February 14, 2025 • 33 mins
Nimene learns how ‘street couture’ fashion came to be with a brand new hip-hop track about fashion pioneer Willi Smith. Featuring an interview between fashion designer Humberto Leon and an 8 year old fashion lover from New York named Olivia.
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Speaker 1 (00:00):
Hey, what's up people?
Speaker 2 (00:01):
This is Questlove and an honor of Black History Month,
when Fridays we'll be releasing episodes of Historical Records my
podcast with the story Pirates. It's an explosive fusion of
hip hop and history, tailor made for music loving kids
and families. That's right, you heard right, something the entire
family can sit back, listen to, and enjoy together. So
(00:24):
in this episode, host Nemony learns how street guiture fashion
came to be with a brand new hip hop track
about fashion pioneer Willie Smith, featuring an interview between fashion
designer Humberto Leon and an eight year old fashion lover
from New York named Olivia. Get your kids, Sit back
(00:44):
and enjoy Historical Records, the show that proves that in
order to make history, you have to make some noise.
Speaker 3 (00:54):
Hi listeners, Neminy here in the ballroom of the Secret Bunker,
reporting to you live Fashion's biggest night of the year.
In just a moment, Tina and the other raccoons are
gonna try on all my clothes and hit the runway.
We're expecting a lot of different looks out of my
closet tonight, and we're hopeful that will find at least
one outfit that I am still willing to wear. I've
(01:18):
just received word from Tina that the show is starting. Oh,
and here comes the first model down the runway. It's
Tina standing on top of four other raccoons, so they're
the same height as me. And look at this. They're
wearing my favorite simple black dress. Now, this dress is
very special to me. I got it during my junior
(01:40):
year of college. I wear it to eighty percent of
the nice events I have to attend, and it's honestly
starting to get a little scratching in the shoulders. It
is pretty, but it's also pretty tired and should probably
be cut up and repurposed into kitchen rags. Sorry, Tina,
that one is not happening. But don't worry, listeners. We've
got two more, hopefully passable options to see, and here
(02:04):
they come again. Wow. This next piece coming down the
runway is a real stutter, also being worn by five
raccoons standing on top of each other. This one is
a floral pant suit, and it looks like the raccoons
are having some fun up there.
Speaker 1 (02:20):
We love to see.
Speaker 3 (02:21):
It, but does this dress still work for me? I'm
not so sure it does, Tina. This is an outfit
that I wore once for my cousin's wedding and then
never wore again. Did it look good at the time, Absolutely?
Can I bring myself to wear it again? Absolutely not.
(02:43):
No one said fashion was easy. Side note. Is there
anything more adorable than the sound of a crowd of
raccoons being bummed out? I think not now. This last
outfit coming down the runway once again, being worn by
five raccoons standing on top of one another, is a
vampire tape. Vampire tape and a vampire wig. It's my
(03:04):
Halloween costume from last year. I was a vampire. Stop
the music, Tina, None of these options work. I have
a confession to make Scientists. International magazine is doing a
big feature on scientists who live in top secret underground bunkers,
(03:25):
and they're sending a photographer here today to howurd top
secret underground bunker to take a picture of me. I agree.
The reason I ask you and the other raccoons to
do this fashion show is because I have absolutely nothing
glamorous to wear.
Speaker 4 (03:46):
Its historical records.
Speaker 5 (03:49):
You are now listening to historical.
Speaker 3 (03:54):
To make history, you got to have struggles. To make history,
you got to show poys cannot be quiet loud that
so rye. To make history, you gotta make some noise.
Welcome back to Historical Records, where we conduct highly experimental
experiments combining history and hip hop. Today's episode is about
(04:16):
the pioneering fashion designer Willie Smith. But we'll get to
Willy in a minute. Right now, I'm in the middle
of my own fashion disasser. I agree the vampire costume
is funny, but I need to impress my fellow scientists,
not make them laugh. My boring black dress, my floral
(04:36):
pants suit, my vampire Halloween costume. None of these outfits
feel like they're really gonna wow anyone. I want to
wow people. What do you mean you have just the thing? Dana?
Where are you calling? Oh? Okay, the spotlight on the
runway is back. Uh. Our next model is about to
(04:58):
come down the runway, where what she assures me is
the greatest outfit of all time. Yes, there she is
Tina the Raccoon, and it appears that she is wearing
a dress made entirely of garbage. Okay, no raccoons, Thanks
(05:20):
for your help, but I can't wear a dress made
of trash for my big photo shoot. This is Scientist's
international magazine we're talking about. It's like the biggest publication
amongst scientists who are international and who also read magazines.
Thanks Tina, I knew you'd understand. Let's look in my
(05:40):
closet one more time in case I missed something. Hello,
cute and fancy clothes, where are you? Hmm Nope, No
fancy impressive clothes in here, Just a bunch of useless junk.
Wait a minute, how have I never noticed this hit
door before? Just as I suspected, this door leads to
(06:05):
a gigantic closet. Closet clu Oh no, this is a library.
That tiny door just led to the library. Wait a second,
Maybe one of the historians can help me find something
to wear, Gabe, lay anyone in here. I need a
historian who also has the fashion seens, if possible. What
(06:27):
was that? And where is all this smoke coming from?
Speaker 1 (06:32):
Oh high, niminy, Gabe? What was that huge kaboom sound?
Sorry about that.
Speaker 6 (06:37):
I've just been testing out the latest design for my
history simulator. Want to give it a try? Well I
kind of need Come on, it'll just take a second. Here,
put on this helmet.
Speaker 3 (06:46):
M okay, I guess this helmet is kind of cute.
Speaker 6 (06:50):
Now climb up here and slide down this tube a
new love a slide, and get ready to get blasted
off in this gigantic old timey cannon like the kind
they have at the Sir, I guess I thought.
Speaker 3 (07:01):
You said this was a history simulator.
Speaker 1 (07:03):
It is.
Speaker 6 (07:04):
It just so happens to be shaped like a gigantic
old timey cannon, like.
Speaker 1 (07:08):
The kind they have at the Circus.
Speaker 6 (07:10):
But instead of launching this space, it launches you through time.
Speaker 3 (07:13):
Gabe. You and I both know I love traveling through history,
but I don't know that I want to be launched
through history.
Speaker 1 (07:21):
Don't worry about it. I'll do it with you.
Speaker 5 (07:25):
Mmm.
Speaker 7 (07:25):
Got it.
Speaker 6 (07:26):
Let's sit in here, an astute observation and an improvement
I'll make in version two point zero.
Speaker 3 (07:31):
Wait, this is only the first draft of your time cannon.
Speaker 6 (07:34):
I prefer history simulator shape like a gigantic Old timey cannon,
like the kind they have.
Speaker 1 (07:40):
At the Circus. But yes, this is the first draft.
Now let's simulate history.
Speaker 3 (07:47):
This is safe, right, Gabe.
Speaker 6 (07:49):
Honestly I'm still working out the kinks.
Speaker 3 (07:51):
Wait what see, what's.
Speaker 1 (07:58):
Look beneath us.
Speaker 6 (07:59):
That's all of human history, and it's flying right by us.
Speaker 3 (08:02):
Kind of feels like we're flying right by next.
Speaker 1 (08:06):
Now you're getting it.
Speaker 6 (08:07):
Remember to tuck and roll when you lando tucking roll
when you boo, I was saying, never mind you, Okay, Gabe,
can I.
Speaker 3 (08:15):
Give you some constructive feedback on your history? Simulator shape
like a gigantic old timey cannon, like the kind they
have at the circus.
Speaker 1 (08:21):
It's a long name. I know, I'm working on it.
Speaker 3 (08:24):
That's not what I was gonna say. Look over there,
is that a fashion show?
Speaker 1 (08:29):
Let's take a look.
Speaker 3 (08:30):
Oh wait a minute, where are we This doesn't look
like a normal fashion show.
Speaker 6 (08:35):
You're right, it's the early nineteen eighties and we're at
the Alvin Ailey American Dance Theater in New York City.
Speaker 3 (08:41):
A dance studio.
Speaker 5 (08:43):
Yep.
