April 5, 2025 • 31 mins
Dean continues to figure out what’s causing the ceiling to sag down. Dean says to avoid painting concrete patio due to the moisture it creates and wear and tear usage + exterior epoxy concrete coating. Lastly, Dean advices a caller with their broken toilet tank and replacing their laminated floor.
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Episode Transcript
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Speaker 1 (00:00):
KFI AM six forty. You're listening to Dean Sharp, the
House Whisper on demand on the iHeart Radio app. KFI
I AM forty Live dreaming me be everywhere on the
iHeart Radio app. Hey, it's Dean Sharp, the House Whisperer.
(00:20):
I am here with you live like I am every
Saturday morning from six to eight Pacific time and Sunday
mornings nine to noon Pacific time. Hey, don't miss tomorrow's
show as well. Three hours we're gonna spend here at
the beginning of remodeling season, talking about kitchen cabinets or
cabinets in general, cabinet tree and I have in studio
(00:43):
with me a very very special guest, John Cordero of
The Kitchen Store, my favorite kitchen cabinet design studio in
all of southern California. And John a master expert on cabinets,
a master cabinet maker himself. And so literally we are
going to he and I be talking to you about
(01:05):
all things cabinets, the things that have changed, the things
you should be looking for, the things you need to
understand about cabinets. It's just going to be a fantastic show.
Don't miss it. That's tomorrow from nine to noon Pacific time,
or catch us on the podcast, which, of course you know,
every one of our episodes becomes the House Whisper Podcast
(01:25):
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(01:47):
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lot of good stuff, all right. Also, let me tell
you if your home is in need of more personal
(02:08):
house Whisperer attention, you're thinking, wow, it would be nice
to just have Dean and Tina sitting in our living
room as we discuss that thing over there with them
and have them solve it for us. You can do that.
You can book an in home design consult with us,
even if you don't live in southern California. We have ways,
We have our ways. You can book an in home
(02:30):
design consult with me and the tea. Just go to
house Whisperer dot Design House Whisperer dot Design. All right,
back to the phones, because we're taking calls this morning.
It's my favorite thing to do of all things, that
just talking to you about what's going on with your home.
I've got Fred on the line. Hopefully I did not
(02:52):
hang up on Fred. Fred, you're still with me, yes,
I am okay. So Fred's got a ranch style home,
single story rand style home, and in his living room,
family room area, the ceiling is sagging and he's concerned,
and you should be concerned because that's not normal. But
I want to try and get to the bottom of
(03:13):
it for you. Yeah, you haven't had anybody go up
into the attic to look, and so I'm just going
to start off by saying Fred that we got to
do that. We got to get up there and see
because there's a couple of different things that can be
happening when a ceiling is sagging and on a single
story ranch style home and your home was built in
the nineteen fifties, so it's an older home on a
(03:37):
single story ranch style home. I will help you in
this sense that even if it's what we call and
I'm using my air quotes here, a structural problem, it
is not an end of the world, you know, oh
my gosh, my house is going to fall down structural problem.
(03:58):
What it is is one of two things. The way
a home is built, the way homes were built in
nineteen fifties and still most homes today, is the ceiling.
What makes up the ceiling is first and foremost in
the framing of your home what we call ceiling joists,
and those are larger pieces of wood that are running
(04:21):
all the way across from one side of the room
to the other, and they're sitting next to each other
with spaces in between. They're sitting sixteen inches on center.
They're sitting thirteen and three eight inches apart from each other. Okay,
you made me get technicality. Every sixteen inches there is
a ceiling joist. Now, I don't know the size of
(04:42):
the ceiling joists for your home because they vary from
home to home and track to tract, and depending on
the overall span, you say you've got about three hundred
square feet. That's a nice sized room. So it's a
good span that they're making across there. It wouldn't surprise me.
I mean, they have to be at least two by
six ceiling joye. Unless they're part of a trust system,
(05:06):
that's a whole nother kind of magilla. I doubt it, though,
if there's a structural sag chances are in nineteen fifty seven.
Speaker 2 (05:15):
A clue they call the Crashman home. I don't know
that helps you on that.
Speaker 1 (05:21):
A craftsman home.
Speaker 2 (05:23):
That's what they call it. At least, yeah, that's what
my neighbors told They call it Cushman home.
Speaker 1 (05:28):
Yeah, it doesn't help a whole lot. It doesn't help
a whole lot because that's a style. That's an architectural style.
It doesn't really refer to what's you know, what's being
built in the bones. But the point is this, you've
got these ceiling joys going across your ceiling that they're
making the span they are the real ceiling and then
(05:50):
screwed or nailed to the bottom. And in the nineteen
fifties it is going to be nailed to the bottom
of that those ceiling joys is going to be a
layer of drywall. That's the wall. The ceiling that you
look at all the time is the drywall. The drywall
is five eighths of an inch thick, and its big sheets,
big four by eight sheets that run across. So when
we see a sag, a sag that concerns us, when
(06:13):
our ceiling is bowing down, it's one of two things,
almost always one. The dry wall has let loose, has
detached itself, or a portion of it has detached itself
from the bottom of those actual wood ceiling joists. The
ceiling joists may be still sitting there straight as an arrow,
(06:36):
strong as ever, but because of water damage leaky roof,
water and drywall don't mix well. They get mutty. The
drywall gets mushy, and then it lets go of its
grip on the nails that have nailed it into the ceiling.
Or just time age a few earthquakes. Who knows. It's
(06:58):
hard to tell exactly what the reasons are, but sometimes
dry wall ceilings let go of some of the joists
that they are supposed to be held tight against, and
as a result, the ceiling starts to bow down. Now
is that a threat structural? Technically, it's not a structural
threat because the structure is intact. Kind of the essence
(07:21):
is that the skin is sagging but the bone is straight. Okay,
The more serious thing would be if that sag that
is happening is because the bone has sagged, meaning the
I'm using my body metaphor here, but meaning that the
wood joists themselves are deflecting down or sagging down. That
(07:44):
could happen because a wood joye has a kind of
intrinsic crack into in it that it eventually gave way,
or the wood joist naturally sometimes wants to bow with
age and it bows in the direction we don't want
it to bow in, or something impacted it and it broke.
