August 10, 2024 • 45 mins
Gary is back spreading his knowledge and wisdom across America.
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Episode Transcript
Available transcripts are automatically generated. Complete accuracy is not guaranteed.
Speaker 1 (00:33):
Well, it's the weekend. Welcome at home with Gary Sullivan.
Thanks for joining me. And by the way, this hour
is brought to you by wet and Forget. Great time
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(01:17):
gotta love the name Miss Muffett's Revenge. All right, let's
get back to the phones here. If you'd like to
join us, grab a line. It's eight hundred eight two
three eight two five five Pam.
Speaker 2 (01:29):
Welcome, Hi, thank you. I have a problem with chimney
that I'm told the brick is spawling, and I've had
some brick replaced, but to have the whole the whole
chimney replaced is exorbitant, and even to replace all of
(01:51):
the brick that has spawled or however you say, it
is quite expensive, and I've already done some. But I
thought I could put maybe mortar to fill in, or
to pay someone to fill in where the brick has spawled.
And I think maybe they didn't know what they were doing,
(02:13):
and the mortar has started just crumbling. I'm wondering if
a product like the patch Rough Patch the Dice product
would work on a vertical surface, or if there's any
way I wouldn't mind just coating the whole thing with concrete.
It's in the back of the house and it's very secluded, woodsy,
(02:37):
and you know people are using concrete for countertops nowadays,
or even an architectural metal. Sometimes contemporary chimneys and fireplaces
are metal. But just something to coat it without having
to rebuild the whole chimney. The structure is fine, it's
it's connected to the house. Well, it's just about a
(02:58):
third of the brick the two story chimney has popped off,
and you know the brick is it looks like brick
eating rats have pete on it.
Speaker 1 (03:09):
Well, basically, yeah, I don't think the rock patch that
I was speaking with Peter Diisch about is going to
work on vertical surfaces. It's it's pretty much for you know,
flat surfaces or a slight. You know, it's more for
her horizontal not vertical. Let me ask you a couple
(03:32):
of questions. Have you had the chimney inspected? You said
it's well connected. Have you checked the liner in the chimney,
maybe the crown washed at the top of the chimney.
Have has it been inspected?
Speaker 2 (03:48):
People have looked at it and even given me they haven't.
They just say it needs to be sealed. And I
thought the last person sealed it, But apparently they're the
people that used a mortar that, you know, just started crumbling.
I thought it was more of a cement mortar.
Speaker 1 (04:08):
Well, I think that's probably people look at it. Yeah,
were they qualified chimney sweeps?
Speaker 2 (04:15):
Yes, yes, yes.
Speaker 1 (04:17):
Here's here's why I ask. I think what you're going
to be looking at, based on what you want to
invest in that chimney is probably a mortar properly applied,
filling in the crevices and patching it that way, and
even maybe looking at painting it that might be an
(04:37):
option also, But I got some other questions, and you know,
there's several things that can make the brick on a
chimney pop off. Certainly one of those is not having
the brick sealed. Now that ships that ship sailed, Okay,
(04:58):
ceiling it is not going to make make it better.
Sealing it may help prevent future problems, but you're still
going to have the problem of the brick that's already fallen.
So that's you know, So the big question is what's
caused that brick to pop? Was it just it was unsealed?
(05:21):
And that's kind of an easy answer, and it's kind
of surprising that they wouldn't take it further.
Speaker 3 (05:26):
That's what I was asking if they were.
Speaker 1 (05:28):
Qualified, because if you see brick popping off a chimney,
I would say, have you sealed it lately? And so
would everybody else, and no, I haven't. Okay, Well, that
can be one issue. The other issue is at the
top of that chimney, there's what they call a crown wash.
A crownwash is a concrete pad that the flu goes
(05:51):
through that connects the liner and the brick of the
chimney together. And like all other crete pads. Over time,
they need to be not only sealed, but probably cracks
repaired in it, and you know, make it as waterproof
(06:11):
as you can, because if water gets down in between
that brick and that liner, it can cause even bigger damage,
which could be a cracked liner, which they also should
have inspected, probably with a video camera to see if
that liner is cracked, because I don't want you to
go spend all this money patching and fixing up this
(06:33):
chimney and then you have somebody come out and they go, well,
you got a crack liner and that's a that's you know,
you got to reline that chimney or take that chimney down.
So we want to have, you know, a thorough inspection
of that chimney rather than just focusing on the brick
that's popping off.
Speaker 2 (06:56):
Okay, right, So the crown washed concrete liner, you call
that a crownwash is a concrete loner liner.
Speaker 1 (07:06):
No, the crownsh is a concrete pad at the top
of the.
Speaker 2 (07:09):
Chimney, concrete pad, okay, okay.
Speaker 1 (07:13):
And then they're inside that chimney. Is the liner that
protects your house if there was a chimney fire from
burning the house. Down. And I'm not saying that it's
a cracked liner. I'm just saying it's a possibility it
could be a cracked liner. Okay, it's a possibility the
crownwash could be in bad shape, which is introducing a
(07:35):
whole lot more water into that brick than an unsealed brick,
is you know, absorbing, gotcha. So what you want to
get is you want to get a c s I,
a Certified chimney sweep that's a.
Speaker 3 (07:50):
Chi Chimney Sweep Institute of America.
Speaker 1 (07:54):
Uh.
Speaker 3 (07:54):
There, they're the ones you want to deal.
Speaker 4 (07:56):
With, Okay, and.
Speaker 2 (08:01):
Just have them do a thorough investigation. I thought it
was just rain water or water you know, freezing and
getting inside the brick and just popping it.
Speaker 1 (08:12):
And it could be, but it could be these other
things too. And if it's these other things, then you
invest in sealing the brick and everything, you're throwing your
money away exactly. So let's let's get a good autopsy.
Speaker 2 (08:25):
On that, Okay, and say an autopsy. You said you
mean to check it out. Okay, say everything's but you've
come to where you want to you know, resurface and
make the brick, you know, fill back out. Because it's
got you know, gnawed, w you know, it's got pop,
(08:47):
it's popped, and it's rugged and half the brick's missing.
Do you is there a concrete material that you could
just you know, put on that.
Speaker 1 (08:57):
It would be mortar.
Speaker 3 (08:58):
It would be mortar.
Speaker 1 (09:00):
It would be more with a bonding agent in it.
And you know, again depending on how qualified they're doing.
You got to make sure there's a bonding agent applied
to the mortar mix so it adheres to the brick.
You want to make sure that there's no powdery or
oxidation of that brick which is causing it not to stick.
You want to make sure that the brick is wetted
down when you're applying the mortar. It's going to suck
(09:22):
the moisture out of it and it's going to fall
off in two years. So you know, we just want
to make sure it's done right.
Speaker 3 (09:29):
But it would be patched.
Speaker 1 (09:31):
There's other people that would put you know, I don't
know if chimney's used with a fireplace or anything along
those lines, but you know, you can encase it, you
can trim it out. You just got to make sure
all the components are functioning as it's supposed to be functioning.
I mean, you could trim it out with a sighting,
you could, you could do all kinds of things. That's
why you got to get somebody in there that's giving
(09:53):
you options, not just answering your question about the you know,
and when you ask them, don't.
