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August 31, 2025 44 mins
Gary's great tips.  
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Speaker 1 (00:30):
Well, the weekend is with us. Welcome aboard at Home
with Gary Sullivan, and this hour is brought to you
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(01:15):
We thank them for sponsoring this hour of the show.
As we continue to take your calls, our phone number
is eight hundred eight two three A two five five.
You can grab a line. The lines are wide open.
Danny Boys poised to take your call, and you know
one of the things to check and again, with a

(01:36):
fewer calls, gives me an opportunity to kind of give
you a rundown of well, things to check this time
of year, or just things to check. We talk about
a walk around the house, we talk about getting up
in the attic. The other thing we talk a lot
about during this show is ventilation, and so where do

(01:56):
you have ventilation? Well, you know we have ventilation windows.
We talked about taking care of those and how to
take care of those. We've talked about bathroom ventilation, kitchen
ventilation and where that is vented can make a big,
big difference, and how you're using that ventilation can make

(02:20):
a big difference. So the ventilation on the fans, bathroom
and kitchen should always be vented to the outside of
the house. I know many of you probably don't know
where that's vented, and getting somebody up in the attic,
you will quickly find out some of them are just
sitting right there on the insulation, which is terrible. You're

(02:42):
bringing that hot, steamy air right into the attic and
wetting the ventilation, and of course it's going to get moldy.
And others are hanging from a rafter and having increased
moisture and air and condensation, the inside attic gets moldy.
So they should be vented outside and always a good

(03:02):
idea that just periodically check to make sure that that's true,
you know, and make sure it's properly vented out, not
just blowing that warm moist air into the attic. All
right again, and let's talk to Frank. Frank, Welcome morning, mommy,
Gary morning.

Speaker 2 (03:24):
About I got one by twelve Pine facier boards on
my house and I noticed that one of the boards
sat a little bit of dry rot in the one
spot on the whole board, and you had said something
about it. You had some sort of filler or something

(03:44):
you could use on that or stop it.

Speaker 1 (03:46):
From Yeah, yeah, I guess the first thing is, you know,
trying to decide exactly how and why that began to
rot a lot of times on the facia board. Those
gutters aren't you know, tight against the soffat board or
the overhanging shingle doesn't go into the gutter, and the
water's getting be high in that gutter, So you know,

(04:08):
check that. But as far as patching up a wood
that has dry rot or has rotting taken place, there's
a product out there called woody Pox. I think it's
the best one on the market. And they also have
a companion product called liquid wood, and you might be

(04:33):
able to use both. You might just want to use one.
But the liquid wood what it does is, rather than
scraping it all off, all the rotted wood off, you
can put this liquid wood onto the soft spongy wood
and it hardens it. And that may be what you

(04:55):
need to do, or if it's a deeper whole, and
you could use the liquid wood to harden that softwood
to create a good base and then use the wood
a pox to go over it and fill it. They're
both standible, they're both paintable. You know, you can run

(05:16):
screws in them, nails in them, whatever. But it's made
by a company called Abatron. And again it's called woody
pox and liquid wood.

Speaker 3 (05:26):
And you say park p O c k p O
x o X.

Speaker 1 (05:32):
Right, would e poxron Abitron.

Speaker 3 (05:39):
Abaitron, Because I know why it happened, and I'm a cop.
And what happened was I had a shingle uh on
the face of that for a while, or a piece
of strap and and and it used to catch the
water and wet. That's why, yeah, what I mean. So
I took that off and then I noticed it was

(06:00):
a little bit of a rock behind it.

Speaker 1 (06:02):
You know, right, Well, good, so you got the problem corrected. Now,
just trying to patch it up a little bit exactly.

Speaker 3 (06:11):
Yeah, I don't want to change the whole one by
twelve board because it's like fifteen feet long.

Speaker 2 (06:16):
Sixteen feet long.

