Episode Transcript
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Speaker 1 (00:10):
You're listening to a MoMA Mia podcast.
Speaker 2 (00:13):
Mama Mia acknowledges the traditional owners of land and waters
that this podcast is recorded on Hey you bes Lee
here and here's another wonderful episode of Nothing to Wear.
I think it's one of my favorites. It's with Lucinda
Piquette and it's about what makes a brand quote unquote cool.
Lucinda has the most incredible insights from working inside the industry,
(00:34):
so we discuss what makes a brand cool, what makes
a brand mass, why the resurgence of Y two K
fashion and brands like New Balance. It's just a really
interesting chat about what happens behind the scenes to make
sure we see things and want to buy them. Whoever
said orange is a new pink with seriously.
Speaker 3 (00:54):
Disturbed laurels for spraying groundbreaking?
Speaker 1 (00:57):
Oh my god, you have to do it.
Speaker 3 (00:59):
You live for fashion.
Speaker 2 (01:02):
Hello and welcome to Nothing to Wear, the podcast that
solves fashion problems and levels up your wardrobe. I'm Lee Campbell,
and every week I chat to an expert who helps
us work out how to get more out of the
clothes we already own and tells us exactly what is
and isn't worth adding to our wardrobes. If you've ever
scrolled through TikTok and found yourself nodding along to someone
(01:22):
brilliantly dissecting why your favorite nostalgic brands like Bettineliano, Subi
and Sassenbide have either thrived or died, that's probably Lucinda Piquat.
She has over fifteen years experience in pr and trend forecasting.
And Lucinda doesn't just know fashion. She understands the exact
DNA of what makes a brand quote unquote cool. So
(01:46):
rather than gatekeeping that knowledge, she has built a following
of ninety thousand people over there, offering brands completely free
pr advice that most companies would pay thousands for. And
she doesn't just talk about clothes. She unpacks culture, identity, motherhood, reinvention,
and what it means to stay relevant in this faster
than ever before world.
Speaker 1 (02:07):
Her content is.
Speaker 2 (02:08):
Part fashion history lesson, part strategic masterclass, and occasionally a
brutally honest reality check for labels who might have lost
their way. But she delivers it all with the kind
of insider perspective that makes you feel like you're getting
the gossip over coffee with the smartest person in.
Speaker 1 (02:23):
The fashion industry.
Speaker 2 (02:24):
So all that said, today we're diving into everything from
the resurrection of y UK Australian labels and what makes
today's brands actually connect with customers, and why some of
our favorite fashion memories might be left in the past.
She truly is a wealth of knowledge. Listen to Welcome
to the show. I'm very excited to talk to someone
so cool about this topic.
Speaker 3 (02:44):
I don't know about that way.
Speaker 2 (02:46):
But first, there's two questions I ask every new guest,
and the first one is can you describe your style
in three words?
Speaker 4 (02:53):
So I love this question and I've gone with country
club sheek. I love the old money trend, but I
just despise the name of it. It's sort of like
we're cousplaying into this social class or like social system.
So anyways, I love the old money vibe, which I'm
trying to emulate, but it's sort of country clubs and
extension of that and a bit.
Speaker 3 (03:13):
More of like a sport infused look.
Speaker 4 (03:15):
So I've got the baseball cap, the sumbers on, and
I find this is how I generally dress all the time.
Speaker 2 (03:20):
You look comfortable, but like you I have maybe dropped
the kids off, and then you're going to go have
a spot of brunch before tennis or something.
Speaker 3 (03:30):
But like, because that's what I'm always doing. I'm always
attending country bus, right we all do.
Speaker 2 (03:35):
I really like that, And that is the most unique
three words someone has ever brought.
Speaker 4 (03:39):
Admittedly, I do live in the country, so maybe it's
like a little bit gooded, but it is comfy. I
am literally doing that dropping the kids off. I can
get around in this, So yeah, that's what I try
and do country club cheeks.
Speaker 1 (03:49):
Now, the theory that we think is pretty spot on.
