August 25, 2024 • 45 mins
Gary wraps up Sunday with your calls, questions and expert tips.
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Episode Transcript
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Speaker 1 (00:32):
Well, the weekends upon us. Welcome. You're at Home with
Gary Salvin. This hours brought to you by nature Stone.
Check it out. Good looking stuff. Basement floors, laundry, garage floor.
It's naturestone dot com. All right, we thank them for
sponsoring this hour of that Home with Gary Salvin. As
we take your calls regarding your home projects, it's eight
(00:56):
hundred eight two three a two five eight eight two
three eight two five five. Go ahead and grab a
line and we'll chat a little bit about what you're
working on around your home or maybe a little maintenance,
maybe what you should be working on around your home.
And as the calendar continues to click forward, hooray, things
(01:20):
start cooling off and then we get into cold, cold weather,
and I want to spend just a little time about
talking about protecting the concrete around your home. As we
chatted yesterday, one thing concrete is guaranteed to do is crack.
It's going to crack. But it's how we respond to
(01:41):
different things that take place in deterioration of our homes.
And this is a good time of year to think
about whether it's asphalt or concrete, of getting it sealed
and do you need to seal it every year. No, no, no,
In fact that we'll start with asphalt. Asphalt business has
(02:03):
changed a lot. We used to seal that just about
every year, every year or two. Now you don't have
to do that. You can still do it, but you
don't have to do that because the quality of the
different sealers that are out there now a lot of
Again we bring up the words acrylic resins sealers. You
may have heard me talk about a product called drive
(02:25):
Max that's got a ten year warranty fast dry time.
They also make a seven year, a five year, o
two year. But you got options. So you want to
patch the cracks for sure, there's liquid crack fillers, there's
a masty crack filler, and then resealing to minimize moisture
(02:49):
penetration with a product like a drive Max and very
very resistant to the UV ray. So I think a
lot of times that was my job seeing the asphalt
drivewayhen I was a kid, and I really believe that
one of the reasons we did it was it was
kind of like just like painting a driveway, right. We
(03:10):
wont that nice black crisp look clean. Look. I think
we oversealed it and You don't want to do that
because just like if you're painting a wall every year,
eventually that paint film be so thick it would begin
to fail. So you know, if you use an inexpensive
(03:31):
sailors maybe every other year, but the drivemax again ten years,
and that's an awesome product. It really is. For concrete,
the first thing you know, you got to look at
I talked about concrete is guaranteed to crack, so we
want to address the issues of cracked concrete. And also
(03:57):
sometimes you'll have like divots that are out of the concrete,
like little pot marks. We want to patch those concrete
cements they don't like to stick to each other. So
you don't want to buy a big vega concrete you could,
or sand mix you could, but you'd have to add water,
(04:19):
you'd have to add a bonding agent. Got to clean
out the divots, and you got to apply it. Cracks,
you don't want to use a cementatious material again, cracks
that are three sixteenths of an inch. Your main purpose
(04:39):
you're not gluing it together. The main purpose is you're
sealing the cracks so moisture can't get underneath that slab.
Create erosion, cause it to crack more, cause it to settle,
cause a tripping hazard. You got it. The progression of
a problem. There's a product called crack seal. It's a
late text rack sealer. That's what goes in small cracks.
(05:04):
Run a beat over it. It'll self level sealed up.
Rain's not gonna get underneath it. Will it fail Eventually
it will larger gaps between driveway and garage floor, sidewalk
and stoop sidewalk in house, in between the expansion joints
(05:26):
and a concrete a little bigger project. Usually the gap
is quarter inch plus, sometimes three quarters of it, sometimes
bigger in it. I wouldn't use a latex on that.
I'd use a your thane, and your thane is expensive,
(05:48):
but it is good. More expensive than latex. I should
say it's not expensive. It's just more expensive than latex.
It's got the best adhesion rating, it's got the best
flexibility ratings. You don't want to waste it. You clean
out that. You know, we'll say a half inch crack,
(06:11):
and maybe that crevice it's not crack, it's just the
expansion joint is pulled away. It's settled. Maybe that gap
is four inches deep. That's how deep the thick the
slab is. And maybe there was something in there as
an expansion joint, or maybe there was nothing and it
(06:34):
just pulled away and settled and there you want to
fill that with sand up to about three ace of
so up to about three ace from the top of
the slab, so you want to have a little crevice,
but not a big crevice. Put the self leveling your thing.
It comes in a heavy duty colcking tube. You're gonna
(06:57):
need a heavy duty cocking gun, but its self levels.
It puts a bead down and then it levels, and
if it is settling, it'll continue to settle. Usually those
things don't stop, but it'll stretch and eventually it'll give up.
(07:19):
But maybe you come back and reapply. So that we
want to get the cracks filled though, for sure, and
then sealed. Especially folks listening right now live in northern climates.
It's harsh and you get road salt and you get
(07:39):
corrosiveness going on, and that's where you get those little
pop marks or uneven surfaces. I call it driveway acne
because that's what it looks like, just kind of the
surface is just kind of breaking up a little bit
so by sealing it, that salty brain solution doesn't penetrate
(08:03):
into the concrete as far doesn't create as much damage.
If you haven't sealed a concrete driveway for a while,
that might be something you should entertain. And your life
span on that's three to five years. But boy, if
you just got new concrete, you don't want any salt
(08:25):
on that for a couple of years. And sometimes you
can't help it. You drive your car down the streets
and right on there. But you can seal it right away,
not right away, not right away, twenty eight days, okay,
twenty eight days, you can seal it. There are cure
and seal products that can be mixed into the concrete
when they're pouring it. You need to check that to
(08:46):
see if they're going to do that, because then you're
gonna want to wait a year. But for the most part,
you wait a month and you can go ahead and
seal the seal the driveway three to five years that's
gonna last. So those are good projects to tackle in
the next month or so two months, depending where you live.
(09:07):
And it just is a whole bunch of maintenance and
a whole bunch of protection. When I say a whole bunch,
it's not like a whole bunch hard work. The sealers
that you want. You want a breatheable sealer. It can
exhaust moisture from underneath that slab out kind of works
like gortex, kind of prevents the water from going down
(09:30):
through that slab. So you want it breatheable. You can
put it on with anything you want, including which is
the way I do it, a tank sprayer. You put
the sealer in there, you just kind of missed it on.
You don't want it to puddle. You don't want it
to be running off. You want it you know how
you get a light sprinkle of rain and it just
(09:54):
kind of darkens the concrete. That's the application you want
to do. That's exactly how much you want to put
on there. If you do put too much on, it
starts puddling or running, get somebody out there with you,
or you can just stop for a second, take a
brush or a roller cover and just roll it out.
