Episode Transcript
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S1 (00:01):
From the newsrooms of the Sydney Morning Herald and The Age.
This is the morning edition. I'm Chris Payne, filling in
for Samantha Salinger Morris. It's Tuesday, June 17th. Some of
Victoria's top restaurants and most celebrated chefs have come under
fire as allegations about bullying and harassment mount from former employees.
(00:26):
Similar such allegations have seen heads roll at hospitality giants
like swill House in Sydney. And now allegations about a
popular Melbourne restaurateur from those who have worked with him closely,
and alleged incidents of indecent exposure and aggressive behaviour. Today,
(00:47):
investigative reporter Charlotte Grieve on how the spotlight in the
hospitality industry has turned on those in positions of power,
and why employees at high profile venues across the country
are speaking up now. Charlotte, it's not often you witness
a tablecloth being ripped from under dishes at a restaurant,
(01:09):
but that's exactly what customers witnessed at a popular dining
spot in Melbourne that you've just written about. Tell me
what happened.
S2 (01:16):
That's right. It's quite extraordinary for something like that to
be caught on camera. Essentially, what happened here? There were
three friends. They went out for dinner. They ordered starters, wine,
other pastas and dishes. And when it came to the
prawn pasta, they said it was simply inedible. It was
too spicy.
S3 (01:35):
They had, like, the chilliest food tonight. And it was
so spicy that I'm like, my mouth is burning.
S2 (01:42):
They told the waitress. The waitress agreed to replace the dish.
There'd been no conversation around payment. They were happy to
pay for it. They just they just couldn't eat it
and they want something else. But when the waitress took
the dish back to the kitchen, the head chef, Pietro Barbagallo,
became enraged. He smashed the plate against the wall. He
(02:04):
came out into the restaurant and started verbally abusing the customers.
He saw one of the customers was taking a recording
on his phone. He was sending a message, a video
message to his boyfriend talking about his lips being burnt
from the pastor. It was that spicy. And at that,
Pietro really lost it.
S3 (02:23):
Why are you going in there? This is what you're doing.
I'm sending you what you're doing in my room. Why
are you yelling at my house? It's my house. Oh
my God. This is what you're doing? This is so abusive.
Oh my God. Seriously?
S2 (02:35):
He started screaming profanities at the customers. He pulled their tablecloth,
causing the plates and glasses to all smash into one another.
S3 (02:44):
No, you need to leave. You need to leave. Don't
grab my phone. You get out! Get out! You get out!
You get out now! Oh my God!
S4 (02:54):
Oh my God! Get out! Get out of it!
S2 (02:57):
There were screams. There was one waitress who was crying,
and he essentially kicked the customers out of the restaurant.
Other eyewitnesses outside the restaurant said they saw a chair
being propelled towards the customers from outside the restaurant. So
it was a really dramatic scene, a really scary thing
for those customers and everyone else in the restaurant that night.
S1 (03:21):
The footage is really quite shocking, but there are allegations
that this is not the first outburst by Barbagallo. According
to those who've worked quite closely with the chef for years,
what can you tell me about some of these allegations?
S2 (03:34):
That's right. So I spoke with 19 current and former
staff members of Pietro's at various restaurants all around Melbourne
dating back to the early 2000 and as recently as
this year. And what these people were telling me in
a quite comprehensive way was this was allegedly not an
(03:56):
isolated incident. So he had frequent outbursts at customers, but
also at staff members, where he'd be smashing plates, smashing glasses,
asking customers to get into fights with him really being
quite abusive to the point of violent and threatening towards
customers and staff.
S1 (04:17):
I want to come to a specific and former employee
in a second. But first, can you tell me a
little bit more about Barbagallo? Climb to the top because
his restaurant Caprica is pretty popular, right?
S2 (04:28):
That's right. So he really burst onto the scene of
Melbourne's hospitality scene in the early 2000. He was credited
by The Age, actually in 2005, as starting Melbourne's Pizza Revolution.
He opened a small, sort of no frills Italian restaurant,
Ikarus in Brunswick, that was immensely popular. It used simple ingredients,
(04:51):
fresh food and it really developed a cult following where
people were travelling from all over the city to eat
at this simple Italian restaurant. Over the years, he sort
of expanded. He had a restaurant in Saint Kilda. Another
in the city. And then over the last ten years
he has been in Carlton. So he had Caprica, which
(05:12):
has moved into the current venue that it's in on
Grattan Street. And it's always been popular again with locals.
