40:51):
it was just the same stuff and more of it
or whether it was something else.
Speaker 1 (40:55):
Well I'm betting it's the same stuff, but I can't see.
Speaker 7 (40:59):
It so well.
Speaker 3 (41:00):
No, Well they use tar on everything else in the
old days when they go to to the nineteen fifty
nine house, and then they may have just bought that
for just in between the which makes no sense to me.
Speaker 1 (41:11):
Why that failed.
Speaker 3 (41:15):
Yes, it's sailing and this is a weird house where
it was an outside garage and they build a basement
under it. And so water now leaks between that gap.
So we're trying to seal up that so it won't
damage this stuff that we store below the garage. That's
what we keep the lawnmower and stuff, because it's actually
separate from the house.
Speaker 1 (41:33):
Yeah yeah, yeah, yeah. The only way you're going to
repair that is you got to get down old no
matter what it is, You've got to get that out
of there, you know. I mean you're going to have
to uh scrape or hook hook knife it and get
(41:53):
that out of there, cleaning up the best you can. Again,
the way it was actually installed is proper. You said
you put like a backer rod in there, which is good.
Otherwise you're just kind of wasting money. And I try
and get that below the level of the lowest slab
(42:13):
down about three ace of an inch, and then again
taking a self leveling you're a thane crack filler, which
requires an industrial strength calking gun because it's thick, and
just get a good beat of that on the surface,
even if you have to put a couple of beads
(42:35):
to get it to flow where it levels itself out
and fills that gap up. You should seal that up
real good. There's nothing that's going to last longer. And
that I can tell you that.
Speaker 3 (42:47):
One other quick questions. Over time, the four slabs have
kind of leaned. They used to park when I look
at an old picture of the house on Google, and
they used to park an RV out front. So a
couple of are starting to lean, uh, and then it
goes kind of down of an embanquet. Is that something
we can do ourselves to kind of level that back up?
(43:08):
Or is that a call somebody else that can.
Speaker 1 (43:10):
Yeah, that's to call that money. So what you're looking
for there is what they call a slab jacker. Somebody
does slab jacking or mud jacking. They're called different things
in different parts of the country. They'll come out, even
concrete leveling. There's a place a one concrete leveling, it'll
come out, drill holes in there and they'll pump us
cementatious grouting underneath, and it'll kind of fill in those
(43:34):
those pockets because you know, soil settles and limestone breaks
down and you get small sinkholes. We only hear about
the real big ones on the news, and it just
fills in all that under pressure and lifts that slab.
So you have a positive grade and okay, no, no,
(43:54):
it's not do it yourself thing at all.
Speaker 3 (43:56):
Okay, all right, well, thank you you have answered my question.
We appreciate it.
Speaker 1 (44:01):
Very good. You bet take care, bye bye. Another thing
just to kind of interject there, if those slabs that
are tilting is also kind of one of the same
slabs that butts up against the garage floor, that correction
may be made by the slabjacker to put enough pressure
(44:23):
under there and do enough pill where you tilt that
up and literally scoot that slab half an inch and
tighten it up right there. It's amazing. I've literally stood
on some of those slabs while they were being lifted,
and they can nuzzle those things up, I mean absolutely
to where it was originally. It's an amazing process and
(44:45):
probably about twenty five percent of the cost of having
at replaced, so well worth it. All right, coming up, Bob, David, Frank, Chris,
and we'll continue. You're at home with Carry Sullivan.
Speaker 6 (45:13):
Take said right with a call to Gary Sullivan at
one eight hundred eight two three talk.
Speaker 8 (45:19):
This is at Home with Gary Sullivan.
Well the weekends upon us Welcome You're at Home with
Gerry Salvin. This hours brought to you by Easy Breathe.
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sponsoring this hour of at Home with Gary Sullivan boy,
(01:15):
just even talking about the Easy Breathe and this time
of year, a lot of heat, a lot of humidity.
Ventilation inside our home so so important and we'll get
to that this weekend because that's a big concern to
a lot of people this time of year. And you
go down the basement, you get near a cross space
and you just smell that dampness and that moldy smell.