Just don't let it pawn and dry or it'll be shiny.
(10:17):
We want it into the surface, So put that on
your fall project list. I think that would be money
well spent and time well used, all right, Well take
a break when we come back. We got Karen and
Tony and Rose and if you'd like to join us
do so. You're at home with Gary.
Speaker 2 (10:35):
Sultan weekends, I mean a never writing list of things
to do around your home. Get help at one eight
hundred eighty two three talk.
Speaker 3 (10:42):
You're at home with Gary Sullivan.
Speaker 1 (10:59):
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(13:19):
All right, back at it we go twenty one minutes
after the top. They are, by the way. I just
want to remind you each and every hour of the
show on Saturday and Sunday is available to you via podcast.
If you've enjoyed what you hear today, maybe you want to,
you know, scalp back to yesterday and pick one of
(13:40):
the hours. You can take me on your walk. How's that?
Listen at your leisure and it's available wherever podcasts are iHeart.
Just type in at home with Gary Slivan. If you
want to go to Garysalvan online dot com. Danny does
post that link there and you can listen to the
podcast that way. But there each hour is labeled and
(14:03):
you'll see whether it's the first hour, second ar, third hour,
et cetera. But I did want to remind you that
that is available. All right, Karen, welcome.
Speaker 4 (14:14):
Thank you very much. Gary I'm hoping you might might
be able to give me some help with my problem.
I live in a condominium association. However, each of us
in that association owns our own home and the property,
and my problem lives in the fact that my home
(14:36):
was built before each of the homes on each side
of me were built, and the homes on the east
of me, the home on the east of me was
graded so that the water runs off and it runs
toward my home, and the one on the west has
(14:57):
a little more distance between my home in that home
than the one on the east, and so the grating
on that one doesn't affect the water flow into my
lower level that the one on the east does. I
have approached the developer or the I guess one in
(15:21):
the same the builder and the developer about my problem,
and he seems to think that the coffee can drains,
and that's what I call them, because they're a cylinder
with a bottom in it and a pipe coming out
of the down spouts into that drain, and there is
(15:46):
no way that the water drains out of that coffee
can drain. It just fits in there. And so when
we have a heavy rainstorm, the rain water from the
home to the east of me, which is probably about
twenty five feet away from my home, drains down into
(16:09):
my back. I have a walkout, so it drains down
into the area of my walkout. And the developer has
gone or the builder one and the same has gone
to the board that the association board and has told
them the story. And I received an email back saying
(16:32):
that that's my problem and I need to have it
fixed at my expense. Now, there have been six to
eight other homes in that community who have had the
same issue I have, only they've had severe damage to
the lower level and I don't want to have that.
(16:53):
I'm trying to be proactive and take care of that water.
So I don't know to whom I need to go
that could perhaps help me with that issue, to tell
me how to fix it.
Speaker 1 (17:06):
And then yeah, but what I would do. And the
drain that you were talking about, that's an exterior drain, yes, okay.
Speaker 4 (17:17):
There are about four of them in my back.
Speaker 1 (17:19):
Yeah yeah, yeah, Well, you know, based on where you're
at with clay, I don't know how well that's going
to drain either. But I think what you really need
to do is you need to contact an excavator sounds
like a scary name, but what they do is they
work on projects exactly like this, and they're very common problems.
(17:45):
You know, properties different highs and highs and lows, and
if you got hills, and you know, it's not about waterproofing,
it's total water control. I don't know if your ground
slopes down past your home. But when you were telling
me what you were what the problem was, I was thinking,
(18:05):
like an underground French drain would be ideal. If it's
draining into this little create a culvert. An excavator is
going to move soil. It's going to give an escape
route for the water. It's going to funnel water to
like a little valley that they would create. You would
put a pipe underground where the water would float to
(18:27):
the pipe. It's got slits in it, and then they
would create, you know, a slope underground with that pipe
and exit the water away from the homes. I'm being
very elementary here. Nothing's ever that easy. But you asked
me what you should do, and I would say, I
would get a hold of an excavator. I'd tell them
(18:48):
what your problem is. I wouldn't get into what the
builders say and in the condos. I wouldn't get into
any of that yet. I would get his opinion of
what's going on, what would be needed in the approximate
cost to solve my problem, and then we'll work on
the other end of it.
Speaker 4 (19:08):
Okay, the grating from the house to the east of
me is tips, so that are graded so that it
goes definitely grows toward my house.
Speaker 1 (19:21):
Right right. I understand that, and I'll put you on hold.
We can talk on the other side of the break
if you feel you still have some questions. I understand
what's causing. We just got to catch that water and
we can and move it away from the house. We'll
continue at home with Gary Solivan.
Speaker 3 (19:48):
If you don't have a list of things to do
around the house, Gary will find something for you at
one eight eight.
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than id. All, right, back at it. We'll go thirty
(22:30):
three minutes after the top of the hour, and let's
go back to Karen here. We're having a discussion really
on creating drainage around the home. All right, Karen sorry,
I had to break a hard time there.
Speaker 4 (22:43):
Thank you so much. So my question to you would be,
do you would you have a recommendation of some excavating
company in Kalamazoo Township that might be able to I don't.
Speaker 1 (22:57):
I'm located down in Ohio, so I I don't have
a local company that I can recommend. But you could
ask around. If you've got a NARI Association National Institute
of the Remodeling Industry, they could make a recommendations. Go
on Angie's List, look up you know excavation companies you
(23:22):
can you can find and just make sure you get
one with good references. But I don't have one. Maybe
even asking not your builder, but different builders you know,
and see if they have one. But that's I think
the person that's really going to be able to they'll
even be able to test. I don't know if when
(23:42):
you talked about having like an outdoor outdoor sump pit installed,
whether there was any soil percolation tests done and not.
That'd be really important because if the soil can't you know,
exhaust that water out of that pit, you would probably
have to put a pump in there to pump it away,
(24:05):
which is fine. But there's a little bit more to
it than just putting a well down in there.
Speaker 4 (24:12):
Sure, my house is a walkout on the bottom, a
lower level, right and the water is pooling so close
to my sliding glass door.
Speaker 1 (24:21):
I'm getting a little yeah, And eventually you're doing the
right thing, Karen. Eventually it's going to become a problem.
I mean, soil land it's always kind of changing, and
if it's not chon of change direction, it's just going
to you know, you get a little bit more erosion,
gives it a little bit more permission to get closer
(24:44):
to the openings of your home. It will eventually become
a problem. So you're spot on. It's a problem. Now
you see where it's going, and inn good. We got
to figure out a way how we control that away
from your property without messa and up something else.
Speaker 4 (25:02):
Okay, all right, all right, Gary, thank you so much.