Speaker 6 (08:43):
Alvin Ailey was a famous choreographer who fused ballet, jazz, theater,
and modern dance with narratives about black life.
Speaker 3 (08:50):
Well, Alvin Ailey sounds cool, But if we're doing a
fashion show in a dance studio, the designer probably isn't
that good.
Speaker 6 (08:58):
Are you sure about that? Take a closer look at
the crowd.
Speaker 3 (09:01):
Wait a minute, is that Spike Lee, the famous film director?
M h and keep herring. Oh, he's one of my
favorite artists.
Speaker 6 (09:10):
And sitting right next to him is Andrew Whitten aka Zephyr,
a legend in the graffiti world.
Speaker 3 (09:16):
Is everyone in this audience somewhat interesting?
Speaker 1 (09:18):
Yep?
Speaker 6 (09:19):
Each of them is a luminary in their field, most
from the New York fashion scene.
Speaker 3 (09:24):
So whose fashion show is this?
Speaker 1 (09:25):
The lights are going down, let's watch and find out together.
Speaker 3 (09:28):
Oh my goodness, these models are all so beautiful and unique.
Some of them are tall, some of them are shorts,
some are bigger, some are smaller. I see different shades
of skin men and women. Is this what every fashion
show was like in the nineteen eighties?
Speaker 6 (09:46):
Not at all for the nineteen eighties. This is incredibly diverse.
Speaker 3 (09:50):
And these clothes, shapes and colors and fabrics. I love
everything I'm seeing. I have to know who the designer is.
Speaker 1 (09:59):
Well, here he comes.
Speaker 3 (10:00):
Now.
Speaker 6 (10:00):
His name is Willie Smith and we're at a show
for his popular fashion brand, Willie Ware.
Speaker 3 (10:05):
So that's Willie Smith. He's such a talented designer. Uh okay, Gabe,
do you hear that sizzling sound like someone lit a
long wick and it's slowly burning its way towards something gigantic.
Speaker 1 (10:19):
I do.
Speaker 6 (10:20):
That means it's time to head back into the Ji
sor can hissulator. Huh uh, the gigantic circus canon history simulator.
Speaker 1 (10:29):
I'm workshopping the name. Remember that when you wear?
Speaker 3 (10:39):
Where are we now? And what's that delicious smell?
Speaker 6 (10:43):
I believe you're smelling fresh doses because we're in.
Speaker 1 (10:46):
Mumbai, India.
Speaker 3 (10:48):
What are we doing here?
Speaker 6 (10:49):
This is one of the places where Willy Smith got
his inspiration while traveling the world in search of the
right fabrics for his clothing. Willie didn't look to Paris
or Milan, but that's where all the.
Speaker 3 (11:00):
Fashion designers find the fabrics with all the fun colors
and patterns.
Speaker 1 (11:04):
Right, not exactly.
Speaker 6 (11:06):
Willy was looking for colors and patterns, sure, but he
was also looking for durable fabrics that could give his
clothes a flowing feel in looser shapes.
Speaker 3 (11:15):
Wooh, look at the price tag on this fabric. It's lavish,
but it's also affordable. That's exactly what brought Willy to India.
Speaker 6 (11:23):
He wanted fabrics that weren't just pretty look at, but
that you could actually live and work in, and it
helped him make sure that everyone could afford his pieces.
Speaker 3 (11:33):
So he didn't want to look in all the same
place as all the other designers were looking exactly smart.
Oh man, that dosa looks tasty. Maybe I'll just snag
a bite.
Speaker 6 (11:44):
No time, there's more history to simulate to the historical
circus blaster three thousand.
Speaker 3 (11:51):
Em that's not it either. Hey, can we go slower
this time? Sorry?
Speaker 6 (11:56):
Gigantic old timey cannon like the kind they have at
the circus, only has one speed.
Speaker 3 (12:01):
Here we go, Man, I keep landing wrong, and now
I'm hungry. I really wanted that Noza niminy.
Speaker 1 (12:17):
It was a simulated dosa.
Speaker 3 (12:19):
Well it made me simulated hungry. Where are we now?
Speaker 1 (12:23):
We're in Harlem, New York City.
Speaker 6 (12:25):
There's the Abyssinian Baptist Church, and there's the Apollo Theater,
and over there is one hundred and twenty fifth Street,
lined with vendors selling everything from T shirts to community
newspapers to incense.
Speaker 3 (12:37):
And let me guess that's stylish. Young man over there
with the loose fitting dressed clothes, looking at all the
people and sketching in his notebook is a young Willie
Smith Bingo.
Speaker 6 (12:49):
Before he started Willywere Willy Smith would walk the streets
of New York, strolling past black churches on Sundays, taking
inspiration from the women wearing their Sunday best. While other
fashion designers were trying to dress celebrities and the ultra rich,
Willie was inspired by the style of everyday working class people.
Speaker 3 (13:08):
Hey, look at that park. Those breakdancers have some pretty
funky moves.
Speaker 6 (13:14):
This is the kind of park where Willie would watch
office workers in their old, stuffy business suits walking past
those breakdancers in their hip streetwear, and wonder, how can
I bring these two worlds together.
Speaker 3 (13:26):
So streetwear hasn't always been a part of high.
Speaker 6 (13:29):
Fashion, Willie was one of the first fashion designers to
bring influence from the streets, the clubs, and black culture
in general into high fashion. Without him, a lot of
today's streetwear brands probably wouldn't be what they are.
Speaker 3 (13:42):
So before Willie Smith's high fashion was only for the rich,
and his work helped make fashion more accessible for everybody.
Speaker 5 (13:50):
Yes.
Speaker 6 (13:51):
In fact, one of his most famous quotes is, I
don't design clothes for the queen, but for the people
who wave at her as she goes by that.
Speaker 3 (14:01):
But so far we're just talking about businessmen and bee boys.
Did Willy Smith design any clothing for women?
Speaker 6 (14:08):
Actually, Willie Smith wasn't interested in designing solely for men
or for women. His brand Williware was one of the
first major fashion brands to design both and even include
plenty of gender neutral designs.
Speaker 3 (14:22):
Sounds like Willie Smith was really ahead of his time.
Is this the neighborhood where he grew up?
Speaker 1 (14:28):
Not at all, He grew up in Philadelphia. Want to see?
Speaker 3 (14:31):
Oh no, not more time blasting.
Speaker 1 (14:33):
Time blasting. That's pretty good. Let's keep spitballing off that.
Look I can do a backflip.
Speaker 6 (14:40):
Who we're flying?
Speaker 3 (14:43):
Oh, we're in a house. Maybe I can find some
cool clothes in one of these closets.
Speaker 6 (14:48):
Wait, wait, wait, first, look around this bedroom we're in.
Speaker 3 (14:52):
Hmm, there are a lot of drawings on the walls,
like a lot of drawings. Is this WILLI myths room?
Speaker 6 (15:00):
Yes, it's his childhood bedroom in Philadelphia in the early
nineteen sixties.
Speaker 3 (15:05):
Look at this notebook. These drawings have so much imagination
in them. Oh, look at all these people wearing elegant costumes.
Speaker 6 (15:15):
Even from a young age. Willie loved to draw in
design clothes. His mother even told him that she knew
he was born to be an artist or a designer.
Speaker 3 (15:24):
Is Willy here right now?
Speaker 1 (15:25):
He's not home.
Speaker 6 (15:26):
His mom and grandma have taken him to the Philadelphia
Museum of Art, something they did frequently.
Speaker 3 (15:31):
Oh, I love that museum.
Speaker 1 (15:33):
So did Willy's family.
Speaker 6 (15:35):
They encouraged his love of drawing clothing and took.
Speaker 1 (15:38):
Him to the museum to sketch.
Speaker 6 (15:40):
They didn't have a lot of money, but they did
have style, and after his parents divorced, Willy's grandma encouraged
him to continue pursuing his dreams of working in fashion design.
Speaker 3 (15:50):
Sounds like his upbringing was a really big influence on him.