But over the last sort of 18 months, it's really
gone bananas. He enlisted a filmmaker to make social media videos,
and his posts have gone viral on TikTok, on Instagram.
S5 (05:34):
I said, I've never seen him. Or he starts with
a cheeky Americano, then orders himself a plethora of starters.
I want a plethora of starters. Antipasto plate, buffalo mozzarella.
The pastor even gets his god damn delicious God damn olives.
All right, all right. Maybe I have seen him try them. What?
S2 (05:45):
They've been seen by hundreds of thousands of people. And
it's really driven this new wave of customers to his businesses.
It's sort of a really buzzy restaurant. It's very trendy.
It's very popular with people from, again, all around the city.
S1 (05:59):
Now, you spoke to one former employee who went on
the record with you. Her name is name's Carly Lauder,
and she recounted a particularly disturbing experience. What did she
tell you?
S2 (06:09):
Yeah. So Carly was really frustrated that Pietro and Caprica
kept being put on a pedestal by food media and
lionized as this leader of the industry when she knew
from working closely with him from the early 2000 that
he was anything but that. In her experience, he was
(06:29):
extremely volatile, extremely aggressive, extremely violent towards her and customers
on a on a regular basis. She described two particular
instances which were quite shocking and different in nature. The
first was, um, an allegation of violent behavior towards her.
S6 (06:51):
Carly Lauder worked under Mr. Barbagallo for years. She alleges
constant abuse, including one incident when she burnt pizza.
S7 (06:58):
He chastised me for it, shouted at me for it. Um.
and then he threw the pizza shovel at the back
of my head. Hit me in the neck.
S6 (07:07):
There are also.
S2 (07:09):
The second incident was involving herself. She was early 20s
at that time, and she was at his house. She
says he offered her cocaine and champagne. Then he disappeared
for a period and came back to her and he
was completely naked. She said he was shaking his genitals
(07:29):
in her face and it was an allegation of indecent exposure.
It was a really shocking experience for her. And she
said that ultimately was the the worst example of his
alleged pattern of behaviour of inappropriate and sexualised conduct towards herself,
but also other staff members. So those were two quite
(07:49):
specific incidences that we corroborated through speaking with people, she
told at the time. And it also fit into a
pattern of behaviour that continues to this day of him
making sexually inappropriate comments to his staff members allegations he
overshared his own sexual experiences with people made his young,
(08:10):
predominantly young female wait staff feel very uncomfortable on many occasions.
S1 (08:18):
We'll be right back. So Barbagallo hasn't responded to your
requests for comment, has he?
S2 (08:32):
He hasn't. So I did have a brief conversation with
him about three weeks ago now on the phone. And
I said, look, you know, we've been investigating your conduct
and there are allegations of patterns of behaviour dating back
a long time. We've spoken to a lot of your customers,
your customers and your staff members, but we really want
to give you the opportunity to engage here. We really
(08:54):
want to hear your side of the story. We want
to hear what you have to say. So he said, look,
put it in an email. I drafted a very detailed
email with all the allegations, all the details and many
long questions. He essentially just went to ground. He didn't
respond to any of the emails, any of my follow
up calls, texts or requests for comment. And then myself
(09:20):
and a nine cameraman went to his restaurant last week.
We spent two days at the front of the restaurant,
trying to get in touch with him to see if
he would like to respond, just to give him that
ultimate last chance to engage with us. And eventually, when
he did open the front door to the restaurant, he
(09:41):
didn't want to engage. I introduced myself, said, you know, Pietro,
we want to give you the opportunity here. And he
slammed the door in my face and turned the locks.
So it's quite clear that he just wants to bury
his head in the sand with this particular one.
S1 (09:56):
So no reactions from him. But I take it you've
had quite a lot of reaction from people in the
public and more broadly within the hospitality industry. Can you
tell me a bit about some of that?