But here is the thing, my friend Fred, we have
(08:06):
got to get these are these are This is just
me telling you what the the most likely possible causes are.
And what we need to do is we got to
get eyes on. We've got to get somebody, a qualified
contractor up into your attic space to take a look
at what's happening. And it'll be easy to see when
(08:27):
somebody who knows what they're looking for is in the
attic space. If I was to crawl into your attic
space above the living room. There I could see whether
it is the joysts that are bowing down or somehow damaged,
or whether the at the bottom of the joyst there's
a gap between the joist and the drywall. The best
case scenario for you is that the drywall has let
(08:50):
go and is delaminated, because it can a either be
pushed up and put new screws in it. If it's
in decent condition, it can be re adhered and then
just a little drywall finishing and paint, or be a
worst case scenario, it's the drywall sagging. The section can
be removed and a new drywall sheet can be put
(09:11):
up and then finished across, and you're good to go
if the bones are straight. If the joyst is sagging,
it's not the end of the world either. It just
means that we may have to open up a slot
in the ceiling and replace a joystore two and resolve
that problem. So either way, the house is not falling down.
But I do want you to address it soon, because
(09:34):
I don't want anybody in the family room when the
drywall collapses down on them and you know, bops them
on the head. It's not hundreds of pounds or anything,
but it'll scare the Bejesus out of whoever it happens to.
And a bunch of insulation and yuck is gonna come
down into the living room and mess up your stuff.
And so I don't want that to happen. I want
you to get somebody out there asap to diagnose what's
(09:58):
going on. Either to again to use the body metaphor,
and then I got to go here, Fred, either the
bone is gone crooked and needs to be reset or
the skin is sagging off the bone. I know that
sounds gross. I'm just realizing I'm saying it sounds weird
real quick.
Speaker 2 (10:17):
I have a lot of that pink.
Speaker 1 (10:21):
Very old.
Speaker 2 (10:22):
Uh, the heat protection on the and I don't know
if he has any fatal sent or that is a
safe to for somebody to go inside the attic insulation
that it's pink insulation, very old and trumble.
Speaker 1 (10:39):
Yeah, it's not, it's not at The insulation is not asbestos.
The insulation is not asbestos. Uh. The there may be
some asbestos duct work up there that can be avoided.
They put a respirator on, they'll go up there and
stay away from it. But the insulation itself. Uh is
is not asbestos, So no either way, Either way, Fred,
(11:02):
somebody's got to get up in the attic and see
it from the top side down and they'll be able
to figure it out. At that point, either the joists
are bowing down or the dry wall is letting loose,
and you got to get eyes on Okay, don't let
it go any further, get it addressed now, and then
if necessary, get two or three opinions about it from
(11:24):
different contractors. But an honest contractor up in the attic
will give you, you know, they'll take some photos, they'll show
you what's going on and help you get through it,
and it won't be as bad as you think, I promise, Fred.
Thank you for calling my friend, and good luck on that.
But yeah, get eyes on that as soon as possible.
All right, more of your calls when we return your
(11:45):
home with Dean Sharp the house Whisper, Kaypie, Dean Sharp
the house Whisper at your service. We're running a little
late in our scheduling right now, so I'm going to
take a quick call. I'm going to go back to
the news and get ourselves all aligned again, and I
want to talk to Jack Hey, Jack, welcome home, Jack.
(12:07):
Are you with me? Hello? Jack? Okay, maybe Jack is
not there. Let's talk to Rick. Hey, Rick, welcome home, Hidane.
Speaker 3 (12:20):
Hey, Hey, we have a concrete patio that wraps all
the way around the house down to the front steps
to the street. The previous owner had painted it with
some kind of patio paint, and it looks like there's
probably a couple of coats on there. It's peeling, there's
some cracks in the con create, etc. So we had
(12:43):
a company come out and the recommendation was to grind
it all off with a sealer on it, put another
color coat again, probably like some kind of a paint
or coating, and then they put another layer on top
of that as a And they're recommending that this is
probably our best choice of trying to redress this concrete.
(13:08):
We don't want to tear it out. It's a lot
of surface area. We don't want to paint over it again.
And so I'm just wondering what kind of options would
I have or is this the best selection.
Speaker 1 (13:21):
Well, I don't know if it's the best choice. Painting
concrete is something I always avoid, Rick, I just I
just try and avoid it because concrete has a lot
of moisture in it. And the problem with painting concrete,
it's not the quality of the paint, it's not the
it's not the weather bearing down on it. It's the
(13:43):
moisture inside the concrete. The reason it cracks and flakes
and bubbles and pops off is because concrete is a
porous stone. It's a synthetic porous stone, and it's got
moisture build up inside it. And outside patio concrete, walkway concrete,
it is virtually impossible to keep moisture from getting up
(14:06):
inside the concrete. It's just the nature of the beast.
And normally, when we've just got wide open concrete, nobody
notices it because moisture percolates through the concrete. The warmth
of the sun evaporates it off the surface, and you know,
it's just concrete, it's our patio. But when we put
a finished surface on it, when we coat over it,
(14:29):
then we're basically putting a membrane there. And water that
is now inside the concrete still wants to get out
and it will push its way out, and it's what
we call hydrostatic pressure from underneath, and that's what causes
the cracking, the peeling, the flaking, all of that kind
of stuff I have yet, I'm just gonna be perfectly honest,
(14:53):
And there are some really good concrete coating companies out there,
but I have yet to see a paint job on
a on a piece of exterior concrete just last forever.
I just it's it is just going to peel, crack
and bubble again. Now, maybe not in two years, maybe
(15:15):
not in five years. Maybe it'll be ten years down
the line. And based on the cost and all of that,
you you think maybe that's the best move for you.
You'd have to decide that. But but anyway, that's so,
that's that's the setup for what I'm about to say, Uh,
what I'm.
Speaker 3 (15:31):
About I'm sorry, but the are two other options that
would present it to us. One was just grind it
down and expose the aggregate and put a sailor on it.
That was one.
