August 22, 2018 • 32 mins
The neon-red cherries of our childhood bear little resemblance to the original maraschino cherries. Anney and Lauren take a pitiless look at the science and history, including how the classic type is making a comeback.
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Episode Transcript
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Speaker 1 (00:09):
Hello, and welcome to food stuff. I'm Anyeres and I'm
Lauren voc Obam, and today we're talking about Marichino cherries.
Indeed the cherry on chuck, which was definitely my least
favorite part of dessert as a kid. Oh really, Oh
I loved him as a kid. Really, Yeah, I were
so red that the color is intriguing and we will
(00:30):
talk a lot about that. Um. I did just drive
mere hours ago. I was at the beach Lauren goodness,
and a popular drink in l A, which here stands
for Lawer, Alabama, is called the bush whacker, which is
essentially like a grown up milkshake, but not as sweet
as a mudslide. I like them a lot, okay, but
(00:51):
they always, except for my favorite one, most of them
come with a cherry, a bright Marichino cherry, and it's
probably the only time of year and counter them these ads. Yeah, yes,
that that is a true statement. I was going to say,
except we did get one on our dacory, but that
was not a Maraschino cherry. That's a different type of
cherry that we will be talking about as well. No,
(01:11):
that is also a Maraschino cherry. It's just a different,
different cherry exactly. Yes, there's there's some words that are
happening here, and I do call those neon red ones
like cancer cherries now, because I feel like the flavor
profile is mostly cancer. You bite into it and you're
like hands of cancer. Cancer forward. Here's cancer forward is
(01:35):
not something that I would like a product of mind
to be described as. But yeah, I'm probably not making
any friends in marketing, right, I don't think so. So
here we're going to start a quote with a quote
for this episode. Anybody that's poured a fair share of
drinks in their life would never complain about a Maraschino cherry.
It's like getting mad at soda water. Yeah, and this
(01:58):
is from the owner of ports Matador, Angelo Pucinelli. I'm
sorry if I mispronounce your name, and the kind of
One of the reasons we're talking about this is because
our our colleague Robert Lamb wrote an article a while
back and sent it to us. Yeah, he wrote an
article for Atlas Obscura or a gastro Obscura specifically called
how a vibrant factory made sweet usurped the original Marichino cherry.
(02:22):
So um. Yeah, thanks to him for the topic tip
um and also for the excellent transition with that title
to our favorite question Maraschino cherries. What are they? And
it's a pretty good question in this case it is
an excellent question. Well, a marichino cherry is at its
core and its pit, at its pitless core, a sweetened
(02:47):
preserved cherry with or without its stem and its pit.
But there are two essential forms of the marischino cherry,
the kind preserved in sweetened cherry juice or cherry liqueur,
and the kind preserved in sweet and other stuff. The
former tends to be a deep scarlet red in color
with like a rich bright flavor and an almost gummy
(03:08):
type chew like gummy candy sort of chee, And the
ladder tends to be a sort of day glow semi
transparent shade of red with a sweet sort of like
cherry lollipop flavor and and a little bit of a
crunch like an apple, not like a granola. Yeah. The
latter can also come in other colors, notably day glow
or shamrock green, but also yellow, orange, and blue, and
(03:30):
can come in flavors other than cherry. Really, there are
some of the blue ones are like blue raspberry flavored.
Oh my goodness, I did not know this. Of course
they are. Of course you typically find these bright red
fruits on top of sundays are garnishing certain cocktails, like
say a Manhattan and these days the that first less
(03:50):
science kind can also be found in cocktails. Again. Yes,
and how these two products that are quite different inexperience
um came to be known by the same name is
a matter of history. But for now, let's talk about
the science of how they happen. Yes, because there's a
(04:12):
lot of science involved. Yes, well, there's science in both versions,
because it's it's preservation. You're looking to preserve cherries so
that you know, bacteria and mold and stuff won't eat
them before you get a chance to um. And and
that's that's all science. But okay, let's let's start with
(04:34):
the kind that's made with cherry juice or or cherry
booze um. The type of cherries used for these is
typically a sour or tart cherries, any of several varieties
within the species Prunue sarassus, and there are two main
subgroups here, the nearly black maroon super tart Morello's, which
are pigmented red all the way through, and the lighter
(04:55):
or brighter red kind of medium tart Morele or Kent
cherries which of clear yellow, pinkish flesh. The classic sour
cherry used for Maraschino cherries is called the marasca. I
feel like I just said that in the most American
way possible. I know that that's more correct, but I
always say mascarat in my head because it's kind of close.
(05:19):
It's the letters are there, they are. It's definitely not
the mascar. It is not the mascarat cherry. That's a
different thing. The marasca um and it is a type
of morello and the cherries um for for for this
process are brined in assault solution for at least half
a day to again prevent microbial growth. Um then rinsed
really well and then soaked in a solution of sugar
(05:41):
and cherry juice packed, and the jar will be pasteurized
to inactivate any unwelcome microbes like close sturdy and botulinum
um that could make people sick down the line. Traditionally,
they were instead of being brined first, maybe just soaked
in alcohol because that will also pretty much keep bacteria
(06:02):
at bay. Yeah. Meanwhile, the Marischino cherries produced bio the
more modern preservation sciences UM are almost certainly made from
sweet cherries UM any of several varieties within the species
Prunus A v um. And here in the United States
it's probably the variety Royal Anne or Queen Anne cherries.
(06:24):
These are similar to to Ringier cherries if you've ever
seen those in your supermarket. They're kind of like golden
blush colored and way less acidic and more sugary a
k A sweeter than any of those cherries over in
the tart Pruness Sarassus species. And I didn't know that
these were two separate species technically, but I really know
very little about cherries are apparently UM. So okay, okay,
(06:49):
you again are going to want to brine these cherries,
but in this case you're going to do it in
two different preservative solutions. First a sodium sulfite solution and
then a sodium chlorite solution, and this will prevent most
yeast mold bacteria stuff like that from growing in the cherries,
but it will also leach out their color, giving you
(07:10):
after the first solution these pale yellow cherries with maybe
some brown from any bruising they've experienced. And then after
the second one, snowy white cherries, which weird, weird looking
can you imagine like having vanilla ice cream? And then
cherry we don't like it. And this process actually takes
(07:32):
a couple of weeks. You then pit the cherries and
wash out all the brine, which is such a thorough
process that it also removes basically anything that's water soluble
um like sugars and flavors. None of the brine should
be in the cherries by the time they get to you.