Speaker 6 (15:54):
Indeed, Willie's friend, former neighbor and fashion editor Kim Hastrider
once said what would make Willy proud was not when
a movie star wore his clothes.
Speaker 1 (16:04):
He would burst with pride.
Speaker 6 (16:06):
When he'd see black kids on the street running around
in his stuff, or those black ladies at the bank
wearing it to work.
Speaker 3 (16:13):
How sweet? Okay, now about those closets.
Speaker 6 (16:17):
Nimity, they're simulated closets full of simulated clothes.
Speaker 3 (16:20):
Well, I can still try them on can't. I.
Speaker 6 (16:22):
But there's so much more to see to the super big,
super old circuits reminiscent history simulating blasting machine.
Speaker 3 (16:30):
That's an even worse and longer name than before. Wait,
why are we in a comic book shop?
Speaker 6 (16:38):
Well, I wanted to talk about Willy Smith's legacy. Sadly,
as his company was making record profits, Willy's success in
the fashion world was cut short when he passed away
in nineteen eighty seven at the age of thirty nine,
due to complications from AIDS.
Speaker 3 (16:53):
That's so young.
Speaker 6 (16:55):
Unfortunately, Yes, the AIDS epidemic of the nineteen eighties took
away man any of our best artists and leaders, especially
those in the LGBTQ community, But Willy's influence can still
be felt everywhere. His designs were worn by famous dancers
in Spike Lee movies like School Days, and even in
the pages of this comic book Spider Man Yep. In
(17:18):
the issue where Peter Parker and Mary Jane finally get married,
Mary Jane's wedding grace was designed by none other than
Willie Smith. Now follow me outside this bronze plaque right
here on the seventh Avenue Fashion Walk of Fame in
New York City commemorates Willie Smith and his contribution to fashion.
(17:39):
In nineteen eighty eight, one year after his death, New
York City's first black Mayor, David Dinkins proclaimed February twenty
third as Willie Smith Day in New York City.
Speaker 3 (17:49):
February twenty third.
Speaker 6 (17:52):
That's today, Well it is here in the simulation. Oh boy,
speaking of look at the time space. We really should
be heading back home. Un Hey, nice landing.
Speaker 3 (18:06):
Thanks. I've had lots of practice with the gigantic old
timey cannon, like the kind they have at the circus.
Speaker 1 (18:13):
I believe you mean the time cannon.
Speaker 3 (18:15):
That's the official name you're going with.
Speaker 1 (18:17):
Yep.
Speaker 3 (18:18):
Isn't that what I called it the very first time
I got in?
Speaker 1 (18:21):
Yep?
Speaker 3 (18:22):
And didn't you tell me you prefer gigantic old timey cannon,
like the kind they have at the circus.
Speaker 1 (18:26):
I've grown and I've changed fair anyway. That was fun.
Speaker 3 (18:31):
Yeah, I had a blast, literally, But also I learned
how to look at fashion in a totally different way.
Maybe I was thinking about my photo shoot all wrong.
I wonder what Willie would suggest I wear something practical
and yet somehow still cool.
Speaker 1 (18:46):
Don't you have a song to record.
Speaker 3 (18:48):
Oh you're right, I nearly forgot to the recording studio.
Bye Gabe. Wow, All right, listeners, check out this brand
new song all about Willie Smith.
Speaker 8 (19:05):
When people even nain't Willie Smith, I want them to
think that this is a person who cares enough about
them that he's taking the time to design and create
and think for them, like all Lellens of America.
Speaker 7 (19:24):
I could tell you what sale how I was supposed
to fail, but then I ended up sailing with all
the boats and whales. Before I was selling clothes, I
had hope for sale, and even at a discount. It
was so for real. Grew up in Hilladelkh had a
little help, Nope, a lot of help. My mother and
my father told me to go for self. Got it
to yourself, do your best, get it gone and you
can get coins. But true freedom is the wealth. Willie,
(19:46):
that's my name came into game. We'll get into all
of that, but for now I'm saying I'm conveying my
joy struggle. My joy not different from so many other
black boys. And I knew there was a world that
was almost had a reason. But I had to learn
lessons that nobody could see tablets full of design and fabric.
Speaker 9 (20:02):
Because it's your fashion.
Speaker 7 (20:03):
It is one thing. The style is another, my choice.
I'm afreedom to love imagine.
Speaker 1 (20:23):
Brand new, but it's still classic.
Speaker 7 (20:25):
Yes, I made clothes. Yes, I love to sew. I
possessed the fashion that I ain't even know. I knew
I had to grow. And you know I love Philly,
but New York City, Yeah, I knew I had to go.
My best decision him lines crafted with so much precision.
Speaker 1 (20:39):
You could see the fishing.
Speaker 9 (20:41):
A few people.
Speaker 7 (20:41):
Mentioned that it wasn't up to snuff, but eventually everybody
was loving my stuff. My mind went to another place
to create something live. The colors more vibrant, my own
little island where I could spend time on the shore,
getting close to the source.
Speaker 1 (20:54):
And I'm smiling.
Speaker 7 (20:55):
Now got a new clothing line. Yeah, it's finally out, Willie.
Speaker 10 (20:58):
Where hit it in?
Speaker 7 (20:59):
Get it there everywhere?
Speaker 5 (21:01):
I swear.
Speaker 7 (21:01):
I think back to the famous line, clothes don't make
the man unless you wear. In mind my joy, the
scene is overdone. It's supposed to be fun, but how
(21:24):
they want to say? So, let's go on and give
them so. I walked the line from the Harle of
Renaissance to de boys are richer now for the culture.
No decoys, street bustle and loud.
Speaker 1 (21:33):
Crowns, sweet noise.
Speaker 7 (21:34):
These are the things I mean when I speak joy
in twenty five mail offt designs.
Speaker 1 (21:38):
I chose so you can chill or if you.
Speaker 9 (21:40):
Want to profile and pose.
Speaker 7 (21:41):
And I don't make clothes for the queen. I'm making
for the people on the street who wave at the limousine.
I did it for us, those kids on the front,
stupid beautiful ladies who need a cute new suits. You
don't have to be safe to have taste. Make it oversize,
plus neon, green and ad lace whatever. I lived my
life with no regrets. Being true to my self meant
more than my success. I never claimed to be the
(22:03):
greatest of the best. I just wanted you to be
well dressed, and it's my pleasure.
Speaker 9 (22:07):
Joy stretch your arms out as far as you can,
your hands right there.
Speaker 1 (22:26):
Where you stand.
Speaker 3 (22:49):
We'll be right back after a few words. For the
grown ups. What a song the intercom buzzing, Well, I
guess that means the photographers here don't worry, Tina. I
figured it all out for my big photo shoot to
(23:09):
be featured in Scientists International magazine. I've decided that I'm
just going to wear my normal, everyday lab coat. Yep.
High fashion doesn't always mean the most expensive or exclusive thing.
Fashion is about expression, and my lab coat is the
truest expression of me. It's comfy, it's functional, and a
(23:29):
nice uniform reminds me of what I do and why
I love it. Of course, I want to impress my colleagues,
and I think this lab coat might do the trick.
And I don't need to spend a bunch of money
on something over the top to do that. No, you go, girl,
to answer the door. I need you to answer the
(23:51):
door and tell them I'll be just a minute. I
have an interview. Thanks Tina. All right, yeah, this helmet
hair probably isn't it for a photoshoot or an interview
for that matter. Today we're joined by fashion designer Umberto
Leon and an amazing kid named Olivia. Can you too
(24:13):
introduce yourselves?
Speaker 4 (24:15):
Hi?
Speaker 10 (24:15):
I'm Olivia, I'm eight years old and I live in
New York.
Speaker 4 (24:18):
I'm Umberto Leon and I'm co founder of Opening Ceremony
and was the former creative director of Kenzo and I
live in California.
Speaker 10 (24:28):
Umberto. Did you know I'm half Chinese too?
Speaker 4 (24:30):
You know what, I have daughters that are nine years
old and they look a little bit like you. So
I was going to ask you if you are half Chinese?
Speaker 5 (24:38):
Do you speak it?
Speaker 3 (24:39):
I know a bit.