Speaker 3 (09:58):
Even bring up the bricks.
Speaker 1 (10:00):
Hey, I want to have my I want to have
my chimney clean and inspected.
Speaker 2 (10:05):
Okay. And when you mentioned siding, is there a metal siding?
Assume every assuming everything else is okay.
Speaker 1 (10:12):
Well, yeah, they'll give you all kinds of options.
Speaker 3 (10:14):
They'll give you all kinds of options.
Speaker 1 (10:16):
You got to let them know that they're there to
clean and give you an inspection on your chimney. And
then if there's a problem that they see, they're going
to give you quotes on how to fix it. And
you can bring up the brick at that point whenever
you want. But let's let's make sure that thing's in
(10:36):
good shape perpect.
Speaker 2 (10:39):
That's that's something I hadn't thought of. Thank you so much.
I appreciate it and I enjoy your show.
Speaker 1 (10:45):
Thank you much. Pam. All right, let's take a little break. Greg,
you'll be uh up. First, we have Michelle Edwin John
you can join us. You're at home with Gary.
Speaker 5 (10:54):
Solid weekends, I mean a never writing list of things
to do around your home, get help and one a
one hundred and eighty two three talk. You're at home
with Gary's sullivantor.
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(13:38):
it we go at Home with Gary Salvin. By the way,
if you missed Peter Disch talking about a wonderful concrete
patch called rock Patch, you can pick up that podcast
wherever you get your podcast, iHeart app would be one.
Just type in at Home with Gary Salvin podcast.
Speaker 2 (13:58):
It is available now, by the way.
Speaker 1 (14:01):
Okay, and it'll show up in the for you to
take a listen to a lot of really good information,
a very unique type of product for resurfacing concrete and
repairing dings and dents.
Speaker 3 (14:14):
All right, let's go to Greg. Greg, welcome, how.
Speaker 4 (14:18):
You doing, long time listener, appreciate your show. Thank you,
And this could be repetitive because I just turned to
you on after your Ditsch guest. Okay, I've got a
garage floor concrete patch I've got to do. It's approximately
nine inches in diameter and the maximum depth is one inch.
Speaker 3 (14:39):
Okay?
Speaker 4 (14:40):
Is that product? And I'll go back and listen to
the podcast. You have to repeat everything. But is that
product highly recommended for that type of patch?
Speaker 1 (14:46):
Well, it is now, I don't know. I didn't ask
what the depth of that application can be. But it
did talk about filling cracks, We did talk about repairing, spawling.
Some of the cementatious products you can only apply a
half inch thick. I'm not sure about the rock patch.
(15:11):
The rock patch is superior of any cementatious patching because
it's not it's not cementatious, it's not a concrete. So
I would go to their website and it'll have the
instructions and just see what the thickness is. It won't
be thinner than a half inch, but it can be
(15:32):
that thin because they're also coating it over the surface
of the concrete. So just double check it's a dish
Daichcoatings dot Com.
Speaker 4 (15:43):
Okay, I will do that and hopefully that product's great
for the one in step. And if there is product,
that's when you say half inch, you mean half inch
total or half inch repetitive steps.
Speaker 3 (15:55):
Repetitive steps.
Speaker 1 (15:56):
So the other product, and I've recommended this one for
forty years, it's just you know, they'll build a better
mouse trap thing it's called Vinyl concrete patcher.
Speaker 3 (16:09):
It's made by quick Crete.
Speaker 6 (16:12):
Right.
Speaker 1 (16:12):
It is a sementatious coating, So it's a powder that
you mix with water. Let's stand for about three minutes
in the bucket, and you apply that in half inch increments.
Speaker 6 (16:23):
Gotcha?
Speaker 4 (16:24):
Okay, all right, I appreciate. I'll check Diytsch's website first
and if that's applicable.
Speaker 1 (16:31):
Sounds good, I'll do the same.
Speaker 3 (16:33):
Thanks.
Speaker 1 (16:33):
All right, thanks everybody. All right, we'll go to Edwin. Edwin, welcome,
good day Gary.
Speaker 7 (16:42):
How are you doing?
Speaker 1 (16:43):
Yes?
Speaker 3 (16:43):
Fine, thank you.
Speaker 6 (16:46):
Uh.
Speaker 7 (16:46):
Two quick questions. First, Uh, when I was replacing the
night two guard two door garage gas at the bottom seel,
I got that done. I've also been looking at this
for some weeks and I have a gap between the
where the garage floor ends to be, where the garage
(17:09):
door is at, and where the driveway begins. I have
about a gap there of you know the garage door,
the garage driver lab.
Speaker 8 (17:20):
I have a gap of about three quarter maybe seven
eighths okay, about two inches deep, and you know the
width of the garage which is about sixteen feet.
Speaker 7 (17:31):
So can I fill that in or should I? Because
I hate the lot of water going in there and
washing away underneath you.
Speaker 1 (17:38):
Yeah, so what you want to do is you want
to clean that out the best you can, especially if
there's grass, weeds, different things growing up in there. Clean
it out. Get a shop back, suck a dirt up,
and you know, I need debris that's in there. Then
get what they call backer rod, which is almost like
a foam roping that can be pressed down into the
(18:00):
ad and once it's pressed down into it, you push
it down to about three ace of an inch to
the surface of the slab, and then you use a
euthane self leveling crack filler comes in a cocking tube.
You'll need an industrial cocking gun and you just put
(18:20):
a bed of that euthane self leveling crack filler. Quick
creep makes it and that'll seal it up, and you
know that'll still flex a little bit and eventually that
calking will fail. But usually you can get five years
out of it or so unless it's really moving. And
then the way to eliminate it it's called cock saber.
Speaker 6 (18:46):
Cock favor.
Speaker 1 (18:48):
Or you could fill it up with sand too. I
mean you could fill it up to three ace of
an inch with sand and then just put that euthane
self leveling crack filler on top.
Speaker 7 (18:59):
Okay, And the second thing was I'm a home inspector
and I'm finding a lot of homes here that are
needing right on.
Speaker 1 (19:12):
Yeah, I'll tell you what ed. When I'm going to
have to cut you off, let me put you on
hold and we'll get you on the other side of
the half hour. We got a hard break I gotta take,
so sit tight and we'll get that other question answered.
You're at home with Gary Sullivan.
Speaker 5 (19:39):
If you don't have a list of things to do
around the house, Gary will find something for you.
Speaker 4 (19:43):
At what eight hundred eighty.
Speaker 5 (19:45):
Two three talk you're at home with Gary Sullivan.
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(22:30):
three minutes after the top. The hour lines are open
for you. It's eight hundred eight two three eight two
five five all right, Edwin, Sorry about that. I had
a hard break. I had to take.
Speaker 6 (22:41):
Quite afright.
Speaker 7 (22:42):
I understand you got to pay the bills as well.
Speaker 1 (22:44):
There you go, the.
Speaker 9 (22:48):
Uh and thanks for answering that first part. I'll look
into that right away. The second part is that I
was telling you I'm a home inspector, and I keep
telling these people a lot of them I'm not saying
don't believe me or anything, but I could see a
lot of homes don't have radiation mitigation systems. Radio mitigation
(23:09):
systems on a lot of homes, and if you look
on the map, I mean you could just look on
the website Ohio website that a large portion of Ohio
and Pennsylvania is really heavy with that. And with a
lot of people quitting smoke in and a lot of
people not beginning to smoke nowadays, you're still seeing that
(23:31):
the lung cancer rate isn't going down as fast as
it should and it's because of RADA, because that right
now is the second most cause of lung cancer. So
I just thought, maybe while you're well, I got John.
