Episode Transcript
Available transcripts are automatically generated. Complete accuracy is not guaranteed.
Speaker 1 (00:29):
Well, it's the weekend. Welcome You're at home with Gary Sullivan.
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(01:12):
thirty five dollars. Again, it's jawscleans dot Com. Well, we've
been talking home improvement and different projects we have around
the home. I invite you to join us if you
care too. It's eight hundred eight two three eight two
five five. As I watched the news this past week,
and I think a lot of us throughout the country,
(01:34):
we're following the path of Hurricane Debbie as it went
up through Florida and South Carolina, North Carolina and on
up to the coast. We're always talking on this show.
It's you know, you can't really waterproof. You can do
a degree, but it's really about water control, and when
you get to a point where you have so much water,
(01:58):
you're not going to be able to control it. So
it's you know, water control is one thing, waterproofing is another.
And yeah, roofing, Oh my water control. I was just
(02:25):
visualizing water control and you're not really able to water
control with a you know, a foot of rain and
it's washing out streets and stuff. So really it is
about uh, doing what you can do. And I think
one of the most important things you can do is
have proper grading around the house. And if you can
have grading around the house that moves the water away,
(02:48):
you're going to help it. But there is a limited
amount you can do. And of course that's why we
have some pumps and wells in our home. We're bringing
water in, we're pumping it out. But it's the lay
of the land is flatt's there's not much you can do.
I mean, there really isn't. That's when you see people
with sandbags and everything else, still trying to control the water, right,
(03:10):
but you're limited. So anybody that had some issues around
the house. Granted, when I start talking about water control
after a storm like that, I've had people say, well,
you know, you can't control the water, and I get that.
I get that. But what you want to do is
if you know, we don't have those storms, thank goodness,
every year. I guess some areas may. But if you
(03:34):
have it where you can control it for a short
period of time in a good you know, one inch
an hour rain and move that away, that's great. Another
thing if you have and I'm seeing this a lot
because we're to seem to be having more bigger storms.
I remember, like thirty years ago, we had four and
(03:57):
five inch gutters on homes. I'm seeing people change out
gutter sizes from five inch to six inch because if
the roof is steep, that five inch gutter just cannot
contain that amount of rainfall and move it away from
the home. It's too small. And a lot of times
(04:21):
people will start installing gutter helmets on to keep leaves
and debris out of the gutter. That's good, but I
think you can get a rating on those how much
rain it can take and get the water into the
gutter and move it away from your house. And I
(04:41):
think it's like five inches of rain, so it's a
lot of water. Butt It's still really dependent on the
size of gutter that you have. So if you're building
a home or remodeling a home, if you're going to
take the direction of doing a gutter helmet and gutter
guard over the existing gutter, I'd really recommend getting up
(05:05):
to that next size. All right, let's go to uh
Ron Ron.
Speaker 2 (05:09):
Welcome, Good morning, Gary. Questions about unpleasant toilets. The toilet bowl? Uh,
what what? Just what would you use to clean the
inside of it? And particularly I was trying yesterday the
I don't know what you call it for the little
holes around the under side of the at the rim
(05:31):
of the bowl. Yeah, yeah, and you know, I try
to use an old truth Russian.
Speaker 3 (05:38):
Uh.
Speaker 2 (05:38):
Is there a product you suggested to clean it? And
also is there a tool for those that you can
get at those little holes.
Speaker 1 (05:46):
I'll tell you, for those little holes, the best tool
you can get is a little compact mirror and uh,
you know, maybe like a one sixteenth twist drill bit
and run that on that compact mirror underneath the rim
of that bowl so that you can see and you
can see the ones that are plugged, and then just
(06:07):
take the twist the drill bit between your thumb and
your forefinger and just kind of work that hard water deposits.
That's what it is. It's calcium carbonate in there that's
just kind of clogged up those homes of those holes,
and that drill bit'll poke those things through. So that's
how I would clean those out, because if it's not
(06:29):
flushing all the waste, a lot of times it's just
not transferring the amount of water in that closet down
into that bowl.
Speaker 2 (06:39):
Is there a particular cleaning gel or device or liquid
or something you'd recommend just for general maintenance to keep
it clean.
Speaker 1 (06:48):
Yeah, you can use the well. Just right before, at
the top of the ar, I was talking about a
product called cream Cleanser. I don't know if you heard
that or not, but that's the best one I've ever used.
I'm not saying that's the only one. I'm just saying
that's the best one I ever used. You can get
that at jawscleans dot com. But you might try a
soft scrub. You might try Barkeeper's Friend for really hard deposits.
(07:13):
There's a pummy stone, which is pummus that will clean
you know, really deep stains or hard crusty stains on porcelain.
Those three usually do a pretty good job. If you
have a really stubborn one, or you're looking for my
all star candidate, it would be the cream cleanser by Jaws.
Speaker 2 (07:34):
I appreciate it. And my toilet bowl anounced shine. Thank
you very much.
Speaker 1 (07:39):
All right, thank you much. I appreciate it. Take care.
That is a good thing, quite honestly. You know, when
water just sits in a bowl, especially when you have
maybe some toilets that aren't used as often as they are.
Sometimes even the trap dries out. The water dries out
of the trap or out of the bowl, or it
(07:59):
dries in the that rim where the water is transferred
from the closet into the bowl, and you get some
impediments in there, and then when you flush, there's not
enough volume and enough force to remove waste in the
first place. Everybody thinks is we got a problem with
the drain. You know, we got something clogging up the drain.
(08:19):
And yeah, sometimes you do, kids throw toys in there
and everything else. But one of the biggest reasons is
just those ports underneath the rim of the toilet are clogged,
and an easy way to get rid of that again
is compact mirror. Just running around that bottom edge of that,
take a look see of what's being clogged. And then
a little twist drill bit used to try. A little
(08:42):
nylon ties will sometimes poke it through, but if it's
pretty thick crustacean, I'd say just a little twist drill
bit and you know you're up against the rim. You're
not really going to scratch the porcelain. Don't use a drill,
Just between your thumb and your forefinger. All right. Our
phone number there's eight hundred eight two three, eight two
(09:02):
five five will continue with your calls. You're at home
with Gary Sullivan.
Speaker 3 (09:06):
It's the weekend and you have fixed questions. Give Gary
a call at one eight hundred eight two three talk.
This is at home with Gary Sullivan.
Speaker 1 (09:31):
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(12:02):
Nineteen minutes after the top of they are at home
with Gary Sullivan taking a look at maybe some issues
we might have around the home. And you know, many
of our homes are brick and masonry construction, and is
what's acceptable and not acceptable when it comes to cracks
(12:23):
and mortar joints. In other words, a lot of times
when you look at a brick home and you got
the mortar joints, you'll have some shrinkage cracks of the
mortar that is pulled away from the brick. But what
is acceptable now, in the nineteen seventies, late seventies, mid seventies,
(12:46):
they started putting wheepholes behind brick, so the brick is
off the framing of the house and there's a gap
behind the brick and the house. And the reason for
that is if they're was penetration of water getting through
that brick wall due to missing mortar or cracked mortar,
(13:11):
it had a way to escape. It wouldn't be right
on the wood construction of the house. So there was
a gap there, and the brick is you know, like
I said, there's a gap between that and the construction.