Speaker 1 (06:17):
Yeah, yeah, well grab some of that. I've seen the
wood epox at home depot and I'm sure some you
know your ace and do it. Best stores have it also.

Speaker 3 (06:29):
And liquid would have the same product.

Speaker 1 (06:31):
Well, liquid wood is just something to give that wood.
It hardens soft wood. So if you have a relatively
deep patch that has to occur, you probably want to
remove as much of that as you can and then
put the liquid wood in there to firm up the

(06:52):
base and then use the wood epox on top. Or
if it's just kind of light spongy wood, you can
use the wood of pox in a really kind of
hardened it and you've already corrected the problem. It just
kind of hardens it. It's not really a patch. It's
more like a tongue oil that would I don't know
if it's tongue oil, but it's like a tongue oil

(07:12):
that are really hardened that particular.

Speaker 3 (07:16):
It stops it from rotting.

Speaker 1 (07:18):
Correct, correct, correct.

Speaker 3 (07:20):
That's pretty good stuff.

Speaker 1 (07:22):
Yeah again abtron A b I t r O n
ab bitron Okay, all right, appreciate, thank you, have a
great weekend, Frank, take care. Bye bye. It's good Ed,
Ed welcome.

Speaker 4 (07:43):
Gary, Gary, you're a life saver.

Speaker 1 (07:45):
Oh, thank you. I hope.

Speaker 4 (07:46):
So I've been listening to you for fifty years.

Speaker 1 (07:51):
It feels like it's sometimes. Ed.

Speaker 4 (07:54):
Well, you've got a lot of stuff that are going on,
but this is going on from the beginning. When I
first bought the home, the guess so was never used
as soon as I found out that there was no
vent for it. Okay, the rodents have made a home
in the back there, but they're very quiet.

Speaker 1 (08:17):
So the question is what.

Speaker 4 (08:21):
The question is there? There's a health problem, and the
town and the state and the Consumer Product Safety Commission
that threw their hands up and don't want to do anything.

Speaker 5 (08:31):
Mm hmm.

Speaker 4 (08:33):
And there's no there's no kit that came with it.

Speaker 1 (08:37):
Well, well, is there a place to vent it? It
may not have a kit. You can buy a kit
for them. I know there's an there's an up draft
vent and then there's a down draft vent. So it
depends on you know, I mean, nobody else is going
to do anything about it, that's for sure. Uh, there's
been a lot in the news just about the importance

(08:59):
of having you know, they were talking and people were
freaking out about you know, we're getting rid of gas stoves. Well,
maybe the government's going to ban it or not.

Speaker 6 (09:08):
I don't know.

Speaker 1 (09:09):
I don't want to get into that, but the bottom
line is you should have a gas stove vented period.
And they make them where they're updraft vents and down
draft vents. I don't know your exact situation, but what
I would do is, you know, if you're looking at
correcting that problem, is get somebody out there to see

(09:32):
if they can invent that stove. I don't think anybody's
going to do it for you, so that that would
be my suggestion. It should be vented. And you know,
also just from a standpoint of fumes, we're always talking
about as our homes get tighter, and that's that's the deal.
Our homes, for the most part, even older homes are

(09:56):
you know, more sealed than they've ever been. We can
pump foam in the walls, we can seal that way.
We've got better windows, we got better doors, and the
more we seal those pollutants in our home, the more
important it is to have air exchanges in proper venting.
So it doesn't sound like that's a good situation that
you have, and I would look at correcting it for sure.

(10:18):
All right. Our phone numbers eight hundred eight two three
eight two five five. You can grab a line. We're
talking about your home and you're at home with Gary Sullivan.

Speaker 7 (10:27):
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classes began at one eight hundred eight two three taw
You're at Home with Gary Sullivan.

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Speaker 5 (12:54):
Com and you're at.

Speaker 1 (13:09):
Home with Gary Salvan as we take your calls regarding
home projects. If you'd like to join us, please do.
We've got an open line at eight hundred A two
three A two five five, happy to take your calls
as we work our way through another weekend and then
my locale great weather, so I hope you're having the same.

