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August 10, 2025 • 45 mins
Wraping up Sunday with your calls and tips.
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Episode Transcript

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Speaker 1 (00:29):
Well, it's the weekend. Welcome. You're at home with Gary Salton,
get a few things done around the home, and happy
to take your calls. We're getting a little home improvement.
Got a couple of lines open and go ahead and
grab one. Danny'll take your call and you and I'll
chat about your home project. All right, Charles, you lead
us off this hour.

Speaker 2 (00:48):
Welcome, Oh, thank you.

Speaker 3 (00:51):
Garry.

Speaker 2 (00:52):
Cut right to the chase here.

Speaker 1 (00:55):
I got one.

Speaker 2 (00:56):
Hundred amp electric service. I'm updating it to six hundred amps.
I have to install a concrete pad approximately ten feet
by twelve feet, on which a steel cabinet about ten

(01:24):
feet long and about six to seven feet high will
be installed on top of it that slab, and then
a bunch of electrical switch gear will be inside that cabinet.
And my question is should should there be a moisture

(01:49):
berry barrier put down before they pour the slab?

Speaker 1 (01:56):
Yeah, there's usually a moisture barrier put in. Yes, you'll
have your moisture barrier, you'll have gravel, you'll have your slab.
How thick of a slab are they asking you to do?

Speaker 2 (02:09):
Well, we're going to have eight inches of base rock,
which is already there, okay, installed, and the slab itself
is going to be about six inches. I think that
I think they're going to put a a rebar grid
in there, but I have to talk to them about that.
But so would they Would you recommend putting what would

(02:30):
you recommend for a moisture barrier before they pour?

Speaker 1 (02:34):
Probably about a ten mil plastic moisture barrier, okay, And.

Speaker 2 (02:39):
Would that go under or over the rebar grid.

Speaker 1 (02:44):
I'm I'm I don't know for sure. You're gonna have
to check me on this. I think goes underneath the
rebard grid.

Speaker 2 (02:50):
Though, Okay, all right, Okay, Well that was my question.
And then once the slab is poured and cured, there
be any point to putting a breathableler over that concrete
before the cabinet is installed.

Speaker 1 (03:11):
It's not gonna hurt. I don't know how necessary it is.
Usually we will put sealers on concrete to minimize the
surface moisture penetration, especially if you live in a really
cold climate where you'd be using rock salts and ice
melters due to snow and ice. If you minimize the

(03:35):
penetration of that salty brine solution, which can be corrosive
to concrete. That's why you would use a seiler or
if it kept getting real moldy, because a morning dew
would just sit in there and penetrate and it wouldn't
really dry very fast, you would use it. I'm gonna
kind of guess where you're at, and unless you've got

(03:57):
a lot of marine layer area, probably not necessary.

Speaker 2 (04:03):
Okay, and tell me again, I'll pick that that that
disclean out of be for that.

Speaker 1 (04:11):
Well, so there's you know, all different millages, but i'd
probably get an eight to ten mill concrete vapor barrier
under there.

Speaker 2 (04:21):
Okay, all right, okay, Gary, all right, thank you.

Speaker 1 (04:24):
You're quite welcome. Thank you, take care all right. The
numbers eight hundred eight two three eight two five five
talking about your home, Gary, welcome, Hey you doing Gary,
doing fine? Thanks?

Speaker 2 (04:38):
Quick question for you.

Speaker 4 (04:39):
I'm replaced in a seventy year old oak bridge in
about every ten years. We used to coat it with
Kreas soap which preserved it a long time. Right, I
do have some white oak rough cut lumber cut for it.
Is there anything that I should code this with before

(04:59):
I even start building it to help preserve it?

Speaker 1 (05:04):
Yeah? Have you thought about a pressure treated water. You
don't want to go that direction.

Speaker 4 (05:12):
I found a sawmill and the white white oak was
a lot cheaper. Yeah, and the thickness I wanted because
I'm putting eight by eight beams across, right, and then
two inch two inch stick plankboards ten inches wide.

