Episode Transcript
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Speaker 1 (00:09):
Hello, and welcome to saver, a production of iHeartRadio. I'm
Lauren Wolgeban, standing in solo today for my co host
Annie Reese. So what happened was we're heading into dragon
Con weekend here in Atlanta, and in preparation for that,
because Annie Bless still has the energy and wherewithal to
attend every year, we wanted to do a classic episode.
(00:31):
We prepared one for you about Nutmeg, and then today,
right before we published it, it occurred to me that
we already classiced that episode like nine months ago, in
December of twenty twenty four. So I've put together this
for you instead. Today we have a classic episode for
you about Isabella Beaton. She is the author of a
(00:56):
wildly influential English cookbook of the Victorian air Barah called
Missus Beaton's Book of Household Management. We originally published this
one in January of twenty nineteen. And why was this
one on your mind? Annie might ask, if she were
not at Dragon Con. I was thinking about all of
the glorious period and very anachronistic costumes that occur there,
(01:21):
and so I was thinking, yeah, let's spend a little
bit of time in the Victorian era today, So yes,
without further ado, I'm going to let former Annie and
Lauren take it away. Hello, and welcome to Savor. I'm
(01:49):
Annie Reach and I'm Lauren Vogelbaum. And today we're doing
another cookbook author profile, Yes.
Speaker 2 (01:55):
Profiles and deliciousness as I like to as I've coined
it on Isabella Beaten.
Speaker 3 (02:02):
And it has been a long.
Speaker 2 (02:03):
Time since we've done a specific person, Yes, seemed episode.
Speaker 1 (02:08):
Yeah, previously we have talked about they.
Speaker 2 (02:11):
Have names, Julia Child and James Beard. There you go, Yes,
those are their names. And this is a person I
had previously never heard of, but a couple of you
have requested her and it seems like she was a
pretty big deal. Uh.
Speaker 1 (02:26):
Yes, I think that anyone who has lived in the
UK for any amount of time is thoroughly familiar with
the character of her at any rate. While I was
researching her, I opened my conversations with people who were like,
what are you researching? And I was like, how familiar
are you with UK cookbooks?
Speaker 2 (02:45):
Perhaps missus Beaten more people might recognize that. Yeah, but
to our question, yes, not what is it?
Speaker 3 (02:57):
Who is it?
Speaker 1 (03:00):
Well? Isabella Beaton was a Victorian English era author whose
work largely concerned household and kitchen management and included a
lot of recipes. Her magnum opus was the Book of
Household Management. This was a thousand plus page tome quote
comprising information for the mistress, housekeeper, cook, kitchen maid, butler, footman, coachman, valet,
(03:23):
upper and under housemaids, ladies, maid, made of all work,
laundry made, nurse and nurse maid, monthly, wet and sick nurses,
et cetera, et cetera. Also SAMs Harry Medical and Legal
memoranda semi colon with a history of the origin, properties
and uses of all things connected with home life and comfort.
Speaker 3 (03:41):
So it covered a lot.
Speaker 1 (03:42):
That was the subtitle of the book. It was like
on the front page, I love it. Yes, this is
a book about how to be a middle class early
Victorian early to mid Victorian era woman, written by someone
who was actually very modern and fashionable in her time,
and as such it's just fabulously telling about what life
(04:03):
was like for a few segments of folks back then,
middle class women certainly, but also people working as servants
in that sort of household, and various folks involved in
food production and both colonizers and the colonized in England's Empire.
As the recipes included some two thousand recipes. By the way,
they show how food ways were changing in this era
(04:26):
of industrialization and the rapidly expanding technology and travel and
city living that went with all of that. So what
just a little bit. It's a really fascinating thing to
flip through.
Speaker 2 (04:41):
Oh yeah, yeah, it's very illuminating as to the time
and the concerns of that Time's. Speaking of time, let's
go back in history, talk about Isabella Meton's history. Yes,
she was born Isabella Mary Mason in London on March twelfth,
eighteenth thirty six, as the daughter of Benjamin Mason and
(05:03):
Elizabeth Jerrem.
Speaker 3 (05:04):
Her father died when she.
Speaker 2 (05:05):
Was young, and her mother remarried a widower named Henry Dorling,
who had four children from his previous marriage. Dorling was
the clerk of a race course and they moved to Epsom, Surrey.
