Dressed: The History of Fashion

Dressed: The History of Fashion

With over 7 billion people in the world, we all have one thing in common. Every day we all get dressed. Join Dressed as we explore the social and cultural histories behind the who, what, when of why we wear.... Show More

Episodes

March 4, 2021 37 min

What treasures lie in the Chicago History Museum's 50,000 piece dress and textile collection? From Abraham Lincoln's belongings to rare Parisian haute couture, Jessica Pushor is back to share some of the collection's highlights and surprises.

  • https://www.chicagohistory.org/collections/collection-contents/costume-and-textiles/
  • https://images.chicagohistory.org
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    Today, we are joined by "librarian of clothing" Jessica Pushor, collections manager of the Chicago History Museum's 50,000+ piece dress and textile collection. Pushor takes us behind the scenes and back in history in part one of a two-part episode on Chicago's fashionable past.

    https://www.chicagohistory.org/collections/collection-contents/costume-and-textiles/

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    Beloved by sirens of the stage and screen for her curve clinging creations, this week Nany Deihl joins us to discuss Zelda Wynn Valdes. We also bust a few myths about who designed the Playboy Bunny costume.

    RECOMMENDED READING:

  • Deihl, Nancy, ed. The Hidden History of American Fashion: Rediscovering 20th Century Women Designers. New York: Bloomsbury, 2018.
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    This week we celebrate the life and legacy of Mary Wilson (1944-2021), founding member of The Supremes and author of the book Supreme Glamour. Ms. Wilson joined us on season 3 to discuss her book, the evolution of the group's now iconic wardrobe and the integral role that fashion--and supreme glamour--played in the success of one of the greatest singing trios of all time.

    Recommended Reading:

  • Mary Wilson's Supreme Gl...
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    This week we speak with one of our favorite contemporary artists, Fabiola Jean-Louis, who rewrites history by photographing women of color in the historic silhouettes she painstakingly recreates from paper.

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    In the second installment of this episode, we speak about Bonnie's unique design lexicon and how her working methods blazed new territory in the fashion industry.

    RECOMMENDED READING:

  • Lake, Stephanie. Bonnie Cashin: Chic is Where You Find It. New York: Rizzoli, 2016.
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    From tight-lacing to sitting in a bustle, Christine is back to discuss the realities of wearing historical dress, smashing some popular fashion history myths in the process.

  • Christine's website: https://sewstine.com
  • Her YouTube channel: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UClE05Q8Hh939-3BY8p9MPoQ
  • Inclusion in the Costuming Community: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b3tdjRLBcdo
  • "Why Bridgerton is Problematic" panel: https...
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    Dr. Christine Millar of "Sewstine" joins us to discuss her relationship with historical costuming, a well deserved respite from her work as a doctor during COVID-19.

  • Christine's website: https://sewstine.com
  • Her YouTube channel: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UClE05Q8Hh939-3BY8p9MPoQ
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    In part two of our episode with Dr. Ariane Fennetaux, we discuss the intimate nature of pockets and what women historically carried in them.

    RECOMMENDED READING:

  • Burman, Barbara and Ariane Fennetaux. The Pocket: A History of Women's lives, 1660-1900. New Haven and London: Yale University Press, 2019.
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    Since day one of Dressed, our listeners have deluged us with requests for an episode on pockets. This week we deliver with a two part episode on the history of the pocket with Dr. Ariane Fennetaux.

    RECOMMENDED READING:

  • Burman, Barbara and Ariane Fennetaux. The Pocket: A History of Women's lives, 1660-1900. New Haven and London: Yale University Press, 2019.
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    January 21, 2021 32 min

    Per popular request, we take a deep dive into all things Bridgerton costumes for our first Fashion History Now of Season 4!

    Recommended Watching:

  • Costuming Drama https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9XQxFcRfWSc
  • Abby Cox https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fYuGg9CEY5Y
  • Lady Rebecca Fashions https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K-jr1KXMqvw
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    Fashion and fantasy merge in the work of designer Zaldy Goco who joins us to discuss his incredible thirty plus year career as a magic maker, transforming stars from Lady Gaga to RuPaul to performers of the Cirque du Soleil stage.

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    December 17, 2020 34 min

    Today, we continue our exploration of the century long love affair between fashion and the showgirl.

    Recommended reading and viewing:

  • Es-pranza Humphrey's article “Fashioning the Black Chorus Girl"
  • Elspeth Brown's Work! A Queer History of Modeling
  • Marcel Sauvage's Les Mémoires de Joséphine Baker
  • Baker's 1931 Casino de Paris performance: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=86HqDSY9l9A
  • Robin Givhan's The Battle of...
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    December 15, 2020 33 min

    With her towering headwear and sparkling body suit, the showgirl is an instantly recognizable, cross cultural pop icon. This two part episode explores her lesser known relationship to fashion, a love affair that extends back over one hundred years.

    Recommended Reading:

  • Andrea Stuart's Showgirls
  • Linda Mizejewski, Ziegfeld Girl: Image and Icon in Culture and Cinema
  • Jane Merrill’s The Showgirl Costume: An Illustrated History
  • Learn mo...
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    In part two of our episode with Tudor fashion scholar Eleri Lynn, we discuss sumptuary laws as well as grooming, hygiene and laundry practices at the Tudor court.


    RECOMMENDED READING:

  • Lynn, Eleri. Tudor Fashion. New Haven: Yale University Press, 2017
  • Lynn, Eleri. Tudor Textiles. New Haven: Yale University Press, 2020
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    Kirtles, codpieces and Henry the VIII, oh my! This week we discuss fashion at the Tudor court with Eleri Lynn, Curator of the Royal Ceremonial Dress Collection of the Historic Royal Palaces.


    RECOMMENDED READING:

  • Lynn, Eleri. Tudor Fashion. New Haven: Yale University Press, 2017
  • Lynn, Eleri. Tudor Textiles. New Haven: Yale University Press, 2020
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    We continue our conversation with street style photographer extraordinaire, Scott Schuman, and speak about his five books and fifteen-year career as The Sartorialist.

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    Street style photographer extraordinaire, Scott Schuman, joins us this week to speak about his five books and fifteen-year career as The Sartorialist.

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    November 26, 2020 35 min

    In this latest edition of Fashion History Now, we catch up on the latest fashion history and fashion history-making news from Harry Styles gender-bending cover to lip art to "the Incredible Whiteness of the Museum Fashion Collection."


    Further Reading:

  • https://www.vogue.com/article/dolly-parton-best-fashion-moments-life-in-looks
  • https://www.nytimes.com/2020/09/29/style/museums-fashion-racism.html
  • https://www.brooklynmuseum.org/e...
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