Speaker 1 (15:42):
Yeah. So so Rick, here's the thing. Here's the thing, Rick,
I'm sorry, I'm gonna cut you off real quick just
because I've got to get I got to get our
timing back a lined here. So we're gonna take a
quick break. I'm gonna pop you on hold and Yeah,
we're gonna address all of the options. So that's what
I'm getting to I just wanted to address I wanted
to speak to the problem first. The problem is moisture
(16:02):
in the cement. Now the question of how to resolve it,
we'll talk about that right on the other side. So
many people have this problem. This is such an important question. Rick,
you hang tight and will deal with it. You're listening
to Home with Dean Sharp on demand from KFI AM
six forty KFI Jean Sharp, the house whisper. We are
(16:29):
taking calls this morning, and one of my favorite things,
maybe my favorite thing of all time to do with
you here on the radio is just talk to you
about what's going on with your home. I got Rick
on the line held over from our last segment because
Rick's got some a lot of outdoor concrete that was
painted by somebody else and now the paint's cracking and
(16:51):
peeling and doing its thing. And it's such a common problem,
So many people have this situation that I wanted to
take a lot extra time and just deal with it
so that we can all benefit from it. So you're
still with me, Rick, Yes, I am, okay. So here's
the thing. We've talked about moisture inside the concrete. That
(17:13):
is the enemy. That is the enemy.
Speaker 4 (17:15):
Uh.
Speaker 1 (17:15):
But it's just a it's an unavoidable state. And so
that's why painted concrete exterior surfaces are never never my
my preference ever because because no matter how good the
initial bond is, water, you know, I mean, I'm headed
to the Grand Canyon in a couple three weeks with
(17:36):
some friends just to take a peek for a couple
of days. And you know what, You look at something
like that and you're like, water did that? Yeah, yeah,
did Uh. Water has its way with us. It's just
water is in charge of the planet. So uh so
that's the thing. So here is here's your situation.
Speaker 3 (17:52):
Rick.
Speaker 1 (17:53):
First of all, the first move is, without question, non debate.
The first move is we've got to get the stuff
that's on there off completely. So the advice that you
were given about grinding off the existing paint, what however
many layers of coatings and stuff on there, that's the
(18:14):
right move. We've got to get the concrete back to
its raw state. Okay, that is step one. That's and
then then only then will you know what direction to go.
Now I know you said you've got some cracking in
some places. I don't know how severe or bad the
cracking is. But the next part after that would be,
(18:34):
of course, addressing the cracking and filling in the cracks,
whether it's with an epoxy filler or whatever, and then
grind that all smooth. But we got to get back
to raw concrete. And honestly, somebody may have painted that
patio because something got discolored or stained or you know,
rust stains or something, and they themselves may not have
(18:56):
known that they could have resurfaced the concrete and go
past it. And so what you might find. What you
might find is that once you've ground off all this
paint coating, you'll also take a little of the top
of the concrete off as well, and you might find
you're like, look, this concrete doesn't look bad at all.
Let's just let it be. In which case, you just
(19:20):
let it be. Now, of course, you could put a
sealer on it. I don't want to put a top
coat sealer on it, because again, same problem gonna flake off.
Anything that's sitting on the surface will eventually get pushed off.
But a penetrating sealer into the cement to help it
resist stains in the future, that kind of thing no problem.
So you may find that you actually don't have a
(19:43):
problem with the way the patio looks after you've ground
off the old paint and stuff, because you can't assume
that whoever painted it before had no other choice. You can't.
You've got to assume that there's a possibility of homeowneror
ignorant or somebody convinced them that their only option was
(20:04):
to paint, and maybe the concrete just need to be
treated and improved and boom its back. So that's a possibility.
Rick if you find after you've reopened up the concrete
that they are areas you're like, ugh, ugh, it doesn't
look good for whatever reason, then we have to address
(20:26):
the idea of how esthetically to bring it back. And
that basically puts you in three situations. One, you're gonna
cover it with something that isn't a seiler or a paint,
meaning like tile or stone. And yeah, I know, I
know you've got a lot of concrete and that's expensive,
but I have to mention it because it's an option.
(20:47):
I'm not saying that that's a realistic option for you,
but that's an option. Putting concrete. Putting mortar and stone
on top of a concrete patio is a beautiful way
to change it. And it bonds and it holds, and
it will last forever, and it'll be great if it's
done right. In terms of coatings, though inexpensive coatings coatings
(21:09):
don't you know, aren't necessarily inexpensive. They can be very expensive.
Thicker epoxy based coatings are going to last longer. But
you have to like the look and the color and
the texture, and you've got to find a company that's
going to put a serious warranty on it, like that
material is warranted for life to not chip or peel
(21:30):
or crack or bubble. Of course, every one of those
warranties has a lot of fine print about wear and
tear and usage and normal usage and all of that
kind of stuff. But if you've got a company, you
find a company that will stand truly stand behind a
company that's been around a long time, that you expect
to be around a long time and will stand behind
(21:50):
a warranty, then you know you could give it a
serious look. But epoxy coating exterior concrete the way you
think of the way we epoxy coat like garage, slabs.
It's a similar process, but just no outside. It's a
lot more abuse, a lot more moisture in the concrete.
Where I would go if I had the choice, and
(22:12):
I don't always have this choice, but where I would
go if we find that the concrete really needs to
be esthetically improved from its raw state, I would I
opt personally, opt toward darkening the concrete with a stain.
A stain concrete UV resistant stain, not a paint, Because
(22:37):
a stain will colorize the concrete, it will model it some.
It stains the way that concrete absorbs stain does It
doesn't absorb it perfectly uniformly, so again you've got to
find a contractor who's really good at this. It gives
it a modeled look, but that can be a very
very pleasing artistic look, a little variational, a little darker,
(22:59):
little lighter, little little light It can be a very
overall pleasing look. And the advantage of a stain is
it will not peel, it will not crack because it's
absorbed into the concrete material. It will eventually lighten and
need to be recoded. But applying a stain to concrete
is the easiest of all of the other things, and
(23:22):
it will last the longest and it will not structurally
fail on you. So those are essentially your options. First,
grind out the old stuff, see if you like the concrete.