Speaker 5 (24:41):
Yeah. What dialect does your family speak?
Speaker 10 (24:43):
I think we speak Cantonese.
Speaker 5 (24:45):
Whoa, that's what I speak actually.
Speaker 3 (24:47):
So, Olivia, what's your first question for Umberto?
Speaker 10 (24:50):
Why'd you become a fashion designer?
Speaker 5 (24:52):
That's a great question.
Speaker 4 (24:53):
When I was younger, I didn't know that being a
fashion designer was a job, you know. I I just
went to the mall and I saw clothing. I didn't
really think anything about that. And so I got my
first job working at a store. Have you ever heard
of the store called the Gap?
Speaker 3 (25:11):
Yeah.
Speaker 4 (25:11):
I started selling clothes and then my manager said, you
look like you would really like dressing the mannequins. So
then I started dressing the mannequins, and then I started
to do other stores mannequins and windows, and through that
experience it led me to eventually becoming a fashion designer.
Speaker 10 (25:32):
Did you ever make clothes for your own parents?
Speaker 4 (25:35):
So, growing up, my mom had three kids and the
only job she could take was to sew clothing for
a factory at home so that she could watch the kids.
And so she actually made clothes for me growing up
because I would see all these clothing in magazines and
I really loved it, but I couldn't afford it at
the time. So my mom decided to make all this
(25:56):
clothing for me. And so as I got to be
an adult, I wanted to repay that by doing things
for her. So I started to design clothing for her,
which was really really fun.
Speaker 5 (26:07):
Wow, that's so cool.
Speaker 3 (26:09):
How did you become interested in fashion? Olivia?
Speaker 10 (26:12):
And my family's related to fashion a lot too, because
my great grandmother she was a seamstress, and my grandmother
she makes me dresses, and my mom used to work
for Vera Wang before I was born.
Speaker 4 (26:25):
Did your mom save a lot of her clothing that
she got from your grandmother or that she made.
Speaker 5 (26:32):
Did she save a lot of it for you?
Speaker 10 (26:34):
Yeah? And my mom told me a long time ago
that Vera Wang made Mommy her wedding dress and she's
going to pass it on to me for my wedding.
Speaker 5 (26:42):
That is so so special.
Speaker 4 (26:45):
And Vera Wang is such a special designer because she's
one of the first Asian women to really make it
in the fashion.
Speaker 3 (26:54):
World, Olivia, do you have any questions for Umberto about
Willie Smith?
Speaker 10 (26:58):
So when you were younger, did Willie Smith any influence
on your work?
Speaker 4 (27:02):
You know, I grew up loving Willie Smith's work so much.
Willy was really inspired by what people wore on the streets,
and you know, at the time, I think a lot
of people were looking towards what they called high fashion,
and high fashion was interesting and it was cool, but
it was exclusive.
Speaker 5 (27:18):
Do you know what that word exclusive means?
Speaker 4 (27:20):
I don't think so not really, okay, So exclusive means
like it's only for a really small group of people
who could afford it or who could find it. So
Willie went out to create fashion and clothing for everybody.
One of the things that is super super big that
he did is he created clothing that was genderless. And
(27:41):
I think that type of thinking when he was doing
this in the seventies and eighties was really really big
because at this time people were making clothes specifically like
girls had to wear this and boys had to wear this.
So he was really breaking the boundaries in terms of
what clothing means. I mean, I'll should a t shirt
(28:01):
be for boys or for girls?
Speaker 10 (28:03):
Like, what do you think I think they should be
for both?
Speaker 4 (28:05):
I totally agree with you. Why can't boys wear dresses?
Or why is pinka color for girls? I think that
a lot of the world has kind of put things
into buckets that don't need to exist. Everybody should be
able to wear anything they want to wear, and I
think that was Willy's idea. Willie Smith really changed what
(28:26):
fashion is and how people could participate in fashion.
Speaker 3 (28:30):
Olivia, is there anything else you'd like to ask Comberto
before we say goodbye?
Speaker 10 (28:34):
What's your favorite part of being a fashion designer.
Speaker 4 (28:37):
One of my favorite things that I get to do
is I get to create something from nothing.
Speaker 5 (28:43):
I also love clothing from all around the world.
Speaker 4 (28:46):
I feel like there's so many amazing kind of clothing
that you see people wear for function.
Speaker 5 (28:51):
So I love to think about function.
Speaker 4 (28:53):
You know, where are you going to put your pockets,
what are you going to be carrying when you're wearing
those pants, or what are you going to be carrying
when you going on that hike. So it's almost like
a puzzle piece where you're designing, what you're thinking about
all these things that you want to make sure it does.
Speaker 10 (29:07):
I think fashion takes like a lot of work. Like
for me, I sit down and fashion clocks and two
minutes later, my hands are covered in glue and I'm
sweating and there's fabric all over the place. And if
I ever made clothes, what style of advice did you
have for me other kids my age?
Speaker 4 (29:23):
It's okay when you're designing to think a little bit
more wild and crazy, like don't hold back. And I
think that's the best advice.
Speaker 5 (29:31):
I could give to you.
Speaker 10 (29:32):
Well, you and your career sounds so awesome, and thank
you for talking with me.
Speaker 5 (29:37):
Thank you.
Speaker 4 (29:38):
I honestly loved all these questions you asked. You seem
like you're so well informed, and I hope to one
day meet you and maybe help you with your fashion ideas.
Speaker 5 (29:48):
It sounds like you have a lot.
Speaker 4 (29:49):
Yeah, I love that, and I think that anything that
you could take away from this conversation that inspires you means.
Speaker 5 (29:56):
A lot to me.
Speaker 10 (29:57):
Thank you, Emberte, goodbye.
Speaker 5 (29:59):
Thank you so much, see you later.
Speaker 3 (30:04):
What a great interview. I can't wait to see the
designs that Olivia comes up with someday, and I already
love Humberto Leone's designs, so I really loved getting to
hear more about where he gets his inspiration. Thanks Tina,
Tell the photographer, I'll be there in a minute. Let
me just put on my trusty lab coat and say
(30:27):
thank you to the listeners for learning all about Willie
Smith with me today and the nextra special thank you
to today's guests Humberto and Olivia. Remember our parents and teachers.
You can download a free activity related to today's episode
by visiting story pirates dot com slash Historical Records. We'll
(30:48):
be back next week with another historical record. Now, if
you'll excuse me, I've got a photoshoot to do. Oh
and one last thing. Remember to make history, you've got
to make some noise.
Speaker 11 (31:01):
Find Historical Records is produced in partnership with story Pirate Studios,
Questlove's two one five Entertainment, John Glickman and iHeart Podcasts
Executive produced by Emir Questlove Thompson, John Glickman, Lee Overtree,
(31:23):
and Benjamin Salga. Executive produced for iHeart Podcasts by Noel Brown.
Producers for story Pirate Studios are Isabella Ricchio, Sam Bear,
Eric Gerson, Andrew Miller, Lee Overtree, Peter McNerney Denisa Whartonby
and niminy Ware. Producers for two one five are Sewn G,
Britney Benjamin and Sarah Zolman. Hosted by niminy Ware. Our
(31:46):
head writer is Duke Doyle. Our historians are Gabe Pacheco
and Lee Polus. Music supervision for two one five by
Stroe Elliott. Scoring and music supervision for Story Pirate Studios
by Eric Gerson. Sound signed and mixing by Sam Bear
at the Relic Room in New York City. Song mastering
by Josh Hahn. Theme song by Dan Foster and Eric Gerson,
(32:08):
and produced by Eric Gerson. Production coordination by Isabelle Riccio.
Production management by Maggie Lee. The line producer for Story
Pirate Studios is Glennis Brault. Pr for Story Pirate Studios
is provided by Naomi Shaw. Episode artwork by Camilla Franklin.
This episode was written by Mike Cavalon. The song Willie
(32:28):
Smith was written and produced by Micah James. Special guests
Umbert to Leone and kid interviewer Olivia.
Speaker 1 (32:35):
This episode features.