For most people.
Speaker 2 (03:52):
We've got a wardrobe of clothes, but there's ten percent
of those items, you know, also my mishoes and accessories
that we reach for more than the other stuff. So
what's in your ten percent?
Speaker 4 (04:01):
This is so true and I'm quite conscious of this.
So at the beginning of each week, I'd be like, Okay,
I'm going to just wear shorts this week if weather
permits it, and bring out like the Mimina shorts, or
this week I'm in pants, since why I'm in these pants?
Speaker 1 (04:14):
Waitit you plan this at the start of the week.
Speaker 4 (04:17):
I just in your head, in my head because I've
heard this theory that we only wear ten percent. So
I just want to try and wear everything if possible.
So if not, though, because obviously it's not always like
that we rush out the door. It is always jeans,
any type of jeans, any color or cut, and a cap.
I'm always in a baseball cap, even in here, walking
in today, I had a baseball cap on.
Speaker 1 (04:37):
You make it look so cool. I look like Jerry
Side filmed.
Speaker 4 (04:41):
I kind of like looking like Jerry Siper. That was
going to be one of my things ninety sitcom.
Speaker 3 (04:45):
I kind of like that.
Speaker 4 (04:46):
Yeah, okay, But I love the rule as well, where
if you've got two out of the three things put
together is how you look put together. So outfit, makeup,
hair always sort of a considered outfit.
Speaker 3 (04:58):
Makeup.
Speaker 4 (04:59):
I love makeup, and then the hair's always fall short,
so I whack on a cap if it's greasy'll wet
or whatever.
Speaker 1 (05:05):
That's so clever.
Speaker 2 (05:06):
Yeah, I worked out. That's where I sometimes fall down.
If I'm doing like a ma ching set or something,
but I haven't done my hair and makeup, I look
like I'm in my pajamas. But if I do my
hair and makeup properly in weather, I shoes and a
matching set looks great. Yeah, But once I picked up
my son from school and goes, mummy, we aren't your pajamas,
I was like, oh rude. Now today, this is such
an interesting topic and I'm really excited to get your
thoughts because we're going to dissect what makes a fashion
(05:28):
brand quote unquote cool. So let's start by defining what
cool means. It can mean different things to different people.
What makes a brand cool to you? Is it they're marketing,
is it the zeitgeist? Is it because they're underground? Like
what do you think if you can kind of sum
it up, that means.
Speaker 4 (05:48):
I think back in the day, so like eighties, nineties
or before social media, so Instagram was twenty ten era
and before online, a cool brand was interpreted as a
subculture or a subset of people, right, and if they'd
create a brand, so you had your grungy your serf
culture really popped off in the nineties in Australia, that
(06:10):
sort of gritty underground where there was like a if
you know, you know essence to it is what made
something cool, and you couldn't manufacture if you weren't part
of that group.
Speaker 2 (06:19):
And it was more sort of word of mouth you know,
which I guess social media is now too well sort of,
but you're right.
Speaker 1 (06:25):
You couldn't just find it out. You couldn't reverse Google image,
and that's what made it kind of cool because it
was elusive.
Speaker 3 (06:30):
That's exactly right.
Speaker 4 (06:31):
So I think nowadays, if you could sort of define it,
it's easy to become cool online. I guess because you've
got more exposure, you're keeping up the trends, so you
can kind of tap into different areas of culture. But
it's trying to emulate that if you know, you know,
element of mystery around your brand and almost straddling like
commercial mainstream and that early adopters, so balancing that strike
(06:57):
just in between before getting too commercialized.
Speaker 2 (07:00):
That is so true, and it's interesting because I mean,
I asked you for three words.
Speaker 1 (07:03):
No one has ever said cool.
Speaker 2 (07:05):
I don't want to look cool, but when I like
a brand or an item, in my head, I'm like, oh,
I like that, that's cool.
Speaker 1 (07:13):
But everyone has a different version of what that might be.
Speaker 3 (07:16):
So true, but I.