(01:40):
It probably is molden. We need to talk about getting
that cleaned up to have a healthy home. All right.
Our phone numbers eight hundred eight two three eight two
five five and Dwight you kick us off this hour.
Speaker 2 (01:56):
Well, the question I have is I we had a
a small basement and the paint had peeled at pete
was peeling, and I have scraped off all the paint
off of it that I can't get off of it
and everything, and it's got some small cracks in it.
And what we wanted to do find out what we
needed to do with the cracks. And we wanted to
(02:18):
uh put a some kind of a liquid or moisture
barrier on the floor, uh you know, to see it.
You know, I have never had no, have had no
uh visible uh water in the basement at all. So
with I just wanted what we needed to do to it.
Speaker 1 (02:40):
So these cracks are we talking on the floor, were
talking on the walls.
Speaker 2 (02:48):
They're on the floor. They're not real, They're not very wide,
you know, they probably uh be uh maybe one eighth
or less. Uh And they're just a small cracks you
know in the flower. The previous paint you know, went
down in the cracks, you know, and covered them up.
(03:08):
But we were just wanting what we needed to do
that now, just do anything to the cracks or just
let the paint or whatever put in there. You'd like
to put some kind of moisture barrier paint on the floor.
Speaker 1 (03:23):
Yeah, yeah, the the paint would probably do it for you.
If they're just the size of like a pencil tip, there's.
Speaker 2 (03:34):
A product they're not very big at all.
Speaker 1 (03:36):
Yeah, there's a product called dry Lock. Been around for
a long time, and for years they did not make
dry Lock for floors. They do now, and that's the
one i'd recommend. When you say, most floor paints actually breathe,
(03:56):
so they're not vapor barriers, but the dry Lock is
a total vapor barrier product. And like I said, now
they make one for floors. I think it comes in colors.
I don't know it comes in clear, but I think
it comes in colors also.
Speaker 2 (04:16):
Yeah, it's the course I didn't get whenever I was
scraping the paint off of it. You know, it was loose,
you know, with a scraper, you know, the thing I
didn't get. It's sort of a gray colored paint, you know,
and everything, but I didn't get all of it off yet.
I got all of it off that I could scrape
off with a scraper, you know, and everything. So I
(04:36):
just you know, I wouldn't want to put a clear
paint on it. I want to put some kind of
a color on it.
Speaker 1 (04:43):
Right. Well, like I said, most of your paints for
floors allow it to breathe, so they are not a
moisture barrier paint. Okay, just see you know that. Another
thing when you're using a moisture barrier paint or a
water proofing paint, one of the first things that will
(05:05):
have in the directions is in order to get the
full benefits of a moisture barrier waterproof paint is you
got to remove the paint. You got to remove all
the paint, and that may be difficult to do. You
can do it mechanically, you can do it chemically, so
(05:25):
you can either grind it off or use paint strippers
to remove it. And then you can you know, make
your choices on the type of paint. So again, the
dry Lock would be the only one that I know
that actually is a non breathing moisture barrier waterproof paint.
(05:46):
And like I said, they do have one for floors.
It's d R Y l O K is the name
of the product.
Speaker 2 (05:56):
Would you do that spell out again?
Speaker 1 (05:58):
D r y l o K.
Speaker 2 (06:02):
B R Why D is in dry d.
Speaker 1 (06:06):
R y l o K d r y l o
K Yeah, with the D is in dry.
Speaker 2 (06:19):
Yeah d r y yeah okay, dry lock yeah down.
Speaker 1 (06:25):
All right, But check that out you go.
Speaker 2 (06:29):
Where would you go about getting this? When you get this,
get a paint store or a lot.
Speaker 1 (06:34):
Of paint stores carry it. Big box stores carry it,
independent hardware stores. It's a it's a it's a pretty
prevalent product. You can find it around. But when I
say that, make sure you're getting the one for the floors, because,
uh they've they've had a product probably for eighty ninety
years for walls, and just recently they've started with a
(06:55):
floor paint on dry Lock.