(13:30):
We talk a lot about wood decks, kind of open
the show today talking about waterproofing below a deck. If
you have a story Jerry or something along nose lines,
But if you really need to think about your deck
in terms of I know you don't want to work
on it, I know you don't want to clean, I

(13:50):
know you don't want to seal it. But for the
most part, if you have a deck in direct sunlight,
and it's a semi transparent deck in other words, stain
and you can see the wood grain through it. You're
probably gonna find yourself staining that every three or four
years at the most, maybe it's every two to three years,

(14:14):
depending on what kind of sealers you're using. Had somebody
yesterday said they'd like to clear deck sealers and they clean,
they seal it, it doesn't last more in eight months.
And I'm telling you a clear deck seiler you're going
to do every year. There's nothing in there that's really
blocking the UV rays of the sun. And if you

(14:36):
let it go longer that that deck is going to
have other issues. It's going to have splinters, it's going
to have a raised wood grain, it's going to turn
gray and periodically if you're if you're not going to
clean it, you're not going to seal it. The one
thing I would do is I would inspect it. I

(14:57):
know we talk a lot about inspecting things on this show,
but it's so important. Maintenance is the key. I coined
a phrase many years ago. A lot of times we
have five dollars repairs and they're not made, and then
they're fifty dollars repaired and they're not made, and then
it's five hundred bucks and it goes up to scale.

(15:17):
But if you don't use your deck that much, you
don't really maintain your deck that much. I mean just
use it on occasion, so you're not really looking and
seeing what's going on. Take time to just inspect the deck.
Let's just make sure it's safe. And you can inspect

(15:37):
your deck. Look for loose screws, nails that are beginning
to pop up. And quite honestly, if you have nails
that are popping up, you can try and drive him
back down in the deck. But in a lot of
cases that holes now bigger than the nail and you'd
be better off running a deck screw right next to it,

(15:59):
pulling that nail out and patching that hole. Also, look
for you know, we went through the AQM, which was
a deck pressure treating. Right after they used they switched
the way they pressure treat would. AQM is the stamp

(16:20):
on the wood. And after that was out and about,
we found out that just regular zinc choice hangers and
zinc nails and zinc screws, there was a reaction with
that AQM and they rusted and in some cases caused

(16:41):
big time safety issues. So I want you to also
just check the fasteners, the choicehangers and look for rusted metal,
whether it's the screws, the nails, the choice hangers, and
get those replaced. You can use galvanized, can use stainless steel,

(17:04):
You can use titanium screws, but those regular zinc ones
will cause problem. Maybe old news, but there's probably some
old decks that have those on. Also, we talked about
the soffitt Is Russ, you know, rotting as that fella
had described, but we also have that rotting wood on decks.

(17:28):
You know that that pressure treatment's only down in that
wood so far, probably never more in a quarter of
an inch. You get a hole in there, or that
deck green raises and then splits and you can take
a pencil let and stick it down in there. I'm
telling you that's going to hold water and it's going

(17:50):
to rot, whether it's pressure treat or not. So going
through there, check for you know, like I said, rusted hardware,
raised grains, cracked grains, loose nails, wobbly connections, those all

(18:10):
can lead to serious structural problems and they need to
be fixed. And if it's an area that you have
on your home, but you really aren't out on that
deck and enjoying that deck. You may not even know
that's going on. And you do want to go ahead
and inspect that. I mean, we can spend a lot

(18:32):
of time inspecting the X tiar of our homes. I
had an occasion to help my friend just take a
kind of create a little maintenance around the X tier
of his home. And you don't have to be a
home improvement expert. I always say, if it doesn't look right,

(18:54):
it's not find out what caused it and find out
how to fix it. And I'd be happy to talk
to you about that today. And one of the things
that's easily ignored, I think is calking around windows. And
we found several of his windows where the cocking had

(19:15):
just shrunk and pulled a win. There's a gap and
water was probably getting in there. We can talk about
how to fix that and take your calls at eight
hundred eight two three eight two five five. That's next.
You're at Home with Gary Sullivan.

