June 22, 2025 • 15 mins
I made lots of mistakes, some worse than others in my first 6 months of road bike ownership. Here I list 5 of the most common mistakes and how to avoid them.
Stay tuned to the end for a bonus tip!
Contact me: david@rideandthrive.co.uk
How to perform a pre-ride check HERE
If you you are wanting to get fit and fancy using kettlebells but don't know where to start, try my 30 days to kettlebell mastery Email course...Its FREE! Click the link below;
30 Days to Kettlebell mastery Email course
Stay tuned to the end for a bonus tip!
Contact me: david@rideandthrive.co.uk
How to perform a pre-ride check HERE
If you you are wanting to get fit and fancy using kettlebells but don't know where to start, try my 30 days to kettlebell mastery Email course...Its FREE! Click the link below;
30 Days to Kettlebell mastery Email course
Mark as Played
Transcript
Episode Transcript
Available transcripts are automatically generated. Complete accuracy is not guaranteed.
Speaker 1 (00:00):
Hey, folks, welcome to the podcast. My name's Dave, and
this is Ride and Thrive. How the Devil are you all?
Speaker 2 (00:09):
This week?
Speaker 1 (00:10):
I wanted to talk about five mistakes that I've made
when I first started biking, or in particular road biking,
and in the hope that you know you learn from
my mistakes and you don't make these same mistakes that
I do. And I'm going to jump straight in because
we've got a fair bit to get through. The first
(00:32):
one is saddle height. Now, on my mountain bike, I
was quite used to having a quick release on my saddle,
so I just pull the lever and I put it
up all down, depending on the type of riding I
was doing, if I was going to be riding uphill
or going downhill. And then I got a drop a
post fitted, which is a little gadget that you put
(00:57):
onto your bike and you press the button and the
saddle goes up and down, so you don't really have
a fixed saddle hiked. It just depends on the type
of ride and you're doing. If you're going downhill, you
want it down, if you're going uphill, you want it up.
So it was it was quite easy. So on my roebike.
I wasn't really sure where to put it. And it
was only when I started getting aches and pains in
(01:19):
my knees and at the back of, you know, my hamstrings,
that I actually decided to try and get some information
on it. So it turns out my saddle was too low,
and this is actually quite common. So if your saddle
is too low, you're putting going to be putting a
lot of pressure onto your knees and onto your quads,
so that after a while, you know, and we're talking one, two, three,
(01:43):
even longer hours in the saddle, that's really going to
add up that repetitive strain on the knee and the legs.
So it really is worth getting getting this right. So
the idea is that when you're pedaling and your your
leg is at the bottom of the stroke, it wants
to be nearly straight, Okay, it doesn't want to be bent.
(02:05):
So you want to be straightening your leg out every time.
And the best way I can describe this is if
you sit on your saddle, if you if you lean
it up against a wall, you know, and you sit
on your bike and you put your your heel onto
the pedal and put the pedal into the down stroke.
Your leg should be straight, so it should be straight down.
(02:28):
So if it's got, if it's bent at all, then
your saddle is too low, so you need to put
it up a little bit more. If you're struggling, if
you if you're stretching to put your your foot down
or your heel down, then your saddle is too high,
so you'll need to bring it down a little bit.
Speaker 2 (02:47):
And sometimes here we're talking millimeters.
Speaker 1 (02:49):
So the best way that you can do this is
is once you've adjusted your saddle and you've got it
just right, take a measurement. So get take measure and
just measure the tip of the saddle to the floor,
and that way you've got a ballpark figure to be
getting on with. Now. I like to call this a
quick and dirty method of getting the right saddle height,
(03:12):
but it worked for me. And if you went to
a bike fitter, you know they'd have all these fancy gadgets,
and you know they would get you to ride and
they would they would set your your saddle height sort
of precisely. But to get you started a quick and
dirty way. Then I find that that method works just right.