I listened to you religiously on Sundays, So thank you.
Speaker 1 (25:10):
All right, Karen, thank.
Speaker 4 (25:11):
You, thank you, by bye bye bye.
Speaker 1 (25:14):
All right. Yeah, that's frustrating, but that's you know, it's
there's different laws and things too where you can exit water.
I mean, it gets complicated, but a good excavator. I'm
sure he'll be able to help Karen. All right, let's
get a rose Rose Welcome.
Speaker 5 (25:32):
Hello, that's the row. Yes, yes, I wanted to check.
I had a gazebo on my patio and I used
to tie my Hawaiian plant to one of the legs
of the of the gazebo to keep it from being
blown over by the wind. And so the gazebo has
(25:56):
since rusted out at the top, but I kept the
leg and I want to counter sync some bolts into
the concrete patio and put the head down so that
I can attach the leg to the patio. It's a
(26:21):
six foot tall metal post and it well, it weighs
fourteen pounds, so it's pretty substantial. So I want to
drill holes into four holes. It has a base plate
on it, and I want to draw four holes into
(26:44):
the concrete patio, put the bolt in head down, and
then what do I.
Speaker 6 (26:53):
Fill the holes with?
Speaker 1 (26:55):
Well, actually, there is a product you could do a
couple of things. There is. Quick Creek makes both of them.
One of them is in a POxy. It's an epoxy
anchoring cement, so it comes in a cocking tube. They're
actually using this now with a lot of wrought iron
(27:20):
railings where it used to be, you would draw a
big hole when you would use an anchoring cement in there,
which you can still do, or you can use this
epoxy so it comes in a cocking tube. It actually
mixes as it's coming out of the spout rose so
it's and the size of the hole will be a
(27:44):
little bit large because you're going to have a head
on that and you're gonna put the head down first,
so you're gonna have plenty of room around that bolt.
And you literally just pump this epoxy anchoring cement into
the concrete hole.
Speaker 5 (27:58):
Okay.
Speaker 1 (28:00):
One The other option would be you'd have to make
a hole twice the size of the bolt that you're
going to put in there, So it'd be a bigger hole,
that's for sure, because I imagine you're gonna use three ace
to a half inch threaded bolt. Yeah, you would put
that in there, and you would get anchoring cement. It's
(28:22):
a powder that's mixed with water, and you would put
that in or in the hole. The hole will be
larger than the other hole, and that's how that's how
you'd anchor that.
Speaker 5 (28:38):
Okay, So you think the cocking two.
Speaker 1 (28:43):
Yeah. Yeah, the word cocking doesn't do it justice. It
is literally an epoxy anchoring cement, but it mixes. It's
got a resinant, a hardener and in the tube. Yeah,
I think that's what I would use. That would be
pretty easy to use. It's very ancel and it would
definitely do the job. Now, the other thing you could
(29:05):
consider doing too, is there are anchoring anchors that it's
a bolt or a piece of threaded rod with a
nut on the top, and it has a light steel casing.
So you put that in and then you tighten up
that bolt, all right, and it expands the wings out
(29:26):
of that anchor, and that hole has already been pumped
full of that epoxy, so you push that in and
then you tighten that nut, and then you put the
plate over the nut. The nut is subsurface and the
threaded rod is sticking up. Just another way to do it.
We're kind of getting to the same thing, but you know,
(29:48):
it's got wings out, so there's gonna be a little
bit more grab power there. But I think either way
will work fine.
Speaker 5 (29:56):
Okay, So and then if I eliminate this pole, which
would be the easiest to remove, if I if I
want to take.
Speaker 1 (30:09):
The Oh well, I think no matter what you're gonna do,
you're gonna end up taking uh, you know, some sort
of sow and cutting the bolt off. I think you're
going to pull it out.
Speaker 5 (30:20):
Okay, all right, all right, that sounds great, Thank you.
I wanted to ask a question. A couple of weeks ago. Uh,
A lady had called in and she said that she
had some of the white plastic furniture and that she
(30:41):
got it clean and then she put Millsic on it.
And I was wondering which Millsick.
Speaker 1 (30:49):
It was the actual furniture. Millsick polish cleaner and polish.
Speaker 5 (30:54):
The wood the wood one, yes, uh huh oh okay,
and you just it on and.
Speaker 1 (31:01):
Yeah, that's what she said. I haven't used it. I've
used it on a cast aluminum outdoor table to kind
of make it pop and it worked beautiful, but I've
never used it on the PVC furniture. But yeah, yeah,
it was the furniture one.
Speaker 5 (31:16):
Okay, all right, all right, thank you so much.
Speaker 1 (31:20):
You're quite welcome. Thank you. All right, Well, take a
break and coming back. We got Conrad, and if you'd
like to jump on board and join us I certainly
invite you to do so. We got a few minutes
left to get your call on. It's eight hundred eight
two three eight two five five and you're at home
with Gary Sullivan.
Speaker 3 (31:39):
Help for your home is just a click away at
Garysullivan online dot com.
Speaker 2 (31:44):
This is at home with Gary Sullivan.
Speaker 1 (32:03):
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(32:25):
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(34:24):
at home with Gary Salvan as we work together on
taking care of some of those maintenance and repair issues
around your home. And if you'd like to join us,
do so as we work our way through the weekend.
Let's go to Conrad. Conrad. Welcome, Hi, Gary, thank you.
Speaker 4 (34:40):
Hey.
Speaker 7 (34:41):
I have a friend who recently bought a home and
she has the gutter down spat drains.
Speaker 1 (34:46):
But of course you're under the ground right But the.
Speaker 7 (34:52):
Where it comes out of the ground is completely clogged.
It's covered with sod grass okay, and I can't find it.
I'm oputting. You can offer me some out of a
suggestion or magical tip and orders defined.
Speaker 1 (35:03):
Well, I don't know about magical tip. I got an
idea if it's covered, and that's a good you know,
what you say is is worth everybody listening to because
where the downspout drains or an underground French drain and
peek their head out of the soil as the topography
(35:26):
slopes down to exit the water. Once that gets clogged,
you're right, it's probably not doing its job either of
dispersing the water as well as it should.
Speaker 7 (35:41):
To tell you, the gut the gutters are backing up
and when we have uh, water damage on a newly
done redone bathroom.
Speaker 1 (35:50):
Right yeah, yeah, for that reason, yeah, exactly so, So
I think what I would do is by trying to
find it. If you put a hose down that down spout, Okay, um,
you're going to have more than just rain water, probably
more pressure and I'm guessing okay, and you won't see
(36:14):
the water flow, but the area right where that pipe
used to exit, where it's clogged or where it's been
covered up, will get saturated. It'll get wet, it'll get soft,
it'll be softer than the rest of the soil, because
it's not that the water is totally blocked. It's just
(36:38):
really slowly dispersing the water. So that's what I would
do at that's but if it just gets real wet,
then you can dig down there and and you know,
unclog it and even get like a little spade in
(37:00):
there play out.