I don't have to be on the line right now,
but while I got John, if you can maybe insinuate
(23:52):
how important that is to have it at least tested,
because when I have I'm not certified for that, but
I do subcontract that out, so to have them do
it and then give them the choice of having the
mitigation system put in or not, especially now that people
are uh finishing, finishing up remodeling their their basements. Nowadays,
(24:16):
they have a little bit more room, you know, for
the kids.
Speaker 1 (24:19):
Right And you bring up a really good point. And
I want to tell you, every time I talk about
radon and the consequences of right on, it's amazing to me.
I will get hundreds of emails tell me I'm crazy,
and I'm not crazy. The the data is there that
(24:40):
shows it, and I've had multiple experts on that. Also
talk about indoor home pollution which is now five times
higher than outdoor pollution, and that's by the EPA.
Speaker 7 (24:57):
Yeah, because homes are tighter now.
Speaker 1 (25:00):
They're tighter now exactly. And you know, I talk about
in air exchange units for homes, and it's not a
radon mitigation system because the radon's in the home and
then it's exchanging it out. A radon mitigation system eliminates
the radar from ever entering the home. So though air
(25:24):
exchange unit is very helpful and it may very well
minimize the consequences, it's a problem. And it's a problem
that's you know, grown mainly because our homes are tighter.
And there's regions you mentioned Ohio, Pennsylvania, you go out
(25:44):
west in the Colorado's and states like that same thing.
I mean, it's very high and yeah, get it tested
and just see where you are and then decide what
you want to do. I have people call me all
the time. They ask me how to cheat on the test.
If I open all the window, will will register? I says,
(26:05):
maybe not, but why would you do that?
Speaker 10 (26:09):
Oh?
Speaker 1 (26:09):
Wow, so hey, I appreciate that. That's that's good conversation.
Speaker 3 (26:15):
I certainly appreciate Edwin.
Speaker 4 (26:17):
You're welcome.
Speaker 9 (26:18):
Thank you for your time.
Speaker 1 (26:19):
You bet you take care all right. Thirty seven minutes
after the top of they are talking home improvement. Eight
hundred eighty two three eight two five five, grab a line.
We have Michelle. Michelle.
Speaker 2 (26:30):
Welcome, Hi Gary, thanks for taking my call.
Speaker 1 (26:36):
You bet, Gary, Yes, I can.
Speaker 10 (26:40):
Okay. I have a question about a ceramic tile floor.
It's on the first floor. There's no basement underneath, and
there is a clear white liquid that's cheeping up through
the ground and it drives to a crusty way substance.
(27:01):
Do you have any idea what that might be?
Speaker 1 (27:05):
My guess is it's what they call efflorescence and holds
the home.
Speaker 10 (27:12):
Oh, probably thirty forty years old.
Speaker 3 (27:16):
How long has it been going on?
Speaker 10 (27:20):
About three months now?
Speaker 1 (27:21):
Okay, okay, so let me explain what efflorescence is. It's
gonna be hard to determine it, quite honestly. Efflorescence is
water is reacting with the grouting or the concrete slab
(27:42):
that is underneath the grouting. So they're both sementatious.
Speaker 3 (27:48):
Right, the grouting and the slab, And there is.
Speaker 1 (27:51):
Lime and salts in that concrete. And if it stays
wet periodically, or stays wet period those salts in that
lime in that concrete or grout I use the word bloom.
Speaker 3 (28:12):
I don't know if that's correct or not.
Speaker 1 (28:14):
But what it does is that water reacts with those
and it starts a white, hard crystallization that works its
way through the concrete. You see it a lot on
concrete basement walls, and you can clean it off, but
it'll keep coming back. So my one concern is if
(28:39):
you're just seeing the efflorescence, that's one thing. If you
start seeing moisture or the grouting turn colors where it
appears to be wet, you might have something going on
with that concrete subfloor beneath it. I'm not saying you do.
I'm just saying there's a possibility. So if it's on
(29:01):
the you know, perimeter of the floor by an outside wall.
I would just kind of go out there the middle
of the floor. Okay, okay, Well it just maybe there's
a little dip or something that you know where it's
just a little wet and you're getting that blue me I,
I don't really have a super answer for you, but
(29:24):
that's I think that's exactly what you're seeing and you
know something, so.
Speaker 10 (29:30):
It's really nothing to worry about.
Speaker 1 (29:32):
Well, it could be something to worry about, but nothing
to worry about right now. I'd get some effluorescence cleaner
and I would clean that off and keep an eye
on it.
Speaker 10 (29:44):
Okay, Well, thank you so much for your information.
Speaker 3 (29:47):
You're quite welcome. Thanks, Michelle. Take care.
Speaker 1 (29:50):
Yeah, that's it. That's an interesting one because you know,
when you have a floor that is a house that's
built on slab, and let's say they ran plumbing pipes
through that they used to not necessarily now, but they
used to forty years ago. Yeah probably, yeah, I think so.
(30:12):
And you got copper pipe, it's reacting with the minerals
in the concrete. It gets a little pinhole in the
copper pipe. You have introduced moisture, maybe not a lot
but it's wet a lot of the time and you
get effluorescence. So it may be or it may not be,
(30:35):
but let's clean it off. Even if you clean it off,
it'll probably still come back leak or not, but you'll
start having other issues. The whole could get bigger if
that was it. I'm not trying to scary into that.
I'm just giving you that there could be some options
there that could potentially potentially be a bigger problem. Or
(31:00):
it could just be a little effluorescence on the grouting
and let's clean it off. I know people are going like, well,
what about ceiling it, Gary, Yeah, yeah, you can grout.
You know, unsealed grout might have a water penetration rate
of around three percent. If you seal it, you might
get it down to one percent. And so it's and
(31:24):
the problem may be underneath it, So the ceilant may
not really make a dog one bit of difference. All right,
let's take a little break, Bill, we'll kick things off
with you. You're at home with Gary Sullivan.
Speaker 5 (31:36):
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(34:34):
thirteen minutes before the top of the hour, and we've
got plenty of time to take your calls. We've got
another hour to go and we'll be taking those calls
at eight hundred and eight two three eight two five five.
Let's go to Bill Bill Welcome, Hello, sir.
Speaker 11 (34:50):
I'm enjoy your show very much.
Speaker 1 (34:52):
Thank you.
Speaker 11 (34:54):
I was calling I have I'm started to notice this
year lately. It's some black sludge is stuffs that I
can describe it. And it's in my basically wherever water is,
so where the sink is and it's installed, it's in
between the crack of the pink and the and that's
the countertop its fault too. And I have one of
(35:18):
those pink passes that cool out and you can spray
the player, uh that it's coated on underneath that also,
and I'm starting to see it on the shower head.
And and the reason I've really brought it up has said,
I'm changing out a valve and a toilet, and I
(35:39):
noticed the toilet's gonna bludge in it inside of the
cause it also which we're.