And then down at the very bottom of that wall,
I think it's every sixth vertical mortar joint there is
(13:31):
a little vent, there's a method or there's an opening
for water that would get behind that wall to escape.
Maybe say clocking around windows would missing clocking would allow
water to get in, may find its way behind or
behind the facia board, in the gutters, or through cracked
mortar or missing mortar. But what is acceptable and for
(13:56):
most cases you don't need to worry if you can
get like your fingernail in it. Now, there are certainly
some products and applications that you can seal like a
thirty second of an inch of a crack, but it's
not really a patch. I know, Chimney RX makes a
(14:19):
mortar joint and crack sealing. It almost is the viscasi
of milk. It's white, it dries clear, you paint it on.
It seals that crack. Is that something I'm in a
Russian do? Probably not. But when that crack gets to
an eighth of an inch, that's not acceptable. Okay, anything
(14:40):
larger than an eighth of an inch not accessible acceptable.
So you have a couple options there. Sometimes people will
use a calking I'm not a fan of that. What
I am a fan of is quite honestly getting a
(15:02):
cult chisel out there, chiseling that joint out, getting a
mortar and retuck point that brick, So an eighth of
an inch is kind of where you draw the line.
There needs to be something done at that point. Now,
(15:23):
there are different calking materials that are designed to look
like a mortar. They're grain color, some even have a texture.
They can be used on vertical surfaces, and that can
solve that particular problem. But I think the true way
(15:45):
is to really go ahead and take that mortar joint out,
clean that out, Wet that area that you're going to remortar,
Wet the brick itself so it doesn't suck the moreture
out of the mortar itself, and go ahead and retuck
(16:05):
point that. Now, know that all mortar is not the
same color. If you have a you know, mortar from
thirty years ago, and you get a mortar patch and
you mix it with water, there's a good chance that
that gray and that mortar patch is not going to
(16:26):
match the gray that came in, you know, the powdered mortar.
So there are tints, and that's where a real mason,
I think really earns their money is their ability to
tint mortar. Because if you have let's just say it,
you've seen it, I've seen it, you get ten cracks
(16:49):
on the mortar joints. A couple of mortar, you know,
ten vertical mortar joints on a chimney, and you get
up there with a mortar mix you mix it up
and you just start on that out and patching it
and they don't match. It looks like a jigsaw puzzle
on your chimney. Looks terrible. So if it's something you're
gonna do yourself, you're going to have to determine. Mix
(17:14):
a little bit of the mortar up, get an old
piece of glass, put a doll up onto the glass,
turn that mortar or that glass to the other side
to view the mortar. That's what it's gonna look like
when it's dried. So then you have to determine, just
with a naked eye, whether more black needs to be added.
In other words, it needs to be gray er? Does
(17:36):
it need to be reddish? Tan? More tan? You know,
so a beige, a red, and a black those are
like the tints for mortar. And then of course you're
gonna have to uh mix up enough to use to
In other words, you make sure you all your prep
work is already done. The more dreds have been cleared,
(17:59):
the bread have been moistened, and then you have mixed
up enough to use so that we don't have to
guess again because you're probably not gonna come up to
an exact match again. So mixing that up and again
that glass is a good old trick because even when
it's in the mortar bucket, it's gonna look different than
(18:20):
when it's dried on the chimney. So using that doll
up on the old glasses is really a great way
to determine what that's gonna look when it's dry. But again,
those little I've had one mortar joint where it was
probably about a sixteenth of an inch that actually caused
some problems. And like I said, chimney rx dot com
(18:44):
has a lot of different chimney repair products and they've
got one for mortar joint cracks, and I think it
covers cracks, seals cracks up to an eighth of an inch,
but nothing more than that. It's strict goes into a
patch at that point. Also, if you see cracks at
(19:05):
mortar or brick stairstepping cracks, keep an eye on those
the ones that go totally straight up vertically on a
corner of that house. That's probably the ones that can
cause you the most problems down the road, So it's
something you want to keep an eye on and actually
mark to see if it's continuing to move. As we
(19:26):
talk about concrete, of course there's also sidewalks and patches
and resurfacing. Peter Dish from Dice Coatings will walk us
through those projects next. As we continue, You're at home
with Gary Sullivan.
Speaker 3 (19:52):
Fix it right with a call to Gary'sullivan at one
eight eight two three talk This is at home with Gary.
Speaker 1 (20:16):
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(22:32):
at home with Carrie Salvan. It's time for our project
of the week. Now, take a look at some of
the concrete surfaces, just kind of imagine them around your home,
the patty of the garage floor, the sidewalks, probably some pits,
probably some discoloration, probably some cracks, And you know, we
(22:54):
talk a lot about crack fillers and different things, but
there's there's a particular product I want to talk to
about today. It's rock Patch and it's totally different than
what you're used to us talking about. So joining me
is our friend Peter Dice from Dice Codings.
Speaker 4 (23:10):
Peter, how are you, good morning, Gary, I'm doing great,
how are you doing.
Speaker 1 (23:15):
Wonderful. We've got some beautiful weather today, so life is good.
Speaker 4 (23:19):
It is definitely good.
Speaker 1 (23:21):
So Peter, maybe give an overview of what rock patch is.
Speaker 4 (23:28):
Rock patch is a one hundred percent stone coating that
you would use. It's a filler, leveler and resurfacer. So basically,
if you have any concrete that has holes, cracks, maybe
some widespread pitting, maybe in your garage for instance, anywhere
(23:50):
where you just want to fix and refurbish that surface.
This is your alternative to having to create, you know,
clouds of dust and mixing water and constantly remixing things
to get more of it to cover a large area.
This is something that is a ready to go pre
(24:14):
mixed system. It's in the in the bucket. You open
it up, give it a quick stir, and you just
spread it on and you push it into the holes
and into the cracks and it can not only you know,
fix some of those flaws, but you could even use
it as a complete resurfacer over a whole area using
(24:38):
a little squeegee trowel, so you can completely resurface and
give it a whole new poured concrete look, or you
can just fix the odd place prior to putting a
decorative coating on, and that way will nothing will visually
show through. And the beauty of it is you don't
need to worry about mixing, you know, I don't want
(24:59):
to have to sit there and you know, make sure
I've got the right amount of powder and the right
amount of water and I've mixed it right and all
of that stuff, because sometimes that can go sideways. Sure,
this is designed to make.
Speaker 1 (25:11):
It easy, right. So I got a lot of questions
that I'm sure a lot of my listeners are thinking
about right now, and that is, first of all, it
sounds like a wonderful, wonderful product. Second of all, we've
got to get this stuff in stores where people can
run up and get some. I know we can get
this online and we're going to talk about that. But
you know, one of the questions I get asked more
(25:33):
than anything on this show. It's either decks or it's concrete.