But still it's it's it's pretty nasty stuff, and disposing
of it is apparently a really huge environmental and economic
(07:54):
problem in the industry. Yeah, yeah, no good Um. So, okay,
you've got you've got this blank canvas of of of
cherry that it's it's still technically a cherry, I suppose,
but you need to add any kind of flavor or
color um back in. So yeah, a solution of sugar flavor,
(08:15):
coloring um and a few preservatives like a potassium sorbait
and sodam benzuate to prevent micropial growth and thus make
the final product shelf stable. Because we like things to
be shelf stable. We do we do you like that
this sugar and stuff solution actually has to be introduced
in like dilute stages, stepping up over a period of
(08:37):
days or even weeks to prevent the fruit from like
essentially exploding at like a at like a cellular level
and just mushing all to hell. So like a cherry bomb. Yeah.
Oh that's my revenge karaoke song by the way. Oh wow, Yeah,
so that's serious. Yeah. If I'm ever singing that and
you're around, somebody in the crowd has done something, it
(09:03):
probably doesn't remember. It's no ideam up there, because that's
how revenge schemes go. Let's be honest. I that's not
what they're known for. Oh well, but I but I
hate you know. I think that's probably the best way. Yeah.
I feel like I've accomplished, right, as long as you
feel good about it. Yeah, that's the most important part,
(09:25):
it is. Yeah. Um, after all that though, that the
cherries can be you know, packed and pasteurized. Yeah, and
something that never occurred to me. You can make your
own and now I really want to. Yeah. Yeah, if
you're if you're gonna you can use sweet cherries. But
I would personally recommend trying to find yourself some sour
(09:47):
cherries here in the States. They're they're kind of hard
to find fresh unless you live in the Pacific Northwest,
where most of them are grown. Um. But you can
find them canned or preferably a frozen and Montmorenci cherries
are maybe the most common around here. Um. And although
the brand Luxarto no longer preserves their cherries in liquor,
um it is it is easier you can skip that
(10:08):
brining step. There are lots of recipes online if you
want to do this kind of thing. Um. Technically, there
is a recipe up for the the modern science kind
to um. It was published in the Journal of Food
Science Education in two thousand nine. But yes, doing that
one involves a deeper familiarity with chemistry practices than I
(10:31):
am personal personally comfortable with. Yeah, that seems like a
too much work for something I'll probably just show off
one time and be like, look at this science cherry
I made. The end, Probably don't eat it. I wouldn't
(10:52):
And speaking of oh nutrition, yeah, um, obviously perhaps this
this will differ to depending on what type of marichino
cherry you're talking about. But the serving size for these
things is typically a single cherry yeah, um, you know,
which will run you about like ten calories in terms
(11:12):
of sugar content, um, and an insignificant amount of anything else.
Right to quote from that piece in in the in
the Journal of Food Science Education, Marischino cherries are not
intended to be a significant contributor to our nutritional well being.
Their role is to make food more appealing and by
doing so, stimulate food consumption. Hospital dietitians are aware of
(11:33):
this and will often place a machino cherry on a
grapefruit or fruit salad to take the patient's meal more
attractive and special. Oh well, that's nice. I mean they
are eye catching. They are. It's like if I had
a choice between a grapefruit with a cherry and one
without a cherry, I would go for the cherry. Sure.
(11:57):
I mean, I mean, I think I've definitely dard cocktails
before because I knew that there was going to be
a cherry in them. Really yeah, usually the sour cherry. Yeah,
those are good. Those are good. Well, these cherries have
quite an interesting history, and we will get into that,
(12:18):
but first we're going to take a quick break for
a word. From our sponsor, and we're back, thank you sponsor. Yes,
thank you so okay at some point in the way
back Having been imported from Central Asia. A few varieties
(12:41):
of sour cherries developed around Central Europe, and one famous
type was the Morasca cherry. It grew in the sandy
soil of modern day Croatia's Dalmatia coastal area, across the
Adriatic Sea from northern Italy. The Marischino cherry was meant
to be a replacement for those difficult, easily bruisible, hard
(13:02):
to transport cherries. And looking for ways to get around this,
some cherry farmers and a couple of different areas around
Europe like Croatia, got the idea to brine the cherries
and salt water and then soak them in liquor that
was made out of cherries. Around Germany this was called
kush faster and around Italy it was called Maraschino liquor.
All parts of the cherries to the pits, the stems,
(13:25):
the leaves and yeah. Maschino is a type of fruit
brandy made from crushing whole morasca cherries, letting them ferment,
and then distilling the whole mess and and the pits
give it part of it's it's nutty bitter flavor. Marasca,
by the way, is a shortening of amrasca, which in
turn comes from the Italian word for bitter tomorrow, which
(13:45):
traces back to the Latin for bitter, which I didn't
write down. So that's very useful. Also, i've heard that
that speaking of speaking of mispronouncing things and or not
writing them down. Um, I've heard that that it should
actually be Marasquino when you're talking about the liquor. Oh really,
but I'm not. I'm so sorry. I'm just not going
to say that it's going to I can't. I can't today.
(14:08):
I've got a lot. This is a battle we cannot win. Yeah,
I'm just gonna stick with Machino. Yeah. Um, I did
see that too, and I was in the article. It
was like, I think you'll be forgiven, And I said,
I hope so I knock on wood, I said, I
hope so to no one in particular standing alone at
(14:29):
my desk, But yes, so so on. One type of
of this of this cherry brandy essentially um flavored with
rose petals, called Rossolio Marischino, was extra popular. Um and
It had been in the region since medieval times and
was made by nuns in convents. Alright, nuns, yeah, okay.
(14:49):
In the eighteen twenties, that's when the lex Arto family, yes,
that lox Arto family, moved to Zadar, Croatia from Genova
and started making their version of Marischino liquor. By nineteen
o five, they were also using this to preserve cherries.
Cocktail chairs were really popular around this time too, but
around nineteen hundred they were replaced with olives. The cocktail
(15:14):
olive Um. An article from The Resting Daily illustrates this
quote and some of the swell uptown establishments. The cocktail
Alive is getting in its work and bids fair to
supplant the twosome cherry with the public. I've never really
put together that. The Yeah, they are pretty similar in shape,
and like, if you're hungry and you order a cocktail,
(15:35):
you're going to get one with their a cherry art
and all of I just never really put it together.
