July 15, 2025 • 30 mins
This week we dig into the strategy of mid-to-late summersuccession planting—how to make the most of garden space left vacant by spring crop failures or early harvests. I share five heat-loving, fast-maturing crops you can direct sow now to squeeze in one last summer harvest before fall. Learn how to keep your beds productive, beat pest cycles, and maximize soil health, all without needing indoor seed starts.
What You’ll Learn:
- Why filling summer garden gaps matters
- Key traits of good late-summer crops
- My top five heat-loving, fast-growing picks
Let’s dig in!
Save 20% on your new own-root rose plant at Heirloom Roseswith code JUSTGROW https://heirloomroses.com
For full show notes visit https://justgrowsomethingpodcast.com/episodes/5-quick-crops-to-fill-summer-garden-gaps-ep-258
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Transcript
Episode Transcript
Available transcripts are automatically generated. Complete accuracy is not guaranteed.
(00:00):
I know sometimes it may seem like I have my entire gardening
season planned out from start tofinish with no room for any
spontaneity, but that's not exactly the case.
There are plenty of times when Ifind a vacancy in my garden,
whether it's due to something not germinating or insect pests
or diseases taking out a crop early, or just any other random
(00:20):
reason. So I often find myself tucking
new plants or seeds in here and there to fill the gaps.
But I do have a plan in place for my summer succession and
those two approaches kind of go hand in hand to keep my garden
beds full and the harvests coming.
So today on Just grow Something,we're talking about something
every gardener probably needs a second summer, that end of
(00:44):
season boost when spring crops have kind of faded and space has
opened up and you've got some really prime real estate ready
for planting. But maybe not enough time or
headspace for indoor seeds starting if you've got a patch
of some cleared soil from an earlier summer crop that has
been spent or are compromised orjust gone forever, don't let
(01:05):
that space go empty. We're going to dig into a few
crops that you can sow directly in the mid to late summer that
will grow fast and get you a solid harvest, even if you don't
feel like rigging up grow lightsor seed trays indoors.
We'll talk about what makes a good late summer succession crop
on my top picks with maturity dates and planting windows, and
(01:27):
then some strategies on how to sort of get this accomplished so
that you get another bonus harvest in the summertime before
we even move into fall. Let's dig in.
Hey, I'm Karen and what started as a small backyard garden 20
years ago turned into a lifelongpassion for growing food.
Now as a market farmer and horticulturist, I want to help
you do the same. On this podcast I am your friend
(01:50):
in the garden, teaching evidencebased techniques to help you
grow your favourites and build confidence in your own garden
space. So grab your garden journal and
a cup of coffee and get ready tojust grow something.
This episode might be short and sweet.
I am trying to get out of town to go do some family stuff and
(02:10):
I'm really trying to make an attempt at not bringing my
laptop with me or maybe not working.
I might bring the laptop, but I might not try to try not to work
the entire time I'm gone. So I'm trying to get this
knocked out before we go. So let's let's get into it.
First of all, why should we bother with trying to fill those
spaces? Why would we want to plant again
when, you know, the summer's heat is kind of still in full
(02:34):
force and we're not necessarily working on the fall garden yet?
I am a huge proponent of making sure that our gardens are sort
of full and that isn't really necessarily from like a harvest
strategy necessarily, although Imean, that's another really good
reason just to continue the harvest, right?
But more so because it benefits our plants.
(02:56):
I always seem to find that plants that are grown alongside
each other very closely tend to support each other and they tend
to do better than the ones that are sort of by themselves and
don't really have any companionsaround them.
A lot of this can go back to, you know, the different
(03:18):
companion planting episodes thatwe've had where we talk about,
you know, how different plants have different needs and how
they're using the nutrients at different times against each
other, but then also how they are helping to keep from the
insects from predating on themselves and on each other.
So maybe that has something to do with it.
But it always, always seems likethe more full those garden beds
(03:40):
are, the better all of the plants seem to be assuming that
we are not overcrowding them, right?
So this type of succession planting means that every inch
of the soil keeps feeding plants.
We're not letting it sit bare. So we're not wasting those
nutrients, but we're also not letting, you know, weeds move in
and we're not letting that soil just sort of sit there bare and
(04:02):
blow away, you know, in the windor whatever.
This also can kind of help with the pest cycles a little bit.
You know, our later crops tend to face fewer pests and fewer
disease pressures, especially once we get towards like the
really hot part of the summer. And this is just going to extend
your harvest, right? I mean, you can continue to pull
(04:24):
things out of your garden. And oftentimes those things,
even the summer crops that we have planted in the early
spring, by this stage of the game, they might just start
looking a little rough and theirproduction may have slowed down.
So now's a really good time to do another crop exactly like
that one. Just fill in a gap someplace
(04:46):
else within your garden or even pull that one if, if one just
doesn't seem like it's producingvery well or you're really
having a hard time keeping the diseases out of it or the pests
have really done a number and they just look sad sack.
I'm sorry. Pull them out, refresh the soil
a little bit and then go ahead and plant that same crop again.
The keyword here is fast. OK.
(05:08):
We are looking for things that you can plant in the heat of the
summer that will germinate readily in that heat and will
thrive in that heat, but also get to maturity within about 40
to 60 days. We're not really talking about a
fall harvest here, although someof these, if they remain
healthy, can absolutely continueto be harvested into the fall.
(05:29):
But we're not talking about a planned fall crop here.
We're not talking about things that really thrive in those
cooler shoulder seasons. We talked about that a little
bit last week. We're going to talk more about
that next week. Really we're talking about
summer crops or things that actually can stand the heat or
enjoy the heat. One of the two that we can
(05:51):
harvest fairly quickly. So not every crop is going to be
a candidate for this. So we want something that
matures in about 30 to 60 days. We want that fast harvest,
something that can handle the warm soil and the direct sun at
this time of the year, dependingon where you live.
And here we are, easily 90°F every single day right now,
(06:12):
which means oftentimes our heat indices are going up above that.
We do get some great breaks hereand there, and we've had a lot
of rain this season, which is kind of cooled things off a
little bit. But in most instances, I need to
find something that can really take that heat and also likes
that warm soil for germination purposes.
Remember, we're not talking about transplanting anything
here. We're talking about direct
(06:33):
sowing in the garden. We also want to make sure that
these are things that sort of have clear yield benefits, if
that makes sense. We want to make the space that
it's taking up in the garden worth it.