Speaker 1 (05:30):
Yeah. Yeah. Rarely on coatings and stains and seilers. Am
I kind of wishy washy on which way I want
to go? But on that one I am a little bit.
I think about doing you know, almost like a spar
yur thing, but then that's a coating and I hate
to do that where you're going to get some foot
traffic on it. So it's kind of taken me back to,

(05:54):
you know, almost like a deck stained seiler, which is
normally used on pressure treated would but I feel pretty
certain it would, you know, And you're using a semi
transparent correct. I mean you want to see the wood grain.

Speaker 4 (06:11):
It doesn't matter. It's mainly for uh driving a tractor
across it.

Speaker 1 (06:17):
Huh.

Speaker 4 (06:20):
And mainly what I'm concerned about is in between the
beam and the plank boards where the sun can hit it.

Speaker 1 (06:28):
Right.

Speaker 4 (06:29):
Well, I thought I put something down before I even
assembled everything, you know, just to help deserves a little longer.

Speaker 1 (06:39):
Yeah, well, if it's down where the sun isn't you
could certainly use a spar urithane, which should be a
clear and then on the surface you could use you know,
so that'd be kind of like in the underbelly if
you will right right, you know, I mean that's where
the old Kreoso it's played a really cool part. You know,

(07:00):
they lasted forever. But you know, now we know we're
into things that like your deck sealer that you would
put on the surface of that bridge. You know, if
it's a semi transparent, it's going to look really good,
but you're probably is it a real sunny location or
a shady location?

Speaker 4 (07:21):
Probably half of the day it's in the sun, yeah,
the more from the morning until probably two o'clock.

Speaker 1 (07:28):
I mean, you'll probably recoat that thing about every three years,
but you won't have to stand it or anything, just
clean it and coat it right.

Speaker 4 (07:38):
So, you know, I would the beams will be sitting
on top of the blocks where the foundation is, and
I was wondering about putting tarred on the bottom side
of the beams that are in contact with the blocks. Yeah,
would that be.

Speaker 1 (07:54):
A that would be helpful. In fact, there's a good one.
I'd probably recommend. Its called geo geo ce l. It
is a tripolymer. It is brushable or trillable, and it's clear.
It almost has a blueish tint to it, but it's clear,
and it's it's going to be a tripolymers. It's different

(08:19):
polymers of silicone and it goes on almost like a
maple syrup or something along. You know that consistency or
viscosity that would be helpful. And then just putting a
you know, a good clear spar your thane which is
resistant to you V rays and you know it is

(08:39):
a surface coating. And then for the surface just using
a semi transparent deck stain. Sherman Williams has has one.
It's a modified alcat acrylic. So it has benefits to both.
And if you get in there, you might run that
project by them also, But you know, at first blush

(09:04):
the only thing I'm a little bit saying probably not
as important. You might be able to use that modified
I'll put a crillic deck sealer. Even in the areas
in those pockets you know where I'm talking about the spar.
You're thinking you might be able to use those too,
because what really beats those sealers up is the UV
rays of the sun. And you said that's out of

(09:26):
the sun, that's tucked in there, So I mean you
might get seven eight years out of that, and you know,
just every three years you'd just be recoding it. That's
all clean it and recod.

Speaker 4 (09:35):
Okay, does anybody in Cincinnati area you sell that geo?

Speaker 1 (09:41):
Um? You know they used to. I used I have
them bunny for a while. I still got a can
of it. I would try ace and probably home depot
on those two.

Speaker 4 (09:54):
Okay, all right, all rank you very much.

Speaker 1 (09:56):
All right, good enough, thank you, take care. All right,
it's it's eight hundred A two three eight two five five.
Got a couple of lines left in uh we'll quickly
run out of time for this weekend, so you might
want to go ahead and grab them. You're at home
with Gary Celibate.

Speaker 5 (10:11):
Start a project and don't know how to finish it?
Call Gary and one eight hundred eighty two three talk.
You're at home with Gary Solivat.

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(13:03):
it we go. You're at home with Garrie Sullivan as
we work our way through the weekend. By the way,
we got a couple of lines open. If you'd like
to jump on board, do so. It's eight hundred and
eighty two three eight two five five Lance.

Speaker 6 (13:17):
Welcome, Good morning Gary.

Speaker 1 (13:20):
How are you doing fine? Thank you?