I always consider and all of martini to be basically
a snack. It does feel kind of snackish. Now ready
for transport, cherries made the trip across the ocean to
the United States, and by the end of the nineteenth
century this cherry started appearing around the country on ice
(15:58):
cream and custards in sal lids, where it was seen
as the difference between a so so salad and a
superior dish worthy of praise, kind of going back to
that grapefruit with the with the cherry or not, it
made a big difference. The real thing was expensive, a luxury,
but there was a cheaper version available from France that
(16:19):
was made with diyes and sugar, and recipes for preserved
cherries appeared before that in America, including in The Complete Housewife. Yeah.
And of course cocktails, it was a popular practice to
garnish the cocktail with fruit. And when this tender jarred,
long lasting, bright red fruit came around, bartenders rejoiced. Um.
(16:44):
It was a big deal, so big that in six
The New York Times wrote about the cherry quote, the
cherry and the seductive beverage is commonly looked upon as
an added temptation for the one who in vibes, and
that for women, prime reason for partake being of the
liquid Yeah. And it went on. A young woman engaged
(17:07):
a room at a fashionable hotel, and after ordering a
Manhattan cocktail, immediately sent for another. Soon she was ordering
them by the dozen. The management interfered and someone was
sent to expostulate with her, also to find out how
she had been able to consume so many cottails. She
was found surrounded by the full glasses, with the cherry gone.
(17:29):
I feel like that's probably apocryphal, but it is no
less delightful for that fact. I don't know why she
didn't just call it out and say, I feel like, hey,
can I get a jar of these cherries? Well, I
can't imagine order. I'll take twelve Manhattan's please. I just
(17:52):
don't think that would fly A mere five years later, though,
things changed for the marriage. You know, its reputation soured,
the culprit a market flooded with fakes. These fakes were
bad news. The red color was achieved with a cold
tar byproduct. The flavor was far sweeter, usually due to
(18:13):
artificial sweeteners, than the original cherries. The New York Times,
singing the praises years earlier, really changed their tune, describing
them as quote toughened and reduced to the semblance of
a formless, gummy lump by long imprisonment in a bottle,
that they were an abomination and their utter unfitness has
been manifested. We trust that it will disappear. That's it
(18:40):
really took a steep fall right there. Spoiler alert. Though
it did not disappear. I know we're all surprised. It
did go through two redefinitions. The first courtesy of the
Pure Food and Drug Act of nineteen or six, the
Act to find marichinos as quote bottled and marichino liquor
and not the compound of benzaldehyde, oil of almonds, and glucose,
(19:04):
but still imitations. Glore pushed the FDA to release a
statement clarifying the difference between a machino and an imitation.
But despite all of this, Americans couldn't seem to get
enough of them. New York Agricultural Experiment Station report attributed
it to quote the fashion of adding preserved cherries as
(19:25):
much for ornamentation as to give flavor to many drinks
and ices. Yeah, makes some more special, it does. And
this brings us to a section on something that changed
most things in the drink world here in the United States,
with ripples out everywhere else. Prohibition, yes, But first it
(19:45):
brings us to another quick break for a word from
our sponsor, and we're back. Thank you sponsor, Thank you. Yeah.
So prohibition this did in fact impact maraschino cherries um,
(20:07):
because it was decreed that they could no longer be
preserved in alcohol, just in case folks were getting drunk
off of them. I think more probably it was an
anxiety around the fact that children were possibly getting tipsy
off their Sunday topped with the marachino cherry. Oh what's
the world coming to these children with their alcohol soaked cherries? Oh? Gosh.
(20:32):
A scientist at Oregon State University, seeing like a cherry
signal in the sky, would not let the maraschino fade
out of existence. Nay. He used a non alcoholic solution
with calcium salts, which prevented mushiness but did leach some
white to brian them. And then they were pitted. And
(20:53):
once this process was completed, the cherries could be flavored
and died. Um and yeah not just ready there. For
a while, bright green and bright blue were pretty common
kind of a pad um. But this, this whole porrohibition story,
is it a myth, a conspiracy? Possibly? The Oregon State
University professor had been working on a way to preserve
(21:15):
the cherries that didn't require alcohol because the alcohol makes
them shrunken and wrinkly, and prohibition was just a happy coincidence. Maybe. Also,
the East Coast had a process for flavoring and coloring
Marichino cherries at the time. This os U professor Dr E. H.
Vaneguard specifically came up with the brining process. Um And
(21:36):
I read that there's a class at os U called
Marichino Cherry one oh two? Is this true? Listeners? Is
it true? I think it's true. I think it is.
It was certainly true for a while. Yes, I hope
it's still true. It sounds great, yes. Quote. The Marischino
Cherries serves as a vehicle from which faculty give their
disciplinary perspective, for example, the chemistry of the Marichino cherry
(22:00):
processing Unit, operations, microbiology and food safety, food law, sensory analysis,
product development, and so on. This laboratory lecture unit was
developed to provide reference background information, including instructions for making
Marischino cherries. That's beautiful. More and more I gotta get
in this class. Can I take it online? And to
(22:23):
this day, two of the biggest manufacturers of marichinos are
in Oregon. And if you're wondering why Oregon, because I was.
The state has a pretty good climate for growing cherries.
But again, they are tough to transport and temperamental, so
it makes sense researchers were working on ways to preserve
them Prohibition or not. Before this, Oregon Royal or Queen
(22:43):
Anne cherries and US cherries of general will looked down
upon as being inferior and mushier to their European counterparts.
With the threat of extinction over with, Marischinos made a
comeback during Prohibition um dotting suits and fruit cups to
bite the fact that they weren't really cherries anymore in
(23:04):
the strictest sense. Perhaps the only remnant of its cherry
ancestry was the cellulose, and this became what people expected
when a committee said about defining the Marischino in nineteen forty.
They concluded that the American consumer public wanted a cherry
that unnaturally read, unnaturally sweet, and unnaturally flavored with bitter
(23:28):
almond oile. Not only did the FDA agree, but in
nineteen seventy five, so did an association of Maraschino cherry producers,
saying there is no such thing as a natural ma
machino cherry. Huh yeah, but Americans didn't care. Indeed, this
unnatural thing was our desire. We wanted them in our
(23:50):
old fashions, in our whiskey sours, in our aspects, in
our salads. One recipe from nineteen for Betty Cracker Marischino
cake required sixteen where she knows it's not that much
for a whole cake. I think it was like, you know,
the pineapple slices in the middle. There was a rumor
(24:14):
that got started around this time that mare she knows
were soaked in formalde hyde. Um. Probably I'm mixed up
with benzalde hyde. And this is the same stuff in
dr pepper, which I do recognize that flavor. Note, yeah, yeah.