Speaker 7 (37:01):
So yeah, try that and I say that, And I
say that because my other option was to dig around
aimlessly with a Mattek and to hopefully hit something. You know, right,
this will work out. Well, I may still have to
do that, but I'll find moisture, you know work.
Speaker 1 (37:15):
It'll definitely you get enough water down that. And let's
say you put that hose on there and it starts
backing up in the in the down spout, just let
it be, turn the hose off for a while and
then will eventually drain out. At that point it'll start
getting wet.
Speaker 7 (37:34):
Nice, Thank you, park part beating. My question is the
remainder of the down spot due to this exit being clogged,
have about a half inch maybe an inch of mud.
Some is wet, someone is dry. I don't know if
it's dry or not, but it's definitely wet, uh in
the base of my four inch drain pipe. How do
(37:56):
I go about getting that out of there? Is there
a way? Give me some?
Speaker 1 (38:00):
So? So where's this at? Is this? Tell me again?
Where is this mud?
Speaker 7 (38:06):
Well? As I mentioned, the the drain pipe is clogged
and now there's a half inch or maybe I can't
even remember it. I stucked my hand down in there.
One thing, I pulled the down spot out of the
uh pipe and stuck my hand and there's a half
inch of mud and out of direction because it tees
(38:27):
off into another area that goes up to a different
but there's mud in there. Did I just let that
go and let it drain eventually or well? With the hose?
Speaker 1 (38:40):
So how would you get to it? You would disconnect
where the down spout meets the pipe going underground, Yes, sir, Yeah,
that's that's that's interesting because that also, you know, maybe
is telling you there's another problem down.
Speaker 7 (38:56):
There, a crack pipe.
Speaker 1 (38:58):
Yeah, exactly. So you know, the way you could get
it down is, you know, when you disconnect it, you
could maybe take a hand trial, you know, like a
garden tower. They maybe have one with about a you
can get a long one which maybe has a twelve
inch blade to it where you could kind of dig
(39:18):
that out. Another thing is maybe try blasting it out
once you disconnect it. If we can take a hose
with a hard stream, or if you have a you know,
maybe an electric pressure washer where you're not gonna have
too much pressure and just kind of blast that pipe.
Speaker 7 (39:37):
Out right, or maybe grab one of those like you mentioned,
grab one of those hose nozzles that have a high pressure, right,
shove that dot in there and let it do some work.
Speaker 1 (39:48):
Yeah, because you can get up to I think six
hundred pounds per square inch of water pressure out of
a solid stream hose with good water pressure. So I'd
probably try clean it up that way. And another tip too,
you know, before we get into that, if we get
that cleaned out and you want to have that pipe
inspected and maybe you also want to find out where
(40:10):
it ends, is get somebody out there or rent a
pipe camera where you just run a coil down there
and you can see the you know, the whole pipe,
and you can also have how much cable you're running
in there to tell you where it ends or where
it's blocked.
Speaker 7 (40:28):
That's pretty awesome. You're a great guy, Gary, Thank you.
Speaker 1 (40:31):
Thank all right, You very good. Thanks Connor and I
appreciate thank you. All right, and let's go to Joe. Joe.
Speaker 6 (40:38):
Welcome, Thank you, Gary, sir. Quick question, I've got two
steps down from the house onto a concrete patio. We've
been here about a year and a half. They get
morning sun from eight o'clock till maybe one in the afternoon.
But looking at the steps, even though it's treated wood
(40:59):
and all that, nothing's been done to it. Am I
better off to seal that with some sort of clear sealer.
Sh I paint it?
Speaker 7 (41:06):
What would you recommend?
Speaker 1 (41:10):
I would get something on it? Are you doing it
to protect it or are you doing it for cosmetics.
Speaker 7 (41:18):
Protection?
Speaker 1 (41:19):
Okay, all right, so yes, I would definitely seal it.
Pressure treated would Actually its main foe is not necessarily water.
It can be if if the wood splits, because that
pressure treatment's only down about a quarter of an inch
or so. But the main foe is the sun, the
(41:41):
ultraviolet rays of the sun, And over a large period
of time, that pressure treated wood will crack because of
the sun there's no UV block in the wood, and
then it'll open up the wood where water can get
to it and rot will occur. That's how it fails.
So if you use like a deck sealer, you're gonna
(42:02):
have all kinds of you know, you can get it
in brown, you can get in gray, you can get
it in cedar, you can get it in redwood. The
darker the color, the better the UV protection is. If
you put a clear sealer on there. It'll keep the
water out and maybe some sunshine, but it's overall protective
(42:26):
qualities will be gone in a year or two. So
you know, if you can get a brown or something
like that, you're gonna get another extra year. And get
a real good quality, you get another extra year. But
by rule of thumb, you're probably not gonna with morning sun.
You probably won't get more three or four years of
protection from the sun. It'll begin to fade or wear
(42:48):
or whatever. So just knowing that paint will give you
better protection. It'll get you up past five, six, seven years.
The problem with the paint is it's not a wood color.
It's paint. It's a surface protection, so it can be slippery,
and if you have to redo it, you will Eventually
(43:09):
you're gonna have to strip or remove that paint.
Speaker 6 (43:13):
How do I avoid this slippery part? Is there a
certain kind that would have a little bit of granular.
Speaker 1 (43:19):
Yeah, not too much. You can get a you can
get a silica sand, you can sprinkle the paint in there.
There's also I think it's called shark bite, shark grip,
or shark bite. I get those in the connectors mixed up.
It's a plastic little sphere, real small that sprinkled on
the surface, which you'll add some protection, but in no
(43:42):
honesty really, for where that's at, i'd probably i'd probably
put a semi transparent chestnut brown stain on there. If
you can. It'll give you three or four years, and
if you need a little more in four years. Listen,
there's no saying, no scraping, there's just clean it and reapply.
(44:06):
All right, Joe, thank you very much, and good luck
with that. Yeah, that's you definitely want to get some
protection on there or that would will rot even though
it's pressure treated, because that would will split. Danny boy,
thank you. A good fun weekend and a good pace. Yes,
but Danny and me both busy and we appreciate that.
(44:26):
Good Lord willing. We'll be back next weekend for more
At Home with Gary Sullivan.
Speaker 3 (44:48):
Time to get your hands dirty with Gary Sullivan. Give
them a call at eight two three talk You're at
Home with Gary Sullivant.