So when you first get your bike out the box,
(03:33):
make sure that you set that saddle to the correct
height and make a note of it somewhere as well. Okay,
the next one. Then the next one is actually when
you're on the bike and it's using the wrong gears.
And now this is a particular bugbear of mine. I
can see people out on the road when they're they're
(03:54):
pedaling along and they're laboring, pedaling quite slowly, so the
cadence is slow, and they are, you know, pushing it
at like a hard gear to pedal around, and that
means their cadence is too slow. So it's just going
to make be a lot of effort so to actually
(04:15):
make progress on the road. So you want your cadence,
which is the speed at which your pedals are turning
to be quite high. You want a quick cadence. This
means it will be easier to pedal. So to think
about it in terms of numbers, and this is going
to be quite hard to do if you've not got
a cycling computer. Most cycling computers they will they'll measure
(04:39):
the cadence of the of your pedal stroke. You want
to be around eighty five to ninety revolutions per minute. Now,
a lot of people will be further down that between
sixty and sixty five revolutions per minute. If you haven't
got a byte computer, then counting every time you hit
(05:02):
the top stroke or the downstroke, you know, one, two, three,
and trying to time that for a minute and just
to see how many times you know how what your
cadence is like by doing that. But if you've got
a bike computer, then you need to be looking at
your bike computer and trying to get that up. You know,
first of all, to eighty revolutions per minute, then eighty five,
(05:24):
and anywhere between eighty five and ninety five revolutions per minute.
Once you get going on the road, then you will
get fall into a natural cadence and natural rhythm. Mine's
around about eighty five, so it's I was looking to
try and get it up to ninety, but that seems
to be too quick for me, So eighty five seems
(05:44):
to do the trick for me.
Speaker 2 (05:47):
So pedaling.
Speaker 1 (05:50):
Eighty five revolutions per minute seems to seems to be
around about right for me, So have a go at
doing that. You kind of will know if you're peddling
too slow, your pedaling will be labored. If you're going
along and you're like, you're struggling and it's hard to pedal.
Then go into an easier gear usual your gears, get
into a faster gear and pedal round. Now, the aim
(06:12):
when you start going out on your bike rides is
to have constant pressure on those pedals. You don't want
to be doing a few pedal strokes and then you
know free wheeling for a bit. You want a constant
pressure on the pedals, and that way you're going to
improve your fitness. No end and that zone two base
where you get your endurance up, that's really going to
(06:34):
improve every time you go out. So number two is
getting the right gears. Number three, Wow, this is another
popular one and one which I didn't know when I
first got into road biking, and it was when you're
wearing bib shorts. Now, bib shorts are like cycling shorts. However,
(06:55):
they've got like shoulder straps that go over your shoulders
and they're a bit of a revelation to me because
when I used to cycle on the mountain bike and
i'd wear cycling shorts, you get that bit round around
the back of your back where your jersey's too short
and when your bends over, you know, your your bump
cracks showing at the top of your shorts.
Speaker 2 (07:14):
So bib shorts stops all that. You know that.
Speaker 1 (07:17):
It's got a nice bit that goes up over your
back and the shoulder straps go over and they've got
a lovely, lovely padded seat, all right, So they've got
like a pad in them so you can sit on
the saddle.
Speaker 2 (07:29):
It's and it's quite comfortable.
Speaker 1 (07:30):
Now, the more you pay for bib shorts, you know,
the more comfort that you get and the longer they
last as well. Now what the thing that point that
I'm making here about with bib shorts is they are
not designed to be worn with underwear, So you don't
wear underpants with your bib shorts. They just go right
next to your skin. That is what they're designed for.
(07:52):
If you do wear underpants, you're going to pay for
it because you'll start to get sweat and then that
will rob, you'll get chafing, and you'll get saddle saws.
So number three quite simple, don't wear pants under.
Speaker 2 (08:07):
Your bib shorts.