Speaker 2 (06:57):
Well. I believe I may have may have used this,
uh on maybe on the wall up about two foot
on the wall in that basement already it's white, but
um it was I think I think that can that
I've got he's got. I think he's got dry Lock
road on it.
Speaker 1 (07:16):
It probably does. It's probably the number one waterproofing paint
for foundation walls. But like I said, it's a separate
product for floors. It'll say floors, Okay, all right, you bet,
take care? Bye bye, all right, and uh let's go
to uh Bill, Bill welcome.
Speaker 2 (07:35):
Hello? How are you?
Speaker 1 (07:36):
Yes, sir? Fine?
Speaker 3 (07:37):
Thanks, I'm I'm building a new deck pressure treated lumber.
Speaker 1 (07:42):
Okay?
Speaker 3 (07:43):
When when can I stain that?
Speaker 1 (07:48):
Uh?
Speaker 4 (07:49):
And my the other question is, I've heard you talk
about dry you were talking about the FI and is
that is THEFI strictly a website purchase or do they
carry it someplace else?
Speaker 1 (08:03):
Do it best hardware stores carry it?
Speaker 5 (08:07):
Okay?
Speaker 1 (08:08):
So do it centers if you got any of those,
So they carry it. That's about the only place you
can do it outside of the websites. But do it
Best carries it? So that's the million dollar question. Yeah,
the million dollar question is when? When? When? And unfortunately
(08:30):
there's no straight answer. Number one, we don't know how
long that pressure treat wood's been sitting in a store
or whether it was just pressure treated. It's going to
take time for the sun to kind of bake that
moisture out of there. You you probably had people tell
you a year. You probably had people tell you six months.
(08:50):
You probably had people tell you two weeks, and all
those could be correct, but there's really only one way
to tell, and that is you to stain that when
that wood can accept as much stain into the fibers
as you can. And the only way to know that
is to take a tablespoon of water and put it
(09:13):
on that wood and give it about thirty to forty
seconds to soak into that wood. And when it does that,
it can accept the stain. If it stays there and
beads up, there's no room in that wood fiber to
accept that stain. Okay, to compound that, the defy is
probably one of the best stains for decks, but it's
(09:37):
a water base. It's it's an acrylic, it's a latex,
which holds up better against the sun, but its penetration
is a little more difficult to get it into the
wood fibers compared to an oil. So if you get
to defy, I mean, I'm not telling you not to.
(09:58):
It's great stain, but you want to use the preparation
is really critical. You want to clean that even though
you know it's just you know, whether it's two weeks
or six months, you still want to clean that with
their deck cleaner. And then they have a deck brightener,
(10:18):
and a deck brightener is an oxalic acid which opens
up the pores of the wood, allowing the acrylic deck
stains to penetrate deeper. It's kind of like use a
meradic acid for concrete, okay. And and oxalic acid is
a very very mild mild acid. I mean it's you're
not gonna hurt anything, but it just opens up those fibers.
(10:41):
It allows to absorb that stain even better. So those
are the two preparation products you want to use, and
I kind of recommend them for all deck stains. I mean,
why not. You want to get that deck stain into
that wood the best you can. But you know, I
would say if it were me, I'd probably be looking
(11:02):
at staining that if it accepts the water. You know,
maybe around labor day.
Speaker 5 (11:10):
Okay.
Speaker 3 (11:11):
Now, when I was on Defia's website, they have a
product that's an oil and a water mixture.
Speaker 1 (11:17):
Right combo, right, And that's the newer product that's a
modified oil, and that's probably where a lot of deck
stains are going right now. It's an alcat acrylic and
an alcat acrylic has It's kind of weird because it's
oil and water mixed and we know that doesn't mix,
but it does, right, and so you get the benefit
(11:40):
of a little better penetration, yet you still get the
benefits of the acrylic and you know, so yeah, that
would probably be when you said to DeFi I'm still
used to just talking about their water based acrylics, and
they do there's all kinds of tests. It gives you
(12:00):
an extra season or two worth of life, and the
the modified alka acrylics kind of fall in that same, uh,
you know, same parallel. But I'd still do that prep
work like I talked about deck Breightener's.