We want to make sure that we're getting an actual, you know,
harvest out of it, unless it's something that we want to plant
just for aesthetics, you know, and that's perfectly fine, too.
(06:56):
We want to make sure that it's something that fits well into
this sort of succession timing, especially if you do have plans
for a fall garden. It needs to be something that we
can get in, get harvested and get out OK before we have to
replace it with something else. And then we're looking for
things that really don't need a whole lot of infrastructure,
just something that we can throwin the ground and water it,
(07:18):
throw down some mulch and let itdo its thing.
You know, if you have infrastructure in place already
like a trellis or something thatyou can replace a crop with,
then that's fine, go ahead and use it.
But we want this to be very, very simple.
OK. So with these criteria, I have
chosen 5 sort of fast mid to late summer crops that you can
(07:40):
get a harvest out of before the end of the summer and that will
will take the heat. And I know I said, you know, we
really don't want any, any trellises or infrastructure that
we have to put into. So this first one might surprise
you. And I say cucumbers, OK, There
are a lot of cucumber varieties that will get to maturity in
less than 60 days, even sooner than that if you were growing
(08:02):
some small snacking varieties. And there are a lot of varieties
that don't necessarily need a trellis.
You can grow cucumbers across, you know, sprawling across a
flat space. I just transplanted some patio
type cucumbers, I can't rememberwhat they're called, but they
grow fairly quickly. They're more of a Bush variety
(08:24):
rather than, you know, a tall long vining one.
And they are just in a raised planter bed and they, I'm
expecting them to just sort of take over that bed and meander
and do their thing because they mature very quickly.
I'm not too worried about givingthem any infrastructure right
now. I could have just popped those
seeds into the ground and that would have been perfectly fine.
(08:45):
I only chose to transplant thesebecause I was starting some
other transplants at the same time.
So I said fine, let me just go ahead and do this all at once
and the timing just worked out. But by all means, cucumbers will
germinate in this nice warm soiltemperature, which means they're
going to germinate very quickly and they're going to start to
grow very quickly. So this is really great actually
(09:06):
for avoiding pests that might limit the harvest, specifically
cucumber beetles, right? So this is also a good option if
you had already grown cucumbers earlier in the season, or maybe
you already still are, but they have been attacked by cucumber
beetles or, you know, other pests that might plague them and
(09:27):
they're starting to look a little funky.
And sometimes cucumbers just stall out.
They just stop producing. You might get a ton of flowers
and maybe not a whole lot of fruit, or they may just do not
produce anything at all. So you can just RIP that out and
go ahead and fill that space with another cucumber crap.
Or you can just fill a space where something else you know,
(09:48):
has already been in been finished.
OK, another really good candidate for sowing in the mid
to late summer. So to be clear, we're talking
around now, so like mid-july through the end of July,
beginning of August. Oftentimes this is going to be
the same time that we're planting other things for fall,
(10:09):
but we're specifically talking about these kind of heat lovers
that are ready to harvest fairlyquickly.
And another one is Bush beans. Now I always sort of took a
break on our green beans in the hottest part of the summer
because here it does get super, super hot.
But what I have found is I can replant them starting around
(10:31):
mid-july and they will pop up pretty quickly.
And so long as I mulch them really, really well and keep
that root zone cool and make sure that they are well watered,
they'll do just fine and they will produce a crop within 60
days. Now I plant my beans or I should
say I harvest my beans kind of skinny and slender, right?
(10:51):
I don't like beanie beans, if that makes sense.
I don't like them when they get kind of bumpy, lumpy.
So I am harvesting my green beans very quickly and very
early and, and you know, very frequently.
So this might also be why they seem to do OK, because if you're
doing a mid-july planting, then generally you're going to start
(11:14):
seeing a harvest out of them by about mid-september.
It is still very warm here. So if your area is like mine,
you might wait until late July so that you're getting the
harvest around late September when it maybe starts to cool off
just a little bit. In any case, you want to go for
these kind of compact Bush type green beans.
(11:38):
Number one, they mature much more quickly and they just kind
of can fill in the space. The cool thing about Bush type
green beans, or any green bean for that matter, is they don't
need pollinators. So you don't need to have a
whole bunch of plants all together in order to get a crop
out of them. So if you have multiple spaces
(11:58):
throughout your garden where something else has already
vacated that space, you can pop a couple of Bush green bean
seeds in there and then you can do it over here.
And then you can do some more over there.
And you just have green beans all over the place and they have
filled in that gap. They don't need the pollinators.
And they're also helping to, youknow, sort of keep that soil in
(12:19):
place and keep it utilized. This is actually a really great
strategy. If you have some things that are
growing fairly tall right now and can provide those green
beans with just a little bit of shade, it might take them just a
little bit longer to get to maturity, but that's going to
shade them from that worst part of the heat.
And so again, if you're in an area like mine where it's kind
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of scorching right now and you're concerned about that,
then that is a really good strategy too.
Just plant them kind of underneath something else that's
growing very tall. These are also really good
plants to plant in the garden after you have harvested
something that was kind of a nitrogen hog because they're a
legume and so they're going to fix that nitrogen back into the
(13:00):
soil again and that is going to help you for whatever you decide
to plant after that, you've kindof repaired the soil just a
little bit. Every rose has a unique blooming
rhythm and knowing your roses bloom style helps you care for
it and bring out its best. I was looking at my rose plant
from Air Bloom Roses the other day, trying to remember whether
(13:21):
it was supposed to bloom all season or not.
Here's how to tell which type you have.
Continual bloomers will produce flowers steadily throughout the
season, with only short breaks in between.
Repeat bloomers bloom in cycles.So you'll get, you know, a burst
of color and then a rest and then a burst of color again.
And then you have those sort of one time bloomers that just
(13:42):
flower once a year, usually in the spring, and then they are
done. When your roses bloom more than
once, dead heading those spent flowers encourages new growth by
telling the plant to focus on making more blooms instead of
seeds. If you have plants that only
bloom once, then dead heading keeps the garden tidy and helps
(14:02):
to shape the plant even if it won't bloom again this season.
So identify your roses bloom type and regardless, start
deadheading those spent blooms. Which is exactly what I did.
I have out of the blue as my variety and it's supposed to be
a continuous bloomer. I had to go and look that up
because I couldn't remember. And no, I had not deadheaded
(14:24):
this year. So I did that immediately.
