Where I Ate Last with Tony Astle: Boutary, Paris

This week Tony Astle was in France, sampling the dishes at Boutary in Paris.  

He sampled the Amuse Bouche, the Pomme de terre Boutary, the Homard a la Nage, the line-caught Turbot, and the Allegria Fresa, among other dishes. 

The overall meal was a mixed bag, with some excellent dishes and some that were less than stellar, Tony noting the Chef’s passion for strong orange zest flavours. 

LISTEN ABOVE 

 

Recipe of the Week: Coconut Cream Panna Cotta with Tamarillo 

Serves 5

Ingredients: Panna Cotta  

225 ml cream  
400 ml coconut cream 
110 g raw sugar  
2 tsp vanilla essence 
10 g powdered gelatine  
1 Tbsp boiling water 
salt, large pinch 

Ingredients: To Finish 

200 ml cream icing sugar, to taste 
vanilla essence, to taste 
2-3 tamarillo, blanched and peeled with sugar to sweeten 
mint leaves for garnish  

 

Method

1. Combine cream, coconut cream and sugar. Heat to dissolve the sugar. 

2. Remove from heat, add the vanilla essence. Allow to stand, cooling slightly, so the flavours can infuse. 

3. In a small bowl, dissolve the gelatine in the boiling water. Add to the cream mixture. 

4. Strain, and fill the 5 containers. 

5. Cover. Refrigerate for at least 3 hours (overnight is best). 

6. To plate, run a sharp paring knife around the inside edge of the mould. Invert onto your plate and shake with a horizontal motion until the panna cotta comes away from the mould. 

7. Whip the cream, sugar and vanilla, use to top the panna cotta. 

8. Rough chop the peeled tamarillo, add sugar and reduce until syrupy. Let cool.  

9. Add a spoonful of stewed tamarillo to each portion. 

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Episode Transcript

Speaker 1 (00:00):
Finding the hidden gyms at the hospitality scene where I
ate last with Tony Astell on Kerry Woodham Mornings, and
I'm very sorry. Fake news, fake news, fake news. You're
not in Paris at all. You're in Casis, Tony.

Speaker 2 (00:16):
Yes, we got out of We got out of Paris
and we're now done in Casis and having a beautiful
time down here. The weather is fantastic and the temperatures
are around the twenty five to twenty seven. It's just
very pleasant. And I'm doing a lot of cooking, going
to market. It's a fantastic little market down here, and
I went down and found all sorts of things I love.
So I'm just spending quite a lot of time in

(00:37):
the kitchen.

Speaker 1 (00:38):
Isn't it fun cooking and shopping in other parts of the.

Speaker 2 (00:41):
World, Well, it sure is, And of course it's we
do actually walk down to the village, but I ain't
walking up those hills coming back far too all that now,
especially when you start packing yourself up with the most
beautiful figs and the most I've got a leg of lamb. Anyway,
by the time we filled three or four bags, an

(01:02):
uber was very much required to get home. But anyway,
the fridge is now absolutely form. We've got friends from
New Zealand and from London coming to join us soon,
so I'm going to be full time cooking fabulous Now.

Speaker 1 (01:15):
It's on the coast, isn't it. So you have fabulous seafood,
wouldn't you.

Speaker 2 (01:19):
Yeah, well it's my We we went out today. Actually
I'll be reviewing that one another week or so. We
went to Marseilles today, which is just down the road
from it. It was a twenty minute or thirty minute
driving the car, and we had the most famous Bouya base,
which is all down here. There's a seafood everywhere around here.
And then we're going off to Nice in the weekend.

(01:41):
Just how we sniff around there and Central Pei. Anyway,
we're really having a lot of fun, I might say.

Speaker 1 (01:46):
It certainly sounds like it. Okay, So where did you
eat last other than your own table?

Speaker 2 (01:52):
Well, that was actually Paris and we before we came
down here, and that was a restaurant called Bouterie And
it's a twenty five mazarine in the Germaine Day Prey area,
so it's on the left bank. But we'd heard so
much about this restaurant, so we booked it before we
left New Zealand. Actually it's not a mission star, but

(02:12):
it's got so many praises that we and we looked
at the menu and we decided it should be asked.
But oh, dear, dear, dear, dear, dear dear, it was
a total disappointment. Oh really, And the service book at
the service was absolutely magnificent by every detail for a
minute you walked into the minute you left. But the
chef there, he's I don't know, just getting people are

(02:37):
getting trying to be too clever, the hero of the dish.
I mean, this was a lot of people have now
moved to sort of pescatarian type megis and going away
from meat, and so when you actually get a lot
of fish you expected to be absolutely perfectly cooked. Well,
one of them was a wild sea breeze bream and