Speaker 5 (12:18):
Okay, all right, well, thank you very much, appreciate.
Speaker 1 (12:21):
Your You're quite welcome. Thank you, bye bye. So how
do you use that? It's really just a mixture that's
put on the surface, allowed to sit for about ten minutes,
agitate and rinse off, allowed to dry. All right, Well,
continue with your calls. You're at home with Gary Sullivan.
Speaker 6 (12:38):
Solon shootings to your home improvement are as easy as
calling one eight eight two three talk this. He is
at home with Gary Sullivan.
Speaker 2 (13:03):
Ah.
Speaker 1 (13:03):
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(13:24):
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(13:45):
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(15:36):
back in it we go. Twenty three minutes after the
top of the are talking a little home improvement. And
by the way, the modified alcat acrylic by defy a
couple changes in that they still make the defy. I
think it's called essential. That's the straight acrylic. The alcat
(15:56):
acrylic is called Ultra semi transparent. The akrll ACHE is
a two code system and the Ultra can be a
one or a two code system, so there's some flexibility there.
The first code will penetrate in deeper, so it'll be
(16:17):
a flat finish. Your second coat will add a deeper
color and a little bit of a sheene. Both of
them rainproof in like four hours, so that's one of
the advantages again of the modified alcat acrylics. And again
it's got those zinc and nanoparticles, so it's kind of
like a sunscreen for your deck. That's why it doesn't
(16:39):
fade quite as quickly as some of the other products
on the market. All Right, just kind of wanted to
give you an update there. Kind of forget about that
one when I was talking to him. It's relatively news
in the last year. Let's go to Jay. Jay. Welcome, Well,
I have.
Speaker 5 (16:54):
A question about concrete patching. I have a sidewalk four
to eight years ago. It's just regular concrete. Nothing, no
stamp or nothing. Long story short, it's long. Where they
cut the relief cut, it's cracked out quite a bit, okay.
And there's also other spots in it that's have putt
(17:17):
marks like that. Try and figure out what to do
with it other than ripping it out and pouring again.
Speaker 1 (17:25):
Well, it depends on the one I'm most concerned about
is where the relief joints are. And you say it's
cracked pretty bad. Yeah, there's patching cements, but they have limitations.
In other words, if you're patching over a concrete surface
that's cracked, obviously, stability is an issue. And the thickness
(17:47):
you can put a patch on over the surface is
like a half inch. And that's the Quick Creek.
Speaker 5 (17:54):
Mmm, Quick Creek Concrete.
Speaker 1 (17:57):
Finyl concrete patcher, yes, okay, has a half inch limitation.
It's great for spawling where the surface is popped off
and pot marks. It does a great job. It's got
a bombing agent in it. It'll stick to the concrete.
But if you got a whole bunch of areas that
(18:19):
are cracked and you're gonna put it over the cracked area,
I don't know how well that's going to last.
Speaker 5 (18:27):
The only area I have that that's cracks per se
is along that same line, and it's it's cracked about
maybe three each of an inch deep, and it's come
out growing uh spots. It's up there about three inches wide. Now,
oh my, the rest is just puck marks.
Speaker 1 (18:46):
Yeah, the puck marks will do great with the vinyl
concrete patcher for the crack. I'll tell you what I
would really take a look at is take a look
at some of your eurothane self leveling crack fillers, and
even at a three inch mark, if you put in
some sand in there, kind of put it as a
(19:06):
filler and then run that self leveling your thing crack filler.
On top of that, you got to get an industrial
clocking gun. It's thick, it's hard to get out of
the tube. But I'll tell you what that stuff's good.
That that would be perfect for that because he's got
great adhesion, great flexibility. If you just put concrete in there,
(19:28):
that flexing will just crack that concrete up. So again,
vinyl concrete patcher for the you know, pot marks, and
then the self leveling your thing crack filler for the
cracks itself in the uneven part all right, thank you much, Jay,
I appreciate it. We'll take a break. We'll come back
and get your calls. You're at home with Gary Sulivan's.