It's a very simple habit that I had neglected and it lets your
roses shine at their very best. SO lesson learned, get your own
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colors and scents by going to heirloomroses.com and choosing
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(14:48):
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They have so many options to choose from, your only struggle
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with code Just Grow to save 20%.The link is in the show notes.
So the third one that you can use as A Midsummer planting is
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okra. Okra loves the heat.
As a matter of fact, I generallydon't even start my okra at any
time until maybe the first week in June.
And I think this year I didn't even get around to planting it
until I think the third week in June.
It really does like those warmersoil temperatures.
(15:30):
So this makes it a really good option for planting in mid to
late July. It loves the heat and you have
some very fast maturing varieties that can mature in
just 45 days. I think Annie Oakley is the one
that's the fastest. But if you look at like Clemson
Spineless or Red Burgundy, thoseare both I think 55 day
(15:53):
varieties. So and this is one that you can
continue to harvest into the fall up until like your first
frost. It really, really does very,
very well in the heat though. And so if you keep it picked,
it's going to keep coming on foryou.
And if you don't love okra, but you like a little bit of okra,
then that's fine. You can make it a temporary
(16:15):
crop. You can have it just fill in the
space from mid-july until you know, mid-september.
Harvest off of it for a couple of weeks to get your fill and
then pull it for something else.Throw something else in there
for the fall. Replace it with, you know,
something that likes the cooler weather, some spinach or some
some radishes or something, right.
Even if you don't like okra at all, it gets nice and tall so it
(16:38):
can provide shade to some of theother plants in your garden that
might appreciate a little bit ofthat because it's a fairly quick
grower too. It gets tall fairly fast and
they put off beautiful flowers. So, and it's almost, it's almost
a foolproof crop so long as you just get it in the ground and
you can protect anything from eating the young seedlings once
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it starts to get tall and and grow.
There hasn't been a whole lot that I have seen plague our okra
that did so much damage that theokra wasn't able to grow.
Like I've seen the grasshoppers grow after them and I've seen
Japanese beetles go after it andall kinds of stuff.
And it's just a really resilientplant.
So you can just grow it for aesthetic purposes if you want
(17:22):
to. And then when you no longer have
a need for it, something else needs to go in there.
Just yank it out, OK? There's nothing that says if you
plant something and it is still productive.
If you're over it year over it and you can pull it out.
Don't feel like it's you've got to be stuck with something just
because it's still productive and it's taking up space in the
garden. No, toss it in the compost and
(17:42):
plant something that you're actually going to use.
OK, But if you have an open space and you have some crops
that might appreciate some shade, okra is a really good
option for you. The 4th 1 would be any of your
summer squashes, specifically the Bush varieties.
So zucchini and and yellow squash.
Maybe the 8 ball squashes, things that you know are a
(18:06):
little bit more compact. They don't need to go super,
super vinyl over the place. So definitely not a winter
squash because those need some more longer time to mature.
Summer squashes tend to be very quick growers.
They harvest usually in less than 45 days.
So even a a mid-july planting isgoing to definitely produce a
(18:26):
ton of fruit for you. If you are somewhere that sees a
lot in terms of the squash vine borer, this actually might be a
more successful time for you to plant anyway because at least in
my area, the life cycle of the squash vine borer generally ends
right around mid-july. So if you can pop those seeds in
(18:50):
the ground now, then at least you're likely avoiding the
majority of that pest. Now, if you have squash bugs and
you have had anything else in your garden during this time
that is in the squash family andthe squash bugs have shown up,
then it's very likely that they're going to move over into
these guys. So if that is an issue for you
and you have seen those in the garden, or if this is a
(19:13):
succession planting where you know that your first one or two
batches of summer squashes are going to succumb to the squash
bugs and this is your second or third try at this, I always
recommend putting the seeds in the ground and then immediately
covering with that insect netting and allowing those
(19:33):
plants to get up until the pointwhere they start to bloom.
And then you can go ahead and uncover them to get them
pollinated. Or if you really want to stay on
the bug patrol and keep them covered, then you can hand
pollinate. I did this at the beginning of
the season. I went through and I was hand
pollinating. I was sort of successful with
it, but I was hand pollinating at that point, 175 squash plants
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and I just, it got to be too much.
And so I just uncovered them alland said, OK, go for it.
But you know, if you only have ahandful of plants, you can
continue to, you know, do the hand pollinating.
But summer squash is a really fast grower.
Again, less than 45 days. Usually you are harvesting them.
This is one that is if as long as you don't have any insect
pressure or any disease issues, we'll continue to produce for
(20:19):
you all the way through into thefall.
But again. Don't think that you have to
leave it in there the whole time.
Sometimes people just get over it when it comes to like
zucchini. And you haven't had enough and
your neighbors have had enough and they don't want any more
zucchini, and your food freezer is full of zucchini.
Again, pull the plant out. OK.
(20:39):
These really do flourish in warmsoil.
So it's going to come up quickly.
It's going to grow quickly. You want to start harvesting
very early. Like as soon as you see those
little fruits come on, start harvesting them.
Harvest very frequently unless you really want baseball bat
sized zucchinis. But also because the more
frequently you harvest, that's going to keep the production
(21:01):
high. The plant think it needs, it
thinks it needs to continue to produce these fruits because it
needs to reproduce because you're pulling them off.
So that is a really good way to keep that production going.
And you can get a really high production level in a very short
period of time. And then you can choose whether
you want to leave it in the garden or let it continue going
until the 1st frost. And once the first frost cross
(21:22):
arrives, then you know, that's it.
They're over and done. And finally, one that might be
surprising to you is arugula. So arugula matures really,
really quickly. I mean, if you are harvesting it
like at baby leaf size, you're looking at only like 2025 days,
maybe 30 days, 40 days. If you want to get a little bit
(21:42):
larger, it really does like cooler nights, but it is fairly
heat tolerant if you can give itsome shade during like the peak
sun hours and and water it very,very frequently.
So the other good thing about arugula is that you can, you
know, plant it in successions because generally speaking
(22:03):
arugula bolts fairly quickly anyway.
I mean, I usually only get a couple of harvest out of my
arugula before it starts to sprout or it starts to go to
sea. And so I end up doing succession
plantings anyway of arugula. It also seems to me that it gets
a bit spicier the hotter it is outside.
So if you can plant this one where it gets some afternoon
(22:27):
shade, you're going to be betteroff.