(02:59):
it was said semi cooked. It was so overcooked it
sort of stuck in your throat, you know, when you
were finished. And but this this chef actually was mad
on orange zest. I mean I had this beef, which
is a black angus filet, which is expected and you
know it says slow cooked in a crust of purple mustard,

(03:22):
corn reduction, blood, orange concentrate, truffle. I mean, I got
a bit nervous because there's an awful lot of clashing flavors.
There were the orange concentrate it was, you know, like
when you just eat the piff of an orange. That's
how strong it was. And the steak was slow cooked,
I mean, blinking you would have missed it anyway, but

(03:44):
it was cooked very rare. But it was slow cooks
I presume sou v And it was so sour we
couldn't eat it, you know, And I thought.

Speaker 1 (03:55):
What happens? Where?

Speaker 2 (03:57):
What?

Speaker 1 (03:57):
How did the excellent waiting stuff respond when you see, no,
this isn't up to scratch.

Speaker 2 (04:02):
Well, they're quite interesting. They're so excellent, you know that
they don't actually argue with you. But you guys, they
could see that we were not really happy, but they
just didn't quite know how to handle it. I think
they probably thought we were being a bit weird. But
and I did have a pen and paper, so I
was writing as I went. So however, I mean, they

(04:25):
were just so nice. It was too hard to actually
say too many bad things about it, but we did.
It was in courses and look, then suddenly we got
this Pondertaier buttery and it was the most magnificent thing.
It was. It was a sweet butter mashed potatoes cherry
would smoked with lemon and fuse double cream. That was
the most beautiful mashed potato and had the most beautiful

(04:48):
great dab of caviat on top. And the Now that
was simple and it was absolutely beautiful. I mean you
had to give that four or five sticks because it
was so good. But that was a small, tiny little dish.

Speaker 1 (05:03):
No, you're expert, but wouldn't the wouldn't a double creamy
meshed potato and then the richness of the cavia jar.

Speaker 2 (05:12):
Well, I think what actually, I think what really actually
saved the whole thing was the lemon and fused. It
says double cream, but it sounds far more rich than
it was. Right, gotch okay, But the caveat was it
was actually just a beautiful combination. Then the the other
thing that really was the only decent thing on the
menu was the pastry chef take on cheese. Now, this

(05:34):
was a magnificent piece of piece of work, and it
was it's like a formed on beer, which is a
blue cheese and it was with celery and green cheese.
So now it was so it was almost like a sawbet.
It was absolutely magnificent. So you know, so this guy
was very clever. But on the other six, I mean,

(05:56):
then the desserts came and was molecular of this molecular
that it was. So it was just a bit sad really,
And of course in the wine matches, we decided to
let them do the wine. We'd go with their wine
matches and oh dear, dear, dear, dear dear, never again.
We'll just buy our own wine next time.

Speaker 1 (06:12):
But no appointing, is it? Because France has such a
reputation for being the center of culinary excellence that you
expect every single restaurant you're walking to. And how much
did you pay for this?

Speaker 2 (06:22):
You know, like I'm just going to tell you love.
It was for per head with the nine course and
the wine matches, the new hillend dollars was over five
hundred dollars ahead, so you know, so not only being
bankrupt for this poor old penchion it after listening to

(06:43):
Chris Hopkins, he might have to save me.

Speaker 1 (06:47):
Good lord, what could you do with five hundred dollars
when you had you know, somebody with a gentler hand.
Not so trying to be too clever, you know, just
letting the food and the flavors speak for itself. You
could do a lot with five hundred bucks.

Speaker 2 (07:00):
Couldn't you mind?

Speaker 1 (07:01):
You?

Speaker 2 (07:02):
I must, I must be fair here because New Zealand,
I mean, we are paying with New Zealand. Will We
called them Pacific besos, So you know, there's only fifty
something sent so it's a bit.

Speaker 1 (07:14):
Of an I know, but still okay. Your recipe of
the week, Tony the.

Speaker 2 (07:19):
Res is Coconut Queen pannacotta with stewed or caramelized tamarillos.
Now read the recipe. Look, this is a Panicottas are
very easy to make that you've just got to get
the consistency right. So don't over gallatina and tamarillos. You
just peel them sugar reducee and they're absolutely beautiful. Goes

(07:41):
perfectly with it perfect.

Speaker 1 (07:43):
Thank you. Enjoy the cooking, and I'm sure your guests
are going to thoroughly enjoy your meal. It sounds delicious.
The recipe is on our website from Tony it is
the News Talk CB dot co dot m ZB Kerry
Water Mornings