Speaker 1 (08:11):
Number four is all about fueling. Now, this this is
something maybe you're not you don't think, oh I'm just
getting started, you know, don't I don't really want to
be worrying about fueling. But I'll tell you a little
story about about fueling incorrectly. And this was a mountain
bike story. So I learned my lesson on a mountain bike.
I went out for a ride one day and I
was going out for an hour, so I'd had a
(08:34):
drink before I went, and I had a bit of water,
and I thought, I'm only going to be out an
hour and I won't take any food with me, and
you know, I was going on a fasted ride. So anyway,
as I was out, I started exploring this other route
outside the back of this forest, and it was it
was having a really good time, so I decided to
(08:54):
extend my route a bit. So I ended up being
out for about three hours, and about two hours in
I suffered a bonk, which is a technical term for
when you just totally run out of energy.
Speaker 2 (09:10):
And it is awful. It's a guess.
Speaker 1 (09:13):
I've never hit the wall when you know, when I've
been running, so I don't know what that's like, but
I can imagine it's the same as marathon runners when
they hit the wall. I literally couldn't turn the pedals anymore.
I was absolutely spent. I ended up collapsing off my
bike by the side of the trail. I was in
the middle of nowhere in the North York Moors, and
(09:35):
I didn't know what was going to do. I was
just totally had no energy whatsoever. So my lesson was learned.
I had to just stay there and just recoup some
of the energy. I ended up walking for a bit
with my bike when I could actually stand up again,
and then eventually I managed to get on my bike
and limped home. Never make that mistake again. So the
(09:57):
moral of this story is, if you go on out
for an hour, make sure you fuel correctly before the
ride so I feel correctly. I mean, just have something
to eat, like some carbs, some porridge is great for
the morning, or even a bit of brown toast for
peanut butter and jam, something like. I don't know, something
something that's going to fuel you for your ride. If
(10:17):
you're going out for longer than hour, just take something
with you. Take a bar with you, or I love
a peanut butter and banana wrap. I'll just wrap one
of those up in some foil and I'll stick it
in my back pocket. Sometimes I don't even have it,
but it's there should I need it.
Speaker 2 (10:33):
I prefer to.
Speaker 1 (10:35):
Prefer to have real food than gels, so don't really
carry gels and hydration wise, I always carry a water
bottle with a hydration tabin and sometimes I don't even
touch that, but it's there if I need it, especially
if I'm going out for longer than an hour. I
think the rides for me. If I'm going out for
two hours, that's probably the danger the danger time for me.
(10:58):
Because I'm going out for longer than two hours, I'll
factor in a coffee stop somewhere, but I don't if
I'm just going for two hours, I'm just out for
two hours and that's it. So I need to make
sure that I take stuff, take stuff with me. So
incorrect fueling is the next one. That was number four,
wasn't it. I think number five is having the wrong
(11:20):
pressures tire pressures, the wrong pressure in your tire, so
if it's too high a pressure, then it's going to
be really uncomfortable ride and you're going to feel everything
whilst whilst you're on your ride, and can also be
make the bike handling a little bit skittish as well too,
(11:43):
low and you could suffer a puncture. So well, if
you're riding with tubes, which I am presuming that you are,
but you might not be, so you've got to get
your tire pressures right now.
Speaker 2 (11:55):
There are websites.
Speaker 1 (11:56):
I haven't got any to hand, unfortunately. Maybe it's something
I could put in the show notes. There are just
google it. There are sites that have tire pressure calculators
that are free, so you basically put everything in your
tire size, You know your weight and your total weight
of everything, your bik and everything, and it will spit
(12:18):
out some tire pressures for you. So that tire pressures
are really dependent on the width of your tire or
the volume of your tire.
Speaker 2 (12:25):
So if you've got a.
Speaker 1 (12:26):
Really narrow tire like mine twenty five millimeter, then my
tire pressures are around.
Speaker 2 (12:34):
About eighty eighty five.