You know, the pitting, the crack. And one thing concrete
is guaranteed to do is crack. One thing that's guaranteed
to do is pit is eventually ugly is out. It
doesn't always wear out. And this is non cementatious. So
the first question is how about color. I know color
(25:56):
varies in concrete from you know, Georgia to New York,
California to the Midwest. They is it a like gray
or where is the color distinction here?
Speaker 4 (26:07):
Yes, it's it's a light gray, not super super light,
but by no means dark. It's it's very mid tone
to light. It's it's very desirable as a color.
Speaker 5 (26:20):
And uh.
Speaker 4 (26:21):
There are also some additional colors that are going to
be added in the next few months as well. But yeah,
basically you're you're right. I mean, concrete will ugly out
and and you know need some some refurbishment and that's
what this will do.
Speaker 1 (26:38):
How about bonding. I know concrete doesn't like to stick
to concrete, but your rock patch isn't concrete, that's right.
Speaker 4 (26:46):
And uh, and and it will bond beautifully and it'll
lock in. The key though, is that if you're going
to be doing this, you do want to give it
a quick wash first. You want to make sure that
there's no dirt that's in eating the anchoring and the
bond into the pores of the surface. So that's easy.
You just give it a quick wash, make sure it's dry,
(27:08):
and then you just you apply your new surface or
fill your holes or your cracks, and it dries pretty
quick and you didn't have to worry about, you know,
the cloud of dust or the other thing is too
since there's no actual cement in this material. Let's say
that you have a garage floor and you happen to
(27:30):
be in a state where you get snow and there's
salt that's put on the roads and things like that.
Salt loves to eat concrete, it loves to pit concrete.
Speaker 5 (27:42):
Oh yeah, So you know.
Speaker 4 (27:46):
The idea there, for instance, is if you have a
garage floor, give it a good pressure wash, get all
that stuff out of there. But then you put this on.
It'll fill it and it will not pit and it
will not get damaged. Buy any salt later that comes down.
Speaker 1 (28:02):
Onto that floor, and you don't need to seal it. Right,
I would seal it, I would see it.
Speaker 4 (28:08):
I would seal it all right. Well, basically the reason
for that is, yes, you know it'll stand up to stuff,
but at the same time, you also wanted to stay
as clean as possible make it look new. So basically,
if you've resurfaced the floor, okay, and you put the
sealer on, you've got a lock there.
Speaker 1 (28:30):
It's there.
Speaker 4 (28:31):
It's not going to allow any dirt to grab on.
It's gonna stay clean, it's going to stay new looking.
And if it's just a patch, maybe you're putting an
epoxy or something over it. But now you've got a
perfectly smooth, pristine surface to put that coating over.
Speaker 1 (28:47):
Excellent. So another question. I always have lots of questions
for you, Peter, because you are the answer man. One
of the questions I can ask a lot is the
expansion joints in between slabs of concrete. Over time, you know,
the movement of the soil beneath it, those expansion joints crack,
some weeds grow up, and you got to clean that out.
I'd always tell people, and I have told people forever,
(29:11):
don't patch that with concrete because it's going to crack
out because it's moving. And I always talked about using
a eurothane self leveling cooking. Can you use rock patch
in that area, in that open expansion joint?
Speaker 4 (29:29):
You can, But at the end of the day, what
you really want to do is if you have a
nice clean expansion joint line which is not ugly, I
mean it's there for a purpose. It looks very neat
and tidy. I would just leave it there, so I
would coat everything. But I would take that trowel, for instance,
(29:50):
and I would just cut along that line just to
keep it open. So that that way, if any of
the slabs want to move around, as they will tend
to do with it, spansion, contraction, freeze, thaw, they'll just
do their thing and nothing is ever going to be
you know that place. Everything is going to stay looking great.
Speaker 1 (30:09):
Yeah, well I tell people just even to put sand
in it.
Speaker 4 (30:12):
You can do that, sure, but you know, other than that,
you know, if you've got a nice clean line there,
leave a clean line.
Speaker 5 (30:20):
There's nothing terribly.
Speaker 4 (30:21):
Wrong with that.
Speaker 1 (30:22):
Is the rock patch when you're talking about doing a coding,
because that's a whole another area, and the rock patch
seems to satisfy that. The is it self leveling or
do you trial it out or how's the application on network?
Speaker 4 (30:42):
Basically when you travel it, or you can use a
squeegee trial which we have, or you can get you know,
in a bunch of places from a standing position. You
just spread it on. And the key with this is
use a little bit of pressure while you're doing it.
So in other words, when you put this on, you're
going to press firmly so that the rock patch goes
(31:05):
in and locks onto everything. You don't leave a lot
of voids and air pockets underneath. You just press firmly
and you just make it connect with the surface that's there,
and you just make it smooth. When you put it on,
it goes on like butter. It's beautiful to apply. You're
not struggling. You just open up the can and just
(31:26):
spread it on. It goes on like a dream, and
at that point you leave it just the way that
you want it, so that if you're going to be
putting a coating over top, as you've mentioned, now you've
got a surface that isn't going to be transmitting any
kind of texture or any unsightly stuff or even for instance,
if you try putting let's say, an epoxy over a
(31:48):
floor that has cracks in it. For instance, if you
do that, the epoxy will go on, but in some
places you're going to see that crack wanting to transmit
through and just show It's not that you're still going
to have a crack, but you're going to see that
minor indentation there, So with rock patch, once you've done that,
(32:08):
it drives quick. It's an odorless, easy water based application.
Now you've got a perfectly smooth, pristine surface. When you
put that coating over top, it's going to look like
a million bucks. It's going to be smooth, it's going
to look great. None of what you had there before
is going to be showing through, and it's just going
to be perfect.
Speaker 1 (32:28):
Can I use the rock patch and then put like
safe track the clear ceiling over.
Speaker 6 (32:34):
It and just let it be Absolutely it's a beautiful surface.
So if you've got a porch or a slab or
a patio, you don't want to do anything other than
just fill any of the cracking or the pitting that
you've got there, and you want to leave it smooth
and just a nice, appealing soft gray. You just put
(32:55):
on the rock patch and then twenty four hours later
you apply the track safe sealer and you have an
anti slip, a beautiful surface that's protected from dirt or
any kind of stains, and it'll just look like a
brand new slab and it will stay looking that way
for a good long time and you don't need to
worry about salt.
Speaker 1 (33:15):
How about oil stains. Is the rock patch resistant to
chemical damage?
Speaker 4 (33:21):
It is? It is resistant to that. But at the
same time, if you're going to be having a bunch
of chemicals around, all the more reason why you're going
to be sealing it. That's celant that you apply is
going to be that second layer of protection. So it's
going to stay looking great, it's going to repel the stains.
It's going to be solid. It's made of stone, and
(33:43):
you know it'll work with.
