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Speaker 1 (00:09):
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Speaker 2 (00:16):
Al Brown as this talented. He's a talented, innovative Kiwi icon.
He's an entrepreneur, a world leading chef owning some of
New Zealand's greatest restaurant brands. He's a fisherman and a
TV presenter. But for our twenty twenty four has also
been a very challenging year. The hospitality sector has faced
some of its toughest times yet, and Al Brown joins
(00:39):
me now, happy new year.
Speaker 3 (00:40):
Good a happy new year. Tom.
Speaker 2 (00:41):
Yes you too, well, you said that twenty twenty four
was the worst, your toughest time of your forty year
career in hospitality. Just tell us about it. Oh, I
think it actually goes back a bit further.
Speaker 3 (00:55):
I mean COVID.
Speaker 4 (00:56):
I mean it's just the hangover and it's everything sort
of has got worse and worse. I guess in the
sense that you know, it's been a societal change actually
with people you know working for a start, so there's
thirty percent people less, you know, working from home and
so they're not in the city and we're a breakfast
lunch offering in our bagel business, so you know, that
(01:18):
just comes straight off the bottom line. And then you
throw in the you know, the recession and the cost
of living crisis.
Speaker 3 (01:24):
And you know, it's hard going in our game. And
it's funny because I never.
Speaker 4 (01:28):
Really thought I thought hospitality was pretty immune to change.
You know, people don't travel so much or buy a fridge,
but they still love to have a coffee or a
glass of wine.
Speaker 3 (01:39):
You know. Is it sort of like over the of
your career, I mean forty years. Well, wow, that's that's
quite that's quite some time. You must be a grown up.
Speaker 2 (01:47):
I imagine when you start off, you're sort of boyed
by a sense of optimism, and then you come along
to a tough time like this, Does it change the
essence of the way you view business and all that
sort of thing?
Speaker 3 (01:56):
Oh?
Speaker 4 (01:56):
Look, you know I when COVID hasn't and all that
sort of happened, I was like, I had quite a
bit of bravado. I was like, oh, all, life's not
just you know, going one way, and everything rose in.
We had had a pretty good run and hospitality for
quite a long time, so I was like, oh, I
take it on the chin.
Speaker 3 (02:12):
And get back up.
Speaker 4 (02:13):
But it's gone off for long enough now and and
but you know, and we're seeing we're seeing some signs
of of it turning. And it's nice to be into
twenty five now and you know, put twenty four behind us.
Speaker 3 (02:27):
And and you know, you've got to be positive.
Speaker 4 (02:29):
And that's you know, we're in the hospitality game, in
the service game, and you know it'll it'll get there.
But the odd you know, the odd tough times. I
don't think it's a bad thing for for businesses. You know,
there's that old cliche you learn more in the tough
times and then it's just harder, that's all.
Speaker 3 (02:46):
But yeah, we'll get there.
Speaker 2 (02:47):
You say you've got to be positive, is that you
just have to or you are actually feeling well, I'm
a pretty positive person.
Speaker 4 (02:54):
Yeah, yeah, And and I'm a big believer that the
more positivity you put out there, the more people.
Speaker 3 (03:02):
Sort of feed off that, I guess.
Speaker 4 (03:04):
And you know, when when when we have in our businesses,
that's why what hospitality is about. It's not just about
the eating and drinking. It's about creating an atmosphere which
is fun and inducive to laughter and conversation and arguments
and everything else. So yeah, I'm pretty positive guy.
Speaker 2 (03:23):
Where do you think people are at with fine dining?
Do we do that a lot in New Zealand?
Speaker 4 (03:27):
Well, I mean I started in that game, and I
thought when I learned to be a chef, you know
that kind of that New Zealand and think, oh, well,
the you know, the best chefs of the fine dining chefs.
Speaker 3 (03:38):
And I did that and we opened a great restaurant
in Wellington called Logan Brown and ninety.
Speaker 4 (03:43):
Six, which is only thirty years ago and Steve's still
running that.
Speaker 3 (03:49):
And you know, I.
Speaker 4 (03:53):
Enjoyed that in a sense, but I always felt like
the jacket didn't fit. You know, I'm a pretty informal
sort of guy. And when I left Logan Brown, I thought,
oh well, I'm not going to do fine dining anymore.