Speaker 1 (35:44):
Called that, well, it could be a couple of things
from a drain standpoint. From the drain standpoint, it could
be just bacteria and food particles that create that sledge.
If it's on the supply side, it could be a
reaction with the is it do you have well water?
(36:06):
Is it city?
Speaker 3 (36:06):
Water?
Speaker 1 (36:09):
City? Okay, So sometimes a higher concentrate of magnesiums will
call that cause that sledge. Sometimes it could be the
rubber bladder in the the expansion tank above a water heater.
It could be gaskets in some of your plumbing, or
(36:33):
like the gasket that goes between the granite countertop and
the sink, that could that gasket could be breaking down.
So it can be a couple of things.
Speaker 11 (36:45):
Okay, what's a good way to clean or to get
rid of it? Because I don't now I see it,
and I'm sure it's in there and I haven't noticed it,
but doing dishes in the kitchen area, I really want
to get that off, won't It won't come back and
I just use bleed.
Speaker 1 (37:02):
Yeah, Well, if it's if it's you know, on the uh,
so it's more on the drain side in the kitchen,
is that true?
Speaker 11 (37:12):
Yeah, it's uh, it's around the drain in the kitchen
and also underneath the the fawsic mm hmmm, larger fashad
sure on that part underneath.
Speaker 1 (37:24):
It at first, just using products that you have. I
would try that like just like a vinegar, like a
white vinegar, and you could try that with a cotton cloth.
You could make U maybe a little uh bleach like
(37:45):
a chlorine bleach.
Speaker 3 (37:47):
Uh.
Speaker 1 (37:48):
Spray it on there. Let's sit a little bit in
uh cotton cloth and see if you can wipe it
away with that. I think I'd probably start with that.
You can always get a a disinfectant and mold remover.
Wet and Forget makes an interior disinfectant mold remover where
you spray it on read the directions, but you can
(38:10):
just literally spray it on it. It'll just If it's
a bacteria, it'll kill it. If it's a mold, it'll
kill it. If it's dirt, it's probably not going to
do much with it. So or a sludge like a
black sledge from a decaying gasket to Wet and Forget
probably won't do much with it. But if it's a
mold or things like that, it would. So I'd start
(38:32):
with a white vinegar and see if we can remove
it that way and then maybe try a little bleach cleaner,
maybe a little soft scrub, see if we can get
that stuff off first, and just see where we're at.
Speaker 11 (38:43):
And they I've used the outdoor.
Speaker 1 (38:51):
Yes, it's a totally different product. Totally different product. It's
called disinfectant and mold remover.
Speaker 11 (38:58):
Okay, yeah, well I like that brand a lot. I'm
just going to go straight to that. Sorry, I'll spray
that and that doesn't work, and I'll go around and
try other thingiously, Yeah, I trust in that brand a lot.
I can get out on Amazon or sure.
Speaker 1 (39:18):
You can give that a try, And thank you very much.
I appreciate that call. I was also just kind of
rummaging through my head the different Jaws Practice products they have.
They have a wonderful disinfectant. They got an all purpose
cleaner also, but the Jaws disinfectant, if you had some
of that, I bet that knock.
Speaker 3 (39:37):
It out too.
Speaker 1 (39:39):
And and that is a cleaner and it's a pH
neutral cleaner, so very safe to use versus a bleach
or something along those lines. But it's always difficult in
a lot of respects to recommend a cleaner on something
we don't know what it is. So it could be
a mold, it could be mildew, it could be bacteria.
(40:03):
It could be a reaction with the rubber gaskets that's
causing that. So it's a lot of could bees Tony Welcome.
Speaker 6 (40:13):
Good morning, Gary. Yes, sir, I have a question for you,
and keeping with the cement patching work you've been talking
about this morning, uh huh. I have an older home
and I have a cement port just about ten by
six feet, and I got some issues with the crumbling
and pit marks in the area of it. It has
(40:34):
a section that that's kind of sunk in over the years, okay,
and water will pond in it, and now the cement
is breaking up and you know, kind of crumbling where
you just had a little rocks and pebbles and kind
of sandy mixture there going on. So I want to
clean that out. And at the end around the edges
there's some some crumbling of the edges, you know, on
(40:57):
the corners and whatnot. Okay, My goal is I want
to I want to patch it and see if I
can level the chrumbling sections and then altimately like paint
it or stain it with something that make it just
look better. And my question My question for you is
what what product you think would be best for something
like that.
Speaker 1 (41:12):
Did you catch our conversation with Peter Dice today?
Speaker 6 (41:16):
I got. I got in on the end of it
the rock Patch. Yeah, I actually turned it on with
a podcast a minute or so.
Speaker 1 (41:24):
Okay, do you do you get podcasts regularly?
Speaker 6 (41:28):
Yes?
Speaker 1 (41:29):
Yes, I canoast so what you can do and I'll
give you some tips too, but it'd be well worth
your while. We podcast our project of the week and
each hour of the show. So my conversation with Peter
Dice from Dice Coatings was about rock Patch today. So
(41:50):
that'll be a standalone podcast you can pick up wherever
you get your podcasts. Just type in at Home with
Gary Sullivan and it's available now. Danny's got it up
and take a listen to that, so I will. So
a quick answer would be, I think that product would
be absolutely perfect for what you have. It's a newer
(42:12):
kind of product, and it's a newer it's it's it's
a way out of the box thing. It's not sementatious
though it looks just like concrete. It's a cry resins,
so it doesn't you know, the chemicals can't hurt it
salt can't hurt it. I mean, it's really outstanding and
(42:33):
it's liquid. The question I was thinking you were going
to ask me, and I didn't really have an answer,
was how thick can I put that on? But it
is used as a leveling agent, it is used as
a resurfacer, and it is used for a patching compound,
(42:54):
all of which you need.
Speaker 6 (42:56):
Yeah, this sound like all the buttons.
Speaker 1 (42:58):
There, So here's here. Here would be my plan. Check
out that podcast, listen to it then or then or
either one go to DICEH Codings. It's Dai c H
Coatings dot com. Find that product on their website and
(43:20):
you know, they'll they'll have a you know, a story
about it, you know, and how to apply it and specifications.
They'll probably have a video of the application. They have
a pretty interactive website. And take a look at that,
and I think you'll have your answer. I think that'd
be that'd be such a great product to use there
because you can patch it or level it and everything
(43:42):
with the rock patch. And then you could come over
with another product that they have called roller Rock, and
roller Rock would be a slipperssistant decorative coding. It almost
looks like a coreon. Or you can leave it just
gray in color, which will look new if you resurface
it with it and put a ceilant over it called
(44:05):
track safe, which is a clear slip resistant seiler. So
it's called track safe. Yes, okay, all right, so a
little homework. I think you'll be there, Tony. Okay, thank
you much for the call, appreciate it.
Speaker 3 (44:24):
All right.
Speaker 1 (44:24):
When we come back, pat you'll be up first. We've
got time, we got ray. If you'd like to join us,
do so. It's eight hundred eight two three eight two
five five year at home with Gary Sullivan.
Speaker 5 (44:58):
Time to get your hands dirty with Gary Sullivan. Give
him a call at one eight hundred and eighty two
three talk You're at home with Gary Sullivan.