Speaker 3 (05:20):
For what was expected.
Speaker 2 (05:21):
And the norm at the time, Isabella was well educated
compared to other women. She studied music and language in Heidelberg,
Germany from eighteen fifty one to eighteen fifty three, and
during those two years she mastered the piano and took
some lessons from a pastry maker and confectioner. She participated
in fitting sessions with the London dressmaker. She was getting
(05:42):
all kinds of experience. She was also the oldest of
twenty one siblings.
Speaker 3 (05:55):
It's more than two. I can't understand it either.
Speaker 2 (05:57):
Goode if I had trouble with my two siblings and
this gave her a lot of what would become relevant
experience in household management, I'm sure it did right. She
got her start writing in eighteen fifty six after marrying
a rich publisher by the name of Samuel Beaton. From
the things I read, he was a super ambitious, very
(06:20):
high strung individual. This is like old timey gossip, but
I saw that in a couple of places a description
of him. He did not get along with Isabella's stepfather,
Henry Dorling, who by this time was involved in the
nascent government of Surrey, a printing business, and the National
Derby Festival, because of their rocky relationship. The rocky relationship
(06:44):
between her stepfather and Samuel, their courtship Samuel and Asbella's
courtship took place mostly be a letter.
Speaker 1 (06:53):
Sam owned and edited, among other publications, a monthly periodical
called The English Woman's Domestic Magazine, and Isabella started out
her work for the magazine translating novels from French to
English for serialization. Isabella started writing a column for it
in eighteen fifty seven called Cookery, Pickling and Preserving, and
(07:13):
apparently her first recipe was not a success. She either
forgot to mention how much flour is supposed to go in,
or she like left out the fact that you should
probably add eggs. Something was wrong with it. And her
good sponge cake was not good and she printed an
apology about it in the next issue.
Speaker 3 (07:32):
Ooh, an apology for a bad sponge cake. Yeah.
Speaker 2 (07:36):
If this was a comic book, I bet this is
like the flashback scene to how she got her start,
Like never again, What can I do to prevent this
from ever happening again?
Speaker 3 (07:46):
Yeah?
Speaker 1 (07:47):
By all accounts, like, she wasn't really fond of or
good at cooking, but she was great at writing and
the column became very popular among the magazine's readers.
Speaker 2 (07:58):
Off of that success, her husband got the idea for
a men's only magazine called The Boy's Own Magazine, which
he launched with the help of Isabella. She also helped
him expand printing Christmas annuals, guides and dictionaries. In eighteen
fifty eight, Isabella opened a soup kitchen to help provide
food to poor children.
Speaker 1 (08:18):
And by eighteen sixty she had taken over as editor
of English Women's Domestic magazine from Sam, and the two
of them had a kid. They were living in Pinner,
which is a suburb of sorts kind of like twelve
miles outside of London, and Isabella and Sam commuted into
the city daily, leaving their kid at home. She was
like probably the only middle class woman like in the
(08:39):
first class train carriage going in.
Speaker 3 (08:41):
In the mornings. Wow.
Speaker 2 (08:45):
And this about brings us to her seminal work, the
one she's most known for. But first it brings us
to a quick break forward from our sponsor and we're back,
Thank you sponsor, Yes, thank you okay, so yes, the
(09:07):
book that she is most known for, as we said
at the top, Missus Beaton's Book of Household Management came
out in eighteen sixty one, when she was twenty five
years old.
Speaker 3 (09:17):
Huh.
Speaker 2 (09:18):
It was collected from two years worth of monthly periodicals
published as a supplement to English Women's Domestic, beginning in
eighteen fifty nine, including recipes solicited from readers. Isabella took
these pieces from the English Woman's Domestic magazine and put
them together with chapters from a doctor and a lawyer
to make in one thousand, one hundred and twelve page book.
Speaker 3 (09:42):
Instant Gossic.
Speaker 2 (09:45):
Sixty thousand copies sold in the first year. By eighteen
sixty eight, two million copies had been sold. Critics praised
it to After this book came out, she became known
as Missus Beeton, and it was meant to be a guide.