Speaker 5 (33:44):
You and it'll live with you.
Speaker 1 (33:46):
So the die Hard, you know, industrial epoxy floor coating
that we've talked about several times in the last couple
of months, that can be applied over the rock patch also,
and how's that going.
Speaker 4 (34:00):
It's going fantastic. It's a really great product, the die Hard,
as we've discussed previously, it's an industrial strength epoxy coating
and you apply that and you know, if you happen
to have a forklift that's your home, well you're all
set because it's very, very, very very durable. So, I mean,
(34:22):
it looks beautiful, it's got a nice sheene. It's very
showroomy looking, so it's beautiful in your garage, but you
can also use it in your factory. You can use
it in your commercial property and your warehouse. You can
use it everywhere. But the beauty is that, for instance,
if you had used rock patch first because the floor
(34:43):
wasn't looking great, you apply the die Hard over top.
And die Hard, by the way, it has a lot
of body to it, so it's not like a thin
water based epoxy paint. When you put this on, it
will even partially fill cracks and things itself. So you
put this on your surface, you're going to have a
(35:04):
very very hard work, hard wearing surface sure, and it's
going to you know, outperform perhaps other things that we've
used before.
Speaker 1 (35:13):
Well. A lot of options for garage floors, a lot
of options for crack fillers. Yours is unique. Is it
sold in quarts? Gallons? Five gallons? How's it sold?
Speaker 4 (35:24):
Well? The Diehard two gallon kit is just basically a
big old box. It's got all the stuff in there.
It also includes flakes if you want to put flakes
on your floor.
Speaker 5 (35:37):
It's cleaner in there.
Speaker 4 (35:40):
And the the double kit that we're offering now is retailing.
You can get it through Home Depot for one hundred
and fifty nine dollars and basically, you know, just apply that.
That'll cover you know, five hundred square feet. Okay, and
you're good to go.
Speaker 1 (35:59):
Very good. How about the rock Patch for patching.
Speaker 4 (36:04):
Rock Patch, same thing. You can get that also through
Home Depot and Lows. Same goes with Diehard also at Low's.
So you know, basic and you know, give us a
call if you want to know anything. We'll walk you
through it. We'll answer any of your questions. We're here
all the time to make sure that you're successful and happy.
And we know that with these items, you know, you'll
(36:26):
do some beautiful work and you'll be happy for a.
Speaker 5 (36:28):
Long long time.
Speaker 1 (36:29):
Very good. It's Dice d ai chcodings dot com. You
can check out a roller Rock, a roller Rock, the
Diehard Max POxy that we were just talking about, the
rock Patch and Peter, thank you so much for joining us.
Appreciate it.
Speaker 4 (36:46):
Gary, it's always a pleasure speaking with you. Have a
wonderful weekend.
Speaker 1 (36:49):
Take you're the same, Thank you, my friend. Take care
all right, it's called rock Patch. Check that out and
we'll come back. We'll take your calls. Our numbers eight
hundred eight two three eight two five five year at
home with Gary Sullivan.
Speaker 3 (37:04):
Help for your home is just a click away at
Garysullivan online dot com. This is at home with Garysullivan.
Speaker 1 (37:27):
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dot com. All right, back at it we go. I
(39:58):
hope the conversation based on resurfacing concrete, making patches with
the product rock Patch. What's beneficial and hopefully it helps
you with your masonry repairs. All right, our phone number
if you'd like to grab a line happy to talk
about your home project, it's eight hundred eight two three
eight two five five and Martin welcome, Hey.
Speaker 5 (40:22):
Gary, good morning morning. So thank you for that prior segment.
They're on rock Patch. I've been wondering for years why
they don't have something that you just opened up the
can and spread it on the whole Yeah, in your concrete,
you know, And finally it's here.
Speaker 1 (40:35):
All right, right, I agree, I agree, And of course
you know, with this all new vinyl resins and everything
that I've entered the market in the last five years,
I think that made those projects products possible. So yeah,
good good stuff.
Speaker 5 (40:49):
So is it available at home Depot and Lows or
do you have to order it there?
Speaker 1 (40:53):
I think it's home depot dot com, So you don't
think it's on the shelf or lows dot com or
at that dice Codings dot com.
Speaker 5 (41:02):
Yeah, all right, question about water heaters. I'm here in
Connecticut and our electricity rates have skyrocketed this month. Friends
and neighbors are telling me, the ones that have already
gotten their bills, their average bill's up one hundred dollars.
And so I have an eighty gallon electric water heater
and I'm a single guy. I have a two family
(41:26):
house that supplies the whole house, and you know, my
bill is running, you know, in the ninety to one
hundred dollars range already because I have a separate meter
for the water heater. So two thoughts, what would be
more energy efficient? Should I lower the temperature so it
(41:46):
doesn't have to heat up as much, but I end
up using more hot water? Or should I kick up
the temperature setting ten or fifteen degrees so the water
is hotter and then when I use it, I will
use less of it. But it has to be painted
at a higher temperature.
Speaker 1 (42:04):
You know, to do the configuration error to figure it out.
I don't really have a quick answer on that. It's
a good question. But I do know some of the
water heaters, once they're set, you really don't want to
go below like one hundred and twenty degrees because then
you enter a realm of bacterias. And then when you
(42:27):
go too high. You certainly have anti scald devices on
fixtures in different things, but it may shut your water
off because yeah, well to that device, right, right, So
I don't know. It is a problem with electric water
(42:50):
heaters too, to a point you can't get well, you
couldn't get you can now where you couldn't get an
energy start rating on an electric water here, so they
consume more energy than say a gas But now, what
how old is that particular water heater?
Speaker 5 (43:14):
You're not going to believe this. It has a copper tank,
so it's never going to rust. Okay, it was actually
installed in nineteen forty eight.
Speaker 1 (43:24):
Is that right. That's awesome.
Speaker 5 (43:27):
It's it's incredible. It's absolutely incredible.
Speaker 1 (43:30):
Yeah.
Speaker 5 (43:31):
Yeah, but it's a copper tank, so no rust through right, right.
Every few years I changed the heating elements and I'm
good to go. Right, I hear I've updated a thermostat
or two, you know, over the years, she keeps on going.
Speaker 1 (43:48):
Yeah, yeah, except the efficiency so different. Seeing what they're
doing now is they're basically creating water heaters that are
available that have a heat pump on on them, so
the right every time it is slower. Plus it's a
big water heater. I don't know, I would be I
(44:09):
would be nervous about changing the settings, to be honest,
I don't think it's gonna be that beneficial to you.
All Right, thank you, all right, my friend, take care
all right. Uh Joe, you'll be up first when we
come back from the break. It's eight hundred eight two
three eight two five five. You're at home with Gary Sullivan.
Speaker 3 (44:58):
Start a project and don't know how to fit miss
call it Gary at one eight hundred and eighty two
three talk. You're at home with Gary Sulivagory h
Well, it's the weekend. Welcome You're at home with Gary Sullivan.