Speaker 6 (19:52):
Okay, it's the weekend and you have fixed questions. Get
Gary a call and eight two three talk. This is
at home with Gary's Ellivans.
Speaker 1 (20:16):
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(22:52):
All right, let's get back to work. What do you
say You're at home with Gary Selvin talking about your
home projects or maintenance or repair. Feel free to gramble
line and we'll go to Rose. Rose, Welcome, Good morning morning.
Speaker 7 (23:05):
About two years ago, on a full sun deck, we
replaced the pressure treated boards on the floor and properly
cured it and cleaned it and put their semi transparent
stain and sailor which apparently didn't penetrate it. Apparently has
some problems with that, and so now it needs to
(23:26):
be taken off. There's peeling, laking, sort of a black
residue coming up from the floor. So I wanted to
know chemically remove it, power wor sufficient?
Speaker 1 (23:38):
And what did well? Chemically removing it would would be
the best Rose. So is this a solid color stain
or is it a semi transparent stain? Semi transparent, semi transparent,
and and you'd let it season. How long did it take? Again,
there's no right or wrong way, but how long was it? Not?
Speaker 7 (24:03):
Very long after it was applied, so sort of a
black residue came up through the floorboards and that could
be moorshed off with the groom in a hoose. But
now it's all peeling, and even.
Speaker 2 (24:18):
On the railings.
Speaker 1 (24:20):
I don't know what that black residu would be. I
don't know either, coming up through the boards. That's kind
of creepy.
Speaker 7 (24:28):
And it's a post on deck, so it isn't.
Speaker 1 (24:33):
Yeah, So to answer your question, I mean it's I
would use a regular, you know, deck stained stripper. It's
kind of a liquid or a gel. I'm sure Bear
makes one, and you can start out if you want
by using a pressure washer. Just don't get too crazy
(24:55):
with it because you can start making that wood fuzz
up and do some damage to the wood. But if
you want to useful use I'm sorry.
Speaker 7 (25:08):
What PSI would you use?
Speaker 1 (25:09):
I would say under three thousand, you know, probably twenty
four hundred would be ideal with a fifteen degree tip,
maybe twenty five degree tip. Let's make it twenty four
hundred PSI with a twenty five degree tip about eighteen
inches away from the deck boards. See how much to use.
Speaker 7 (25:29):
I'm sorry talking over you.
Speaker 1 (25:31):
I was just saying we'll see how much we can
take up. It's it's odd that it's peeling because it's
a semi transparent so there should be you know, if
the wood was dry and we put on you know,
not too much, you know, where we let it puddle,
there should be nothing on the surface. It's a semi
(25:53):
transparent means it's one hundred percent penetration into the wood fibers.
If that were the case, it couldn't peel.
Speaker 7 (26:00):
So according to the Internet, there's a couple of videos
and people have had problems with this. The Bear can
says to use the Bear wood stain and finish stripper
and then use the all in one wood cleaner neutralizer.
But I'm a little reluctant to use a Bear product.
Speaker 1 (26:18):
Well, yeah, I think the advice they gave you there
is correct. Though. By using that brightener or wood cleaner
that you said, that's that exotic acid, that's a real
good prep to open up the wood fibers. So I'm
kind of recommending this. I kind of recommend those same
(26:40):
kind of products, maybe a different brand, but normally brand.
You know, Bear has a good product. Why that isn't
penetrating into the wood? I don't know, sometimes it's not
just the product, quite honestly, I mean people will oversee overseal,
or people won't use a brightener to open up the
(27:01):
wood fibers. And then I'm not saying it's your fault.
I'm just saying that's sometimes you know, it can still
get bad press just because application's difficult.
Speaker 7 (27:15):
After it gets totally cleaned and prepared to put another
sealer on it, what would you recommend that you fire or.
Speaker 1 (27:25):
Yeah, I mean I'd like to defy. I mean there's
a lot of good ones. I mean I've recommended the
bare ones before. Do you know what type of it?