Speaker 1 (12:35):
If you've got big tires on thirty five millimeters or more,
then your tire pressures could be down fifty or even
lower than that. So it's worth looking up your tires,
getting the correct tire pressure, buying a tire pressure gauge,
and buying a track pump as well to make sure
that you keep those tires at the right pressure, because
(12:57):
you don't want to be running tires that are either
too low or too high. That's number five, and this
was this was only five mistakes. I've kind of got
a bonus mistake for you. So the last one, number six.
Then the bonus one is bike maintenance. Learning some bike
maintenance skills. Now this could be just very basic.
Speaker 2 (13:23):
It doesn't be.
Speaker 1 (13:24):
You know, you don't have to be a bike mechanic
for the Tour de France, but just learning some basic
skills will go a long way for your comfort and
also for your safety. Not so much in road biking,
but in mountain biking. I've had all sorts of things
that happen. I've had a front wheel come out because
(13:45):
the quick release wasn't done up properly.
Speaker 2 (13:48):
I've had the rear derailia.
Speaker 1 (13:50):
Fall off, the mecanga fell off. I've had all sorts
of snap chains. Now when you're mounting bike and you
carry all the spares with you, and luckily, as part
of my counting biking course, I've done a little bit
of I've done a few skills courses, so I've managed
to sort all those things out and get myself back.
Speaker 2 (14:10):
To home.
Speaker 1 (14:11):
However, the most common one of your running tubes is
a puncture. So learning how to change a puncture, changing
inner tube and fix a puncture is.
Speaker 2 (14:21):
Going to go a long way. And also, if you.
Speaker 1 (14:24):
Learn to do a pre ride bike check before you
go out, you're going to save yourself a lot of
hassle potentially later on down the line. Now I have
done a pre ride bike check on my website as
I've got a companion YouTube sorry not website YouTube channel,
(14:44):
So I've got a companion YouTube channel, so I'll put
a link to that in the show notes. But yeah,
just just learning to do a basic pre ride check
where you check tire pressures, all the breaks, the quick
releases are all done up your headsets not loose. You
know that check in just at base it takes about
(15:06):
five minutes. Is gonna save yourself a lot of hassle. Okay, folks,
that's it. That's six the mistakes there, you see. So
we're a little bonus one there for you. Like as ever,
if you can contact me at David at Ridanthrive dot
co dot uk if you want to hear anything particular
on the podcast. But until then, stay tuned and wait
(15:30):
for next Time's episode and bye for now.
Hey, folks, welcome to the podcast. My name's Dave, and
this is Ride and Thrive. How the Devil are you all?
Speaker 2 (00:09):
This week?
Speaker 1 (00:10):
I wanted to talk about five mistakes that I've made
when I first started biking, or in particular road biking,
and in the hope that you know you learn from
my mistakes and you don't make these same mistakes that
I do. And I'm going to jump straight in because
we've got a fair bit to get through. The first
(00:32):
one is saddle height. Now, on my mountain bike, I
was quite used to having a quick release on my saddle,
so I just pull the lever and I put it
up all down, depending on the type of riding I
was doing, if I was going to be riding uphill
or going downhill. And then I got a drop a
post fitted, which is a little gadget that you put
(00:57):
onto your bike and you press the button and the
saddle goes up and down, so you don't really have
a fixed saddle hiked. It just depends on the type
of ride and you're doing. If you're going downhill, you
want it down, if you're going uphill, you want it up.
So it was it was quite easy. So on my roebike.
I wasn't really sure where to put it. And it
was only when I started getting aches and pains in
(01:19):
my knees and at the back of, you know, my hamstrings,
that I actually decided to try and get some information
on it. So it turns out my saddle was too low,
and this is actually quite common. So if your saddle
is too low, you're putting going to be putting a
lot of pressure onto your knees and onto your quads,
so that after a while, you know, and we're talking one, two, three,
(01:43):
even longer hours in the saddle, that's really going to
add up that repetitive strain on the knee and the legs.