Speaker 11 (45:08):
M
Well, it's the weekend. Welcome at home with Gary Sullivan.
Thanks for joining me. And by the way, this hour
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gotta love the name Miss Muffett's Revenge. All right, let's
get back to the phones here. If you'd like to
join us, grab a line. It's eight hundred eight two
three eight two five five Pam.
Speaker 2 (01:29):
Welcome, Hi, thank you. I have a problem with chimney
that I'm told the brick is spawling, and I've had
some brick replaced, but to have the whole the whole
chimney replaced is exorbitant, and even to replace all of
(01:51):
the brick that has spawled or however you say, it
is quite expensive, and I've already done some. But I
thought I could put maybe mortar to fill in, or
to pay someone to fill in where the brick has spawled.
And I think maybe they didn't know what they were doing,
(02:13):
and the mortar has started just crumbling. I'm wondering if
a product like the patch Rough Patch the Dice product
would work on a vertical surface, or if there's any
way I wouldn't mind just coating the whole thing with concrete.
It's in the back of the house and it's very secluded, woodsy,
(02:37):
and you know people are using concrete for countertops nowadays,
or even an architectural metal. Sometimes contemporary chimneys and fireplaces
are metal. But just something to coat it without having
to rebuild the whole chimney. The structure is fine, it's
it's connected to the house. Well, it's just about a
(02:58):
third of the brick the two story chimney has popped off,
and you know the brick is it looks like brick
eating rats have pete on it.
Speaker 1 (03:09):
Well, basically, yeah, I don't think the rock patch that
I was speaking with Peter Diisch about is going to
work on vertical surfaces. It's it's pretty much for you know,
flat surfaces or a slight. You know, it's more for
her horizontal not vertical. Let me ask you a couple
(03:32):
of questions. Have you had the chimney inspected? You said
it's well connected. Have you checked the liner in the chimney,
maybe the crown washed at the top of the chimney.
Have has it been inspected?
Speaker 2 (03:48):
People have looked at it and even given me they haven't.
They just say it needs to be sealed. And I
thought the last person sealed it, But apparently they're the
people that used a mortar that, you know, just started crumbling.
I thought it was more of a cement mortar.
Speaker 1 (04:08):
Well, I think that's probably people look at it. Yeah,
were they qualified chimney sweeps?
Speaker 2 (04:15):
Yes, yes, yes.
Speaker 1 (04:17):
Here's here's why I ask. I think what you're going
to be looking at, based on what you want to
invest in that chimney is probably a mortar properly applied,
filling in the crevices and patching it that way, and
even maybe looking at painting it that might be an
(04:37):
option also, But I got some other questions, and you know,
there's several things that can make the brick on a
chimney pop off. Certainly one of those is not having
the brick sealed. Now that ships that ship sailed, Okay,
(04:58):
ceiling it is not going to make make it better.
Sealing it may help prevent future problems, but you're still
going to have the problem of the brick that's already fallen.
So that's you know, So the big question is what's
caused that brick to pop? Was it just it was unsealed?
(05:21):
And that's kind of an easy answer, and it's kind
of surprising that they wouldn't take it further.
Speaker 3 (05:26):
That's what I was asking if they were.
Speaker 1 (05:28):
Qualified, because if you see brick popping off a chimney,
I would say, have you sealed it lately? And so
would everybody else, and no, I haven't. Okay, Well, that
can be one issue. The other issue is at the
top of that chimney, there's what they call a crown wash.
A crownwash is a concrete pad that the flu goes
(05:51):
through that connects the liner and the brick of the
chimney together. And like all other crete pads. Over time,
they need to be not only sealed, but probably cracks
repaired in it, and you know, make it as waterproof
(06:11):
as you can, because if water gets down in between
that brick and that liner, it can cause even bigger damage,
which could be a cracked liner, which they also should
have inspected, probably with a video camera to see if
that liner is cracked, because I don't want you to
go spend all this money patching and fixing up this
(06:33):
chimney and then you have somebody come out and they go, well,
you got a crack liner and that's a that's you know,
you got to reline that chimney or take that chimney down.
So we want to have, you know, a thorough inspection
of that chimney rather than just focusing on the brick
that's popping off.
Speaker 2 (06:56):
Okay, right, So the crown washed concrete liner, you call
that a crownwash is a concrete loner liner.
Speaker 1 (07:06):
No, the crownsh is a concrete pad at the top
of the.
Speaker 2 (07:09):
Chimney, concrete pad, okay, okay.
Speaker 1 (07:13):
And then they're inside that chimney. Is the liner that
protects your house if there was a chimney fire from
burning the house. Down. And I'm not saying that it's
a cracked liner. I'm just saying it's a possibility it
could be a cracked liner. Okay, it's a possibility the
crownwash could be in bad shape, which is introducing a
(07:35):
whole lot more water into that brick than an unsealed brick,
is you know, absorbing, gotcha. So what you want to
get is you want to get a c s I,
a Certified chimney sweep that's a.
Speaker 3 (07:50):
Chi Chimney Sweep Institute of America.
Speaker 1 (07:54):
Uh.
Speaker 3 (07:54):
There, they're the ones you want to deal.
Speaker 4 (07:56):
With, Okay, and.
Speaker 2 (08:01):
Just have them do a thorough investigation. I thought it
was just rain water or water you know, freezing and
getting inside the brick and just popping it.
Speaker 1 (08:12):
And it could be, but it could be these other
things too. And if it's these other things, then you
invest in sealing the brick and everything, you're throwing your
money away exactly. So let's let's get a good autopsy.
Speaker 2 (08:25):
On that, Okay, and say an autopsy. You said you
mean to check it out. Okay, say everything's but you've
come to where you want to you know, resurface and
make the brick, you know, fill back out. Because it's
got you know, gnawed, w you know, it's got pop,
(08:47):
it's popped, and it's rugged and half the brick's missing.
Do you is there a concrete material that you could
just you know, put on that.
Speaker 1 (08:57):
It would be mortar.
Speaker 3 (08:58):
It would be mortar.
Speaker 1 (09:00):
It would be more with a bonding agent in it.
And you know, again depending on how qualified they're doing.
You got to make sure there's a bonding agent applied
to the mortar mix so it adheres to the brick.
You want to make sure that there's no powdery or
oxidation of that brick which is causing it not to stick.
You want to make sure that the brick is wetted
down when you're applying the mortar. It's going to suck
(09:22):
the moisture out of it and it's going to fall
off in two years. So you know, we just want
to make sure it's done right.
Speaker 3 (09:29):
But it would be patched.
Speaker 1 (09:31):
There's other people that would put you know, I don't
know if chimney's used with a fireplace or anything along
those lines, but you know, you can encase it, you
can trim it out. You just got to make sure
all the components are functioning as it's supposed to be functioning.
I mean, you could trim it out with a sighting,
you could, you could do all kinds of things. That's
why you got to get somebody in there that's giving
(09:53):
you options, not just answering your question about the you know,
and when you ask them, don't.
Speaker 3 (09:58):
Even bring up the bricks.
Speaker 1 (10:00):
Hey, I want to have my I want to have
my chimney clean and inspected.
Speaker 2 (10:05):
Okay. And when you mentioned siding, is there a metal siding?