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Speaker 1 (22:11):
Chatting a little bit about home improvement, Thanks for joining me.
You're at home with Gary Sullivan talking about your home
maintenance and repair issues. And let's get back to the phones.
We have Charles, Charles welcome, Thank you, Gary.

Speaker 9 (22:26):
Can you hear me?

Speaker 1 (22:27):
I can? Yes.

Speaker 9 (22:29):
Okay, So two things. I'm going to be installing a
lifetime storage shed. It's made out of some kind of
plastic material. It's ten by eighteen and a half. And
they recommend that you put a concrete pad in before
you install the shed, okay. And I was wondering whether

(22:53):
once that concrete pad is placed, should I seal it
with something or is that not necessary?

Speaker 10 (23:03):
Whatever?

Speaker 1 (23:04):
You can seal it as a you know, kind of
as a maintenance issue. I'm not really necessarily saying it
would have to be sealed, to be honest with you,
if you had, you know, if it's a sidewalker driveway, yes,
But my guess is this will have a vapor barrier
beneath that slab. It'll be on a good found you know, foundation,

(23:26):
or at least a gravel base, and it's really not
going to get much weather. It's so I would say,
you know, you could put when you do the concrete pad,
I'd put a cure seal compound on there, and I'd
probably just let it be.

Speaker 9 (23:44):
A cure seal compound.

Speaker 1 (23:46):
Yeah, so when you when you pour a pad, that
just helps it cure and as this you know cure
it a you know, nice even flow. I don't know
where in California you are, but maybe if you don't
have extreme temper or anything along those lines, that even
wouldn't be necessary. But it just helps with the curing process,

(24:07):
nice and even. And it does have a seiler on
there and it's protected. Again, it's not going to last forever,
but that would have a little benefit. And that's about
the only thing I'd put on there, Charles, to be
honest with you.

Speaker 9 (24:19):
Okay, And what's that called again?

Speaker 1 (24:21):
A quick crete makes it? It's called cure and seal,
cure and seal, Yes, sir.

Speaker 9 (24:29):
Do you put it on immediately after the concrete is.

Speaker 1 (24:34):
Yep? You can spray it on. It can be used
either way. It can be sprayed on after a newly
formed concrete for the curing process or if you just
want to use it as a seiler. It creates a
satin the seal on there. But if you're pouring it,
I'd take advantage of the curing mechanism and the ceiling
mechanism and put it on there, let it dry, let

(24:57):
the concrete set, and then put your shut up.

Speaker 9 (25:02):
Okay. And then how long should I wait after the
concrete is poured before I go fooling around and putting
the shed up.

Speaker 1 (25:10):
I'd say once it's you know, probably within a week.
Concrete usually takes I mean, concrete continues to harden forever,
but it's usually what they determine no longer green is
twenty eight days. So if you want to be ultimately assured,
twenty eight days would be fine. But I'd say in

(25:31):
a week you could put it up there.

Speaker 9 (25:34):
Okay. The other question I have is do you have
any experience with a product called gutter brush.

Speaker 1 (25:40):
I do, Yes, I have them in my house.

Speaker 9 (25:42):
Actually, okay, So I guess is it a good product?
I mean, is it worth the expense?

Speaker 1 (25:52):
And well, the claim to fame with gutter brush is
it's not real expensive compared to other, you know, gutter
ard type products that are out on the market. I've
had great luck with them. The only you know, I mean,
there's nothing that's perfect when it comes to clean, you know,

(26:13):
keeping clean gutters. To be honest with you, if you've
got an area with a whole bunch of pine trees
or something. You may have to pull out those brushes,
you know, every couple two three years, and hose them
off and slide them back in. Uh. But you know,
for regular you know, regular amount of trees around it.
I've got one gutter that I have to pull the

(26:35):
guards out or the brushes out and spray them off
of the hose about every two years.