Speaker 1 (45:04):
Despica
Well, the weekends upon us. Welcome. You're at Home with
Gary Salvin. This hours brought to you by nature Stone.
Check it out. Good looking stuff. Basement floors, laundry, garage floor.
It's naturestone dot com. All right, we thank them for
sponsoring this hour of that Home with Gary Salvin. As
we take your calls regarding your home projects, it's eight
(00:56):
hundred eight two three a two five eight eight two
three eight two five five. Go ahead and grab a
line and we'll chat a little bit about what you're
working on around your home or maybe a little maintenance,
maybe what you should be working on around your home.
And as the calendar continues to click forward, hooray, things
(01:20):
start cooling off and then we get into cold, cold weather,
and I want to spend just a little time about
talking about protecting the concrete around your home. As we
chatted yesterday, one thing concrete is guaranteed to do is crack.
It's going to crack. But it's how we respond to
(01:41):
different things that take place in deterioration of our homes.
And this is a good time of year to think
about whether it's asphalt or concrete, of getting it sealed
and do you need to seal it every year. No, no, no,
In fact that we'll start with asphalt. Asphalt business has
(02:03):
changed a lot. We used to seal that just about
every year, every year or two. Now you don't have
to do that. You can still do it, but you
don't have to do that because the quality of the
different sealers that are out there now a lot of
Again we bring up the words acrylic resins sealers. You
may have heard me talk about a product called drive
(02:25):
Max that's got a ten year warranty fast dry time.
They also make a seven year, a five year, o
two year. But you got options. So you want to
patch the cracks for sure, there's liquid crack fillers, there's
a masty crack filler, and then resealing to minimize moisture
(02:49):
penetration with a product like a drive Max and very
very resistant to the UV ray. So I think a
lot of times that was my job seeing the asphalt
drivewayhen I was a kid, and I really believe that
one of the reasons we did it was it was
kind of like just like painting a driveway, right. We
(03:10):
wont that nice black crisp look clean. Look. I think
we oversealed it and You don't want to do that
because just like if you're painting a wall every year,
eventually that paint film be so thick it would begin
to fail. So you know, if you use an inexpensive
(03:31):
sailors maybe every other year, but the drivemax again ten years,
and that's an awesome product. It really is. For concrete,
the first thing you know, you got to look at
I talked about concrete is guaranteed to crack, so we
want to address the issues of cracked concrete. And also
(03:57):
sometimes you'll have like divots that are out of the concrete,
like little pot marks. We want to patch those concrete
cements they don't like to stick to each other. So
you don't want to buy a big vega concrete you could,
or sand mix you could, but you'd have to add water,
(04:19):
you'd have to add a bonding agent. Got to clean
out the divots, and you got to apply it. Cracks,
you don't want to use a cementatious material again, cracks
that are three sixteenths of an inch. Your main purpose
(04:39):
you're not gluing it together. The main purpose is you're
sealing the cracks so moisture can't get underneath that slab.
Create erosion, cause it to crack more, cause it to settle,
cause a tripping hazard. You got it. The progression of
a problem. There's a product called crack seal. It's a
late text rack sealer. That's what goes in small cracks.
(05:04):
Run a beat over it. It'll self level sealed up.
Rain's not gonna get underneath it. Will it fail Eventually
it will larger gaps between driveway and garage floor, sidewalk
and stoop sidewalk in house, in between the expansion joints
(05:26):
and a concrete a little bigger project. Usually the gap
is quarter inch plus, sometimes three quarters of it, sometimes
bigger in it. I wouldn't use a latex on that.
I'd use a your thane, and your thane is expensive,
(05:48):
but it is good. More expensive than latex. I should
say it's not expensive. It's just more expensive than latex.
It's got the best adhesion rating, it's got the best
flexibility ratings. You don't want to waste it. You clean
out that. You know, we'll say a half inch crack,
(06:11):
and maybe that crevice it's not crack, it's just the
expansion joint is pulled away. It's settled. Maybe that gap
is four inches deep. That's how deep the thick the
slab is. And maybe there was something in there as
an expansion joint, or maybe there was nothing and it
(06:34):
just pulled away and settled and there you want to
fill that with sand up to about three ace of
so up to about three ace from the top of
the slab, so you want to have a little crevice,
but not a big crevice. Put the self leveling your thing.
It comes in a heavy duty colcking tube. You're gonna
(06:57):
need a heavy duty cocking gun, but its self levels.
It puts a bead down and then it levels, and
if it is settling, it'll continue to settle. Usually those
things don't stop, but it'll stretch and eventually it'll give up.
(07:19):
But maybe you come back and reapply. So that we
want to get the cracks filled though, for sure, and
then sealed. Especially folks listening right now live in northern climates.
It's harsh and you get road salt and you get
(07:39):
corrosiveness going on, and that's where you get those little
pop marks or uneven surfaces. I call it driveway acne
because that's what it looks like, just kind of the
surface is just kind of breaking up a little bit
so by sealing it, that salty brain solution doesn't penetrate
(08:03):
into the concrete as far doesn't create as much damage.
If you haven't sealed a concrete driveway for a while,
that might be something you should entertain. And your life
span on that's three to five years. But boy, if
you just got new concrete, you don't want any salt
(08:25):
on that for a couple of years. And sometimes you
can't help it. You drive your car down the streets
and right on there. But you can seal it right away,
not right away, not right away, twenty eight days, okay,
twenty eight days, you can seal it. There are cure
and seal products that can be mixed into the concrete
when they're pouring it. You need to check that to
(08:46):
see if they're going to do that, because then you're
gonna want to wait a year. But for the most part,
you wait a month and you can go ahead and
seal the seal the driveway three to five years that's
gonna last. So those are good projects to tackle in
the next month or so two months, depending where you live.
(09:07):
And it just is a whole bunch of maintenance and
a whole bunch of protection. When I say a whole bunch,
it's not like a whole bunch hard work. The sealers
that you want. You want a breatheable sealer. It can
exhaust moisture from underneath that slab out kind of works
like gortex, kind of prevents the water from going down
(09:30):
through that slab. So you want it breatheable. You can
put it on with anything you want, including which is
the way I do it, a tank sprayer. You put
the sealer in there, you just kind of missed it on.
You don't want it to puddle. You don't want it
to be running off. You want it you know how
you get a light sprinkle of rain and it just
(09:54):
kind of darkens the concrete. That's the application you want
to do. That's exactly how much you want to put
on there. If you do put too much on, it
starts puddling or running, get somebody out there with you,
or you can just stop for a second, take a
brush or a roller cover and just roll it out.
Just don't let it pawn and dry or it'll be shiny.