Speaker 1 (07:17):
Don't want to look cool, but I know when I
think something's.
Speaker 4 (07:19):
Cool, yeah, that is one hundred percent, like it is
sort of its own identity, Like I think cool but
you're not buying in. To say, a rebellious is like
a Vivian Westward or even like a more grungy Soubi cool.
You don't necessarily default it with a brand. It's almost
like an undercurrent feeling you get from a brand.
Speaker 1 (07:38):
Yes, totally.
Speaker 2 (07:40):
And when I think of the word cool, because I'm
in my forties with a child, you have children, I
think cool is like for the kids, but it's not cool,
just means they're doing something right, that's right.
Speaker 4 (07:51):
If you want to tap into it and be part
of that, it's almost being part of that brand's story,
I think.
Speaker 2 (07:57):
So yeah, like you identify with it somehow, yes, missing.
So what do you think of the elements that gives
a brand coolness, like effortlessness or aspirational. Do you think
(08:17):
it's marketing? Do you think it's who's wearing it? Do
you think it's I mean price point? I mean I
think a lot of people go Prata and Jivanci. They're
cool because they're extensive and so people aspire. But cool
doesn't mean expensive. So what makes a brand cool?
Speaker 1 (08:33):
That's so hard.
Speaker 4 (08:35):
I think there's a few different elements at play. I
think the first is cultural relevancy. It has to have
some sort of relevance to what's going on in the
world socially, environmentally, politically, even so looking at.
Speaker 3 (08:48):
Sort of a bird's eye view at those.
Speaker 4 (08:49):
Macro trends of what's going on, and if there's some
relevance to your brand. So for example, at the moment,
people are traveling more than ever. Vacation and travel a
huge macro trends, So is that relevant to your brand?
Or for example, fitness and wellness has trickled down into
this gorpe core, which sort of is why so Alomans
(09:10):
have popped off New Balance, Like they didn't just come
out of anywhere, It's from something that's happening in the zeitgeist.
Number one is your brand has to have some sort
of cultural relevance. Two is that brand identity and a
really strong brand identity. And a lot of that comes
down to your values, who you are, what you stand
for as a brand. The founders play such a big
(09:30):
part in this, and I've seen so many brands. Sassin
vides an example where they sold Tomaya and then look,
they just go downhill because they didn't have Sarah Jane
and Heidi Middleton.
Speaker 3 (09:39):
Yes, at the essence, they lived and breeded that brand.
Speaker 4 (09:43):
Same with SUBI yes, the Three Boys, Hot DJ single
surf guys like, yes, they made that brand cool.
Speaker 1 (09:50):
It's so true.
Speaker 2 (09:51):
And now we have more visibility and access to the
behind the scenes of brands on social media.
Speaker 1 (09:56):
They want to know the who, not just the watch
thousand percent.
Speaker 2 (10:00):
And when you were saying, like, culturally, what's happening, I
think lockdown was quite a long time ago.
Speaker 1 (10:05):
Thank goodness.
Speaker 2 (10:05):
High Hills never really recovered that much, and so as
a result, shoes have never been cooler, or there hasn't
never been more options, because yes, we still wear a
heel depending on our life, but culturally brands went, hey,
we've got to make more flats and cool flats and yes,
trainers and it's.
Speaker 3 (10:23):
Impleasing to wear that all stemmed from COVID.
Speaker 2 (10:25):
Yes, thank god, and I'm glad to see you to
stay in various ways.
Speaker 4 (10:29):
Yeah, you're right, sort of fashion pivots with culture and
depending on what's going on. Yes, So yeah, brand identity
is a big one. And that's also actually like your branding.
Speaker 3 (10:39):
And logo is cool.
Speaker 4 (10:40):
I've had clients come to me and say, oh, we
want to be cool if the product's not there.
Speaker 3 (10:44):
It's not there.
Speaker 1 (10:45):
You can't force it.
Speaker 2 (10:46):
Yeah.
Speaker 1 (10:46):
I also like to your point on travel.