Speaker 9 (26:42):
Would you say that having those gutter brushes in there
makes the process of maintaining the gutters easier, then.

Speaker 1 (26:47):
Just yeah, I would think. So I don't have to
dig out all that gunk and stuff. So you know,
I literally take them out and throw them on the ground,
then go down and get the hose and score them
all off and then slide them get them up there
and slide them back in. There's no tools really needed
to install them. They just slide in. They're just a
barrier so that it doesn't lay on the bottom of

(27:09):
the gutter and start clogging up where the downspout is.
Some of the stuff just blows off the bristles over time. Again,
if there's an abundance of thin needles or something and
may be come entangled in the brush and the sun
breaks it down and it gets a little gooey and
you just pull the brush out and you know, hows

(27:30):
them off.

Speaker 9 (27:32):
Okay, that sounds good. One last question about the gutter brush.
Does it come in different sizes? I mean, aren't some
gutters bigger than others?

Speaker 1 (27:40):
Or yeah? Sure. That's another claim to fame with them
is it'll fit on all types of gutters, and I
think they make them down to three inch size up
to an eight inch size for commercial gutters. It'll work
on tile roofs, slate roofs, shingled roofs, metal roofs. That
will work on all types roofs.

Speaker 9 (28:02):
Okay, all right, that's great, Thank you, very thank you
for the advice.

Speaker 1 (28:06):
You're quite welcome. Thank you. Take care my mind, all right,
and let's get dead ed.

Speaker 10 (28:11):
Welcome, Hi, good morning, Thank you for taking my call.

Speaker 1 (28:17):
You bet so.

Speaker 10 (28:20):
I've got a con heart redwood deck really like it
had a contractor put it in. The decking is two
by six, has a slight radius to each board quarter
inch gap. Okay, very standard. All good. Now, when we
put the deck in, we wanted to build it around

(28:42):
a avocado tree in the front yard. And I really
liked the avocado tree too, But the two don't get
along well. The avocado leaves, they're just an evil design.
When the leaves fall and it's a prolific leaf drop

(29:07):
a tree, the leaves get caught between the gaps, get
caught in the gaps, and the petioles on those leaves
have hooks, and it's just so resistant to using leaf blowers,
even a garden hose. It's just a nightmare every single day.

(29:29):
You know, if you want to use the deck, you
got to get out there and just manually remove anyway,
The reason I'm calling is, do you have any ideas
on what I can do to like fill that gap.
I don't want to have to reset all the boards
and I don't want to put like plywood over it obviously,

(29:50):
So what are my options?

Speaker 1 (29:54):
Well, you don't want to fill them because that's going
to be a maintenance nightmare more than the leaves. Wood
is usually put together tight and then it shrinks and
creates the gap, especially on pressure tree wood. Redwood may

(30:15):
be a little bit different. But if they did space
them where there's a quarter inch gap, I don't really
know what you're going to do about that. I mean,
it's it's a design flaw. It's not the fault of
the wood. It's not the fall of the tree. Tree
is going to do what a tree does, and you

(30:38):
know it would be different, Like you know, I mean
if you the only thing I can think of is
this a design flaw when you know, if you went
with wood, you're always going to have a little bit
of a seam. If you go with a composite, composite
swells and you actually create an eighth inch gap between
the boards and a swell tight and so that there'll

(31:01):
be a little tighter finish. But you know that's a
big project.

Speaker 10 (31:06):
It is.

Speaker 4 (31:07):
Yeah.

Speaker 10 (31:08):
Yeah, And I, like I said, I really don't want
to have to take the tree out because I appreciate
the shade.

Speaker 1 (31:14):
Yeah, it's just a you know, you got a tree
that's it's gonna you're not gonna change that. And you
don't want to go filling and cocking that in because
then that calcking is going to break loose and it's
going to be unsightly and you're still going to have
the same problem over time.