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(01:12):
thirty five dollars. Again, it's jawscleans dot Com. Well, we've
been talking home improvement and different projects we have around
the home. I invite you to join us if you
care too. It's eight hundred eight two three eight two
five five. As I watched the news this past week,
and I think a lot of us throughout the country,
(01:34):
we're following the path of Hurricane Debbie as it went
up through Florida and South Carolina, North Carolina and on
up to the coast. We're always talking on this show.
It's you know, you can't really waterproof. You can do
a degree, but it's really about water control, and when
you get to a point where you have so much water,
(01:58):
you're not going to be able to control it. So
it's you know, water control is one thing, waterproofing is another.
And yeah, roofing, Oh my water control. I was just
(02:25):
visualizing water control and you're not really able to water
control with a you know, a foot of rain and
it's washing out streets and stuff. So really it is
about uh, doing what you can do. And I think
one of the most important things you can do is
have proper grading around the house. And if you can
have grading around the house that moves the water away,
(02:48):
you're going to help it. But there is a limited
amount you can do. And of course that's why we
have some pumps and wells in our home. We're bringing
water in, we're pumping it out. But it's the lay
of the land is flatt's there's not much you can do.
I mean, there really isn't. That's when you see people
with sandbags and everything else, still trying to control the water, right,
(03:10):
but you're limited. So anybody that had some issues around
the house. Granted, when I start talking about water control
after a storm like that, I've had people say, well,
you know, you can't control the water, and I get that.
I get that. But what you want to do is
if you know, we don't have those storms, thank goodness,
every year. I guess some areas may. But if you
(03:34):
have it where you can control it for a short
period of time in a good you know, one inch
an hour rain and move that away, that's great. Another
thing if you have and I'm seeing this a lot
because we're to seem to be having more bigger storms.
I remember, like thirty years ago, we had four and
(03:57):
five inch gutters on homes. I'm seeing people change out
gutter sizes from five inch to six inch because if
the roof is steep, that five inch gutter just cannot
contain that amount of rainfall and move it away from
the home. It's too small. And a lot of times
(04:21):
people will start installing gutter helmets on to keep leaves
and debris out of the gutter. That's good, but I
think you can get a rating on those how much
rain it can take and get the water into the
gutter and move it away from your house. And I
(04:41):
think it's like five inches of rain, so it's a
lot of water. Butt It's still really dependent on the
size of gutter that you have. So if you're building
a home or remodeling a home, if you're going to
take the direction of doing a gutter helmet and gutter
guard over the existing gutter, I'd really recommend getting up
(05:05):
to that next size. All right, let's go to uh
Ron Ron.
Speaker 2 (05:09):
Welcome, Good morning, Gary. Questions about unpleasant toilets. The toilet bowl? Uh,
what what? Just what would you use to clean the
inside of it? And particularly I was trying yesterday the
I don't know what you call it for the little
holes around the under side of the at the rim
(05:31):
of the bowl. Yeah, yeah, and you know, I try
to use an old truth Russian.
Speaker 3 (05:38):
Uh.
Speaker 2 (05:38):
Is there a product you suggested to clean it? And
also is there a tool for those that you can
get at those little holes.
Speaker 1 (05:46):
I'll tell you, for those little holes, the best tool
you can get is a little compact mirror and uh,
you know, maybe like a one sixteenth twist drill bit
and run that on that compact mirror underneath the rim
of that bowl so that you can see and you
can see the ones that are plugged, and then just
(06:07):
take the twist the drill bit between your thumb and
your forefinger and just kind of work that hard water deposits.
That's what it is. It's calcium carbonate in there that's
just kind of clogged up those homes of those holes,
and that drill bit'll poke those things through. So that's
how I would clean those out, because if it's not
(06:29):
flushing all the waste, a lot of times it's just
not transferring the amount of water in that closet down
into that bowl.
Speaker 2 (06:39):
Is there a particular cleaning gel or device or liquid
or something you'd recommend just for general maintenance to keep
it clean.
Speaker 1 (06:48):
Yeah, you can use the well. Just right before, at
the top of the ar, I was talking about a
product called cream Cleanser. I don't know if you heard
that or not, but that's the best one I've ever used.
I'm not saying that's the only one. I'm just saying
that's the best one I ever used. You can get
that at jawscleans dot com. But you might try a
soft scrub. You might try Barkeeper's Friend for really hard deposits.
(07:13):
There's a pummy stone, which is pummus that will clean
you know, really deep stains or hard crusty stains on porcelain.
Those three usually do a pretty good job. If you
have a really stubborn one, or you're looking for my
all star candidate, it would be the cream cleanser by Jaws.
Speaker 2 (07:34):
I appreciate it. And my toilet bowl anounced shine. Thank
you very much.
Speaker 1 (07:39):
All right, thank you much. I appreciate it. Take care.
That is a good thing, quite honestly. You know, when
water just sits in a bowl, especially when you have
maybe some toilets that aren't used as often as they are.
Sometimes even the trap dries out. The water dries out
of the trap or out of the bowl, or it
(07:59):
dries in the that rim where the water is transferred
from the closet into the bowl, and you get some
impediments in there, and then when you flush, there's not
enough volume and enough force to remove waste in the
first place. Everybody thinks is we got a problem with
the drain. You know, we got something clogging up the drain.
(08:19):
And yeah, sometimes you do, kids throw toys in there
and everything else. But one of the biggest reasons is
just those ports underneath the rim of the toilet are clogged,
and an easy way to get rid of that again
is compact mirror. Just running around that bottom edge of that,
take a look see of what's being clogged. And then
a little twist drill bit used to try. A little
(08:42):
nylon ties will sometimes poke it through, but if it's
pretty thick crustacean, I'd say just a little twist drill
bit and you know you're up against the rim. You're
not really going to scratch the porcelain. Don't use a drill,
Just between your thumb and your forefinger. All right. Our
phone number there's eight hundred eight two three, eight two
(09:02):
five five will continue with your calls. You're at home
with Gary Sullivan.
Speaker 3 (09:06):
It's the weekend and you have fixed questions. Give Gary
a call at one eight hundred eight two three talk.
This is at home with Gary Sullivan.
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Hey Gary Salvin, here from my friends at rotor Ruter
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(10:12):
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Com and Amazon. All Right back at it we go.
(12:02):
Nineteen minutes after the top of they are at home
with Gary Sullivan taking a look at maybe some issues
we might have around the home. And you know, many
of our homes are brick and masonry construction, and is
what's acceptable and not acceptable when it comes to cracks
(12:23):
and mortar joints. In other words, a lot of times
when you look at a brick home and you got
the mortar joints, you'll have some shrinkage cracks of the
mortar that is pulled away from the brick. But what
is acceptable now, in the nineteen seventies, late seventies, mid seventies,
(12:46):
they started putting wheepholes behind brick, so the brick is
off the framing of the house and there's a gap
behind the brick and the house. And the reason for
that is if they're was penetration of water getting through
that brick wall due to missing mortar or cracked mortar,
(13:11):
it had a way to escape. It wouldn't be right
on the wood construction of the house. So there was
a gap there, and the brick is you know, like
I said, there's a gap between that and the construction.