Maybe if you like it, you put a penetrating sealer
and leave it be. Second, if you feel like it
needs an aesthetic approach, call a staining company, have them
(23:44):
look at it first and tell you, Nope, we can't
make this nice. Because if they say, yes, we can
make this nice. I would go that way ninety nine
times out of one hundred, versus a top coating surface,
which I know at some point in the future. Sure
it's going to bubble, crack and peel. It will last
and look beautiful for a while and then it won't.
(24:06):
And and those are the things you have to evaluate.
R Indeant.
Speaker 3 (24:10):
What about I've seen also companies that will put a
top coat of like a self leveling No it's not concrete,
but like a soft concrete like when you level floors.
I've seen that they you know, like apply a level
of concrete on top of the concrete or something like that.
Do you know what I'm talking about?
Speaker 1 (24:29):
Yep. And it's essentially again, it is a very very
precarious scenario. It has to be just the right mix
and just the right conditions with just the right bonding.
Otherwise you have essentially when you apply concrete to concrete,
we get what we call the cold joint, which is
those molecules just don't fuse the way that they would
(24:53):
have fused when they were all wet and curing for
the first time. And I know there are companies that say, listen,
we put this sealer base and it grabs and it bonds. Yeah,
it will for a while. But believe me, nature is
not fooled by the fact that there is a seam
in between those two coatings. And it is all so
(25:16):
likely in the future at some point. Now if they
tell you this is gonna last thirty years and it's
on us if anything happens to it before, all right, fine,
all right, go for it. But you know, the quality
of the product and the confidence in the product is
revealed by the length and the and the uniformity of
(25:36):
the warranty. That's basically what it comes down to. Rick I,
all I can tell you is I fear top coatings
on concrete. I just I do. I fear them because
I have seen so many of them fail, and I've
never wanted to do one for one of our clients
or recommend it for a design client. I always try
(25:58):
and find a way to avoid it because I just
don't want that call. Five years from now, seven years
from now, I just don't want that call. And all
I can express to you is my honest opinion and
my own fear about it. But that's where I'm at Rick.
I thank you for your call. I hope that gives
you some perspective on what's possible with exterior concrete, and
(26:21):
good luck, and please let me know because I do
care about all of that, and it's I know it's
a lot and it's a lot of money. Just know
this the first step, there's no question about it. You
got to strip all the old stuff off and then
evaluate evaluate where your concrete stands from that point. All right,
y'all more calls when we return your home with Dean
(26:41):
Sharp the house whisper, Say Sharp the house whipper. Here
we are at the end of another couple of hours
spent together. It just flies by, doesn't it. All right,
let's try and get one more call in real quick.
Let's talk to Mary. Hey, Mary, welcome home.
Speaker 4 (27:00):
Hi, can you hear?
Speaker 1 (27:02):
Yes? I can. How can I help you?
Speaker 3 (27:04):
Mary?
Speaker 4 (27:06):
Thank you so much for your show. It's so informative
and so fun. I have a question. I have a question.
My water, my toilets, water tanks broke. So the whole
area of the there are two bathrooms next to each
other and not next to each other, across each other,
(27:27):
and then there is a long hallway and then there
is a space in front of the laundry room. So
that whole area got wet, and my mom was the
only one in home, so it took time for us
to take care of it. So then we had to
go through water mitigation and the area is dried out now.
(27:47):
But now I have a questions about how I should
do the repair. The home is laminate and it's a
continuous laminate, So now I'm confused about the options of wood,
lamine a tile, and if I have to do just
affectional tile or if I have to do the whole
area the whole home. So I just want to get
(28:09):
some information about the ocean.
Speaker 1 (28:12):
Okay, So Mary, do you happen to have I don't
know how large of an area got damaged, but do
you happen to have you know, extra laminate planks or
pieces that could replace the damage.
Speaker 4 (28:25):
You don't, and the discontinued the condo is from two
thousand and five.
Speaker 1 (28:34):
Well, you know what, Mary, here's the thing. It comes
down to essentially a design decision at this point. Uh,
you can always stop a laminate floor at a doorway. Uh.
You know, as as you enter into a room, you
can always create a stop in the material and a change.
But you know, out in the middle of a large space, obviously,
(28:56):
that's that can be kind of a weird thing, and
not a lot of people would want to do that.
So if you have a large open area, my suggestion
would be, you know, to you know, to to go
ahead and just use a single material. Whether or not
you could come out of the bathrooms and go down
the hallway and then stop at the end of the
hall and transition, it's really a design decision. What I
(29:18):
would recommend is that you don't, you know, try and
match the material, because you won't quite match it. And
like in so many things in the world of design,
you either hit it right on the head, match it exactly,
or try to miss it by a mile because close
always looks like a mistake. Close but not quite always
looks like a mistake. My heart goes out to you
(29:40):
because you know you've got all these rooms or this
area with the good lamin in it. So that so
the first question is very quickly this and then I
have to go. The first issue is find, you know,
try and figure out if there is a way that
you can change materials so you can limit the amount
of laminate that you have to replace and keep as
much of the old stuff. Or The second thing is
(30:01):
so pull all the lamb in it up and know
that these days the thing that would I would replace
lamin it with without question is luxury vinyl plank, which
is waterproof and won't have to be replaced the next
time a toilet leaks. And it's also very very inexpensive
in the world of flooring materials and so and in
(30:23):
terms of insurance mitigation, make sure the insurance company is
on the hook for everything, because if you can't replace
a continuous floor, they need to understand that the replacement
cost needs to extend and that you don't have to
end up with a patchwork quilt on your floor. So
even if the damage occurred in a hallway, but that
(30:44):
same material runs into four other rooms. Guess what, it's
not on you and now have a different material in
the hallway than the four other rooms. It needs to
be all replaced and changed. And the insurance claim should
be on the hook for that. Mary Uh, thank you,
thank you so much for your call, and best of
luck with that. That's all I've got time for today. Everybody,
(31:06):
come back tomorrow the big show. We're talking kitchen cabinets,
and we're here. We're here for you because we care.
Until then, get out here in this beautiful day and
get busy building yourself a beautiful life, and we'll see
you right back here tomorrow at nine am. This has
been Home with Dean Sharp, the House Whisper. Tune into
(31:27):
the live broadcast on KFI AM six forty every Saturday
morning from six to eight Pacific time and every Sunday
morning from nine to noon Pacific time, or anytime on
demand on the iHeartRadio app.