So it really is worth getting getting this right. So
the idea is that when you're pedaling and your your
leg is at the bottom of the stroke, it wants
to be nearly straight, Okay, it doesn't want to be bent.
(02:05):
So you want to be straightening your leg out every time.
And the best way I can describe this is if
you sit on your saddle, if you if you lean
it up against a wall, you know, and you sit
on your bike and you put your your heel onto
the pedal and put the pedal into the down stroke.
Your leg should be straight, so it should be straight down.
(02:28):
So if it's got, if it's bent at all, then
your saddle is too low, so you need to put
it up a little bit more. If you're struggling, if
you if you're stretching to put your your foot down
or your heel down, then your saddle is too high,
so you'll need to bring it down a little bit.
Speaker 2 (02:47):
And sometimes here we're talking millimeters.
Speaker 1 (02:49):
So the best way that you can do this is
is once you've adjusted your saddle and you've got it
just right, take a measurement. So get take measure and
just measure the tip of the saddle to the floor,
and that way you've got a ballpark figure to be
getting on with. Now. I like to call this a
quick and dirty method of getting the right saddle height,
(03:12):
but it worked for me. And if you went to
a bike fitter, you know they'd have all these fancy gadgets,
and you know they would get you to ride and
they would they would set your your saddle height sort
of precisely. But to get you started a quick and
dirty way. Then I find that that method works just right.
So when you first get your bike out the box,
(03:33):
make sure that you set that saddle to the correct
height and make a note of it somewhere as well. Okay,
the next one. Then the next one is actually when
you're on the bike and it's using the wrong gears.
And now this is a particular bugbear of mine. I
can see people out on the road when they're they're
(03:54):
pedaling along and they're laboring, pedaling quite slowly, so the
cadence is slow, and they are, you know, pushing it
at like a hard gear to pedal around, and that
means their cadence is too slow. So it's just going
to make be a lot of effort so to actually
(04:15):
make progress on the road. So you want your cadence,
which is the speed at which your pedals are turning
to be quite high. You want a quick cadence. This
means it will be easier to pedal. So to think
about it in terms of numbers, and this is going
to be quite hard to do if you've not got
a cycling computer. Most cycling computers they will they'll measure
(04:39):
the cadence of the of your pedal stroke. You want
to be around eighty five to ninety revolutions per minute. Now,
a lot of people will be further down that between
sixty and sixty five revolutions per minute. If you haven't
got a byte computer, then counting every time you hit
(05:02):
the top stroke or the downstroke, you know, one, two, three,
and trying to time that for a minute and just
to see how many times you know how what your
cadence is like by doing that. But if you've got
a bike computer, then you need to be looking at
your bike computer and trying to get that up. You know,
first of all, to eighty revolutions per minute, then eighty five,
(05:24):
and anywhere between eighty five and ninety five revolutions per minute.
Once you get going on the road, then you will
get fall into a natural cadence and natural rhythm. Mine's
around about eighty five, so it's I was looking to
try and get it up to ninety, but that seems
to be too quick for me, So eighty five seems
(05:44):
to do the trick for me.
Speaker 2 (05:47):
So pedaling.
Speaker 1 (05:50):
Eighty five revolutions per minute seems to seems to be
around about right for me, So have a go at
doing that. You kind of will know if you're peddling
too slow, your pedaling will be labored. If you're going
along and you're like, you're struggling and it's hard to pedal.