Ben benzelda Hyde is a compound that occurs in both
sweet and sour cherries, and also in almonds, which are
(24:34):
in the same genus as cherries, and they're not technically
a nut. There is seed and I had a whole
moment at my desk. I didn't know this, but okay, um,
So anyway, almonds are a richer source of benzealde hyde
than cherries. So that's why almondac extract is is used
(24:55):
as an artificial cherry flavoring. That's fascinating. Yeah, I we
really need to do an almond episode now, and it's
going to be kind of depressing, but I'm excited about it.
Depressing and exciting. Excellent. Machino liqueur was very popular around
this time to According to the nineteen nine the gentleman's
(25:17):
companion marrachino is so essential that no fairly equipped bar
can afford to be without it. I sort of agree. Meanwhile,
World War two would destroy the original Lusardo distillery and
take the lives of several family members, but one, Georgio Luxardo,
escaped to northern Italy with a recipe and a morasca
(25:39):
sapling after World War two and was able to restart
the business. In the nineteen sixties, the FDA banned the
dies that had been most commonly used for marachino cherries
since the nineteen twenties due to some cancer concerns. That
was read Red number four, but producers petitioned the f
d A. They said that the alternative Red number two
(26:02):
was too purply and not light stable enough. Um and
the FDA made an exception, what only for about six years,
but yeah, they were like, yeah, sure, Okay, this has
been proven to cause cancer, but it's just one cherry
under normal use conditions. No one's going to get bladder
cancer from a single cherry. Wow. And yeah, only only
(26:27):
for about six years. When a more acceptable alternative came along.
In one the FDA rescinded their exception. The DIE used
these days is red diet number forty, which is not
the one with all the cancer concerns around it, are
not the main one with the answer concerns around it.
The EU didn't permit the use of this die until Yeah.
(26:49):
As the neon bright shelf cocktail mixes of the eighties
fell out of style in the nineties, so too did
the marrash you know. At the same time, though, bartenders
wanted to find a suitable replacement, and they followed the
Marrochino family tree back to and the Luxardo cherries, the
product of the Luxarto family. To preserve their cherries, they
(27:12):
used beach sugar and cherry juice syrup. The result was
less neon red and more maroon, and the flavorless punch
you the mouth sweet, the more almondy um, and the
more nashural cherry became the preferred cherry of cocktails and bartenders,
and the demand has risen so much that the Luxartos
had to plant more trees, like five thousand more trees. Um.
(27:36):
A sort of re origin story that comes up a
lot credits New York City pegu Club bartender Audrey Saunders
with reintroducing America to the Luxarto cherry in two thousand four.
That Luxarto brand is still family operated. The seventh generation
currently works there. Wow, this making some some cherries, just
(27:57):
making some machiolcor and some Marichia cherries. Yeah, it's a
really interesting. It was an interesting episode to research. Yeah,
oh goodness. It really was one of those ones where
I was like, ohh I have oh, I have fifty
tabs open? How did this happen to me for something
that we kind of just encounter in very specific situations? Right, Well,
(28:25):
I'm going to go next time I'm at the store,
I'm going to see if I can find like a
blue or bright like a yellow one. Yeah. Yeah, they've
got yellow ones and orange ones. Yeah. I I don't
think I've ever seen them in the wild. I know
I've seen green and red because the green ones are
sometimes popular and like fruit cakes and stuff like that,
especially around Christmas time. Yeah, I would love to know
(28:48):
from listeners around the world. Is this a thing elsewhere?
I know it is in Europe, but which is curious? Yeah,
cocktail cherries? Is it a thing? Our Marischino cherry is
a thing? Specifically? Is anything thing? Is anything a thing?
(29:09):
It's getting deep it is Maybe we should move on.
I guess we should. Two listener male, Okay, that was
that was like a like a piano falling from a
I'm I'm always trying to like interpret your hand gestures.
I was thinking of the cherry like falling to the
(29:32):
bottom of the glass cherry bomb. Yeah, revenge, revenge song?
All right, Sarah wrote, I recently listened to your episode
on Cod. While I no longer lived there, I grew
up on Cape Cod as a child. I didn't have
much interest in the place I was living, so it
(29:52):
was great to hear some of the history. Also, the
town I grew up in is named Sandwich, and yes,
the town does have a police force. Every so often
a meme of a Sandwich police car will make their
rounds on the Internet and it makes me smile. It
makes us smile too. You can tour the Cape Cod
Potato chip factory for half. The best part of the
tour is getting a free little bag of chips at
(30:13):
the end. Yeah, sandwich, that's that's a thing of beauty.
Athena wrote. For the last year and a half, I've
been on the search for the perfect recipe for sour dough.
I've experimented with ratio seeds and types of flour. While
I've made some darn good loaves and discovered toasted sesame
(30:35):
seeds elevate sour dough to a whole new level of deliciousness,
I've never succeeded in creating flavor bursting crust. That is,
until your podcast you mentioned that bread was previously made
with beer instead of water. I sat on that idea
for a few months until last month, when I used
a can of beer from bird Song Brewing Company and
replaced half of the water with a tasty ale. What
(30:56):
a success. My boyfriend declared it my best bread yet,
and we devot both loaves in five days. My next
sourdy omission is to use beer and add toasted sesame seeds.
I can only imagine how delicious that will taste. While
I'm usually a fan of modern advancements, taking the beer
out of sour dough was clearly a failed idea put
forth by people who don't like good food. I want
(31:18):
some of this bread so much, right, I'm still craving
hot dogs from that episode. It's just a long list
we create for ourselves of food. Well, eventually, I'm gonna
have to get some of this I had hot dogs
I had for I'm still kind of craving fu though.
(31:38):
Oh I'm always craving for m M. Yeah. It was
pretty good. That's pretty good. Well, now I'm I'm gonna
have to add sour dough back onto the list. That's okay,
it's only fair. Yeah, sure. Thanks to both of them
for writing in. If you would like to write to
as you can. Our email is food Stuff at how
(31:59):
stuff Works at com where. Also on social media, you
can find us on Twitter and Facebook at food Stuff
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are coming your way.