Speaker 6 (13:24):
Quick question. I've got twin double vinyl wrap, double hung
windows in one room, and I was cleaning in that
room last week and I noticed under one of the
windows it's a tiny like water mark drip. It starts

(13:45):
under the little wooden sill at the bottom of the
window and it goes went all the way to the floor.
It had dried. It may have happened recently, it may
have happened three months ago. I think my mistake was
deciding to clean in the room.

Speaker 1 (14:02):
Dark onet. You would have never found it, Yeah.

Speaker 6 (14:05):
I would have never. Ignorance is bliss man.

Speaker 1 (14:07):
That's right, that's right. Right.

Speaker 6 (14:10):
So I call, I call the friend. He's been in
the window and doors business for years. He said, you know,
and the time people think the leak is right there
at the base of the window by the sill, but
it's really above the window.

Speaker 1 (14:28):
Yeah.

Speaker 6 (14:29):
Do you buy into that philosophy or.

Speaker 1 (14:32):
Yeah, to a degree, I buy into it. I know
even on door jams, you know, the paint peels at
the bottom and everybody thinks the leak's there, but it's
up at the top of the jam. So and windows
are the same way. There's no way to say, you know,
over the phone, like, oh, your leak's probably you know
up above the window. It could be is this a

(14:54):
brick house or is it sighting or what is it?

Speaker 6 (14:58):
It's the vinyl sighting. Okay, These windows are on the
west side, which gets the bront of the.

Speaker 1 (15:05):
Lane right right right? How old are the windows? Twenty years?
One thing? Uh, and again I apologize, I'm not there.
I can't see it. I'm just spitballing. Two. With vinyl sighting,
I would say, uh, probably less of a problem above

(15:31):
the window. I can certainly be wrong. It's it certainly
could leak there. It would be more prevalent in my book,
if it were a brick house, because we can get
a crack brick, or we can get a little piece
of missing mortar, and there's a void between the house
and that brick. There's a little space. Sometimes it'll work
down the side of the window and they'll just be

(15:53):
you know, path of least resistance, right and it comes
out right underneath the sill. But I would say where
I would think there could be an issue is the
calking around the window. It's facing the west. There is
a natural opening there that is filled with a calking
which is now twenty years old, and it doesn't take

(16:16):
much right to make that little trickle down below that
would sell It doesn't take much water. But really I
think the only way you're going to really identify it is,
you know, get out there with a hose and on
day one you'll do the right jam of that window.
Day two you would do the top of that window,

(16:38):
focusing on where the calking is and also that siding,
and then day three use the hose on the other side,
and day four at the bottom of the window and
see if you can reproduce that leak. I had a
leak and a window. The windows were fifteen years old,
and it happened maybe two times a year, and it
would be a driving rain. It fa the north, so

(17:01):
whenever we had a Norse storm, and it wasn't very
often in a driving rain, it would just be dripping
from the top of the window. And I never did
find that leak. I ended up having all the windows
replacing the house and a couple of years later, they
were terrible windows, and you know the problem. You know,
we'd get the new windows in and everything went away.
But the only way I really track it down is

(17:22):
with a garden hose on high pressure.

Speaker 6 (17:26):
Okay, okay, now let me ask you this. Maybe this
will suggest something to you. When I raised both windows,
the window that leaks the vinyl base, you know, under
the under the window, when I raised it, it was
soaking wet. The window that's not leaking, it was dry
as a bone.

Speaker 1 (17:43):
Hm. Was the window locked before both windows were locked?
Both windows were locked? M Yeah, Well if that's the case.
If that's the case, that tells me you know it,
you know that that would funnel into where see that'd

(18:04):
be almost on the inside casing. So then that would
portrayal coming down. I don't know what that would tell me. Really,
as I'm thinking about it, I don't know what that's
telling about. It'd almost be like if you're hitting straight
on the window. I'd go out there and I'd take
that hose and I'd just square all over that window
and see if you can get more water in that tray.

(18:27):
That's what's going to be my project this after Yeah,
I think I think you almost got to see it
in order to you know, track it down. And then
even then when you get the water in there, I
mean you're gonna have to really fine tooth comb and
try and figure. You may even have to pop a
little that siding off to see what's behind there, see
what's getting in.

Speaker 6 (18:45):
That's what I'm thinking. Yeah, exactly, and way off topic.
Is it true that fift air, approximately fifty of the
air we breathe in our homes comes from a cross
space because of something called the stack effect?