Speaker 11 (32:36):
Performances by Micah James, Peter McNerney, Lee Overtree, and Gabe Pacheco.
Special thanks to J T. Sue and Dan foster
Hey, what's up people?
Speaker 2 (00:01):
This is Questlove and an honor of Black History Month,
when Fridays we'll be releasing episodes of Historical Records my
podcast with the story Pirates. It's an explosive fusion of
hip hop and history, tailor made for music loving kids
and families. That's right, you heard right, something the entire
family can sit back, listen to, and enjoy together. So
(00:24):
in this episode, host Nemony learns how street guiture fashion
came to be with a brand new hip hop track
about fashion pioneer Willie Smith, featuring an interview between fashion
designer Humberto Leon and an eight year old fashion lover
from New York named Olivia. Get your kids, Sit back
(00:44):
and enjoy Historical Records, the show that proves that in
order to make history, you have to make some noise.
Speaker 3 (00:54):
Hi listeners, Neminy here in the ballroom of the Secret Bunker,
reporting to you live Fashion's biggest night of the year.
In just a moment, Tina and the other raccoons are
gonna try on all my clothes and hit the runway.
We're expecting a lot of different looks out of my
closet tonight, and we're hopeful that will find at least
one outfit that I am still willing to wear. I've
(01:18):
just received word from Tina that the show is starting. Oh,
and here comes the first model down the runway. It's
Tina standing on top of four other raccoons, so they're
the same height as me. And look at this. They're
wearing my favorite simple black dress. Now, this dress is
very special to me. I got it during my junior
(01:40):
year of college. I wear it to eighty percent of
the nice events I have to attend, and it's honestly
starting to get a little scratching in the shoulders. It
is pretty, but it's also pretty tired and should probably
be cut up and repurposed into kitchen rags. Sorry, Tina,
that one is not happening. But don't worry, listeners. We've
got two more, hopefully passable options to see, and here
(02:04):
they come again. Wow. This next piece coming down the
runway is a real stutter, also being worn by five
raccoons standing on top of each other. This one is
a floral pant suit, and it looks like the raccoons
are having some fun up there.
Speaker 1 (02:20):
We love to see.
Speaker 3 (02:21):
It, but does this dress still work for me? I'm
not so sure it does, Tina. This is an outfit
that I wore once for my cousin's wedding and then
never wore again. Did it look good at the time, Absolutely?
Can I bring myself to wear it again? Absolutely not.
(02:43):
No one said fashion was easy. Side note. Is there
anything more adorable than the sound of a crowd of
raccoons being bummed out? I think not now. This last
outfit coming down the runway once again, being worn by
five raccoons standing on top of one another, is a
vampire tape. Vampire tape and a vampire wig. It's my
(03:04):
Halloween costume from last year. I was a vampire. Stop
the music, Tina, None of these options work. I have
a confession to make Scientists. International magazine is doing a
big feature on scientists who live in top secret underground bunkers,
(03:25):
and they're sending a photographer here today to howurd top
secret underground bunker to take a picture of me. I agree.
The reason I ask you and the other raccoons to
do this fashion show is because I have absolutely nothing
glamorous to wear.
Speaker 4 (03:46):
Its historical records.
Speaker 5 (03:49):
You are now listening to historical.
Speaker 3 (03:54):
To make history, you got to have struggles. To make history,
you got to show poys cannot be quiet loud that
so rye. To make history, you gotta make some noise.
Welcome back to Historical Records, where we conduct highly experimental
experiments combining history and hip hop. Today's episode is about
(04:16):
the pioneering fashion designer Willie Smith. But we'll get to
Willy in a minute. Right now, I'm in the middle
of my own fashion disasser. I agree the vampire costume
is funny, but I need to impress my fellow scientists,
not make them laugh. My boring black dress, my floral
(04:36):
pants suit, my vampire Halloween costume. None of these outfits
feel like they're really gonna wow anyone. I want to
wow people. What do you mean you have just the thing? Dana?
Where are you calling? Oh? Okay, the spotlight on the
runway is back. Uh. Our next model is about to
(04:58):
come down the runway, where what she assures me is
the greatest outfit of all time. Yes, there she is
Tina the Raccoon, and it appears that she is wearing
a dress made entirely of garbage. Okay, no raccoons, Thanks
(05:20):
for your help, but I can't wear a dress made
of trash for my big photo shoot. This is Scientist's
international magazine we're talking about. It's like the biggest publication
amongst scientists who are international and who also read magazines.
Thanks Tina, I knew you'd understand. Let's look in my
(05:40):
closet one more time in case I missed something. Hello,
cute and fancy clothes, where are you? Hmm Nope, No
fancy impressive clothes in here, Just a bunch of useless junk.
Wait a minute, how have I never noticed this hit
door before? Just as I suspected, this door leads to
(06:05):
a gigantic closet. Closet clu Oh no, this is a library.
That tiny door just led to the library. Wait a second,
Maybe one of the historians can help me find something
to wear, Gabe, lay anyone in here. I need a
historian who also has the fashion seens, if possible. What
(06:27):
was that? And where is all this smoke coming from?
Speaker 1 (06:32):
Oh high, niminy, Gabe? What was that huge kaboom sound?
Sorry about that.
Speaker 6 (06:37):
I've just been testing out the latest design for my
history simulator. Want to give it a try? Well I
kind of need Come on, it'll just take a second. Here,
put on this helmet.
Speaker 3 (06:46):
M okay, I guess this helmet is kind of cute.
Speaker 6 (06:50):
Now climb up here and slide down this tube a
new love a slide, and get ready to get blasted
off in this gigantic old timey cannon like the kind
they have at the Sir, I guess I thought.
Speaker 3 (07:01):
You said this was a history simulator.
Speaker 1 (07:03):
It is.
Speaker 6 (07:04):
It just so happens to be shaped like a gigantic
old timey cannon, like.
Speaker 1 (07:08):
The kind they have at the Circus.
Speaker 6 (07:10):
But instead of launching this space, it launches you through time.
Speaker 3 (07:13):
Gabe. You and I both know I love traveling through history,
but I don't know that I want to be launched
through history.
Speaker 1 (07:21):
Don't worry about it. I'll do it with you.
Speaker 5 (07:25):
Mmm.
Speaker 7 (07:25):
Got it.
Speaker 6 (07:26):
Let's sit in here, an astute observation and an improvement
I'll make in version two point zero.
Speaker 3 (07:31):
Wait, this is only the first draft of your time cannon.
Speaker 6 (07:34):
I prefer history simulator shape like a gigantic Old timey cannon,
like the kind they have.
Speaker 1 (07:40):
At the Circus. But yes, this is the first draft.
Now let's simulate history.
Speaker 3 (07:47):
This is safe, right, Gabe.
Speaker 6 (07:49):
Honestly I'm still working out the kinks.
Speaker 3 (07:51):
Wait what see, what's.
Speaker 1 (07:58):
Look beneath us.
Speaker 6 (07:59):
That's all of human history, and it's flying right by us.
Speaker 3 (08:02):
Kind of feels like we're flying right by next.
Speaker 1 (08:06):
Now you're getting it.
Speaker 6 (08:07):
Remember to tuck and roll when you lando tucking roll
when you boo, I was saying, never mind you, Okay, Gabe,
can I.
Speaker 3 (08:15):
Give you some constructive feedback on your history? Simulator shape
like a gigantic old timey cannon, like the kind they
have at the circus.
Speaker 1 (08:21):
It's a long name. I know, I'm working on it.
Speaker 3 (08:24):
That's not what I was gonna say. Look over there,
is that a fashion show?
Speaker 1 (08:29):
Let's take a look.
Speaker 3 (08:30):
Oh wait a minute, where are we This doesn't look
like a normal fashion show.
Speaker 6 (08:35):
You're right, it's the early nineteen eighties and we're at
the Alvin Ailey American Dance Theater in New York City.
Speaker 3 (08:41):
A dance studio.
Speaker 5 (08:43):
Yep.
Speaker 6 (08:43):
Alvin Ailey was a famous choreographer who fused ballet, jazz, theater,
and modern dance with narratives about black life.