Hello, and welcome to food stuff. I'm Anyeres and I'm
Lauren voc Obam, and today we're talking about Marichino cherries.
Indeed the cherry on chuck, which was definitely my least
favorite part of dessert as a kid. Oh really, Oh
I loved him as a kid. Really, Yeah, I were
so red that the color is intriguing and we will
(00:30):
talk a lot about that. Um. I did just drive
mere hours ago. I was at the beach Lauren goodness,
and a popular drink in l A, which here stands
for Lawer, Alabama, is called the bush whacker, which is
essentially like a grown up milkshake, but not as sweet
as a mudslide. I like them a lot, okay, but
(00:51):
they always, except for my favorite one, most of them
come with a cherry, a bright Marichino cherry, and it's
probably the only time of year and counter them these ads. Yeah, yes,
that that is a true statement. I was going to say,
except we did get one on our dacory, but that
was not a Maraschino cherry. That's a different type of
cherry that we will be talking about as well. No,
(01:11):
that is also a Maraschino cherry. It's just a different,
different cherry exactly. Yes, there's there's some words that are
happening here, and I do call those neon red ones
like cancer cherries now, because I feel like the flavor
profile is mostly cancer. You bite into it and you're
like hands of cancer. Cancer forward. Here's cancer forward is
(01:35):
not something that I would like a product of mind
to be described as. But yeah, I'm probably not making
any friends in marketing, right, I don't think so. So
here we're going to start a quote with a quote
for this episode. Anybody that's poured a fair share of
drinks in their life would never complain about a Maraschino cherry.
It's like getting mad at soda water. Yeah, and this
(01:58):
is from the owner of ports Matador, Angelo Pucinelli. I'm
sorry if I mispronounce your name, and the kind of
One of the reasons we're talking about this is because
our our colleague Robert Lamb wrote an article a while
back and sent it to us. Yeah, he wrote an
article for Atlas Obscura or a gastro Obscura specifically called
how a vibrant factory made sweet usurped the original Marichino cherry.
(02:22):
So um. Yeah, thanks to him for the topic tip
um and also for the excellent transition with that title
to our favorite question Maraschino cherries. What are they? And
it's a pretty good question in this case it is
an excellent question. Well, a marichino cherry is at its
core and its pit, at its pitless core, a sweetened
(02:47):
preserved cherry with or without its stem and its pit.
But there are two essential forms of the marischino cherry,
the kind preserved in sweetened cherry juice or cherry liqueur,
and the kind preserved in sweet and other stuff. The
former tends to be a deep scarlet red in color
with like a rich bright flavor and an almost gummy
(03:08):
type chew like gummy candy sort of chee, And the
ladder tends to be a sort of day glow semi
transparent shade of red with a sweet sort of like
cherry lollipop flavor and and a little bit of a
crunch like an apple, not like a granola. Yeah. The
latter can also come in other colors, notably day glow
or shamrock green, but also yellow, orange, and blue, and
(03:30):
can come in flavors other than cherry. Really, there are
some of the blue ones are like blue raspberry flavored.
Oh my goodness, I did not know this. Of course
they are. Of course you typically find these bright red
fruits on top of sundays are garnishing certain cocktails, like
say a Manhattan and these days the that first less
(03:50):
science kind can also be found in cocktails. Again. Yes,
and how these two products that are quite different inexperience
um came to be known by the same name is
a matter of history. But for now, let's talk about
the science of how they happen. Yes, because there's a
(04:12):
lot of science involved. Yes, well, there's science in both versions,
because it's it's preservation. You're looking to preserve cherries so
that you know, bacteria and mold and stuff won't eat
them before you get a chance to um. And and
that's that's all science. But okay, let's let's start with
(04:34):
the kind that's made with cherry juice or or cherry
booze um. The type of cherries used for these is
typically a sour or tart cherries, any of several varieties
within the species Prunue sarassus, and there are two main
subgroups here, the nearly black maroon super tart Morello's, which
are pigmented red all the way through, and the lighter
(04:55):
or brighter red kind of medium tart Morele or Kent
cherries which of clear yellow, pinkish flesh. The classic sour
cherry used for Maraschino cherries is called the marasca. I
feel like I just said that in the most American
way possible. I know that that's more correct, but I
always say mascarat in my head because it's kind of close.
(05:19):
It's the letters are there, they are. It's definitely not
the mascar. It is not the mascarat cherry. That's a
different thing. The marasca um and it is a type
of morello and the cherries um for for for this
process are brined in assault solution for at least half
a day to again prevent microbial growth. Um then rinsed
really well and then soaked in a solution of sugar
(05:41):
and cherry juice packed, and the jar will be pasteurized
to inactivate any unwelcome microbes like close sturdy and botulinum
um that could make people sick down the line. Traditionally,
they were instead of being brined first, maybe just soaked
in alcohol because that will also pretty much keep bacteria
(06:02):
at bay. Yeah. Meanwhile, the Marischino cherries produced bio the
more modern preservation sciences UM are almost certainly made from
sweet cherries UM any of several varieties within the species
Prunus A v um. And here in the United States
it's probably the variety Royal Anne or Queen Anne cherries.
(06:24):
These are similar to to Ringier cherries if you've ever
seen those in your supermarket. They're kind of like golden
blush colored and way less acidic and more sugary a
k A sweeter than any of those cherries over in
the tart Pruness Sarassus species. And I didn't know that
these were two separate species technically, but I really know
very little about cherries are apparently UM. So okay, okay,
(06:49):
you again are going to want to brine these cherries,
but in this case you're going to do it in
two different preservative solutions. First a sodium sulfite solution and
then a sodium chlorite solution, and this will prevent most
yeast mold bacteria stuff like that from growing in the cherries,
but it will also leach out their color, giving you
(07:10):
after the first solution these pale yellow cherries with maybe
some brown from any bruising they've experienced. And then after
the second one, snowy white cherries, which weird, weird looking
can you imagine like having vanilla ice cream? And then
cherry we don't like it. And this process actually takes
(07:32):
a couple of weeks. You then pit the cherries and
wash out all the brine, which is such a thorough
process that it also removes basically anything that's water soluble
um like sugars and flavors. None of the brine should
be in the cherries by the time they get to you.