And in fact, I didn't think I was actually going
to do restaurants anymore. But when I got the opportunity
to do to make depot up here in Auckland, and
(04:14):
I started thinking about, you know, what is it that
I love about hospitality? It is the informality and and
you know, to answer your question, find you know, I
think we're a country that does informality really really well,
and I think we find formality quite cloying and and
we sort of get a little bit frozen up when
the waiter comes with his arm behind his back and
(04:37):
drinking crystal and white tablecloths and you can't pronounce the
wine and the wine list, and we feel uncomfortable in
those environments. But having said that, we have some chefs
in New Zealand and some restaurants that are as good
as anywhere in the world, and we need to have
those sorts of people really on the world stage as well.
(04:57):
So you know, I think there will always be a
place for it. But I think generally our love as
a country is around informality.
Speaker 3 (05:10):
Hey, how much have people's palets changed since you started cooking?
Speaker 2 (05:14):
Because the one thing to talk about the evolution that
we've seen in the quality of our chefs and the
international cuisine. You know, we're multicultural society. What's the key
we palette been? Like, if you dished up something you've
got today forty years ago, would.
Speaker 3 (05:29):
You have been like, there's no way they'll take that.
Speaker 4 (05:31):
That's exactly that, you know, It's it's a really interesting question,
and I think you know, when you think back to
forty years ago when you know, we you know us
to say we're a bit of a culinary wasteland. You know,
we had from the old country. Really that's what we ate.
Lots of peas and potatoes and long cooked you know,
meats and sticky date pudding and things, which I still
(05:53):
love all those sorts of things. But I think once
we traveled and we realized the gold mine that we
were sort of sitting on and as a country to
produce and and you know, we grew up with Minton Parsley.
I mean, now, look, you have every you know, we
realized that we can grow anything here in this country.
If it's if it's olives, we can grow olives, we
can grow grapes for wine, we can do pine nuts,
(06:16):
we can do with sabi. You know, it's pretty endless.
So our palette as a nation has changed dramatically. You know,
Chili's no one, no one really rarely embraced any of that.
But now there's people that you know, that's a big
part of you know, people carry chili flakes in their
purse to put on their food. You know, So it's
(06:40):
you know, I just think that you know, and we've
traveled and as a country, very lucky that we that
we you know, we're you know, first world country, are
not bound by tradition, so we travel and we can
magpie from all the other sort of cuisines and.
Speaker 3 (06:57):
Styles from around the world.
Speaker 4 (06:58):
And so, you know, I think our eating scene in
New Zealand's magnificent.
Speaker 3 (07:03):
Is there anything you won't eat?
Speaker 2 (07:04):
Because there's a few things I think I've seen you
cook that I thought, oh, I might struggle with that,
but what about you?
Speaker 4 (07:10):
Oh no, I like to try everything, to be honest,
and you know, I have a pretty I guess.
Speaker 3 (07:15):
You know. I grew up on a farm as well, so.
Speaker 4 (07:18):
You know, we're eating off ul once or twice a week,
and so I've eaten some you know, started off as
a kid eating some pretty strange foods, I guess. So
I've always been pretty open to it. And when you
travel two countries where the cuisine is challenging, you know.
Speaker 3 (07:35):
I'd like to try everything once, you know.
Speaker 4 (07:38):
And yeah, and I have, but don't ask me for
the worst ones because people might cancel me.
Speaker 3 (07:48):
Game or farmed? What do you ask you mean?
Speaker 2 (07:52):
I like, well, look, I had look, I went round
to a friend's place once and his mum had got
some wild boar, right, and I really struggled with that.
So I swamped the whole meal with the gravy. But
she'd made the gravy out of wild boar, and I thought,
I'm out. The gaming stuff's not for me. Well, that
one wasn't.
Speaker 4 (08:07):
And isn't that funny because I actually if people had
ask me what's my favorite wild game for New Zealand,
it would probably be bore.
Speaker 3 (08:16):
There were bristles sticking out of it. Yeah, I kind
of it's like.
Speaker 4 (08:20):
This, And it depends how off that ball was. You know,
if it was a little young pig, it would be
be very tender and delicious and not too strong.
Speaker 3 (08:29):
But if it was an old sour or something, maybe
not so much. Let's let's just go with that.
Speaker 2 (08:36):
What actually, what is the most accessible sort of wild
game for people to eat here?
Speaker 3 (08:40):
Well?
Speaker 4 (08:40):
I think rabbit and and we don't we don't eat
it enough. Rabbit is just delicious. And I have a
little property up north and have a twenty two under.