And then down at the very bottom of that wall,
I think it's every sixth vertical mortar joint there is
(13:31):
a little vent, there's a method or there's an opening
for water that would get behind that wall to escape.
Maybe say clocking around windows would missing clocking would allow
water to get in, may find its way behind or
behind the facia board, in the gutters, or through cracked
mortar or missing mortar. But what is acceptable and for
(13:56):
most cases you don't need to worry if you can
get like your fingernail in it. Now, there are certainly
some products and applications that you can seal like a
thirty second of an inch of a crack, but it's
not really a patch. I know, Chimney RX makes a
(14:19):
mortar joint and crack sealing. It almost is the viscasi
of milk. It's white, it dries clear, you paint it on.
It seals that crack. Is that something I'm in a
Russian do? Probably not. But when that crack gets to
an eighth of an inch, that's not acceptable. Okay, anything
(14:40):
larger than an eighth of an inch not accessible acceptable.
So you have a couple options there. Sometimes people will
use a calking I'm not a fan of that. What
I am a fan of is quite honestly getting a
(15:02):
cult chisel out there, chiseling that joint out, getting a
mortar and retuck point that brick, So an eighth of
an inch is kind of where you draw the line.
There needs to be something done at that point. Now,
(15:23):
there are different calking materials that are designed to look
like a mortar. They're grain color, some even have a texture.
They can be used on vertical surfaces, and that can
solve that particular problem. But I think the true way
(15:45):
is to really go ahead and take that mortar joint out,
clean that out, Wet that area that you're going to remortar,
Wet the brick itself so it doesn't suck the moreture
out of the mortar itself, and go ahead and retuck
(16:05):
point that. Now, know that all mortar is not the
same color. If you have a you know, mortar from
thirty years ago, and you get a mortar patch and
you mix it with water, there's a good chance that
that gray and that mortar patch is not going to
(16:26):
match the gray that came in, you know, the powdered mortar.
So there are tints, and that's where a real mason,
I think really earns their money is their ability to
tint mortar. Because if you have let's just say it,
you've seen it, I've seen it, you get ten cracks
(16:49):
on the mortar joints. A couple of mortar, you know,
ten vertical mortar joints on a chimney, and you get
up there with a mortar mix you mix it up
and you just start on that out and patching it
and they don't match. It looks like a jigsaw puzzle
on your chimney. Looks terrible. So if it's something you're
gonna do yourself, you're going to have to determine. Mix
(17:14):
a little bit of the mortar up, get an old
piece of glass, put a doll up onto the glass,
turn that mortar or that glass to the other side
to view the mortar. That's what it's gonna look like
when it's dried. So then you have to determine, just
with a naked eye, whether more black needs to be added.
In other words, it needs to be gray er? Does
(17:36):
it need to be reddish? Tan? More tan? You know,
so a beige, a red, and a black those are
like the tints for mortar. And then of course you're
gonna have to uh mix up enough to use to
In other words, you make sure you all your prep
work is already done. The more dreds have been cleared,
(17:59):
the bread have been moistened, and then you have mixed
up enough to use so that we don't have to
guess again because you're probably not gonna come up to
an exact match again. So mixing that up and again
that glass is a good old trick because even when
it's in the mortar bucket, it's gonna look different than
(18:20):
when it's dried on the chimney. So using that doll
up on the old glasses is really a great way
to determine what that's gonna look when it's dry. But again,
those little I've had one mortar joint where it was
probably about a sixteenth of an inch that actually caused
some problems. And like I said, chimney rx dot com
(18:44):
has a lot of different chimney repair products and they've
got one for mortar joint cracks, and I think it
covers cracks, seals cracks up to an eighth of an inch,
but nothing more than that. It's strict goes into a
patch at that point. Also, if you see cracks at
(19:05):
mortar or brick stairstepping cracks, keep an eye on those
the ones that go totally straight up vertically on a
corner of that house. That's probably the ones that can
cause you the most problems down the road, So it's
something you want to keep an eye on and actually
mark to see if it's continuing to move. As we
(19:26):
talk about concrete, of course there's also sidewalks and patches
and resurfacing. Peter Dish from Dice Coatings will walk us
through those projects next. As we continue, You're at home
with Gary Sullivan.
Speaker 3 (19:52):
Fix it right with a call to Gary'sullivan at one
eight eight two three talk This is at home with Gary.
Speaker 1 (20:16):
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(20:36):
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(22:32):
at home with Carrie Salvan. It's time for our project
of the week. Now, take a look at some of
the concrete surfaces, just kind of imagine them around your home,
the patty of the garage floor, the sidewalks, probably some pits,
probably some discoloration, probably some cracks, And you know, we
(22:54):
talk a lot about crack fillers and different things, but
there's there's a particular product I want to talk to
about today. It's rock Patch and it's totally different than
what you're used to us talking about. So joining me
is our friend Peter Dice from Dice Codings.
Speaker 4 (23:10):
Peter, how are you, good morning, Gary, I'm doing great,
how are you doing.
Speaker 1 (23:15):
Wonderful. We've got some beautiful weather today, so life is good.
Speaker 4 (23:19):
It is definitely good.
Speaker 1 (23:21):
So Peter, maybe give an overview of what rock patch is.
Speaker 4 (23:28):
Rock patch is a one hundred percent stone coating that
you would use. It's a filler, leveler and resurfacer. So basically,
if you have any concrete that has holes, cracks, maybe
some widespread pitting, maybe in your garage for instance, anywhere
(23:50):
where you just want to fix and refurbish that surface.
This is your alternative to having to create, you know,
clouds of dust and mixing water and constantly remixing things
to get more of it to cover a large area.
This is something that is a ready to go pre
(24:14):
mixed system. It's in the in the bucket. You open
it up, give it a quick stir, and you just
spread it on and you push it into the holes
and into the cracks and it can not only you know,
fix some of those flaws, but you could even use
it as a complete resurfacer over a whole area using
(24:38):
a little squeegee trowel, so you can completely resurface and
give it a whole new poured concrete look, or you
can just fix the odd place prior to putting a
decorative coating on, and that way will nothing will visually
show through. And the beauty of it is you don't
need to worry about mixing, you know, I don't want
(24:59):
to have to sit there and you know, make sure
I've got the right amount of powder and the right
amount of water and I've mixed it right and all
of that stuff, because sometimes that can go sideways. Sure,
this is designed to make.
Speaker 1 (25:11):
It easy, right. So I got a lot of questions
that I'm sure a lot of my listeners are thinking
about right now, and that is, first of all, it
sounds like a wonderful, wonderful product. Second of all, we've
got to get this stuff in stores where people can
run up and get some. I know we can get
this online and we're going to talk about that. But
you know, one of the questions I get asked more
(25:33):
than anything on this show. It's either decks or it's concrete.