But still it's it's it's pretty nasty stuff, and disposing
of it is apparently a really huge environmental and economic
(07:54):
problem in the industry. Yeah, yeah, no good Um. So, okay,
you've got you've got this blank canvas of of of
cherry that it's it's still technically a cherry, I suppose,
but you need to add any kind of flavor or
color um back in. So yeah, a solution of sugar flavor,
(08:15):
coloring um and a few preservatives like a potassium sorbait
and sodam benzuate to prevent micropial growth and thus make
the final product shelf stable. Because we like things to
be shelf stable. We do we do you like that
this sugar and stuff solution actually has to be introduced
in like dilute stages, stepping up over a period of
(08:37):
days or even weeks to prevent the fruit from like
essentially exploding at like a at like a cellular level
and just mushing all to hell. So like a cherry bomb. Yeah.
Oh that's my revenge karaoke song by the way. Oh wow, Yeah,
so that's serious. Yeah. If I'm ever singing that and
you're around, somebody in the crowd has done something, it
(09:03):
probably doesn't remember. It's no ideam up there, because that's
how revenge schemes go. Let's be honest. I that's not
what they're known for. Oh well, but I but I
hate you know. I think that's probably the best way. Yeah.
I feel like I've accomplished, right, as long as you
feel good about it. Yeah, that's the most important part,
(09:25):
it is. Yeah. Um, after all that though, that the
cherries can be you know, packed and pasteurized. Yeah, and
something that never occurred to me. You can make your
own and now I really want to. Yeah. Yeah, if
you're if you're gonna you can use sweet cherries. But
I would personally recommend trying to find yourself some sour
(09:47):
cherries here in the States. They're they're kind of hard
to find fresh unless you live in the Pacific Northwest,
where most of them are grown. Um. But you can
find them canned or preferably a frozen and Montmorenci cherries
are maybe the most common around here. Um. And although
the brand Luxarto no longer preserves their cherries in liquor,
um it is it is easier you can skip that
(10:08):
brining step. There are lots of recipes online if you
want to do this kind of thing. Um. Technically, there
is a recipe up for the the modern science kind
to um. It was published in the Journal of Food
Science Education in two thousand nine. But yes, doing that
one involves a deeper familiarity with chemistry practices than I
(10:31):
am personal personally comfortable with. Yeah, that seems like a
too much work for something I'll probably just show off
one time and be like, look at this science cherry
I made. The end, Probably don't eat it. I wouldn't
(10:52):
And speaking of oh nutrition, yeah, um, obviously perhaps this
this will differ to depending on what type of marichino
cherry you're talking about. But the serving size for these
things is typically a single cherry yeah, um, you know,
which will run you about like ten calories in terms
(11:12):
of sugar content, um, and an insignificant amount of anything else.
Right to quote from that piece in in the in
the Journal of Food Science Education, Marischino cherries are not
intended to be a significant contributor to our nutritional well being.
Their role is to make food more appealing and by
doing so, stimulate food consumption. Hospital dietitians are aware of
(11:33):
this and will often place a machino cherry on a
grapefruit or fruit salad to take the patient's meal more
attractive and special. Oh well, that's nice. I mean they
are eye catching. They are. It's like if I had
a choice between a grapefruit with a cherry and one
without a cherry, I would go for the cherry. Sure.
(11:57):
I mean, I mean, I think I've definitely dard cocktails
before because I knew that there was going to be
a cherry in them. Really yeah, usually the sour cherry. Yeah,
those are good. Those are good. Well, these cherries have
quite an interesting history, and we will get into that,
(12:18):
but first we're going to take a quick break for
a word. From our sponsor, and we're back, thank you sponsor. Yes,
thank you so okay at some point in the way
back Having been imported from Central Asia. A few varieties
(12:41):
of sour cherries developed around Central Europe, and one famous
type was the Morasca cherry. It grew in the sandy
soil of modern day Croatia's Dalmatia coastal area, across the
Adriatic Sea from northern Italy. The Marischino cherry was meant
to be a replacement for those difficult, easily bruisible, hard
(13:02):
to transport cherries. And looking for ways to get around this,
some cherry farmers and a couple of different areas around
Europe like Croatia, got the idea to brine the cherries
and salt water and then soak them in liquor that
was made out of cherries. Around Germany this was called
kush faster and around Italy it was called Maraschino liquor.
All parts of the cherries to the pits, the stems,
(13:25):
the leaves and yeah. Maschino is a type of fruit
brandy made from crushing whole morasca cherries, letting them ferment,
and then distilling the whole mess and and the pits
give it part of it's it's nutty bitter flavor. Marasca,
by the way, is a shortening of amrasca, which in
turn comes from the Italian word for bitter tomorrow, which
(13:45):
traces back to the Latin for bitter, which I didn't
write down. So that's very useful. Also, i've heard that
that speaking of speaking of mispronouncing things and or not
writing them down. Um, I've heard that that it should
actually be Marasquino when you're talking about the liquor. Oh really,
but I'm not. I'm so sorry. I'm just not going
to say that it's going to I can't. I can't today.
(14:08):
I've got a lot. This is a battle we cannot win. Yeah,
I'm just gonna stick with Machino. Yeah. Um, I did
see that too, and I was in the article. It
was like, I think you'll be forgiven, And I said,
I hope so I knock on wood, I said, I
hope so to no one in particular standing alone at
(14:29):
my desk, But yes, so so on. One type of
of this of this cherry brandy essentially um flavored with
rose petals, called Rossolio Marischino, was extra popular. Um and
It had been in the region since medieval times and
was made by nuns in convents. Alright, nuns, yeah, okay.
(14:49):
In the eighteen twenties, that's when the lex Arto family, yes,
that lox Arto family, moved to Zadar, Croatia from Genova
and started making their version of Marischino liquor. By nineteen
o five, they were also using this to preserve cherries.
Cocktail chairs were really popular around this time too, but
around nineteen hundred they were replaced with olives. The cocktail
(15:14):
olive Um. An article from The Resting Daily illustrates this
quote and some of the swell uptown establishments. The cocktail
Alive is getting in its work and bids fair to
supplant the twosome cherry with the public. I've never really
put together that. The Yeah, they are pretty similar in shape,
and like, if you're hungry and you order a cocktail,
(15:35):
you're going to get one with their a cherry art
and all of I just never really put it together.