KFI AM six forty. You're listening to Dean Sharp, the
House Whisper on demand on the iHeart Radio app. KFI
I AM forty Live dreaming me be everywhere on the
iHeart Radio app. Hey, it's Dean Sharp, the House Whisperer.
(00:20):
I am here with you live like I am every
Saturday morning from six to eight Pacific time and Sunday
mornings nine to noon Pacific time. Hey, don't miss tomorrow's
show as well. Three hours we're gonna spend here at
the beginning of remodeling season, talking about kitchen cabinets or
cabinets in general, cabinet tree and I have in studio
(00:43):
with me a very very special guest, John Cordero of
The Kitchen Store, my favorite kitchen cabinet design studio in
all of southern California. And John a master expert on cabinets,
a master cabinet maker himself. And so literally we are
going to he and I be talking to you about
(01:05):
all things cabinets, the things that have changed, the things
you should be looking for, the things you need to
understand about cabinets. It's just going to be a fantastic show.
Don't miss it. That's tomorrow from nine to noon Pacific time,
or catch us on the podcast, which, of course you know,
every one of our episodes becomes the House Whisper Podcast
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(01:47):
just search for the House Whisper or Home with Dean.
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lot of good stuff, all right. Also, let me tell
you if your home is in need of more personal
(02:08):
house Whisperer attention, you're thinking, wow, it would be nice
to just have Dean and Tina sitting in our living
room as we discuss that thing over there with them
and have them solve it for us. You can do that.
You can book an in home design consult with us,
even if you don't live in southern California. We have ways,
We have our ways. You can book an in home
(02:30):
design consult with me and the tea. Just go to
house Whisperer dot Design House Whisperer dot Design. All right,
back to the phones, because we're taking calls this morning.
It's my favorite thing to do of all things, that
just talking to you about what's going on with your home.
I've got Fred on the line. Hopefully I did not
(02:52):
hang up on Fred. Fred, you're still with me, yes,
I am okay. So Fred's got a ranch style home,
single story rand style home, and in his living room,
family room area, the ceiling is sagging and he's concerned,
and you should be concerned because that's not normal. But
I want to try and get to the bottom of
(03:13):
it for you. Yeah, you haven't had anybody go up
into the attic to look, and so I'm just going
to start off by saying Fred that we got to
do that. We got to get up there and see
because there's a couple of different things that can be
happening when a ceiling is sagging and on a single
story ranch style home and your home was built in
the nineteen fifties, so it's an older home on a
(03:37):
single story ranch style home. I will help you in
this sense that even if it's what we call and
I'm using my air quotes here, a structural problem, it
is not an end of the world, you know, oh
my gosh, my house is going to fall down structural problem.
(03:58):
What it is is one of two things. The way
a home is built, the way homes were built in
nineteen fifties and still most homes today, is the ceiling.
What makes up the ceiling is first and foremost in
the framing of your home what we call ceiling joists,
and those are larger pieces of wood that are running
(04:21):
all the way across from one side of the room
to the other, and they're sitting next to each other
with spaces in between. They're sitting sixteen inches on center.
They're sitting thirteen and three eight inches apart from each other. Okay,
you made me get technicality. Every sixteen inches there is
a ceiling joist. Now, I don't know the size of
(04:42):
the ceiling joists for your home because they vary from
home to home and track to tract, and depending on
the overall span, you say you've got about three hundred
square feet. That's a nice sized room. So it's a
good span that they're making across there. It wouldn't surprise me.
I mean, they have to be at least two by
six ceiling joye. Unless they're part of a trust system,
(05:06):
that's a whole nother kind of magilla. I doubt it, though,
if there's a structural sag chances are in nineteen fifty seven.
Speaker 2 (05:15):
A clue they call the Crashman home. I don't know
that helps you on that.
Speaker 1 (05:21):
A craftsman home.
Speaker 2 (05:23):
That's what they call it. At least, yeah, that's what
my neighbors told They call it Cushman home.
Speaker 1 (05:28):
Yeah, it doesn't help a whole lot. It doesn't help
a whole lot because that's a style. That's an architectural style.
It doesn't really refer to what's you know, what's being
built in the bones. But the point is this, you've
got these ceiling joys going across your ceiling that they're
making the span they are the real ceiling and then
(05:50):
screwed or nailed to the bottom. And in the nineteen
fifties it is going to be nailed to the bottom
of that those ceiling joys is going to be a
layer of drywall. That's the wall. The ceiling that you
look at all the time is the drywall. The drywall
is five eighths of an inch thick, and its big sheets,
big four by eight sheets that run across. So when
we see a sag, a sag that concerns us, when
(06:13):
our ceiling is bowing down, it's one of two things,
almost always one. The dry wall has let loose, has
detached itself, or a portion of it has detached itself
from the bottom of those actual wood ceiling joists. The
ceiling joists may be still sitting there straight as an arrow,
(06:36):
strong as ever, but because of water damage leaky roof,
water and drywall don't mix well. They get mutty. The
drywall gets mushy, and then it lets go of its
grip on the nails that have nailed it into the ceiling.
Or just time age a few earthquakes. Who knows. It's
(06:58):
hard to tell exactly what the reasons are, but sometimes
dry wall ceilings let go of some of the joists
that they are supposed to be held tight against, and
as a result, the ceiling starts to bow down. Now
is that a threat structural? Technically, it's not a structural
threat because the structure is intact. Kind of the essence
(07:21):
is that the skin is sagging but the bone is straight. Okay,
The more serious thing would be if that sag that
is happening is because the bone has sagged, meaning the
I'm using my body metaphor here, but meaning that the
wood joists themselves are deflecting down or sagging down. That
(07:44):
could happen because a wood joye has a kind of
intrinsic crack into in it that it eventually gave way,
or the wood joist naturally sometimes wants to bow with
age and it bows in the direction we don't want
it to bow in, or something impacted it and it broke.
But here is the thing, my friend Fred, we have
(08:06):
got to get these are these are This is just
me telling you what the the most likely possible causes are.