Speaker 3 (08:50):
Well, Alvin Ailey sounds cool, But if we're doing a
fashion show in a dance studio, the designer probably isn't
that good.
Speaker 6 (08:58):
Are you sure about that? Take a closer look at
the crowd.
Speaker 3 (09:01):
Wait a minute, is that Spike Lee, the famous film director?
M h and keep herring. Oh, he's one of my
favorite artists.
Speaker 6 (09:10):
And sitting right next to him is Andrew Whitten aka Zephyr,
a legend in the graffiti world.
Speaker 3 (09:16):
Is everyone in this audience somewhat interesting?
Speaker 1 (09:18):
Yep?
Speaker 6 (09:19):
Each of them is a luminary in their field, most
from the New York fashion scene.
Speaker 3 (09:24):
So whose fashion show is this?
Speaker 1 (09:25):
The lights are going down, let's watch and find out together.
Speaker 3 (09:28):
Oh my goodness, these models are all so beautiful and unique.
Some of them are tall, some of them are shorts,
some are bigger, some are smaller. I see different shades
of skin men and women. Is this what every fashion
show was like in the nineteen eighties?
Speaker 6 (09:46):
Not at all for the nineteen eighties. This is incredibly diverse.
Speaker 3 (09:50):
And these clothes, shapes and colors and fabrics. I love
everything I'm seeing. I have to know who the designer is.
Speaker 1 (09:59):
Well, here he comes.
Speaker 3 (10:00):
Now.
Speaker 6 (10:00):
His name is Willie Smith and we're at a show
for his popular fashion brand, Willie Ware.
Speaker 3 (10:05):
So that's Willie Smith. He's such a talented designer. Uh okay, Gabe,
do you hear that sizzling sound like someone lit a
long wick and it's slowly burning its way towards something gigantic.
Speaker 1 (10:19):
I do.
Speaker 6 (10:20):
That means it's time to head back into the Ji
sor can hissulator. Huh uh, the gigantic circus canon history simulator.
Speaker 1 (10:29):
I'm workshopping the name. Remember that when you wear?
Speaker 3 (10:39):
Where are we now? And what's that delicious smell?
Speaker 6 (10:43):
I believe you're smelling fresh doses because we're in.
Speaker 1 (10:46):
Mumbai, India.
Speaker 3 (10:48):
What are we doing here?
Speaker 6 (10:49):
This is one of the places where Willy Smith got
his inspiration while traveling the world in search of the
right fabrics for his clothing. Willie didn't look to Paris
or Milan, but that's where all the.
Speaker 3 (11:00):
Fashion designers find the fabrics with all the fun colors
and patterns.
Speaker 1 (11:04):
Right, not exactly.
Speaker 6 (11:06):
Willy was looking for colors and patterns, sure, but he
was also looking for durable fabrics that could give his
clothes a flowing feel in looser shapes.
Speaker 3 (11:15):
Wooh, look at the price tag on this fabric. It's lavish,
but it's also affordable. That's exactly what brought Willy to India.
Speaker 6 (11:23):
He wanted fabrics that weren't just pretty look at, but
that you could actually live and work in, and it
helped him make sure that everyone could afford his pieces.
Speaker 3 (11:33):
So he didn't want to look in all the same
place as all the other designers were looking exactly smart.
Oh man, that dosa looks tasty. Maybe I'll just snag
a bite.
Speaker 6 (11:44):
No time, there's more history to simulate to the historical
circus blaster three thousand.
Speaker 3 (11:51):
Em that's not it either. Hey, can we go slower
this time? Sorry?
Speaker 6 (11:56):
Gigantic old timey cannon like the kind they have at
the circus, only has one speed.
Speaker 3 (12:01):
Here we go, Man, I keep landing wrong, and now
I'm hungry. I really wanted that Noza niminy.
Speaker 1 (12:17):
It was a simulated dosa.
Speaker 3 (12:19):
Well it made me simulated hungry. Where are we now?
Speaker 1 (12:23):
We're in Harlem, New York City.
Speaker 6 (12:25):
There's the Abyssinian Baptist Church, and there's the Apollo Theater,
and over there is one hundred and twenty fifth Street,
lined with vendors selling everything from T shirts to community
newspapers to incense.
Speaker 3 (12:37):
And let me guess that's stylish. Young man over there
with the loose fitting dressed clothes, looking at all the
people and sketching in his notebook is a young Willie
Smith Bingo.
Speaker 6 (12:49):
Before he started Willywere Willy Smith would walk the streets
of New York, strolling past black churches on Sundays, taking
inspiration from the women wearing their Sunday best. While other
fashion designers were trying to dress celebrities and the ultra rich,
Willie was inspired by the style of everyday working class people.
Speaker 3 (13:08):
Hey, look at that park. Those breakdancers have some pretty
funky moves.
Speaker 6 (13:14):
This is the kind of park where Willie would watch
office workers in their old, stuffy business suits walking past
those breakdancers in their hip streetwear, and wonder, how can
I bring these two worlds together.
Speaker 3 (13:26):
So streetwear hasn't always been a part of high.
Speaker 6 (13:29):
Fashion, Willie was one of the first fashion designers to
bring influence from the streets, the clubs, and black culture
in general into high fashion. Without him, a lot of
today's streetwear brands probably wouldn't be what they are.
Speaker 3 (13:42):
So before Willie Smith's high fashion was only for the rich,
and his work helped make fashion more accessible for everybody.
Speaker 5 (13:50):
Yes.
Speaker 6 (13:51):
In fact, one of his most famous quotes is, I
don't design clothes for the queen, but for the people
who wave at her as she goes by that.
Speaker 3 (14:01):
But so far we're just talking about businessmen and bee boys.
Did Willy Smith design any clothing for women?
Speaker 6 (14:08):
Actually, Willie Smith wasn't interested in designing solely for men
or for women. His brand Williware was one of the
first major fashion brands to design both and even include
plenty of gender neutral designs.
Speaker 3 (14:22):
Sounds like Willie Smith was really ahead of his time.
Is this the neighborhood where he grew up?
Speaker 1 (14:28):
Not at all, He grew up in Philadelphia. Want to see?
Speaker 3 (14:31):
Oh no, not more time blasting.
Speaker 1 (14:33):
Time blasting. That's pretty good. Let's keep spitballing off that.
Look I can do a backflip.
Speaker 6 (14:40):
Who we're flying?
Speaker 3 (14:43):
Oh, we're in a house. Maybe I can find some
cool clothes in one of these closets.
Speaker 6 (14:48):
Wait, wait, wait, first, look around this bedroom we're in.
Speaker 3 (14:52):
Hmm, there are a lot of drawings on the walls,
like a lot of drawings. Is this WILLI myths room?
Speaker 6 (15:00):
Yes, it's his childhood bedroom in Philadelphia in the early
nineteen sixties.
Speaker 3 (15:05):
Look at this notebook. These drawings have so much imagination
in them. Oh, look at all these people wearing elegant costumes.
Speaker 6 (15:15):
Even from a young age. Willie loved to draw in
design clothes. His mother even told him that she knew
he was born to be an artist or a designer.
Speaker 3 (15:24):
Is Willy here right now?
Speaker 1 (15:25):
He's not home.
Speaker 6 (15:26):
His mom and grandma have taken him to the Philadelphia
Museum of Art, something they did frequently.
Speaker 3 (15:31):
Oh, I love that museum.
Speaker 1 (15:33):
So did Willy's family.
Speaker 6 (15:35):
They encouraged his love of drawing clothing and took.
Speaker 1 (15:38):
Him to the museum to sketch.
Speaker 6 (15:40):
They didn't have a lot of money, but they did
have style, and after his parents divorced, Willy's grandma encouraged
him to continue pursuing his dreams of working in fashion design.
Speaker 3 (15:50):
Sounds like his upbringing was a really big influence on him.
Speaker 6 (15:54):
Indeed, Willie's friend, former neighbor and fashion editor Kim Hastrider
once said what would make Willy proud was not when
a movie star wore his clothes.
Speaker 1 (16:04):
He would burst with pride.