And if you live somewhere where,yeah, it might be scorching hot
during the day but it gets nice and cool at night, you'll have
even better success. Our problem here is that our
nights in the summertime, like right now, we're lucky if we're
dipping below 70 Fahrenheit. It's and it's just sticky and
(22:47):
warm and just kind of gross out.And so, you know, in this
instance, I have to make sure that I'm really keeping the
arugula well watered because it will just sort of burn up if it
gets any remotely dry. So that is the one thing that I
would say is a caveat to this. So for some of you, you may want
to wait until a little bit lateron, but you know, in a lot of
(23:07):
areas this will be just fine. And you can harvest those leaves
as they're a little tiny or you can, you know, do a larger leaf
and then cut it once and then let it come up again once and
again. This is one that's a, you know,
a candidate for succession planting.
You can harvest or plant every couple of weeks.
So you can continue to harvest off of them.
And there are a couple of like heat tolerant varieties, Rocket
(23:28):
and Sandy are two of them and they are better for like a
really high heat conditions. Of course, before we do any of
this, we want to make sure that we are replenishing the soil in
between crops. OK.
So if you have some compost available to you after you have
pulled 1 crop out and you beforeyou plan to put the next one in,
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you might want to add about an inch of compost cover.
It likely just kind of judged itinto the soil.
This is going to boost your nutrients a little bit.
It's going to also kind of fluffthat bed up a little bit.
You know, if you rake it out even, you know, with with a hand
trowel or a handbrake cultivator, I guess is what it's
called. Or if you're doing in ground
(24:12):
beds, you know, grabbing your garden rake or whatever, this is
going to help to minimize that compaction and that's going to
help with the roots and stuff. And just keep in mind when you
are deciding because, you know, these five that we talked about
aren't the only options. There are lots of things that
you could, you know, plant in the summer garden, depending on
where you are, that are going todo just fine.
(24:35):
You just have to keep in mind how long the maturity date is
and if it's going to be something that you're going to
harvest in the summer or if it'sgoing to be more of a fall
harvest. And then you have to start
thinking about things like the Persephone period where our
daylight hours are getting below10 hours or you're starting to
get into the time when it's getting cooler and of course,
things aren't maturing nearly asquickly.
(24:56):
It's what we talked about last week.
Just think about that when you're trying to decide what it
is that you want to stuff into your different corners and fill
the different holes in the garden.
Right now, as always, I always recommend mulch.
OK, But it's even more importantwhen we are planting in the
heat. Not only are you going to
protect that soil from just kindof blowing away when you have
(25:20):
the breeze and the winds coming through, but you are also
retaining that moisture, which is super, super important in the
summertime, especially if you'resomeplace where it's very, very
dry. Like I mentioned, we have been
very lucky here this year. We have been getting rain
weekly, sometimes multiple timesa week.
And so, I mean, I we're not watering at all.
(25:42):
We have that whole irrigation system that we finally got to
set up after years and years andyears of not having any
irrigation in any of our fields.And we have not turned it on
once this year, which I am good with.
Like this has been, you know, absolutely wonderful.
It means the humidity has been alittle high, but other than
that, we're super happy about it.
(26:03):
And of course, we have heavy layers of mulch because we have
been used to not having any kindof irrigation.
So we, we definitely have alwaystrapped that moisture in the
soil anytime we get it. And that's something that I
always encourage you to do in the garden.
Make sure that you are covering that soil.
And I know, I guess I know I talk about it a lot, but I
(26:23):
really want you to take a look the next time you're out
anywhere, like in a wooded area or out in nature somewhere and
just look around you and realizethat Mother Nature doesn't leave
bare spots. And there's a really good reason
for that. You will very, very, you know,
very few times where you will see bare areas out in nature.
And usually that is due to some sort of soil disruption or some
(26:44):
natural disaster or something else going on there.
So use your mulch to help retainthat moisture.
It is also going to help to moderate that soil temperature.
A lot of the heat response that our plants have is because of
the root zone being too warm. Yes, the leaf temperature does
(27:05):
matter, but the more we can keepthat root zone cool, the more we
can mitigate that air temperature.
And so that is going to help keep these crops producing even
through that heat once they get started.
OK. So mulch, mulch, mulch, please
and thank you. And if you are one of my short
(27:29):
season growers, if you are in a cooler region, you have a little
bit less of a margin here. I know that you're sort of warm
season or your number of warm days is very, very limited.
So more than likely in this instance, you, you may not have
too much time left to be able todo a second sort of succession
(27:54):
of your summer crops. I, I, I tend to think that in
zones 3 and 4 you are very likely, you know, one and done
when it comes to your very, verywarm crops.
If you are attempting this, I would prioritize the fastest
maturing ones or just wait untilthe timing is right to start
adding those cool season crops back in again for a fall
(28:15):
harvest. If you can manage to plant like
back-to-back, you know, so sow some things back-to-back in in
mid-july and late July to doubleup your chances of being able to
get something, then that might be a really good idea for you.
But in a lot of instances, I think it's, it's very possible
that unless you catch it early enough, you've got a crop that
(28:36):
you see is failing and you can immediately pull it and throw
some seeds in for that second chance.
Your, your window of opportunityhere is probably closing pretty
quickly. So if you do decide that you're
going to have some gaps, I wouldabsolutely recommend doing that
now if you are in a short season.
Otherwise, you can just wait until next week and we will talk
all about the fall garden and we'll help you plan that
(28:57):
instead. Filling the gaps in our late
summer garden just kind of showsus that gardening isn't linear.
It is very dynamic. I know I talk a lot about, you
know, garden planning and, you know, looking at your calendar
and doing a timeline and all these types of things.
And yes, I mean that that is important.
(29:19):
I think if you are trying to maximize your space and you're
trying to get the most out of your garden and succession
planting is how we do that. We we make each season sort of
continue to produce or produce even more than the previous
season. But that doesn't mean we have to
be stuck in it, right? If if something goes wrong in
the garden and we have a gap, let's think about what we can
(29:43):
fill that gap with. And most instances in Midsummer
time, it's going to be somethingthat is fast maturing, that
likes to have that warm soil forgerminating and then can also
handle the heat and be able to be harvested before we start
moving into like the fall season, right?
(30:03):
So I hope this helps you turn open gaps and spaces in your
garden into sort of a late summer bounty.