(10:17):
We want it into the surface, So put that on
your fall project list. I think that would be money
well spent and time well used, all right, Well take
a break when we come back. We got Karen and
Tony and Rose and if you'd like to join us
do so. You're at home with Gary.
Speaker 2 (10:35):
Sultan weekends, I mean a never writing list of things
to do around your home. Get help at one eight
hundred eighty two three talk.
Speaker 3 (10:42):
You're at home with Gary Sullivan.
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(13:19):
All right, back at it we go twenty one minutes
after the top. They are, by the way. I just
want to remind you each and every hour of the
show on Saturday and Sunday is available to you via podcast.
If you've enjoyed what you hear today, maybe you want to,
you know, scalp back to yesterday and pick one of
(13:40):
the hours. You can take me on your walk. How's that?
Listen at your leisure and it's available wherever podcasts are iHeart.
Just type in at home with Gary Slivan. If you
want to go to Garysalvan online dot com. Danny does
post that link there and you can listen to the
podcast that way. But there each hour is labeled and
(14:03):
you'll see whether it's the first hour, second ar, third hour,
et cetera. But I did want to remind you that
that is available. All right, Karen, welcome.
Speaker 4 (14:14):
Thank you very much. Gary I'm hoping you might might
be able to give me some help with my problem.
I live in a condominium association. However, each of us
in that association owns our own home and the property,
and my problem lives in the fact that my home
(14:36):
was built before each of the homes on each side
of me were built, and the homes on the east
of me, the home on the east of me was
graded so that the water runs off and it runs
toward my home, and the one on the west has
(14:57):
a little more distance between my home in that home
than the one on the east, and so the grating
on that one doesn't affect the water flow into my
lower level that the one on the east does. I
have approached the developer or the I guess one in
(15:21):
the same the builder and the developer about my problem,
and he seems to think that the coffee can drains,
and that's what I call them, because they're a cylinder
with a bottom in it and a pipe coming out
of the down spouts into that drain, and there is
(15:46):
no way that the water drains out of that coffee
can drain. It just fits in there. And so when
we have a heavy rainstorm, the rain water from the
home to the east of me, which is probably about
twenty five feet away from my home, drains down into
(16:09):
my back. I have a walkout, so it drains down
into the area of my walkout. And the developer has
gone or the builder one and the same has gone
to the board that the association board and has told
them the story. And I received an email back saying
(16:32):
that that's my problem and I need to have it
fixed at my expense. Now, there have been six to
eight other homes in that community who have had the
same issue I have, only they've had severe damage to
the lower level and I don't want to have that.
(16:53):
I'm trying to be proactive and take care of that water.
So I don't know to whom I need to go
that could perhaps help me with that issue, to tell
me how to fix it.
Speaker 1 (17:06):
And then yeah, but what I would do. And the
drain that you were talking about, that's an exterior drain, yes, okay.
Speaker 4 (17:17):
There are about four of them in my back.
Speaker 1 (17:19):
Yeah yeah, yeah, Well, you know, based on where you're
at with clay, I don't know how well that's going
to drain either. But I think what you really need
to do is you need to contact an excavator sounds
like a scary name, but what they do is they
work on projects exactly like this, and they're very common problems.
(17:45):
You know, properties different highs and highs and lows, and
if you got hills, and you know, it's not about waterproofing,
it's total water control. I don't know if your ground
slopes down past your home. But when you were telling
me what you were what the problem was, I was thinking,
(18:05):
like an underground French drain would be ideal. If it's
draining into this little create a culvert. An excavator is
going to move soil. It's going to give an escape
route for the water. It's going to funnel water to
like a little valley that they would create. You would
put a pipe underground where the water would float to
(18:27):
the pipe. It's got slits in it, and then they
would create, you know, a slope underground with that pipe
and exit the water away from the homes. I'm being
very elementary here. Nothing's ever that easy. But you asked
me what you should do, and I would say, I
would get a hold of an excavator. I'd tell them
(18:48):
what your problem is. I wouldn't get into what the
builders say and in the condos. I wouldn't get into
any of that yet. I would get his opinion of
what's going on, what would be needed in the approximate
cost to solve my problem, and then we'll work on
the other end of it.
Speaker 4 (19:08):
Okay, the grating from the house to the east of
me is tips, so that are graded so that it
goes definitely grows toward my house.
Speaker 1 (19:21):
Right right. I understand that, and I'll put you on hold.
We can talk on the other side of the break
if you feel you still have some questions. I understand
what's causing. We just got to catch that water and
we can and move it away from the house. We'll
continue at home with Gary Solivan.
Speaker 3 (19:48):
If you don't have a list of things to do
around the house, Gary will find something for you at
one eight eight.
Speaker 2 (19:54):
Two three talk you're at home with Gary's ellivator.
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than id. All, right, back at it. We'll go thirty
(22:30):
three minutes after the top of the hour, and let's
go back to Karen here. We're having a discussion really
on creating drainage around the home. All right, Karen sorry,
I had to break a hard time there.
Speaker 4 (22:43):
Thank you so much. So my question to you would be,
do you would you have a recommendation of some excavating
company in Kalamazoo Township that might be able to I don't.
Speaker 1 (22:57):
I'm located down in Ohio, so I I don't have
a local company that I can recommend. But you could
ask around. If you've got a NARI Association National Institute
of the Remodeling Industry, they could make a recommendations. Go
on Angie's List, look up you know excavation companies you
(23:22):
can you can find and just make sure you get
one with good references. But I don't have one. Maybe
even asking not your builder, but different builders you know,
and see if they have one. But that's I think
the person that's really going to be able to they'll
even be able to test. I don't know if when
(23:42):
you talked about having like an outdoor outdoor sump pit installed,
whether there was any soil percolation tests done and not.
That'd be really important because if the soil can't you know,
exhaust that water out of that pit, you would probably
have to put a pump in there to pump it away,
(24:05):
which is fine. But there's a little bit more to
it than just putting a well down in there.
Speaker 4 (24:12):
Sure, my house is a walkout on the bottom, a
lower level, right and the water is pooling so close
to my sliding glass door.
Speaker 1 (24:21):
I'm getting a little yeah, And eventually you're doing the
right thing, Karen. Eventually it's going to become a problem.
I mean, soil land it's always kind of changing, and
if it's not chon of change direction, it's just going
to you know, you get a little bit more erosion,
gives it a little bit more permission to get closer
(24:44):
to the openings of your home. It will eventually become
a problem. So you're spot on. It's a problem. Now
you see where it's going, and inn good. We got
to figure out a way how we control that away
from your property without messa and up something else.
Speaker 4 (25:02):
Okay, all right, all right, Gary, thank you so much.