Speaker 6 (16:06):
When he'd see black kids on the street running around
in his stuff, or those black ladies at the bank
wearing it to work.
Speaker 3 (16:13):
How sweet? Okay, now about those closets.
Speaker 6 (16:17):
Nimity, they're simulated closets full of simulated clothes.
Speaker 3 (16:20):
Well, I can still try them on can't. I.
Speaker 6 (16:22):
But there's so much more to see to the super big,
super old circuits reminiscent history simulating blasting machine.
Speaker 3 (16:30):
That's an even worse and longer name than before. Wait,
why are we in a comic book shop?
Speaker 6 (16:38):
Well, I wanted to talk about Willy Smith's legacy. Sadly,
as his company was making record profits, Willy's success in
the fashion world was cut short when he passed away
in nineteen eighty seven at the age of thirty nine,
due to complications from AIDS.
Speaker 3 (16:53):
That's so young.
Speaker 6 (16:55):
Unfortunately, Yes, the AIDS epidemic of the nineteen eighties took
away man any of our best artists and leaders, especially
those in the LGBTQ community, But Willy's influence can still
be felt everywhere. His designs were worn by famous dancers
in Spike Lee movies like School Days, and even in
the pages of this comic book Spider Man Yep. In
(17:18):
the issue where Peter Parker and Mary Jane finally get married,
Mary Jane's wedding grace was designed by none other than
Willie Smith. Now follow me outside this bronze plaque right
here on the seventh Avenue Fashion Walk of Fame in
New York City commemorates Willie Smith and his contribution to fashion.
(17:39):
In nineteen eighty eight, one year after his death, New
York City's first black Mayor, David Dinkins proclaimed February twenty
third as Willie Smith Day in New York City.
Speaker 3 (17:49):
February twenty third.
Speaker 6 (17:52):
That's today, Well it is here in the simulation. Oh boy,
speaking of look at the time space. We really should
be heading back home. Un Hey, nice landing.
Speaker 3 (18:06):
Thanks. I've had lots of practice with the gigantic old
timey cannon, like the kind they have at the circus.
Speaker 1 (18:13):
I believe you mean the time cannon.
Speaker 3 (18:15):
That's the official name you're going with.
Speaker 1 (18:17):
Yep.
Speaker 3 (18:18):
Isn't that what I called it the very first time
I got in?
Speaker 1 (18:21):
Yep?
Speaker 3 (18:22):
And didn't you tell me you prefer gigantic old timey cannon,
like the kind they have at the circus.
Speaker 1 (18:26):
I've grown and I've changed fair anyway. That was fun.
Speaker 3 (18:31):
Yeah, I had a blast, literally, But also I learned
how to look at fashion in a totally different way.
Maybe I was thinking about my photo shoot all wrong.
I wonder what Willie would suggest I wear something practical
and yet somehow still cool.
Speaker 1 (18:46):
Don't you have a song to record.
Speaker 3 (18:48):
Oh you're right, I nearly forgot to the recording studio.
Bye Gabe. Wow, All right, listeners, check out this brand
new song all about Willie Smith.
Speaker 8 (19:05):
When people even nain't Willie Smith, I want them to
think that this is a person who cares enough about
them that he's taking the time to design and create
and think for them, like all Lellens of America.
Speaker 7 (19:24):
I could tell you what sale how I was supposed
to fail, but then I ended up sailing with all
the boats and whales. Before I was selling clothes, I
had hope for sale, and even at a discount. It
was so for real. Grew up in Hilladelkh had a
little help, Nope, a lot of help. My mother and
my father told me to go for self. Got it
to yourself, do your best, get it gone and you
can get coins. But true freedom is the wealth. Willie,
(19:46):
that's my name came into game. We'll get into all
of that, but for now I'm saying I'm conveying my
joy struggle. My joy not different from so many other
black boys. And I knew there was a world that
was almost had a reason. But I had to learn
lessons that nobody could see tablets full of design and fabric.
Speaker 9 (20:02):
Because it's your fashion.
Speaker 7 (20:03):
It is one thing. The style is another, my choice.
I'm afreedom to love imagine.
Speaker 1 (20:23):
Brand new, but it's still classic.
Speaker 7 (20:25):
Yes, I made clothes. Yes, I love to sew. I
possessed the fashion that I ain't even know. I knew
I had to grow. And you know I love Philly,
but New York City, Yeah, I knew I had to go.
My best decision him lines crafted with so much precision.
Speaker 1 (20:39):
You could see the fishing.
Speaker 9 (20:41):
A few people.
Speaker 7 (20:41):
Mentioned that it wasn't up to snuff, but eventually everybody
was loving my stuff. My mind went to another place
to create something live. The colors more vibrant, my own
little island where I could spend time on the shore,
getting close to the source.
Speaker 1 (20:54):
And I'm smiling.
Speaker 7 (20:55):
Now got a new clothing line. Yeah, it's finally out, Willie.
Speaker 10 (20:58):
Where hit it in?
Speaker 7 (20:59):
Get it there everywhere?
Speaker 5 (21:01):
I swear.
Speaker 7 (21:01):
I think back to the famous line, clothes don't make
the man unless you wear. In mind my joy, the
scene is overdone. It's supposed to be fun, but how
(21:24):
they want to say? So, let's go on and give
them so. I walked the line from the Harle of
Renaissance to de boys are richer now for the culture.
No decoys, street bustle and loud.
Speaker 1 (21:33):
Crowns, sweet noise.
Speaker 7 (21:34):
These are the things I mean when I speak joy
in twenty five mail offt designs.
Speaker 1 (21:38):
I chose so you can chill or if you.
Speaker 9 (21:40):
Want to profile and pose.
Speaker 7 (21:41):
And I don't make clothes for the queen. I'm making
for the people on the street who wave at the limousine.
I did it for us, those kids on the front,
stupid beautiful ladies who need a cute new suits. You
don't have to be safe to have taste. Make it oversize,
plus neon, green and ad lace whatever. I lived my
life with no regrets. Being true to my self meant
more than my success. I never claimed to be the
(22:03):
greatest of the best. I just wanted you to be
well dressed, and it's my pleasure.
Speaker 9 (22:07):
Joy stretch your arms out as far as you can,
your hands right there.
Speaker 1 (22:26):
Where you stand.
Speaker 3 (22:49):
We'll be right back after a few words. For the
grown ups. What a song the intercom buzzing, Well, I
guess that means the photographers here don't worry, Tina. I
figured it all out for my big photo shoot to
(23:09):
be featured in Scientists International magazine. I've decided that I'm
just going to wear my normal, everyday lab coat. Yep.
High fashion doesn't always mean the most expensive or exclusive thing.
Fashion is about expression, and my lab coat is the
truest expression of me. It's comfy, it's functional, and a
(23:29):
nice uniform reminds me of what I do and why
I love it. Of course, I want to impress my colleagues,
and I think this lab coat might do the trick.
And I don't need to spend a bunch of money
on something over the top to do that. No, you go, girl,
to answer the door. I need you to answer the
(23:51):
door and tell them I'll be just a minute. I
have an interview. Thanks Tina. All right, yeah, this helmet
hair probably isn't it for a photoshoot or an interview
for that matter. Today we're joined by fashion designer Umberto
Leon and an amazing kid named Olivia. Can you too
(24:13):
introduce yourselves?
Speaker 4 (24:15):
Hi?
Speaker 10 (24:15):
I'm Olivia, I'm eight years old and I live in
New York.
Speaker 4 (24:18):
I'm Umberto Leon and I'm co founder of Opening Ceremony
and was the former creative director of Kenzo and I
live in California.
Speaker 10 (24:28):
Umberto. Did you know I'm half Chinese too?
Speaker 4 (24:30):
You know what, I have daughters that are nine years
old and they look a little bit like you. So
I was going to ask you if you are half Chinese?
Speaker 5 (24:38):
Do you speak it?
Speaker 3 (24:39):
I know a bit.
Speaker 5 (24:41):
Yeah. What dialect does your family speak?
Speaker 10 (24:43):
I think we speak Cantonese.
Speaker 5 (24:45):
Whoa, that's what I speak actually.