And what we need to do is we got to
get eyes on. We've got to get somebody, a qualified
contractor up into your attic space to take a look
at what's happening. And it'll be easy to see when
(08:27):
somebody who knows what they're looking for is in the
attic space. If I was to crawl into your attic
space above the living room. There I could see whether
it is the joysts that are bowing down or somehow damaged,
or whether the at the bottom of the joyst there's
a gap between the joist and the drywall. The best
case scenario for you is that the drywall has let
(08:50):
go and is delaminated, because it can a either be
pushed up and put new screws in it. If it's
in decent condition, it can be re adhered and then
just a little drywall finishing and paint, or be a
worst case scenario, it's the drywall sagging. The section can
be removed and a new drywall sheet can be put
(09:11):
up and then finished across, and you're good to go
if the bones are straight. If the joyst is sagging,
it's not the end of the world either. It just
means that we may have to open up a slot
in the ceiling and replace a joystore two and resolve
that problem. So either way, the house is not falling down.
But I do want you to address it soon, because
(09:34):
I don't want anybody in the family room when the
drywall collapses down on them and you know, bops them
on the head. It's not hundreds of pounds or anything,
but it'll scare the Bejesus out of whoever it happens to.
And a bunch of insulation and yuck is gonna come
down into the living room and mess up your stuff.
And so I don't want that to happen. I want
you to get somebody out there asap to diagnose what's
(09:58):
going on. Either to again to use the body metaphor,
and then I got to go here, Fred, either the
bone is gone crooked and needs to be reset or
the skin is sagging off the bone. I know that
sounds gross. I'm just realizing I'm saying it sounds weird
real quick.
Speaker 2 (10:17):
I have a lot of that pink.
Speaker 1 (10:21):
Very old.
Speaker 2 (10:22):
Uh, the heat protection on the and I don't know
if he has any fatal sent or that is a
safe to for somebody to go inside the attic insulation
that it's pink insulation, very old and trumble.
Speaker 1 (10:39):
Yeah, it's not, it's not at The insulation is not asbestos.
The insulation is not asbestos. Uh. The there may be
some asbestos duct work up there that can be avoided.
They put a respirator on, they'll go up there and
stay away from it. But the insulation itself. Uh is
is not asbestos, So no either way, Either way, Fred,
(11:02):
somebody's got to get up in the attic and see
it from the top side down and they'll be able
to figure it out. At that point, either the joists
are bowing down or the dry wall is letting loose,
and you got to get eyes on Okay, don't let
it go any further, get it addressed now, and then
if necessary, get two or three opinions about it from
(11:24):
different contractors. But an honest contractor up in the attic
will give you, you know, they'll take some photos, they'll show
you what's going on and help you get through it,
and it won't be as bad as you think, I promise, Fred.
Thank you for calling my friend, and good luck on that.
But yeah, get eyes on that as soon as possible.
All right, more of your calls when we return your
(11:45):
home with Dean Sharp the house Whisper, Kaypie, Dean Sharp
the house Whisper at your service. We're running a little
late in our scheduling right now, so I'm going to
take a quick call. I'm going to go back to
the news and get ourselves all aligned again, and I
want to talk to Jack Hey, Jack, welcome home, Jack.
(12:07):
Are you with me? Hello? Jack? Okay, maybe Jack is
not there. Let's talk to Rick. Hey, Rick, welcome home, Hidane.
Speaker 3 (12:20):
Hey, Hey, we have a concrete patio that wraps all
the way around the house down to the front steps
to the street. The previous owner had painted it with
some kind of patio paint, and it looks like there's
probably a couple of coats on there. It's peeling, there's
some cracks in the con create, etc. So we had
(12:43):
a company come out and the recommendation was to grind
it all off with a sealer on it, put another
color coat again, probably like some kind of a paint
or coating, and then they put another layer on top
of that as a And they're recommending that this is
probably our best choice of trying to redress this concrete.
(13:08):
We don't want to tear it out. It's a lot
of surface area. We don't want to paint over it again.
And so I'm just wondering what kind of options would
I have or is this the best selection.
Speaker 1 (13:21):
Well, I don't know if it's the best choice. Painting
concrete is something I always avoid, Rick, I just I
just try and avoid it because concrete has a lot
of moisture in it. And the problem with painting concrete,
it's not the quality of the paint, it's not the
it's not the weather bearing down on it. It's the
(13:43):
moisture inside the concrete. The reason it cracks and flakes
and bubbles and pops off is because concrete is a
porous stone. It's a synthetic porous stone, and it's got
moisture build up inside it. And outside patio concrete, walkway concrete,
it is virtually impossible to keep moisture from getting up
(14:06):
inside the concrete. It's just the nature of the beast.
And normally, when we've just got wide open concrete, nobody
notices it because moisture percolates through the concrete. The warmth
of the sun evaporates it off the surface, and you know,
it's just concrete, it's our patio. But when we put
a finished surface on it, when we coat over it,
(14:29):
then we're basically putting a membrane there. And water that
is now inside the concrete still wants to get out
and it will push its way out, and it's what
we call hydrostatic pressure from underneath, and that's what causes
the cracking, the peeling, the flaking, all of that kind
of stuff I have yet, I'm just gonna be perfectly honest,
(14:53):
And there are some really good concrete coating companies out there,
but I have yet to see a paint job on
a on a piece of exterior concrete just last forever.
I just it's it is just going to peel, crack
and bubble again. Now, maybe not in two years, maybe
(15:15):
not in five years. Maybe it'll be ten years down
the line. And based on the cost and all of that,
you you think maybe that's the best move for you.
You'd have to decide that. But but anyway, that's so,
that's that's the setup for what I'm about to say, Uh,
what I'm.
Speaker 3 (15:31):
About I'm sorry, but the are two other options that
would present it to us. One was just grind it
down and expose the aggregate and put a sailor on it.
That was one.