Next week, we're really going toget into fall garden planning
and how to maximize the space that you have planting in the
late summer, harvesting in the fall, all fall along, even into
the winter. And some of those crops can
(30:26):
actually greet you again in the spring.
So you don't want to miss next week's episode.
Until next time, my gardening friends, keep on cultivating
that dream garden, and we'll talk again soon.
I know sometimes it may seem like I have my entire gardening
season planned out from start tofinish with no room for any
spontaneity, but that's not exactly the case.
There are plenty of times when Ifind a vacancy in my garden,
whether it's due to something not germinating or insect pests
or diseases taking out a crop early, or just any other random
(00:20):
reason. So I often find myself tucking
new plants or seeds in here and there to fill the gaps.
But I do have a plan in place for my summer succession and
those two approaches kind of go hand in hand to keep my garden
beds full and the harvests coming.
So today on Just grow Something,we're talking about something
every gardener probably needs a second summer, that end of
(00:44):
season boost when spring crops have kind of faded and space has
opened up and you've got some really prime real estate ready
for planting. But maybe not enough time or
headspace for indoor seeds starting if you've got a patch
of some cleared soil from an earlier summer crop that has
been spent or are compromised orjust gone forever, don't let
(01:05):
that space go empty. We're going to dig into a few
crops that you can sow directly in the mid to late summer that
will grow fast and get you a solid harvest, even if you don't
feel like rigging up grow lightsor seed trays indoors.
We'll talk about what makes a good late summer succession crop
on my top picks with maturity dates and planting windows, and
(01:27):
then some strategies on how to sort of get this accomplished so
that you get another bonus harvest in the summertime before
we even move into fall. Let's dig in.
Hey, I'm Karen and what started as a small backyard garden 20
years ago turned into a lifelongpassion for growing food.
Now as a market farmer and horticulturist, I want to help
you do the same. On this podcast I am your friend
(01:50):
in the garden, teaching evidencebased techniques to help you
grow your favourites and build confidence in your own garden
space. So grab your garden journal and
a cup of coffee and get ready tojust grow something.
This episode might be short and sweet.
I am trying to get out of town to go do some family stuff and
(02:10):
I'm really trying to make an attempt at not bringing my
laptop with me or maybe not working.
I might bring the laptop, but I might not try to try not to work
the entire time I'm gone. So I'm trying to get this
knocked out before we go. So let's let's get into it.
First of all, why should we bother with trying to fill those
spaces? Why would we want to plant again
when, you know, the summer's heat is kind of still in full
(02:34):
force and we're not necessarily working on the fall garden yet?
I am a huge proponent of making sure that our gardens are sort
of full and that isn't really necessarily from like a harvest
strategy necessarily, although Imean, that's another really good
reason just to continue the harvest, right?
But more so because it benefits our plants.
(02:56):
I always seem to find that plants that are grown alongside
each other very closely tend to support each other and they tend
to do better than the ones that are sort of by themselves and
don't really have any companionsaround them.
A lot of this can go back to, you know, the different
(03:18):
companion planting episodes thatwe've had where we talk about,
you know, how different plants have different needs and how
they're using the nutrients at different times against each
other, but then also how they are helping to keep from the
insects from predating on themselves and on each other.
So maybe that has something to do with it.
But it always, always seems likethe more full those garden beds
(03:40):
are, the better all of the plants seem to be assuming that
we are not overcrowding them, right?
So this type of succession planting means that every inch
of the soil keeps feeding plants.
We're not letting it sit bare. So we're not wasting those
nutrients, but we're also not letting, you know, weeds move in
and we're not letting that soil just sort of sit there bare and
(04:02):
blow away, you know, in the windor whatever.
This also can kind of help with the pest cycles a little bit.
You know, our later crops tend to face fewer pests and fewer
disease pressures, especially once we get towards like the
really hot part of the summer. And this is just going to extend
your harvest, right? I mean, you can continue to pull
(04:24):
things out of your garden. And oftentimes those things,
even the summer crops that we have planted in the early
spring, by this stage of the game, they might just start
looking a little rough and theirproduction may have slowed down.
So now's a really good time to do another crop exactly like
that one. Just fill in a gap someplace
(04:46):
else within your garden or even pull that one if, if one just
doesn't seem like it's producingvery well or you're really
having a hard time keeping the diseases out of it or the pests
have really done a number and they just look sad sack.
I'm sorry. Pull them out, refresh the soil
a little bit and then go ahead and plant that same crop again.
The keyword here is fast. OK.
(05:08):
We are looking for things that you can plant in the heat of the
summer that will germinate readily in that heat and will
thrive in that heat, but also get to maturity within about 40
to 60 days. We're not really talking about a
fall harvest here, although someof these, if they remain
healthy, can absolutely continueto be harvested into the fall.
(05:29):
But we're not talking about a planned fall crop here.
We're not talking about things that really thrive in those
cooler shoulder seasons. We talked about that a little
bit last week. We're going to talk more about
that next week. Really we're talking about
summer crops or things that actually can stand the heat or
enjoy the heat. One of the two that we can
(05:51):
harvest fairly quickly. So not every crop is going to be
a candidate for this. So we want something that
matures in about 30 to 60 days. We want that fast harvest,
something that can handle the warm soil and the direct sun at
this time of the year, dependingon where you live.
And here we are, easily 90°F every single day right now,
(06:12):
which means oftentimes our heat indices are going up above that.
We do get some great breaks hereand there, and we've had a lot
of rain this season, which is kind of cooled things off a
little bit. But in most instances, I need to
find something that can really take that heat and also likes
that warm soil for germination purposes.
Remember, we're not talking about transplanting anything
here. We're talking about direct
(06:33):
sowing in the garden. We also want to make sure that
these are things that sort of have clear yield benefits, if
that makes sense. We want to make the space that
it's taking up in the garden worth it.
We want to make sure that we're getting an actual, you know,
harvest out of it, unless it's something that we want to plant
just for aesthetics, you know, and that's perfectly fine, too.
(06:56):
We want to make sure that it's something that fits well into
this sort of succession timing, especially if you do have plans
for a fall garden. It needs to be something that we
can get in, get harvested and get out OK before we have to
replace it with something else. And then we're looking for
things that really don't need a whole lot of infrastructure,
just something that we can throwin the ground and water it,
(07:18):
throw down some mulch and let itdo its thing.