You know, the pitting, the crack. And one thing concrete
is guaranteed to do is crack. One thing that's guaranteed
to do is pit is eventually ugly is out. It
doesn't always wear out. And this is non cementatious. So
the first question is how about color. I know color
(25:56):
varies in concrete from you know, Georgia to New York,
California to the Midwest. They is it a like gray
or where is the color distinction here?
Speaker 4 (26:07):
Yes, it's it's a light gray, not super super light,
but by no means dark. It's it's very mid tone
to light. It's it's very desirable as a color.
Speaker 5 (26:20):
And uh.
Speaker 4 (26:21):
There are also some additional colors that are going to
be added in the next few months as well. But yeah,
basically you're you're right. I mean, concrete will ugly out
and and you know need some some refurbishment and that's
what this will do.
Speaker 1 (26:38):
How about bonding. I know concrete doesn't like to stick
to concrete, but your rock patch isn't concrete, that's right.
Speaker 4 (26:46):
And uh, and and it will bond beautifully and it'll
lock in. The key though, is that if you're going
to be doing this, you do want to give it
a quick wash first. You want to make sure that
there's no dirt that's in eating the anchoring and the
bond into the pores of the surface. So that's easy.
You just give it a quick wash, make sure it's dry,
(27:08):
and then you just you apply your new surface or
fill your holes or your cracks, and it dries pretty
quick and you didn't have to worry about, you know,
the cloud of dust or the other thing is too
since there's no actual cement in this material. Let's say
that you have a garage floor and you happen to
(27:30):
be in a state where you get snow and there's
salt that's put on the roads and things like that.
Salt loves to eat concrete, it loves to pit concrete.
Speaker 5 (27:42):
Oh yeah, So you know.
Speaker 4 (27:46):
The idea there, for instance, is if you have a
garage floor, give it a good pressure wash, get all
that stuff out of there. But then you put this on.
It'll fill it and it will not pit and it
will not get damaged. Buy any salt later that comes down.
Speaker 1 (28:02):
Onto that floor, and you don't need to seal it. Right,
I would seal it, I would see it.
Speaker 4 (28:08):
I would seal it all right. Well, basically the reason
for that is, yes, you know it'll stand up to stuff,
but at the same time, you also wanted to stay
as clean as possible make it look new. So basically,
if you've resurfaced the floor, okay, and you put the
sealer on, you've got a lock there.
Speaker 1 (28:30):
It's there.
Speaker 4 (28:31):
It's not going to allow any dirt to grab on.
It's gonna stay clean, it's going to stay new looking.
And if it's just a patch, maybe you're putting an
epoxy or something over it. But now you've got a
perfectly smooth, pristine surface to put that coating over.
Speaker 1 (28:47):
Excellent. So another question. I always have lots of questions
for you, Peter, because you are the answer man. One
of the questions I can ask a lot is the
expansion joints in between slabs of concrete. Over time, you know,
the movement of the soil beneath it, those expansion joints crack,
some weeds grow up, and you got to clean that out.
I'd always tell people, and I have told people forever,
(29:11):
don't patch that with concrete because it's going to crack
out because it's moving. And I always talked about using
a eurothane self leveling cooking. Can you use rock patch
in that area, in that open expansion joint?
Speaker 4 (29:29):
You can, But at the end of the day, what
you really want to do is if you have a
nice clean expansion joint line which is not ugly, I
mean it's there for a purpose. It looks very neat
and tidy. I would just leave it there, so I
would coat everything. But I would take that trowel, for instance,
(29:50):
and I would just cut along that line just to
keep it open. So that that way, if any of
the slabs want to move around, as they will tend
to do with it, spansion, contraction, freeze, thaw, they'll just
do their thing and nothing is ever going to be
you know that place. Everything is going to stay looking great.
Speaker 1 (30:09):
Yeah, well I tell people just even to put sand
in it.
Speaker 4 (30:12):
You can do that, sure, but you know, other than that,
you know, if you've got a nice clean line there,
leave a clean line.
Speaker 5 (30:20):
There's nothing terribly.
Speaker 4 (30:21):
Wrong with that.
Speaker 1 (30:22):
Is the rock patch when you're talking about doing a coding,
because that's a whole another area, and the rock patch
seems to satisfy that. The is it self leveling or
do you trial it out or how's the application on network?
Speaker 4 (30:42):
Basically when you travel it, or you can use a
squeegee trial which we have, or you can get you know,
in a bunch of places from a standing position. You
just spread it on. And the key with this is
use a little bit of pressure while you're doing it.
So in other words, when you put this on, you're
going to press firmly so that the rock patch goes
(31:05):
in and locks onto everything. You don't leave a lot
of voids and air pockets underneath. You just press firmly
and you just make it connect with the surface that's there,
and you just make it smooth. When you put it on,
it goes on like butter. It's beautiful to apply. You're
not struggling. You just open up the can and just
(31:26):
spread it on. It goes on like a dream, and
at that point you leave it just the way that
you want it, so that if you're going to be
putting a coating over top, as you've mentioned, now you've
got a surface that isn't going to be transmitting any
kind of texture or any unsightly stuff or even for instance,
if you try putting let's say, an epoxy over a
(31:48):
floor that has cracks in it. For instance, if you
do that, the epoxy will go on, but in some
places you're going to see that crack wanting to transmit
through and just show It's not that you're still going
to have a crack, but you're going to see that
minor indentation there, So with rock patch, once you've done that,
(32:08):
it drives quick. It's an odorless, easy water based application.
Now you've got a perfectly smooth, pristine surface. When you
put that coating over top, it's going to look like
a million bucks. It's going to be smooth, it's going
to look great. None of what you had there before
is going to be showing through, and it's just going
to be perfect.
Speaker 1 (32:28):
Can I use the rock patch and then put like
safe track the clear ceiling over.
Speaker 6 (32:34):
It and just let it be Absolutely it's a beautiful surface.
So if you've got a porch or a slab or
a patio, you don't want to do anything other than
just fill any of the cracking or the pitting that
you've got there, and you want to leave it smooth
and just a nice, appealing soft gray. You just put
(32:55):
on the rock patch and then twenty four hours later
you apply the track safe sealer and you have an
anti slip, a beautiful surface that's protected from dirt or
any kind of stains, and it'll just look like a
brand new slab and it will stay looking that way
for a good long time and you don't need to
worry about salt.
Speaker 1 (33:15):
How about oil stains. Is the rock patch resistant to
chemical damage?
Speaker 4 (33:21):
It is? It is resistant to that. But at the
same time, if you're going to be having a bunch
of chemicals around, all the more reason why you're going
to be sealing it. That's celant that you apply is
going to be that second layer of protection. So it's
going to stay looking great, it's going to repel the stains.
It's going to be solid. It's made of stone, and
(33:43):
you know it'll work with.