Speaker 1 (18:59):
Well, yeah, I mean I don't know if it's fifty percent,
I would have no idea there. But if you've got
you know, a cross space or even a basement and
you're running high humidity in that and maybe we've got
some mildew growth or mold growth if it's not addressed,
and if that mold isn't controlled, it does walk right

(19:20):
up the steps and eventually that that problem can be
on the second floor of the home. So stack effect
is a real thing, and it has to be you know,
when you start finding that high humidity or mold in
a basement needs to be addressed right away.

Speaker 4 (19:36):
All right.

Speaker 1 (19:37):
I hope that helps your lance. Thanks for the call
and linees available. You're at home with Gary.

Speaker 7 (19:42):
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(22:43):
in it we go thirty three minutes after the top
of the hour, talking home Improvement at Home with Gary Sullivan.
If you've got a question, our phone number is eight
hundred eight two three eight two five five. Feel free
to grab a line. We'll chat about your project. Common
areas for breeding mold and mildew. And we had to

(23:06):
call her about the window that was leaking, and that's
certainly one of those areas, as he said, where he
noticed it was below the sill on the drywall down
to the floor, and in a lot of cases, well
have insulation behind that wall, and if it's a cellulose insulation,

(23:28):
or even if it's not that moisture, that organic material
would be a place to have mold growth. And a
mold colony goes dormant when you shut off the water.
But if that leak's constantly leaking, that mold colony's constantly growing.
And the two places for windows to leak and one

(23:53):
am I talked about is the calking around windows. The
other one is if the window was flashed improperly, now
that probably would have shown up a long time ago.
Flashing is hidden, it's probably not going to go bad.

(24:14):
Calking is not hidden, and it probably will go bad.
But one thing we didn't talk about, and I wouldn't
really take it out of the equation. I thought about
it after we went to break and it's something we
talk about a lot. But it sounded in his case
like it was a leak. But if you see staining

(24:37):
below a window, or probably more so staining on a
window sill, it could be condensation. Windows are locked, our
homes are heated. Are in the wintertime, they're humid in
that cold temperature outside. If the humidity higher on the inside,

(25:02):
it usually is, and it's excessively higher, and sometimes it
can be and it hits that cold window, you can
get water droplets, and it usually starts from the bottom
works its way up. Sometimes the whole windows fog. Sometimes
it's just the first, you know, ten inches and then
that you know, trickles down onto the sill. Depends how

(25:24):
deep the sill it can spill over and actually you
know stain the wall. I've seen that a lot in
older homes, even when there is no there is no
insulation in the walls, and you've got old plaster walls
below the window sills. A lot of times a plaster
is practically chalky and it's it's degrading because of the moisture.

(25:49):
And I used to talk about rather than using a
a plaster mix, to use a tile ground and a
patch and it had some resistance to moisture, more so
than a plaster. But kind of getting off the point.

(26:10):
The problem is as chasing down leaks is always a challenge.
The fella that said, I think it was fifty percent
of the time it's above the window. And I don't
know if it's fifty percent of the time, but certainly,
certainly I know for a fact that's true. I mean,
a lot of leaks are hard to find because we
never checked the top of the window because we see

(26:32):
the leak at the bottom of the window. But again,
when I was thinking about his house again, he said,
it's sighting, and we're probably not going to be able
to really find out what's going on unless we pop
some of that sighting off, because there may be another
window above it, and there may be some corners on

(26:53):
the siding, and with wind driven rain, it may not
be leaking on that window. It may be up behind
the sighting and then coming down and hitting the top
of that window. So the bottom of the upper window,
the top of the window that's actually leaking, and that's
where the problem is showing up. But it's the upper window.

(27:14):
So you see how difficult it is tracking those down.
All right? Tom? Welcome?

Speaker 3 (27:20):
Yeah, Gary, it is Tom, just north of Cincinnati. A
couple questions. I'm getting ready to do some remodeling in
a rental property a kitchen, and I'm gonna have to
bust I'm gonna bust out all of the face in
the west wind. I thought i'd tear all that wall
out to put insulation in it while I'm working on it. Okay,
question is normally you use three and a half inch

(27:41):
be could I guess thicker stuff in there or insulation?
You know the regular road with the paper on a
standard of three and a half or two before to
three and a half?