Then go into an easier gear usual your gears, get
into a faster gear and pedal round. Now, the aim
(06:12):
when you start going out on your bike rides is
to have constant pressure on those pedals. You don't want
to be doing a few pedal strokes and then you
know free wheeling for a bit. You want a constant
pressure on the pedals, and that way you're going to
improve your fitness. No end and that zone two base
where you get your endurance up, that's really going to
(06:34):
improve every time you go out. So number two is
getting the right gears. Number three, Wow, this is another
popular one and one which I didn't know when I
first got into road biking, and it was when you're
wearing bib shorts. Now, bib shorts are like cycling shorts. However,
(06:55):
they've got like shoulder straps that go over your shoulders
and they're a bit of a revelation to me because
when I used to cycle on the mountain bike and
i'd wear cycling shorts, you get that bit round around
the back of your back where your jersey's too short
and when your bends over, you know, your your bump
cracks showing at the top of your shorts.
Speaker 2 (07:14):
So bib shorts stops all that. You know that.
Speaker 1 (07:17):
It's got a nice bit that goes up over your
back and the shoulder straps go over and they've got
a lovely, lovely padded seat, all right, So they've got
like a pad in them so you can sit on
the saddle.
Speaker 2 (07:29):
It's and it's quite comfortable.
Speaker 1 (07:30):
Now, the more you pay for bib shorts, you know,
the more comfort that you get and the longer they
last as well. Now what the thing that point that
I'm making here about with bib shorts is they are
not designed to be worn with underwear, So you don't
wear underpants with your bib shorts. They just go right
next to your skin. That is what they're designed for.
(07:52):
If you do wear underpants, you're going to pay for
it because you'll start to get sweat and then that
will rob, you'll get chafing, and you'll get saddle saws.
So number three quite simple, don't wear pants under.
Speaker 2 (08:07):
Your bib shorts.
Speaker 1 (08:11):
Number four is all about fueling. Now, this this is
something maybe you're not you don't think, oh I'm just
getting started, you know, don't I don't really want to
be worrying about fueling. But I'll tell you a little
story about about fueling incorrectly. And this was a mountain
bike story. So I learned my lesson on a mountain bike.
I went out for a ride one day and I
was going out for an hour, so I'd had a
(08:34):
drink before I went, and I had a bit of water,
and I thought, I'm only going to be out an
hour and I won't take any food with me, and
you know, I was going on a fasted ride. So anyway,
as I was out, I started exploring this other route
outside the back of this forest, and it was it
was having a really good time, so I decided to
(08:54):
extend my route a bit. So I ended up being
out for about three hours, and about two hours in
I suffered a bonk, which is a technical term for
when you just totally run out of energy.
Speaker 2 (09:10):
And it is awful. It's a guess.
Speaker 1 (09:13):
I've never hit the wall when you know, when I've
been running, so I don't know what that's like, but
I can imagine it's the same as marathon runners when
they hit the wall. I literally couldn't turn the pedals anymore.
I was absolutely spent. I ended up collapsing off my
bike by the side of the trail. I was in
the middle of nowhere in the North York Moors, and
(09:35):
I didn't know what was going to do. I was
just totally had no energy whatsoever. So my lesson was learned.
I had to just stay there and just recoup some
of the energy. I ended up walking for a bit
with my bike when I could actually stand up again,
and then eventually I managed to get on my bike
and limped home. Never make that mistake again. So the
(09:57):
moral of this story is, if you go on out
for an hour, make sure you fuel correctly before the
ride so I feel correctly. I mean, just have something
to eat, like some carbs, some porridge is great for
the morning, or even a bit of brown toast for
peanut butter and jam, something like. I don't know, something
something that's going to fuel you for your ride. If
(10:17):
you're going out for longer than hour, just take something
with you. Take a bar with you, or I love
a peanut butter and banana wrap. I'll just wrap one
of those up in some foil and I'll stick it
in my back pocket. Sometimes I don't even have it,
but it's there should I need it.
Speaker 2 (10:33):
I prefer to.
Speaker 1 (10:35):
Prefer to have real food than gels, so don't really
carry gels and hydration wise, I always carry a water
bottle with a hydration tabin and sometimes I don't even
touch that, but it's there if I need it, especially
if I'm going out for longer than an hour. I
think the rides for me. If I'm going out for
two hours, that's probably the danger the danger time for me.