You know, if you have infrastructure in place already
like a trellis or something thatyou can replace a crop with,
then that's fine, go ahead and use it.
But we want this to be very, very simple.
OK. So with these criteria, I have
chosen 5 sort of fast mid to late summer crops that you can
(07:40):
get a harvest out of before the end of the summer and that will
will take the heat. And I know I said, you know, we
really don't want any, any trellises or infrastructure that
we have to put into. So this first one might surprise
you. And I say cucumbers, OK, There
are a lot of cucumber varieties that will get to maturity in
less than 60 days, even sooner than that if you were growing
(08:02):
some small snacking varieties. And there are a lot of varieties
that don't necessarily need a trellis.
You can grow cucumbers across, you know, sprawling across a
flat space. I just transplanted some patio
type cucumbers, I can't rememberwhat they're called, but they
grow fairly quickly. They're more of a Bush variety
(08:24):
rather than, you know, a tall long vining one.
And they are just in a raised planter bed and they, I'm
expecting them to just sort of take over that bed and meander
and do their thing because they mature very quickly.
I'm not too worried about givingthem any infrastructure right
now. I could have just popped those
seeds into the ground and that would have been perfectly fine.
(08:45):
I only chose to transplant thesebecause I was starting some
other transplants at the same time.
So I said fine, let me just go ahead and do this all at once
and the timing just worked out. But by all means, cucumbers will
germinate in this nice warm soiltemperature, which means they're
going to germinate very quickly and they're going to start to
grow very quickly. So this is really great actually
(09:06):
for avoiding pests that might limit the harvest, specifically
cucumber beetles, right? So this is also a good option if
you had already grown cucumbers earlier in the season, or maybe
you already still are, but they have been attacked by cucumber
beetles or, you know, other pests that might plague them and
(09:27):
they're starting to look a little funky.
And sometimes cucumbers just stall out.
They just stop producing. You might get a ton of flowers
and maybe not a whole lot of fruit, or they may just do not
produce anything at all. So you can just RIP that out and
go ahead and fill that space with another cucumber crap.
Or you can just fill a space where something else you know,
(09:48):
has already been in been finished.
OK, another really good candidate for sowing in the mid
to late summer. So to be clear, we're talking
around now, so like mid-july through the end of July,
beginning of August. Oftentimes this is going to be
the same time that we're planting other things for fall,
(10:09):
but we're specifically talking about these kind of heat lovers
that are ready to harvest fairlyquickly.
And another one is Bush beans. Now I always sort of took a
break on our green beans in the hottest part of the summer
because here it does get super, super hot.
But what I have found is I can replant them starting around
(10:31):
mid-july and they will pop up pretty quickly.
And so long as I mulch them really, really well and keep
that root zone cool and make sure that they are well watered,
they'll do just fine and they will produce a crop within 60
days. Now I plant my beans or I should
say I harvest my beans kind of skinny and slender, right?
(10:51):
I don't like beanie beans, if that makes sense.
I don't like them when they get kind of bumpy, lumpy.
So I am harvesting my green beans very quickly and very
early and, and you know, very frequently.
So this might also be why they seem to do OK, because if you're
doing a mid-july planting, then generally you're going to start
(11:14):
seeing a harvest out of them by about mid-september.
It is still very warm here. So if your area is like mine,
you might wait until late July so that you're getting the
harvest around late September when it maybe starts to cool off
just a little bit. In any case, you want to go for
these kind of compact Bush type green beans.
(11:38):
Number one, they mature much more quickly and they just kind
of can fill in the space. The cool thing about Bush type
green beans, or any green bean for that matter, is they don't
need pollinators. So you don't need to have a
whole bunch of plants all together in order to get a crop
out of them. So if you have multiple spaces
(11:58):
throughout your garden where something else has already
vacated that space, you can pop a couple of Bush green bean
seeds in there and then you can do it over here.
And then you can do some more over there.
And you just have green beans all over the place and they have
filled in that gap. They don't need the pollinators.
And they're also helping to, youknow, sort of keep that soil in
(12:19):
place and keep it utilized. This is actually a really great
strategy. If you have some things that are
growing fairly tall right now and can provide those green
beans with just a little bit of shade, it might take them just a
little bit longer to get to maturity, but that's going to
shade them from that worst part of the heat.
And so again, if you're in an area like mine where it's kind
(12:39):
of scorching right now and you're concerned about that,
then that is a really good strategy too.
Just plant them kind of underneath something else that's
growing very tall. These are also really good
plants to plant in the garden after you have harvested
something that was kind of a nitrogen hog because they're a
legume and so they're going to fix that nitrogen back into the
(13:00):
soil again and that is going to help you for whatever you decide
to plant after that, you've kindof repaired the soil just a
little bit. Every rose has a unique blooming
rhythm and knowing your roses bloom style helps you care for
it and bring out its best. I was looking at my rose plant
from Air Bloom Roses the other day, trying to remember whether
(13:21):
it was supposed to bloom all season or not.
Here's how to tell which type you have.
Continual bloomers will produce flowers steadily throughout the
season, with only short breaks in between.
Repeat bloomers bloom in cycles.So you'll get, you know, a burst
of color and then a rest and then a burst of color again.
And then you have those sort of one time bloomers that just
(13:42):
flower once a year, usually in the spring, and then they are
done. When your roses bloom more than
once, dead heading those spent flowers encourages new growth by
telling the plant to focus on making more blooms instead of
seeds. If you have plants that only
bloom once, then dead heading keeps the garden tidy and helps
(14:02):
to shape the plant even if it won't bloom again this season.
So identify your roses bloom type and regardless, start
deadheading those spent blooms. Which is exactly what I did.
I have out of the blue as my variety and it's supposed to be
a continuous bloomer. I had to go and look that up
because I couldn't remember. And no, I had not deadheaded
(14:24):
this year. So I did that immediately.
It's a very simple habit that I had neglected and it lets your
roses shine at their very best. SO lesson learned, get your own
beautiful roses in a mix of blooming types, plant shapes,
colors and scents by going to heirloomroses.com and choosing
from over 700 varieties. You can save 20% on your
(14:48):
purchase by using code Just Growat checkout.
They have so many options to choose from, your only struggle
will be narrowing down your favorites. heirloomroses.com
with code Just Grow to save 20%.The link is in the show notes.
So the third one that you can use as A Midsummer planting is
(15:09):
okra. Okra loves the heat.