Was it an oil? Was it an alcat acrylic, which
is oil and water or was it a water base
semi transparent?
Speaker 7 (27:47):
Well I got the label. It says fair Premium solid
color Waterproofing stain and sealer All weather Protection.
Speaker 1 (27:56):
Okay, Well, first of all, so that isn't a semi
TRA's parent. That's a solid color stain. So that makes
sense why it's peeling. And it also so yeah, so
solid color stains will sometimes have problems sticking or penetrating
(28:17):
because it's a film. It's like paint. And if that
wood is not totally seasoned properly, or those wood fibers
aren't opened up properly. A solid color stain can be
challenged to not hold up. So now it makes sense.
So as a solid color stain, yeah, use your pressure
(28:39):
washer trying to remove as much of that off as
you can, and then you're gonna have to go with
the stained stripper and your call on the on the brand.
They're all fairly pretty much the same. It's a gel
or a liquid that goes on there. You let it
sit preferably, you do it in the cool part of
(29:02):
the day to keep that stripper moist, and then you
can use your pressure washer. Also, you can put the
stripper on in a deck cleaning brush and remove it
that way and then hose it and rinse, give it
a few days to dry off. And then again, if
you're going to use a solid color stain, just be mindful.
(29:28):
That's it like a paint. So we got to make
sure that that wood is really dry. I talked about
using a dollup of water on there, making sure it
penetrates into the wood, and then come back and use
a deck brightener where it's going to open up the
wood fibers. That's the only way I would prep a
deck if I was going to use a solid color stain.
Speaker 7 (29:52):
Well, if you didn't put a solid color stain on,
what would you put your seal it, you'd.
Speaker 1 (29:58):
Use a semi transp parent, But it too has I'm
gonna say, you know, it's not perfect either. So a
semi transparent stain you'll usually get in a sunny location,
you'll usually get two to three years with a service.
Prep work is easy. It's a matter of cleaning it
(30:20):
and reapplying it. A solid color stain, if you know,
if it penetrates and it's you know, properly applied, you
should probably get three to five years with a service.
So it's gonna last longer if it bites onto the
wood than a semi transparent, and it's gonna look different.
It's not gonna look like paint. It's gonna look like
(30:42):
stained wood.
Speaker 7 (30:49):
Well, I think you've answered my question.
Speaker 1 (30:51):
Thank you very good, Thank you much. Take care. So
we got to go over this and mean this because
there is is this whole deck thing. I've been talking
about stain in decks for probably forty years, and it's changed,
it's evolved, and I think it just confuses a lot
of people they maybe aren't really sure exactly what they're buying.
(31:16):
And I started to show off today saying we're going
to talk about that. So now is a good time
to talk about this. Number One. You have basically basically
two types. You have a semi transparent stain which looks
like stained woodwork inside your home. You can you can
see the grain highlights and it's kind of a it's
(31:41):
not a cover up, it's not a film. It penetrates
into the wood fiber. The sun it beats it up
faster because it's not a coating. There's not as many
solids in it. So, like I said, couple two to
three years, that's good in a sunny location. A solid
(32:01):
color stain looks just like paint. And when you have
pressure treated wood that was infused with chemicals and waters
and then you have a water based solid color stain,
you got to help open up those wood fibers. And
that's why I'm talking about the deck brighten or the
exolic acid. And I'm not I'm not pushing you one
(32:25):
way or the other. There's people that want to use
pressure tree or a semi transparent stain. They don't want
a painted look. On their deck. In fact, they'll look
at you like you're crazy if you suggest it. They
want that natural look, but you gotta know it's gonna
last two to three years. Then there's other people, you know,
(32:47):
they don't care. They don't want to work on that
deck all the time, and they want it to last
as well as they can, and they don't care if
it looks like forest green or whatever color they pick it.