I always consider and all of martini to be basically
a snack. It does feel kind of snackish. Now ready
for transport, cherries made the trip across the ocean to
the United States, and by the end of the nineteenth
century this cherry started appearing around the country on ice
(15:58):
cream and custards in sal lids, where it was seen
as the difference between a so so salad and a
superior dish worthy of praise, kind of going back to
that grapefruit with the with the cherry or not, it
made a big difference. The real thing was expensive, a luxury,
but there was a cheaper version available from France that
(16:19):
was made with diyes and sugar, and recipes for preserved
cherries appeared before that in America, including in The Complete Housewife. Yeah.
And of course cocktails, it was a popular practice to
garnish the cocktail with fruit. And when this tender jarred,
long lasting, bright red fruit came around, bartenders rejoiced. Um.
(16:44):
It was a big deal, so big that in six
The New York Times wrote about the cherry quote, the
cherry and the seductive beverage is commonly looked upon as
an added temptation for the one who in vibes, and
that for women, prime reason for partake being of the
liquid Yeah. And it went on. A young woman engaged
(17:07):
a room at a fashionable hotel, and after ordering a
Manhattan cocktail, immediately sent for another. Soon she was ordering
them by the dozen. The management interfered and someone was
sent to expostulate with her, also to find out how
she had been able to consume so many cottails. She
was found surrounded by the full glasses, with the cherry gone.
(17:29):
I feel like that's probably apocryphal, but it is no
less delightful for that fact. I don't know why she
didn't just call it out and say, I feel like, hey,
can I get a jar of these cherries? Well, I
can't imagine order. I'll take twelve Manhattan's please. I just
(17:52):
don't think that would fly A mere five years later, though,
things changed for the marriage. You know, its reputation soured,
the culprit a market flooded with fakes. These fakes were
bad news. The red color was achieved with a cold
tar byproduct. The flavor was far sweeter, usually due to
(18:13):
artificial sweeteners, than the original cherries. The New York Times,
singing the praises years earlier, really changed their tune, describing
them as quote toughened and reduced to the semblance of
a formless, gummy lump by long imprisonment in a bottle,
that they were an abomination and their utter unfitness has
been manifested. We trust that it will disappear. That's it
(18:40):
really took a steep fall right there. Spoiler alert. Though
it did not disappear. I know we're all surprised. It
did go through two redefinitions. The first courtesy of the
Pure Food and Drug Act of nineteen or six, the
Act to find marichinos as quote bottled and marichino liquor
and not the compound of benzaldehyde, oil of almonds, and glucose,
(19:04):
but still imitations. Glore pushed the FDA to release a
statement clarifying the difference between a machino and an imitation.
But despite all of this, Americans couldn't seem to get
enough of them. New York Agricultural Experiment Station report attributed
it to quote the fashion of adding preserved cherries as
(19:25):
much for ornamentation as to give flavor to many drinks
and ices. Yeah, makes some more special, it does. And
this brings us to a section on something that changed
most things in the drink world here in the United States,
with ripples out everywhere else. Prohibition, yes, But first it
(19:45):
brings us to another quick break for a word from
our sponsor, and we're back. Thank you sponsor, Thank you. Yeah.
So prohibition this did in fact impact maraschino cherries um,
(20:07):
because it was decreed that they could no longer be
preserved in alcohol, just in case folks were getting drunk
off of them. I think more probably it was an
anxiety around the fact that children were possibly getting tipsy
off their Sunday topped with the marachino cherry. Oh what's
the world coming to these children with their alcohol soaked cherries? Oh? Gosh.
(20:32):
A scientist at Oregon State University, seeing like a cherry
signal in the sky, would not let the maraschino fade
out of existence. Nay. He used a non alcoholic solution
with calcium salts, which prevented mushiness but did leach some
white to brian them. And then they were pitted. And
(20:53):
once this process was completed, the cherries could be flavored
and died. Um and yeah not just ready there. For
a while, bright green and bright blue were pretty common
kind of a pad um. But this, this whole porrohibition story,
is it a myth, a conspiracy? Possibly? The Oregon State
University professor had been working on a way to preserve
(21:15):
the cherries that didn't require alcohol because the alcohol makes
them shrunken and wrinkly, and prohibition was just a happy coincidence. Maybe. Also,
the East Coast had a process for flavoring and coloring
Marichino cherries at the time. This os U professor Dr E. H.
Vaneguard specifically came up with the brining process. Um And
(21:36):
I read that there's a class at os U called
Marichino Cherry one oh two? Is this true? Listeners? Is
it true? I think it's true. I think it is.
It was certainly true for a while. Yes, I hope
it's still true. It sounds great, yes. Quote. The Marischino
Cherries serves as a vehicle from which faculty give their
disciplinary perspective, for example, the chemistry of the Marichino cherry
(22:00):
processing Unit, operations, microbiology and food safety, food law, sensory analysis,
product development, and so on. This laboratory lecture unit was
developed to provide reference background information, including instructions for making
Marischino cherries. That's beautiful. More and more I gotta get
in this class. Can I take it online? And to
(22:23):
this day, two of the biggest manufacturers of marichinos are
in Oregon. And if you're wondering why Oregon, because I was.
The state has a pretty good climate for growing cherries.
But again, they are tough to transport and temperamental, so
it makes sense researchers were working on ways to preserve
them Prohibition or not. Before this, Oregon Royal or Queen
(22:43):
Anne cherries and US cherries of general will looked down
upon as being inferior and mushier to their European counterparts.
With the threat of extinction over with, Marischinos made a
comeback during Prohibition um dotting suits and fruit cups to
bite the fact that they weren't really cherries anymore in
(23:04):
the strictest sense. Perhaps the only remnant of its cherry
ancestry was the cellulose, and this became what people expected
when a committee said about defining the Marischino in nineteen forty.
They concluded that the American consumer public wanted a cherry
that unnaturally read, unnaturally sweet, and unnaturally flavored with bitter
(23:28):
almond oile. Not only did the FDA agree, but in
nineteen seventy five, so did an association of Maraschino cherry producers,
saying there is no such thing as a natural ma
machino cherry. Huh yeah, but Americans didn't care. Indeed, this
unnatural thing was our desire. We wanted them in our
(23:50):
old fashions, in our whiskey sours, in our aspects, in
our salads. One recipe from nineteen for Betty Cracker Marischino
cake required sixteen where she knows it's not that much
for a whole cake. I think it was like, you know,
the pineapple slices in the middle. There was a rumor
(24:14):
that got started around this time that mare she knows
were soaked in formalde hyde. Um. Probably I'm mixed up
with benzalde hyde. And this is the same stuff in
dr pepper, which I do recognize that flavor. Note, yeah, yeah.