Assume every assuming everything else is okay.
Speaker 1 (10:12):
Well, yeah, they'll give you all kinds of options.
Speaker 3 (10:14):
They'll give you all kinds of options.
Speaker 1 (10:16):
You got to let them know that they're there to
clean and give you an inspection on your chimney. And
then if there's a problem that they see, they're going
to give you quotes on how to fix it. And
you can bring up the brick at that point whenever
you want. But let's let's make sure that thing's in
(10:36):
good shape perpect.
Speaker 2 (10:39):
That's that's something I hadn't thought of. Thank you so much.
I appreciate it and I enjoy your show.
Speaker 1 (10:45):
Thank you much. Pam. All right, let's take a little break. Greg,
you'll be uh up. First, we have Michelle Edwin John
you can join us. You're at home with Gary.
Speaker 5 (10:54):
Solid weekends, I mean a never writing list of things
to do around your home, get help and one a
one hundred and eighty two three talk. You're at home
with Gary's sullivantor.
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(13:38):
it we go at Home with Gary Salvin. By the way,
if you missed Peter Disch talking about a wonderful concrete
patch called rock Patch, you can pick up that podcast
wherever you get your podcast, iHeart app would be one.
Just type in at Home with Gary Salvin podcast.
Speaker 2 (13:58):
It is available now, by the way.
Speaker 1 (14:01):
Okay, and it'll show up in the for you to
take a listen to a lot of really good information,
a very unique type of product for resurfacing concrete and
repairing dings and dents.
Speaker 3 (14:14):
All right, let's go to Greg. Greg, welcome, how.
Speaker 4 (14:18):
You doing, long time listener, appreciate your show. Thank you,
And this could be repetitive because I just turned to
you on after your Ditsch guest. Okay, I've got a
garage floor concrete patch I've got to do. It's approximately
nine inches in diameter and the maximum depth is one inch.
Speaker 3 (14:39):
Okay?
Speaker 4 (14:40):
Is that product? And I'll go back and listen to
the podcast. You have to repeat everything. But is that
product highly recommended for that type of patch?
Speaker 1 (14:46):
Well, it is now, I don't know. I didn't ask
what the depth of that application can be. But it
did talk about filling cracks, We did talk about repairing, spawling.
Some of the cementatious products you can only apply a
half inch thick. I'm not sure about the rock patch.
(15:11):
The rock patch is superior of any cementatious patching because
it's not it's not cementatious, it's not a concrete. So
I would go to their website and it'll have the
instructions and just see what the thickness is. It won't
be thinner than a half inch, but it can be
(15:32):
that thin because they're also coating it over the surface
of the concrete. So just double check it's a dish
Daichcoatings dot Com.
Speaker 4 (15:43):
Okay, I will do that and hopefully that product's great
for the one in step. And if there is product,
that's when you say half inch, you mean half inch
total or half inch repetitive steps.
Speaker 3 (15:55):
Repetitive steps.
Speaker 1 (15:56):
So the other product, and I've recommended this one for
forty years, it's just you know, they'll build a better
mouse trap thing it's called Vinyl concrete patcher.
Speaker 3 (16:09):
It's made by quick Crete.
Speaker 6 (16:12):
Right.
Speaker 1 (16:12):
It is a sementatious coating, So it's a powder that
you mix with water. Let's stand for about three minutes
in the bucket, and you apply that in half inch increments.
Speaker 6 (16:23):
Gotcha?
Speaker 4 (16:24):
Okay, all right, I appreciate. I'll check Diytsch's website first
and if that's applicable.
Speaker 1 (16:31):
Sounds good, I'll do the same.
Speaker 3 (16:33):
Thanks.
Speaker 1 (16:33):
All right, thanks everybody. All right, we'll go to Edwin. Edwin, welcome,
good day Gary.
Speaker 7 (16:42):
How are you doing?
Speaker 1 (16:43):
Yes?
Speaker 3 (16:43):
Fine, thank you.
Speaker 6 (16:46):
Uh.
Speaker 7 (16:46):
Two quick questions. First, Uh, when I was replacing the
night two guard two door garage gas at the bottom seel,
I got that done. I've also been looking at this
for some weeks and I have a gap between the
where the garage floor ends to be, where the garage
(17:09):
door is at, and where the driveway begins. I have
about a gap there of you know the garage door,
the garage driver lab.
Speaker 8 (17:20):
I have a gap of about three quarter maybe seven
eighths okay, about two inches deep, and you know the
width of the garage which is about sixteen feet.
Speaker 7 (17:31):
So can I fill that in or should I? Because
I hate the lot of water going in there and
washing away underneath you.
Speaker 1 (17:38):
Yeah, so what you want to do is you want
to clean that out the best you can, especially if
there's grass, weeds, different things growing up in there. Clean
it out. Get a shop back, suck a dirt up,
and you know, I need debris that's in there. Then
get what they call backer rod, which is almost like
a foam roping that can be pressed down into the
(18:00):
ad and once it's pressed down into it, you push
it down to about three ace of an inch to
the surface of the slab, and then you use a
euthane self leveling crack filler comes in a cocking tube.
You'll need an industrial cocking gun and you just put
(18:20):
a bed of that euthane self leveling crack filler. Quick
creep makes it and that'll seal it up, and you
know that'll still flex a little bit and eventually that
calking will fail. But usually you can get five years
out of it or so unless it's really moving. And
then the way to eliminate it it's called cock saber.
Speaker 6 (18:46):
Cock favor.
Speaker 1 (18:48):
Or you could fill it up with sand too. I
mean you could fill it up to three ace of
an inch with sand and then just put that euthane
self leveling crack filler on top.
Speaker 7 (18:59):
Okay, And the second thing was I'm a home inspector
and I'm finding a lot of homes here that are
needing right on.
Speaker 1 (19:12):
Yeah, I'll tell you what ed. When I'm going to
have to cut you off, let me put you on
hold and we'll get you on the other side of
the half hour. We got a hard break I gotta take,
so sit tight and we'll get that other question answered.
You're at home with Gary Sullivan.
Speaker 5 (19:39):
If you don't have a list of things to do
around the house, Gary will find something for you.
Speaker 4 (19:43):
At what eight hundred eighty.
Speaker 5 (19:45):
Two three talk you're at home with Gary Sullivan.
Speaker 1 (20:04):
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(21:09):
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(21:55):
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a hardware All right, back at it we go thirty
(22:30):
three minutes after the top. The hour lines are open
for you. It's eight hundred eight two three eight two
five five all right, Edwin, Sorry about that. I had
a hard break. I had to take.
Speaker 6 (22:41):
Quite afright.
Speaker 7 (22:42):
I understand you got to pay the bills as well.
Speaker 1 (22:44):
There you go, the.
Speaker 9 (22:48):
Uh and thanks for answering that first part. I'll look
into that right away. The second part is that I
was telling you I'm a home inspector, and I keep
telling these people a lot of them I'm not saying
don't believe me or anything, but I could see a
lot of homes don't have radiation mitigation systems. Radio mitigation
(23:09):
systems on a lot of homes, and if you look
on the map, I mean you could just look on
the website Ohio website that a large portion of Ohio
and Pennsylvania is really heavy with that. And with a
lot of people quitting smoke in and a lot of
people not beginning to smoke nowadays, you're still seeing that
(23:31):
the lung cancer rate isn't going down as fast as
it should and it's because of RADA, because that right
now is the second most cause of lung cancer. So
I just thought, maybe while you're well, I got John.