I'm not allowed to sound in my bed in my
lock safe and my lock safe, and you know, I'd
like to like to ping a rabbit whenever I can
and certainly don't waste them, love eating them, you know.
(09:02):
And you look at the look at the scene down
in central Lo Tago and the rabbit population down there.
I mean, I think, you know, I've always thought, imagine
if you had like a fried rabbit burger caravan on
the top of the Crown Range, you know, and and
they you are getting rid of the problem, or the
tourists or pollen have their rabbit burger, they'd probably buy
(09:23):
the rabbit tail key ring and we'd be getting rid
of the poplar problem in that area.
Speaker 3 (09:27):
And you know, eating from the land.
Speaker 4 (09:29):
So rat rabbits the one for me that I think
we don't eat enough.
Speaker 3 (09:33):
Ol Brown's rabbit burgers. I can see it.
Speaker 2 (09:35):
Well, maybe if I'm driving over the Crown Rangers, I'm
going to see this carave.
Speaker 3 (09:39):
And I talked.
Speaker 4 (09:39):
About this for a long I've even talked to Nadia
Limb about it, because Nardi has a has a cheers
an abatoire on her property down there, that is that
that can do game and and domestic animals. And but
something like that, I reckon would go off.
Speaker 2 (09:54):
Have you sort of been your own inspiration or have
there been particular chefs or who have been the ones
you've sort of thought, my goodness, I hadn't thought of
things that way, and they really inspire you.
Speaker 4 (10:05):
Look, I hard to single them out. Well, it's it's
sort of, you know, I've never been I'm just a
relaxed person and I look at food as Yes, I
love to cook food and cook it well, but I've
never really seen myself as and had aspirations to be,
you know, a great I guess back to what we're
(10:25):
talking about, the fine dining share or anything like that.
I love to cook food, but I like it to
be generous. I like it to be the vehicle for
people coming together, and I.
Speaker 3 (10:34):
Like there to be lots of it.
Speaker 2 (10:35):
If you're coming around in my place for a barbecue
and I had the barbecue fired up, you can either
bring something prepared or you're going to do it.
Speaker 3 (10:41):
What's your show off dish for me?
Speaker 4 (10:44):
Well for barbecuing, you know, and people say, what's what's
the what's the you know dish that represents New Zealand
for you? And that's a great conversation that lots of
people sort of have. And it's an interesting one because
it's really gone probably from you know, roast lamb and
Pavlova to as you talked about how our food scene
has changed so much now. But for me, I'd hope
(11:06):
you'd have a little a little steel plate on your
barbecue because I'd love.
Speaker 3 (11:10):
To bring a fresher of some sort.
Speaker 4 (11:12):
Okay, Freda is well, it's a beautiful name for a start,
But there's a lot in the name, you know, And
you say you know, you mentioned a fretta. It can
be a corn for it, a power for a white bat,
for a muscle, fredder a Zucchinian feta, and everyone loves
a fretter. So and it's informal and it's tasty and
it's easy to cook, So be fretta, and then it'd
(11:34):
be a lamb chop for sure.
Speaker 3 (11:35):
Lamb chop. What are your choice? Are those?
Speaker 2 (11:38):
Is that basically your your food choices over summer? And
what else would you throw in there for your food
choices over the next a month or two.
Speaker 4 (11:44):
My place up in fun and Naki is near the
near the beach, so a lot of a lot of fish,
eat a lot of fish. I love Kenner. I'm getting
lots of people across the line with Kenner. Kenner, you know,
I like to take the tongues out of out of
the shell, and then I lightly bred them and saute
them and put them on toast. Squeeze a lemon, sometimes
(12:06):
an egg, and you give that to people and they
where they're eating.
Speaker 3 (12:08):
Scallops, Well that does sound quite good.
Speaker 4 (12:10):
Yeah, and then get away from the and then you
know that it's baby steps.
Speaker 3 (12:13):
That's the entry, entry level.
Speaker 4 (12:19):
Level into Kenner and then you'll go You'll keep going,
you know, and make a beautiful kinner custard like a
like a broulet with kenner, which is lovely as well,
that you spread on toast. And again people, you know,
I think we don't understand, you know, because we look
at something and doesn't look appealing or it's like people
eating their oyster for the first time, et cetera. It's
(12:40):
the texture. I think that puts them off more than
anything else.
Speaker 3 (12:43):
Yeah. Hey, l thanks so much for joining us.
Speaker 1 (12:46):
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