The book was in the rapidly growing and aspiring middle
class of the Victorian era. According to John Wagner, editor
(10:08):
of the book The Voices of Victorian England quote, by
the eighteen fifties, middle class wise were expected to frugally
and efficiently run their husband's households, and thus had to
be skilled in such task as hiring, firing and supervising servants,
planning on cooking meals, dealing with tradesmen, and teaching, nursing
and disciplining children. Because many girls were no longer automatically
(10:32):
learning these skills from their mothers, there existed a need
for a practical handbook on household management, which the Beatens
recognized and sought to meet.
Speaker 1 (10:42):
It's likely that she and Sam decided to create household
management to capitalize on this growing market more than out
of like particular personal expertise. Social and economic changes at
the time had given rise to this expanding and upwardly
mobile middle class, and within that middle class, there was
an expertation that young women basically be fun at parties,
(11:03):
you know, like no an instrument, no a second language,
like be well right enough to carry on a conversation
about contemporary arts and culture. And so instead of like
just learning how to run a household as like their
grandmothers might have, they were busy learning all this other stuff.
People were also increasingly moving to towns and cities rather
than staying out in the country, and women were more
(11:24):
likely therefore to move away from home when they got married.
Their lives and their households in town were probably very
different than their mother's lives and households had been. So again,
like women didn't have the social support the previous generations
had had, and people in general were becoming less connected
to the sources of their food.
Speaker 3 (11:44):
Yeah, lots of things going on.
Speaker 2 (11:45):
I have this very vague memory as a kid.
Speaker 3 (11:48):
Of watching this like twenty minute cartoon and it was
supposed to teach you.
Speaker 2 (11:55):
How to be a lady, but in this kind of sense,
like oh, book on your head and drink tea and
things like that, and this whole I haven't been able
to remember what it was, but I keep I can
visualize it.
Speaker 3 (12:11):
I remember thinking there's no way I would ever, ever, ever,
ever be able to do that.
Speaker 2 (12:15):
Oh yeah, but I was kind of fascinated by it
as a as a child. Yeah, look at these women
passing books on the heads and drinking tea.
Speaker 3 (12:24):
Huh.
Speaker 2 (12:26):
Anyway, from the book consuming culture in the long nineteenth century,
any woman who felt her position to be unimportant and
useless could be persuaded by the strength of Missus Beeton's rhetoric.
The mistress is the first and last the alpha and
omega in the government of her establishment, and it is
by her conduct that its whole internal policy is regulated.
Speaker 1 (12:47):
Those are quotes directly from household Management.
Speaker 3 (12:50):
Yeah. In her opening sentence, missus Beeton compares the mistress
of the house to a quote commander of an army
who attains the highest rain of the female character when
she enters into knowledge of household duties. Oh there's a
lot there.
Speaker 1 (13:07):
Yes, commander of an army, huh, and that army that
you are commanding. As that commander, you are the highest
possible rank of all of all ladies.
Speaker 3 (13:21):
Yep. Not that.
Speaker 1 (13:23):
If that's what you're into doing, that's I mean, do it.
But goodness, my gracious that I'm glad for feminism. Not
all of her readers would have been able to afford
a whole team of servants, but the book also contained
instructions for housemaids that helpfully could be carried out by
the reader as well, all while a hiding the fact
(13:46):
of such a lack of help from nosy neighbors and
be getting a peak at the kind of near mythological
upper classes leisurely life.
Speaker 2 (13:56):
Another quote, This one's some advice from the book. Early
rising is one of the most essential qualities which enter
into good household management, as is not only the parent
of health, but of innumerable other advantages. Indeed, when a
mistress is an early riser, it is almost certain that
her house will be orderly and well managed. On the contrary,
(14:20):
if she remain in bed till a late hour, then
the domestics, who, as we have before observed invariably partake
somewhat of their mistress's character, will surely become sluggards.
Speaker 3 (14:32):
Oh, I would have been so screwed.
Speaker 1 (14:34):
Oh heck. Well, the book did place like a well
running household, sort of like a vanguard against the potential
moral decay of the changing times.
Speaker 3 (14:47):
Very powerful stuff.
Speaker 2 (14:49):
Yeah, And just to go a little bit further into
what was in this book, it had recipes, It had
advice on household management, hilcare, entertainment, etiquette, all that stuff
that we said at the top.
Speaker 3 (15:01):
One of my favorite things is it.
Speaker 2 (15:03):
Adds stuff about the validity or not of the io you.