That's what they want. A solid color stae the heck
with the wood grain, and that's fine too. I've recommended
both for different people, and sometimes they think it's a
(33:09):
good idea, and sometimes they go like, no, I don't
want a solid color stainer. No, I don't want to
redo this thing every two to three years. And now
it's gotten a little bit more complicated because now we've
come out with modified acrylic alkits, which I can talk
about that for all day. I think that's a really
really good compromise. That comes in a semi transparent, it
(33:32):
comes in a solid color stain. It bites onto the
wood better than just a pure latex. But the key,
the key is it is in any type of painting
or ceiling is preparation of the wood you know, when
I talked about using a pressure washer and being careful,
(33:53):
I've seen people take pressure washers and not the companies
that do it for their service, but maybe somebody doesn't
really understand pressure washers. They got there with a thirty
five hundred PSI pressure washer with a fifteen degree tip,
and man, yeah, it'll clean it up, and it'll it'll
almost take a thin layer of wood off in some cases,
(34:16):
and it'll create little fuzz and then they do a
semi transparent and that little fuzz is a darker color
than the board and they're upset, of course, but it
was improperly prepped. So if you're I'm not trying to
care everybody about this, but there's a lot to it.
Now there's more choices. When pressure treated wood came out
(34:39):
in the late seventies early eighties, there wasn't even a
deck sealer out there. I think the first people to
introduce it was Thompson's Waterproofing, and it wasn't even a
deck sealer. It was a waterproofing. It was wax and oils,
and it didn't last long. And we've just been through
generations in generaltions and generations of revisions and there's some
(35:05):
really good products out there, really expensive too. I think
that defy uh extreme that I was talking about the
modified Outco Curley. I think that's around seventy five bucks
a gallon one or two code process. All right, Happy
to take your deck calls or any of your home
improven questions. That's what we're here for. Our phone number
(35:27):
is eight hundred eight two three eight two five five. Doug,
you'll be up first, and then we got Chris, Frank
and Bob. You're at home with Gary Sullivan.
Speaker 6 (35:35):
Help for your home is just a click away at
Garysullivan online dot com.
Speaker 8 (35:40):
This is at home with Gary Sullivan, Gary Solvent here.
Speaker 1 (36:00):
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Speaker 8 (36:29):
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(37:15):
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or from rotorrouter dot com. Well, of course we're talking
(38:22):
a little home improvement. Why not. This is the time
of year many of us get outside and tackle some
of those projects. We've certainly talked a lot about decks today,
and quite honestly, there's a lot of things that we
talk about that really can't talk enough about because if
you're going to invest in a product or something along
(38:43):
those lines, I mean, stuff isn't cheap in a lot
of cases, plus your time, you want to make sure
you're successful. And I try and do my best to
educate you along those lines. And if you have questions
about that, feel free to join us. Our phone number
is eight hundred eighty two three eight two five five.
Let's go to Doug, Doug, welcome, Hey, thank.
Speaker 7 (39:05):
You very much.
Speaker 3 (39:06):
Let's go back outside to the driveway. We're getting ready
to it's time to put the crack sailor the joint
sealer in and take all the all tar out. And
we went and bought the right stuff. But the puzzle
we have is it's like four slabs, but along the
place where it connects to the garage there looks like,
(39:28):
instead of tar, which is what they did originally, there's
this kind of gray looking rubbery stuff that doesn't look
like calking, and we don't know.
Speaker 7 (39:37):
What that is.
Speaker 3 (39:38):
So we went to Low's and got all this stuff,
but we're like, what's that extra thick rubbery piece that
kind of sits in between the garage floor and the
outside driveway And I don't know what that is. So
I thought, hey, Gary will know.
Speaker 1 (39:53):
Well there's a couple things. I mean, there's a lot
of things that are used in there. When you say
it's that makes me think of eu athane, like a
liquid euthane, something that comes in a clocking tube which
has tremendous adhesion and great flexibility.
Speaker 3 (40:12):
Well, we got some of that to put in between
the slabs, but this is a lot wider, and I
didn't know if it was just a lot more of
that could be, whether it was something different.
Speaker 1 (40:22):
Yeah, I'm gonna guess. You know, how big of an
area do you got? Is it three quarters of an
inch wide? Uh?