I listened to you religiously on Sundays, So thank you.
Speaker 1 (25:10):
All right, Karen, thank.
Speaker 4 (25:11):
You, thank you, by bye bye bye.
Speaker 1 (25:14):
All right. Yeah, that's frustrating, but that's you know, it's
there's different laws and things too where you can exit water.
I mean, it gets complicated, but a good excavator. I'm
sure he'll be able to help Karen. All right, let's
get a rose Rose Welcome.
Speaker 5 (25:32):
Hello, that's the row. Yes, yes, I wanted to check.
I had a gazebo on my patio and I used
to tie my Hawaiian plant to one of the legs
of the of the gazebo to keep it from being
blown over by the wind. And so the gazebo has
(25:56):
since rusted out at the top, but I kept the
leg and I want to counter sync some bolts into
the concrete patio and put the head down so that
I can attach the leg to the patio. It's a
(26:21):
six foot tall metal post and it well, it weighs
fourteen pounds, so it's pretty substantial. So I want to
drill holes into four holes. It has a base plate
on it, and I want to draw four holes into
(26:44):
the concrete patio, put the bolt in head down, and
then what do I.
Speaker 6 (26:53):
Fill the holes with?
Speaker 1 (26:55):
Well, actually, there is a product you could do a
couple of things. There is. Quick Creek makes both of them.
One of them is in a POxy. It's an epoxy
anchoring cement, so it comes in a cocking tube. They're
actually using this now with a lot of wrought iron
(27:20):
railings where it used to be, you would draw a
big hole when you would use an anchoring cement in there,
which you can still do, or you can use this
epoxy so it comes in a cocking tube. It actually
mixes as it's coming out of the spout rose so
it's and the size of the hole will be a
(27:44):
little bit large because you're going to have a head
on that and you're gonna put the head down first,
so you're gonna have plenty of room around that bolt.
And you literally just pump this epoxy anchoring cement into
the concrete hole.
Speaker 5 (27:58):
Okay.
Speaker 1 (28:00):
One The other option would be you'd have to make
a hole twice the size of the bolt that you're
going to put in there, So it'd be a bigger hole,
that's for sure, because I imagine you're gonna use three ace
to a half inch threaded bolt. Yeah, you would put
that in there, and you would get anchoring cement. It's
(28:22):
a powder that's mixed with water, and you would put
that in or in the hole. The hole will be
larger than the other hole, and that's how that's how
you'd anchor that.
Speaker 5 (28:38):
Okay, So you think the cocking two.
Speaker 1 (28:43):
Yeah. Yeah, the word cocking doesn't do it justice. It
is literally an epoxy anchoring cement, but it mixes. It's
got a resinant, a hardener and in the tube. Yeah,
I think that's what I would use. That would be
pretty easy to use. It's very ancel and it would
definitely do the job. Now, the other thing you could
(29:05):
consider doing too, is there are anchoring anchors that it's
a bolt or a piece of threaded rod with a
nut on the top, and it has a light steel casing.
So you put that in and then you tighten up
that bolt, all right, and it expands the wings out
(29:26):
of that anchor, and that hole has already been pumped
full of that epoxy, so you push that in and
then you tighten that nut, and then you put the
plate over the nut. The nut is subsurface and the
threaded rod is sticking up. Just another way to do it.
We're kind of getting to the same thing, but you know,
(29:48):
it's got wings out, so there's gonna be a little
bit more grab power there. But I think either way
will work fine.
Speaker 5 (29:56):
Okay, So and then if I eliminate this pole, which
would be the easiest to remove, if I if I
want to take.
Speaker 1 (30:09):
The Oh well, I think no matter what you're gonna do,
you're gonna end up taking uh, you know, some sort
of sow and cutting the bolt off. I think you're
going to pull it out.
Speaker 5 (30:20):
Okay, all right, all right, that sounds great, Thank you.
I wanted to ask a question. A couple of weeks ago. Uh,
A lady had called in and she said that she
had some of the white plastic furniture and that she
(30:41):
got it clean and then she put Millsic on it.
And I was wondering which Millsick.
Speaker 1 (30:49):
It was the actual furniture. Millsick polish cleaner and polish.
Speaker 5 (30:54):
The wood the wood one, yes, uh huh oh okay,
and you just it on and.
Speaker 1 (31:01):
Yeah, that's what she said. I haven't used it. I've
used it on a cast aluminum outdoor table to kind
of make it pop and it worked beautiful, but I've
never used it on the PVC furniture. But yeah, yeah,
it was the furniture one.
Speaker 5 (31:16):
Okay, all right, all right, thank you so much.
Speaker 1 (31:20):
You're quite welcome. Thank you. All right, Well, take a
break and coming back. We got Conrad, and if you'd
like to jump on board and join us I certainly
invite you to do so. We got a few minutes
left to get your call on. It's eight hundred eight
two three eight two five five and you're at home
with Gary Sullivan.
Speaker 3 (31:39):
Help for your home is just a click away at
Garysullivan online dot com.
Speaker 2 (31:44):
This is at home with Gary Sullivan.
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(34:24):
at home with Gary Salvan as we work together on
taking care of some of those maintenance and repair issues
around your home. And if you'd like to join us,
do so as we work our way through the weekend.
Let's go to Conrad. Conrad. Welcome, Hi, Gary, thank you.
Speaker 4 (34:40):
Hey.
Speaker 7 (34:41):
I have a friend who recently bought a home and
she has the gutter down spat drains.
Speaker 1 (34:46):
But of course you're under the ground right But the.
Speaker 7 (34:52):
Where it comes out of the ground is completely clogged.
It's covered with sod grass okay, and I can't find it.
I'm oputting. You can offer me some out of a
suggestion or magical tip and orders defined.
Speaker 1 (35:03):
Well, I don't know about magical tip. I got an
idea if it's covered, and that's a good you know,
what you say is is worth everybody listening to because
where the downspout drains or an underground French drain and
peek their head out of the soil as the topography
(35:26):
slopes down to exit the water. Once that gets clogged,
you're right, it's probably not doing its job either of
dispersing the water as well as it should.
Speaker 7 (35:41):
To tell you, the gut the gutters are backing up
and when we have uh, water damage on a newly
done redone bathroom.
Speaker 1 (35:50):
Right yeah, yeah, for that reason, yeah, exactly so, So
I think what I would do is by trying to
find it. If you put a hose down that down spout, Okay, um,
you're going to have more than just rain water, probably
more pressure and I'm guessing okay, and you won't see
(36:14):
the water flow, but the area right where that pipe
used to exit, where it's clogged or where it's been
covered up, will get saturated. It'll get wet, it'll get soft,
it'll be softer than the rest of the soil, because
it's not that the water is totally blocked. It's just
(36:38):
really slowly dispersing the water. So that's what I would
do at that's but if it just gets real wet,
then you can dig down there and and you know,
unclog it and even get like a little spade in
(37:00):
there play out.