Ben benzelda Hyde is a compound that occurs in both
sweet and sour cherries, and also in almonds, which are
(24:34):
in the same genus as cherries, and they're not technically
a nut. There is seed and I had a whole
moment at my desk. I didn't know this, but okay, um,
So anyway, almonds are a richer source of benzealde hyde
than cherries. So that's why almondac extract is is used
(24:55):
as an artificial cherry flavoring. That's fascinating. Yeah, I we
really need to do an almond episode now, and it's
going to be kind of depressing, but I'm excited about it.
Depressing and exciting. Excellent. Machino liqueur was very popular around
this time to According to the nineteen nine the gentleman's
(25:17):
companion marrachino is so essential that no fairly equipped bar
can afford to be without it. I sort of agree. Meanwhile,
World War two would destroy the original Lusardo distillery and
take the lives of several family members, but one, Georgio Luxardo,
escaped to northern Italy with a recipe and a morasca
(25:39):
sapling after World War two and was able to restart
the business. In the nineteen sixties, the FDA banned the
dies that had been most commonly used for marachino cherries
since the nineteen twenties due to some cancer concerns. That
was read Red number four, but producers petitioned the f
d A. They said that the alternative Red number two
(26:02):
was too purply and not light stable enough. Um and
the FDA made an exception, what only for about six years,
but yeah, they were like, yeah, sure, Okay, this has
been proven to cause cancer, but it's just one cherry
under normal use conditions. No one's going to get bladder
cancer from a single cherry. Wow. And yeah, only only
(26:27):
for about six years. When a more acceptable alternative came along.
In one the FDA rescinded their exception. The DIE used
these days is red diet number forty, which is not
the one with all the cancer concerns around it, are
not the main one with the answer concerns around it.
The EU didn't permit the use of this die until Yeah.
(26:49):
As the neon bright shelf cocktail mixes of the eighties
fell out of style in the nineties, so too did
the marrash you know. At the same time, though, bartenders
wanted to find a suitable replacement, and they followed the
Marrochino family tree back to and the Luxardo cherries, the
product of the Luxarto family. To preserve their cherries, they
(27:12):
used beach sugar and cherry juice syrup. The result was
less neon red and more maroon, and the flavorless punch
you the mouth sweet, the more almondy um, and the
more nashural cherry became the preferred cherry of cocktails and bartenders,
and the demand has risen so much that the Luxartos
had to plant more trees, like five thousand more trees. Um.
(27:36):
A sort of re origin story that comes up a
lot credits New York City pegu Club bartender Audrey Saunders
with reintroducing America to the Luxarto cherry in two thousand four.
That Luxarto brand is still family operated. The seventh generation
currently works there. Wow, this making some some cherries, just
(27:57):
making some machiolcor and some Marichia cherries. Yeah, it's a
really interesting. It was an interesting episode to research. Yeah,
oh goodness. It really was one of those ones where
I was like, ohh I have oh, I have fifty
tabs open? How did this happen to me for something
that we kind of just encounter in very specific situations? Right, Well,
(28:25):
I'm going to go next time I'm at the store,
I'm going to see if I can find like a
blue or bright like a yellow one. Yeah. Yeah, they've
got yellow ones and orange ones. Yeah. I I don't
think I've ever seen them in the wild. I know
I've seen green and red because the green ones are
sometimes popular and like fruit cakes and stuff like that,
especially around Christmas time. Yeah, I would love to know
(28:48):
from listeners around the world. Is this a thing elsewhere?
I know it is in Europe, but which is curious? Yeah,
cocktail cherries? Is it a thing? Our Marischino cherry is
a thing? Specifically? Is anything thing? Is anything a thing?
(29:09):
It's getting deep it is Maybe we should move on.
I guess we should. Two listener male, Okay, that was
that was like a like a piano falling from a
I'm I'm always trying to like interpret your hand gestures.
I was thinking of the cherry like falling to the
(29:32):
bottom of the glass cherry bomb. Yeah, revenge, revenge song?
All right, Sarah wrote, I recently listened to your episode
on Cod. While I no longer lived there, I grew
up on Cape Cod as a child. I didn't have
much interest in the place I was living, so it
(29:52):
was great to hear some of the history. Also, the
town I grew up in is named Sandwich, and yes,
the town does have a police force. Every so often
a meme of a Sandwich police car will make their
rounds on the Internet and it makes me smile. It
makes us smile too. You can tour the Cape Cod
Potato chip factory for half. The best part of the
tour is getting a free little bag of chips at
(30:13):
the end. Yeah, sandwich, that's that's a thing of beauty.
Athena wrote. For the last year and a half, I've
been on the search for the perfect recipe for sour dough.
I've experimented with ratio seeds and types of flour. While
I've made some darn good loaves and discovered toasted sesame
(30:35):
seeds elevate sour dough to a whole new level of deliciousness,
I've never succeeded in creating flavor bursting crust. That is,
until your podcast you mentioned that bread was previously made
with beer instead of water. I sat on that idea
for a few months until last month, when I used
a can of beer from bird Song Brewing Company and
replaced half of the water with a tasty ale. What
(30:56):
a success. My boyfriend declared it my best bread yet,
and we devot both loaves in five days. My next
sourdy omission is to use beer and add toasted sesame seeds.
I can only imagine how delicious that will taste. While
I'm usually a fan of modern advancements, taking the beer
out of sour dough was clearly a failed idea put
forth by people who don't like good food. I want
(31:18):
some of this bread so much, right, I'm still craving
hot dogs from that episode. It's just a long list
we create for ourselves of food. Well, eventually, I'm gonna
have to get some of this I had hot dogs
I had for I'm still kind of craving fu though.
(31:38):
Oh I'm always craving for m M. Yeah. It was
pretty good. That's pretty good. Well, now I'm I'm gonna
have to add sour dough back onto the list. That's okay,
it's only fair. Yeah, sure. Thanks to both of them
for writing in. If you would like to write to
as you can. Our email is food Stuff at how
(31:59):
stuff Works at com where. Also on social media, you
can find us on Twitter and Facebook at food Stuff
hs W and also on Instagram at food Stuff. We
do hope to hear from you. Thank you as always
to our super producer Dylan Fagan. Thank you to you
for listening, and we hope that lots more good things
are coming your way.
Savor News
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Anney Reese
Lauren Vogelbaum
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