Speaker 10 (31:34):
Yeah. No, I thought there might be some sort of
like plastic strips, the kind of triangular shape or.

Speaker 1 (31:42):
Something that kind of like a t rail or something.

Speaker 10 (31:45):
Exactly seasonally put in there.

Speaker 1 (31:49):
Well, there may be there. There may be something like that.
I mean it would be like a t molding where
it would snap in again. I don't know if all
that space is exact, and then can you find that
trail where that part that would be inserted is going
to grip it's going to be exact. I mean that

(32:11):
that's maybe we're searching for. But you could also if
it's not exact, it's gonna it could be a tripping hazard.
Then you also got to get the right color, and
you're probably not going to be able to do that.
You know, it's probably not gonna be a wood color.
It's gonna be a chocolate brown or a white or

(32:32):
something where it's going to look it's gonna look what
it is, you know, it's you know, I don't don't
really know there. There's a a product I just learned
about not too long ago. It's called insta deck, and
insta deck is a tracking that's put over the existing

(32:55):
wood and you snap or you insert the posit decking
right into those tracks. I don't know if there's a
gap in that or not, but you would be covering
up the existing deck without you know, without removing the

(33:16):
boards and stuff, right, And I don't know is this
leaf drop Is it consistently consistently through the summer and
fall or the spring, or is it just like two
weeks or you.

Speaker 10 (33:30):
Know, it's it's really year round.

Speaker 1 (33:32):
Yeah.

Speaker 10 (33:34):
The type of tree is called a bacon avocado tree,
and it drops fruit in the springtime. But the leaves
are just a nightmare. And then the small dead twigs
stems that fall off to they all get stuck in there.
And if I pressure wash it, I can clean it,

(33:54):
but I want to be careful not to remove the finish, correct.

Speaker 1 (34:00):
I mean, you can even do an indoor or outdoor.
They got some fancy decorative carpets. They're not too big.
I don't know how big that deck is. But maybe
you'd still be sweeping it though. I mean you'd still
use a sweeper to get up all that stuff, or
a shop back. It wouldn't be caught in the grooves.
But I think you, I think you just got a

(34:20):
product of the environment right there. It's probably a bad design.

Speaker 10 (34:26):
Yeah, yeah, it's just it's it's a conflict.

Speaker 1 (34:29):
Yeah.

Speaker 10 (34:30):
So well, I'm I'm a forester, and I fortunately I
didn't take a hippocratical to know arm the trees. So
so I've always got.

Speaker 1 (34:38):
That, all right, Sorry, I couldn't help you. Uh huh
bye bye. Yeah, even thinking about that, I I don't
know if you're familiar with a product called more Tite,
it's a clay roping usually comes in gray, but they
do have one in brown. But even that, pushing that interret,

(35:00):
it's going to be messy and it's not going to
be a long term solution. I think it's just a
bad design. In fact, I will I'll tell you this.
I had a patio and I wanted to extend it,
and around that patio was a lattice work and then

(35:22):
with a like maybe one by two firm strips for
a ceiling or for a shade, and that too, when
we extended the patio, we incorporated a tree. It was

(35:44):
it was a very nice tree which created tremendous amounts
of shade. And it wasn't through a deck. He was
playing obviously in the ground and the concrete radius went
around it. But we too found that, you know, it
was really nice in the summer, it was also really
messy in the in the fall and even in the

(36:04):
early spring, so it always looks nice, but there certainly
is more maintenance to it. We'll take a break, come back,
we got Doug. You're at home with Gary Sullivan. Help
for your home.

Speaker 7 (36:16):
Is just a click away at Garysullivan online dot com.
This is at Home with Gary Sullivan.

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Speaker 1 (38:50):
All right, back at it we go on nine minutes
before the top of they are taking your calls at
eight hundred and eight two three eight two five five
talking home improvement and Doug. Welcome morning, Gary.