Speaker 1 (15:42):
Yeah. So so Rick, here's the thing. Here's the thing, Rick,
I'm sorry, I'm gonna cut you off real quick just
because I've got to get I got to get our
timing back a lined here. So we're gonna take a
quick break. I'm gonna pop you on hold and Yeah,
we're gonna address all of the options. So that's what
I'm getting to I just wanted to address I wanted
to speak to the problem first. The problem is moisture
(16:02):
in the cement. Now the question of how to resolve it,
we'll talk about that right on the other side. So
many people have this problem. This is such an important question. Rick,
you hang tight and will deal with it. You're listening
to Home with Dean Sharp on demand from KFI AM
six forty KFI Jean Sharp, the house whisper. We are
(16:29):
taking calls this morning, and one of my favorite things,
maybe my favorite thing of all time to do with
you here on the radio is just talk to you
about what's going on with your home. I got Rick
on the line held over from our last segment because
Rick's got some a lot of outdoor concrete that was
painted by somebody else and now the paint's cracking and
(16:51):
peeling and doing its thing. And it's such a common problem,
So many people have this situation that I wanted to
take a lot extra time and just deal with it
so that we can all benefit from it. So you're
still with me, Rick, Yes, I am, okay. So here's
the thing. We've talked about moisture inside the concrete. That
(17:13):
is the enemy. That is the enemy.
Speaker 4 (17:15):
Uh.
Speaker 1 (17:15):
But it's just a it's an unavoidable state. And so
that's why painted concrete exterior surfaces are never never my
my preference ever because because no matter how good the
initial bond is, water, you know, I mean, I'm headed
to the Grand Canyon in a couple three weeks with
(17:36):
some friends just to take a peek for a couple
of days. And you know what, You look at something
like that and you're like, water did that? Yeah, yeah,
did Uh. Water has its way with us. It's just
water is in charge of the planet. So uh so
that's the thing. So here is here's your situation.
Speaker 3 (17:52):
Rick.
Speaker 1 (17:53):
First of all, the first move is, without question, non debate.
The first move is we've got to get the stuff
that's on there off completely. So the advice that you
were given about grinding off the existing paint, what however
many layers of coatings and stuff on there, that's the
(18:14):
right move. We've got to get the concrete back to
its raw state. Okay, that is step one. That's and
then then only then will you know what direction to go.
Now I know you said you've got some cracking in
some places. I don't know how severe or bad the
cracking is. But the next part after that would be,
(18:34):
of course, addressing the cracking and filling in the cracks,
whether it's with an epoxy filler or whatever, and then
grind that all smooth. But we got to get back
to raw concrete. And honestly, somebody may have painted that
patio because something got discolored or stained or you know,
rust stains or something, and they themselves may not have
(18:56):
known that they could have resurfaced the concrete and go
past it. And so what you might find. What you
might find is that once you've ground off all this
paint coating, you'll also take a little of the top
of the concrete off as well, and you might find
you're like, look, this concrete doesn't look bad at all.
Let's just let it be. In which case, you just
(19:20):
let it be. Now, of course, you could put a
sealer on it. I don't want to put a top
coat sealer on it, because again, same problem gonna flake off.
Anything that's sitting on the surface will eventually get pushed off.
But a penetrating sealer into the cement to help it
resist stains in the future, that kind of thing no problem.
So you may find that you actually don't have a
(19:43):
problem with the way the patio looks after you've ground
off the old paint and stuff, because you can't assume
that whoever painted it before had no other choice. You can't.
You've got to assume that there's a possibility of homeowneror
ignorant or somebody convinced them that their only option was
(20:04):
to paint, and maybe the concrete just need to be
treated and improved and boom its back. So that's a possibility.
Rick if you find after you've reopened up the concrete
that they are areas you're like, ugh, ugh, it doesn't
look good for whatever reason, then we have to address
(20:26):
the idea of how esthetically to bring it back. And
that basically puts you in three situations. One, you're gonna
cover it with something that isn't a seiler or a paint,
meaning like tile or stone. And yeah, I know, I
know you've got a lot of concrete and that's expensive,
but I have to mention it because it's an option.
(20:47):
I'm not saying that that's a realistic option for you,
but that's an option. Putting concrete. Putting mortar and stone
on top of a concrete patio is a beautiful way
to change it. And it bonds and it holds, and
it will last forever, and it'll be great if it's
done right. In terms of coatings, though inexpensive coatings coatings
(21:09):
don't you know, aren't necessarily inexpensive. They can be very expensive.
Thicker epoxy based coatings are going to last longer. But
you have to like the look and the color and
the texture, and you've got to find a company that's
going to put a serious warranty on it, like that
material is warranted for life to not chip or peel
(21:30):
or crack or bubble. Of course, every one of those
warranties has a lot of fine print about wear and
tear and usage and normal usage and all of that
kind of stuff. But if you've got a company, you
find a company that will stand truly stand behind a
company that's been around a long time, that you expect
to be around a long time and will stand behind
(21:50):
a warranty, then you know you could give it a
serious look. But epoxy coating exterior concrete the way you
think of the way we epoxy coat like garage, slabs.
It's a similar process, but just no outside. It's a
lot more abuse, a lot more moisture in the concrete.
Where I would go if I had the choice, and
(22:12):
I don't always have this choice, but where I would
go if we find that the concrete really needs to
be esthetically improved from its raw state, I would I
opt personally, opt toward darkening the concrete with a stain.
A stain concrete UV resistant stain, not a paint, Because
(22:37):
a stain will colorize the concrete, it will model it some.
It stains the way that concrete absorbs stain does It
doesn't absorb it perfectly uniformly, so again you've got to
find a contractor who's really good at this. It gives
it a modeled look, but that can be a very
very pleasing artistic look, a little variational, a little darker,
(22:59):
little lighter, little little light It can be a very
overall pleasing look. And the advantage of a stain is
it will not peel, it will not crack because it's
absorbed into the concrete material. It will eventually lighten and
need to be recoded. But applying a stain to concrete
is the easiest of all of the other things, and
(23:22):
it will last the longest and it will not structurally
fail on you. So those are essentially your options. First,
grind out the old stuff, see if you like the concrete.
Maybe if you like it, you put a penetrating sealer
and leave it be. Second, if you feel like it
needs an aesthetic approach, call a staining company, have them
(23:44):
look at it first and tell you, Nope, we can't
make this nice. Because if they say, yes, we can
make this nice. I would go that way ninety nine
times out of one hundred, versus a top coating surface,
which I know at some point in the future. Sure
it's going to bubble, crack and peel. It will last
and look beautiful for a while and then it won't.