Speaker 1 (27:51):
Right, right, So you're asking.

Speaker 3 (27:53):
Wind thicker would be nice, but I don't know if
it's all well.

Speaker 1 (27:55):
If you compress it, it becomes less effective. Okay, so
three and a half is going to give you what
in our value of nine? Yeah, yeah, usually about two
and a half our value per inch, So let's say three,

(28:17):
so we get an.

Speaker 3 (28:18):
R nine five and a half and next thickness, yeah yeah,
to put that in there.

Speaker 1 (28:27):
I think you're going to compress it so much it's
not going to be as effective. You're not going to
get to the R nineteen. And this is an outside wall, correct,
it's an EXPERI okay, yeah, I just do the three
and a half. Yeah, with the two by four as
I would. And that's really why, you know, when people
are building homes, it's more of a custom home thing.

(28:51):
You can even run two by six is to get
a rolled insulation. But even that's becoming a little dated
because now what we're seeing there's a little up charge
on it. But a two bay three constructed home you
can do foam and a foam you know, you can
get you know, an R five six and seven on

(29:13):
a foam per inch.

Speaker 3 (29:15):
So it was about one hundred years old, this house is.

Speaker 6 (29:18):
Yeah.

Speaker 1 (29:18):
Yeah.

Speaker 3 (29:19):
Another question is through the years putting. When you put
a window in, you put that cack around it, you know,
I was never good at putting that in smooth. Is
there anything anything easier? Maybe like in a call gun
or well around the window outside.

Speaker 1 (29:36):
You know when you when you said with a cack gun,
I mean that's the type of cocking you would use
for a window, correct.

Speaker 3 (29:44):
Yeah, but in the past I always had it in
the cans.

Speaker 1 (29:46):
Okay, yeah, no, just yeah, just get a regular cocking
for a cocking gun, that's going to be better. So
tell me about what that window is it going to
be bricked to aluminum, wood to brick, brick to aluminum. Right,
so there's two brick okay, but how about the window?

(30:10):
What's that?

Speaker 3 (30:11):
I'm just changing one pain, not the whole window.

Speaker 1 (30:13):
Oh okay, broken, I'm sure. Okay, So it's not really cocky.
You're talking about glazing, compound.

Speaker 3 (30:20):
Glazing whatever you call that.

Speaker 1 (30:22):
Well, the glazing compound in the last thirty years has
improved a lot too. But no, there's they make a
glazing compound in a calking tube and it's got a
square tube. It's more trouble than it's worth.

Speaker 3 (30:36):
So you're recommending the can.

Speaker 1 (30:37):
Just stay with the can, just stay with it. Can
get glazing thirty three. It's a dapt product. Yep, it's
it's it's a it's so much better. I mean it's
like a tough butter now. Yeah, dap dap dap.

Speaker 3 (30:57):
Okay. Yeah, I have never been able to that end.

Speaker 8 (31:00):
Good.

Speaker 3 (31:00):
I guess it just takes a law of experience.

Speaker 1 (31:02):
Yeah. Is that a wood window or is it a
you know, I know it's individual paints. Would okay, here's
here's a little tip to you that will help you
when you get that old glass out and you got
that lad prime.

Speaker 3 (31:16):
Now prime paint, ye, yes, sir, okay, just.

Speaker 1 (31:21):
A flat primer or flat paint. I don't care what
you use. But what will happen or what that will
allow is if it's raw wood and you put that down,
it'll suck that moisture out of that glazing compound.

Speaker 3 (31:35):
M okay.

Speaker 1 (31:36):
But if it's primed, it keeps it in there, and
it keeps it, you know, more trillable prime that let
it dry, I mean an hour and then come back
and hit it with that glazing compound.

Speaker 3 (31:47):
Now, is there still one in like a one inch
putty knife we recommend I know sometimes I've my wet
finger and rub it down.

Speaker 1 (31:53):
Yeah, No, just a one inch putty knife.

Speaker 3 (31:56):
Yeah, okay, you know, I mean very much.