Speaker 2 (10:48):
Living is expensive at the moment, but we do a
lot of studies here at Mama Mia with everything that's
happening in the world and in their lives, and although
everyone's feeling the pinch, most people are prioritizing budget to travel,
and so you're seeing cool, comfy, versatile clothes that can
be worn literally on the plane but then on your trip.
And because we don't all have heaps of cash to
(11:10):
splash right now, but people are still wanting those adventures.
Speaker 1 (11:12):
And then fashion is following that.
Speaker 4 (11:14):
That's exactly right, and also dressing for the vacation as well,
which I love.
Speaker 2 (11:18):
Oh my god, me too. When I go away, I
pack ten thousand outfits and where too. But I think
I'm packing fun.
Speaker 3 (11:23):
Two different persons.
Speaker 1 (11:24):
I love Holidayly, She's so much fun.
Speaker 4 (11:27):
So you've got your brand identity, but that's different to
your actual product. That's more having a distinctive aesthetic. So
one of the things I love doing with the clients
is holding up photos or images of product from different
Australian brands.
Speaker 3 (11:38):
Age Zimmerman Gorman.
Speaker 4 (11:41):
You should be able to identify that brand from one image. Agreed,
So having a distinctive look is really important. So making
sure you stand out because at the moment, everything's so same, same.
Speaker 2 (11:52):
And then there's dupes, which I understand because you know
the democratization of shopping, not everyone can afford fancy things.
But let's not get the exact weird shaped button that
that brand has on a cheaper one, because there's a
line and I love knowing that age.
Speaker 1 (12:06):
But then I see something else. I'm like, oh, is
that Asi or not?
Speaker 2 (12:09):
You know Alimas at the moment, I can always tell
it's Alimes, but it might be copied. It's interesting, isn't it.
You want to have something different? Funny you also say
that because I was shopping on the Iconic last night,
because of course I was, and I was looking for
a brand, but I couldn't remember what.
Speaker 1 (12:23):
I was like, I'll go through the.
Speaker 2 (12:24):
Eight's edge and how many brands start with M was
so popular, like and a few other letters, and I
think I got to you and there was like four brands,
and I was like, well, I know it wasn't you
because there was a lot one of those end letters.
There was like four brands, and I was like, well,
if I ever started a brand, I would choose that
letter because it's different. So authenticity, how do brands do that?
(12:47):
And also what is authenticity and how does that relate
to coolness?
Speaker 1 (12:51):
Being authentic?
Speaker 2 (12:52):
People can see around fake marketing and you know a
lot of the sustainability, particularly some seem like lip servers,
some seem really authentic. Do you think shoppers care about authenticity?
Speaker 4 (13:05):
Yeah, and you can almost feel it. It's a subconscious
you get from a brand. I hate the world, Like
everyone says, authentic be more on your mind, but it
is true, and we all sort of resonate and look
for that naturally.
Speaker 3 (13:18):
I find.
Speaker 4 (13:19):
Yeah, I think that authenticity stems from back to that
founder and if you've got a strong purpose about why
you're doing something to start with. So every brand just
back to using Sassin Bider as an example. They started
at Portabelli Markets in London. They were selling customized distress gens.
Speaker 2 (13:37):
I saved up for my first pair of sassin By
jeans and this was when Layby existed and I had
to drive to Chatswood every few weeks to give them
twenty dollars. Oh my god, the coolness and the authenticity.
Speaker 3 (13:51):
That's exactly right.
Speaker 4 (13:52):
And Betina Liatos Yeah, and recently that little yellow tab and.
Speaker 1 (13:55):
When you know you know, no, you know that's right.
But what about the bigger brands?
Speaker 2 (13:59):
You know, say, our listeners are going to the local Westfield,
So it's not so much kind of the labels that
we know, but maybe more the chain stores. Can they
be authentic or can they be cool?
Speaker 4 (14:10):
They're never gonna be because they're so overly commercialized. That
subculture vibe doesn't mean back to that number three, that
distinctive aesthetic or product.
Speaker 3 (14:20):
Even yeah, you see.