(24:06):
And and those are the things you have to evaluate.
R Indeant.
Speaker 3 (24:10):
What about I've seen also companies that will put a
top coat of like a self leveling No it's not concrete,
but like a soft concrete like when you level floors.
I've seen that they you know, like apply a level
of concrete on top of the concrete or something like that.
Do you know what I'm talking about?
Speaker 1 (24:29):
Yep. And it's essentially again, it is a very very
precarious scenario. It has to be just the right mix
and just the right conditions with just the right bonding.
Otherwise you have essentially when you apply concrete to concrete,
we get what we call the cold joint, which is
those molecules just don't fuse the way that they would
(24:53):
have fused when they were all wet and curing for
the first time. And I know there are companies that say, listen,
we put this sealer base and it grabs and it bonds. Yeah,
it will for a while. But believe me, nature is
not fooled by the fact that there is a seam
in between those two coatings. And it is all so
(25:16):
likely in the future at some point. Now if they
tell you this is gonna last thirty years and it's
on us if anything happens to it before, all right, fine,
all right, go for it. But you know, the quality
of the product and the confidence in the product is
revealed by the length and the and the uniformity of
(25:36):
the warranty. That's basically what it comes down to. Rick I,
all I can tell you is I fear top coatings
on concrete. I just I do. I fear them because
I have seen so many of them fail, and I've
never wanted to do one for one of our clients
or recommend it for a design client. I always try
(25:58):
and find a way to avoid it because I just
don't want that call. Five years from now, seven years
from now, I just don't want that call. And all
I can express to you is my honest opinion and
my own fear about it. But that's where I'm at Rick.
I thank you for your call. I hope that gives
you some perspective on what's possible with exterior concrete, and
(26:21):
good luck, and please let me know because I do
care about all of that, and it's I know it's
a lot and it's a lot of money. Just know
this the first step, there's no question about it. You
got to strip all the old stuff off and then
evaluate evaluate where your concrete stands from that point. All right,
y'all more calls when we return your home with Dean
(26:41):
Sharp the house whisper, Say Sharp the house whipper. Here
we are at the end of another couple of hours
spent together. It just flies by, doesn't it. All right,
let's try and get one more call in real quick.
Let's talk to Mary. Hey, Mary, welcome home.
Speaker 4 (27:00):
Hi, can you hear?
Speaker 1 (27:02):
Yes? I can. How can I help you?
Speaker 3 (27:04):
Mary?
Speaker 4 (27:06):
Thank you so much for your show. It's so informative
and so fun. I have a question. I have a question.
My water, my toilets, water tanks broke. So the whole
area of the there are two bathrooms next to each
other and not next to each other, across each other,
(27:27):
and then there is a long hallway and then there
is a space in front of the laundry room. So
that whole area got wet, and my mom was the
only one in home, so it took time for us
to take care of it. So then we had to
go through water mitigation and the area is dried out now.
(27:47):
But now I have a questions about how I should
do the repair. The home is laminate and it's a
continuous laminate, So now I'm confused about the options of wood,
lamine a tile, and if I have to do just
affectional tile or if I have to do the whole
area the whole home. So I just want to get
(28:09):
some information about the ocean.
Speaker 1 (28:12):
Okay, So Mary, do you happen to have I don't
know how large of an area got damaged, but do
you happen to have you know, extra laminate planks or
pieces that could replace the damage.
Speaker 4 (28:25):
You don't, and the discontinued the condo is from two
thousand and five.
Speaker 1 (28:34):
Well, you know what, Mary, here's the thing. It comes
down to essentially a design decision at this point. Uh,
you can always stop a laminate floor at a doorway. Uh.
You know, as as you enter into a room, you
can always create a stop in the material and a change.
But you know, out in the middle of a large space, obviously,
(28:56):
that's that can be kind of a weird thing, and
not a lot of people would want to do that.
So if you have a large open area, my suggestion
would be, you know, to you know, to to go
ahead and just use a single material. Whether or not
you could come out of the bathrooms and go down
the hallway and then stop at the end of the
hall and transition, it's really a design decision. What I
(29:18):
would recommend is that you don't, you know, try and
match the material, because you won't quite match it. And
like in so many things in the world of design,
you either hit it right on the head, match it exactly,
or try to miss it by a mile because close
always looks like a mistake. Close but not quite always
looks like a mistake. My heart goes out to you
(29:40):
because you know you've got all these rooms or this
area with the good lamin in it. So that so
the first question is very quickly this and then I
have to go. The first issue is find, you know,
try and figure out if there is a way that
you can change materials so you can limit the amount
of laminate that you have to replace and keep as
much of the old stuff. Or The second thing is
(30:01):
so pull all the lamb in it up and know
that these days the thing that would I would replace
lamin it with without question is luxury vinyl plank, which
is waterproof and won't have to be replaced the next
time a toilet leaks. And it's also very very inexpensive
in the world of flooring materials and so and in
(30:23):
terms of insurance mitigation, make sure the insurance company is
on the hook for everything, because if you can't replace
a continuous floor, they need to understand that the replacement
cost needs to extend and that you don't have to
end up with a patchwork quilt on your floor. So
even if the damage occurred in a hallway, but that
(30:44):
same material runs into four other rooms. Guess what, it's
not on you and now have a different material in
the hallway than the four other rooms. It needs to
be all replaced and changed. And the insurance claim should
be on the hook for that. Mary Uh, thank you,
thank you so much for your call, and best of
luck with that. That's all I've got time for today. Everybody,
(31:06):
come back tomorrow the big show. We're talking kitchen cabinets,
and we're here. We're here for you because we care.
Until then, get out here in this beautiful day and
get busy building yourself a beautiful life, and we'll see
you right back here tomorrow at nine am. This has
been Home with Dean Sharp, the House Whisper. Tune into
(31:27):
the live broadcast on KFI AM six forty every Saturday
morning from six to eight Pacific time and every Sunday
morning from nine to noon Pacific time, or anytime on
demand on the iHeartRadio app.
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