(10:58):
Because I'm going out for longer than two hours, I'll
factor in a coffee stop somewhere, but I don't if
I'm just going for two hours, I'm just out for
two hours and that's it. So I need to make
sure that I take stuff, take stuff with me. So
incorrect fueling is the next one. That was number four,
wasn't it. I think number five is having the wrong
(11:20):
pressures tire pressures, the wrong pressure in your tire, so
if it's too high a pressure, then it's going to
be really uncomfortable ride and you're going to feel everything
whilst whilst you're on your ride, and can also be
make the bike handling a little bit skittish as well too,
(11:43):
low and you could suffer a puncture. So well, if
you're riding with tubes, which I am presuming that you are,
but you might not be, so you've got to get
your tire pressures right now.
Speaker 2 (11:55):
There are websites.
Speaker 1 (11:56):
I haven't got any to hand, unfortunately. Maybe it's something
I could put in the show notes. There are just
google it. There are sites that have tire pressure calculators
that are free, so you basically put everything in your
tire size, You know your weight and your total weight
of everything, your bik and everything, and it will spit
(12:18):
out some tire pressures for you. So that tire pressures
are really dependent on the width of your tire or
the volume of your tire.
Speaker 2 (12:25):
So if you've got a.
Speaker 1 (12:26):
Really narrow tire like mine twenty five millimeter, then my
tire pressures are around.
Speaker 2 (12:34):
About eighty eighty five.
Speaker 1 (12:35):
If you've got big tires on thirty five millimeters or more,
then your tire pressures could be down fifty or even
lower than that. So it's worth looking up your tires,
getting the correct tire pressure, buying a tire pressure gauge,
and buying a track pump as well to make sure
that you keep those tires at the right pressure, because
(12:57):
you don't want to be running tires that are either
too low or too high. That's number five, and this
was this was only five mistakes. I've kind of got
a bonus mistake for you. So the last one, number six.
Then the bonus one is bike maintenance. Learning some bike
maintenance skills. Now this could be just very basic.
Speaker 2 (13:23):
It doesn't be.
Speaker 1 (13:24):
You know, you don't have to be a bike mechanic
for the Tour de France, but just learning some basic
skills will go a long way for your comfort and
also for your safety. Not so much in road biking,
but in mountain biking. I've had all sorts of things
that happen. I've had a front wheel come out because
(13:45):
the quick release wasn't done up properly.
Speaker 2 (13:48):
I've had the rear derailia.
Speaker 1 (13:50):
Fall off, the mecanga fell off. I've had all sorts
of snap chains. Now when you're mounting bike and you
carry all the spares with you, and luckily, as part
of my counting biking course, I've done a little bit
of I've done a few skills courses, so I've managed
to sort all those things out and get myself back.
Speaker 2 (14:10):
To home.
Speaker 1 (14:11):
However, the most common one of your running tubes is
a puncture. So learning how to change a puncture, changing
inner tube and fix a puncture is.
Speaker 2 (14:21):
Going to go a long way. And also, if you.
Speaker 1 (14:24):
Learn to do a pre ride bike check before you
go out, you're going to save yourself a lot of
hassle potentially later on down the line. Now I have
done a pre ride bike check on my website as
I've got a companion YouTube sorry not website YouTube channel,
(14:44):
So I've got a companion YouTube channel, so I'll put
a link to that in the show notes. But yeah,
just just learning to do a basic pre ride check
where you check tire pressures, all the breaks, the quick
releases are all done up your headsets not loose. You
know that check in just at base it takes about
(15:06):
five minutes. Is gonna save yourself a lot of hassle. Okay, folks,
that's it. That's six the mistakes there, you see. So
we're a little bonus one there for you. Like as ever,
if you can contact me at David at Ridanthrive dot
co dot uk if you want to hear anything particular
on the podcast. But until then, stay tuned and wait
(15:30):
for next Time's episode and bye for now.
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