Speaker 1 (15:10):
Yeah, whole bit in the legal section about that.
Speaker 3 (15:13):
I as a child, this is terrible and I don't
agree with it anymore.
Speaker 2 (15:17):
But I used to give IOUs to my brothers for
their birthday, but they never gave me anything.
Speaker 1 (15:23):
So sure at least you'd thought about it.
Speaker 2 (15:25):
Yeah, And if they'd like followed up, I think they
just didn't want to hang out with me because I'd
be like, I owe you video game playing session and
I really just want to play video games, and.
Speaker 3 (15:33):
They were like, no, Well, I still remember that.
Speaker 2 (15:39):
Brothers who don't listen to this show and one of
the reasons this book was such a huge deal has
to do with how it was laid out. The format
of the recipes, with ingredients, measurements and instructions, cooking times
and techniques, prices, and a thorough index that is commonplace
to us was revolutionary back then. Oh yeah, it was
(16:03):
one of the first of its kind, and it changed
cookbooks forever. To this day, cookbooks are laid out that way.
At the time, people called the book Missus Beaton's cookbook.
Speaker 1 (16:14):
Most of the recipes were also illustrated, with colored engravings
on almost every page, which helped out to you know,
see what it was supposed to look like at the end.
Speaker 3 (16:21):
Yeah, always very helpful.
Speaker 2 (16:23):
She had never had to do the cooking herself, so
in preparation for this book, she tested out a recipe
a day, and one of the recipe names that caught
my eye gave me a chuckle.
Speaker 3 (16:32):
Boiled seagale, boiled sea kale. Okay, I don't know what
that means. I'm intrigue. Yeah.
Speaker 1 (16:42):
She mainly collected the recipes from classic cookery books dating
back to the sixteen hundreds, along with from a few
contemporary authors, and yes, you can call this plagiarism. That's
essentially what it is. But yeah, let's talk more about
some of those recipes. Uh, half pay pudding, what hashed partridges,
(17:02):
bread soup, collared pig's face.
Speaker 3 (17:05):
Ooh oh.
Speaker 2 (17:08):
I'm interested in that one because I have two ideas
of what it could be and I want to know
if it's one of those or neither.
Speaker 1 (17:15):
I perhaps upsettingly, did not actually read the recipe.
Speaker 3 (17:18):
I just like saw the name. I saw the name
and was like, there you go.
Speaker 1 (17:22):
It's a pretty intriguing name. It is it is, We'll
have to investigate further. One recipe that was pointed out
as being particularly interesting by a history teacher, one Amanda Herbert,
is for mango chutney. And remember this is eighteen sixty one, okay,
and it calls for in precise weight measurements, which was
(17:43):
again new and in recipes at the time, sugar, salt, garlic, onions,
powdered ginger, dried chilies, mustard seed, pitted raisins, vinegar, and
sour apples. Notice that it doesn't call for any mangoes
because you wouldn't have been able to get mangoes in
England at the rome. Right, Notice all of that spice
that goes into it, that you know, which kind of
(18:04):
defies a lot of modern stereotypes about English food and
especially like older stodgy English food or what we consider
that to be. Notice this is a Bengalese recipe shared
during a time of enormous strife between the British and
the peoples of the Indian subcontinent. The recipe text mentions
that quote, this chutney is very superior to any which
(18:24):
can be bought, and one trial will prove it to
be delicious. Like Notice how this indicates that store bought
chutneys were readily available, and that Beaten was also promoting
like a homemade versus storbought mentality, which speaks to contemporary
ideas about the industrialization of food, like a little bit
(18:44):
of like romanticism about like bring it back.
Speaker 3 (18:47):
Into the home, make it yourself. Yeah, yeah, getting back
to the roots of it. Yeah, that is really really interesting.
Speaker 1 (18:55):
Beaten also encouraged using seasonal ingredients over more expensive or
martially preserved products, and of kind treatment to farm animals.
I had to include this quote about chickens. Oh it's
so good, Okay, of chickens. She wrote that you can
clip a chicken's wings, but you will not erase from
his memory that he is a fowl and that his
(19:16):
proper sphere is the open air. If he likewise reflects
that he is an ill used fowl, a prison bird,
he will then come to the conclusion that there is
not the least use under such circumstances for his existence.
And you must admit that the decision is only logical
and natural.