As a matter of fact, I generallydon't even start my okra at any
time until maybe the first week in June.
And I think this year I didn't even get around to planting it
until I think the third week in June.
It really does like those warmersoil temperatures.
(15:30):
So this makes it a really good option for planting in mid to
late July. It loves the heat and you have
some very fast maturing varieties that can mature in
just 45 days. I think Annie Oakley is the one
that's the fastest. But if you look at like Clemson
Spineless or Red Burgundy, thoseare both I think 55 day
(15:53):
varieties. So and this is one that you can
continue to harvest into the fall up until like your first
frost. It really, really does very,
very well in the heat though. And so if you keep it picked,
it's going to keep coming on foryou.
And if you don't love okra, but you like a little bit of okra,
then that's fine. You can make it a temporary
(16:15):
crop. You can have it just fill in the
space from mid-july until you know, mid-september.
Harvest off of it for a couple of weeks to get your fill and
then pull it for something else.Throw something else in there
for the fall. Replace it with, you know,
something that likes the cooler weather, some spinach or some
some radishes or something, right.
Even if you don't like okra at all, it gets nice and tall so it
(16:38):
can provide shade to some of theother plants in your garden that
might appreciate a little bit ofthat because it's a fairly quick
grower too. It gets tall fairly fast and
they put off beautiful flowers. So, and it's almost, it's almost
a foolproof crop so long as you just get it in the ground and
you can protect anything from eating the young seedlings once
(16:59):
it starts to get tall and and grow.
There hasn't been a whole lot that I have seen plague our okra
that did so much damage that theokra wasn't able to grow.
Like I've seen the grasshoppers grow after them and I've seen
Japanese beetles go after it andall kinds of stuff.
And it's just a really resilientplant.
So you can just grow it for aesthetic purposes if you want
(17:22):
to. And then when you no longer have
a need for it, something else needs to go in there.
Just yank it out, OK? There's nothing that says if you
plant something and it is still productive.
If you're over it year over it and you can pull it out.
Don't feel like it's you've got to be stuck with something just
because it's still productive and it's taking up space in the
garden. No, toss it in the compost and
(17:42):
plant something that you're actually going to use.
OK, But if you have an open space and you have some crops
that might appreciate some shade, okra is a really good
option for you. The 4th 1 would be any of your
summer squashes, specifically the Bush varieties.
So zucchini and and yellow squash.
Maybe the 8 ball squashes, things that you know are a
(18:06):
little bit more compact. They don't need to go super,
super vinyl over the place. So definitely not a winter
squash because those need some more longer time to mature.
Summer squashes tend to be very quick growers.
They harvest usually in less than 45 days.
So even a a mid-july planting isgoing to definitely produce a
(18:26):
ton of fruit for you. If you are somewhere that sees a
lot in terms of the squash vine borer, this actually might be a
more successful time for you to plant anyway because at least in
my area, the life cycle of the squash vine borer generally ends
right around mid-july. So if you can pop those seeds in
(18:50):
the ground now, then at least you're likely avoiding the
majority of that pest. Now, if you have squash bugs and
you have had anything else in your garden during this time
that is in the squash family andthe squash bugs have shown up,
then it's very likely that they're going to move over into
these guys. So if that is an issue for you
and you have seen those in the garden, or if this is a
(19:13):
succession planting where you know that your first one or two
batches of summer squashes are going to succumb to the squash
bugs and this is your second or third try at this, I always
recommend putting the seeds in the ground and then immediately
covering with that insect netting and allowing those
(19:33):
plants to get up until the pointwhere they start to bloom.
And then you can go ahead and uncover them to get them
pollinated. Or if you really want to stay on
the bug patrol and keep them covered, then you can hand
pollinate. I did this at the beginning of
the season. I went through and I was hand
pollinating. I was sort of successful with
it, but I was hand pollinating at that point, 175 squash plants
(19:56):
and I just, it got to be too much.
And so I just uncovered them alland said, OK, go for it.
But you know, if you only have ahandful of plants, you can
continue to, you know, do the hand pollinating.
But summer squash is a really fast grower.
Again, less than 45 days. Usually you are harvesting them.
This is one that is if as long as you don't have any insect
pressure or any disease issues, we'll continue to produce for
(20:19):
you all the way through into thefall.
But again. Don't think that you have to
leave it in there the whole time.
Sometimes people just get over it when it comes to like
zucchini. And you haven't had enough and
your neighbors have had enough and they don't want any more
zucchini, and your food freezer is full of zucchini.
Again, pull the plant out. OK.
(20:39):
These really do flourish in warmsoil.
So it's going to come up quickly.
It's going to grow quickly. You want to start harvesting
very early. Like as soon as you see those
little fruits come on, start harvesting them.
Harvest very frequently unless you really want baseball bat
sized zucchinis. But also because the more
frequently you harvest, that's going to keep the production
(21:01):
high. The plant think it needs, it
thinks it needs to continue to produce these fruits because it
needs to reproduce because you're pulling them off.
So that is a really good way to keep that production going.
And you can get a really high production level in a very short
period of time. And then you can choose whether
you want to leave it in the garden or let it continue going
until the 1st frost. And once the first frost cross
(21:22):
arrives, then you know, that's it.
They're over and done. And finally, one that might be
surprising to you is arugula. So arugula matures really,
really quickly. I mean, if you are harvesting it
like at baby leaf size, you're looking at only like 2025 days,
maybe 30 days, 40 days. If you want to get a little bit
(21:42):
larger, it really does like cooler nights, but it is fairly
heat tolerant if you can give itsome shade during like the peak
sun hours and and water it very,very frequently.
So the other good thing about arugula is that you can, you
know, plant it in successions because generally speaking
(22:03):
arugula bolts fairly quickly anyway.
I mean, I usually only get a couple of harvest out of my
arugula before it starts to sprout or it starts to go to
sea. And so I end up doing succession
plantings anyway of arugula. It also seems to me that it gets
a bit spicier the hotter it is outside.
So if you can plant this one where it gets some afternoon
(22:27):
shade, you're going to be betteroff.