I don't have to be on the line right now,
but while I got John, if you can maybe insinuate
(23:52):
how important that is to have it at least tested,
because when I have I'm not certified for that, but
I do subcontract that out, so to have them do
it and then give them the choice of having the
mitigation system put in or not, especially now that people
are uh finishing, finishing up remodeling their their basements. Nowadays,
(24:16):
they have a little bit more room, you know, for
the kids.
Speaker 1 (24:19):
Right And you bring up a really good point. And
I want to tell you, every time I talk about
radon and the consequences of right on, it's amazing to me.
I will get hundreds of emails tell me I'm crazy,
and I'm not crazy. The the data is there that
(24:40):
shows it, and I've had multiple experts on that. Also
talk about indoor home pollution which is now five times
higher than outdoor pollution, and that's by the EPA.
Speaker 7 (24:57):
Yeah, because homes are tighter now.
Speaker 1 (25:00):
They're tighter now exactly. And you know, I talk about
in air exchange units for homes, and it's not a
radon mitigation system because the radon's in the home and
then it's exchanging it out. A radon mitigation system eliminates
the radar from ever entering the home. So though air
(25:24):
exchange unit is very helpful and it may very well
minimize the consequences, it's a problem. And it's a problem
that's you know, grown mainly because our homes are tighter.
And there's regions you mentioned Ohio, Pennsylvania, you go out
(25:44):
west in the Colorado's and states like that same thing.
I mean, it's very high and yeah, get it tested
and just see where you are and then decide what
you want to do. I have people call me all
the time. They ask me how to cheat on the test.
If I open all the window, will will register? I says,
(26:05):
maybe not, but why would you do that?
Speaker 10 (26:09):
Oh?
Speaker 1 (26:09):
Wow, so hey, I appreciate that. That's that's good conversation.
Speaker 3 (26:15):
I certainly appreciate Edwin.
Speaker 4 (26:17):
You're welcome.
Speaker 9 (26:18):
Thank you for your time.
Speaker 1 (26:19):
You bet you take care all right. Thirty seven minutes
after the top of they are talking home improvement. Eight
hundred eighty two three eight two five five, grab a line.
We have Michelle. Michelle.
Speaker 2 (26:30):
Welcome, Hi Gary, thanks for taking my call.
Speaker 1 (26:36):
You bet, Gary, Yes, I can.
Speaker 10 (26:40):
Okay. I have a question about a ceramic tile floor.
It's on the first floor. There's no basement underneath, and
there is a clear white liquid that's cheeping up through
the ground and it drives to a crusty way substance.
(27:01):
Do you have any idea what that might be?
Speaker 1 (27:05):
My guess is it's what they call efflorescence and holds
the home.
Speaker 10 (27:12):
Oh, probably thirty forty years old.
Speaker 3 (27:16):
How long has it been going on?
Speaker 10 (27:20):
About three months now?
Speaker 1 (27:21):
Okay, okay, so let me explain what efflorescence is. It's
gonna be hard to determine it, quite honestly. Efflorescence is
water is reacting with the grouting or the concrete slab
(27:42):
that is underneath the grouting. So they're both sementatious.
Speaker 3 (27:48):
Right, the grouting and the slab, And there is.
Speaker 1 (27:51):
Lime and salts in that concrete. And if it stays
wet periodically, or stays wet period those salts in that
lime in that concrete or grout I use the word bloom.
Speaker 3 (28:12):
I don't know if that's correct or not.
Speaker 1 (28:14):
But what it does is that water reacts with those
and it starts a white, hard crystallization that works its
way through the concrete. You see it a lot on
concrete basement walls, and you can clean it off, but
it'll keep coming back. So my one concern is if
(28:39):
you're just seeing the efflorescence, that's one thing. If you
start seeing moisture or the grouting turn colors where it
appears to be wet, you might have something going on
with that concrete subfloor beneath it. I'm not saying you do.
I'm just saying there's a possibility. So if it's on
(29:01):
the you know, perimeter of the floor by an outside wall.
I would just kind of go out there the middle
of the floor. Okay, okay, Well it just maybe there's
a little dip or something that you know where it's
just a little wet and you're getting that blue me I,
I don't really have a super answer for you, but
(29:24):
that's I think that's exactly what you're seeing and you
know something, so.
Speaker 10 (29:30):
It's really nothing to worry about.
Speaker 1 (29:32):
Well, it could be something to worry about, but nothing
to worry about right now. I'd get some effluorescence cleaner
and I would clean that off and keep an eye
on it.
Speaker 10 (29:44):
Okay, Well, thank you so much for your information.
Speaker 3 (29:47):
You're quite welcome. Thanks, Michelle. Take care.
Speaker 1 (29:50):
Yeah, that's it. That's an interesting one because you know,
when you have a floor that is a house that's
built on slab, and let's say they ran plumbing pipes
through that they used to not necessarily now, but they
used to forty years ago. Yeah probably, yeah, I think so.
(30:12):
And you got copper pipe, it's reacting with the minerals
in the concrete. It gets a little pinhole in the
copper pipe. You have introduced moisture, maybe not a lot
but it's wet a lot of the time and you
get effluorescence. So it may be or it may not be,
(30:35):
but let's clean it off. Even if you clean it off,
it'll probably still come back leak or not, but you'll
start having other issues. The whole could get bigger if
that was it. I'm not trying to scary into that.
I'm just giving you that there could be some options
there that could potentially potentially be a bigger problem. Or
(31:00):
it could just be a little effluorescence on the grouting
and let's clean it off. I know people are going like, well,
what about ceiling it, Gary, Yeah, yeah, you can grout.
You know, unsealed grout might have a water penetration rate
of around three percent. If you seal it, you might
get it down to one percent. And so it's and
(31:24):
the problem may be underneath it, So the ceilant may
not really make a dog one bit of difference. All right,
let's take a little break, Bill, we'll kick things off
with you. You're at home with Gary Sullivan.
Speaker 5 (31:36):
Help for your home is just a click away at
Garysullivan online dot com. This He's at home with Garysullivan.
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(34:34):
thirteen minutes before the top of the hour, and we've
got plenty of time to take your calls. We've got
another hour to go and we'll be taking those calls
at eight hundred and eight two three eight two five five.
Let's go to Bill Bill Welcome, Hello, sir.
Speaker 11 (34:50):
I'm enjoy your show very much.
Speaker 1 (34:52):
Thank you.
Speaker 11 (34:54):
I was calling I have I'm started to notice this
year lately. It's some black sludge is stuffs that I
can describe it. And it's in my basically wherever water is,
so where the sink is and it's installed, it's in
between the crack of the pink and the and that's
the countertop its fault too. And I have one of
(35:18):
those pink passes that cool out and you can spray
the player, uh that it's coated on underneath that also,
and I'm starting to see it on the shower head.
And and the reason I've really brought it up has said,
I'm changing out a valve and a toilet, and I
(35:39):
noticed the toilet's gonna bludge in it inside of the
cause it also which we're.