Speaker 5 (33:44):
You and it'll live with you.
Speaker 1 (33:46):
So the die Hard, you know, industrial epoxy floor coating
that we've talked about several times in the last couple
of months, that can be applied over the rock patch also,
and how's that going.
Speaker 4 (34:00):
It's going fantastic. It's a really great product, the die Hard,
as we've discussed previously, it's an industrial strength epoxy coating
and you apply that and you know, if you happen
to have a forklift that's your home, well you're all
set because it's very, very, very very durable. So, I mean,
(34:22):
it looks beautiful, it's got a nice sheene. It's very
showroomy looking, so it's beautiful in your garage, but you
can also use it in your factory. You can use
it in your commercial property and your warehouse. You can
use it everywhere. But the beauty is that, for instance,
if you had used rock patch first because the floor
(34:43):
wasn't looking great, you apply the die Hard over top.
And die Hard, by the way, it has a lot
of body to it, so it's not like a thin
water based epoxy paint. When you put this on, it
will even partially fill cracks and things itself. So you
put this on your surface, you're going to have a
(35:04):
very very hard work, hard wearing surface sure, and it's
going to you know, outperform perhaps other things that we've
used before.
Speaker 1 (35:13):
Well. A lot of options for garage floors, a lot
of options for crack fillers. Yours is unique. Is it
sold in quarts? Gallons? Five gallons? How's it sold?
Speaker 4 (35:24):
Well? The Diehard two gallon kit is just basically a
big old box. It's got all the stuff in there.
It also includes flakes if you want to put flakes
on your floor.
Speaker 5 (35:37):
It's cleaner in there.
Speaker 4 (35:40):
And the the double kit that we're offering now is retailing.
You can get it through Home Depot for one hundred
and fifty nine dollars and basically, you know, just apply that.
That'll cover you know, five hundred square feet. Okay, and
you're good to go.
Speaker 1 (35:59):
Very good. How about the rock Patch for patching.
Speaker 4 (36:04):
Rock Patch, same thing. You can get that also through
Home Depot and Lows. Same goes with Diehard also at Low's.
So you know, basic and you know, give us a
call if you want to know anything. We'll walk you
through it. We'll answer any of your questions. We're here
all the time to make sure that you're successful and happy.
And we know that with these items, you know, you'll
(36:26):
do some beautiful work and you'll be happy for a.
Speaker 5 (36:28):
Long long time.
Speaker 1 (36:29):
Very good. It's Dice d ai chcodings dot com. You
can check out a roller Rock, a roller Rock, the
Diehard Max POxy that we were just talking about, the
rock Patch and Peter, thank you so much for joining us.
Appreciate it.
Speaker 4 (36:46):
Gary, it's always a pleasure speaking with you. Have a
wonderful weekend.
Speaker 1 (36:49):
Take you're the same, Thank you, my friend. Take care
all right, it's called rock Patch. Check that out and
we'll come back. We'll take your calls. Our numbers eight
hundred eight two three eight two five five year at
home with Gary Sullivan.
Speaker 3 (37:04):
Help for your home is just a click away at
Garysullivan online dot com. This is at home with Garysullivan.
Speaker 1 (37:27):
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dot com. All right, back at it we go. I
(39:58):
hope the conversation based on resurfacing concrete, making patches with
the product rock Patch. What's beneficial and hopefully it helps
you with your masonry repairs. All right, our phone number
if you'd like to grab a line happy to talk
about your home project, it's eight hundred eight two three
eight two five five and Martin welcome, Hey.
Speaker 5 (40:22):
Gary, good morning morning. So thank you for that prior segment.
They're on rock Patch. I've been wondering for years why
they don't have something that you just opened up the
can and spread it on the whole Yeah, in your concrete,
you know, And finally it's here.
Speaker 1 (40:35):
All right, right, I agree, I agree, And of course
you know, with this all new vinyl resins and everything
that I've entered the market in the last five years,
I think that made those projects products possible. So yeah,
good good stuff.
Speaker 5 (40:49):
So is it available at home Depot and Lows or
do you have to order it there?
Speaker 1 (40:53):
I think it's home depot dot com, So you don't
think it's on the shelf or lows dot com or
at that dice Codings dot com.
Speaker 5 (41:02):
Yeah, all right, question about water heaters. I'm here in
Connecticut and our electricity rates have skyrocketed this month. Friends
and neighbors are telling me, the ones that have already
gotten their bills, their average bill's up one hundred dollars.
And so I have an eighty gallon electric water heater
and I'm a single guy. I have a two family
(41:26):
house that supplies the whole house, and you know, my
bill is running, you know, in the ninety to one
hundred dollars range already because I have a separate meter
for the water heater. So two thoughts, what would be
more energy efficient? Should I lower the temperature so it
(41:46):
doesn't have to heat up as much, but I end
up using more hot water? Or should I kick up
the temperature setting ten or fifteen degrees so the water
is hotter and then when I use it, I will
use less of it. But it has to be painted
at a higher temperature.
Speaker 1 (42:04):
You know, to do the configuration error to figure it out.
I don't really have a quick answer on that. It's
a good question. But I do know some of the
water heaters, once they're set, you really don't want to
go below like one hundred and twenty degrees because then
you enter a realm of bacterias. And then when you
(42:27):
go too high. You certainly have anti scald devices on
fixtures in different things, but it may shut your water
off because yeah, well to that device, right, right, So
I don't know. It is a problem with electric water
(42:50):
heaters too, to a point you can't get well, you
couldn't get you can now where you couldn't get an
energy start rating on an electric water here, so they
consume more energy than say a gas But now, what
how old is that particular water heater?
Speaker 5 (43:14):
You're not going to believe this. It has a copper tank,
so it's never going to rust. Okay, it was actually
installed in nineteen forty eight.
Speaker 1 (43:24):
Is that right. That's awesome.
Speaker 5 (43:27):
It's it's incredible. It's absolutely incredible.
Speaker 1 (43:30):
Yeah.
Speaker 5 (43:31):
Yeah, but it's a copper tank, so no rust through right, right.
Every few years I changed the heating elements and I'm
good to go. Right, I hear I've updated a thermostat
or two, you know, over the years, she keeps on going.
Speaker 1 (43:48):
Yeah, yeah, except the efficiency so different. Seeing what they're
doing now is they're basically creating water heaters that are
available that have a heat pump on on them, so
the right every time it is slower. Plus it's a
big water heater. I don't know, I would be I
(44:09):
would be nervous about changing the settings, to be honest,
I don't think it's gonna be that beneficial to you.
All Right, thank you, all right, my friend, take care
all right. Uh Joe, you'll be up first when we
come back from the break. It's eight hundred eight two
three eight two five five. You're at home with Gary Sullivan.
Speaker 3 (44:58):
Start a project and don't know how to fit miss
call it Gary at one eight hundred and eighty two
three talk. You're at home with Gary Sulivagory h
At Home with Gary Sullivan News
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