S2 (10:06):
Yeah. That's right. So since we published on Friday and
over the weekend, we've had a significant amount of people
come forward with new stories, new allegations of their experiences
with Pietro, all mirroring the same kind of patterns and
themes that we've spoken about aggressive behavior, sexually inappropriate behaviour,
(10:28):
allegations of outbursts at customers, those types of things. And
I've been going through the process of of speaking to
people and seeing if they want to speak out about it,
corroborating their claims, etcetera, etcetera. But one of the more
surprising reactions that I've noticed with this story is that
from the hospitality industry. So there's been a lot of
(10:50):
commentary online of of people seeming to take Pietro's side
in this saying, you know, hospitality is a really tough business.
Customers can be very annoying, particularly influencers and the like
who use their cameras to sort of, quote, take down
our businesses. And I found that a really surprising response,
(11:12):
because there's no denying that running a restaurant is a
tough business, particularly in this cost of living climate. And
there are a lot of people doing the right thing.
But it seemed online in the Melbourne hospitality industry specifically,
there were a lot of people liking post defending Pietro
and standing up for him, which to me showed there
(11:35):
was this entrenched cultural problem that's not just within the fringes,
it's right at the core of the hospitality industry, when
if you can see a video of a man uncontrollably
losing himself to anger at customers in his restaurant, then
what else is permissible? So that was kind of the
(11:56):
most surprising reaction for me, just the amount of people
who would consider themselves the good guys of the industry,
you know, the inner north, independent wine bars who all
seem to be subtly in one way or another, sort
of swinging behind this guy.
S1 (12:11):
Now, our listeners and readers will probably know that this
is not the first time recently that we've reported on
the hospitality industry. Indeed, you have reported on people like
Guy Grossi in Sydney. There's venues like the Ivy and
the Baxter in have been in the headlines. So why now?
Why do you think we're having this moment? Why is
it that women are coming forward now?
S2 (12:34):
Well, I think that really people are feeling more emboldened
to speak out and say, you know, what was normal
in the past? I don't want to deal with anymore today.
And in the past as well, I think the media
has played a significant role in putting people on pedestals
in the hospitality industry. The celebrity chef culture has been
(12:56):
quite dangerous because it gives people a feeling of invincibility.
But as we've seen from this reporting and reporting in
Sydney Morning Herald as well. The tide is turning. People
are not putting up with behavior that was acceptable in
the past. Hospitality is an industry that people want to
grow careers in. They want to be professionals in. They
(13:19):
don't want to come to work. And a slap on
the ass is all of a sudden a normal part
of the job. Or, you know, someone smashing a plate
is a funny personality quirk. People rightly deserve to be
respected in the workplace wherever they work. And I think
particularly in Melbourne, where we take our hospitality culture so
(13:41):
seriously and we, you know, go out to restaurants and
wine bars is a big part of what makes Melbourne, Melbourne. Slowly,
it seems the tide is turning on, looking at the
experiences of people actually working in those industries. If we
don't have respect for the people serving you, the food,
the people working in the kitchens, the people washing the dishes,
then what? What are we respecting in this industry? And
(14:04):
while I was a bit disappointed by some of the
reactions in some sections of the hospitality industry in Melbourne.
I do think there are people leading the way and
people speaking out is a great thing to say that,
you know, this type of behaviour is no longer acceptable.
S1 (14:20):
I mean, do you get a sense from the people
that you talk to that that tide is turning, that
there's sort of hope on the horizon? Things will change
for the better.
S2 (14:28):
I honestly, I'm, I'm sort of in two minds about it.
I think the hospitality industry has a long way to
go with its cultural change program, because right now people
still think it is acceptable to behave the way that
Pietro did towards those customers that was caught on camera.
And until that is no longer acceptable, until people are
(14:51):
coming out and condemning that behaviour, we're going to have
that still happening. So while I'd like to say the
tide is changing, I do still think bad behaviour is
very prevalent and there is a long way to go.
S1 (15:04):
Charlotte, thank you for your reporting and thanks for making
time to talk to us today.
S2 (15:08):
Norris. Thanks, Chris.
S1 (15:15):
Today's episode of The Morning Edition was produced by Kea
Wong and Julia Carcasole, with technical assistance from Josh towers.
Our executive producer is Tammy Mills. Tom McKendrick is our
head of audio. To listen to our episodes as soon
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(15:35):
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(15:59):
Links are in the show. Notes. I'm Chris Payne. This
is Morning edition. Thanks for listening.