Speaker 1 (31:58):
All right, good enough, you bet bye bye. You know,
it's been a while since I've been able to talk
about that. I mean, what you know, the little individual
panes on a window. We don't have that call very often.
But back in the day used to have old commercial
putty shown my age. Now it was an oil base

(32:20):
and when you first of all that stuff would dry
so rock hard. The biggest part of the hardest part
of that job get the old stuff out. I mean
you'd have to chisel it and grind it. And then
when they went to more of the acrylics, like to
glazing thirty three, it's so you can wet your finger

(32:43):
and smooth that out. I mean, it's so easy, and
it doesn't get super super hard, so it's easily removed. Also,
but back in the day you put that old commercial
putty on there with the oil on bear wood, it
sucked that oil right out of that compound as you
were doing it, and it would be difficult to move

(33:06):
that around. But the glazing compound of today is much easier.
But prime that wood and just you know, that'll help
you so much. It's just like when you're doing tuck
pointing on brick and you get the mortar out, you
wet that joint so it doesn't suck all the moisture
out of your mortar. So uh yeah, thinking a little

(33:27):
bit ahead there, a little tip there. All right, let's
take a break. We'll come back, kind of wrap up
our weekend and take your calls. You're at home with
Gary Sullivan.

Speaker 5 (33:35):
Help for your home is just a click away at
Garysullivan online dot com. This He's at home with Gary Sullivan.

Speaker 1 (33:58):
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(36:23):
All right back in it we go twelve minutes before
the top of the hour. Don't forget if you have
not checked out our podcast to do so. It's on
the iHeart app and you can hit the magnifying glass
at home with Gary Salvan. Each weekend, Danny takes an
hour of the show. He is very hard for you
on that do. I I work very hard for you

(36:46):
on that you do, and so it's available to you.
They're about forty minutes long, and if you missed an
hour on Saturday and you missed the first hour, you
can just pick it up right there. Also, we had
a conversation with Adam Smith when we were talking about
paint strippers, Dumont Global, the peel Away, the smart strip

(37:08):
products and the difference of types of finishes they remove.
Well worth a listen and get some good information on
even testing that paint, on what type of paint stripper
you need to use. One doesn't catch all the different
codings that have been out for over one hundred years,

(37:29):
So testing it might very well be the key to
your success. And they have the test kit and he
explains all that. So if you get an opportunity to
pick up the podcast, have edit have it. Let's go
to Keith Keith Welcome.

Speaker 9 (37:45):
Hey, I'm over here on Detton, Maryland, living at the
house in Delaware. Last summer, I decided to put down
some millings four inches of millions in my driveway twelve
wonner square feet.

Speaker 6 (37:59):
Okay, I came in and put it down.

Speaker 9 (38:00):
Costs me twelve hundred dollars. And there's there's a there's
a surface stone on it that's loose, but under the
surface stone it is as hard as asphalt. Is there
anything I can put on there to tighten up the
surface stone so that it doesn't roll around like it does,
or make it more palatable to the car on my
knees when I'm working on something. Boy, good question, huh.

Speaker 1 (38:23):
Yeah, yeah, I'm not familiar with one. To be honest
with you, there may be I wonder if there's even
a you say it's hard as hard as a rock
underneath that, then it's kind of like all one piece.
Then there there are enough.

Speaker 2 (38:44):
Go ahead, I'm sorry if you move the stone out
of the way. Yeah, the millet's underneath.

Speaker 9 (38:50):
As hard as a rock because he rolled it with
an asshole roller. Then of course it got hot, and
that's what it's supposed to do. But the stone on
the top loose, you know, and you know sometimes I'm
not if you're working on a car or something, I'm
kneeling down and you know it's hard on the knees, right.

Speaker 1 (39:03):
Right, right, Okay, I got the pictures. I got the
picture now. Yeah, yeah, I'm not familiar with a product
to go over there. Somebody else may know when Keith,
but I do not know of a product for that, Okay,
just wondering. All right, keep listening.

Speaker 2 (39:24):
What I appreciate, I keep listening.

Speaker 3 (39:27):
Thank you?

Speaker 1 (39:27):
All right, very good. Yeah, I'm not familiar with the
product that can do that for you. Uh, Norma welcome, Yes, Hi.

Speaker 10 (39:35):
Gary, Hello, thanks for taking this call.

Speaker 8 (39:39):
I'm up against a new furnace or we're trying to
debate this house we have. It was built nineteen fifty
two like a kit house, so the is going bad
and we were thinking about doing splits. The house is
nine hundred and sixty feet big, it's only one floor.