Speaker 3 (19:34):
That's deep stuff. Whoa let chickens run free range? Man? Indeed,
missus Beeton says.
Speaker 1 (19:45):
Yeah, otherwise they'll get depressed.
Speaker 3 (19:50):
Yes, I'm sure, as would we all.
Speaker 1 (19:52):
The book also encouraged smart incorporation of leftovers into future meals,
providing weekly meal plans to make full use of it
budget and she also tended to include like a price
per serving with each recipe and labeled right at the top,
whether they tended to be rich or like economical.
Speaker 2 (20:10):
Oh yeah, I always appreciate that stuff when it's included
in recipes.
Speaker 3 (20:13):
Oh totally yeah.
Speaker 1 (20:15):
I hte it when I'm like seventeen items in and
it's like now, add seventeen pounds of saffron and I'm.
Speaker 2 (20:20):
Like wow, oh yeah, or the moment when you put
something in the oven and you realize you forgot.
Speaker 3 (20:26):
Oh geez, I'm the best at that, me too. Unfortunately,
it's a good thing.
Speaker 2 (20:32):
We are on a show about food, the science and culture,
not a cooking show.
Speaker 3 (20:37):
Not a cooking show. No, we never claimed to be
good cooks.
Speaker 2 (20:42):
Isabella Beaton's husband launched a lady's paper called The Queen.
It was published weekly and it contained information about London's
high society and social events. It also came with advice
for the intended female audience. After Isabella took a trip
to Paris, she was able to include articles about the
French fashion scene as well.
Speaker 1 (21:04):
And this just about brings us to sadly the end
of Isabella's life, But the book and her character would
live on, and we'll get into that as soon as
we get back from one more quick break for a
word from our sponsor, and we're back. Thank you, sponsor, Yes,
(21:29):
thank you.
Speaker 2 (21:30):
Beton died after a complication from the birth of her
fourth child on February sixth, eighteen sixty five.
Speaker 3 (21:38):
She was twenty eight years old. Oh so young.
Speaker 1 (21:42):
According to one biography, The Short Life and Long Times
of Missus Beeton, by one Catherine Hughes, it was an infection,
probably caused by the attending doctor at the birth failing
to wash his hands properly.
Speaker 3 (21:58):
Women's health care.
Speaker 1 (21:59):
Let's all get more of that. It's pretty great, yea.
Speaker 2 (22:02):
Her husband attempted to keep the news of her death
under wraps so he could keep publishing stuff under her name,
but his attempt did not work, and the news leaked
out within a few weeks. Of her children, the first
who died before reaching three years of age.
Speaker 1 (22:23):
There's a long standing family rumor, confirmed by some of
Isabella's biographers, that Sam had contracted syphilis before their marriage
and passed it to Isabella, which could explain those early
child deaths, and also gossip that Isabella had gone through
a number of miscarriages. Sam, by the way, went into
a steep decline after the eighteen sixties, facing financial difficulties
(22:46):
and physical and mental illness, further bolstering the whole syphilist theory.
The Englishwoman's Domestic magazine got a little bit ribald, did it?
Speaker 3 (22:54):
Really?
Speaker 2 (22:56):
Yeah?
Speaker 1 (22:58):
I will take your word for it. It's stuff that
I honestly can't repeat on air. Woo.
Speaker 2 (23:05):
So my goodness, Oh Victorians, Oh Victorians. Their other two sons,
Orchard Beaton and Mason Moss went on to make their
own successes. Orchard joined the army and Mason went into
publishing and then journalism, and then founded and became president
of a paper mill called Anglo Newfoundland Development Company. During
(23:28):
the height of war, this company kept the supply of
paper for the daily mail stock.
Speaker 1 (23:33):
All Good Job and the Book of Household Management. Missus
Beeton's Book of Household Management was updated over the years,
first by Sam and later other editors to include advice
on a new household technologies gas ovens, refrigerators, what, and
to update the recipes to fit changing tastes and fashions.
By eighteen ninety one there was a chapter on the
(23:54):
science of cookery, including a breakdown of the macronutrients that
people need and how much of them common foods contained.
By the Edwardian era, the recipes became heavier and blander,
and with the changing times, the text even acknowledged that
a middle class woman might need to run her household
with a minimum of servants, just a minimum, a minimum
(24:20):
mm hmm.