Speaker 3 (40:30):
No, it's probably that gap is more like a quarter
inch wide. It's it's no, it's more of a half
inch wide. The rest of it's like a quarter inch
or whatever. And like say, the slabs are moving and
where we bought that back, I rat foam and you know,
to put it there and going to put the your fate,
But this doesn't. This looks different. That looked like the
rest of the seiler. That's why we didn't know if
(40:51):
it was just the same stuff and more of it
or whether it was something else.
Speaker 1 (40:55):
Well I'm betting it's the same stuff, but I can't see.
Speaker 7 (40:59):
It so well.
Speaker 3 (41:00):
No, Well they use tar on everything else in the
old days when they go to to the nineteen fifty
nine house, and then they may have just bought that
for just in between the which makes no sense to me.
Speaker 1 (41:11):
Why that failed.
Speaker 3 (41:15):
Yes, it's sailing and this is a weird house where
it was an outside garage and they build a basement
under it. And so water now leaks between that gap.
So we're trying to seal up that so it won't
damage this stuff that we store below the garage. That's
what we keep the lawnmower and stuff, because it's actually
separate from the house.
Speaker 1 (41:33):
Yeah yeah, yeah, yeah. The only way you're going to
repair that is you got to get down old no
matter what it is, You've got to get that out
of there, you know. I mean you're going to have
to uh scrape or hook hook knife it and get
(41:53):
that out of there, cleaning up the best you can. Again,
the way it was actually installed is proper. You said
you put like a backer rod in there, which is good.
Otherwise you're just kind of wasting money. And I try
and get that below the level of the lowest slab
(42:13):
down about three ace of an inch, and then again
taking a self leveling you're a thane crack filler, which
requires an industrial strength calking gun because it's thick, and
just get a good beat of that on the surface,
even if you have to put a couple of beads
(42:35):
to get it to flow where it levels itself out
and fills that gap up. You should seal that up
real good. There's nothing that's going to last longer. And
that I can tell you that.
Speaker 3 (42:47):
One other quick questions. Over time, the four slabs have
kind of leaned. They used to park when I look
at an old picture of the house on Google, and
they used to park an RV out front. So a
couple of are starting to lean, uh, and then it
goes kind of down of an embanquet. Is that something
we can do ourselves to kind of level that back up?
(43:08):
Or is that a call somebody else that can.
Speaker 1 (43:10):
Yeah, that's to call that money. So what you're looking
for there is what they call a slab jacker. Somebody
does slab jacking or mud jacking. They're called different things
in different parts of the country. They'll come out, even
concrete leveling. There's a place a one concrete leveling, it'll
come out, drill holes in there and they'll pump us
cementatious grouting underneath, and it'll kind of fill in those
(43:34):
those pockets because you know, soil settles and limestone breaks
down and you get small sinkholes. We only hear about
the real big ones on the news, and it just
fills in all that under pressure and lifts that slab.
So you have a positive grade and okay, no, no,
(43:54):
it's not do it yourself thing at all.
Speaker 3 (43:56):
Okay, all right, well, thank you you have answered my question.
We appreciate it.
Speaker 1 (44:01):
Very good. You bet take care, bye bye. Another thing
just to kind of interject there, if those slabs that
are tilting is also kind of one of the same
slabs that butts up against the garage floor, that correction
may be made by the slabjacker to put enough pressure
(44:23):
under there and do enough pill where you tilt that
up and literally scoot that slab half an inch and
tighten it up right there. It's amazing. I've literally stood
on some of those slabs while they were being lifted,
and they can nuzzle those things up, I mean absolutely
to where it was originally. It's an amazing process and
(44:45):
probably about twenty five percent of the cost of having
at replaced, so well worth it. All right, coming up, Bob, David, Frank, Chris,
and we'll continue. You're at home with Carry Sullivan.
Speaker 6 (45:13):
Take said right with a call to Gary Sullivan at
one eight hundred eight two three talk.
Speaker 8 (45:19):
This is at Home with Gary Sullivan.
At Home with Gary Sullivan News
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