And if you live somewhere where,yeah, it might be scorching hot
during the day but it gets nice and cool at night, you'll have
even better success. Our problem here is that our
nights in the summertime, like right now, we're lucky if we're
dipping below 70 Fahrenheit. It's and it's just sticky and
(22:47):
warm and just kind of gross out.And so, you know, in this
instance, I have to make sure that I'm really keeping the
arugula well watered because it will just sort of burn up if it
gets any remotely dry. So that is the one thing that I
would say is a caveat to this. So for some of you, you may want
to wait until a little bit lateron, but you know, in a lot of
(23:07):
areas this will be just fine. And you can harvest those leaves
as they're a little tiny or you can, you know, do a larger leaf
and then cut it once and then let it come up again once and
again. This is one that's a, you know,
a candidate for succession planting.
You can harvest or plant every couple of weeks.
So you can continue to harvest off of them.
And there are a couple of like heat tolerant varieties, Rocket
(23:28):
and Sandy are two of them and they are better for like a
really high heat conditions. Of course, before we do any of
this, we want to make sure that we are replenishing the soil in
between crops. OK.
So if you have some compost available to you after you have
pulled 1 crop out and you beforeyou plan to put the next one in,
(23:50):
you might want to add about an inch of compost cover.
It likely just kind of judged itinto the soil.
This is going to boost your nutrients a little bit.
It's going to also kind of fluffthat bed up a little bit.
You know, if you rake it out even, you know, with with a hand
trowel or a handbrake cultivator, I guess is what it's
called. Or if you're doing in ground
(24:12):
beds, you know, grabbing your garden rake or whatever, this is
going to help to minimize that compaction and that's going to
help with the roots and stuff. And just keep in mind when you
are deciding because, you know, these five that we talked about
aren't the only options. There are lots of things that
you could, you know, plant in the summer garden, depending on
where you are, that are going todo just fine.
(24:35):
You just have to keep in mind how long the maturity date is
and if it's going to be something that you're going to
harvest in the summer or if it'sgoing to be more of a fall
harvest. And then you have to start
thinking about things like the Persephone period where our
daylight hours are getting below10 hours or you're starting to
get into the time when it's getting cooler and of course,
things aren't maturing nearly asquickly.
(24:56):
It's what we talked about last week.
Just think about that when you're trying to decide what it
is that you want to stuff into your different corners and fill
the different holes in the garden.
Right now, as always, I always recommend mulch.
OK, But it's even more importantwhen we are planting in the
heat. Not only are you going to
protect that soil from just kindof blowing away when you have
(25:20):
the breeze and the winds coming through, but you are also
retaining that moisture, which is super, super important in the
summertime, especially if you'resomeplace where it's very, very
dry. Like I mentioned, we have been
very lucky here this year. We have been getting rain
weekly, sometimes multiple timesa week.
And so, I mean, I we're not watering at all.
(25:42):
We have that whole irrigation system that we finally got to
set up after years and years andyears of not having any
irrigation in any of our fields.And we have not turned it on
once this year, which I am good with.
Like this has been, you know, absolutely wonderful.
It means the humidity has been alittle high, but other than
that, we're super happy about it.
(26:03):
And of course, we have heavy layers of mulch because we have
been used to not having any kindof irrigation.
So we, we definitely have alwaystrapped that moisture in the
soil anytime we get it. And that's something that I
always encourage you to do in the garden.
Make sure that you are covering that soil.
And I know, I guess I know I talk about it a lot, but I
(26:23):
really want you to take a look the next time you're out
anywhere, like in a wooded area or out in nature somewhere and
just look around you and realizethat Mother Nature doesn't leave
bare spots. And there's a really good reason
for that. You will very, very, you know,
very few times where you will see bare areas out in nature.
And usually that is due to some sort of soil disruption or some
(26:44):
natural disaster or something else going on there.
So use your mulch to help retainthat moisture.
It is also going to help to moderate that soil temperature.
A lot of the heat response that our plants have is because of
the root zone being too warm. Yes, the leaf temperature does
(27:05):
matter, but the more we can keepthat root zone cool, the more we
can mitigate that air temperature.
And so that is going to help keep these crops producing even
through that heat once they get started.
OK. So mulch, mulch, mulch, please
and thank you. And if you are one of my short
(27:29):
season growers, if you are in a cooler region, you have a little
bit less of a margin here. I know that you're sort of warm
season or your number of warm days is very, very limited.
So more than likely in this instance, you, you may not have
too much time left to be able todo a second sort of succession
(27:54):
of your summer crops. I, I, I tend to think that in
zones 3 and 4 you are very likely, you know, one and done
when it comes to your very, verywarm crops.
If you are attempting this, I would prioritize the fastest
maturing ones or just wait untilthe timing is right to start
adding those cool season crops back in again for a fall
(28:15):
harvest. If you can manage to plant like
back-to-back, you know, so sow some things back-to-back in in
mid-july and late July to doubleup your chances of being able to
get something, then that might be a really good idea for you.
But in a lot of instances, I think it's, it's very possible
that unless you catch it early enough, you've got a crop that
(28:36):
you see is failing and you can immediately pull it and throw
some seeds in for that second chance.
Your, your window of opportunityhere is probably closing pretty
quickly. So if you do decide that you're
going to have some gaps, I wouldabsolutely recommend doing that
now if you are in a short season.
Otherwise, you can just wait until next week and we will talk
all about the fall garden and we'll help you plan that
(28:57):
instead. Filling the gaps in our late
summer garden just kind of showsus that gardening isn't linear.
It is very dynamic. I know I talk a lot about, you
know, garden planning and, you know, looking at your calendar
and doing a timeline and all these types of things.
And yes, I mean that that is important.
(29:19):
I think if you are trying to maximize your space and you're
trying to get the most out of your garden and succession
planting is how we do that. We we make each season sort of
continue to produce or produce even more than the previous
season. But that doesn't mean we have to
be stuck in it, right? If if something goes wrong in
the garden and we have a gap, let's think about what we can
(29:43):
fill that gap with. And most instances in Midsummer
time, it's going to be somethingthat is fast maturing, that
likes to have that warm soil forgerminating and then can also
handle the heat and be able to be harvested before we start
moving into like the fall season, right?
(30:03):
So I hope this helps you turn open gaps and spaces in your
garden into sort of a late summer bounty.
Next week, we're really going toget into fall garden planning
and how to maximize the space that you have planting in the
late summer, harvesting in the fall, all fall along, even into
the winter. And some of those crops can
(30:26):
actually greet you again in the spring.
So you don't want to miss next week's episode.
Until next time, my gardening friends, keep on cultivating
that dream garden, and we'll talk again soon.
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