Speaker 2 (24:22):
To this day, Missus Beeton's cookbook remains a best seller.
I read at some point it was second only to
the Bible the original version is available online as part
of the public domain. And I also read in more
than one place that the importance of this book cannot
be overstated when it comes to authors writing something set
(24:43):
in the Victorian era. Oh, I absolutely believe it.
Speaker 1 (24:47):
Yeah, yeah, if you're writing in that area, y'all. If
you have not already, please get read it. Great resource
for you.
Speaker 2 (24:54):
While Missus Beeton's cookbook was revolutionary, it was not the
first cook book by far, not really even the first
of its type. Eliza Acton's Cookery for Private Families came
out in eighteen forty five, and French ships Alexis Soy's
The Modern Housewife came out in eighteen fifty one. Beaten
borrowed plagiarized heavily from these without citation, along with works
(25:19):
from other folks like Charles Franktelly and Elizabeth Raffled. But
Sam and other editors later kept this image of Missus
Beeton alive, and although the news of her death had leaked, like,
publishers of future editions just generally didn't like mention it
and would write prefaces for the books from her point
of view. From this, increasingly, like non Isabella related like
(25:43):
like kind of like like stallwart, like like matronly. This
is Beaten point.
Speaker 3 (25:47):
Of view, right. Yeah.
Speaker 1 (25:50):
After nineteen ninety five, the folks who had acquired the
rights to the Beaten name started licensing it to food manufacturers,
and they're also still publishing under her name all kinds
of spin off books. Microwaving with Missus Beeton. Missus Beeton's
healthy eating is.
Speaker 2 (26:07):
The healthy eating how she's managed to survive and keep
putting out these books for so long.
Speaker 1 (26:13):
Oh, you gotta eat your veggies if you want to
concentrate on editing.
Speaker 2 (26:15):
I do love microwaving Missus.
Speaker 3 (26:19):
It's very sweet, it really is.
Speaker 1 (26:22):
In the year two thousand, Oxford World's Classics released an
edition of Household Management. And this is an Oxford imprint
that publishes like comprehensive and definitive editions of globally important literature.
So I really love that it made the list. The
editor of that edition, one at Nikola Humble, pointed out
that the book quote tells of a culture caught between
(26:45):
the old world and the new, poised between modernity and nostalgia,
of kitchens where meat is still roasted over spits over
open fires, but which contain many of the commercial bottled
sauces and condiments we take for granted today. It's medical
chapters offer instructions for the application no Leeches, alongside advice
about vaccination.
Speaker 3 (27:03):
That's so great, So Wild.
Speaker 1 (27:06):
In twenty ten, BBC two aired an hour long special
on the life and Times of Missus Beeton, written and
hosted by Sophie Dahl.
Speaker 3 (27:13):
You can look that up if you'd like to.
Speaker 1 (27:16):
And uh, that's about what we've got about Isabella Beeton,
our profile.
Speaker 3 (27:21):
Of deliciousness case closed. It fascinating stuff.
Speaker 1 (27:27):
Yeah, yeah, And if you if you want to read
more that biography I mentioned a minute ago, the name
the the Short Life and Long Times of Isabella Beaton. Yeah,
it seems like a I haven't. I've only read passages
from it, but it seems really cool. So if you're
if you're into it, check it out. You know, you
can go right now and grab a copy of the
(27:48):
original book on Project Gutenberger, you know, anything like that.
Speaker 3 (27:52):
It's out there for you. It's out there for you
to find.
Speaker 1 (28:09):
And that brings us to the end of this classic episode.
If you have any personal memories about any of Missus
Beeton's books, we would love to hear them. Or any
other cookbooks that played a role in making you the
kitchen human who you are today. You can get in
touch with us via email at Hello, atsavorpod dot.
Speaker 3 (28:30):
Com, or on social media.
Speaker 1 (28:32):
We are on blue Sky and Instagram at savor pod,
and we do hope to hear from you. Save is
production of iHeartRadio. For more podcasts my Heart Radio, you
can visit the iHeartRadio app, Apple Podcasts, or wherever.
Speaker 3 (28:44):
You listen to your favorite shows.
Speaker 1 (28:46):
Thanks as always to our super producers Dylan Fagan and
Andrew Howard. Thanks to you for listening, and we hope
that lots more good things are coming your way.