Speaker 1 (35:44):
Called that, well, it could be a couple of things
from a drain standpoint. From the drain standpoint, it could
be just bacteria and food particles that create that sledge.
If it's on the supply side, it could be a
reaction with the is it do you have well water?
(36:06):
Is it city?
Speaker 3 (36:06):
Water?
Speaker 1 (36:09):
City? Okay, So sometimes a higher concentrate of magnesiums will
call that cause that sledge. Sometimes it could be the
rubber bladder in the the expansion tank above a water heater.
It could be gaskets in some of your plumbing, or
(36:33):
like the gasket that goes between the granite countertop and
the sink, that could that gasket could be breaking down.
So it can be a couple of things.
Speaker 11 (36:45):
Okay, what's a good way to clean or to get
rid of it? Because I don't now I see it,
and I'm sure it's in there and I haven't noticed it,
but doing dishes in the kitchen area, I really want
to get that off, won't It won't come back and
I just use bleed.
Speaker 1 (37:02):
Yeah, Well, if it's if it's you know, on the uh,
so it's more on the drain side in the kitchen,
is that true?
Speaker 11 (37:12):
Yeah, it's uh, it's around the drain in the kitchen
and also underneath the the fawsic mm hmmm, larger fashad
sure on that part underneath.
Speaker 1 (37:24):
It at first, just using products that you have. I
would try that like just like a vinegar, like a
white vinegar, and you could try that with a cotton cloth.
You could make U maybe a little uh bleach like
(37:45):
a chlorine bleach.
Speaker 3 (37:47):
Uh.
Speaker 1 (37:48):
Spray it on there. Let's sit a little bit in
uh cotton cloth and see if you can wipe it
away with that. I think I'd probably start with that.
You can always get a a disinfectant and mold remover.
Wet and Forget makes an interior disinfectant mold remover where
you spray it on read the directions, but you can
(38:10):
just literally spray it on it. It'll just If it's
a bacteria, it'll kill it. If it's a mold, it'll
kill it. If it's dirt, it's probably not going to
do much with it. So or a sludge like a
black sledge from a decaying gasket to Wet and Forget
probably won't do much with it. But if it's a
mold or things like that, it would. So I'd start
(38:32):
with a white vinegar and see if we can remove
it that way and then maybe try a little bleach cleaner,
maybe a little soft scrub, see if we can get
that stuff off first, and just see where we're at.
Speaker 11 (38:43):
And they I've used the outdoor.
Speaker 1 (38:51):
Yes, it's a totally different product. Totally different product. It's
called disinfectant and mold remover.
Speaker 11 (38:58):
Okay, yeah, well I like that brand a lot. I'm
just going to go straight to that. Sorry, I'll spray
that and that doesn't work, and I'll go around and
try other thingiously, Yeah, I trust in that brand a lot.
I can get out on Amazon or sure.
Speaker 1 (39:18):
You can give that a try, And thank you very much.
I appreciate that call. I was also just kind of
rummaging through my head the different Jaws Practice products they have.
They have a wonderful disinfectant. They got an all purpose
cleaner also, but the Jaws disinfectant, if you had some
of that, I bet that knock.
Speaker 3 (39:37):
It out too.
Speaker 1 (39:39):
And and that is a cleaner and it's a pH
neutral cleaner, so very safe to use versus a bleach
or something along those lines. But it's always difficult in
a lot of respects to recommend a cleaner on something
we don't know what it is. So it could be
a mold, it could be mildew, it could be bacteria.
(40:03):
It could be a reaction with the rubber gaskets that's
causing that. So it's a lot of could bees Tony Welcome.
Speaker 6 (40:13):
Good morning, Gary. Yes, sir, I have a question for you,
and keeping with the cement patching work you've been talking
about this morning, uh huh. I have an older home
and I have a cement port just about ten by
six feet, and I got some issues with the crumbling
and pit marks in the area of it. It has
(40:34):
a section that that's kind of sunk in over the years, okay,
and water will pond in it, and now the cement
is breaking up and you know, kind of crumbling where
you just had a little rocks and pebbles and kind
of sandy mixture there going on. So I want to
clean that out. And at the end around the edges
there's some some crumbling of the edges, you know, on
(40:57):
the corners and whatnot. Okay, My goal is I want
to I want to patch it and see if I
can level the chrumbling sections and then altimately like paint
it or stain it with something that make it just
look better. And my question My question for you is
what what product you think would be best for something
like that.
Speaker 1 (41:12):
Did you catch our conversation with Peter Dice today?
Speaker 6 (41:16):
I got. I got in on the end of it
the rock Patch. Yeah, I actually turned it on with
a podcast a minute or so.
Speaker 1 (41:24):
Okay, do you do you get podcasts regularly?
Speaker 6 (41:28):
Yes?
Speaker 1 (41:29):
Yes, I canoast so what you can do and I'll
give you some tips too, but it'd be well worth
your while. We podcast our project of the week and
each hour of the show. So my conversation with Peter
Dice from Dice Coatings was about rock Patch today. So
(41:50):
that'll be a standalone podcast you can pick up wherever
you get your podcasts. Just type in at Home with
Gary Sullivan and it's available now. Danny's got it up
and take a listen to that, so I will. So
a quick answer would be, I think that product would
be absolutely perfect for what you have. It's a newer
(42:12):
kind of product, and it's a newer it's it's it's
a way out of the box thing. It's not sementatious
though it looks just like concrete. It's a cry resins,
so it doesn't you know, the chemicals can't hurt it
salt can't hurt it. I mean, it's really outstanding and
(42:33):
it's liquid. The question I was thinking you were going
to ask me, and I didn't really have an answer,
was how thick can I put that on? But it
is used as a leveling agent, it is used as
a resurfacer, and it is used for a patching compound,
(42:54):
all of which you need.
Speaker 6 (42:56):
Yeah, this sound like all the buttons.
Speaker 1 (42:58):
There, So here's here. Here would be my plan. Check
out that podcast, listen to it then or then or
either one go to DICEH Codings. It's Dai c H
Coatings dot com. Find that product on their website and
(43:20):
you know, they'll they'll have a you know, a story
about it, you know, and how to apply it and specifications.
They'll probably have a video of the application. They have
a pretty interactive website. And take a look at that,
and I think you'll have your answer. I think that'd
be that'd be such a great product to use there
because you can patch it or level it and everything
(43:42):
with the rock patch. And then you could come over
with another product that they have called roller Rock, and
roller Rock would be a slipperssistant decorative coding. It almost
looks like a coreon. Or you can leave it just
gray in color, which will look new if you resurface
it with it and put a ceilant over it called
(44:05):
track safe, which is a clear slip resistant seiler. So
it's called track safe. Yes, okay, all right, so a
little homework. I think you'll be there, Tony. Okay, thank
you much for the call, appreciate it.
Speaker 3 (44:24):
All right.
Speaker 1 (44:24):
When we come back, pat you'll be up first. We've
got time, we got ray. If you'd like to join us,
do so. It's eight hundred eight two three eight two
five five year at home with Gary Sullivan.
Speaker 5 (44:58):
Time to get your hands dirty with Gary Sullivan. Give
him a call at one eight hundred and eighty two
three talk You're at home with Gary Sullivan.
Speaker 11 (45:08):
M
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