Speaker 10 (39:04):
I was wondering if you could give me the name
of the product for granite countertops that clean, polish and seal.
Is that three separate bottles.

Speaker 1 (39:15):
Or let me think about this. So the name of
the company that makes that, I mean, Jaws makes a
granite cleaner, but if you're looking for something that cleans
in seals, that would be granite Gold. So they make
a cleaner and a ceiler. They make it even in

(39:37):
a spray or they make it with wipes, which is
kind of cool. The polish is a separate product, so
you can do the cleaning in the ceiling and then
if you want to periodically polish it, you would just
you know, use a granite cleaner and then just use
these this polish, which is a spray or I think

(40:00):
it has wipes also, and that polish it really is
is kind of cool. I have to admit that when
it first came out, I'm like, I don't know if
I'm cleaning it and ceiling, do I gotta polish it?
It's very simple. It kind of kind of would clean
it too. I would guess. I just use it periodically
when I just want to just really enhance. It really

(40:23):
enhances the granite look so it it looks best when
you use the polish. To be honest with the sealer,
not all granite needs to be sealed, So do test
that first. Take you know, a tablespoon or a tea
spoon of water and just put it on the granite.
See if it soaks into the granite. Okay, it's not

(40:46):
going to alsow in, but see if you can see
it being absorbed into the granite. If it hasn't done
that in a minute, I wouldn't I just clean it
and polish it. I wouldn't use the sealer.

Speaker 9 (40:57):
Very good, Thank you very much.

Speaker 10 (40:59):
It's a big one.

Speaker 1 (40:59):
It's six okay, yeah, Well some granites are more porous
than others. That's really what it comes down to. And
it's it's interesting, as I've talked to a lot of
fabricators and someone will tell you all seal it every year.
Other people say, you know, test it. Other people say,
don't seal it at all. So it is a natural stone,

(41:21):
it certainly could need to be sealed, and I go
back to the old testing it because if it's not
going to absorb the seal or there's no sense in
using it. And if it absorbs it, you better seal
it because it could be red wine or kids kool
aid and you don't want to stain it. So yeah,
always test. Kind of sounds like the whole decking thing too.

(41:45):
I I've played the game with the decking industry for
a long time, a real long time, and at first
it was never needs to be sealed, don't have to
do anything with it. Well, we all quickly found out
that was a bunch of bunk. And then it was
you gotta wait a year, And we all waited a year,

(42:08):
and sometimes the sun did damage to the wood in
a year. Then it was, oh, you can do it
in two weeks. Well, then we started having shiny spots
because all the the deck wasn't dried out, it couldn't
absorb the semi transparent seilers, and now we're into well

(42:30):
solid color stains. And I do agree with this solid
color stains in painting a deck. You shouldn't do that
for a year period. It's been like that since day one,
and it should still be that way, semi transparent. We
don't know how long it sat in the lumberyard, but
it's probably not going to accept it very well in
two weeks. But I don't think you need to wait

(42:53):
a year at all. If it's a sunny location. Within
a month or so, you probably go out there with
again spray bottle. Missed missed some moisture on the surface
of that deck. If it's absorbed into that would guess
what it'll take the stain, So you can go ahead
and do it same kind of way with the granted.

(43:13):
So that's always a good little plan because it's important
that those penetrants penetrate, otherwise it's not doing anybody any good,
all right, taking your calls and talking a little home improvement.
By the way, each and every hour of this weekend
show is available to you via podcast, so you can

(43:35):
go on the iHeart app and a lot of good
tips there for your home maintenance and repair issues. You
of course always have around the home and maybe some
things you didn't know about. You could take it and
take a listen as you take your morning walks. That's
all on the iHeart app and just you know, magnifying glass.
At Home with Gary Sullivan. All right, we'll continue with

(43:56):
your calls. You're at Home with Gary Sullivan.

Speaker 7 (44:22):
Solutions to your home improvement are as easy as calling
one eight hundred eighty two three talk. This is at
Home with Gary Sullivan.

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