Speaker 4 (14:21):
Even is a kmart b W you see their products
really popping off at the moment it can bring them
back into that site.
Speaker 3 (14:27):
Guys, they're ever gonna be sort of that.
Speaker 1 (14:30):
Brand if you a brand, no, but an item.
Speaker 3 (14:33):
Yeah, yeah, that's right.
Speaker 2 (14:34):
And there's as a woman, I don't know, there's just
such a joy of finding a great big w gene
or a cam up top because it's an affordable brand,
but it's not quote unquite cool. But if you find
a cool thing in that store, you're.
Speaker 3 (14:45):
Like, everyone, I got this camar and the pride in that.
Speaker 4 (14:48):
Yeah, back in the day at school, you never want
anyone to know you're wearing a brand like that.
Speaker 3 (14:52):
But now if you find a bargain, you want everyone
to know.
Speaker 1 (14:55):
I remember when it was Mufty Day, You're like, what
am I gonna wear? I'm gonna wear my sty t shirt.
Oh my gosh, Oh no, well mum take me to
the shop.
Speaker 3 (15:01):
Yeah.
Speaker 2 (15:10):
Are there any fashion brands right now that you think
are really nailing this? You know they're very cool culturally
or just are on your radar.
Speaker 4 (15:18):
So Subie's really top of mind at the moment because
they showed an Australian Fashion Week this year. I think
they were founded in nineteen ninety nine two thousand, so
twenty five years later they didn't actually have relevance.
Speaker 1 (15:29):
All I was gonna.
Speaker 2 (15:30):
Say, I feel like they ebbed and flowed. They fell
off my radar. And my husband loves a sample sale,
always goes to the Subie sample sale, but in the
last two years he's been going to the non sample
just shopping Subie. And we were overseas. We went into
the Subie store in London and then I was like,
oh Subie. And then I'm like, oh Subee, it's so
cool again. You know, I got a really great little
(15:52):
sweat the other day like it's bad.
Speaker 3 (15:54):
And that's right.
Speaker 4 (15:54):
And they went through a few different changes of hands
and then they got brought out by General Pants and
they got pip Edwards back on. So this new fresh
team on board, and I think one of their taglines
at the moment is shedding our adolescent rebirthing essentially this
new brand. But I always remember in two thousand and
(16:14):
one at Australian Fashion Week how they let down two
hundred live mice.
Speaker 1 (16:18):
My god, I remember that too.
Speaker 3 (16:20):
That's sort of like challenging norms.
Speaker 1 (16:23):
I guess when I wore my Ssassin by Rap leggings.
Speaker 3 (16:26):
Yeah, that's where they would have launched.
Speaker 1 (16:27):
The rap probably.
Speaker 4 (16:30):
But doing things like that I just think is a
cool thing for Brown to do. And they've always maintained
like that gritty, underground, grungy essence despite being commercialized, like
you said you saw them in New York Barney's or whatnot.
Speaker 3 (16:43):
So erin Dearing, I love Dearing.
Speaker 1 (16:45):
I love her.
Speaker 4 (16:46):
Erindaring founded Triangles and it was so successful, so she
knows we're swim where brand and coming out with Deering
it's all sustainable, which you know, she would have just
made sure every I was dotted and every team was crossed,
so the sustainability fronts there. There's some gender neutral pieces
and it's almost got a bit of a Western vibe.
Speaker 1 (17:07):
I agree with very unique.
Speaker 2 (17:09):
It's funny that you mentioned her because back when I
was at Cosmo, I reached out to interview Erin when
Triangle was going off, and you know that was that
neoprene swimsuit and now you look back in the bottoms
actually made you look like you wearing nappy.
Speaker 1 (17:21):
But it was phenomenal. They sold.
Speaker 2 (17:24):
She went off the radar and she's come back and
now she's got this incredible brand.
Speaker 1 (17:27):
Out of Melbourne.
Speaker 2 (17:27):
Not cheap but unique, well made, supporting an Ossie brand.