Speaker 3 (24:47):
So, Olivia, what's your first question for Umberto?
Speaker 10 (24:50):
Why'd you become a fashion designer?
Speaker 5 (24:52):
That's a great question.
Speaker 4 (24:53):
When I was younger, I didn't know that being a
fashion designer was a job, you know. I I just
went to the mall and I saw clothing. I didn't
really think anything about that. And so I got my
first job working at a store. Have you ever heard
of the store called the Gap?
Speaker 3 (25:11):
Yeah.
Speaker 4 (25:11):
I started selling clothes and then my manager said, you
look like you would really like dressing the mannequins. So
then I started dressing the mannequins, and then I started
to do other stores mannequins and windows, and through that
experience it led me to eventually becoming a fashion designer.
Speaker 10 (25:32):
Did you ever make clothes for your own parents?
Speaker 4 (25:35):
So, growing up, my mom had three kids and the
only job she could take was to sew clothing for
a factory at home so that she could watch the kids.
And so she actually made clothes for me growing up
because I would see all these clothing in magazines and
I really loved it, but I couldn't afford it at
the time. So my mom decided to make all this
(25:56):
clothing for me. And so as I got to be
an adult, I wanted to repay that by doing things
for her. So I started to design clothing for her,
which was really really fun.
Speaker 5 (26:07):
Wow, that's so cool.
Speaker 3 (26:09):
How did you become interested in fashion? Olivia?
Speaker 10 (26:12):
And my family's related to fashion a lot too, because
my great grandmother she was a seamstress, and my grandmother
she makes me dresses, and my mom used to work
for Vera Wang before I was born.
Speaker 4 (26:25):
Did your mom save a lot of her clothing that
she got from your grandmother or that she made.
Speaker 5 (26:32):
Did she save a lot of it for you?
Speaker 10 (26:34):
Yeah? And my mom told me a long time ago
that Vera Wang made Mommy her wedding dress and she's
going to pass it on to me for my wedding.
Speaker 5 (26:42):
That is so so special.
Speaker 4 (26:45):
And Vera Wang is such a special designer because she's
one of the first Asian women to really make it
in the fashion.
Speaker 3 (26:54):
World, Olivia, do you have any questions for Umberto about
Willie Smith?
Speaker 10 (26:58):
So when you were younger, did Willie Smith any influence
on your work?
Speaker 4 (27:02):
You know, I grew up loving Willie Smith's work so much.
Willy was really inspired by what people wore on the streets,
and you know, at the time, I think a lot
of people were looking towards what they called high fashion,
and high fashion was interesting and it was cool, but
it was exclusive.
Speaker 5 (27:18):
Do you know what that word exclusive means?
Speaker 4 (27:20):
I don't think so not really, okay, So exclusive means
like it's only for a really small group of people
who could afford it or who could find it. So
Willie went out to create fashion and clothing for everybody.
One of the things that is super super big that
he did is he created clothing that was genderless. And
(27:41):
I think that type of thinking when he was doing
this in the seventies and eighties was really really big
because at this time people were making clothes specifically like
girls had to wear this and boys had to wear this.
So he was really breaking the boundaries in terms of
what clothing means. I mean, I'll should a t shirt
(28:01):
be for boys or for girls?
Speaker 10 (28:03):
Like, what do you think I think they should be
for both?
Speaker 4 (28:05):
I totally agree with you. Why can't boys wear dresses?
Or why is pinka color for girls? I think that
a lot of the world has kind of put things
into buckets that don't need to exist. Everybody should be
able to wear anything they want to wear, and I
think that was Willy's idea. Willie Smith really changed what
(28:26):
fashion is and how people could participate in fashion.
Speaker 3 (28:30):
Olivia, is there anything else you'd like to ask Comberto
before we say goodbye?
Speaker 10 (28:34):
What's your favorite part of being a fashion designer.
Speaker 4 (28:37):
One of my favorite things that I get to do
is I get to create something from nothing.
Speaker 5 (28:43):
I also love clothing from all around the world.
Speaker 4 (28:46):
I feel like there's so many amazing kind of clothing
that you see people wear for function.
Speaker 5 (28:51):
So I love to think about function.
Speaker 4 (28:53):
You know, where are you going to put your pockets,
what are you going to be carrying when you're wearing
those pants, or what are you going to be carrying
when you going on that hike. So it's almost like
a puzzle piece where you're designing, what you're thinking about
all these things that you want to make sure it does.
Speaker 10 (29:07):
I think fashion takes like a lot of work. Like
for me, I sit down and fashion clocks and two
minutes later, my hands are covered in glue and I'm
sweating and there's fabric all over the place. And if
I ever made clothes, what style of advice did you
have for me other kids my age?
Speaker 4 (29:23):
It's okay when you're designing to think a little bit
more wild and crazy, like don't hold back. And I
think that's the best advice.
Speaker 5 (29:31):
I could give to you.
Speaker 10 (29:32):
Well, you and your career sounds so awesome, and thank
you for talking with me.
Speaker 5 (29:37):
Thank you.
Speaker 4 (29:38):
I honestly loved all these questions you asked. You seem
like you're so well informed, and I hope to one
day meet you and maybe help you with your fashion ideas.
Speaker 5 (29:48):
It sounds like you have a lot.
Speaker 4 (29:49):
Yeah, I love that, and I think that anything that
you could take away from this conversation that inspires you means.
Speaker 5 (29:56):
A lot to me.
Speaker 10 (29:57):
Thank you, Emberte, goodbye.
Speaker 5 (29:59):
Thank you so much, see you later.
Speaker 3 (30:04):
What a great interview. I can't wait to see the
designs that Olivia comes up with someday, and I already
love Humberto Leone's designs, so I really loved getting to
hear more about where he gets his inspiration. Thanks Tina,
Tell the photographer, I'll be there in a minute. Let
me just put on my trusty lab coat and say
(30:27):
thank you to the listeners for learning all about Willie
Smith with me today and the nextra special thank you
to today's guests Humberto and Olivia. Remember our parents and teachers.
You can download a free activity related to today's episode
by visiting story pirates dot com slash Historical Records. We'll
(30:48):
be back next week with another historical record. Now, if
you'll excuse me, I've got a photoshoot to do. Oh
and one last thing. Remember to make history, you've got
to make some noise.
Speaker 11 (31:01):
Find Historical Records is produced in partnership with story Pirate Studios,
Questlove's two one five Entertainment, John Glickman and iHeart Podcasts
Executive produced by Emir Questlove Thompson, John Glickman, Lee Overtree,
(31:23):
and Benjamin Salga. Executive produced for iHeart Podcasts by Noel Brown.
Producers for story Pirate Studios are Isabella Ricchio, Sam Bear,
Eric Gerson, Andrew Miller, Lee Overtree, Peter McNerney Denisa Whartonby
and niminy Ware. Producers for two one five are Sewn G,
Britney Benjamin and Sarah Zolman. Hosted by niminy Ware. Our
(31:46):
head writer is Duke Doyle. Our historians are Gabe Pacheco
and Lee Polus. Music supervision for two one five by
Stroe Elliott. Scoring and music supervision for Story Pirate Studios
by Eric Gerson. Sound signed and mixing by Sam Bear
at the Relic Room in New York City. Song mastering
by Josh Hahn. Theme song by Dan Foster and Eric Gerson,
(32:08):
and produced by Eric Gerson. Production coordination by Isabelle Riccio.
Production management by Maggie Lee. The line producer for Story
Pirate Studios is Glennis Brault. Pr for Story Pirate Studios
is provided by Naomi Shaw. Episode artwork by Camilla Franklin.
This episode was written by Mike Cavalon. The song Willie
(32:28):
Smith was written and produced by Micah James. Special guests
Umbert to Leone and kid interviewer Olivia.
Speaker 1 (32:35):
This episode features.
Speaker 11 (32:36):
Performances by Micah James, Peter McNerney, Lee Overtree, and Gabe Pacheco.
Special thanks to J T. Sue and Dan foster
Hosts And Creators
Laiya St. Clair
Questlove
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