Speaker 10 (39:59):
Little answer the basement.

Speaker 1 (40:01):
Okay, and what your thoughts are on that, well, it's
certainly an option. Do you use the basement?

Speaker 3 (40:09):
Is it?

Speaker 1 (40:09):
Is it a finished basement?

Speaker 10 (40:12):
Partially?

Speaker 1 (40:13):
Yeah? I think what I would do if if it
were me, because we're dealing with, you know, two different
types of systems, and the first thing you're probably going
to ask is well, which one, what do they cost,
what's the difference in them? And how many would I need?

(40:33):
And you know, so those are all legitimate questions. And
I think what it comes down to, if it were I,
is to get that information from somebody that's going to
come to your home. Size the home, because you're going
to have to have your your regular furnace sized. Also
depending on the size, is this electric or is it gas?

Speaker 10 (40:55):
The current furnace is fourteen years old and is a
gas furnace, Yes.

Speaker 1 (40:59):
Furnace, And so you'll have questions about efficiencies, you know,
how efficient you want it and what that cost would be,
and then do the get the bid on the mini split. Also,
it's going to add some flexibility to you. Mini splits
are really nice, and people listening right now, if they

(41:21):
got like a two story home and kids are moved out,
maybe you just when you're changing out, if you put
mini splits or zone heating in the upstairs, that that's
a money saver. But I'd like to know what the
difference in prices on the systems are, what you know,
what you're going to be required to accomplish, what you're

(41:42):
trying to accomplish exactly. So I think I think first
step would really do you have a contractor with the
heating including that you work with?

Speaker 10 (41:52):
Oh yeah, and he's a good guy, okay, and talk
to him. But I just didn't know if you had
a certain brand name splits that you kind of know
about that you have not.

Speaker 1 (42:05):
To give you a brand name on top of a
brand name. I've had different guests. I think it was Fujitech.
I've had them on a couple of times, but it's
probably been about three years since i've had them on.
That's the brand I'm familiar with. But you know, for
me to sit here and do a you know, consumer
report on the brands. Not so much. I tell people

(42:26):
all the time, not trying to evade the question, but
you know, getting those bids and really, you know, specific
about your house, and the most important part is working
with a good HVAC company that you trust in. It
sounds like you got one. I would really, you know,
get my bids and then lean on him. A good

(42:46):
HVA company. HVAC company, I always say, they're not going
to carry a cheap mini split, They're not going to
carry a cheap furnace because their reputation is based on
the product they're using. Right, So if you've got a good,
reputable person that's been successful in your area, I'm you know,

(43:06):
you know, I would really trust the brand that he's using.

Speaker 10 (43:09):
To be honest with you, I just I guess we'll
wait to talk to him. We don't see him until
tuesdays when he.

Speaker 1 (43:15):
Has I think that, yeah, And I would use that
as a learning experience. A lot of time people think
about bids as oh, you know, I'm you know, comparing
and I'll get to I'll save some money by doing that.
And really the best thing about the bids is you
can see what different people are thinking if you get
multiple bids, but if you got somebody you really trust

(43:37):
and somebody's been good to you, I'd use him as
your education piece. You know. He may tell you just
by the layout. He goes like, well, you're going to
need like three systems. By the time you do that,
you could buy two furnaces and and it's the end
of the subject. But I don't know the lay of
the land. I know it's not, you know, a huge house,
but with that half finished basement, there's going to be

(43:59):
some things that have come in the play that you're
gonna learn when you have him walk you through both systems. Yeah, alright, Okay,
there you go. Thanks Norma. Have a great weekend. All right, Danny, boy,
there goes another weekend pretty quickly. Huh, yes, sir, thanks
for your help, Danny. I know it's been a busy weekend,

(44:20):
and I love busy weekends. You get some cooler weather
and kind of enjoy the weekend. I know, Danny, he's
gonna be on vacation. I'm really really jealous, but good
Lord willing, I'll be back next weekend for more at
Home with Garry Sullivan.

Speaker 5 (45:10):
If you don't have a list of things to do
around the house. Gary will find something for you at
what eight hundred eight two three tak You're at home
with Gary Sullivan

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