She wasn't so much the face of Triangle that she
was quite behind the scenes, but now she's used her
story of the who, not just the what.
Speaker 3 (17:39):
That's right.
Speaker 4 (17:40):
I was going to say that I don't know much
about the daring story. I know Erin is the story
which has made me invested in that brand.
Speaker 1 (17:48):
Correct.
Speaker 2 (17:48):
I would probably I'd be like, oh that's nice, I'm
not going to spend that much money, But now because
I follow her journey, yep, I would splurge on a
piece because of who she is and how much i'dm
I her.
Speaker 1 (17:59):
Yeah.
Speaker 4 (17:59):
Love and do you know Grace Wells Bonna No, ne
UK really gorgeous tailoring even like a Wardrobe NYC esque,
but UK vibe.
Speaker 2 (18:10):
And Wardrobe NYC is Christine Centenaria's brand, who is their
editor of Vogue, who I worked with one hundred years
ago at Cosmo. And I think, because you know her,
you love her stuff exactly.
Speaker 4 (18:21):
Yeah, And what I love how she created wardrobe so
you buy the wardrobe.
Speaker 3 (18:24):
I never really saw that. Before Wardrobe NYC.
Speaker 2 (18:27):
You literally bought a capsule, but now you can buy
things individually use not everyone has a million dollars, that's right.
Speaker 4 (18:32):
I never actually bought anything from there, but I love
that concept of buying a whole wardrobe for the season.
Speaker 3 (18:37):
There's no thinking about it. You just guarantee no, it's
going to be.
Speaker 1 (18:40):
Cool and mix and match. Yeah.
Speaker 4 (18:42):
So yeah, Wales Bonner, she's tailoring, but she does this
biracial Jamaican They call it Afro Africa, sort of like
sprinkled and inspired tailoring.
Speaker 3 (18:53):
But it's just cool and she does so many collaborations
with addit us.
Speaker 4 (18:57):
The Wales Bonner added us Sombers and it's just a
cool brand.
Speaker 3 (19:01):
That sort of has that story behind it. It's different
the aesthetics there.
Speaker 1 (19:05):
And evolving with collabse and like not resting on their laurels.
Speaker 4 (19:07):
That's right, because brand collaborations are all so such a
really good way for brands to quote unquote become cool
or be seen as cool.
Speaker 1 (19:15):
I agree.
Speaker 2 (19:15):
I think, you know, like the high street stores like
Uniglo do that really well when they collaborate with brands
like J W Anderson or they've got Marrimeco recently, and
I mean I love Unico because they've got great teath
or whatever. But I really do think when they do that,
H and M does it sometimes? Do you? Not everyone
can afford or want Alexander McQueen, but you might be
able to get H and M Alexander McQueen something. And
that's a really clever way to fuse those two things.
Speaker 3 (19:35):
That's right.
Speaker 4 (19:36):
It's also a good way for browns that are getting
a little bit stale, like Gucci, not saying they're ever stale,
but they're up there is a bit stuffy, and not everyone.
Speaker 1 (19:44):
Can remember because we're old.
Speaker 2 (19:46):
Remember Gucci was not a thing for like I reckon
maybe eight years ago, it came back.
Speaker 4 (19:51):
Yes, So it's doing those partnerships with Kith or added
ass to sort of bring inject that youthfulness back into them. Yes,
and gain that cultural relevancy that we were talking.
Speaker 2 (20:02):
Yeah, and again that's about who, not what and partake
of Vanetta. Everyone thinks that that's a relatively new brand.
It's so old they've got a new designer in reinvented
it so you can come back and be cool again
and friends. Speaking of coming back and being cool, I
loved chatting to listen to so much.
Speaker 1 (20:19):
She had so many amazing things.
Speaker 2 (20:20):
To share and incredible insights, so I had to ask
her back. In next week's episode, we'll continue this chat
and get into how celebrities impact a brand's cool factor,
and we play my favorite game, Bougie and Budget Cool
Brand's Edition. So tune in next week. See you then,