Speaker 7 (37:01):
So yeah, try that and I say that, And I
say that because my other option was to dig around
aimlessly with a Mattek and to hopefully hit something. You know, right,
this will work out. Well, I may still have to
do that, but I'll find moisture, you know work.
Speaker 1 (37:15):
It'll definitely you get enough water down that. And let's
say you put that hose on there and it starts
backing up in the in the down spout, just let
it be, turn the hose off for a while and
then will eventually drain out. At that point it'll start
getting wet.
Speaker 7 (37:34):
Nice, Thank you, park part beating. My question is the
remainder of the down spot due to this exit being clogged,
have about a half inch maybe an inch of mud.
Some is wet, someone is dry. I don't know if
it's dry or not, but it's definitely wet, uh in
the base of my four inch drain pipe. How do
(37:56):
I go about getting that out of there? Is there
a way? Give me some?
Speaker 1 (38:00):
So? So where's this at? Is this? Tell me again?
Where is this mud?
Speaker 7 (38:06):
Well? As I mentioned, the the drain pipe is clogged
and now there's a half inch or maybe I can't
even remember it. I stucked my hand down in there.
One thing, I pulled the down spot out of the
uh pipe and stuck my hand and there's a half
inch of mud and out of direction because it tees
(38:27):
off into another area that goes up to a different
but there's mud in there. Did I just let that
go and let it drain eventually or well? With the hose?
Speaker 1 (38:40):
So how would you get to it? You would disconnect
where the down spout meets the pipe going underground, Yes, sir, Yeah,
that's that's that's interesting because that also, you know, maybe
is telling you there's another problem down.
Speaker 7 (38:56):
There, a crack pipe.
Speaker 1 (38:58):
Yeah, exactly. So you know, the way you could get
it down is, you know, when you disconnect it, you
could maybe take a hand trial, you know, like a
garden tower. They maybe have one with about a you
can get a long one which maybe has a twelve
inch blade to it where you could kind of dig
(39:18):
that out. Another thing is maybe try blasting it out
once you disconnect it. If we can take a hose
with a hard stream, or if you have a you know,
maybe an electric pressure washer where you're not gonna have
too much pressure and just kind of blast that pipe.
Speaker 7 (39:37):
Out right, or maybe grab one of those like you mentioned,
grab one of those hose nozzles that have a high pressure, right,
shove that dot in there and let it do some work.
Speaker 1 (39:48):
Yeah, because you can get up to I think six
hundred pounds per square inch of water pressure out of
a solid stream hose with good water pressure. So I'd
probably try clean it up that way. And another tip too,
you know, before we get into that, if we get
that cleaned out and you want to have that pipe
inspected and maybe you also want to find out where
(40:10):
it ends, is get somebody out there or rent a
pipe camera where you just run a coil down there
and you can see the you know, the whole pipe,
and you can also have how much cable you're running
in there to tell you where it ends or where
it's blocked.
Speaker 7 (40:28):
That's pretty awesome. You're a great guy, Gary, Thank you.
Speaker 1 (40:31):
Thank all right, You very good. Thanks Connor and I
appreciate thank you. All right, and let's go to Joe. Joe.
Speaker 6 (40:38):
Welcome, Thank you, Gary, sir. Quick question, I've got two
steps down from the house onto a concrete patio. We've
been here about a year and a half. They get
morning sun from eight o'clock till maybe one in the afternoon.
But looking at the steps, even though it's treated wood
(40:59):
and all that, nothing's been done to it. Am I
better off to seal that with some sort of clear sealer.
Sh I paint it?
Speaker 7 (41:06):
What would you recommend?
Speaker 1 (41:10):
I would get something on it? Are you doing it
to protect it or are you doing it for cosmetics.
Speaker 7 (41:18):
Protection?
Speaker 1 (41:19):
Okay, all right, so yes, I would definitely seal it.
Pressure treated would Actually its main foe is not necessarily water.
It can be if if the wood splits, because that
pressure treatment's only down about a quarter of an inch
or so. But the main foe is the sun, the
(41:41):
ultraviolet rays of the sun, And over a large period
of time, that pressure treated wood will crack because of
the sun there's no UV block in the wood, and
then it'll open up the wood where water can get
to it and rot will occur. That's how it fails.
So if you use like a deck sealer, you're gonna
(42:02):
have all kinds of you know, you can get it
in brown, you can get in gray, you can get
it in cedar, you can get it in redwood. The
darker the color, the better the UV protection is. If
you put a clear sealer on there. It'll keep the
water out and maybe some sunshine, but it's overall protective
(42:26):
qualities will be gone in a year or two. So
you know, if you can get a brown or something
like that, you're gonna get another extra year. And get
a real good quality, you get another extra year. But
by rule of thumb, you're probably not gonna with morning sun.
You probably won't get more three or four years of
protection from the sun. It'll begin to fade or wear
(42:48):
or whatever. So just knowing that paint will give you
better protection. It'll get you up past five, six, seven years.
The problem with the paint is it's not a wood color.
It's paint. It's a surface protection, so it can be slippery,
and if you have to redo it, you will Eventually
(43:09):
you're gonna have to strip or remove that paint.
Speaker 6 (43:13):
How do I avoid this slippery part? Is there a
certain kind that would have a little bit of granular.
Speaker 1 (43:19):
Yeah, not too much. You can get a you can
get a silica sand, you can sprinkle the paint in there.
There's also I think it's called shark bite, shark grip,
or shark bite. I get those in the connectors mixed up.
It's a plastic little sphere, real small that sprinkled on
the surface, which you'll add some protection, but in no
(43:42):
honesty really, for where that's at, i'd probably i'd probably
put a semi transparent chestnut brown stain on there. If
you can. It'll give you three or four years, and
if you need a little more in four years. Listen,
there's no saying, no scraping, there's just clean it and reapply.
(44:06):
All right, Joe, thank you very much, and good luck
with that. Yeah, that's you definitely want to get some
protection on there or that would will rot even though
it's pressure treated, because that would will split. Danny boy,
thank you. A good fun weekend and a good pace. Yes,
but Danny and me both busy and we appreciate that.
(44:26):
Good Lord willing. We'll be back next weekend for more
At Home with Gary Sullivan.
Speaker 3 (44:48):
Time to get your hands dirty with Gary Sullivan. Give
them a call at eight two three talk You're at
Home with Gary Sullivant.
Speaker 1 (45:04):
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